Mr. Nick, your work is excellent. Please, in the next videos, if possible, include the correct method of removing the TV panel when replacing the backlight
Are you asking for this TV specifically? Yeah, the reason we use that one as our test set is because it does have bad backlights and I fear a bad diffuser so it's brighter on the edges than in the center.
Thanks again Nick for the video. Side question for you. I wanted to know if you are satisfied with your Uni-t thermal camera? I'm starting to get a bit more information about it cause i want to buy one, and I'm hesitating between the brands Uni-T or Topdon. I am therefore looking for comments from those who have one and are satisfied.
It's the first and only Thermal camera I have purchased, so I can't say that it's better or worse than Topdon, but I do like it. I like that you can take a picture of what you are seeing, I like the fact that when you do a picture it takes 2 pictures, 1 normal of the board and one in infrared so that you can do a visual comparison of the normal picture VS the IR to help you see which part was overheating. I haven't tried to see if you can record live but I think you can because I have seen NorthridgeFix do video and I believe he uses the same one I have. The one I am using is the UTi260B 256px x 192px resolution one This is the eBay listing I bought from: www.ebay.com/itm/385051501788 I spent a lot of time searching for a cheaper seller and this is by far the best price for this model. What is the model number of the topdon you are looking to get?
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for your comments. I had these two choices at the moment: TOPDON TC005 and UTi260B. From what i see so far, TOPDON TC005 has a larger screen at 3.5 inches, compared to the UTi260B's 2.8 inches, and it also offers longer battery life, up to 8 hours instead of 6. On the other hand, the UTi260B has Wi-Fi connectivity, which the TOPDON doesn't have, and it’s a bit more expensive. The TOPDON can measure higher temperatures, up to 550°C, while the UTi260B goes up to 400°C. So good things on both, and quite similar with just few key differences.
So when it comes to battery life, I don't know how you plan on using it but I use mine for about 3-minute segments typically to take a look at a circuit while it's live. I usually see what I need to see within that time or less. So far, I charged the thing once in the three months I have had it and we use it once every other day at least. Unless you really are planning on having it on for multiple hours at a time daily and getting that 2 extra hours is important, I probably wouldn't consider that to be an important spec. As for the screen size, it might be nice to have a larger screen. I guess that's one of those things where I wouldn't know that I wanted it until I tried it for myself. You can teach me something here, but what does the wifi do? Is that for updates? For the temp range im curious but what application are you thinking of using it for that may require it to need to read up to 550°C? For electronic repair, at least the way I use it, I feel like as long as it can do up to 150°C it will work in showing me what components are getting unusually hot. Really any component above 100°C is an issue typically so for me personally and how I use it that temp range wouldn't matter too much.
@@NicksTVRepair I really like your reasoning. Indeed, the time of use is very relative, since the use would only be for a short time compared to the maximum of its charge. As for Wi-Fi, it's used for image transfer and firmware updates. As far as I'm concerned, it's certainly not essential, as there's already far too much wifi on all the devices, so USB is just right for me. As for the temperature range, as far as electronics are concerned, if a component already exceeds 100 degrees, i agree with you, there's already a question mark. I also do a bit of mechanical work, so I'll probably see temperatures that can rise above 500 degrees too, but clearly not in everyday use. Although 400 degrees can also give good information. Thanks again for your comments and reasoning. I very much appreciate them in my evaluation of the selection I'm going to make.
I did. Did I not include that in the video? I have watched it so many times throughout the edit I kind of forget what was cut and what wasn't at this point haha.
On average, how much does it cost to fix a one connect box. BN91-18954K TV will come on and shut of every 15 minute remote does not work well with TV at times.
That sure can be challenging sometimes. That little IC chip that was shorted and getting to 117 degrees celsius I definitely didn't have. Had to take it from a scavenger board. Never really seen that one go out before, which is why we ended up choosing this one to do a video on. Typically it's just the HDMI processor chip that goes out, so for those at least we have plenty in stock. The key is to find a reputable seller for everything which can be tough.
