This Part Can Wreak Havoc On Your John Deere Lawn Tractor!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- This Part Can Wreak Havoc On Your John Deere Lawn Tractor!
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➡Watch next; Teardown Of The Blown Up John Deere Lawn Tractor Engine!
➡th-cam.com/video/LiwDX5aYS7A/w-d-xo.html
I really enjoyed that old teardown video!👍
Great repair advice aside, I want to thank you for using - and _spelling_ - the phrase "wreak havoc" correctly!
Thanks for the video! First, so many people think this is a big box store John Deere. This model is dealer only. I had this issue with my 2010 x534 a three years ago, but it would always start right back up and keep going. Finally, I found an another TH-camr that mentioned this module. I replaced it and the problem has not happened since. This has been the best mower I've ever owned. I'm old and I've owned many.
on some older craftsman chippers the blades will freeze on their pivot shaft so materal will not exit the housing...
I dare anyone to explain the logic of having computer controls and digital displays on a friggin riding lawn mower. It's a riding lawn mower not a space shuttle. This is why I stick to my good old Briggs and Kohler flatheads. Geeeeeez
Some rich kid gets his start at life selling chips when dad had his chip installed on a major brand. Made his first million off our backs like the ticks they are. 🤠👍
I know you were sticking to the subject, but you forgot to mention furnaces, ac units, washers, dryers, and the list goes on and on.
@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 they have lots of kids.
Exactly. My old rider is just basic.
Well without the computer controls and modules, they wouldn't need to have the voltage change in so many other places. This is a cash cow for them. You CAN'T BYPASS any of it because the voltage differences in different locations would just burn up something else. They knew EXACTLY what they were doing when they made these changes. They are trying to Bypass the regular guy fixing his own mower. Now MOST will take it to an "Authorized Dealer" for these repairs.
Great video great tip as always. Enjoy watching your videos.👍
Great information thankyou.What you do is blessing a lot of peaple,
tks don
Had my 10 - 12 year old X-540 in to dealer several times for that exact same description, good to know, got mine back and used once, we'll see ! Thanks
Thank you SO much. I try to take care of my x320 and will have one of these modules on hand as she's getting older. I'm grateful my machine doesn't look like the one in the video.
Thanks for your help
Good to know! Thanks for the tip.😊
Great learning video
I have a S240 ,,2015 no issues yet. Just wear and tear parts like pulleys etc
I have an x500 and its never been in the shop. Very interesting video and if I do have that issue I can thank Don for the tip!
Thanks Donnie sir.
What a GREAT time saving video once again. Thanks
Wow This information is Priceless Thanks a lot
Awesome TY for Sharing
Some rough service on that one !! Nice fix👍
You are the wizard in Canada.
I good video. I am still using my JD316. I will certainly keep this in mind though just in case I do get a newer tractor. My JD316 is 25 years old and still running strong. I spent a lot to keep it up and running, just not comfortable yet on getting a newer tractor. I hear too many problems with the newer tractors.
The safety circuit on these riding mowers is very complex indeed. Would love to see an actual wiring diagram someday so I can understand all the switches and wiring involved...
thanks for sharing have a x350 about 3years old so far so good
The X350 does not have a separate Interlock Module, it is integrated into the instrument panel. $350+
👍👍👍.Thank you
Keep up the great work
Next they'll be adding an ODB2 port and need a scanner to diagnose these things... :)
And/or somehow put that module out of the interior/heat accumulation, especially when shut down after use?
Well, if small engine technology kept up with automotive engine technology we would have more efficient, and thus more reliable engines. It did wonders for cars. Most cars built before fuel injection had a tendency to break down, and now you have cars where most of the time taking it to the shop is changing the oil or working on other issues not pertaining to the engine.
