Send in your Power Supply For Repair: nickselectronics.com/products/un75h7150afxza Fix it yourself with our kit: nickselectronics.com/products/samsung-bn44-00725a-power-supply-parts-kit
Good to see someone that has EXPERIENCE doing the work! The only thing I would have done differently would be to wait on soldering the heatsink until I powered up the unit. If it immediately blew out the transistors again due to some other fault it would be much easier to replace them.
Yeah that's a good point! I always tell people not to put the back cover on the TV before powering on the set because if they made a mistake and forgot to plug in a wire or didn't plug a ribbon in correctly they have to take everything apart again. Same principle.
@@NicksTVRepair Your 'Desolder Pump' is marketed as 'SOLDAPULLT'. /// The name “SOLDAPULLT” is a clever play on words combining “solder” and “catapult.” This reflects the tool’s function: it uses a spring-loaded mechanism to “catapult” or pull away solder during desoldering processes. Guys who do a lot of on the bench work gravitate towards hollow tipped desoldering stations... but I still use this Soldapullt tool because it's 2nd nature and I don't do that much board work anymore. Heck... 2 for $10 on Amazon is better than $1000 plus for a station...
Yeah we have a desolder station but indeed I only use it if I have to do a lot of desoldering. This I don't consider to be a lot, so ill use the pump. I like it better, it's simpler.
I have repaired a 60 inch Samsung motherboard. I baked it in the oven for 15 minutes. By the way I see the boards don't really cost all that much. But can be fun to fix them if you have the time. Great repair by the way.
I would be careful with the oven baking, it's easy to make them irreparable. But as you said as long as there are replacements available for cheap, why not give it a try and yes indeed repairing stuff is very fun!
Thank you for your kind comment! Been doing it for 10 years ish now. I don't solder nearly as much as I used to at first now that I have 7 employees, but I still love picking up the iron and repairing stuff.
That was fascinating to see! I can design and create PCBs to get working, but I would suck trying to understand other people's boards! I'd literally be lost knowing where to even look. So this was awesome.
Excellent illustration and informative troubleshooting. One tip I've learned when using the solder wick, spread it out "pull it side to side" then it will absorb the solder even better. Anyway, well done.
That was great! I've always been interested in electrical engineering. These videos make me wish I had pursued it. Feels so good bringing life back to equipment that requires dollars worth of replacement parts and some time.
I really enjoyed watching this I am in the UK and we get a couple of electronic repair people on you tube and i do watch them simply because I had a stroke and lost some of my memory which is terrible when you are trying to repair something and for get how to test them I am also a Radio ham so it is vital i get that memory back ,thanks for the Video
Vielen dank, ich werde das gegebenenfalls mit dem nächsten Fernseher oder generell einem elektroartikel einmal probieren... Bin komplett neu in der materie, fange gerade erst mit Tutorials an wie man Elektronik durchmisst
Phenomenal! My Samsung TV has no standby light. Checked the plug fuse and have limited knowledge beyond this. However, I did open up and disconnect the cable between the two boards. I still have no back light. I am now tempted to replace the Power Supply Board. Is this a reasonable course of action?
What is the model number of your TV? It sure does sound like a power supply failure. We can probably fix it for cheaper than a replacement, however and even more importantly, having the board fixed will probably last longer than buying a used one. The reason I say this is because we replace the defective parts with higher quality than factory so the failure never reoccurs. This ensures that our repaired board lasts longer than a brand new one would.
@@NicksTVRepairthanks for the response. I have a samsung ue65nu8000T. I would have preferred a repair through yourselves but have now ordered a replacement board. I came across your video since then. Do you also repair the main boards? If the replacement doesn’t fix the issue, can I ship both to you for repair/inspection please?
Thank you very much! The solder I use is leaded and has flux in it, that could be why it looks like low melt. It's not technically low melt but it flows way better than none leaded that's for sure. This is a link to it if you want to buy the same: amzn.to/4cMy6jv
Yeah we have one and have done several videos with it in the past. Its pretty good, but does require a lot of maintenance. Definitely can't use flux with it or it will for sure clog up.
Great Video thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and saving this board's and tv's from going to the land field im a Diy love to fix electronics still have ways to go in learning but i learn a lot from people like you that share their knowledge with us Thank you Nick
Hello sir . That was a great work done , I really admire your workshop and study repair factor. Please kindly show the number display on the MOSFET so that we will also know more. Thank you sir.
