N54 8HP70 Controller First TEST Power Up In Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- N54 8HP70 Controller First TEST Power Up In Car
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I think the n55 oil priming procedure should work, 10-second crank with fuel disabled and 20-second rest, repeat 3 times. Great work, the thought of moving would make me push this build, really appreciate the hard work.
Exactly. That's what TIS tells you to do
Very impressive. I'm happy that my car's got the DCT and not the 6HP autobox, otherwise I'd be forced into this mod ;)
Shit if it's started by the time I wake up that's a huge win!! Godspeed 😤
got your PM but im still here! Love it man insperational
When i first started my built S55 i manually cranked it for 2-3 ~10 sec periods while monitoring oil pressure and it got pressure fairly quickly so should be fine :) (Without spark plugs)
I also fill some oil in the oil filter housing to help out with "pre-fill"
Thanks for the re-assurance!
The master himself spoke to us. We are not worthy! We are not worthy!
Looks good, put oil in and start that thing. Dont forget the top driveshaft bolt😉. 8HPs can suck up a lot of fluid from that pump so yes final fill is at 40deg C, BUT it is best as soon as you start it to put a couple more liters in right away to the trans so the pump won't run dry. Congrats mate
Your E84 X1 8HP shifter idea is genius. Those cars are great donors for us e9x boys especially for interior bits!
Thanks man! I think it’s actually going work.
Pretty sure it is ONLY 2013 year X1 if you want it to have the single PT CAN system
@@igotaction good to know
can feel your excitement
when i primed my n54 after working on it for a few weeks right after buying it (all oil gaskets and coolant lines with a manual chemical valve cleaning) i had all the injectors and coils still unplugged. the fuel rail lines were bone dry up to the hpfp b/c of the vcg job. i filled it up with cheap 5w40 castrol, bled coolant and did 5x 10 second cranks with 30 second rest in between before i re connected everything. the rail still didnt have fuel in it after all of that lmao and i had to do the crank procedure 3 more times before she fired up with no issues. i drove her around for about 100 kms below 2k rpms and changed the oil to molygen 5w40 with a new filter since you have to anyways after doing a chemical clean on the valves. been about 1000 kms since then and all is good.
Shit is about to get real. Loving this Andrew! Pity I'm stuck in Dalby otherwise I would come down and give a hand (as a camera man😉). Best of luck bud
Wow, big congrats Adrew! I think 3 times 5 sec crank should be good. The assembly lube is doing its job until the oil is all over the bearings. No worries! Dutch regards, Nico.
Can’t wait to see her run I love the aluminum trans pan looks great
When i did my n54, i attached an oil pressure gauge to make sure, but couldn't get any pressure with just the starter motor even after a few tries. Found that pouring some oil through the oil filter housing helped the oil pump get started. just my 2c. best of luck!
So much going on im exciiiiiiiiited!!!
good GOD JUST shifting from park to neutral is giving me the CHILLZ :)
Killin it! OnePlus phone as well.... What a nerd. ❤️
no no, iphone city over here.
@@ZeroTo60Tube my eyes deceive me. Loving the content, great work on the channel legend 👌
Almost ready! I would fill what you can in the oil filter housing and the cooler, definitely don’t want an air pocket. Not having plugs will make it a lot easier on the starter.
You've got this man! This is awesome
😂 Made me chuckle when you realised the shifter wasn't plugged in
Following this swop every step.
I’m exited for the fist thrash video and roll racing hoping the engine holds together. I believe it will. 👍👍👍👍
You’re a madman
Woah, that’s so exciting. Can’t wait to see the first pull!!!
Exciting/nervous...... same same
Im as nervous as you! im currently finishing up my build too! next step would be built engine and a bigger transmission so keen to see how she turns out!
Can’t wait to see this run. Am sure you’ve built it well but am keeping my fingers crossed 🤞🏼.
So many things could have gone wrong.