@@WJCTechyman I disagree entirely. I know many, many folks with newer cars full of electronics that require extremely expensive diagnostic equipment, not to mention subscriptions to services with all the latest info, tech, recalls, updates, etc. for all the models, who have had nothing but headaches getting their cars fixed. One friend still has her C-Max that randomly will NOT turn the radio off when the car is shut off. Several trips to dealer have resulted in no fix other than to "disconnect the battery under the hood" to stop it. Her fix, courtesy of me, was to find which fuse the radio is on, and keep a puller handy when it happens to shut it off. Or my 2017 chevy where you cannot turn the radio OFF (although it does turn off when the car is off). You have to turn the volume all the way down instead. While fuel injection on cars is amazing at the mpg and lessening pollutants, it too is a real headache when it's not working right, from having to have TWO fuel pumps (with on IN the gas tank and on many models you have to remove the tank entirely (often quite an operation in itself, including having to drain most, if not all the gasoline), to a minor electrical problem stopping the vehicle entirely. Don't get me wrong, the current vehicles are amazing items of technology, but the complexity doesn't make them "better". Taking the lead of gasoline inproved engine longevity a HUGE amount, not some special tech solution.
As for my lawn mower engine, it's probably over 30 years old (flat head briggs and stratton), it still works great, starts after a pull or two. I have a very small lawn and really don't want to spend $400+ for a battery one where the batteries (lithium) are a cause for pollution and huge energy requirements, but disposal is also an issue. I use a plug in electric weed wacker for getting edges, etc. cleaned up.
I watched the video out of interest even though I don't own a JD mower , I do however have an MTD in the back shed with a broken plastic bonnet , I'll say this , if I was looking at buying a brand new ride on mower , I would skip ANY that had a plastic bonnet . They all get hit eventually and break , make it out of steel if you want me to buy it . Thanks for the info Dony , filed away in case I ever need it , cheers .
I agree, the dash on this one is all cracked and loose!
Well that's funny, my J.D. 155c, 48" deck with that plastic "bonnet" hood has no breaks in it at all. Other than dirt it is just like when it was new. Maybe because I don't bash it into machinery and stuff I mow around or store stuff on it. I'm careful when I take it off too. So that's 17 yrs. old and 740hrs. mowing around a bunch of stuff on the farm without a scratch on it. Just bought a 2007 LA150 and the hood & dash are in great shape also. No, they are not super fragile, and all get smashed.
BUY A ZERO TURN MOWER
@@beachbums2008Then the fender pods crack and the controls rattle about! Can’t win! But in all fairness, smaller spans of unsupported plastic with a ZTR, so you are technically correct. 👍
My JD Sabre 1542 is going on 24 years. Plastic hood and other plastic like new. This used on 1 1/2 acres in Florida which means mowing year round.
Interesting
Good day Don Boy too bad, more electronics . Thanks
i have heard that a brake light switch on a lambourgini will cause it to not go into gear.. as a lot of wires are connected to the switch...
Having digital components help get the price higher, and helps fund the part makers.simply dollars out of your pocket.
Open your hood to allow the heat to escape..when you stop for a break.( i do this on my older gatden tractors always...)....it might be all you need to do to solve the overheat issue?? Free too....
Install a small 12 Volt fan to blow across the Electronic part ( a computer fan is cheap or Free )..
Put a heat shield under the part to keep hot air from engine directly hitting the part...leave a small space between part and shield ... anything free would be simple to do that...or spend a few bucks??
I own a X300 and blew that part from jump starting the battery for a few weeks.
Good tip but don't think 150 bucks is too cheap as you say, but we have to pay the Deere green (tax) I suppose.
Replaced it on my X500 twice already. First time it took 6 months of diagnostic effort to id the problem! Approximately $100. FYI, never, never jump start the X series tractors the surge will blow that module. That JD module is like that JD plastic hood, in the video, cheap junk.
Excellent
I’ve been boosting with a 12 v 550 amp battery on a cart
I’m hoping it is safer than the high dallor short life boost boxes
Duck tape ..... the handymans secret weapon. ( Red Green ). LOL !!
Canada’s third best export…
1. Molsen
2. Trailer park boys
3. Red Green
Your results may vary.
@@crabcake43011 Well, Red Green would definitely be in my top three, also CANDU and other Canadian nuclear contributions in general, not sure about beer or trailer park boys.