This video is very helpful....I'm learning how to do component level testing, but our tv is having a weird problem. It was working fine except for a few defusers that fell off and a few dead leds.... so i replaced the led strips. Now the LEDs strips flashes and i verified with my multimeter that the output voltage to LEDs irregularly fluctuates between 0v and 40v, leading me to think the power supply is faulty. What might you suggest to look into on the power board?
Most likely you have a bad connection somewhere. I would highly recommend you start by double checking that all of the connections are proper. When I say connections I mean every wire connecting to the LED strips and the led strips to one another.
There is actually flux imbeded in the solder we use. Flux is there to help if you don't have good solder flow. I feel like I had good solder flow, and didn't need to use more than what was already in the imbeded in the solder.
@@NicksTVRepair there’s a plasma TV while watching it goes off, when I try to on it immediately it doesn’t come on until after a long period. What do you suggest could be the problem?
@@NicksTVRepair Electronics Repair School channel. BTW - you do a great clear and concise job in a 9 minute video. Doesn't get much simpler and easier.
Hello, i have subcribed and liked and below, I have a couple of questions. How are you able to tell what pins to test in beep mode. How do you know the orientation of the transistor/diode. How can you identify a component as a diode,transistor(npn,pnp)
So the easy way to identify the components without having to look up data sheets every time is by their ID location. If the ID location of a component starts with the letter D then it's a diode. If it's a Q then it's a transistor. L for inductor, F for fuse, R for resistor, and C is for capacitor. Those are the most common ones. As for NPN or PNP transistors, it won't matter in terms of testing, none of the legs are supposed to be shorted to one another. So if you detect a short then most likely that transistor is bad. However, sometimes the circuit can be designed that way so it's always good to recheck them once they are out of the circuit to confirm A the part you removed is shorted, and B that the short is no longer present in the circuit. Had I only removed the 1 shorted transistor and not the diode, I would have still detected a short in the circuit even after removing the shorted transistor. Makes sense?
Hi, first time to see your uploads. Fantastic and I very much look forward to seeing more👏👏👏Do you also repair Main Boards with software issues and if so how much would it cost please? Regards, Brian👍👏🏴👍👏🏴
Depends on the mainboard and the repair required. If it's a Nand chip repair usually less expensive than eMMC software repair. What is the exact part number of the mainboard you would like to have us fix and also if you can provide symptoms.
@ Hi, thank you for your reply. The TV is a Philips 55PUS64001/12 and the main board is: 715G7776-M01-B00-005K. Fault, When attempting to switch on I get the following request: Android Recovery Philips/QM16exe_U/QM16XE_U 8.0.0/OPR5. 170623.014/026680 user/release-keys Any button cycles highlight. Long-press activates. Reboot system now Apply update from SD card Wipe cache partition. I tried to use a keyboard to reboot the system but obviously didn’t work. Corrupted firmware I believe. Can you fix it? Where are you based and how much would the fix be please? Regards, Brian
This does sound like a software failure. And while we do fix software failures often, we require a good version of the software to be able to fix the TV. Without it, we can't perform a repair. Unfortunately, we don't have software for any Philips TVs so I won't be able to help you there. I would recommend trying to replace the mainboard if possible.
Yeah everyone is saying that in the comments, but the thing is that it really wasn't that close. I know it looks like it could be due to the camera angle, but if you had a different angle from the side you would realize there was at least 2 inches of space between my arm and the board.
I actually have been thinking about putting a few videos together and putting up a soldering course. I don't know if I will be doing a troubleshooting course but maybe in the future.
We have the FR301 as well as the solder sucker and desolder wick. The FR301 can be more convenient but only when I have to do a lot of desoldering in one go. It takes a bit of time to get up to temp, it requires maintenance and routine cleaning and stays super hot for super long which means you have to go put it far away so no one accidentally burns themselves when you are done with it. It can just be a hassle so if I only have 3 components with few legs to desolder it doesn't make sense for me to use it. I would rather just use the desolder pump and wick. If I have a through hole IC with 32 pins then sure ill bust it out.
