It was intimidating at first, but thankfully we had some help! This time around we did it on our own and it went really well. It does seem like there's a lot of different ways to get it done! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching. You should be able to get sound without adding back speakers. You would either need to splice into the door speakers or have the "rear speakers" connections for to the subwoofer. I'm not an expert so cannot guarantee it will work but I feel good about it.
Thanks for watching! I'd love to hear it if you do. My buddy was trying to get me to do 2 12s built into the walls but we went with the easy route since we aren't bumping like I used to.
First off, thanks for the video, I subbed. Appreciate the help. About to pull the trigger on this same setup. Im still trying to wrap my head around the complete installation steps, so sorry if I make a mistake. I do not have the wires for the van rear in the column like you do, I have a 2014 promaster. I also have an aftermarket radio which likely does not limit power so no LC2 needed. So, as for cables and connections I think I will need: * A 4 awg wire connection from the battery (positive and negative) to the amp / sub unit with a 30 amp fuse * 2 RCA cables (any comment on types I need to buy or is any OK?) from my amp / sub to my stereo. I will run these manually. My aftermarket stereo has 2 low-range outputs for this, it appears. Why two cables? Is that all? I see in some installs of other subs they have a remote / amp on/off wire on the radio they connect to as well. Is this necessary with the JL sub? What controls the on/off? Sorry for so many questions, I'm a complete novice to audio setups!
Hi Grant. It looks like you're on the right track. Just verify that your wiring is thick enough and fused properly for your distance and power. I think the JL manual had it in there. I believe the 2 RCA's are one for the left and one for the right channel. I personally try to buy nicer stuff but I'm sure any will suffice. The JL can be set to power on by connecting through the speaker wires (I did that because the stock head unit doesn't have a remote wire connection). I would rather connect via remote, which the speaker also has a switch to do, because it currently turns on when you open the doors instead of going on and off with the radio. Let us know how it goes! I think the vans and this speaker are a fairly easy install.
Thanks for the video. Almost nothing on TH-cam for this. How did you run the wires to the battery so that you can still put the battery cover on securely?
Thanks for watching! I was able to snake it under the floor and into the battery compartment. It took a little effort to find the right path but it's doable with a little patience.
What did you do about the remote on/off. It looks like the way you wired it the sub would always be powered on. Aftermarket head units have the remote on/off as a wire on the harness. Btw very helpful video. Especially showing the location of that speaker break out. I would not have know that was there without you video.
Thanks for the comment. This sub has options for the turn on mode. It kicks on any time that we turn on the van.....or open a door. It has worked fine for us without running a remote wire to the ignition.
Did you splice it the same way as we did? Ours was spliced to the rear speaker wires in the pillar. If you used those, did you change the head unit to push power to rear speakers? That might be the issue. There is also 2 settings on the sub. One for connecting with RCAs and one for tapping speaker wires. Make sure you have the correct setting there. You may need to get professionals involved if everything is connected properly and you're still having issues.
Hi Kashi. Thank you for watching! We are extremely happy with the sound quality that this little speaker puts out. With that said, it's an 8" sub so it won't be as deep or hurt your ears as two 12's would (obviously). It's clean and is amazing if you're not looking to "bump". I hope that helps. This is our 2nd one and I would not hesitate to buy it again. I've always lived JL.
Thanks for watching. Some stereos drop out the bass as the volume increases. The LC2 is supposed to allow you to adjust for that so you get quality results at all volumes.
@@DrifterJourney Thanks for the reply! I saw that part of the video after I commented, oops! I just dont see people using this for other under seat sub installs (like the kicker, etc). Have you ever tried without it? Did you feel it was necessary? Its pushing my budget a bit too high. Also curious how you adjust the level of the sub? I see you can get a remote level switch that you can mount. A bit pricy at $50 for a switch but curious how you deal with this while driving?
I have not tried without it. My buddy is a big car audio guy and he told me not to skip it. I imagine it would be fine without it but he gave me it for free (and helped with the install on our first van). The remote switch is pricey for what it is but definitely is worth it if you're wanting to adjust the level easily.
I've always loved doing my own audio installs. 20 years after my first install...i'm still learning "the right way" to do things. 😂
It was intimidating at first, but thankfully we had some help! This time around we did it on our own and it went really well. It does seem like there's a lot of different ways to get it done! Thanks for watching!
If I'm not putting speakers on the back can I get to sound to the subwoofer from the pillar it self by plugin in?
Thanks for watching. You should be able to get sound without adding back speakers. You would either need to splice into the door speakers or have the "rear speakers" connections for to the subwoofer. I'm not an expert so cannot guarantee it will work but I feel good about it.
