Making Arduino Lights for Your Car - A Guide for Complete Beginners
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- Have you ever wanted to add programmable LED lights into your car, but don't know where to get started with the wiring and programming of an Arduino prototyping board?
In this video I walk you through the components you'll need, the circuit wiring, and writing the application code to end up with a simple system that can change a light grid based on the inputs that come from your car.
Suitable for absolute beginners who have never programmed or used prototyping boards before.
📹 Series Part 2: Controlling Your Car from Your Mobile - Bluetooth Car Light Series, pt2 - • Controlling Your Car L...
🔗Download the Arduino code to follow along at drive.google.com/file/d/1pzeJ...
💡 Component List (Amazon Affiliate Links)
- Arduino Nano - amzn.to/3xOGgJd
- Prototyping Board - amzn.to/4dkZ6rC
- 12v to 5v Optocoupler - amzn.to/4aUE55G
- 12v to 5v Converter - amzn.to/4aVJbhR
- IP65 Addressable LEDs (100p/m) - amzn.to/4bjJsej
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00:00:00 Intro
00:01:50 Component List
00:07:47 Connecting the Arduino
00:10:30 Building a simple circuit
00:14:41 Using Serial Monitor
00:18:22 Turning the LEDs on
00:27:05 Wiring buttons
00:30:13 Programming buttons
00:38:23 State management
00:48:03 Expansion
00:49:14 Wiring for car inputs
01:01:15 Next steps - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Probably one of the best introduction to Arduino videos I've seen. It's great to see a fairly involved explanation of the interconnections for a change. Most videos just tell you to connect A-B and leave it at that.
On a breadboard like that I'd hook the smoothing capacitors across the relevant power rails, but that would be my preference. The 5V smoothing cap was an electrolytic, and you could have made the polarity of the device a more prominent for those that may not be as sure.
Now off to watch part II, thank you
High praise indeed. I don't claim to be an expert at Arduino by any means but I used to be a very senior applications programmer so have spent many a year explaining things in simple ways, so glad to see that translates to video format.
And you're right some of those things could be clearer. I'll be sure to pull a bit more focus in part 3 when I'm filming it this week. Cheers.
@@ValentineAutos The reason I thought it was good is that you seemed to assume zero knowledge of the viewer. I was interested to see where you were going with the topic, and watched it to the end.
I'm a (software) test engineer and appreciate something done well. ;)
That was indeed my angle. Didn't want to just say something like "put a switch statement in here", without explaining what it actually means and does. So glad that came through.
I have a much larger one planned for building a full CANBUS powered digital dash so I'll be sure to keep doing it this way.
Really appreciate the feedback
@@ValentineAutos CANBUS sounds like a projct for the Arduino R4
@@davidjowett8195 The plan was for an ESP32 plus an interface that DrKit made store.mrdiy.ca/p/esp32-can-bus-shield/
He's done a good guide on already the circuit already (th-cam.com/video/Se2KCVyD7CM/w-d-xo.html) but as a former UI specialist it's going to be interesting seeing how far I can push the data it extracts
Nice video.
I did something like this recently. If you use an ESP (I just used a Wemos D1 mini), you can set up OTA (Over The Air) programming, then if you wish to change the code, you just need you car to be on and in range of your WiFi network and you can reprogram it in place.
Also I would consider using an interrupt for the break light. As you said no matter what you want that to work as soon as you press the break pedal (regardless of what else the code was doing)
Funnily enough, at the start of part 3 there are a few code and module tweaks that occur before I build the final board out that I don't think you'll be surprised to see lol
@@ValentineAutos Ha ha, nice looking forward to it.
Wonderful project concept - maybe I'll do something like this for my next project ^-^
Definitely give it a go!
@@ValentineAutos currently I'm working on a neopixel clock - I wrote my own driver code for the array if you're interested in seeing it, I didn't want to use some other library if I didn't have to
Sounds wicked. Yeah ping it over and I'll take a look
Great video, as I am a bit of a noob the explanation and detail was all round spot on. It is my understanding that a cars voltage could range from circa 11volts when engine not running to upwards of 100volts cranking, and then somewhere back around 14.5 volts with the engine running. Is an arduino rugged enough to cope with the huge voltage fluctuations experienced in an automotive environment long term? Cheers
You'd never see anywhere near 100V. Most of the systems in your car would blow up. Top end you're ever going to get is mid 14V, and most Arduinos are rated somewhere between 16 and 20V so will be fine.
That being said in pt3 which I'm currently filming we do look at protections for spikes, but generally yeah it's not really a concern.
Great video, really excited to see the next few in the series, keep up the good work.
Can you explain how you are going to tap into the brake and reverse lights so they trigger the optocoupler? and does that cause any risk of the car lights being non functional?
Part 2 is up already - th-cam.com/video/DXix5oR0uPw/w-d-xo.html and I filmed most of part 3 today!! It's been painful! Soldering is a dark art!
And yeah, the whole car uses a common ground, so all the grounds will just bundle together to one place, then the 12v in for the module and the Arduino will be piggybacked to a switched fuse under the driver's console (actual fuse TBC), and then I'm simply going to add an in-line junction from one of the brake lights (I have a third brake light in the boot lid so makes sense to use that one as it's near where the spoiler will be), and then the reverse would do the same from the reverse circuit. You'd like find the line that goes to your normal reverse line and put a junction in it to draw power from there whenever it's activated.
Obviously there's a tiny bit of risk when junctioning live lines, but it's really small. The Octocoupler really is just like adding a bulb into the circuit, as that's all it is. The 5v side has no bearing on it and is entirely independent, so although no risk is ever 0%, it's pretty close!
@@ValentineAutos Brilliant, thanks for the great reply. I'm currently watching part 2!
I was going to buy custom tail lights and didn't realize I already know half of how to make them myself 🤣. I already know C++
Also the LED link goes to the prototyping board.
Knowing C++ puts you 100 steps ahead of most people. Should find a lot of things easy then.
I've just wrapped filming on part 2 building the mobile control app that goes with it so that will be out next couple of days and you might find that interesting
@@ValentineAutos Yeah after you finish all them and I watch them all over I'm going to order the stuff for it.
Nitpick: it's pronounced more like "Ardweeno" than "Ardjuno".
Well TIL
girlyhair - outta here
Lol, ok sport