I'm really liking your content lately. As a fellow professional, your ideas, designs and execution are a1. I know it must be a pain to produce all the videos. But you are providing so much value I just want to thank you for all your hard work.
@@TechIngredients Hi, I'm wondering if you'd consider looking at some kind of Laser Rust Remover as a possible DIY project. Take a look at something like this: th-cam.com/video/ACGSzBXKONo/w-d-xo.html I've read that such devices can even work effectively with 50W or 100W lasers, and given their obvious utility for so many things, I was wondering if such devices can even be made as a DIY project.
Seems like you've got more than enough power in the linear actuator to use a much shorter arm on the rudder. Might be worth it to speed up steering response.
its brobably enough for the gasoline propultion but when he puts on a sail all the power will be needed because there are a few effects that can happen i have expierienced one of them in german it is called "sonnenschuss" this effect happens when wind and wave and current hit the boat at an exact angel and then there is a huge force on the rudder it often even breaks it even on larger yachts so i think the arm is good as it is.
I was thinking the same thing and honestly he can have a variety of sizes to suit his propulsion methods longer arm for sailing shorter for engine or electric.
well he could install another axel on the arm further in so the actuator could be connected on either, but then I think he never wants to turn the boot on the spot either :-)
Pay close attention, if the world ends soon this stuff'll be handy. There's a book called Con Nuestros Propios Esfuerzos that is also very useful in "the world ended but we still have buildings" type situations.
Thank you for explaining things in an understandable, accessible way. The science channel of my childhood (90's-00's) *wishes* it had the quality of content found here.
Not necessarily, at high speed, a gentle touch is what you need, you definitely do not want the rudder to act as a major braking system and loss of control if moved too quickly.
@@ericdelevinquiere9902 For sailing boats you absolutely want that capability. It's the only real braking maneuver you get with that. Dunno what it's called in English though But sailing's not high speed, so your point still stands
@@ilikeyourname4807 Sailing is not high speed? Similar to this boat, think of a high performance beach catamaran, scary fast, now add foils, you would smoke this boat. Let's not even talk about ice boats. And yes, just a minor adjustment of the helm and they turn like a Formula 1.
i feel like the rudder system is not responsive enough. but that's just one guys opinion. i feel like the pully system might be a nice removable alternative
That's what I was thinking! And what if you run out of battery power and you still have gas for the engine? Then your boat is uncontrollable! Or what if you lose an actuator due to a failure, then you have no backup if you're out in the middle of a big lake, for instance. A pulley system would be something to think about adding as a reliable backup or as a replacement for the actuators altogether.
Battery could be charged from the motor if it has a charging or lighting generator? but a smaller lead cell battery or gel cell battery may give more battery life? worst case a paddle can be used for steering :P Also if he wants a faster movement of the rudders a shorter throw lever on the rudder can accomplish that, just saying.
@@nyxkeres8597 Well in this case the motor does not have electrical output, seeing as it's a swamp motor. If you would want to charge your battery from the motor you'd need to install a generator on it. And as this motor does not have an accessory gear box, you'd need some construction to build it onto the driveshaft, in between the propeller and the motor output shaft, which would be a pretty difficult task. Not to mention the added weight on a supposedly lightweight catamaran ;)
I've been a fan of the Thai long tail from the time I first saw one in the Philippines. Keep things as simple as possible but not simpler, said Einstein. Beauty!
Thank you a lot for running such an interesting channel. The depth of knowledge in different fields that you show is astounding :) I replaced an old gasoline engine on my sailboat to an electric this spring. I had just the same type of forward-neutral-reverse switch mounted on a wired controller (not for steering in my case, but for engine rotation direction). But when we accidentally dropped the controller on deck, with the switch taking the impact, it got stuck in neutral, rendering the engine inoperable. Being a sailboat we could go to a sheltered bay and make a repair, but on a boat without redundancy propulsion, or if the boat can't be maneuvered with the switch broken (like if it controls the rudder). It goes to show how much a small little button affects the operation of the boat.
This guy is seriously my hero! I wish to aspire to be: "so cool that I can explain highly technical details in 30 minute videos and even get 6 second attention span millennials to pay attention!"
I am building an electric drive for my 65' live aboard proa with a very similar shaft/prop arrangement. All home built of course. I got a few useful tips from your video regarding the balance of the prop in the water. Thnx!
Yeah I'd like to see how this pans out. I had a similar actuator on a power wheels truck and it was terrible. The worst part is it locks the steering, so if you want to manually override you have to disconnect it.
@@firstmkb Yes, the faster you go the less rudder deflection required. But the response time on this system will be very slow. Without feedback you will have to respond after you start veering off course, then you will have to straighten the rudder before you get back on course to ovoid overshooting (which will be nearly impossible). They will be endlessly chasing a straight course. I predict that they will remove the linear actuators and replace with a proper tiller system using push-pull rods and a tiller, like a typical beach cat uses. It would be equally easy to set up and break down as the linear actuators, and infinitely more appropriate for a vessel that should be able to achieve more than a couple knots of speed.
Superb content, in such diverse fields. Certainly, one of my favourite channels, watching all your videos. Thank you so much for the brilliant teaching, logical thinking, and so well explained!
You and I are so similar. It's unfortunate that we live on opposite ends of the country, I would have enjoyed meeting you and trading ideas. Love your work!
Technical but very easy for anyone to understand. Excellent job and ill be waiting for the next video. Thank you for all your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
I don't know much about boats but my gut feeling tells me I'd want faster actuators for the rudders in order to get a quicker response, what's your take on control speed here?
Just a thought. It may be easier to navigate if you wire the double throw switch transverse at the top of the bar, removed from the potted driver assembly. Then again, your thumb may have greater range of motion offset from the central axis of your palm. Anyways, love your content as always. Best engineering channel on TH-cam, can't wait till you guys cross that million sub count.
As always, both educational and fun videos. I've learnt much from your channel. Two questions: how do you keep the two rudders synchronized and not get out of step with each other, and will the rudders respond fast enough for all practical sailing scenarios?
had the question as well. Also, i think that returning the rudders to neutral position is going to be a challenge... all that seems like a very uncontrollable boat.
One always learns a lot of new things on your channel! I left a couple suggestions for projects on the patreon page! One about a DIY Digital Micromirror Device laser projector (worlds best projector, in addition to the best speakers), and another about a DIY heat recovery ventilation system (a continuation of the climate control videos). It would be very interesting to know if you find these projects feasible/interesting. Many thanks for your great work!
MEMS are crazy stuff, better to buy something in my opinion. Once done with all these other projects lol, i would definetly love more of the Dessicant AC series (perhaps make more modular + contanerized, diy fans, etc) !
@@ericlotze7724 It sure seems complex with Digital Micromirror Devices, but if it is at all feasible to make DIY project, then it is something on the level of Tech Ingredients team. :)
@@outputcoupler7819 Actually they have to live at 88 Moscow road & yes moscow also=88. Doesn't anyone actually know what 88 is from, geez louise this simulation so many built in blind spot programs. Look up HAUHET & HEH who is also called KEK the frog guy from Egypt it's why people talk about Q & QA.... If only people could read hieroglyphs lol oh well maybe in the next run of the simulation you'll improve.