Great stuff N54 TEAM
Hell yeah dude. Actually pressy easy way to do the pressure sensor. Put in a resistance based oil pressure sensor. Give it ground and hook up the signal and ground to a multimeter and reference the resistance read to the voltage meter and chart thats listed on the sensor you will know your oil pressure. Easy way to do your oil pressure so you are not over-priming ( not issue with the engine more the starter). So just do that. You can pick up any pressure sender locally that has a readout. They are linear output. The VDO ones are like 10-160 ohms and linear
n54s have a priming process where you do something like break break gas gas blah blah don’t have to touch injectors or spark or anything to prime it after like changes etc etc. just do a quick search and you’ll find it I used it when I installed my 19ts.
I had a little Lauch when you said, the turbolamik tcu connects to the shifter....oh theshifter isn't connected 😅 i felt so bad when you said oh the shifter doesn't work...but super great work so far!
This is getting exciting!
next vedio have a great fun bro fingers crossed 🤞
To prime the motor, disconnect ignition coils, disconnect injectors, turn the motor over 10 times, let the car rest for 10 seconds. Repeat that process 3 times. Check for leaks in between each cycle!
!!!!! Yea baby Yea!!!!
The white plug in the dme box the same one that has the signal wire for the starter can be unplugged it controls the fuel pump as well
Your plan to prime the oil in the engien is great, only other thing I'd suggest would be pull the fuses for the fuel pumps, you don't want them running as well. Just remember you've got about 500ks to break new rings in these days, hard runs with heavy loads is usually best to get them seated (doing pulls to 5k with your foot hard on the brakes at the same time, for example).
Once you're confident, you have pressure, before starting it walk away for a minute, then double check your oil level. Priming it will fill the filter housing, which holds about half a litre, so top it back up then go for gold. Plug the fuel pumps back in, give it another prime before hooking coils up. You want oil and fuel pressure before trying to start it, so it fires straight away.
Dude really appreciate that post!
Also you should be able to built like pressure in 10/15seconds of cranking id do 2 15s or 3 10s personally before starting, that’s completely up to you more the better I guess? but I wouldn’t do less then that personally.
Give her the beans!!
E90s usually take about 12 minutes to go to sleep. Since you have a different shifter I don't know exactly how you'd know if the car is fully asleep. But on the stock 6hp shifter once the little orange light indicating the position of the lever has turned off the car is completely asleep. Maybe then your turbo lamik screen will turn off.
Thanks for the info!
i have an oil accumulator that primes the engine before every cold start. it also oils the turbo on deceleration. have yet to burn this gen 2 6266 up in almost 4 years of daily abuse.
Remove your oil fill cap and crank until you see oil enter the cylinder head....or Remove a oil cooler hose end and crank till oil shoots out into a container then tighten the line back up and crank for 10 seconds just to make sure oil has reached the rotating assembly.
3x 10sec cranks 15-20 seconds between each and you’ll be fine. They prime much faster than you’d be led to believe
Prime the engine with 4 5 second cranks with the plugs out that’s enough to build oil pressure and send it through the turbos head and all the oil passages in the block
Your oil prime should be fine bmw oem process is less! If you really wanted to be sure just open up your oil filter and check that it’s full after you run your primming.
live first start would be cool
In regards to oil pressure
Oil pressure your know about as when you first start a built engine “ big Laugh 😂 “ it will sound like a hammer and tongs, just leave it to idle, it will pump oil up and around, no reving, within 5-8min the engine will quiter down and become normal sounding,
Most of the tapping will be the top end, normal before you close the top up with a cam cover just drizzle oil all over the cams and buckets
Unplug the injectors/pull the fuse for the fuel pumps
shouldnt need to pull the fuel pump fuse if the injectors are disconnected surely?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Shouldn't have to no. That was just for either or. Which ever you felt safer doing.
Awesome .
disable ccc ⚠️ warning message with Carly
Hurry up and get this done already I’m in pain with anticipation! I’m excited for this build so much. I definitely want to do a zf8hp swap. And make sure your put oil in the engine and prime all the systems. I’d turn spark off the coils and take off the injectors plugs. Prime it about 3-4 times. check for leaks and weird sounds . Reconnect and give her a start. I’d check everything twice before you start tho. Trans fluid, oil, coolant, having spare spark plugs and coils don’t hurt either. When you start keep it on the lift and obvious go through all the gears and check trans fluid
hey man sorry for asking so many questions but am also working on an 8hp70 swap in my e91 335i i also bought an x1 shifter but it only has 8 pins and cant find a schematic for the 8pins anywhere how did you do this with best regards swen
hey man you need the vin from the x1 and the wiring diagram from newtis. unfortunately and you will find out eventually i dont currently have my laptop
Does anyone know what code 21 would be I'm going mad trying to figure it out short to ground speed sensor 2
I wonder if that aluminium trans pan also fits the zf8hp in the 328i f30?