100eur desoldering station with vacuum pump is 100000x better than those spring pumps, they are a bit fiddly and may need small tweaks and fixes to work well, mine had a problem with seal behind the heater, but overall performance is so much better than the handheld pump it isn't as useful for these single sided boards, but for multilayer there really is no comparison
We have 2 FR-301 desolder pump/iron in the shop, they are pretty good for tougher jobs, but I wouldn't say it's 1,000 times better. The none electric desoldering pump I used in this video does also do the job well. The joints with those crowns are typically a bit tougher though and require the use of desolder wick. I probably could have gotten the solder off those tougher joints faster with the desoldering iron/pump but I don't know I also like the manual pump. I usually only use the FR-301 if it's a lot of joints like say some of the 18 throughole pin IC's or displays we replace for the oven control boards. This wasn't very many pins to desolder and only a couple were the tougher kind.
This is all very nice but how did you know to go to those components? Whee is the schematic for this board which would identify the parts what they do and expected voltages to check? With out this stuff this is just a glorified soldering lesson, something I can do well already.
I have never shocked my self on a live set while it's plugged in, but I have shocked my self on a power supply disconnected from power that still had plenty of juice, and boy that wakes you up. I wouldn't recommend.
So we actually almost never see capacitors fail on LED power supply boards. That was a common issue on plasma and LCD models however. Now with that said of course there are always exceptions, there are a few specific power supplies for which we see ceramic caps go bad but for this unit I have never encountered that. That's why we don't typically check them for this model power supply.
My samsung tv UN55MU6290F toast after lightning, power light comes on, but power button or remote control wont work tuvturn it on. Any idea what could be and how much would it cost to fix it. Houston, Tx.
The fault you are experiencing is likely a mainboard failure and not power supply as most people believe is the case with a lightning strike. We charge this much to fix the mainboard: nickselectronics.com/products/bn94-12662z
Nice video, but i do have a question, what is the most likely culprit to cause a ceramic cap to go pop? The tv showed no signs of life, then when plugging in to another socket it killed a cap
Use diode mode to test diodes and transistors, not ohm-mode🤦 You can test the N-FET body diode with positive to source (pin 3, right) negative to drain (pin 2, middle). And you can even test if it turns on: negative to source, touch positive to gate (pin1, left), now positive to drain should show short until you discharge the gate by shorting it to one of the other pins.
Once you get better at fixing things and you understand what your meter is doing when it's in diode mode VS resistance and how it behaves when things are good VS defective and you then understand that you can actually use it interchangeably. I could have used the meter in diode mode to test the transistor and could have told you if it was good or bad. I can also use the meter in resistance to test the diode. Heck I could use the diode mode to test a fuse or resistors (depending on the resistance) and tell you if they are good or not. Just have to know what to expect.
@@NicksTVRepair Sure, you can use the ohm mode on a diode, but what does that tell you about it? In diode mode you can see the voltage drop which differs for diode types (schottky, fast recovery etc). There's no spec for megaohms of a diode. Also some multimeters don't show anything for a diode in ohm range. Use the proper tool for the job. For mosfets I always test the body diode. I didn't see you do that. Also test if they turn on. Did you know you can turn on a mosfet with your multimeter in diode mode like I explained?
Nick I have a background in an Electronics but I have been in a coma and paralyzed years ago I need a refresher course if capacitors read o l on the ohms meter are they bad my church soundboard went out and I'm trying to fix it. I'm a computer nut I'm trying to get organized . Any help or advice for the helpful to me but you can see by my name I'm not a quitter.
Hello, To properly test a capacitor you should use an ESR meter and capacitance meter. I do exactly that in this video linked below that I published just last weekend: th-cam.com/video/yW7qUYb1hI0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kwCxe0lQ3Sekowc2
@@NicksTVRepair your all video very good every times watching something new to learning thanks for sharing knowledge almighty bless you more knowledge health n wealth.
Thank you, I appreciate that! These videos are also self serving, this is how we get word out that we fix a lot of these things so it gets us more business.
How did you know the "transistor" in the middle was not a transistor but a diode? Did you look it up have a schematic or were there symbols on the board?
Each component has a location ID next to it. It's small text printed on the circuit board. The location ID starts with a letters then numbers. The letters tell you the type of component it is. A diode starts with a D, a transistor starts with a Q, a resistor with an R, a fuse with an F, and IC chips start with the letters IC. So it doesn't tell you much more in depth info as to what kind of diode it is but at least I know it's a diode.