@@outputcoupler7819 Perfect example thank you hence the fake name & image which=fear this is understandable like your quick diversion to personal ad hominem lol classic tropes along with the reverse psychology like Russia gate or the deep state is after me or the media is fake which of course it is that doesn't make them all not part of the same act. No I don't watch wrestling thinking it's real either but hey you do you right .
A really nice project. I will never build one but very pleasurable to watch. Some of the ideas you develop, the way you build things may actually end up in something I make. Your solutions are so neat. Thanks for all.
As an engineering student this is one of my favorite channels, keep up the great work! Side note: "NACA" is an acronym, like ASCII or NASA, so it can be pronounced as a word.
It is actually a HDD disk platter with the read/write head. This is what it looks like with the case removed. It is interesting what different people see when they are all looking at the same thing eh?
What's interesting is that hard disk technology has changed enough that spinning drives aren't necessarily what people think of anymore when you say hard disk. Everyone understands the meaning of the save icon used in most programs, but a whole generation has been born since 3.5" floppy disks were in common use.
@@peglor Floppy disks and this are two different things. Being born after something doesn't mean anything. Wanting to gain knowledge does. Every computer sold nowadays has HDD's in them. Unless you pay extra for a SSD.
@@flexopuppy If you consider phones and tablets to be computers, which I do given that they are, then solid state memory is already in more common use by more people than spinning HDDs. On most laptops at this stage unless you only look at very low end ones, you get an SSD by default even on the bottom of the range. Bigger/gaming laptops sometimes still have a spinning disk for long term and high volume storage, but boot from SSD. Datacentres are probably the last big hold out for spinning drives, and even those, depending on the cost/benefit data are moving to solid state drives. What I find more interesting is the storage methods that were used really early in the development of computers - this is a particularly unusual example: th-cam.com/video/2BIx2x-Q2fE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Numberphile
Very nice and informative video, thanks! I am the guy doing the Bris 430 solar inflatable. I may end up doing a hybrid design with a gas engine for extra speed to get to point a and b. I think, definitely if I want to be able to plane and determine I need 20hp +. Boat rated to 30hp. But the Elco 9.9 electric doesn't take too much power and is competitively priced to the equivalent gas. The 20+ hp Elco's are a lot more expensive than gas and draw too much electrical power to be effective for me, I think. The boat is also rated to 1980lb load, just don't want to exceed 1500lb as I could still float without a real problem ect. If I lose one of my 6 individual chambers and even part of another one. I am also going to look into getting a regular 4 stroke gas engine and see what is available for a vertical transom mount adapter. I've seen the long mud motor adapters, like you have here, but not a vertical version?
we all know what this is about. there's no useful information in the wasteful first long 6 seconds. i vote for exorcism of the aggression so as to enjoy the meal part right away. OR PEASE REMOVE THE SOUND TRACK OF STRESS during those 6 seconds for peace.
So Cool, though that rudder looks a bit slow to use at fast speed in crowded waters. Specifically the return rate for that boat size should be around 1 second or less. You may want to shorten its torque arm if you want the actuators. I would use 2 springs and 2 cables, one pre-tensioned spring on each rudder in opposite directions to keep center and a cable to both rudders from a central steering wheel or bar. Maybe use pressure activated torque as a power steering option. Thus if you ever use this hull with a more powerful motor you will have enough steering response.
I wish more video players had Dynamic Range Compression. It's great for bringing the sounds together on the same "level". I know the vlc player can do this.
Yeah, I have to agree. The intro music was too loud, coming from another YT video I got blasted. Then once the intro was over I had to turn up the volume to understand him better.
I use those actuators for web steering applications. The one I use is the same size, and it produces a maximum force of 500N. It's perfect for working a rudder, they also do not back drive, so when you let go of the steering, the rudder will stay where you left it, and therefore you will be able to trim the boat straight very nicely in a crosswind. Nice video and project, I like it. Kind regards, Duncan, South Africa
long time listener, first time caller :) just fyi, it's KNOTS when you're on a boat, not mph or meters/sec. OK, maybe for you rocket scientists, meters/sec IS appropriate. you know i'm just teasing :) good stuff as always !!!
@@TechIngredients @Kevin Bauer @wobbly sauce I humbly suggest we follow protocol; we should go back to fundamental units, such as the ones used to express how much 'ux' is in a Flux Capacitor: knot-second-mole per coulomb-meter^2-ounce 🤔🙄😏😂😂😂
You are getting lots of comments on the rudders from several folks who sound like they know what they are talking about.my comment is just on the location of the battery for the actuator’s. I strongly recommend a housing for the battery that’s attached to the hull frame. The power cord should be the high strength insulated marine grade cord and it should run through a compression fitting . Since your ability to steer the boat is dependent on that battery the Velcro solution is a possible fail point where you could lose the battery or lose power if a wire pulled loose or short out if a wire was abraded through the insulation. I had an fail on a prototype I was testing last weekend that was similar to this and I spent hours trying to jerry rig a way to steer back to shore. It seems like a very minor thing but those are the things that stop you dead because they get overlooked on a complex prototype build. Love your channel and I’m looking forward to seeing how the boat goes with the long tail and as a hydrofoil. BTW you should look at Kippwa power props for your trolling motors to get more speed. They use a 3 blade setup and are pitched more aggressively for speed. That harbor freight motor is cheap but so noisy it would be great to see your boat “fly” with electric power. 🤙🏼🏄🏼♂️
Some multi hull boats now are using partial lift hydrofoils, not designed to fully lift the boat free from the water, just to help the boat not have as much wetted area, and less drag.
I spent some time a couple years ago working on an autonomous surface vehicle to deploy an ROV (project is currently on indefinite hold due to changes in circumstances). I wanted to use electric motors for reliability, but found that designing something with off the shelf parts that can beat a trolling motor's speed is either really difficult, or really expensive. What I'd settled on for my first prototype that never got built was four T200 thrusters from Blue Robotics. At maximum voltage they give you close to 1HP each (648 W claimed in the datasheet), with a fairly aggressive prop pitch. Total thrust would have only been about 60 pounds, but top speed should have been reasonable. And having four motors gave me the warm fuzzies about reliability. Might be a solution worth testing on your boat, though yours seems to be much heavier than mine so four might not be enough.
I sail a 18' Hobie Tiger sail catamaran, the only thing I can say is that the rudders seem quite short. On Hobie's the rudders protrudes an extra 1.5' below the hull. Also by linking the rudders with a horizontal tie rod like on a Hobie you would only need a single actuator if you were going to upgrade to a faster actuator.
Good job. I love how you explain everything. I’ve been on a boat in Thailand with one of these. Some of them even use V8 engines balanced. I have seen a few of these in Alaska used to run up rocky river.. On another note, growing up in the 60s my Dad had a cabin in Newark near Center Pond. I fished Bean Brook many times as a kid.
