This is a fundamental problem with the t1 boxes. I work on t2 cleaning, which doesn't have the same pivot issue and contact points for wear. For both t1 and t2 boxes, the black potentiometers are compatible. For the plastics I recommend cleaning using warm dish soap water and cleaning the springs and hosting use isopropyl alcohol. Most lots on ebay of junk stick boxes are loose, but doing a cleaning and rebuild helps alot. To keep the reassembly together I use a small adjustable wrench as a vice as I bend the stupid tabs. Most stick box clones you find as replacements from China or eBay are t1 clones with too whacked out potentiometers (use dolphin gc calibration to check it) and don't work with oem pots
I had never heard of the t1 vs t2 before, sounds like you probably know a lot more about these than I do. Yea those tabs are annoying, but luckily my tweezers are pretty girthy and could handle them. Thanks for checking ut the video!
@@FantasticQuack Here is some community info on the controllers around the middle. smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/
Love this. Gives me another option to repair my controller before I'm forced to buy another OEM stickbox. Yeah give us an update with how long this repair lasts for you please lol
That was some amazing close up camera work. Supper glue and baking soda sets like concrete, that analog stick component is likely to be able to survive a direct hit by nuke
When you just put that new refurbished piece in place and flicked it... amazing. Can't imagine how good it must've felt, making me wanna give it a shot myself! ^^
When I was trying to separate the stick from the pivot, I could not get it loose at all and ended up destroying it even more, and here you are doing it in 2 seconds with your fingernails lol. Mine almost came off my finger. Great video!
It might have came out easier on mine because it was so worn down. I'd probably have switched to a tweezers if it didn't go the first time. Thanks for watching and I hope it helped!
probably been said already but should always put lithium grease on plastic moving parts. still not a bad idea since you have to solder a new one on anyways.
I just finished with my gcc and I have to say this video is fantastic. With my repair, I used gorilla super glue because it said it is formulated for impact resistance. We'll have to wait and see how it'll hold up.
For a stronger solution, you could use milliput, glued onto the part with superglue while the putty is still in the curing stage. It will dry hard as stone.
rly helpful. i just had to clean mine with a q-tip and water. i cleaned the 2 little black things that translate joystick's moves. now mine works like a charm :D
Probably means you did not solder your horizontal potentiometer well and it does not have proper electrical contact with the circuit board. You must open the controller and redo the solder.
Just wow, this was so satisfying to watch. Thanks! Maybe putting some little bit of a silicone lubricant or plastic based something, I saw a guy using something calles like joystick butter... XD but there has to be other stuff out there... thanks again for your great tutorial.
Literally just had this issue happen when I was playing Luigi's Mansion, the analog stick now has problems going left with it now tilting slightly towards that direction. Do plan on getting it fixed. I don't want another problem controller like another one which has its Y button stuck in place.
Stuck buttons are usually an easy fix compared to a worn out joystick. For the former it usually is just opening the controller, finding the gunk that is causing the button to stick, and cleaning it out.
I don't know of anyone else using this method. You're more likely to run into controllers that have had the joystick replaced entirely. You'd need to take it apart to know for sure.
Dont use the baking soda to make the glue dry faster, you use it to make the glue hold stronger. Guitar repairmen use this mixture as a paste to fill in spots on guitars with damaged nuts in a pinch. Mix that shit into a paste and sand it flat
Great solution worked for me, I just wanna say I'm really curious cuz I never seen an og gamecube board that is green, all the ones I have worked on are the white version
omgomgomg thank you that's exactly what i'm searching for, spend 3 days before found this vidéo. now i know what's inside this joystick mechanism, so i'll be able to repare my cracking left joystick (it respond correctly, but stickbox crack everytime i go up then down :/)
@@FantasticQuack i will, my left joystick is cracking when i go from idle to up position, then crack again when i go down position, (but no prblm when i push left/right); it's the small white plastic round that we can see at 3:40 , i dismanteled my gamepad and saw this little thing shifts and "clicks" by chance because of your video, now i know how to disassemble this small mechanism ^^
I have a similar problem.. except mine is more worn down than yours.. the front white part is completely crumbled and I would love to replace the whole box. But unfortunately I don't have a soldering tool, let alone know how to use one. I know this is an older video, but it's okay. 😊 just wish I could fix my controller. And had I known about fixing controllers way back when I was a kid, I could've fixed my other controller that my old friend decided to smash against the wall, shattered the joystick cap. Was very sad. My mom threw it away too.