Thank you and good question. The reason I didn't re-apply after is because it's an extra step that I don't see making any positive difference to the functionality of the circuit board. I saw these coming in after a few years of manufacturing, and I have not added new silicone after repairs and have seen my repairs outlast the original PCB's life time. Why is it there in the first place? I don't know the answer for sure, but I have been told that it helps reduce vibration. What does that do and how does that affect the circuit board? again I don't know. I would love to know the reason, but from my perspective right now, my repairs last just as long if not longer than the original PCB did after manufacturing so I don't see the advantage of adding silicone to the legs other than adding an extra step to the repair process.
Send in your Power Supply For Repair: nickselectronics.com/products/un75h7150afxza
Fix it yourself with our kit: nickselectronics.com/products/samsung-bn44-00725a-power-supply-parts-kit
Nice straight to the point, no distractions, no 40 seconds of intro = thumbs up!
Good to see someone that has EXPERIENCE doing the work! The only thing I would have done differently would be to wait on soldering the heatsink until I powered up the unit. If it immediately blew out the transistors again due to some other fault it would be much easier to replace them.
Yeah that's a good point!
I always tell people not to put the back cover on the TV before powering on the set because if they made a mistake and forgot to plug in a wire or didn't plug a ribbon in correctly they have to take everything apart again. Same principle.
Good Job! Note: a lot of folks might not know that the center diode is a double diode, that's why it looks like a transistor
A good trick is to just look at the location ID and see what letter is used for the identifier.
I love it! 80s / 90s style soldapult repair! I've had one in my toolbox for 45 years.
soldapult?
@@NicksTVRepair Your 'Desolder Pump' is marketed as 'SOLDAPULLT'. /// The name “SOLDAPULLT” is a clever play on words combining “solder” and “catapult.” This reflects the tool’s function: it uses a spring-loaded mechanism to “catapult” or pull away solder during desoldering processes.
Guys who do a lot of on the bench work gravitate towards hollow tipped desoldering stations... but I still use this Soldapullt tool because it's 2nd nature and I don't do that much board work anymore.
Heck... 2 for $10 on Amazon is better than $1000 plus for a station...
Yeah we have a desolder station but indeed I only use it if I have to do a lot of desoldering. This I don't consider to be a lot, so ill use the pump. I like it better, it's simpler.
I have repaired a 60 inch Samsung motherboard. I baked it in the oven for 15 minutes. By the way I see the boards don't really cost all that much. But can be fun to fix them if you have the time. Great repair by the way.
I would be careful with the oven baking, it's easy to make them irreparable. But as you said as long as there are replacements available for cheap, why not give it a try and yes indeed repairing stuff is very fun!
You might be surprised at how much better that braid works if you add a couple drops of liquid flux to it. 😊
Wow! Last repairer left on this planet. One small step but a great leap to save our planet.
Thank you! And yes very important to repair. It should go Reduce, reuse, repair, recycle.
AI cant replace us
@@rodrigoetoobe2536 But Kamala will find the border perhaps one day?
Great video pal. Very concise and informative. Good to find another techie who's both knowledgeable and good with the iron
Thank you for your kind comment!
Been doing it for 10 years ish now. I don't solder nearly as much as I used to at first now that I have 7 employees, but I still love picking up the iron and repairing stuff.
That was fascinating to see! I can design and create PCBs to get working, but I would suck trying to understand other people's boards! I'd literally be lost knowing where to even look. So this was awesome.
I am happy you liked the video!
Excellent illustration and informative troubleshooting. One tip I've learned when using the solder wick, spread it out "pull it side to side" then it will absorb the solder even better. Anyway, well done.
Thanks for the info!
When desoldering use flux & low melt solder for easy removal of components.
@@LouinVB yup it’s a life saver.
That was great! I've always been interested in electrical engineering. These videos make me wish I had pursued it. Feels so good bringing life back to equipment that requires dollars worth of replacement parts and some time.
You can do it!
Life long hobby that can take you back in a minute.
I really enjoyed watching this I am in the UK and we get a couple of electronic repair people on you tube and i do watch them simply because I had a stroke and lost some of my memory which is terrible when you are trying to repair something and for get how to test them I am also a Radio ham so it is vital i get that memory back
,thanks for the Video
Fantastic work, you explained everything. Good clean, efficient job. Thank you !
Thank you very much!