I have a cat. that is powered by an outboard mounted in the same location as your engine. With my rudders hard to port or starboard, still requires approximately 30 yards to turn around. I steer from same location using cable and pulleys. I fear the actuators may be too slow at slower speeds. Love your channel, fantastic presentations, and great content. Best on TH-cam in my opinion. Keep up the great work, you are an inspiration to us all !
Yeah the lightened aluminum looks dope. And I always wondered about those Thai boats. Another question answered by this channel that I wasn’t expecting to ever be answered. There’s only one problem with this channel. There isn’t enough of it!
I initially started watching the first boat building video because I want to build a sailboat. I'm starting with a scale model, similar to the one you built. Im fascinated with the direction you're heading. I'm planning to make a 2 masted boat, one mast in each hull. I'm making a video of it, to be posted later. Keep up the good work.
Motor drive and rudder control looks great.The thing that does throw some concern my way is that the engine mounted below the deck might catch some water if while on the lake a summer storm would hit.I think it might need some kind of shroud if used in this manner. Sincerely,Bruce Foster
The extended shaft boat motor, like the outboard, is an American invention. Calle was mass producing them more than a hundred years ago. Long before Thailand ever saw an internal combustion engine. The link below is a video of a 1925 Calle Liberty Twin in action. In regards to your steering control, there is another option that you didn't mention: push-pull cable. They're available in numerous sizes and load capacities, and can be quickly connected with a clevis. Unlike your current binary control, a push-pull cable permits full proportional control with feedback. This is something that you will want as you go faster. I'm not a big fan of your single asymmetrical rudder. So far, you've only achieved very low speeds, so any inadequacies in your steering system haven't been a problem, but as you go faster you will not be as happy with your current arrangement. A simple tie rod can be used to connect a second rudder to the first. th-cam.com/video/aDiXEVO1Vik/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=UpperCanadaChapter-AOMCIAntiqueOutboardMotorClub
Noted that the rudders may be used for different applications such as sail as well, but the switch is mounted to the handle for the gas engine. Perhaps you could go with a deck-mounted rocker so that you can control the rudder with your foot instead? Combined with some waterproof plugs, this would also allow you to permanently install the wiring to prevent damage. I'm in agreement with others that the velcro mounting for the battery is a bit on the weak side. Can you perhaps go with some larger batteries permanently installed in the pontoons and connected via waterproof connectors to the harness? That way the batteries and harness are always there for rudders, night time nav lights, or whatever else you may want to connect.
Don't let your linear actuators get wet, I used them it was a disaster for me. they are not sealed well. Even rain will get into them and quickly ruin the micro switches. Looking forward to seeing a voyage with this setup 👍👍👍
Great work. I really enjoy your content! If you stepped the motor up to a 420cc predator you could have charging capacity and even better break out power. They only produce 3 amp for charging though. There are other variations available from other brands that have a 18amp charging system option. My daughter has a 420 predator on her 16’ flat bottom and it gets along very well. I know the portability of the motor becomes an issue because the 420 weighs a healthy chunk. A tiny pulley set up to lower it, and some small dolly wheels on the motor end would allow you to move the motor like a dolly. Just an idea... One more point would be that your steering system looks great and is very inspiring. I do fear it may operate a little slow for some situations and prevent spirited operation of your craft. I appreciate this boat build and hope to build a similar craft of my own. Thank you sir!
I have been playing with long tail boas for years. I live in the south of Thailand, only just found out why they are mounted on a pin. It is so if you get into trouble you can unmount the engine meaning the boat wont sink. Yes you loose the engine but better then sinking. I use a turbo 4d56 Mitsubishi truck engine. Good times.
Wow, that is really cool!!! I'm concerned about the rudder system though, catamarans are hard to turn compared to monohulls. The electric system is quite slow, but what is more important, the rudders are very short and they have a very small wetted area. You would think one solution would be to design a rudder with a much bigger chord. It may work, but it will need a huge force to steer and what is more important: if you plan to try powering the boat with sails, the steering system will be very stressed by the lateral forces. The way to go in my opinion would be to look at typical rudder designs for sailboats: relatively small chord but a long span that goes under the water. This allows you to steer with very little effort, quickly and in a small radius. Of course there is the problem of hitting the ground with the tips of the rudder if you want to sail from a beach or you encounter shallow waters. Beach catamarans like Hobiecats have rudders that can rotate upwards, but it adds quite a bit of complexity to the system. This is quite an issue, I see why you would like to test the current rudder design, but keep in mind that you probably won’t be able to turn the boat swiftly, and now you have considerable more power and you’ll be able to reach more dangerous speeds! By the way, I’m looking forward to learning about the process to fabricate the rudders!
Loved the previous version of the catamaran, and could tell from the smiles of the people on board and spectators that it was a lot of fun. However, if you are not laughing maniacally sometimes there is definitely something missing from the boating experience! Greatly looking forward to seeing the new iteration in full flight! Thanks for the wonderful videos. They are unique in the making explicit the detailed thought processes that go into great engineering design, and revealing how endlessly interesting but rewarding and useful engineering is as a vocation.
Were you not concerned with the speed of the linear actuators in the control system? I know this boat is only going to be used in a rather leisurely manner, but quick control of your rudders can be particularly useful in low speed maneuverability like docking and such.
Great project! Can't wait to see it in the water! An electric motor for steering would have been my last choice. It adds more things that can failure. You need a charged battery even if you run the boat with gas or with wind. And on top, these motors are a quite slow. So the boat becomes less maneuverable.
I've been subscribed for quite some time now, and I have to say that with every video, I'm always in awe of the level of attention paid to the fabrication. I do understand that we may be seeing the result of multiple design and manufacturing iterations, but in any case the quality is top-notch. Hats off to you folks, and I'm looking forward to new projects and videos as they come along!
I would weld motorcycle handles on that "control pipe" where you have indicators to steer left & right. Then I'll use hydraulic or spring on the rear pipe of the motor for up & down (switch on motorcycle handles) to make it easier
You need not worry about having too little details. Your projects are always interesting and you seem to think of nearly every possible problem that we might encounter during the build and as well the operation or function of it. I like the variety too. Even if you do something I am not necessarily a candidate for, I still find it most interesting. Thank you for your channel.
Totally awesome to see the 4 cycle engine choice. I've been rescuing the made in the U.S., for the most part, engines when I find them since is addicting at free or like $50 or less with more parts to play with... including garden tractors as platforms for a vast array of tools and modifications to go in many places. Recently, I found these mud runners being sold for like 10 grand and more with the Vanguard engines. Literally, was just at the neighbors where I'm working and he has an older Evenrude with U.S. Coast Guard history to go with it outboard engine he wants to get rid of and I told em I'd take it and help him get his other one he wants to keep running reliably. Yeah... crazy... even the Honda's are amazingly reliable for amazing prices where most the time the air filter or carb needs to be cleaned. Maybe the valves needs to be gaped and otherwise... most sell since something more catastrophic has failed that can be observed. Maybe some gaskets are another easy cost effective repair since those can be made with the Permatex products.... Type 2 for the gas exposed intake related. Amazing is, I've purchases three new carbs and after I ordered... I was able to get the originals cleaned and sealed. Unfortunately, the return shipping costs more than the cheapo carbs or maybe in certain situations if I finagle I get like 4-5 dollars refunded for all the hassle. Great detail as always! Thanks for sharing... very awesome!