This was mainly an experiment to see if it could be done, almost every time replacing the stick box is the right thing to do, especially if you can harvest an OEM one from a wii nunchuk.
Kool video, GameCube has 3 different analog sticks, ranging from T1 to T3, this one in particular is a T1, mine had a big loose wobble so I replaced it with new one on amazon, it was a T1 model so not much difference except for the black potentiometers, so I kept them on and just replaced the stickbox. I’ve read that the potentiometers that come attached to the boxes you can buy online aren’t good quality so hence I just kept the original ones, I’ll replace them if I begin to notice drifting, anyways thanks for the tutorial I may just do the same with the loose stick box I replaced.
i am having the same issue of not having full forward movement while playing Ocarina of time. i don't have a lot of wobble like your controller did. when i take the shell off of the controller the problem goes away. i wonder if i can find a fix without having to do a full disassembly and repair like this. a notch cut into the stem of the joystick so that it could go forward slightly more would help, but i don't want to cut a groove into the joy stick
If the stick isn't wobbly it sounds like there could be some foreign material in the stickbox potentiometer causing your problem. You can pivot the potentiometer away from the stick box to get a look inside/clean without desoldering it, this would be the first thing I'd do but it is hard to describe the process with text and I don't have a video (yet) to reference. A more simple thing to try would be squirting 91% rubbing alcohol into the stick box, rotating the stick around a number of times to work in the alcohol, then blasting it all dry with canned air. Do that 2 or 3 times and it might clean out the potentiometers sufficiently to solve the problem. If it doesn't work it at least won't cause any new problems. If you want to add a cutout on the stick cap to give the joystick more forward motion, you could buy some cheap replacement caps online and cut into those so you're not damaging the good OEM one. Doing this doesn't solve the root of the problem though.
@@FantasticQuack Since I posted that comment, I found a practically brand new GC controller at a local game store. I don't think it was ever even used. I also bought some soldering tools, so one of these days I'm going to get the stickbox out of the old controller and try this repair. It definitely has wobble. I'm not as nervous to tinker with the old one now that I have a new one. Definitely going to follow this video when I do it
A fine choice, but remember the aftermarket parts are dirt cheap for a reason. If you can pull a real one out of a separate controller with other issues or worse condition, that is your best bet.
My brother just did this to my controller. It was in perfect working condition until he played luigis mansion 4 times in a row. He is a button smasher and does not care about the controllers. He recently did this to my ps2 controller as well but that controller does not have wiggle you just can't run forward. Everything looks in good condition as well. But I will be doing this fix on my gamecube controller
Oh gosh I had this problem trying to get him to run left like ages ago and I just gave up and left the game alone lol. i didn't think it was the controller cuz it didn't feel stiff when pushing it but yeah rip
I had a go at this last night (before seeing the video), but it wasn’t so successful. There wasn’t actually much wrong with the controller but I had 3 spares so I was just trying to see if I could eliminate the wiggle entirely. (I managed but at the expense of the controller’s ability to turn left), so not a success. It’s weird seeing the small differences in controllers though. Mine didn’t have any soldering on the four legs of the metal frame that stick through the circuit board and some components were a different color etc.
Were you trying to repair a worn out component like in this vid? Is it not turning left due to bad wiggle, or is there an issue with either the reassembly or the potentiometer itself? I've heard of those pots going bad before. I believe there are 3 variations of the joystick box depending on the time period the controller was manufactured. I think the one in this vid is the "oldest" variation. See section 2.5 of this link for more info. smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/ (This was new to me, shared earlier in comments by RH)
@@FantasticQuack I was trying to repair a worn out one, but I didn’t really know what I was doing. I’ve actually got it sorted now and just swapped the C-Stick box out of another controller and switched it into the left analogue stick position and it works great. The right sticks never get as much wear as the left so it was in near perfect condition.
@@FantasticQuack makes me wanna fix joystick on my orange GameCube controller to Finish Metroid prime 2 echoes and Sonic Riders and Tak 2 Staff of dreams before this year is over.
Do you know how to fix an analog stick that keeps getting pressed down and then experiences this problem? None of my other controllers analogs stick compress like the one I have problems with.
