That’s never an easy job! I've just done this on my 300TDI. but it was not as bad as your's ! However I also replaced the footwells on both sides as once descaled they had a little more rust than your customers truck. My bulkhead feet were as rotten as yours on the lower edges. so I've replaced them with YRM replacements, which only requires the spot welds to be drilled out and is not too hard; since they connect the bulkhead to the chassis and sills which could compromise the overall strength of body to chassis. Having my footwell front and lower sections removed provided good access to weld the complete outrigger on, and I cut a section of the inside chassis out and fitted new metal as it was pitted, and once the outrigger is welded on, is hidden and inaccessible. So it was as well to restore it now. Replacing the outrigger and bulkhead feet at the same time required doing the foot first to maintain the position in exactly the right place, and it was necessary to support the bulkhead and take many measurements as with no footwell everything moves about. so it's taken much more time, working outdoors in sub zero conditions up in the Highlands does require many layers to keep warm 🥶 Having completely new footwells, bulkhead feet and a new outrigger, all finished with Raptor anti corrosive primer then 2K body and chassis paint, seams sealed with Tiger seal, has resulted in everything being like new and all followed with Waxoyl mixed with a little gearbox EP90 will, I hope, protect inside and outside the bulkhead, footwells and chassis for another 28 years. I am lucky to have the luxury of taking my time, as it's my own truck and I don't want to have to come back to the feet or footwells in the future. BTW I think it was Mike @BritannicaRestorations who showed how to cut and weld the top of the front outrigger when access is restricted.
HI Shaun...you are not the only one as i thought the rust was gonna to keep coming myself but it turned out it was not too bad in athe end..regards Paul
Hi PG Tips...yes just got the cross member to do will make a start tomorrow...the diesel heater is still working fine but i converted it into a tent heater for Heimdall as it is perfect for that..regards Paul
Hi Dave...i always used to buy plasma cutters from plasma parts but i don't think they are going anymore...but you can usually pick up a good plasma cutter for around £400..regards Paul
Hi Carlos...i don't know about the mighty mig as i have never tried one..i would have shown more welding on this but it is a really awkward place to get to as there is only room for me without a camera...there is welding on the axle videos that we are doing starting 3 or 4 videos back if you want to see more welding but will try to show more in the future..regards Paul
Hi Alex...i don't actually take any measurements for doing outriggers as i have done quite a lot of them in the past...the only thing that you really need to do is to make sure that you can get the bulkhead bolt in place and then clamp it all flush to the chassis....regards Paul
Again another design fault ..when i do my own i always pull the wiring look out of the chassis and run it along the top with the fuel lines..seems to make more sense to me..
That’s never an easy job! I've just done this on my 300TDI. but it was not as bad as your's !
However I also replaced the footwells on both sides as once descaled they had a little more rust than your customers truck. My bulkhead feet were as rotten as yours on the lower edges. so I've replaced them with YRM replacements, which only requires the spot welds to be drilled out and is not too hard; since they connect the bulkhead to the chassis and sills which could compromise the overall strength of body to chassis.
Having my footwell front and lower sections removed provided good access to weld the complete outrigger on, and I cut a section of the inside chassis out and fitted new metal as it was pitted, and once the outrigger is welded on, is hidden and inaccessible. So it was as well to restore it now.
Replacing the outrigger and bulkhead feet at the same time required doing the foot first to maintain the position in exactly the right place, and it was necessary to support the bulkhead and take many measurements as with no footwell everything moves about. so it's taken much more time, working outdoors in sub zero conditions up in the Highlands does require many layers to keep warm 🥶 Having completely new footwells, bulkhead feet and a new outrigger, all finished with Raptor anti corrosive primer then 2K body and chassis paint, seams sealed with Tiger seal, has resulted in everything being like new and all followed with Waxoyl mixed with a little gearbox EP90 will, I hope, protect inside and outside the bulkhead, footwells and chassis for another 28 years. I am lucky to have the luxury of taking my time, as it's my own truck and I don't want to have to come back to the feet or footwells in the future. BTW I think it was Mike @BritannicaRestorations who showed how to cut and weld the top of the front outrigger when access is restricted.
Your ability to weld rust is amazing. Good job 👍
Hi Paul...its a skill developed over many years of welding many many rusty cars..
Cracking job mate when you first started i thought the rust was just going to keep going
HI Shaun...you are not the only one as i thought the rust was gonna to keep coming myself but it turned out it was not too bad in athe end..regards Paul
Nicely done Paul, it’s knowing when to stop cutting out all that rust !
Hi Gavin...thanks for that... i have done quite a few of these outriggers and its just practice..regards Paul
Looking brilliant there mate! Awesome job done ! 👍👍
thanks Marc
Hi Bud, great vid as always, keep your peepers on GDi products they do some nice chassis bits n bobs, mostly galv too
Hi Phil...i have had a look on Gdi products and their stuff looks really good thanks mate
Savage job you made it look so easy to do
Hi solo bushcraft...you know what they say practice makes perfect...regards Paul
Cracking job, just the cross member to do. What’s happened to the diesel heater you had for the workshop, has it given up the ghost? All the best. 😎👍
Hi PG Tips...yes just got the cross member to do will make a start tomorrow...the diesel heater is still working fine but i converted it into a tent heater for Heimdall as it is perfect for that..regards Paul
hi paul can you recomend a plasma cutter that wont break the bank
Hi Dave...i always used to buy plasma cutters from plasma parts but i don't think they are going anymore...but you can usually pick up a good plasma cutter for around £400..regards Paul
Hi, there is that new welder is the mighty migs any good and great vid could we see a bit more welding in action? 🥶
Hi Carlos...i don't know about the mighty mig as i have never tried one..i would have shown more welding on this but it is a really awkward place to get to as there is only room for me without a camera...there is welding on the axle videos that we are doing starting 3 or 4 videos back if you want to see more welding but will try to show more in the future..regards Paul
What measures did you take to make sure that it was in right place? My biggest fear doing them is getting them in wrong place and mess everything up
Hi Alex...i don't actually take any measurements for doing outriggers as i have done quite a lot of them in the past...the only thing that you really need to do is to make sure that you can get the bulkhead bolt in place and then clamp it all flush to the chassis....regards Paul
@@All4Overland thank you for replying 😊
Approximately how many hours are required to fit two front outriggers?
Hi..all depends how rotten they are..but usually about six hours a side..
I always thought the outrigger design was naff with that god awful water trap at the bottom of it
Hi Mark...i agree completely as the design of the outriggers is awful as they collect mud, water and then rot..regards Paul
@@All4Overland I'd rather do the crossmember but some once in a lifetime genius thought "let's put the harness inside the chassis"
Again another design fault ..when i do my own i always pull the wiring look out of the chassis and run it along the top with the fuel lines..seems to make more sense to me..
rotar pmsl were are we america you mean discs !
No I did mean brake rotars