Could you also get the same symptom if the coil was bad? Start get hot shut off, then restart when cooled off. Just wondering.
How about moving the part to the outside of the mower?
On the newer X3/X5-series with the LCD instrument panel, the Interlock Module is now integrated into the display panel and the replacement cost is over $350.
You wanna run green machines ???? you're gonna pay !!!!!!!
Thank you, good to know. I had (have) a problem with my JD X300 where the engine dies after a few minutes of operation, starts to splutter like its running out of gas. After resting for about half an hour, it starts up and runs again, usually without any more trouble. This would happen on an irregular basis...I removed the carburetor and cleaned it out, changed the plugs, cleaned the air filter, but no difference. Then, one time when it quit, I got the idea that the fuel filter might be plugged even though it was also new. This time, when I removed the hose from the gas filter, I heard a suction sound like air rushing though the hose...I had a vacuum in the gas tank. I think my gas cap vent is plugged and the vacuum prevented fuel from flowing to the carburetor. I should replace the cap, but I haven't so far...whenever the engine starts to splutter, I loosen the gas tank cap and it starts working properly again. Have you heard of this before?
Used to hear about it weekly, when I was still at the shop.
I had the same Problem a few years back on an x540, which I still own. Don you are spot on - mine failed after I boosted a bad battery. After replacing it with the new ECU module, the problem never came back, but I won't put a booster on the unit again.
Is a booster?
Jump pack,battery, charger???
Inquiring mine would like to know.
Thanks in advance sir
A booster pack is generally a device that can throw an extra power load to your onboard battery through an external connection. Some of these devices are just plain boosters, some are large battery charges that allow you to send extra amps to your battery to try and jump start a dead battery immediately.
Another reason I keep on using my 1980 John Deere 111 hydro! There is no reason to put computer controls on lawn tractors.
Excellent I had a old Wheelhorse and never had to replace the points
That broken hood is why I am not too fond of John Deere's choice of plastic for body panels. When it's brand new, yeah, you can drop a bowling ball on it and it won't dent but after a few years and you do the same, this is the result. To add insult to injury, these plastic pieces, from what I heard are incredibly expensive to replace. Metal is something that you can at least work out and re-paint if necessary. I'm not really a fan of other things Deere has chosen for its tractors as well, but that's a different story.
I find it interesting that a some of these tractors can't take a booster pack (even the Noco ones?) as they have the same voltage. If you can't boost them, how is it you can disconnect and reconnect the battery?
Thanks Don, enjoy your videos.I am getting older and considering buying a lawn tractor but after watching your videos i am not too sure about buying one. They are expensive and seem to have lots of issues. I keep all my equipment in tip top shape. Learned so much from you. keep up the great work.
BUY A ZERO TURN MOWER AND CUT YOUR MOWING TIME CONSIDERABLY
Hi job is to see broken equipment. They are very reliable & a huge time saver.
@@beachbums2008 The bad thing about "Zero Turn Machines" is that they have TWO hydraulic trans to go bad. Unless you find an old "Dixon".
@@beachbums2008 As far as I know, you cannot mount a snow plow on a zero turn mower. I use one from JD that works very well on my x300 during the winter. The snow plow capability was the deciding factor in my choice of mower. So far I have had zero issues - knocking on wood! Yes, zero turn mowers seem to be faster - much faster.
Is there a way to cut a vent close to the part or shield it from the heat?
Lesson: Don't buy a John Deere. Look at the state of that seat!
Jumping car batteries is a not recommended as well. ECMs can be a real challenge to troubleshoot. Great information.
When I took delivery of my new car in 2017 the salesman at the dealer explicitly told me NOT to give or receive jumpstarts as the consequences could end up being costly as it cold cause damage to the (many) ECMs. Using a start-booster pack with an on/off swich that is connected and then turned on would be safe for the car.. This might based on what Dony said not be advisable for a ride-on mower though..
You sir, are amazing! I have to ask, was the owner's name Red Green, eh!
Your customer needs to put a $27 Deere seat cover over seat.