Takes time to surf around the craigslist, facebook marketplace, offerup and other listings for free or the cost effective since many others are looking for the same... at least in my areas I'll drive to with the Prius. The Vanguards are usually more expensive used. $70 for the 18HP one I scored with a White garden tractor I disassembled what I could fit into the car and that was like a 8hr round trip find to go get.
Man, you guys are my Discovery Channel(from back when it was about science and not reality TV) THANK YOU for sharing your projects with us. BTW, good job on the new intros.
I've been designing and building parts of my catamaran too but mine is smaller and more portable. I'm thinking of using such a long tail design too, but I will be mounting a relatively small electric motor in each hull so steering is accomplished by changing the power to each side.
Add two short downward facing fins to the shaft rudder to help pull the propeller down. It will help with cavitation. Go devil motors have a nice design
Those rudder actuators are the same drive motors that are inside electric recliner chairs and couches… I’ve collected many of them over the years from disposed couches and chairs. I made a dump trailer for my Atv using one that had the highest newtons of force that I could find… i think it was marked 2500 newtons, when the average chair motor was around only around 12 to 1500 so this one was quite beefy lol it was already powered by a 12v supply that normally plugged into a home receptacle so I just eliminated the converter/transformer. It required about 5 amps so I didn’t bother wiring it to my Atv battery… that would be too harsh on my stator and small battery so i used a separate car battery and kept it on a tender. The trailer was quite handy. It could lift and dump around 500lbs and had about 10 inches of travel
the same technique works to reverse a 3 phase motor such as a brushless dc motor, just use it to reverse 2 of the 3 phase wires, this works only for sensorless motors.
Try using air bubbles to reduce the skin drag on the underside of the pontoons, and the underside of the hydrofoil. Cruise-liners have a couple companies they rely on for air entrainment/constraint systems in order to improve fuel economy and reduce fouling (sea creatures chemically and physically bonding with the hull).
Seams like a small hydrofoil on the end of the prop could be tuned to maintain prop depth. I would had thought a 2 stokes higher RPM and torque would had been a better choice for the application - although less environmental -
Fantastic stuff. I really like this project. Hope I can do something similar one day. Looking forward to seeing the addition of the hydrofoils at some point!
The boat's design would make a fantastic base for a small wing in ground effect vehicle. Have you guys ever considered researching that topic? Y'all are one of the few youtubers that could do it justice and perhaps advance the science of it.
I just love the fabrication in this project and the use of actuators, etc, how fun! You demonstrated a propulsion system used on a Russian sub using electrical fields to move water in a channel. Would it be possible to something like that on this boat? Thank you for all the stimulating thought and bringing your thoughts to life.
Watched when you first built the Catamaran and Enjoy all of your work. Can't wait to see your next video and other projects. Have a Great Holiday Season.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I wanted to skip to the interesting part...so I watched the whole video.
Nice.
Me too, so I went back and watched all the videos I haven't yet.
Sad. Feel sorry for you.
Comment of the day Sir.
There is so much to learn from this man.
I'm really liking your content lately. As a fellow professional, your ideas, designs and execution are a1. I know it must be a pain to produce all the videos. But you are providing so much value I just want to thank you for all your hard work.
Sure and thanks for the feedback.
@@TechIngredients Hi, I'm wondering if you'd consider looking at some kind of Laser Rust Remover as a possible DIY project. Take a look at something like this:
th-cam.com/video/ACGSzBXKONo/w-d-xo.html
I've read that such devices can even work effectively with 50W or 100W lasers, and given their obvious utility for so many things, I was wondering if such devices can even be made as a DIY project.
Your proof of concepts are nicer then most people's finished product. Thank you!
Seems like you've got more than enough power in the linear actuator to use a much shorter arm on the rudder. Might be worth it to speed up steering response.
its brobably enough for the gasoline propultion but when he puts on a sail all the power will be needed because there are a few effects that can happen i have expierienced one of them in german it is called "sonnenschuss" this effect happens when wind and wave and current hit the boat at an exact angel and then there is a huge force on the rudder it often even breaks it even on larger yachts so i think the arm is good as it is.
I was thinking the same thing and honestly he can have a variety of sizes to suit his propulsion methods longer arm for sailing shorter for engine or electric.
I think what he meant to say is a lot of force, not a lot of power. That being said. I would shorten the arm.
well he could install another axel on the arm further in so the actuator could be connected on either, but then I think he never wants to turn the boot on the spot either :-)
@@snekmeseht yes that is what i ment
met this channel when you was going over jet engines. Thank you for the wealth of knowledge that I wish I had the time to use
Pay close attention, if the world ends soon this stuff'll be handy. There's a book called Con Nuestros Propios Esfuerzos that is also very useful in "the world ended but we still have buildings" type situations.
@@Teth47 but why would the world end though?
Get wet
Haha same thing 😂
Thank you for explaining things in an understandable, accessible way. The science channel of my childhood (90's-00's) *wishes* it had the quality of content found here.
Thanks!
I think the boat would be more responsive and maneuverable with a faster-acting rudder actuator.
I’m looking forward to seeing the final product.
Not necessarily, at high speed, a gentle touch is what you need, you definitely do not want the rudder to act as a major braking system and loss of control if moved too quickly.
@@ericdelevinquiere9902 For sailing boats you absolutely want that capability. It's the only real braking maneuver you get with that.
Dunno what it's called in English though
But sailing's not high speed, so your point still stands
@@ilikeyourname4807 Sailing is not high speed? Similar to this boat, think of a high performance beach catamaran, scary fast, now add foils, you would smoke this boat. Let's not even talk about ice boats. And yes, just a minor adjustment of the helm and they turn like a Formula 1.
Just make a clamp with a screw upwards and u could adjust the leverage and test it out...
If they find they need or want faster response, it is just a matter of bringing the pivot on the lever arm of the rudder closer to the rudder pivot.
So impressed with your flexible and deep thought designs. Thanks to your team!
i feel like the rudder system is not responsive enough. but that's just one guys opinion. i feel like the pully system might be a nice removable alternative
That's what I was thinking! And what if you run out of battery power and you still have gas for the engine? Then your boat is uncontrollable! Or what if you lose an actuator due to a failure, then you have no backup if you're out in the middle of a big lake, for instance. A pulley system would be something to think about adding as a reliable backup or as a replacement for the actuators altogether.
