Not everyone buys it for the power. The sound and service interval are factors for some. I'm not a K&N salesman by any stretch, but I do recommend to people that ask, and it's always recommended for the sound and service interval. Power gains are secondary due to individual factors with every engine and drive style. In the end, it's what you have the funds to buy and if it matters to you enough to spend them on something like this.
It's not hard to Imagine Ford Engineers designing something the air intake to MATCH the complex engine they built... These guys thinking that Ford slapped on a small, junky, poorly designed air intake to feed these Beast Engines and protect the truck/provide power/sales is laughable.
Like the idiot that I am, I first bought a K&N filter and as I was looking how to install , I came upon the videos that questioned whether or not it’s even worth it. All the other vids were long drawn like 3:am infomercials and yours is the only one that actually used computer graphics and was straight to the point . Thank you !
One of the few guys being HONEST with everyone and not blowing smoke and BS like 90% of the guys with their "mod and tuning " channels.... Mad respect bro. I run stock OEM parts because they work better.
Most people do bolt on's that make their car's look cooler and sound better, that alone makes them "feel" like its going faster. In reality, they may be losing power due to the ECU not properly knowing how to run the components. lol I always find it funny when I hear a race car coming from around the corner but then see a Prius going down the road going 0-60 in 12 seconds. ahaha
Every truck Iv tried just a drop in, and an Intake. I could never feel a difference with a drop in but could feel, hear and see the difference with the Intake. They always gave me 10% better mpg {usually 2 mpg}, a little more power w/ less throttle at low rpm cruising, and could tow better in higher gears. Not buying a $20 paper filter 2x a year and mpg saved over life of truck adds up. Rough Country has them for $120 and offers slip on filter socks for dusty areas too.
I just purchased a new F150 (5.0) and have a k&n intake coming tomorrow. On my last one 2006 5.4, I justify the cost like this. $300 for the whole kit with the filter. I had the truck for 13 years and cleaned that same old filter the whole way along. I got a little throttle response and a little better economy. (+25-30 miles to tank at best). Over that 13 years I put 310,000 miles on the truck ( and that same old filter) to me, it’s an investment. But, my vehicles are maintained and mechanically cared for religiously. Don’t recommend wasting the money if you aren’t going to keep a vehicle as an investment. $300 in paper filters . 90,000 miles if they are changed regularly? To most people, that could take 5-7 years.
Craig Weaver You can definitely look at it from the perspective of saving money on filters. My test whether or not it was a good investment for increasing horse power. You make a very good point though! Thanks for watching!🤙
Also I know people say there mpg go down with mods but they also state they rip around more just because they can I am one of few that has a light foot
@@charleslincoln5357 Yeah newer trucks are a little bit different. OBD2 ecu’s are tunable and probably more adaptable. Newer intakes are more restrictive because manufacturers are trying to reduce engine noise. The older trucks had very straight flowing intakes. So not much performance to be had there. Plus, a lot of new f150s are turbocharged and forced induction typically sees a huge benefit from these types of intakes. Good for you! Most guys to mash the gas pedal once they have performance mods. Lol
I had 1 on my 96 f150 5.0 and didn't feel a significant difference to the stock. Returned it back and saved 300 bucks. On a separate note. I did change my fuel pump and did notice a differnce on response to throttle and seemed crisper when accelerating. 300 for a CAI or fuel pump. I pick fuel pump. Keep up the great work love the vids. Trust me lots of 92 to 96 f150 out there looking at your vids.
fabjac Santi Yeah I returned my too! Probably the fastest return I’ve ever made! Lol A new pump will do that, especially if yours was slowing down. Honestly, a good tune up is a great way to freshen up any vehicle and make it feel better during acceleration. Thanks man! 👍 Be sure to share my videos with anyone with these years of truck!
As other people have said, retuning the engine is necessary to get the optimum benefit of these aftermarket intakes. The amount of difference that it ultimately makes probably also depends on how well-designed stock intake is to start with, which will vary from model to model.
You are exactly right! However, K&N markets and sells this product as a install and forget it type of mod. On the outside of the box in huge letters and Asterixs, it should say tuning and engine modifications needed to achieve stated results.
@@TheMinuteMasters K&N should include a dictionary. Asterixis is a clinical sign that describes the inability to maintain sustained posture with subsequent brief, shock-like, involuntary movements. This disorder is myoclonus characterized by muscular inhibition. I think you meant asterisk - no "X"
I got a K&N filter charger kit. It uses the stock intake tube. It's just a filter that replaces the stock air filter box. I also removed the baffle that was inside the stock intake tube.
