Thank you very much for making this really unpretentious video about an interesting topic. So much of what you see these days on TH-cam is over-sensationalized clickbait. Many other channels have also focused so much on just one narrow field of interest, that they appear as one-trick ponies. Since I've been running a youtube channel myself for the past six years, I know how hard it can be to attract an audience reliably, when you actually cover a wide range of topics, especially if you're doing it with a serious attitude, intended to not simply entertain, but also educate. I'm happy to have found this channel and it's a good sign that it is successful. Best regards from Germany
@@TechIngredients Thanks for the reply. Hope you're all save over there. At the moment I'm probably not the only one watching, who'd also like to literally live in the woods. Take care!
To close the other side you can simply 1) Pour in the epoxy (onto the side that's already epoxy'd) 2) Close the top with the foam and hot glue 3) turn it upside down 4) Wait 5) Profit
@@TechIngredients I think it might be time to start some collaborations within the youtube community. You have the ability to work with many. Stuff Made Here has made a lot of headway in a short amount of time sticking with pure engineering principles. I understand that you have your standout instructional methodology, but seeing engineers working together is part of the magic. Find something extreme to test your ability? Just a thought :) Cheers from Texas.
@@ATX_Engineer you nailed what is likely the main appeal of Tech Ingredients - Standout instructional methodology. And of course, clear and precise descriptions of the principles involved.
I am not a boat person and I have less than zero interest in making a boat rudder. So I kept ignoring this video when it kept popping up in my recommended list. But finally I gave in and clicked. It was so totally worth it, even though I still have zero interest in boats or boatbuilding. Just listening to this dude talk about engineering and fabrication techniques I feel like I learned more than months of studying.
I have never seen a more professional person in my life! Looking forward to the fantastic fish tank video. I think it will be super useful for many since not only we learn 'how to', but also why.
To fill the bottom piece of the rudder you could glue a PVC foam block with a machined notch to that bottom, turn it facing a flat surface, like a desk, with an inch over the edge of the flat surface. Then you, use the syringe to puncture a small hole on the foam and also fill the interior of the chamber (with the syringe pointing upwards). When you remove the syringe, use the fiberglass tape to hold it closed so the epoxy doesn't drains through the hole. After the epoxy cures, you can remove the PVC foam block and cut/sand the small channel that was originally the hole from the syringe in the PVC foam block.
@@TechIngredients instead of drilling and tapping in the top, you would puncture in the bottom with the syringe, as the bottom PVC foam block will be needed either way. Not so much additional work, maybe even less, without the need to later glue a screw on top.
14:46 another trick for those who don't have a vacuum chamber, is using a heat gun to bring most bubbles out after applying the epoxy, in this case a small heat gun from a soldering station would give more control.
Gotta be careful with that hot glue though.. The mass market stuff, attached to something smooth like PVC, is not going to stand up to much heat & retain the seal against resin. I suppose, in terms of boat building, bubbles are sort of a bonus feature rather than a bug anyway.
Oh and on the upcoming aquarium project. As a former fish hobbyist, I can tell you that you do not need a transparent back wall. Most aquarium owners paste a background picture in the back of the tank, or simply paint the back glass with a black spray can. The fish actually prefer this, they like to have some privacy and being open on all sides makes them more nervous about predators. The thin acrylic walls that curve inwards seems great from an engineering and structural standpoint, but from practicalities of fishkeeping it would sacrifice a lot of internal volume. So maybe the back wall can be a flat non-transparent material like aluminum, and just have three sides made of thin curving acrylic?
@@ZoonCrypticon haha ok the "privacy" was just my human interpretation, but the behavior is real. Many species of fish absolutely do need rocks and plants and other things to hide behind where they can feel safe from predators. If you put them in a wide open tank with nowhere to hide, they will get overly stressed and you can totally see the bad effect it has on their health. Blocking off at least one glass wall of the aquarium is highly recommended for these type of fish. Thanks, that's my dog in my profile pic! I don't have fish anymore since I got a dog.... dogs are just better pets.
@@SithLord2066 That's interesting about the need for safety and the effect of long term anxiety. I immediately think that if you make a super cool tank, they'll all just go hide somewhere. I imagine many of these might be reef fish which use the reef very much for cover, or they are fish that would hang by the shore close to cover. I'm with 7 dogs right now, the Chihuahua is the smallest and loudest which is when I wish he was a fish.
This is definitely among the best channels on TH-cam. I really enjoy the science and engineering explanations you go into. They're very clear, and simply excellent. Thank you for going to all the hard work to share all your knowledge and expertise with the world!
I was an aquarium enthusiast and worked at several large pets stores. The main problem with acrylic tanks is scratches. Cleaning an acrylic tank, no matter how many precautions you take, inevitably become cloudy, covered with micro scratches. The second problem I see with any tank in general, is sealing any two sides at near right angles to one another. With acrylic, a weld is only as good as the welded bond, and in most cases, acrylic welds are not deep enough to be considered a true weld, but more like a "cementing" of the two parts. Bonding with epoxies is not going to stand up to how the water will dry out the epoxy and weaken the bond over several years. The best made tanks I have seen are fully encased fiberglass (using several of the advanced technics you have showcased in other videos using 150 poly foam) incorporating plate glass fronts engulfed fully into a notched recess, giving full contact for the seal of the glass on both side of the seam, and then fully sealed interior with marine grade resin. These tanks last for 50 years or more before any maintenance might be needed for the glass seal. I applaud your concept of a curvy tank, but I am really skeptical about the bonds for each of the parts. I have complete faith that your material will hold the volume of water, but not any faith in the seams of said structure, but I look forward to watching it! What I have seen in most acrylic manufacturers is a heated sheet formed into a near perfect "U" shape, then they need only seal three lines: right side left side and bottom, to minimize the area of failure.
@@robertschulke1596 Maybe so- my experience is such that the epoxy bond fails when its on acrylic after a time. Maybe that is just because of the type of epoxy I was using, or prep, or , or, or... could be any number of reasons, idk.