Battery could be charged from the motor if it has a charging or lighting generator? but a smaller lead cell battery or gel cell battery may give more battery life? worst case a paddle can be used for steering :P Also if he wants a faster movement of the rudders a shorter throw lever on the rudder can accomplish that, just saying.
@@nyxkeres8597 Well in this case the motor does not have electrical output, seeing as it's a swamp motor. If you would want to charge your battery from the motor you'd need to install a generator on it. And as this motor does not have an accessory gear box, you'd need some construction to build it onto the driveshaft, in between the propeller and the motor output shaft, which would be a pretty difficult task. Not to mention the added weight on a supposedly lightweight catamaran ;)
The boat will be quite slow, so there’s no need for fast response 👍
Electric actuators don’t give tactile feedback to the pilot. Its gonna be harder to “feel” the boat.
I've been a fan of the Thai long tail from the time I first saw one in the Philippines. Keep things as simple as possible but not simpler, said Einstein. Beauty!
Any concerns with the rudder being so slow? Given boats natural delayed reaction when it comes to turning I feel like this could be a problem area.
under sail you could get stuck "in irons" the large dead zone catamarans have pointing into the wind.
Another great video. You are an incredible thinker-doer. Rare to find someone so intelligent that also can fabricate. Very talented and impressive.
Really well explained. Had no idea how a Thai drive worked - never mind that it works so well - but I do now! Excellent channel. Five stars... again!
This is the only TH-cam channel where I will drop everything to watch every upload. As a young engineer, you are inspirational. Thank you.
I remember when you guys had 20k+ subs. Damn. 500k soon. Well deserved. Looking forward to 1M. :) Thanks, Mr. Wizard.
Thank you a lot for running such an interesting channel. The depth of knowledge in different fields that you show is astounding :)
I replaced an old gasoline engine on my sailboat to an electric this spring. I had just the same type of forward-neutral-reverse switch mounted on a wired controller (not for steering in my case, but for engine rotation direction). But when we accidentally dropped the controller on deck, with the switch taking the impact, it got stuck in neutral, rendering the engine inoperable. Being a sailboat we could go to a sheltered bay and make a repair, but on a boat without redundancy propulsion, or if the boat can't be maneuvered with the switch broken (like if it controls the rudder). It goes to show how much a small little button affects the operation of the boat.
This guy is seriously my hero! I wish to aspire to be: "so cool that I can explain highly technical details in 30 minute videos and even get 6 second attention span millennials to pay attention!"
millennials are like 30-35
If you aspire to be "cool", move to the Artic, that should satisfy you. 🏔️
I am building an electric drive for my 65' live aboard proa with a very similar shaft/prop arrangement. All home built of course. I got a few useful tips from your video regarding the balance of the prop in the water. Thnx!
Sweet, great project. I wonder if you'll find that linear actuator is too slow to steer the boat fast enough at top speed?
Mike Clarke it might make an interesting video! My uneducated guess is they'll need very little movement in the rudders to steer at top speed.
Yeah I'd like to see how this pans out. I had a similar actuator on a power wheels truck and it was terrible. The worst part is it locks the steering, so if you want to manually override you have to disconnect it.
Way too slow. There is also no feedback whatsoever.
@@firstmkb Yes, the faster you go the less rudder deflection required. But the response time on this system will be very slow. Without feedback you will have to respond after you start veering off course, then you will have to straighten the rudder before you get back on course to ovoid overshooting (which will be nearly impossible). They will be endlessly chasing a straight course.
I predict that they will remove the linear actuators and replace with a proper tiller system using push-pull rods and a tiller, like a typical beach cat uses. It would be equally easy to set up and break down as the linear actuators, and infinitely more appropriate for a vessel that should be able to achieve more than a couple knots of speed.
May end up shorting the steering arm as an iterative step.
Superb content, in such diverse fields. Certainly, one of my favourite channels, watching all your videos. Thank you so much for the brilliant teaching, logical thinking, and so well explained!
You and I are so similar. It's unfortunate that we live on opposite ends of the country, I would have enjoyed meeting you and trading ideas. Love your work!
Technical but very easy for anyone to understand. Excellent job and ill be waiting for the next video. Thank you for all your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
I don't know much about boats but my gut feeling tells me I'd want faster actuators for the rudders in order to get a quicker response, what's your take on control speed here?
We can increase that speed with voltage and by trading force for speed. We'll see.
@@TechIngredients you mean we'll sea
I'm wondering what happens to the motors when they inevitably get soaked...
Just a thought. It may be easier to navigate if you wire the double throw switch transverse at the top of the bar, removed from the potted driver assembly. Then again, your thumb may have greater range of motion offset from the central axis of your palm. Anyways, love your content as always. Best engineering channel on TH-cam, can't wait till you guys cross that million sub count.
As always, both educational and fun videos. I've learnt much from your channel.
Two questions: how do you keep the two rudders synchronized and not get out of step with each other, and will the rudders respond fast enough for all practical sailing scenarios?
There is no synchronization mechanism, but they can be resyncronized by pushing them to either end stop.
had the question as well. Also, i think that returning the rudders to neutral position is going to be a challenge... all that seems like a very uncontrollable boat.
Been a fan for two years now and you guys keep out doing yourself. Wish I had watched since the beginning 🤦♂️ love from Cali
INSANE gap between the speaking volume to the music
03:06 annoying plosive.
Do you need someone to do an audio post-production? I can handle that
ofir.gaash@gmail.com
I suggest they cut the song out, throw up a quick logo and call it a day. I don't come here for the music.
Couldn't get a minute into it, damn shame too.
Yeah, speech volume is OK but music volume should be brought down to match.
Like in every video on the internet or on tv. Why is everyone doing this? Just turn the damn music down pls!
Thanks for the ridiculous amount of hard work you all put into this channel. Everything you all do is spectacular!
One always learns a lot of new things on your channel! I left a couple suggestions for projects on the patreon page! One about a DIY Digital Micromirror Device laser projector (worlds best projector, in addition to the best speakers), and another about a DIY heat recovery ventilation system (a continuation of the climate control videos). It would be very interesting to know if you find these projects feasible/interesting. Many thanks for your great work!
MEMS are crazy stuff, better to buy something in my opinion. Once done with all these other projects lol, i would definetly love more of the Dessicant AC series (perhaps make more modular + contanerized, diy fans, etc) !
i would like to see something liek a full body bio suit. something...sifi ish!
@@ericlotze7724 It sure seems complex with Digital Micromirror Devices, but if it is at all feasible to make DIY project, then it is something on the level of Tech Ingredients team. :)
Fantastic presentation of a superb project from an exquisite channel. This is what the internet is for!
"We Went Back In Time Because Our Boat Goes Faster..."
Now that woulda been impressive ;-)
They've got to get it up to 88 mph first.
@@outputcoupler7819 - Marty got a push from a train on land.