@NicksTVRepair most one connect samsungs that end up at my shop have a fried cpu on the external module,so they end up as a no fix unfortunately.Impossible to find a working cpu for such stuff here in Greece,and it's a waste of time and money as far as I'm concerned to try and order one from China...Still trying to find a reputable seller...That's why I pick up EVERY tossed tv next to the garbage bins,you can never have enough spare boards...
Yeah, we also have a lot of TV parts lying around, but it's not hoarding, because we are professionals haha. Fried CPU? Are you referring to some of the newer One Connect boxes perhaps? Often for these units, the JS9000 and also the HU9000 One Connect box the CPU doesn't fail but instead the solder balls between the CPU and PCB crack. Typically reflows resolve this, and in certain instances, reballs are required. Now with that said yes they also sometimes fail. The easiest way to know is the plastic around the box actually started melting a bit. When we see that, we don't even open up the box, because often the PCB will also have gotten damaged and that's just not worth trying to fix.
@NicksTVRepair Can't remember the exact models,without referring to my customer database,but they where gonners for sure,small but powerfully heatspot at the edge of the top of the chip,and almost zero ohms.No deformed plastic casing though.As per other faults,I don't have a vast experience on such models since they sold poorly in the local market ,at least to my knowledge.
Mr. Nick, your work is excellent. Please, in the next videos, if possible, include the correct method of removing the TV panel when replacing the backlight
Are you asking for this TV specifically?
Yeah, the reason we use that one as our test set is because it does have bad backlights and I fear a bad diffuser so it's brighter on the edges than in the center.
Thanks for the knowledge Nick !
Do you have a video on changing the leds the top goes dark on ours but I can't find any info on repair or part suppliers
Great work and valuable information, thank you Nick.
My pleasure!
Thankyou Nick😅😅
I wish if I work with you repair tv
Thanks again Nick for the video.
Side question for you. I wanted to know if you are satisfied with your Uni-t thermal camera? I'm starting to get a bit more information about it cause i want to buy one, and I'm hesitating between the brands Uni-T or Topdon. I am therefore looking for comments from those who have one and are satisfied.
It's the first and only Thermal camera I have purchased, so I can't say that it's better or worse than Topdon, but I do like it. I like that you can take a picture of what you are seeing, I like the fact that when you do a picture it takes 2 pictures, 1 normal of the board and one in infrared so that you can do a visual comparison of the normal picture VS the IR to help you see which part was overheating.
I haven't tried to see if you can record live but I think you can because I have seen NorthridgeFix do video and I believe he uses the same one I have.
The one I am using is the UTi260B 256px x 192px resolution one
This is the eBay listing I bought from:
www.ebay.com/itm/385051501788
I spent a lot of time searching for a cheaper seller and this is by far the best price for this model.
What is the model number of the topdon you are looking to get?
@@NicksTVRepair Thanks for your comments. I had these two choices at the moment: TOPDON TC005 and UTi260B.
From what i see so far, TOPDON TC005 has a larger screen at 3.5 inches, compared to the UTi260B's 2.8 inches, and it also offers longer battery life, up to 8 hours instead of 6. On the other hand, the UTi260B has Wi-Fi connectivity, which the TOPDON doesn't have, and it’s a bit more expensive. The TOPDON can measure higher temperatures, up to 550°C, while the UTi260B goes up to 400°C. So good things on both, and quite similar with just few key differences.
So when it comes to battery life, I don't know how you plan on using it but I use mine for about 3-minute segments typically to take a look at a circuit while it's live. I usually see what I need to see within that time or less. So far, I charged the thing once in the three months I have had it and we use it once every other day at least. Unless you really are planning on having it on for multiple hours at a time daily and getting that 2 extra hours is important, I probably wouldn't consider that to be an important spec.