@@FantasticQuack actually it really depends on the controller. some gamecube controllers (ones that are the most recent hardware revision {called t3}) have fully plastic stick boxes that only need to be unscrewed and then unclipped from the potentiometers to be removed. impossible to tell what revision ur stick is unless u open it up though.
@@KnishG True. My response was referring only to the hardware shown in this video. I've only recently become aware there there were multiple stick-box designs.
@@metroid771 I have also played a lot of smash lately on the gamecube and I also had this same wear and tear on my original orange controller had the stick loose
@@FantasticQuack T3 controllers are best. You'll know it's a T3 because the whole stickbox is made out of plastic and it's all white. T3s last way longer and you can lubricate them to make them last even longer.
@@SuperLuigiGuy64 I'm not privy to the T#'s, but I was digging around in a black controller the other day and the stick-boxes on that one match what you described. It had less solder points as well.
@@FantasticQuack Correct, T3 stickboxes are held in place with 2 screws while T1 and T2 are interchangeable with each other and have 4 anchor points to solder down.
Wait... If Nintendo use harders materials we could have more of 3 years of thumbsticks use... 😲 Shocking... That is a dirty move from Nintendo. Also my wii u batery only endure 3 years of use and the SNES mini control only endure 2 years of use. The better choise could be built our own controles. 🤔
A grown person would likely never have issues with a gamecube controller for many years. But when you have four 12 year olds and Mario Party 6 slotted in... The controllers might not last the night
If you liked this video, check out my follow-up in the description. Be sure to subscribe for fun and more videos!
This is a fundamental problem with the t1 boxes. I work on t2 cleaning, which doesn't have the same pivot issue and contact points for wear. For both t1 and t2 boxes, the black potentiometers are compatible. For the plastics I recommend cleaning using warm dish soap water and cleaning the springs and hosting use isopropyl alcohol. Most lots on ebay of junk stick boxes are loose, but doing a cleaning and rebuild helps alot. To keep the reassembly together I use a small adjustable wrench as a vice as I bend the stupid tabs. Most stick box clones you find as replacements from China or eBay are t1 clones with too whacked out potentiometers (use dolphin gc calibration to check it) and don't work with oem pots
I had never heard of the t1 vs t2 before, sounds like you probably know a lot more about these than I do. Yea those tabs are annoying, but luckily my tweezers are pretty girthy and could handle them. Thanks for checking ut the video!
@@FantasticQuack Here is some community info on the controllers around the middle. smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/
@@Richard_Hu That is a good info page, thanks for sharing!
@@Richard_Hu The Kadano info is now pretty outdated...
Love this. Gives me another option to repair my controller before I'm forced to buy another OEM stickbox. Yeah give us an update with how long this repair lasts for you please lol
Inevitably the update video will happen. Glad you enjoyed!
@@FantasticQuack is the video on the update up yet?
@@bencue Yes! Check the description :)
That was some amazing close up camera work. Supper glue and baking soda sets like concrete, that analog stick component is likely to be able to survive a direct hit by nuke
Thanks! I actually did a follow up to this video to test how well it held up, check it out if you want :)
When you just put that new refurbished piece in place and flicked it... amazing. Can't imagine how good it must've felt, making me wanna give it a shot myself! ^^
It felt good! Give it a try, if it is already broken there isn't much left to lose :)
I have a very similar problem with my GameCube controller. Thanks for the video
Glad to hear this was useful for you!
Don't do this..remove the stick box and replace it with a new one...they're reasonably priced
@@MichaelScreamMachineEvans Don't worry I just bought a new controller.
And it works extremely well too
When I was trying to separate the stick from the pivot, I could not get it loose at all and ended up destroying it even more, and here you are doing it in 2 seconds with your fingernails lol. Mine almost came off my finger. Great video!
It might have came out easier on mine because it was so worn down. I'd probably have switched to a tweezers if it didn't go the first time. Thanks for watching and I hope it helped!
probably been said already but should always put lithium grease on plastic moving parts. still not a bad idea since you have to solder a new one on anyways.
Definitely not a bad idea, I just didn't have any handy
I just finished with my gcc and I have to say this video is fantastic. With my repair, I used gorilla super glue because it said it is formulated for impact resistance. We'll have to wait and see how it'll hold up.