- on water a helping hand from aliens...ehm.. the swamp-gas
@@outputcoupler7819 Actually they have to live at 88 Moscow road & yes moscow also=88. Doesn't anyone actually know what 88 is from, geez louise this simulation so many built in blind spot programs. Look up HAUHET & HEH who is also called KEK the frog guy from Egypt it's why people talk about Q & QA.... If only people could read hieroglyphs lol oh well maybe in the next run of the simulation you'll improve.
@@johnmastroligulano7401 Well...that was certainly not the expected response.
Are you a rogue chatbot or just off your meds?
@@outputcoupler7819 Perfect example thank you hence the fake name & image which=fear this is understandable like your quick diversion to personal ad hominem lol classic tropes along with the reverse psychology like Russia gate or the deep state is after me or the media is fake which of course it is that doesn't make them all not part of the same act. No I don't watch wrestling thinking it's real either but hey you do you right .
A really nice project. I will never build one but very pleasurable to watch. Some of the ideas you develop, the way you build things may actually end up in something I make. Your solutions are so neat. Thanks for all.
You're welcome!
Lovely content, as always!
Will you share some of your machining magic at some point?
As an engineering student this is one of my favorite channels, keep up the great work! Side note: "NACA" is an acronym, like ASCII or NASA, so it can be pronounced as a word.
I just realised that your channel icon was a vinil disc in it's player - I used to think it was a cd smoking a blunt!
It is actually a HDD disk platter with the read/write head. This is what it looks like with the case removed. It is interesting what different people see when they are all looking at the same thing eh?
It's a hard drive. I don't think a record would be a very appropriate icon for this channel, do you? Also, it's "vinyl".
What's interesting is that hard disk technology has changed enough that spinning drives aren't necessarily what people think of anymore when you say hard disk. Everyone understands the meaning of the save icon used in most programs, but a whole generation has been born since 3.5" floppy disks were in common use.
@@peglor Floppy disks and this are two different things. Being born after something doesn't mean anything. Wanting to gain knowledge does. Every computer sold nowadays has HDD's in them. Unless you pay extra for a SSD.
@@flexopuppy If you consider phones and tablets to be computers, which I do given that they are, then solid state memory is already in more common use by more people than spinning HDDs.
On most laptops at this stage unless you only look at very low end ones, you get an SSD by default even on the bottom of the range. Bigger/gaming laptops sometimes still have a spinning disk for long term and high volume storage, but boot from SSD.
Datacentres are probably the last big hold out for spinning drives, and even those, depending on the cost/benefit data are moving to solid state drives.
What I find more interesting is the storage methods that were used really early in the development of computers - this is a particularly unusual example: th-cam.com/video/2BIx2x-Q2fE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Numberphile
Very nice and informative video, thanks! I am the guy doing the Bris 430 solar inflatable. I may end up doing a hybrid design with a gas engine for extra speed to get to point a and b. I think, definitely if I want to be able to plane and determine I need 20hp +. Boat rated to 30hp. But the Elco 9.9 electric doesn't take too much power and is competitively priced to the equivalent gas. The 20+ hp Elco's are a lot more expensive than gas and draw too much electrical power to be effective for me, I think. The boat is also rated to 1980lb load, just don't want to exceed 1500lb as I could still float without a real problem ect. If I lose one of my 6 individual chambers and even part of another one. I am also going to look into getting a regular 4 stroke gas engine and see what is available for a vertical transom mount adapter. I've seen the long mud motor adapters, like you have here, but not a vertical version?
intro music sounds like mcgyver!
Too soon
Lasse Lyx - good look
If you mean loud...
If there's a better engineering channel on TH-cam then I don't think I've seen it
LOUD NOISES!!!!! (plz normalise the audio a bit)
yeah I'm a few seconds in and the just music insanely loud
Yeah, in agreement, loud even for my getting deaf ears.
I have some dynamic headphones and wow that was loud at the start. Far too loud. Made me flinch.
Yeah, the music was too loud
we all know what this is about. there's no useful information in the wasteful first long 6 seconds. i vote for exorcism of the aggression so as to enjoy the meal part right away. OR PEASE REMOVE THE SOUND TRACK OF STRESS during those 6 seconds for peace.
So Cool, though that rudder looks a bit slow to use at fast speed in crowded waters. Specifically the return rate for that boat size should be around 1 second or less. You may want to shorten its torque arm if you want the actuators. I would use 2 springs and 2 cables, one pre-tensioned spring on each rudder in opposite directions to keep center and a cable to both rudders from a central steering wheel or bar. Maybe use pressure activated torque as a power steering option. Thus if you ever use this hull with a more powerful motor you will have enough steering response.
Love your content but I believe the music volume is excessive.
wHAT????? WHAAAAAAT?? I CANT HEAR YOU!
Yes, it's fun to jam out to. But the talking portion needs to match a little closer.
I wish more video players had Dynamic Range Compression. It's great for bringing the sounds together on the same "level". I know the vlc player can do this.
Yeah, I have to agree. The intro music was too loud, coming from another YT video I got blasted. Then once the intro was over I had to turn up the volume to understand him better.
I use those actuators for web steering applications.
The one I use is the same size, and it produces a maximum force of 500N.
It's perfect for working a rudder, they also do not back drive, so when you let go of the steering, the rudder will stay where you left it, and therefore you will be able to trim the boat straight very nicely in a crosswind.
Nice video and project, I like it.
Kind regards,
Duncan, South Africa
I was excited that I was one of the first people watching the video. Then I realized I had nothing clever to comment.
🤙🏼
Great fun watching these boat building videos. Thank you for all your hard work. I know you guys are having fun.
long time listener, first time caller :)
just fyi, it's KNOTS when you're on a boat, not mph or meters/sec.
OK, maybe for you rocket scientists, meters/sec IS appropriate.
you know i'm just teasing :) good stuff as always !!!
Indeed, but it is also good to say as most people don't even know the conversion.
I can convert knots to MPH, but it won't metric in my head. I get as far as 3.6 kiloseconds per hour, then I find something else I'd rather be doing.
I am tempted to slide in parsecs, but there are too many decimals.
@@TechIngredients @Kevin Bauer @wobbly sauce
I humbly suggest we follow protocol; we should go back to fundamental units, such as the ones used to express how much 'ux' is in a Flux Capacitor:
knot-second-mole
per
coulomb-meter^2-ounce
🤔🙄😏😂😂😂
Problem solved :P
Tremendeous! I love the real life and reason based approach to solving problems.
INTRO WAY TOO LOUD!!!
Predator 212. Best bargain around. Replaced motor on my 30 yr old tiller for $129. Better than new.
You are getting lots of comments on the rudders from several folks who sound like they know what they are talking about.my comment is just on the location of the battery for the actuator’s. I strongly recommend a housing for the battery that’s attached to the hull frame. The power cord should be the high strength insulated marine grade cord and it should run through a compression fitting . Since your ability to steer the boat is dependent on that battery the Velcro solution is a possible fail point where you could lose the battery or lose power if a wire pulled loose or short out if a wire was abraded through the insulation. I had an fail on a prototype I was testing last weekend that was similar to this and I spent hours trying to jerry rig a way to steer back to shore. It seems like a very minor thing but those are the things that stop you dead because they get overlooked on a complex prototype build.