It does. I think anyway. Looks like all 8hp use the same pan.
If you have the time to stream the process on like twitch or something that works be cool
Please check that the paddles of the steering wheel are still working correctly?
You can’t actually shift until the car is running with the lamik.
Put Oil in it... Prime it for 3 - 5 times.. Make sure you have a fully charged battery.... And make sure you have Spark plugs in bro .. like just have faith
Did you use moly assembly lube or ATF on bearings? Looking for 8HP. You have inspired me. Great channel.
I actually used proper engine assembly lube.
So the guibo is rubber? so theres a rubber piece holding the trans to the driveshaft?
Correct.
Hi,
Doing the same swap in my e60 535d. Do the lamik only connect to the 6hp plug ? Or do you also connect to k can for instrument cluster? :) i want gear indicators also!
Lamik will do the harness to suit your setup. But I believe it will all be through the 6hp for hours too.
Is that transmission plug and play for a 2008 550i e60?
not plug and play, but you can fit a 8hp to a 550i relatively easy. You need to look up n63 8hp70. That transmission with a turbo lamik or cantcu will work.
Any leads on how I can order my turbo lamik kit? Their website shows under construction?
Which country are you based in? They have a few resellers about now.
I am in Texas! We try to separate ourselves from United States!!! 🤣
Remember to check the bolt 😊
Which bolt?
@@ZeroTo60Tube trans bolt
Top driveshaft bolt
Hey Andrew, what was the deal in the end with the Lamik screen staying on with the ignition off? Did you find out? Cheers!
They stay on for a little while. Between 30 and 60 seconds after ignition turns off. However with the e9x intergration it depends on what the car is doing. Also unlocking the car turns the lamik on, so it is an anomoly on these installs.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hey Andrew! Thanks for the reply. I found the issue. The canbus was set to a standard bmw shifter and I’m using a sequential dct shifter, I just changed the canbus settings to off for shifter and it’s now ok, turns off after the 30 seconds you described. Nice!
What about the speedometer is it going to read correctly as the ratios is different from the 6HP and its final drive
Speed in most 2000 onward BMW is taken from the right rear wheel speed sensor. Which on an open diff model is the one that spins first.
Shifter mounting bracket where can I get one?
Start with google. Heaps of places sell them now
Where did you find the transmission bracket? What bmw does it come from? I’ve tried looking it up and can’t find it
I mention it in the video. Its a e90 330d. A bracket from a 6hp26
@@ZeroTo60Tube okay thank you. Thought it was the 6hp28
@@nickboyco2666 I couldn't find a 6hp28 in a e90..... however getting info on diesels is hard being in Aus. That said, a case for a 6hp26 and 28 look to be the same. But a 6hp28 in a 5 series has a different bracket,
did you use assembly lube on the bearings and other moving parts of the engine when you assembled it? if so just crank the engine over for like 5-10 seconds with injectors unplugged.
A lot of assembly lube tbh
@@ZeroTo60Tube just send it, the oil is going to pump really quickly and it pretty much always has a small delay upon start up till the oil pressure comes up its relying on the residual film of oil. fun fact in an f1 engine the tolerances are so tight the engine is locked up and they need to pump pre heated oil through it so everything expands and it can move freely
id even argue that the longer an engine spends not running and just cranking over the longer it takes for the oil to circulate through
"Weebo"? If I heard you right-I am an American southerner so I usually follow dialects, but I think you were pointing at what we call "flex plate" here in the states. Or was it something else?
Guibo close tho. We do also call them flex discs
how code 33 was erase? i have it and i cant erase
It will need a properly setup canbus connection to the engine ECU. Or turn ecu canbus off.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i dont have canbus on my ECU i's an old Supra
@@SUpExtaZ34 Your turbolamaik dealer will help you setup the base map or checkout the turbo lamik forun for instructions
Woooooo
First before bed