I wonder if applying protective coats to the acrylic could prevent micro scratches? I wondered about how strong that bond would be, maybe it's the shape that minimizes outward forces? I'm sure much of the reason for the "U" shape is aesthetic as well as cheaper manufacturing. You could probably make some cool shapes with acrylic. However wonderful ones creation might be I'd doubt the fish would appreciate it, stupid fish.
@@seandelaney1700 Most compounds that do that, (waxes, other acrylics, epoxies, oils) have a cure time which would undermine the cost effectiveness of the production, and also more than likely, not totally solve the problem. You would be better served just fabricating a curved piece of glass, expensive, but totally doable. The same thing happens to glass btw, just not as easily.
Another one of my hobbies is studio scale modeling. These techniques are essential to scratch building models, and I enjoy watching these videos a lot for that!
I have another suggestion for closing the top side of the rudder with epoxy, without making an extra hole: * Prepare a PVC foam cap, with cutout for the shaft; * Calculate the amount of epoxy you need for the required thickness on top; * Mix the epoxy, with a little bit of extra, and pour it inside, on top of already cured bottom epoxy; * Seal the top cap with hot glue, all around; * Turn the rudder upside down. The epoxy will flow down to the top part of rudder. Voila!
As usual, another informative video. Loved it! When I make closed boxes with epoxy on the sides, rather than injecting the epoxy through a hole on he other side, I like to fill a bit more than the required volume into the hollow insides and then place a laminated surface over the edge before I flip it over and hot glue the edges. If the epoxy is runny enough, it should self-level before it cures perfectly flat on the inside. It also ends up leaving a thin layer of epoxy on he inside surface sealing it and adding to its strength, albeit only by a small factor.
Great and detailed stuff! I would have also drilled several 1-2 mm "dimples" in the front of the metal axis to prevent sudden epoxy-metal slip from torque.
You might want to rethink the inner bend in that rudder design. Giving a rudder a negative foil shape on both sides will lead to a very bad case of lee helm. Like all things nautical/aerodynamic, positive foil shape (no need for drastic amount, just so long as its there usually) will lend its self to a better responsive helm. heck even a flat blade works better than a negative shape. Also as mentioned its more to do with length of leading edge/depth of the rudder than a wide trailing rudder. The best design for your boat is a semi balanced rudder with a positive foils shape with a deep leading edge with no bottom pinion bracket to spoil laminar flow of the water over the rudder. What you would end up with is a top and mid mount pinion on the rudder BUT a top and BOTTOM mounted receiver bracket on the stern of the hull with a bottom balanced rudder blade. You would also benefit from a swing rudder to get the deeper part of the rudder up out of harms way when beaching, putting it on to a trailer or if you hit something.
If I remember correctly these rudders doesn't stick down below the hulls, so a swing up rudder design probably isn't necessary. And as this is a very small craft, isn't sail powered and not really made for high speeds the forces on these rudders shouldn't be excessive making it unnecessary to use a balanced design. Other than that I think you have some very good points. My own reservations regards the strength of the bond between the rudder blade and the rudder stem, as well as the introduction of a weak spot by drilling and tapping into the stem. I've seen rudders where the stem was broken like a twig when the weather got a bit rough. Now being intended for a low speed craft with the small blades and very limited forces placed on them it's probably not a problem, but it's not something I'd like to see in a rudder for a large sail boat, especially if it's intended for the open sea. But I think we will have to look at it as an example of construction methods and considering the intended use it's probably going to work well enough even if the design isn't optimal for every situation.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 The slower a boat travels the more it will require very efficient control surfaces (rudder) as you do not have a high flow of water to apply directional lateral control. A deep thin rudder is always more effective than a wide shallow rudder in any given circumstance and since he has a limited dead rise at the stern a rudder that passes the keel into clean water (no vortices) in front of the rudders control surface will be the most effective.
Worth adding metal tangs from shaft into blade to transfer torque to blade and avoid shaft shearing out. Forces on rudders can be very large, especially if reversing.
Sound engineering principles + proper materials + well equipped lab/workshop + vast fabrication knowledge + planning ahead + detailed explanations of technique + nicely produced videos = very interesting viewing. IMO, lefties are much more creative, lateral thinkers. So, you've just earned another sub :-) Excellent work! Thank you for going the extra mile with such meticulous consideration involved with all 3 simultaneous products, whatever you're building, the video production, and the delivery of your lesson(s). Looking forward to watching all of your videos.
I know I will never build a rudder, but I know your channel. That has to be interesting... And as usual, it was even better! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with whoever might be interested. Your's as best channel on TH-cam comes as natural.
The best thing I can say about your videos and projects is most of the time I only understand 10% of what you are saying, thank god for Google Definitions. But I keep watching, sometimes two or three times, trying to absorb and understand it all. Great projects and explanations for your technics and why you choose the style for each item.
I did some experiments ages ago mixing dish-soap and epoxy glue, then beating it into a closed-cell foam to make strong, light box section seals. I used it for automobile repairs, and it worked quite well. That might help with the fish tank where you would want a large contact surface.
One of the greatest tech and science channels on youtube! It's hard to find so detailed and so well-presented explanations to everything. Despite the fact the stuff on a channel is kinda random and does not moving in one well-defined direction. But, well, that makes it even more interesting :)
Another great video. It would be cool to see a video about your background. How you came to know so much or how you research your topics. Thanks for the content.
English is not my native language, so i'm very happy to hear the easyest explanation of staff you make! I'm sorry that you didn't use your diffrent epoxy mixes to strengths things up, It could be your "thing". And i want to say that ending of every video where you are saing farewell makes me smile and feel very kind. Thanks a lot for all!
Thanks. Occasionally, we do return to previous topics when we can add additional information like we will be doing soon with our speaker video and the series on the turbojet engine.
To fill the last side of the rudder, you could pour in enough epoxy to make the top cap, plus a bit extra, then hot glue on the pvc cap, flip it over and let it cure.