Love your channel and I’m looking forward to seeing how the boat goes with the long tail and as a hydrofoil.
BTW you should look at Kippwa power props for your trolling motors to get more speed. They use a 3 blade setup and are pitched more aggressively for speed. That harbor freight motor is cheap but so noisy it would be great to see your boat “fly” with electric power.
🤙🏼🏄🏼♂️
I appreciate your thorough explanation of every detail
Absolute rivetting. I can't believe you hold my attention.
Some multi hull boats now are using partial lift hydrofoils, not designed to fully lift the boat free from the water, just to help the boat not have as much wetted area, and less drag.
I spent some time a couple years ago working on an autonomous surface vehicle to deploy an ROV (project is currently on indefinite hold due to changes in circumstances). I wanted to use electric motors for reliability, but found that designing something with off the shelf parts that can beat a trolling motor's speed is either really difficult, or really expensive.
What I'd settled on for my first prototype that never got built was four T200 thrusters from Blue Robotics. At maximum voltage they give you close to 1HP each (648 W claimed in the datasheet), with a fairly aggressive prop pitch. Total thrust would have only been about 60 pounds, but top speed should have been reasonable. And having four motors gave me the warm fuzzies about reliability.
Might be a solution worth testing on your boat, though yours seems to be much heavier than mine so four might not be enough.
I sail a 18' Hobie Tiger sail catamaran, the only thing I can say is that the rudders seem quite short. On Hobie's the rudders protrudes an extra 1.5' below the hull. Also by linking the rudders with a horizontal tie rod like on a Hobie you would only need a single actuator if you were going to upgrade to a faster actuator.
Good job. I love how you explain everything. I’ve been on a boat in Thailand with one of these. Some of them even use V8 engines balanced. I have seen a few of these in Alaska used to run up rocky river.. On another note, growing up in the 60s my Dad had a cabin in Newark near Center Pond. I fished Bean Brook many times as a kid.
I have a cat. that is powered by an outboard mounted in the same location as your engine. With my rudders hard to port or starboard, still requires approximately 30 yards to turn around. I steer from same location using cable and pulleys. I fear the actuators may be too slow at slower speeds. Love your channel, fantastic presentations, and great content. Best on TH-cam in my opinion. Keep up the great work, you are an inspiration to us all !
Thank you!
Yeah the lightened aluminum looks dope. And I always wondered about those Thai boats. Another question answered by this channel that I wasn’t expecting to ever be answered. There’s only one problem with this channel. There isn’t enough of it!
A wonderfully informative and entertaining video once again. You are a shining example of how to make STEM appealing to the general populace.
I initially started watching the first boat building video because I want to build a sailboat. I'm starting with a scale model, similar to the one you built.
Im fascinated with the direction you're heading.
I'm planning to make a 2 masted boat, one mast in each hull. I'm making a video of it, to be posted later.
Keep up the good work.
Good luck!
Motor drive and rudder control looks great.The thing that does throw some concern my way is that the engine mounted below the deck might catch some water if while on the lake a summer storm would hit.I think it might need some kind of shroud if used in this manner.
Sincerely,Bruce Foster
The extended shaft boat motor, like the outboard, is an American invention. Calle was mass producing them more than a hundred years ago. Long before Thailand ever saw an internal combustion engine. The link below is a video of a 1925 Calle Liberty Twin in action.
In regards to your steering control, there is another option that you didn't mention: push-pull cable. They're available in numerous sizes and load capacities, and can be quickly connected with a clevis. Unlike your current binary control, a push-pull cable permits full proportional control with feedback. This is something that you will want as you go faster.
I'm not a big fan of your single asymmetrical rudder. So far, you've only achieved very low speeds, so any inadequacies in your steering system haven't been a problem, but as you go faster you will not be as happy with your current arrangement. A simple tie rod can be used to connect a second rudder to the first.
th-cam.com/video/aDiXEVO1Vik/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=UpperCanadaChapter-AOMCIAntiqueOutboardMotorClub
Noted that the rudders may be used for different applications such as sail as well, but the switch is mounted to the handle for the gas engine. Perhaps you could go with a deck-mounted rocker so that you can control the rudder with your foot instead? Combined with some waterproof plugs, this would also allow you to permanently install the wiring to prevent damage.
I'm in agreement with others that the velcro mounting for the battery is a bit on the weak side. Can you perhaps go with some larger batteries permanently installed in the pontoons and connected via waterproof connectors to the harness? That way the batteries and harness are always there for rudders, night time nav lights, or whatever else you may want to connect.
Don't let your linear actuators get wet, I used them it was a disaster for me. they are not sealed well. Even rain will get into them and quickly ruin the micro switches. Looking forward to seeing a voyage with this setup 👍👍👍
I thought about that and have a couple of spares. I'm going to take one apart and see if a few improvements can be made to combat water intrusion.
Great work. I really enjoy your content!
If you stepped the motor up to a 420cc predator you could have charging capacity and even better break out power. They only produce 3 amp for charging though. There are other variations available from other brands that have a 18amp charging system option. My daughter has a 420 predator on her 16’ flat bottom and it gets along very well. I know the portability of the motor becomes an issue because the 420 weighs a healthy chunk. A tiny pulley set up to lower it, and some small dolly wheels on the motor end would allow you to move the motor like a dolly. Just an idea...
One more point would be that your steering system looks great and is very inspiring. I do fear it may operate a little slow for some situations and prevent spirited operation of your craft.
I appreciate this boat build and hope to build a similar craft of my own. Thank you sir!
Nice to see another technical video about the boat.
I have been playing with long tail boas for years. I live in the south of Thailand, only just found out why they are mounted on a pin. It is so if you get into trouble you can unmount the engine meaning the boat wont sink. Yes you loose the engine but better then sinking. I use a turbo 4d56 Mitsubishi truck engine. Good times.
Wow, that is really cool!!! I'm concerned about the rudder system though, catamarans are hard to turn compared to monohulls. The electric system is quite slow, but what is more important, the rudders are very short and they have a very small wetted area. You would think one solution would be to design a rudder with a much bigger chord. It may work, but it will need a huge force to steer and what is more important: if you plan to try powering the boat with sails, the steering system will be very stressed by the lateral forces. The way to go in my opinion would be to look at typical rudder designs for sailboats: relatively small chord but a long span that goes under the water. This allows you to steer with very little effort, quickly and in a small radius. Of course there is the problem of hitting the ground with the tips of the rudder if you want to sail from a beach or you encounter shallow waters. Beach catamarans like Hobiecats have rudders that can rotate upwards, but it adds quite a bit of complexity to the system. This is quite an issue, I see why you would like to test the current rudder design, but keep in mind that you probably won’t be able to turn the boat swiftly, and now you have considerable more power and you’ll be able to reach more dangerous speeds!
By the way, I’m looking forward to learning about the process to fabricate the rudders!