That one part is the pain in the back side when you are trying to cut the grass
Good advice, thank you!
I am surprised at how worn this tractor is.
This appears to be a relatively new machine but the seat and engine cover need to be replaced already...
The X500 is older than you think guy may leave mower out in sun and weather a lot and kills seat material quick although that seat looks excessive to me to usually just get like cracks across the sharpest bends in it and face it seat material not what it used to be......500 series is Deeres mid grade machines so made cheaper also.
@stevedibiase728 I see, however the overall look is still good that's why it's a shame some components cannot last as the rest of the machine.
Based on the date code on the bad part, it's about12 years old.
Deere hoods are not very strong. Cheap plastic. Well, cheap for them--try pricing a new one! Ours has epoxy and drywall mesh on the back where the cracks were starting.
@@joelracicot 12 years is not that much in my opinion as it's not something you use on a daily base normaly.
Definitely needs some type of heat sink for that part
$90 on eBay in US.
👍👍👍
I am curious if my X754 (diesel) might have that switch?
Thanks for the heads up brother hopefully I never come across a JD tractor with that module on it. that’s ridiculous what they want for that module.
definitely no need for this design!
@@donyboy73 just another expensive moneymaker for JD I’m assuming. that’s what I get out of it anyways. it ain’t no good for anything else but another headache for the consumer to deal with.
X300 & X500 Series tractors, that's a lot of machines.
Its a damn riding mower, doesn't need electronics on it..
I don't have a John Deere, but I'm sure my Troy-Bilt and Craftsman lawn tractors have a similar device. What do you mean by "Boost" it, please? A specific kind of Charger, high charging Amps or what? What year was this new controller module implemented, please? My Craftsman is a 2007 model and Troy-Bilt is 2011.
I use a battery maintainer that only gives like a 2.5A Max (or less) at first and then trickle charges once charged to maintain the charge. I haven't had to use it with the new 350 Cold Cranking Amps battery I bought. It had a 230 CCA battery (like I see now the manual says at a Minimum), but it wouldn't charge, so I bought a 350 CCA for less battery strain and hopefully a longer-lasting battery. I bought it because it was hard to start, but I fixed all of that with a new carb (lost internal parts, so I was afraid to rebuild), a breather hose, some other parts and lapping the valves, so now it starts easily and runs great again. Now I'll only use the battery maintainer during Winter storage after Winterizing first, but I'll have it if I need it.
Thanks for all you do, Don. I might have found the controller module the hard way, not knowing it had one.
Hi I enjoy your videos you did one on the quick change oil filter on the john deer lawnmower. I have a s 130 and I need the part number's to change it over to a regular oil filter. At $80.a pop the quick is to expensive and it leaves to much dirty oil in the engine.
I never liked that 30 second oil change, I when with the S100 John Deere a few weeks ago. My friend was telling me I need to change the oil after 10hrs cutting, because shavings get in the engine from the factory, I don't know how true that is.
😊👍
Part cost me nearly $300 (part & install) last year.
Hi, if it happens you can make a video on a husqvarna 4x4 rider
FYI: I've heard if you try to jump start the Tractor, it will fry the Module.
Does it get too hot? Maybe if it had a little heatsink or hest shield or auxillary fan to keep it cool?
It's a potted assembly so the electronic components not only can't shed the heat they may generate; or are subjected to by the engine, but the components that don't generate heat and are sensitive to heat are trapped.
It's a logical build method for electronics that are exposed to moisture but as with everything these days the components are sourced based on price more over quality and longevity.
@@gregoryking9348 So? Do what auto manufacturers do and make the casing out of cast aluminum with dissipation fins and pot the electronics then. Heck, even inverter generators for the computer and supporting hardware is made this way. These machines are expensive enough to warrant that. The voltage regulator on my Kohler engines are made this way.
It sucks that stuff is less expensive in the US compared to here in Canada.
This particular machine, is it EFI just judging by how it takes a few seconds to shut off, when the key is turned off.
I can only imagine what the John Deere dealership would charge to diagnose this issue.