Thanks! I'd love to hear an update after you use it for a while
How is it now?
For a stronger solution, you could use milliput, glued onto the part with superglue while the putty is still in the curing stage. It will dry hard as stone.
I will probably try that if I do a similar repair in the future. At the time I just wanted to use what I had on hand.
Thank you for the link to those tweezers. I was looking for some that were strong yet very thin.
Just recently started doing product links and was wondering if people were finding it useful so I appreciate this comment. Cheers!
had this issue and it worked great tutorial thanks for the help
Glad this was useful for you!
i have 20 controllers with broken sticks. not sure if it's worth it but this guy is pro
Thank you!
@8bitmadness803 bro has way to many friends💀
Good video dude, just finished fixing my controller and its so dope.
Thank you, glad to hear!
rly helpful.
i just had to clean mine with a q-tip and water.
i cleaned the 2 little black things that translate joystick's moves.
now mine works like a charm :D
I'm very happy to hear this helped you!
never use water, use isopropyl alcohol
wow, i did this and it got rid of the wobble a lot! thanks! though for some reason im not getting any left or right input... any ideas?
Were you getting left/right before? Could be an issue with the installation of the pot or the pot itself (number of possible reasons)
Probably means you did not solder your horizontal potentiometer well and it does not have proper electrical contact with the circuit board. You must open the controller and redo the solder.
Just wow, this was so satisfying to watch. Thanks! Maybe putting some little bit of a silicone lubricant or plastic based something, I saw a guy using something calles like joystick butter... XD but there has to be other stuff out there... thanks again for your great tutorial.
Grease would have been a good idea for sure, thanks for watching!
I was nervous watching you use the exacto knife so close to your fingers
No worries I am very careful :)
Literally just had this issue happen when I was playing Luigi's Mansion, the analog stick now has problems going left with it now tilting slightly towards that direction. Do plan on getting it fixed. I don't want another problem controller like another one which has its Y button stuck in place.
Stuck buttons are usually an easy fix compared to a worn out joystick. For the former it usually is just opening the controller, finding the gunk that is causing the button to stick, and cleaning it out.
@@FantasticQuack If only little me back then knee that was possible lol. Even if I did knew, I would've probably broke the controller anyway xD
Yes helpful,can u tell if you buy a refurbished one that no longer works if they used that method
I don't know of anyone else using this method. You're more likely to run into controllers that have had the joystick replaced entirely. You'd need to take it apart to know for sure.
Dont use the baking soda to make the glue dry faster, you use it to make the glue hold stronger. Guitar repairmen use this mixture as a paste to fill in spots on guitars with damaged nuts in a pinch. Mix that shit into a paste and sand it flat
Interesting stuff!
Great solution worked for me, I just wanna say I'm really curious cuz I never seen an og gamecube board that is green, all the ones I have worked on are the white version
I think this one is one of the oldest controller models. I've more commonly seen the white boards as well.
@@FantasticQuack yeah it could be, I just thought it was curious, just like how the t3 stickboxes (plastic) are better than the metal ones 😅
omgomgomg thank you that's exactly what i'm searching for, spend 3 days before found this vidéo.
now i know what's inside this joystick mechanism, so i'll be able to repare my cracking left joystick
(it respond correctly, but stickbox crack everytime i go up then down :/)
Glad to hear this, let me know how the fix goes!
@@FantasticQuack i will, my left joystick is cracking when i go from idle to up position, then crack again when i go down position, (but no prblm when i push left/right);
it's the small white plastic round that we can see at 3:40 , i dismanteled my gamepad and saw this little thing shifts and "clicks"
by chance because of your video, now i know how to disassemble this small mechanism ^^
I have a similar problem.. except mine is more worn down than yours.. the front white part is completely crumbled and I would love to replace the whole box. But unfortunately I don't have a soldering tool, let alone know how to use one. I know this is an older video, but it's okay. 😊 just wish I could fix my controller. And had I known about fixing controllers way back when I was a kid, I could've fixed my other controller that my old friend decided to smash against the wall, shattered the joystick cap. Was very sad. My mom threw it away too.
This was mainly an experiment to see if it could be done, almost every time replacing the stick box is the right thing to do, especially if you can harvest an OEM one from a wii nunchuk.
this is exactly the problem I have on one I bought for 20
Sometimes it's best to replace the stick box, This was just "for fun" to see if it could be done, but a replacement would be the highest quality fix.