@@DrifterJourney Thanks for answering! I'll keep you posted
Dope…I want to install 4 12s in mine in the rear.
Thanks for watching! I'd love to hear it if you do. My buddy was trying to get me to do 2 12s built into the walls but we went with the easy route since we aren't bumping like I used to.
First off, thanks for the video, I subbed. Appreciate the help. About to pull the trigger on this same setup.
Im still trying to wrap my head around the complete installation steps, so sorry if I make a mistake. I do not have the wires for the van rear in the column like you do, I have a 2014 promaster. I also have an aftermarket radio which likely does not limit power so no LC2 needed.
So, as for cables and connections I think I will need:
* A 4 awg wire connection from the battery (positive and negative) to the amp / sub unit with a 30 amp fuse
* 2 RCA cables (any comment on types I need to buy or is any OK?) from my amp / sub to my stereo. I will run these manually. My aftermarket stereo has 2 low-range outputs for this, it appears. Why two cables?
Is that all? I see in some installs of other subs they have a remote / amp on/off wire on the radio they connect to as well. Is this necessary with the JL sub? What controls the on/off?
Sorry for so many questions, I'm a complete novice to audio setups!
Hi Grant. It looks like you're on the right track. Just verify that your wiring is thick enough and fused properly for your distance and power. I think the JL manual had it in there. I believe the 2 RCA's are one for the left and one for the right channel. I personally try to buy nicer stuff but I'm sure any will suffice. The JL can be set to power on by connecting through the speaker wires (I did that because the stock head unit doesn't have a remote wire connection). I would rather connect via remote, which the speaker also has a switch to do, because it currently turns on when you open the doors instead of going on and off with the radio. Let us know how it goes! I think the vans and this speaker are a fairly easy install.
Thanks for the video. Almost nothing on TH-cam for this. How did you run the wires to the battery so that you can still put the battery cover on securely?
Thanks for watching! I was able to snake it under the floor and into the battery compartment. It took a little effort to find the right path but it's doable with a little patience.
What did you do about the remote on/off. It looks like the way you wired it the sub would always be powered on. Aftermarket head units have the remote on/off as a wire on the harness. Btw very helpful video. Especially showing the location of that speaker break out. I would not have know that was there without you video.
Thanks for the comment. This sub has options for the turn on mode. It kicks on any time that we turn on the van.....or open a door. It has worked fine for us without running a remote wire to the ignition.
Not sure why on my audio controls it shows RL RR open ?
Thanks for watching. That's odd. I'm not sure why it would be doing that either. Is everything working?
@@DrifterJourney unfortunately I have no sound coming out of my sub. Front speakers are still working but I can’t get the sub to work.
Did you splice it the same way as we did? Ours was spliced to the rear speaker wires in the pillar. If you used those, did you change the head unit to push power to rear speakers? That might be the issue. There is also 2 settings on the sub. One for connecting with RCAs and one for tapping speaker wires. Make sure you have the correct setting there. You may need to get professionals involved if everything is connected properly and you're still having issues.
Nice video! How happy are you with the audio quality of the woofer?
Hi Kashi. Thank you for watching! We are extremely happy with the sound quality that this little speaker puts out. With that said, it's an 8" sub so it won't be as deep or hurt your ears as two 12's would (obviously). It's clean and is amazing if you're not looking to "bump". I hope that helps. This is our 2nd one and I would not hesitate to buy it again. I've always lived JL.
@@DrifterJourney Thanks for the reply! This looks like a great option, especially considering there is no need to replace the head unit :)
Exactly - that a huge plus!
what is the LC2 for?
Thanks for watching. Some stereos drop out the bass as the volume increases. The LC2 is supposed to allow you to adjust for that so you get quality results at all volumes.
@@DrifterJourney Thanks for the reply! I saw that part of the video after I commented, oops! I just dont see people using this for other under seat sub installs (like the kicker, etc). Have you ever tried without it? Did you feel it was necessary? Its pushing my budget a bit too high. Also curious how you adjust the level of the sub? I see you can get a remote level switch that you can mount. A bit pricy at $50 for a switch but curious how you deal with this while driving?
I have not tried without it. My buddy is a big car audio guy and he told me not to skip it. I imagine it would be fine without it but he gave me it for free (and helped with the install on our first van). The remote switch is pricey for what it is but definitely is worth it if you're wanting to adjust the level easily.
Are you in OR? Help me with my setup! Lol
Thanks for watching. We're in CA now and heading all directions but OR this year. 🤣 You can do it!
What amp did you use
We bought the JL Sub that has the amp in it. Not usually the way I'd go, but we're compromising for the space savings.
Your "amazing tool" doesn't work well because have the wire in backwards. It feeds from the left and strips to the right.
Thanks for the tip!