In one of my architecture classes, we did drawings of hyperbolic-bounded forms.... when I saw your tank idea, i immediately remembered one student's idea of a self-supported awning...his was made of fiberglass/resin panels, each curved to hyperbolic curvature. they connected at the three edges using a c-channel, which worked out nicely because at the edges, the panels were essentially parallel like the back end of the rudder... (his was also tapered so the "back" end was narrower, and provided a slope for rain run off... A few of the advanced students got the idea of trying to do something similar, but use actual fabric for the center panel, to hang in a natural parabolic curve under it's own weight, and letting the sides be preformed curves, but stressed the slightly with a tensioning line connecting the edges to have the whole side slightly under dynamic tension, thus also providing stability to the weight of the fabric roof (and would respond to additional live loading by precipitation) The original design was intended to be something like the Dulles Airport bldg in effect, but of lighter materials overall....
This may have been said before, but you are the Bob Ross of Makers. Everything looks so easy, you are always relaxed, and you are encouraging the viewer to try using the techniques you are teaching in their own projects. I'll probably end up looking like Ralph Wiggum covered in epoxy with some misshapen blob and a goofy smile, but I'm going to have to give this a shot. Maybe build a rotary subwoofer like Chris Hudlin to fill out the bass on the $30 panel speakers, only air powered using Tom Stanton's air motor.
Here are my low-priority comments: - It is better to mix epoxy resin in a paper cup than in a plastic cup because plastic cups can melt during curing. I have experienced this myself even with 120-minute epoxy. - I think you could have filled the rudder with the epoxy first, then glued the lid on and left the rudder to cure with this side down. Then you wouldn't have had to drill a hole. I really like your way of explaining things. 👍
You never know what you'll find on this channel, what I DO know is that SICENCE happening here 🤩🤩🤩 is like on every video we come and comment the same because its a must. This is a knowledge wealthy channel. Thanks for sharing your ideas, knowledge and experience with us 🙌 Also, the fish tank video 👀 we'll be expecting it.
@@TechIngredients Thanks for the response, I watch all your videos with my daughter and I think shes obsessed with your son. Fortunately she hates videos where she doesn't get a very good glimpse; of him like this one. I hope you make more like this.
This technique is awesome, I'll definitely use it. I find foiling sailboats very exciting and that's one of the reasons why I took a leave from my usual job to study boat building. The question of the additive and subtractive methods in lamination and mold/mould making is very important and it's tricky to keep material wasted to a minimum. The method in this video keeps the waste extremely low by the forming material as an integral construct and enables one to make very sharp edges easily (among other benefits like weight, precision and strength). Thanks for sharing and greetings from Finland!
That jig for making the curved aquarium could be used further. The PVC pipe at one end could be painted with Krylon spraypaint and a hole in the base and the top could be the basis of a built-in filter. Put media in the bottom, a pump at the top and you're done.
Watched your video on Rutters at the end you mentioned a fish tank I would definitely love to see that. I love watching everything you do once again thank you sir
Such a great Channel, I got to go back through some videos and see if I missed anything when you were messing with the Magnetohydrodynamics -- it was one of the first videos I found on your channel, the one where you were installing the big magnets inside your shop, channel is so well-rounded but has tons of detail, it's really really good 😊
Nice, cool and interesting epoxy job. But what really intrigued me was that bowed fish tank concept. I had a reef tank, 1.8m long, 0.6m high and 0.4m deep, (6', 2' and 16"). The shop that made it recommended 10mm glass and adding a reinforcement strip of 10mm x 60mm x 1.6m on the inside just below the top edge on the long side to prevent it from bowing out and cracking. It took just a few hours after filling the tank before the reinforcement strip shattered in a few places, and chunks of glass shot off. And the tank had a bow of about 15-20mm at the top both in front and the back, but it seemed to reach its equilibrium at that stage and all was fine till we decommissioned the tank. But all that glass shattering was because of compression in the glass, and I'd not expected that. So the idea of an inverse bow as a dam would have is really interesting. I guess my next reef tank would be of thick acrylic instead of glass, as its much more safe and I guess better refraction.
I love these fabrication videos. The one about Epoxy was the best so far. Really great to see how other people work and to learn new techniques / materials.
God I love these video's! Always something new to learn (if i can keep up) I beg you please, don't put a little montage of what's coming up at the start of the video, it's one of the techniques that regular TV employs and I loath it with the heat of a nova. Just my 2 pence, thanks for the really great, informative videos!
Built a marine plywood (stitch and glue) dinghy with my son. Caught a few fish. Really fun project, would recommend a kit for ease and UV stable epoxy since most of the epoxy flaked disintegrated. Looking forward to your test drives Sir and thank you very much for sharing such great content.
Amazing video!! I'll try to keep that info in the back of my head for whenever I need to fabricate something :) Also, I'd love to see that fish tank finished! :D
Great intro to stressed-panel construction, I now have another whole approach for making structural elements! (Great/clever idea for the fish tank, be sure to let us know how it works out!)
About the solar concentrator you mentioned: The shape formed by a catenary curve (ie, just suspending a sheet between two lines) is a pretty close approximation to a parabola. The catenary curve given by y=n⋅cosh(x/n) is closely approximated by the parabola given by y=n+x^2/(2n). This might be useful for making large/cheap concentrators from aluminized mylar, which could be stiffened by a spray-on adhesive, or perhaps some fiberglass/epoxy which cures to the shape it was hanging in.
@@TechIngredients Yea, TaoFlederMaus did a video demonstrating it a while back. However I haven't heard of anyone using a catenary as a way to form parabolic reflector troughs, so I thought I'd mention it. If I recall correctly, a rotating liquid does form a true paraboloid surface, while a catenary can only be approximated as a parabola for (x/a)
Thanks for yet another informative video! An additional point to not filling the rudder solid: buoyancy. For a given limit on displacement, more weight on the boat is going to induce drag. Given the hydrofoil you showed and the engine upgrade, it seems reasonable to conclude drag is bad for your application. 😁 This could also be a helpful construction method for other compartments!