Vielen dank, ich werde das gegebenenfalls mit dem nächsten Fernseher oder generell einem elektroartikel einmal probieren... Bin komplett neu in der materie, fange gerade erst mit Tutorials an wie man Elektronik durchmisst
Phenomenal!
My Samsung TV has no standby light. Checked the plug fuse and have limited knowledge beyond this. However, I did open up and disconnect the cable between the two boards. I still have no back light. I am now tempted to replace the Power Supply Board. Is this a reasonable course of action?
What is the model number of your TV?
It sure does sound like a power supply failure. We can probably fix it for cheaper than a replacement, however and even more importantly, having the board fixed will probably last longer than buying a used one. The reason I say this is because we replace the defective parts with higher quality than factory so the failure never reoccurs. This ensures that our repaired board lasts longer than a brand new one would.
@@NicksTVRepairthanks for the response. I have a samsung ue65nu8000T. I would have preferred a repair through yourselves but have now ordered a replacement board. I came across your video since then. Do you also repair the main boards?
If the replacement doesn’t fix the issue, can I ship both to you for repair/inspection please?
We don't do the mainboards for this model because they almost never fail. It's usually the power supply or panel we see fail.
Was that a low melt solder you were adding to make it easier to remove? Just came across your channel and thats really clean work you are doing.
Thank you very much!
The solder I use is leaded and has flux in it, that could be why it looks like low melt. It's not technically low melt but it flows way better than none leaded that's for sure.
This is a link to it if you want to buy the same:
amzn.to/4cMy6jv
I love electronics being brought back to working condition...
Great video! It's crazy expensive but the Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun is transformative. Once you try one you'll never go back to braid or pumps.
Yeah we have one and have done several videos with it in the past.
Its pretty good, but does require a lot of maintenance. Definitely can't use flux with it or it will for sure clog up.
Great Video thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and saving this board's and tv's from going to the land field im a Diy love to fix electronics still have ways to go in learning but i learn a lot from people like you that share their knowledge with us Thank you Nick
No problem, glad I can help!
Hello sir . That was a great work done , I really admire your workshop and study repair factor. Please kindly show the number display on the MOSFET so that we will also know more. Thank you sir.
Awesome video, straight forward and easy to follow.
I appreciate the feedback!
Very good explanation and details. Thanks for making this video.
Nice explanation and straight to the point. Perfect!
Thank you for your nice comment
i am from Ethiopia you are godd treacher tnx sr
You are very welcome!
This video is very helpful....I'm learning how to do component level testing, but our tv is having a weird problem. It was working fine except for a few defusers that fell off and a few dead leds.... so i replaced the led strips.
Now the LEDs strips flashes and i verified with my multimeter that the output voltage to LEDs irregularly fluctuates between 0v and 40v, leading me to think the power supply is faulty.
What might you suggest to look into on the power board?
Most likely you have a bad connection somewhere. I would highly recommend you start by double checking that all of the connections are proper. When I say connections I mean every wire connecting to the LED strips and the led strips to one another.
finally another great channel! I love mend it mark videos and this is pretty good
Glad you enjoy it!
Great video Nick. Flux.is ur friend... as Alex from.northridge says... u can never have too much flux. I saw u did use any.
There is actually flux imbeded in the solder we use. Flux is there to help if you don't have good solder flow. I feel like I had good solder flow, and didn't need to use more than what was already in the imbeded in the solder.
wish soldered as good as that. wow he made soldering look easy.
You can do it!
Thank you nick for this lesson, it was very helpful
You're very welcome!
@@NicksTVRepair there’s a plasma TV while watching it goes off, when I try to on it immediately it doesn’t come on until after a long period. What do you suggest could be the problem?
Cracked solder joints on the power supply
Very nice work and highly informative video.
Thank you.
You are welcome
Www! Good job, great performance, thanks! Greetings from Brazil.
Thank you very much!
Great video! Thank you for spreading your knowledge!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job ! nice to follow,. You gain a new member, from France...
Welcome aboard!
Outstanding Work 📺
Thank you! Cheers!
Am watching from malawi
far, ur gud at wat u do, tanx u
Sometimes, the TH-cam algorithm throws a diamond my way. Liked and subscribed.
Alright! Thanks for the sub!
Good de-soldering tutorial
Great Work from Ireland 🧐🙂🇮🇪☘️
Thank you! Cheers!
Just wondering, what caused the mofset’s to blow out?