Kool video, GameCube has 3 different analog sticks, ranging from T1 to T3, this one in particular is a T1, mine had a big loose wobble so I replaced it with new one on amazon, it was a T1 model so not much difference except for the black potentiometers, so I kept them on and just replaced the stickbox. I’ve read that the potentiometers that come attached to the boxes you can buy online aren’t good quality so hence I just kept the original ones, I’ll replace them if I begin to notice drifting, anyways thanks for the tutorial I may just do the same with the loose stick box I replaced.
Thanks for the info and for watching!
i am having the same issue of not having full forward movement while playing Ocarina of time. i don't have a lot of wobble like your controller did. when i take the shell off of the controller the problem goes away. i wonder if i can find a fix without having to do a full disassembly and repair like this. a notch cut into the stem of the joystick so that it could go forward slightly more would help, but i don't want to cut a groove into the joy stick
If the stick isn't wobbly it sounds like there could be some foreign material in the stickbox potentiometer causing your problem. You can pivot the potentiometer away from the stick box to get a look inside/clean without desoldering it, this would be the first thing I'd do but it is hard to describe the process with text and I don't have a video (yet) to reference.
A more simple thing to try would be squirting 91% rubbing alcohol into the stick box, rotating the stick around a number of times to work in the alcohol, then blasting it all dry with canned air. Do that 2 or 3 times and it might clean out the potentiometers sufficiently to solve the problem. If it doesn't work it at least won't cause any new problems.
If you want to add a cutout on the stick cap to give the joystick more forward motion, you could buy some cheap replacement caps online and cut into those so you're not damaging the good OEM one. Doing this doesn't solve the root of the problem though.
@@FantasticQuack Since I posted that comment, I found a practically brand new GC controller at a local game store. I don't think it was ever even used.
I also bought some soldering tools, so one of these days I'm going to get the stickbox out of the old controller and try this repair. It definitely has wobble. I'm not as nervous to tinker with the old one now that I have a new one. Definitely going to follow this video when I do it
im just gonna replace the stickbox, they are dirt cheap on ebay i think i got like 10 of them for a few bucks
A fine choice, but remember the aftermarket parts are dirt cheap for a reason. If you can pull a real one out of a separate controller with other issues or worse condition, that is your best bet.
@@FantasticQuack yeah i just have a single controller from ebay with a loose stick so i dont have that option
You can buy a whole new controller on Walmart for $10.
@@ihavenoname1343 not a genuine nintendo controller you cant , the aftermarket ones are ass
@@darrell5363 I bought a white one for $10 (not nintendo) and it works great. Just don't see much point that's all
Great video man! Thanks
You bet! cheers
My brother just did this to my controller. It was in perfect working condition until he played luigis mansion 4 times in a row. He is a button smasher and does not care about the controllers. He recently did this to my ps2 controller as well but that controller does not have wiggle you just can't run forward. Everything looks in good condition as well. But I will be doing this fix on my gamecube controller
I wish you the best!
Oh gosh I had this problem trying to get him to run left like ages ago and I just gave up and left the game alone lol. i didn't think it was the controller cuz it didn't feel stiff when pushing it but yeah rip
Hope you got a new one!
I had a go at this last night (before seeing the video), but it wasn’t so successful. There wasn’t actually much wrong with the controller but I had 3 spares so I was just trying to see if I could eliminate the wiggle entirely. (I managed but at the expense of the controller’s ability to turn left), so not a success.
It’s weird seeing the small differences in controllers though. Mine didn’t have any soldering on the four legs of the metal frame that stick through the circuit board and some components were a different color etc.
Were you trying to repair a worn out component like in this vid? Is it not turning left due to bad wiggle, or is there an issue with either the reassembly or the potentiometer itself? I've heard of those pots going bad before.
I believe there are 3 variations of the joystick box depending on the time period the controller was manufactured. I think the one in this vid is the "oldest" variation.
See section 2.5 of this link for more info.
smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/
(This was new to me, shared earlier in comments by RH)
@@FantasticQuack I was trying to repair a worn out one, but I didn’t really know what I was doing. I’ve actually got it sorted now and just swapped the C-Stick box out of another controller and switched it into the left analogue stick position and it works great. The right sticks never get as much wear as the left so it was in near perfect condition.