Speaking of various epoxies and resins - You may check out Electrolube's catalog - My application was for encasing electronics yet still being able to dig out the electronics if they need repairs or troubleshooting - But they have all kinds of resins that may be of use on this project or on others, depending on the properties you need.
Pro tip for hot snot: Isopropyl alcohol! Using rubbing alcohol on PVA will completely remove its effectiveness to adhere once soaked into the material, which means the glue comes off _without damage_ provided the mated surfaces aren't also affected by the alcohol.
Great vid. I probably would have drilled holes in the rudder post and added rods as "fingers" that extend into the rudder. That would give you a lot of leverage on the rudder from the post.
Thank you once again Mr. Main Presenter, for yet another highly useful and very informative video. I enjoy every single topic that you present/educate on this channel. I firmly believe that my continued fascination with your channel is a direct result of your clear, concise, and hands-on teaching style, combined with uncompromising detail, which you freely place on display in each and every one of your excellent videos, for all of us to learn from. Thank you very much for continuing to educate this old man! Your videos have no equal (in my opinion) on TH-cam sir. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family, Mr. Main Presenter. Fred
Yet another good video and topic. There are machines that mix and degas materials like epoxy although it has much wider application. Think centrifuge but with rotating containers. The combination of rotating and orbiting does the mixing and degassing. Might make a good diy build video.
Awesome we went from building parts of a catamaran to seeing your new fish tank design kool segway from one ☝️ to the other. Never know what we are going to learn from you
Very interesting and the detail information is clear like a glass... Please make a video detail, step by step, about how to laminating/coating the surface of the Catamaran... I love the way you explain the detail... It's simple and easy to understand... Thanks...
If you need to drill into the side of a pipe an endmill is the best tool to use. Most of the time one with three or four flutes tend to run smoother then a two fluted and even more flutes just has to small area for chips to evacuate. A much slower feed then with a normal drill is required and of course it has to be a mill with drilling capabilities (cutting teeth all the way to the center. Major drawback is that it can be harder (aka more expensive) to find one with the specific dimension needed - sometimes it pays off to look up both metric and imperial specifications. Now to ponder if I can adopt this technique to make a dagger board for my sailing dinghy (vertical front, arced stern and diagonal top with cutout for a friction pad and a bolt hole for mounting/swinging).
I wish I could subscribe more than once. I’d love a video with a project e.g. the fish tank that specifically focuses on practical manufacturing in an apartment. Many of the techniques you show I think could be scaled down (or up!) into smaller spaces with limited access to tools and a moderate amount of ingenuity, but I think it would be inspiring to see an ultra optimized build. For me very simple practical issues come up, e.g. how do I keep epoxy off my dinner table. How do I buy a piece of acrylic with usable dimensions without spending a bunch of money. How do I build a parallel jig without many tools. Love your videos, I appreciate your work.
Good point to leave the rudder hollow so when you hit it on rocks or on the jetty and it detach from the boat then it'll still float around. Careful with water seeping in and leaving it in sub zero as it can crack open
You do not need the plug for the second side, simply prepare everything, mix and pour in the calculated volume of low-ish viscosity epoxy (open side up), then close the opening off as you did for the first side, seal it up and then turn it over letting the epoxy flow to where it needs to be...
![Chris Langan - The Interview THEY Didn't Want You To See - CTMU [Full Version; Timestamps]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you very much for making this really unpretentious video about an interesting topic. So much of what you see these days on TH-cam is over-sensationalized clickbait. Many other channels have also focused so much on just one narrow field of interest, that they appear as one-trick ponies. Since I've been running a youtube channel myself for the past six years, I know how hard it can be to attract an audience reliably, when you actually cover a wide range of topics, especially if you're doing it with a serious attitude, intended to not simply entertain, but also educate. I'm happy to have found this channel and it's a good sign that it is successful. Best regards from Germany
Thanks!
I enjoy your videos as well. Practical engineering is good engineering.
@@TechIngredients Thanks for the reply. Hope you're all save over there. At the moment I'm probably not the only one watching, who'd also like to literally live in the woods. Take care!
To close the other side you can simply 1) Pour in the epoxy (onto the side that's already epoxy'd) 2) Close the top with the foam and hot glue 3) turn it upside down 4) Wait 5) Profit
@@TechIngredients I think it might be time to start some collaborations within the youtube community. You have the ability to work with many. Stuff Made Here has made a lot of headway in a short amount of time sticking with pure engineering principles. I understand that you have your standout instructional methodology, but seeing engineers working together is part of the magic. Find something extreme to test your ability? Just a thought :) Cheers from Texas.
@@ATX_Engineer you nailed what is likely the main appeal of Tech Ingredients - Standout instructional methodology. And of course, clear and precise descriptions of the principles involved.
Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing how the fish tank turns out.
Me to!
Same here - we used to make these tanks and it's true the strengthening was a challenge. Look for the follow up...
I don't think I'll be building a boat, but the information in this video series is super useful!
2020 Ain't over yet brotha.
Improvised airfoil flaps for entering the atmosphere of various planets that require plundering perhaps?
Same. I am not that interested in boats but his fabrication and engineering knowledge is always useful.
@@DFMurray Hahaha. What about the brimstone-deflector umbrella?
For me, this is one of the best channels on TH-cam (along with Applied Science, Veritasium, and some others)
Do not forget Cody and Nurdrage.
I am not a boat person and I have less than zero interest in making a boat rudder. So I kept ignoring this video when it kept popping up in my recommended list. But finally I gave in and clicked. It was so totally worth it, even though I still have zero interest in boats or boatbuilding. Just listening to this dude talk about engineering and fabrication techniques I feel like I learned more than months of studying.
I have never seen a more professional person in my life! Looking forward to the fantastic fish tank video. I think it will be super useful for many since not only we learn 'how to', but also why.
This video was so well prepared and illustrated without any distracting noticeable cuts inbetween. Excellent!
Thank you!