It's a 2014 TV so I would say 10 years of use probably caused the mosfets to blow out.
Luv your stuff Nick, keep doing the good stuff
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Great work 👌👏💯
Thanks 🔥
Great work sir ❤😊
Thanks a lot 😊
Thank yuo pan tivi power hapy love time !!!!!❤❤❤
Haha you are very welcome
Simply 👍👌👍
Thanks
Mr sorin explains this more simplier and easier. Thanks for your repair.
Never heard of Mr Sorin. Who is that?
@@NicksTVRepair Electronics Repair School channel. BTW - you do a great clear and concise job in a 9 minute video. Doesn't get much simpler and easier.
Thanks @djmips
Hello, i have subcribed and liked and below,
I have a couple of questions.
How are you able to tell what pins to test in beep mode.
How do you know the orientation of the transistor/diode.
How can you identify a component as a diode,transistor(npn,pnp)
So the easy way to identify the components without having to look up data sheets every time is by their ID location. If the ID location of a component starts with the letter D then it's a diode. If it's a Q then it's a transistor. L for inductor, F for fuse, R for resistor, and C is for capacitor.
Those are the most common ones.
As for NPN or PNP transistors, it won't matter in terms of testing, none of the legs are supposed to be shorted to one another. So if you detect a short then most likely that transistor is bad. However, sometimes the circuit can be designed that way so it's always good to recheck them once they are out of the circuit to confirm A the part you removed is shorted, and B that the short is no longer present in the circuit. Had I only removed the 1 shorted transistor and not the diode, I would have still detected a short in the circuit even after removing the shorted transistor.
Makes sense?
Pretty cool thanks .
You bet
Amazing, thank you
Glad you liked it!
GOOD REPAIR BUT DO YOU REPAIR LATE MODEL P SUPPLIES
Which ones are you asking about?
Keep it up Nick!
Hey Malek! Thanks bud, will do!
Hi, first time to see your uploads. Fantastic and I very much look forward to seeing more👏👏👏Do you also repair Main Boards with software issues and if so how much would it cost please?
Regards, Brian👍👏🏴👍👏🏴
Depends on the mainboard and the repair required. If it's a Nand chip repair usually less expensive than eMMC software repair.
What is the exact part number of the mainboard you would like to have us fix and also if you can provide symptoms.
@ Hi, thank you for your reply. The TV is a Philips 55PUS64001/12 and the main board is: 715G7776-M01-B00-005K. Fault, When attempting to switch on I get the following request: Android Recovery Philips/QM16exe_U/QM16XE_U 8.0.0/OPR5. 170623.014/026680 user/release-keys Any button cycles highlight. Long-press activates.
Reboot system now
Apply update from SD card
Wipe cache partition.
I tried to use a keyboard to reboot the system but obviously didn’t work. Corrupted firmware I believe.
Can you fix it? Where are you based and how much would the fix be please?
Regards,
Brian
This does sound like a software failure. And while we do fix software failures often, we require a good version of the software to be able to fix the TV. Without it, we can't perform a repair. Unfortunately, we don't have software for any Philips TVs so I won't be able to help you there. I would recommend trying to replace the mainboard if possible.
@ thanks again for your reply. Ok will keep my eye out for a cheap board.
A good video thanks !
Great repair. I was uneasy watching your wrist over the 350V caps...I'm not confident enough in my own ability not to slip.
Yeah everyone is saying that in the comments, but the thing is that it really wasn't that close. I know it looks like it could be due to the camera angle, but if you had a different angle from the side you would realize there was at least 2 inches of space between my arm and the board.
Great info thank you !
My pleasure!
I haven't seen a TV repairer since I was a kid, and that was in the 90s
nice repair!
Thank you! Cheers!
You should put out a course to teach how to do this. I'd buy it
I actually have been thinking about putting a few videos together and putting up a soldering course. I don't know if I will be doing a troubleshooting course but maybe in the future.
Are you aware of Electronics Repair school channel?
Romanian guy who lives in UK.
He fixes laptops mostly and also does a phenomenal job
I think I have heard of them but never seen the videos
@@NicksTVRepair guy is very good
Ill have to check it out when i get a chance then
Good vid. But I'm really surprised you don't use a power desoldering tool instead of the manual solder sucker.