Happy to hear that! Parting out some brokens or spares is always a good way to go.
@@FantasticQuack makes me wanna fix joystick on my orange GameCube controller to Finish Metroid prime 2 echoes and Sonic Riders and Tak 2 Staff of dreams before this year is over.
Do you know how to fix an analog stick that keeps getting pressed down and then experiences this problem? None of my other controllers analogs stick compress like the one I have problems with.
Hmm I'm not sureI understand what the issue is precisely. You could email me some pics and I can try to give some advice.
Nice idea! Thank you.
Glad you like it!
Ufornatnly my whole side clip holding the stick broke off somehow i think im just gonna buy a new one and keep the ol one for parts😊
Having parts handy is always a good thing!
what is the screedriver tip
triwing
How did you take of the joystick? I tried but I didn't want it to break
See 2:11 - 2:55 in the video which shows exactly how I took off the joystick.
Thanks
if i got to the point i had to desolder it id just see about getting a replacement stick.
No shame in that!
for my controller is more fucked
but it drifts when i move the stick up and i have to unplug and plug for down to work
That is a strange problem, maybe the potentiometers are bad?
It is possible to do it without soldering?
Unfortunately not
@@FantasticQuack actually it really depends on the controller. some gamecube controllers (ones that are the most recent hardware revision {called t3}) have fully plastic stick boxes that only need to be unscrewed and then unclipped from the potentiometers to be removed. impossible to tell what revision ur stick is unless u open it up though.
@@KnishG True. My response was referring only to the hardware shown in this video. I've only recently become aware there there were multiple stick-box designs.
There a $1.25 a piece on amazon. Wouldnt it be easier and faster to pay for a new 1
Of course it would, but where's the fun in that? The point of this video was to do the job with at-hand options and keeping original hardware.
Gracias!
de nada!
Ashes work better than baking soda
Never heard that one!
Thx！
u bet!
i have a wiggle stick gamecube controler that's gray
Gray controller? I think Panasonic made a grey one and it is pretty rare, I would love to restore one like that!
Cool.
Thanks for watching!
Or hear me out, just swap it with a donor controller
Never would have thought of that, good idea!
Much smash huh😉😉😉??
I guess so! It came from a relative.
Yes, much smash was played with this controller.
@@metroid771 I have also played a lot of smash lately on the gamecube and I also had this same wear and tear on my original orange controller had the stick loose
@@Antonio2144xD yea. It's understandable, also having said controller for years since I was little. Lol
This is a T1 board, no wonder. 😂 T1 joysticks aren't built to last and they are very crap. You'd be better off replacing both stickboxes with T2.
You're probably not wrong! I have since taken apart some newer controllers and the stick-boxes did seem improved.
@@FantasticQuack T3 controllers are best. You'll know it's a T3 because the whole stickbox is made out of plastic and it's all white. T3s last way longer and you can lubricate them to make them last even longer.
@@SuperLuigiGuy64 I'm not privy to the T#'s, but I was digging around in a black controller the other day and the stick-boxes on that one match what you described. It had less solder points as well.
@@FantasticQuack Correct, T3 stickboxes are held in place with 2 screws while T1 and T2 are interchangeable with each other and have 4 anchor points to solder down.
BRUH HOW DO I CLEAN STAINS OFF THE DAMN CONTROLLER MY THING HAS STAINS ALL OVER THE DAMN COBSYWJWYJWJSHWNENEKSGABAOAM
Try isopropyl alcohol to start!
Wait... If Nintendo use harders materials we could have more of 3 years of thumbsticks use... 😲
Shocking... That is a dirty move from Nintendo.
Also my wii u batery only endure 3 years of use and the SNES mini control only endure 2 years of use.
The better choise could be built our own controles. 🤔
A grown person would likely never have issues with a gamecube controller for many years. But when you have four 12 year olds and Mario Party 6 slotted in... The controllers might not last the night
Just buy another controller. They are inexpensive. $25 to $30.
The whole point is that you don't need to spend money with this option.
more easy if you buy a new one
True, but the process is fun and I prefer preserving rather than discarding.
But also very expensive
I have an aftermarket GC controller with this problem
That one's for the trash.. 😞