To fill the bottom piece of the rudder you could glue a PVC foam block with a machined notch to that bottom, turn it facing a flat surface, like a desk, with an inch over the edge of the flat surface. Then you, use the syringe to puncture a small hole on the foam and also fill the interior of the chamber (with the syringe pointing upwards). When you remove the syringe, use the fiberglass tape to hold it closed so the epoxy doesn't drains through the hole. After the epoxy cures, you can remove the PVC foam block and cut/sand the small channel that was originally the hole from the syringe in the PVC foam block.
You could, but I don't see an advantage to the increased work involved.
@@TechIngredients instead of drilling and tapping in the top, you would puncture in the bottom with the syringe, as the bottom PVC foam block will be needed either way. Not so much additional work, maybe even less, without the need to later glue a screw on top.
Go I respect this channel -- We'll go from Salt based cooling to Sound weapons to Boat manufacturing like it ain't a thing.
this should be their intro
th-cam.com/video/u0WOIwlXE9g/w-d-xo.html
14:46 another trick for those who don't have a vacuum chamber, is using a heat gun to bring most bubbles out after applying the epoxy, in this case a small heat gun from a soldering station would give more control.
And you can just hold it at a greater distance, even a hair dryer works.
Gotta be careful with that hot glue though.. The mass market stuff, attached to something smooth like PVC, is not going to stand up to much heat & retain the seal against resin. I suppose, in terms of boat building, bubbles are sort of a bonus feature rather than a bug anyway.
Oh and on the upcoming aquarium project. As a former fish hobbyist, I can tell you that you do not need a transparent back wall. Most aquarium owners paste a background picture in the back of the tank, or simply paint the back glass with a black spray can. The fish actually prefer this, they like to have some privacy and being open on all sides makes them more nervous about predators.
The thin acrylic walls that curve inwards seems great from an engineering and structural standpoint, but from practicalities of fishkeeping it would sacrifice a lot of internal volume. So maybe the back wall can be a flat non-transparent material like aluminum, and just have three sides made of thin curving acrylic?
I didn´t know, that fish also have private matters to discuss behind closed curtains... . Btw, nice dog picture in your profile.
@@ZoonCrypticon haha ok the "privacy" was just my human interpretation, but the behavior is real. Many species of fish absolutely do need rocks and plants and other things to hide behind where they can feel safe from predators. If you put them in a wide open tank with nowhere to hide, they will get overly stressed and you can totally see the bad effect it has on their health. Blocking off at least one glass wall of the aquarium is highly recommended for these type of fish.
Thanks, that's my dog in my profile pic! I don't have fish anymore since I got a dog.... dogs are just better pets.
@@SithLord2066 That's interesting about the need for safety and the effect of long term anxiety. I immediately think that if you make a super cool tank, they'll all just go hide somewhere. I imagine many of these might be reef fish which use the reef very much for cover, or they are fish that would hang by the shore close to cover.
I'm with 7 dogs right now, the Chihuahua is the smallest and loudest which is when I wish he was a fish.
18:00 Low expansion closed cell foam for installing windows and doors would work a treat to fill the whole cavity and also add rigidity.
I think the reason he leaves it empty is to reduce weight though filling the whole cavity does sound easier.
My dad was a dictator and a lecturer; not a teacher like you. You're amazing and I envy your son.
This is definitely among the best channels on TH-cam. I really enjoy the science and engineering explanations you go into. They're very clear, and simply excellent. Thank you for going to all the hard work to share all your knowledge and expertise with the world!
Thanks!
I was an aquarium enthusiast and worked at several large pets stores. The main problem with acrylic tanks is scratches. Cleaning an acrylic tank, no matter how many precautions you take, inevitably become cloudy, covered with micro scratches. The second problem I see with any tank in general, is sealing any two sides at near right angles to one another. With acrylic, a weld is only as good as the welded bond, and in most cases, acrylic welds are not deep enough to be considered a true weld, but more like a "cementing" of the two parts. Bonding with epoxies is not going to stand up to how the water will dry out the epoxy and weaken the bond over several years. The best made tanks I have seen are fully encased fiberglass (using several of the advanced technics you have showcased in other videos using 150 poly foam) incorporating plate glass fronts engulfed fully into a notched recess, giving full contact for the seal of the glass on both side of the seam, and then fully sealed interior with marine grade resin. These tanks last for 50 years or more before any maintenance might be needed for the glass seal. I applaud your concept of a curvy tank, but I am really skeptical about the bonds for each of the parts. I have complete faith that your material will hold the volume of water, but not any faith in the seams of said structure, but I look forward to watching it!
What I have seen in most acrylic manufacturers is a heated sheet formed into a near perfect "U" shape, then they need only seal three lines: right side left side and bottom, to minimize the area of failure.
Epoxy does not dry out. It is used in boat hills below the waterline, and, properly done, has a near infinite life.
@@robertschulke1596 Maybe so- my experience is such that the epoxy bond fails when its on acrylic after a time. Maybe that is just because of the type of epoxy I was using, or prep, or , or, or... could be any number of reasons, idk.
I wonder if applying protective coats to the acrylic could prevent micro scratches?
I wondered about how strong that bond would be, maybe it's the shape that minimizes outward forces?
I'm sure much of the reason for the "U" shape is aesthetic as well as cheaper manufacturing. You could probably make some cool shapes with acrylic. However wonderful ones creation might be I'd doubt the fish would appreciate it, stupid fish.
@@seandelaney1700 Most compounds that do that, (waxes, other acrylics, epoxies, oils) have a cure time which would undermine the cost effectiveness of the production, and also more than likely, not totally solve the problem. You would be better served just fabricating a curved piece of glass, expensive, but totally doable. The same thing happens to glass btw, just not as easily.
Another one of my hobbies is studio scale modeling. These techniques are essential to scratch building models, and I enjoy watching these videos a lot for that!
Thanks.
I have another suggestion for closing the top side of the rudder with epoxy, without making an extra hole:
* Prepare a PVC foam cap, with cutout for the shaft;
* Calculate the amount of epoxy you need for the required thickness on top;
* Mix the epoxy, with a little bit of extra, and pour it inside, on top of already cured bottom epoxy;
* Seal the top cap with hot glue, all around;
* Turn the rudder upside down. The epoxy will flow down to the top part of rudder. Voila!