Awesome, I love linear actuators!
Loved the previous version of the catamaran, and could tell from the smiles of the people on board and spectators that it was a lot of fun. However, if you are not laughing maniacally sometimes there is definitely something missing from the boating experience! Greatly looking forward to seeing the new iteration in full flight!
Thanks for the wonderful videos. They are unique in the making explicit the detailed thought processes that go into great engineering design, and revealing how endlessly interesting but rewarding and useful engineering is as a vocation.
Thanks!
We're scientists, we have a lot of self control.😋
Were you not concerned with the speed of the linear actuators in the control system? I know this boat is only going to be used in a rather leisurely manner, but quick control of your rudders can be particularly useful in low speed maneuverability like docking and such.
Great project! Can't wait to see it in the water!
An electric motor for steering would have been my last choice. It adds more things that can failure. You need a charged battery even if you run the boat with gas or with wind.
And on top, these motors are a quite slow. So the boat becomes less maneuverable.
That battery will last a very long time. The maximum current draw is less than an amp when running and they rarely run that hard.
Tech Ingredients plus you can have a spare in your pocket!
I've never seen a linear actuator that failed, and I've worked on many many many machines with linear actuators in them.
I've been subscribed for quite some time now, and I have to say that with every video, I'm always in awe of the level of attention paid to the fabrication. I do understand that we may be seeing the result of multiple design and manufacturing iterations, but in any case the quality is top-notch. Hats off to you folks, and I'm looking forward to new projects and videos as they come along!
I would weld motorcycle handles on that "control pipe" where you have indicators to steer left & right. Then I'll use hydraulic or spring on the rear pipe of the motor for up & down (switch on motorcycle handles) to make it easier
Very cool!
So interesting that you'd use an electric actuator on the rudders.
I'm looking forward to seeing how they work out.
Wow looking forward to seeing it on the water and see how it goes God bless you cliff from Australia
The technical information provided are awesome!
You need not worry about having too little details. Your projects are always interesting and you seem to think of nearly every possible problem that we might encounter during the build and as well the operation or function of it. I like the variety too. Even if you do something I am not necessarily a candidate for, I still find it most interesting. Thank you for your channel.
Thanks!
That's why we post them. Not everyone wants to build a boat, but the strategies can be useful.
100$ for that motor? That is insane. It takes more than $100 in energy to build that even if the labor cost is $0. Amazing.
Excited to see the motor power output, and maneuverability!
Totally awesome to see the 4 cycle engine choice. I've been rescuing the made in the U.S., for the most part, engines when I find them since is addicting at free or like $50 or less with more parts to play with... including garden tractors as platforms for a vast array of tools and modifications to go in many places. Recently, I found these mud runners being sold for like 10 grand and more with the Vanguard engines. Literally, was just at the neighbors where I'm working and he has an older Evenrude with U.S. Coast Guard history to go with it outboard engine he wants to get rid of and I told em I'd take it and help him get his other one he wants to keep running reliably. Yeah... crazy... even the Honda's are amazingly reliable for amazing prices where most the time the air filter or carb needs to be cleaned. Maybe the valves needs to be gaped and otherwise... most sell since something more catastrophic has failed that can be observed. Maybe some gaskets are another easy cost effective repair since those can be made with the Permatex products.... Type 2 for the gas exposed intake related. Amazing is, I've purchases three new carbs and after I ordered... I was able to get the originals cleaned and sealed. Unfortunately, the return shipping costs more than the cheapo carbs or maybe in certain situations if I finagle I get like 4-5 dollars refunded for all the hassle. Great detail as always! Thanks for sharing... very awesome!
Takes time to surf around the craigslist, facebook marketplace, offerup and other listings for free or the cost effective since many others are looking for the same... at least in my areas I'll drive to with the Prius. The Vanguards are usually more expensive used. $70 for the 18HP one I scored with a White garden tractor I disassembled what I could fit into the car and that was like a 8hr round trip find to go get.
What a good come back from the last episode on this subject, am excited again!
"part of the reason we wanted to do this is I thought it'd be fun" words to live by
Man, you guys are my Discovery Channel(from back when it was about science and not reality TV)
THANK YOU for sharing your projects with us.
BTW, good job on the new intros.
I've been designing and building parts of my catamaran too but mine is smaller and more portable. I'm thinking of using such a long tail design too, but I will be mounting a relatively small electric motor in each hull so steering is accomplished by changing the power to each side.
Add two short downward facing fins to the shaft rudder to help pull the propeller down. It will help with cavitation. Go devil motors have a nice design
so happy to hear miles and kilometers but no KNOTS - this is boating for land people !
Those rudder actuators are the same drive motors that are inside electric recliner chairs and couches… I’ve collected many of them over the years from disposed couches and chairs. I made a dump trailer for my Atv using one that had the highest newtons of force that I could find… i think it was marked 2500 newtons, when the average chair motor was around only around 12 to 1500 so this one was quite beefy lol it was already powered by a 12v supply that normally plugged into a home receptacle so I just eliminated the converter/transformer. It required about 5 amps so I didn’t bother wiring it to my Atv battery… that would be too harsh on my stator and small battery so i used a separate car battery and kept it on a tender. The trailer was quite handy. It could lift and dump around 500lbs and had about 10 inches of travel
the same technique works to reverse a 3 phase motor such as a brushless dc motor, just use it to reverse 2 of the 3 phase wires, this works only for sensorless motors.
Try using air bubbles to reduce the skin drag on the underside of the pontoons, and the underside of the hydrofoil. Cruise-liners have a couple companies they rely on for air entrainment/constraint systems in order to improve fuel economy and reduce fouling (sea creatures chemically and physically bonding with the hull).
Seams like a small hydrofoil on the end of the prop could be tuned to maintain prop depth.
I would had thought a 2 stokes higher RPM and torque would had been a better choice for the application - although less environmental -
Fantastic stuff. I really like this project. Hope I can do something similar one day. Looking forward to seeing the addition of the hydrofoils at some point!
The boat's design would make a fantastic base for a small wing in ground effect vehicle. Have you guys ever considered researching that topic? Y'all are one of the few youtubers that could do it justice and perhaps advance the science of it.
We haven't, but you're probably right. It's worth some thought.
I'm looking forward to seeing how the hydrofoil works. Thanks for posting.
Looking forward to see it on hydrofoils,
Congratulations for your videos you guys are doing a fantastic work
I just love the fabrication in this project and the use of actuators, etc, how fun! You demonstrated a propulsion system used on a Russian sub using electrical fields to move water in a channel. Would it be possible to something like that on this boat? Thank you for all the stimulating thought and bringing your thoughts to life.
I enjoyed your update. I'm still waiting for sails!
The switch wiring tip is super handy. thanks.
Thank you, I always look forward to learning new things when I watch your videos.
Great videos, thank you for sharing, looking forward to the test ride!!!
Watched when you first built the Catamaran and Enjoy all of your work. Can't wait to see your next video and other projects. Have a Great Holiday Season.