We have the FR301 as well as the solder sucker and desolder wick. The FR301 can be more convenient but only when I have to do a lot of desoldering in one go. It takes a bit of time to get up to temp, it requires maintenance and routine cleaning and stays super hot for super long which means you have to go put it far away so no one accidentally burns themselves when you are done with it. It can just be a hassle so if I only have 3 components with few legs to desolder it doesn't make sense for me to use it. I would rather just use the desolder pump and wick. If I have a through hole IC with 32 pins then sure ill bust it out.
100eur desoldering station with vacuum pump is 100000x better than those spring pumps, they are a bit fiddly and may need small tweaks and fixes to work well, mine had a problem with seal behind the heater, but overall performance is so much better than the handheld pump
it isn't as useful for these single sided boards, but for multilayer there really is no comparison
We have 2 FR-301 desolder pump/iron in the shop, they are pretty good for tougher jobs, but I wouldn't say it's 1,000 times better. The none electric desoldering pump I used in this video does also do the job well. The joints with those crowns are typically a bit tougher though and require the use of desolder wick. I probably could have gotten the solder off those tougher joints faster with the desoldering iron/pump but I don't know I also like the manual pump.
I usually only use the FR-301 if it's a lot of joints like say some of the 18 throughole pin IC's or displays we replace for the oven control boards. This wasn't very many pins to desolder and only a couple were the tougher kind.
Great job 🎉🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent , Thank you☘☘☘☘☘.
Many thanks
Emeğine sağlık ustam. Teşekkürler. Sağlık ve huzur dolu günler dilerim. Türkçe altyazı çevirisini de ekleyebilir misiniz. ❤❤❤
Ziyaretiniz ve güzel sözleriniz için teşekkür ederiz.
Az önce Türkçe altyazı ekledim, tekrar izlemeyi deneyin ve işe yarayıp yaramayacağını görün.
@@NicksTVRepair Teşekkür ederim . Sağlıklı günler dilerim.
Thank you !
You're welcome!
GOOD JOB BRO.NICE
Thanks ✌
This is all very nice but how did you know to go to those components? Whee is the schematic for this board which would identify the parts what they do and expected voltages to check?
With out this stuff this is just a glorified soldering lesson, something I can do well already.
Nice job!
Thanks for the visit
Thanks 🙏👍💯😊
Wish you were in Kenya. This expertise is missing here desperately.
Are you a TV tech in Kenya?
thanks
No problem
Hello. Do you have information about Samsung bn44-01049a
What kind of information are you looking for? What symptoms are you experiencing? What have you done so far for troubleshooting?
Very very good
Thanks
Well explaied
Thank you
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@NicksTVRepair I am learning. Just bought a microscope and hot air station.
Oh nice! if you don't mind me asking, what microscope and hot air station?
@@NicksTVRepair Amscoupe and BST 863 air station
@@NicksTVRepair Have a 4k camera on my microscope and 27 inch 4 k lg monitor for it. Have a Hako 951 Iron.
For anyone at home, be extra careful if you perform a live test. The mains voltage is no joke.
I have never shocked my self on a live set while it's plugged in, but I have shocked my self on a power supply disconnected from power that still had plenty of juice, and boy that wakes you up. I wouldn't recommend.
I would also suggest being careful when you hold th psu@ 8:59 @@NicksTVRepair
Don't worry, I have a discharging tool I use to make sure it's safe to handle after live testing.
Lot of components.. i can do my diy with those.
I think I would have checked the capacitors that are on the output rails also.
So we actually almost never see capacitors fail on LED power supply boards. That was a common issue on plasma and LCD models however. Now with that said of course there are always exceptions, there are a few specific power supplies for which we see ceramic caps go bad but for this unit I have never encountered that. That's why we don't typically check them for this model power supply.
My samsung tv UN55MU6290F toast after lightning, power light comes on, but power button or remote control wont work tuvturn it on. Any idea what could be and how much would it cost to fix it. Houston, Tx.
The fault you are experiencing is likely a mainboard failure and not power supply as most people believe is the case with a lightning strike. We charge this much to fix the mainboard:
nickselectronics.com/products/bn94-12662z
Get a nice Hakko de-soldering station, you won't regret it.
We already have 2. They are okay.
Nice job! Special Respect from Iran ❤
Thanks
Hi, new here but have a ?. Do you do ar's?
Of course we?