As usual, another informative video. Loved it!
When I make closed boxes with epoxy on the sides, rather than injecting the epoxy through a hole on he other side, I like to fill a bit more than the required volume into the hollow insides and then place a laminated surface over the edge before I flip it over and hot glue the edges.
If the epoxy is runny enough, it should self-level before it cures perfectly flat on the inside. It also ends up leaving a thin layer of epoxy on he inside surface sealing it and adding to its strength, albeit only by a small factor.
Great and detailed stuff! I would have also drilled several 1-2 mm "dimples" in the front of the metal axis to prevent sudden epoxy-metal slip from torque.
Nice intro. I feel like it’s telling me “Boy, you’re gunna learn today!!!”
Just leaving a comment to say that I thoroughly enjoy the content. Please keep on producing more.
You might want to rethink the inner bend in that rudder design. Giving a rudder a negative foil shape on both sides will lead to a very bad case of lee helm. Like all things nautical/aerodynamic, positive foil shape (no need for drastic amount, just so long as its there usually) will lend its self to a better responsive helm. heck even a flat blade works better than a negative shape. Also as mentioned its more to do with length of leading edge/depth of the rudder than a wide trailing rudder. The best design for your boat is a semi balanced rudder with a positive foils shape with a deep leading edge with no bottom pinion bracket to spoil laminar flow of the water over the rudder. What you would end up with is a top and mid mount pinion on the rudder BUT a top and BOTTOM mounted receiver bracket on the stern of the hull with a bottom balanced rudder blade. You would also benefit from a swing rudder to get the deeper part of the rudder up out of harms way when beaching, putting it on to a trailer or if you hit something.
If I remember correctly these rudders doesn't stick down below the hulls, so a swing up rudder design probably isn't necessary. And as this is a very small craft, isn't sail powered and not really made for high speeds the forces on these rudders shouldn't be excessive making it unnecessary to use a balanced design. Other than that I think you have some very good points.
My own reservations regards the strength of the bond between the rudder blade and the rudder stem, as well as the introduction of a weak spot by drilling and tapping into the stem. I've seen rudders where the stem was broken like a twig when the weather got a bit rough. Now being intended for a low speed craft with the small blades and very limited forces placed on them it's probably not a problem, but it's not something I'd like to see in a rudder for a large sail boat, especially if it's intended for the open sea. But I think we will have to look at it as an example of construction methods and considering the intended use it's probably going to work well enough even if the design isn't optimal for every situation.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 The slower a boat travels the more it will require very efficient control surfaces (rudder) as you do not have a high flow of water to apply directional lateral control. A deep thin rudder is always more effective than a wide shallow rudder in any given circumstance and since he has a limited dead rise at the stern a rudder that passes the keel into clean water (no vortices) in front of the rudders control surface will be the most effective.
We need to see the fish tank video!
This , I really want to see the fish tank being made too.
Worth adding metal tangs from shaft into blade to transfer torque to blade and avoid shaft shearing out. Forces on rudders can be very large, especially if reversing.
Sound engineering principles + proper materials + well equipped lab/workshop + vast fabrication knowledge + planning ahead + detailed explanations of technique + nicely produced videos = very interesting viewing.
IMO, lefties are much more creative, lateral thinkers. So, you've just earned another sub :-)
Excellent work! Thank you for going the extra mile with such meticulous consideration involved with all 3 simultaneous products, whatever you're building, the video production, and the delivery of your lesson(s).
Looking forward to watching all of your videos.
I know I will never build a rudder, but I know your channel. That has to be interesting... And as usual, it was even better! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with whoever might be interested. Your's as best channel on TH-cam comes as natural.
The best thing I can say about your videos and projects is most of the time I only understand 10% of what you are saying, thank god for Google Definitions. But I keep watching, sometimes two or three times, trying to absorb and understand it all. Great projects and explanations for your technics and why you choose the style for each item.
Thanks!
I did some experiments ages ago mixing dish-soap and epoxy glue, then beating it into a closed-cell foam to make strong, light box section seals. I used it for automobile repairs, and it worked quite well. That might help with the fish tank where you would want a large contact surface.
More info on the mixing of epoxy with dish detergent, please.
One of the greatest tech and science channels on youtube! It's hard to find so detailed and so well-presented explanations to everything.
Despite the fact the stuff on a channel is kinda random and does not moving in one well-defined direction. But, well, that makes it even more interesting :)
Thanks!
Another great video. It would be cool to see a video about your background. How you came to know so much or how you research your topics. Thanks for the content.
I was just wondering, "What kind of cool things he worked on in his career?"
*Finally*, a new music track that's actually consistent with the previously established style. Thank you.
English is not my native language, so i'm very happy to hear the easyest explanation of staff you make! I'm sorry that you didn't use your diffrent epoxy mixes to strengths things up, It could be your "thing". And i want to say that ending of every video where you are saing farewell makes me smile and feel very kind. Thanks a lot for all!
I like the fact that, all your videos line up one after the other, versus other Channels that go back to previous videos.
Thanks.
Occasionally, we do return to previous topics when we can add additional information like we will be doing soon with our speaker video and the series on the turbojet engine.
To fill the last side of the rudder, you could pour in enough epoxy to make the top cap, plus a bit extra, then hot glue on the pvc cap, flip it over and let it cure.
I thought that myself, but then --- there has to be a way out for the gases
Amazing content! One of the best channels on TH-cam.
Thanks!
Excellent and inspiring,
I feel like I can make that hull vane now for my boat and actually succeed.
Thank you and God bless you always
I'm learning so much from watching your videos. Thank you so much for making them.
In one of my architecture classes, we did drawings of hyperbolic-bounded forms.... when I saw your tank idea, i immediately remembered one student's idea of a self-supported awning...his was made of fiberglass/resin panels, each curved to hyperbolic curvature. they connected at the three edges using a c-channel, which worked out nicely because at the edges, the panels were essentially parallel like the back end of the rudder... (his was also tapered so the "back" end was narrower, and provided a slope for rain run off...