Wish this video was out a couple years ago.. I fought this for a year, replaced a bunch of parts finally gave up sent it to dealer and they replaced this part.
Dony - Thank you for all that you do - Love your videos. If you are using a simply using a 12volt jump box and nothing that plugs in to a wall as you have is that an issue also?
He's talking about a Battery Charger with " Boost " setting...a Jump box is just another battery that has enough voltage and amperage to assist in starting a weak battery....boosting by using another same voltage battery and jumper cables is safe too.... boosting ( jumper cables ) from a running vehicle is normally ok but shutting the good vehicle off would be safe.. it should be ok when running but voltages could be higher ( although 99.9% of the time it should be ok )... basically a " Boost " setting on a Battery charger is what he is saying is what i believe what he is concerned with.... i been fixing vehicles for 50 plus years..
And trying to recharge a weak or dead battery is always a safer way to get a vehicle started.... in all cases.... using a good charged ( or at least close to fully charged ) battery and battery booster cables is 100 % safe on any vehicles....i try to start charging to at least give the dead battery some voltage up near 12 volts and check the bad battery before boosting it... nowadays i use chargers that give me some testing or diagnose and have hand held testers too...and Jump packs nowadays are simple ways to get a vehicle started enough to move or start testing the charging output or " home " lol
@@garymallard4699 thanks appreciate all of the additional information.
Another great video. Thanks! I have a John Deere X320 so this is good to know.
I have a question! - I have a John Deere X320 with a Hydrostatic Transmission. My lawn is an old farm field and grows very quick. Usually I need to use a tow behind lawn sweeper to pick up the leftover grass clippings. Should I run my engine at full/mid/low idle when the mower blades are NOT engaged and i'm using the mower with the tow lawn sweeper!
Thanks from Nova Scotia!
I would run it a mid throttle.
I think I would by pass all.of that.
Don love your channel. I have a Honda 217hrx carb clean and good . Cable linkage good pre thermo wax choke . Use to start with one pull now it takes 6-7 pulls to start. Help me to return to one pull . Thanks
@danohagan94 - I have 3 217HRX, only one with an autochoke. Eliminate a spark issue by first checking/verifying coil gap, then replace spark plug. If it still happens, you still have a fuel delivery issue. Check/adjust the choke so that it closes all the way. After that, you should be back to the one pull start. Once you do get it running, check for air leaks at all the gaskets.
Have you had any issues with the wiring harnesses that connects to that part? Thanks! 👍👍
Not at all
But how do you find that out that sounds like a coil to John deer junk
You constantly remind me how glad I am that I don’t have a riding mower / zero turn from a big box store.
2nd thought, I suspect many of these are bought by folks limited by a budget who wind up with expensive surprises like plastic transmission housings, fake overpriced oil changes and cheapened internal engine parts. Doesn’t seem fair what happens to these folks who put their trust in a big name.
i never even thought about damaging these by boosting , thanks . i'm guessing it's safe to use a battery charger , as long as you don't turn ignition on ? electronic ignition is nice , but when i have to cough up $150 , i wish we still just had points and condensers .
Disconnect the battery first, then charge. It will fry the module if left connected. Could also damage other electronics.
Unfortunately 90 percent of the John Deere garden tractors you buy at the big box stores are garbage and don't last. For one reason or another we live in a throwaway society.
It's sad when great mechanics like Dony have to work on the garbage that these companies are putting out.
Would I find one of these on an s120 John Deere? Thanks again Don for the tip.
not sure, just look under the dash
Thanks Donny. My older X320 has that module. I have found that the 10+ Rectangular Connector just above the Fuse Block can be problematic in energizing the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. When you turn the key to ON you should be able to hear it click and if you are touching it, you can feel it energize. I have cleaned mine with a spray foam electrical cleaner (ZEP) that works very well. Someone has really abused that X500. X models have a totally different deck suspension and make a beautiful job of cutting on uneven ground. Actually made by JD I have heard. When you mention Boosting, do you mean from a vehicle or as I suspect, another Battery? I have read that from a vehicle, the stator can be burned out.