Please add Turkish subtitles.😊
Why did the transistor/diode fail?
I beleive it's just normal wear and tear over time. The TV this power supply came from is 10 years old after all.
Nice video, but i do have a question, what is the most likely culprit to cause a ceramic cap to go pop? The tv showed no signs of life, then when plugging in to another socket it killed a cap
Normal wear and tear
Transistor in line with it shorts out
Those are the top 2 reasons why it would go out.
@@NicksTVRepair thanks for the reply, will have a gander at the tv later
Use diode mode to test diodes and transistors, not ohm-mode🤦 You can test the N-FET body diode with positive to source (pin 3, right) negative to drain (pin 2, middle). And you can even test if it turns on: negative to source, touch positive to gate (pin1, left), now positive to drain should show short until you discharge the gate by shorting it to one of the other pins.
Once you get better at fixing things and you understand what your meter is doing when it's in diode mode VS resistance and how it behaves when things are good VS defective and you then understand that you can actually use it interchangeably. I could have used the meter in diode mode to test the transistor and could have told you if it was good or bad. I can also use the meter in resistance to test the diode. Heck I could use the diode mode to test a fuse or resistors (depending on the resistance) and tell you if they are good or not. Just have to know what to expect.
@@NicksTVRepair Sure, you can use the ohm mode on a diode, but what does that tell you about it? In diode mode you can see the voltage drop which differs for diode types (schottky, fast recovery etc). There's no spec for megaohms of a diode. Also some multimeters don't show anything for a diode in ohm range. Use the proper tool for the job.
For mosfets I always test the body diode. I didn't see you do that. Also test if they turn on. Did you know you can turn on a mosfet with your multimeter in diode mode like I explained?
That white glue absorbs moisture and eventually causes a short circuit. Always remove it!
Good to know!
Nick I have a background in an Electronics but I have been in a coma and paralyzed years ago I need a refresher course if capacitors read o l on the ohms meter are they bad my church soundboard went out and I'm trying to fix it. I'm a computer nut I'm trying to get organized . Any help or advice for the helpful to me but you can see by my name I'm not a quitter.
Hello,
To properly test a capacitor you should use an ESR meter and capacitance meter.
I do exactly that in this video linked below that I published just last weekend:
th-cam.com/video/yW7qUYb1hI0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kwCxe0lQ3Sekowc2
There are cheap component testers that will measure capacitor value and ESR rating.
High ESR caps can do wierd things to digital circuits.
Watch more of sorin and you'll understand these things better.
your going to need to be less cryptic. who is sorin and what "things" are you reffering to.
Whyt not use flux for easier removal?
Flux is only necessary if you have a hard time with getting proper flow of the solder. This was not the case here.
Good
Thanks
@@NicksTVRepair your all video very good every times watching something new to learning thanks for sharing knowledge almighty bless you more knowledge health n wealth.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
These videos are also self serving, this is how we get word out that we fix a lot of these things so it gets us more business.
How did you know the "transistor" in the middle was not a transistor but a diode? Did you look it up have a schematic or were there symbols on the board?
Each component has a location ID next to it. It's small text printed on the circuit board. The location ID starts with a letters then numbers. The letters tell you the type of component it is. A diode starts with a D, a transistor starts with a Q, a resistor with an R, a fuse with an F, and IC chips start with the letters IC.
So it doesn't tell you much more in depth info as to what kind of diode it is but at least I know it's a diode.
Where are you from?
Tucson Arizona is the business location
Can you add Turkish subtitles?
Nice one Nick, appreciate your videos!
What's the purpose of the silicone on the fets and why don't you re-apply after repair?
Thank you and good question. The reason I didn't re-apply after is because it's an extra step that I don't see making any positive difference to the functionality of the circuit board. I saw these coming in after a few years of manufacturing, and I have not added new silicone after repairs and have seen my repairs outlast the original PCB's life time.
Why is it there in the first place? I don't know the answer for sure, but I have been told that it helps reduce vibration. What does that do and how does that affect the circuit board? again I don't know.
I would love to know the reason, but from my perspective right now, my repairs last just as long if not longer than the original PCB did after manufacturing so I don't see the advantage of adding silicone to the legs other than adding an extra step to the repair process.
How much to fix a Vizio power board I had it fixed once lasted about 3 months and blew again
What is the part number of the board?
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
:)
Nicely done
Thank you