A few of the advanced students got the idea of trying to do something similar, but use actual fabric for the center panel, to hang in a natural parabolic curve under it's own weight, and letting the sides be preformed curves, but stressed the slightly with a tensioning line connecting the edges to have the whole side slightly under dynamic tension, thus also providing stability to the weight of the fabric roof (and would respond to additional live loading by precipitation) The original design was intended to be something like the Dulles Airport bldg in effect, but of lighter materials overall....
WOW You're a great teacher thoroughly!
This may have been said before, but you are the Bob Ross of Makers. Everything looks so easy, you are always relaxed, and you are encouraging the viewer to try using the techniques you are teaching in their own projects. I'll probably end up looking like Ralph Wiggum covered in epoxy with some misshapen blob and a goofy smile, but I'm going to have to give this a shot. Maybe build a rotary subwoofer like Chris Hudlin to fill out the bass on the $30 panel speakers, only air powered using Tom Stanton's air motor.
Thanks!
We may actually do that.
Here are my low-priority comments:
- It is better to mix epoxy resin in a paper cup than in a plastic cup because plastic cups can melt during curing. I have experienced this myself even with 120-minute epoxy.
- I think you could have filled the rudder with the epoxy first, then glued the lid on and left the rudder to cure with this side down. Then you wouldn't have had to drill a hole.
I really like your way of explaining things. 👍
Crisp thinking, explanation and execution. Great build videos.
You never know what you'll find on this channel, what I DO know is that SICENCE happening here 🤩🤩🤩 is like on every video we come and comment the same because its a must. This is a knowledge wealthy channel. Thanks for sharing your ideas, knowledge and experience with us 🙌
Also, the fish tank video 👀 we'll be expecting it.
This is such a great series. Thanks for taking the time to share your considerable knowledge!
Thank you.
So glad I found your channel. You've given me many ideas to run with. Thanks!
Glad you finally came back to your senses and to get back to make videos that matter
I think they all matter although some may appeal more to certain viewers.
@@TechIngredients Thanks for the response, I watch all your videos with my daughter and I think shes obsessed with your son. Fortunately she hates videos where she doesn't get a very good glimpse; of him like this one.
I hope you make more like this.
This technique is awesome, I'll definitely use it. I find foiling sailboats very exciting and that's one of the reasons why I took a leave from my usual job to study boat building. The question of the additive and subtractive methods in lamination and mold/mould making is very important and it's tricky to keep material wasted to a minimum. The method in this video keeps the waste extremely low by the forming material as an integral construct and enables one to make very sharp edges easily (among other benefits like weight, precision and strength). Thanks for sharing and greetings from Finland!
Thank you and welcome!
Excellent - that rudder is a work of art!
That jig for making the curved aquarium could be used further. The PVC pipe at one end could be painted with Krylon spraypaint and a hole in the base and the top could be the basis of a built-in filter. Put media in the bottom, a pump at the top and you're done.
Great video. Can’t wait to see the tank take shape. Thanks for all the effort in making these.
Watched your video on Rutters at the end you mentioned a fish tank I would definitely love to see that. I love watching everything you do once again thank you sir
This man helps me understand what i want my retirement to look like in 40 years.
I love how you present your videos! Please keep it up.
eagerly awaiting video on solar cell concentrator!
Such a great Channel, I got to go back through some videos and see if I missed anything when you were messing with the Magnetohydrodynamics -- it was one of the first videos I found on your channel, the one where you were installing the big magnets inside your shop, channel is so well-rounded but has tons of detail, it's really really good 😊
Nice, cool and interesting epoxy job. But what really intrigued me was that bowed fish tank concept.
I had a reef tank, 1.8m long, 0.6m high and 0.4m deep, (6', 2' and 16"). The shop that made it recommended 10mm glass and adding a reinforcement strip of 10mm x 60mm x 1.6m on the inside just below the top edge on the long side to prevent it from bowing out and cracking.
It took just a few hours after filling the tank before the reinforcement strip shattered in a few places, and chunks of glass shot off. And the tank had a bow of about 15-20mm at the top both in front and the back, but it seemed to reach its equilibrium at that stage and all was fine till we decommissioned the tank. But all that glass shattering was because of compression in the glass, and I'd not expected that.
So the idea of an inverse bow as a dam would have is really interesting. I guess my next reef tank would be of thick acrylic instead of glass, as its much more safe and I guess better refraction.
Awesome ending and it was completely clear right to the end! Thanks from Nova Scotia.
It is very satisfying to watch your technical videos......
Thank you!
I love these fabrication videos. The one about Epoxy was the best so far. Really great to see how other people work and to learn new techniques / materials.
Good work ! Finally a channel I can walk away from feeling smarter!
God I love these video's! Always something new to learn (if i can keep up)
I beg you please, don't put a little montage of what's coming up at the start of the video, it's one of the techniques that regular TV employs and I loath it with the heat of a nova.
Just my 2 pence, thanks for the really great, informative videos!
Couldn't agree more
A great explanation. These videos give me the confidence to start my own builds!
Great!!
Built a marine plywood (stitch and glue) dinghy with my son. Caught a few fish. Really fun project, would recommend a kit for ease and UV stable epoxy since most of the epoxy flaked disintegrated. Looking forward to your test drives Sir and thank you very much for sharing such great content.
Amazing video!! I'll try to keep that info in the back of my head for whenever I need to fabricate something :)
Also, I'd love to see that fish tank finished! :D
Really enjoy your videos, I appreciate your detail and knowledge. Thank you for what you're doing here. ✌
I have been watching you videos for hours now, just keep it up ur a legend, great topic , presentation & explanation 👏 👍
I would love to see this fish tank finished, my brother is into fishkeeping and I think he would love it as well
Nice swaps dude. Fantastic presentation. You are really entertaining and educational!
Great intro to stressed-panel construction, I now have another whole approach for making structural elements! (Great/clever idea for the fish tank, be sure to let us know how it works out!)