As for the screen size, it might be nice to have a larger screen. I guess that's one of those things where I wouldn't know that I wanted it until I tried it for myself.
You can teach me something here, but what does the wifi do? Is that for updates?
For the temp range im curious but what application are you thinking of using it for that may require it to need to read up to 550°C?
For electronic repair, at least the way I use it, I feel like as long as it can do up to 150°C it will work in showing me what components are getting unusually hot. Really any component above 100°C is an issue typically so for me personally and how I use it that temp range wouldn't matter too much.
@@NicksTVRepair I really like your reasoning. Indeed, the time of use is very relative, since the use would only be for a short time compared to the maximum of its charge.
As for Wi-Fi, it's used for image transfer and firmware updates. As far as I'm concerned, it's certainly not essential, as there's already far too much wifi on all the devices, so USB is just right for me.
As for the temperature range, as far as electronics are concerned, if a component already exceeds 100 degrees, i agree with you, there's already a question mark. I also do a bit of mechanical work, so I'll probably see temperatures that can rise above 500 degrees too, but clearly not in everyday use. Although 400 degrees can also give good information.
Thanks again for your comments and reasoning. I very much appreciate them in my evaluation of the selection I'm going to make.
Let me know what you end up going with and how it is!
Why no mention of the Chip Numbers ans Sources
you should have rechecked the resistance after reinstalling those chip to see what it's reading should be.
I did. Did I not include that in the video? I have watched it so many times throughout the edit I kind of forget what was cut and what wasn't at this point haha.
I cannot understand how you made the temperature check without the power supply. It this TV model having the power supply inside the screen box ?
Yes power supply is inside the TV
Hello sir
Can you provide me sony (kd-55x7500H) emmc dump file .please
I hope you will help me.
Thanks
And Thanks again for informative videos..❤
sorry don't have
@@NicksTVRepair no problem boss
Ok thanks for reply 🙂 👍
On average, how much does it cost to fix a one connect box.
BN91-18954K
TV will come on and shut of every 15 minute remote does not work well with TV at times.
I don't know the answer to your question, this is not a box we service so I don't have experience with repairs on it.
The toughest part is to find replacement chips that actually work...
That sure can be challenging sometimes. That little IC chip that was shorted and getting to 117 degrees celsius I definitely didn't have. Had to take it from a scavenger board. Never really seen that one go out before, which is why we ended up choosing this one to do a video on. Typically it's just the HDMI processor chip that goes out, so for those at least we have plenty in stock.
The key is to find a reputable seller for everything which can be tough.
@NicksTVRepair most one connect samsungs that end up at my shop have a fried cpu on the external module,so they end up as a no fix unfortunately.Impossible to find a working cpu for such stuff here in Greece,and it's a waste of time and money as far as I'm concerned to try and order one from China...Still trying to find a reputable seller...That's why I pick up EVERY tossed tv next to the garbage bins,you can never have enough spare boards...
Yeah, we also have a lot of TV parts lying around, but it's not hoarding, because we are professionals haha.
Fried CPU? Are you referring to some of the newer One Connect boxes perhaps?
Often for these units, the JS9000 and also the HU9000 One Connect box the CPU doesn't fail but instead the solder balls between the CPU and PCB crack. Typically reflows resolve this, and in certain instances, reballs are required. Now with that said yes they also sometimes fail. The easiest way to know is the plastic around the box actually started melting a bit. When we see that, we don't even open up the box, because often the PCB will also have gotten damaged and that's just not worth trying to fix.
@NicksTVRepair Can't remember the exact models,without referring to my customer database,but they where gonners for sure,small but powerfully heatspot at the edge of the top of the chip,and almost zero ohms.No deformed plastic casing though.As per other faults,I don't have a vast experience on such models since they sold poorly in the local market ,at least to my knowledge.
Hunting for thrown away TV's, Sunday night drives before garbage pickup Monday morning. If I find anything I'll put up on eBay.