Don, looks like he rolled it down a hill sideways 😅
Do you have any videos on smaller john deere ztr mowers like the z425?
not yet.
Does stihl have something like that on their newer chainsaws? I have a MS661 that does the same thing.
Pull your muffler and look at the piston, rings and cylinder walls through the exhaust port. If you see scoring, then your saw probably has compression issues and needs a new top end. Starting when cold, and then lacking power and stalling once hot is a common symptom for bad compression. The saw usually wont restart until it cools down. Once cool, it will start and seem fine until it heats back up again. Just something to check!
I would be real hesitant to spend $100+ without knowing for sure the unit was bad. There must be a more definitive test you can run on the old unit for a more positive diagnosis. No doubt it's in a Deere service bulletin somewhere.
With intermittent electronic problems, usually there is no diagnostic that will catch it.
And "Deere" isn't about to tell/show you what is wrong or how to ck it.
Current U.S. price is $110. The Technical Manual has some tests you can run on the unit but more often than not they are intermittent like the one you had and you end up just doing a swap-out and hoping that was the problem. Like I mentioned elsewhere, the newer models no longer have a separate control box, it is integrated into the LCD instrument panel and the replacement cost is over $350.
Good reason not to buy John Deere.
@@buddyboy4x44 I'm sure there are other manufacturers who use similar interlock modules.
Nothin runs like a deere! Does it start? Nope. Must be a Deere! 🤣
I saw what you did there,!😂
I didn't have this problem but my washing machine had a F02 code. I cleaned the drain trap and it went away.
Don’t you just love that you need a scan tool for your toaster these days? Ok, maybe that was a bit a of a stretch, but geez, what ever happened to KISS? Seems like too many things are overly complicated simply because they can be and don’t offer a technological advantage. EFI on small engines-yes, it offers better efficiency and emissions. microcontroller based interlock- No, can e accomplished by simple switch logic.
@@crabcake43011 Exactly! Everything has a dang chip in it.
First
Cool 😎
I would be thinking about bypassing that unit someway somehow....fuel and spark delivery used to be controlled by more reliable devices, and if those devices are re-introduced one can cut out all the expensive electronics....no?
DIYer that fully understands and accepts their own actions- absolutely. Pro repair- no way. Stupid general Public + Creative repairs = Liability and lawsuits
How did you find out that this modular was the problem. Is there a test for this module ?
a heat gun and a can of freeze spray were essential diagnosing tools when i did electronics repair in the late 1980's, i'd want to be positive before shelling out $150 for a control module.
From experience
So there trying to keep you from bypassing safety devices maybe
Thanks for the advice and information
Price of the unit is $$$ ???
$150 in Canada
Can you relocate the new module to a cooler location?
You probably could by extending the wires.
Electronic Control Unit
covers these models:
X300
X300R
X304
X305R
X310
X320
X324
X340
X360
X500
X520
X530
X534
X540
X590
Yep, I have replaced it on my neighbor's John Deere.
I always use junk like those modern tractors as a saw horse.
is it ok to trickle charge them??
yes.
@@donyboy73 Thank you for the response. Good to know!👍
Part is $90-$110. 😮
I would rewire it as if it was an old lawnmower if the module became NLA,it sounds like they want you to throw the lawnmower out when parts like that module become unavailable !
Fully agree from the home repair aspect, but liability for a pro repair shop is too great. Especially the safety interlocks.
Thats a cdi or ignition coil for this tractor. But again its too complicated
what lawn tractors have this part?
X300 & X500 series tractors.
Does the driver own a labrador and a white stick 😂😂😂
Amazing how a part that a lawntractor doesn't even need can cause so much havoc but that's John Deere for you. Personally I'd bypass and delete it the first chance I get.
That can be done of course, but without having a schematic of the components in that module (which is most likely unobtainable) you'd have to reinvent the wheel to emulate the same functions as the module. It appears the module's primary function is to coordinate multiple safeties. It sucks to be forced to pay that much for a replacement module but better that than possible injury or death.