I like how he takes a whole two minutes to explain how to exactly put tape on the ends of fiberglass panels
I've never tried it myself but I imagine it's easy to screw up and would probably ruin the project.
I loved that "It's best to press the tape from the center, but it's not really necessary", I'm thinking it's necessary. Great tape too.
About the solar concentrator you mentioned: The shape formed by a catenary curve (ie, just suspending a sheet between two lines) is a pretty close approximation to a parabola. The catenary curve given by y=n⋅cosh(x/n) is closely approximated by the parabola given by y=n+x^2/(2n). This might be useful for making large/cheap concentrators from aluminized mylar, which could be stiffened by a spray-on adhesive, or perhaps some fiberglass/epoxy which cures to the shape it was hanging in.
Are you aware of the experiments decades ago to build astronomical, parabolic reflectors with a rotating dish of mercury?
@@TechIngredients Yea, TaoFlederMaus did a video demonstrating it a while back. However I haven't heard of anyone using a catenary as a way to form parabolic reflector troughs, so I thought I'd mention it. If I recall correctly, a rotating liquid does form a true paraboloid surface, while a catenary can only be approximated as a parabola for (x/a)
Thanks for yet another informative video! An additional point to not filling the rudder solid: buoyancy. For a given limit on displacement, more weight on the boat is going to induce drag. Given the hydrofoil you showed and the engine upgrade, it seems reasonable to conclude drag is bad for your application. 😁 This could also be a helpful construction method for other compartments!
It might be handy that they float. Weight out of the ends is generally a good thing, particularly in waves.
That's quite ingenious materials work, thanks for the consistent quality content!
Sure, thanks for watching.
Spread the word.
Great idea. Thanks again. Keep up those videos coming.
What you teach is incredible. Thank you.
Sure, thanks!
Speaking of various epoxies and resins - You may check out Electrolube's catalog - My application was for encasing electronics yet still being able to dig out the electronics if they need repairs or troubleshooting - But they have all kinds of resins that may be of use on this project or on others, depending on the properties you need.
Loving it. As for expanding foam. That may delaminate the surface bonds and further should water get in extremely difficult to remove.
Always enjoyable and informative! Thanks!
Pro tip for hot snot: Isopropyl alcohol! Using rubbing alcohol on PVA will completely remove its effectiveness to adhere once soaked into the material, which means the glue comes off _without damage_ provided the mated surfaces aren't also affected by the alcohol.
Great techniques always a pleasure to watch. Thank you
Thanks professor! You inspired a new manufacturing solution idea for me.
Great!
Can't wait to see that aquarium project!
Great vid. I probably would have drilled holes in the rudder post and added rods as "fingers" that extend into the rudder. That would give you a lot of leverage on the rudder from the post.
You know it's a proper DIY project when the hot glue guns comes out ;)
Thank you once again Mr. Main Presenter, for yet another highly useful and very informative video. I enjoy every single topic that you present/educate on this channel. I firmly believe that my continued fascination with your channel is a direct result of your clear, concise, and hands-on teaching style, combined with uncompromising detail, which you freely place on display in each and every one of your excellent videos, for all of us to learn from. Thank you very much for continuing to educate this old man! Your videos have no equal (in my opinion) on TH-cam sir.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family, Mr. Main Presenter. Fred
Thanks and the same to you!😘
Looking forward to the aquarium results!
Yet another good video and topic. There are machines that mix and degas materials like epoxy although it has much wider application. Think centrifuge but with rotating containers. The combination of rotating and orbiting does the mixing and degassing. Might make a good diy build video.
... a level of creativity that at some point gradates into art ...
Thanks!
Great video! Always learning interesting things here - hoping to apply some of them soon..
Great instruction, information, and video - as always thank you!
Awesome we went from building parts of a catamaran to seeing your new fish tank design kool segway from one ☝️ to the other. Never know what we are going to learn from you
Very interesting and the detail information is clear like a glass... Please make a video detail, step by step, about how to laminating/coating the surface of the Catamaran... I love the way you explain the detail... It's simple and easy to understand... Thanks...
Thank you!
If you need to drill into the side of a pipe an endmill is the best tool to use. Most of the time one with three or four flutes tend to run smoother then a two fluted and even more flutes just has to small area for chips to evacuate. A much slower feed then with a normal drill is required and of course it has to be a mill with drilling capabilities (cutting teeth all the way to the center.
Major drawback is that it can be harder (aka more expensive) to find one with the specific dimension needed - sometimes it pays off to look up both metric and imperial specifications.
Now to ponder if I can adopt this technique to make a dagger board for my sailing dinghy (vertical front, arced stern and diagonal top with cutout for a friction pad and a bolt hole for mounting/swinging).
Absolutely outstanding as always!
I wish I could subscribe more than once.
I’d love a video with a project e.g. the fish tank that specifically focuses on practical manufacturing in an apartment. Many of the techniques you show I think could be scaled down (or up!) into smaller spaces with limited access to tools and a moderate amount of ingenuity, but I think it would be inspiring to see an ultra optimized build. For me very simple practical issues come up, e.g. how do I keep epoxy off my dinner table. How do I buy a piece of acrylic with usable dimensions without spending a bunch of money. How do I build a parallel jig without many tools.
Love your videos, I appreciate your work.
Although you can only subscribe once, you can tell others and spread the word. It really helps!😀
Good point to leave the rudder hollow so when you hit it on rocks or on the jetty and it detach from the boat then it'll still float around. Careful with water seeping in and leaving it in sub zero as it can crack open
You do not need the plug for the second side, simply prepare everything, mix and pour in the calculated volume of low-ish viscosity epoxy (open side up), then close the opening off as you did for the first side, seal it up and then turn it over letting the epoxy flow to where it needs to be...
Again, such an amazing video! You are fantastic!
Excellent video
May consider using weld on acrylic solvent weld for the tank. Gives a nice, clear joint!
I just got to compliment your cameramen.
Vast improvement over time.
Now I'll sub.
Thanks!
We're both learning.