@@TheMinuteMasters no. It came with an adapter plate that bolts onto the mass airflow sensor, then the filter goes on the adapter and there's a little bracket for the air temp sensor. And another little bracket that bolts to the end of the filter and mounts to the fender.
You have to reset the memory in the ECU. Disconnect the battery cables and zip tie them together for several minutes, reconnect them and try again. The computer is used to your driving habits prior to the modifications
IF you had a fuel problem I think that could of been identified by running the truck with no intake with the hood up. Just for fun it would interesting to see you test the fuel pressure in the truck. However I completely agree that if you did have issues you would of seen them arise in earlier tests. Have you ever read or seen the 1999 magazine articles about project MPG?
Yeah I might check the fuel pressure just to satisfy my curiosity. Actually, we ran the test with the hood open. So I actually gave the engine it’s best shot at making power with the CAI. I’ve heard mention of project mpg on forums but I haven’t read anything about it. Where do I find it?
@@TheMinuteMasters performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/projectmpg_4-part_magazine_series.pdf I brought this up because they tested the different intake set-ups, might give ya a few ideas.
Awesome! Glad I didn't listen to my brother about my 94 f150 5.8 and buy this "home run hitter" intake. Three bills would've been thrown out and I'd still be driving my Ram 2500 diesel. Miss Rollin the ole beast. Thanks for the service and keep it coming.
Not all engines are made to just make power by adding a bolt on. That is why they always say if you want the most out of it, get a tune. From a tune they will find faults or adjustments needed to make it work more effectively but in the end you have have to spend another few hundred dollars to get everything to run with more boost. There are a few engines that can take advantage of easy bolt-on's.
I agree 100%! If this engine is one of those engines that need additional work for speed mods to work, than K&N should say so. Otherwise, their product looks like a failure.
Well when you have an older truck like that and you described your engine issues of course you’re not going to be satisfied with the product you need to balance everything out
Lee Scott So the engine issues are just guesses as to why the CAI didn’t work as advertised. Otherwise, K&N’s did test this K&N on a high mileage truck. Maybe a test after an engine rebuild would be a more fair test.
I will be adding the k & n intake, a BBK 61mm throttle body, edelbrock intake manifold, BBK shorty headers and custom side exhaust. Maybe that can wake up my 92 f150 a bit.
@@TheMinuteMasters I plan on rebuilding the motor and transmission while I put that as well. I am not sure what mods to implement when rebuilding. Any tips would be appreciated.
@@TheCOWBOYRANCHER For the engine I would just go for the usual stock rebuild parts. If want more horsepower, I would consider getting a different set of heads and a cam. However, you will need to upgrade the fuel system for those mods. For the transmission, get Kevlar clutches, OD, band, and reverse band. I have those in mine. I’m told they grip better and last longer. Also have at least a stage 1 shift kit installed. It speeds up shifting the first two gears which decreases wear. It also shifts the OD band faster too. If you don’t have an trans fluid cooler, I would add one. Heat is the biggest killer of transmissions.
Your right 😁it's a peace of mind type of deal like I added the k&n intake kit so in my mind there's nothing I could ever do or need to do to get better air flow in to my engine lol sales gimmick the one and only plus is gonna be for the sound and they are really just made for the track take that out on dusty roads and they say lifetime filters so in most people's minds oh I save tons of money not having to buy new paper filters yay and then so now they get in the habit of never changing or cleaning their air filters ....k&n are oiled filters for the most part I believe they may sell dry filters to now but ya got to take it out bath it in soap ,rinse, and find a way to dry it with a heat gun ,hair dryer ,or have to leave it out in the sun for a day then you can re oil the filter since you removed the oil bathing the filter once oiled pop it in and your good to go for a few months .and if you don't clean the filter take it out and look down your intake tube and take notice of all the dirt sand etc that's on the walls of the tube yep all that dirt went right in to your nice healthy engine you turned into a sand blaster 🤩😎 I'm not hating on this it's just the cold hard truth for the everyday man
Combine the k&n with air throttle body spacer, a flowmaster cat back exhaust system, and one of the 300-400 dollar hand held tuners you’ll see agains across the board
You have drive the truck for about 50 to 100 miles for the computer to adjust for the extra air. The Fuel, Air and Timing are off right now, Any mechanic can figure that out, drive it for a few days and then dyno it again and i bet it makes more power.
Cold air intakes r good, for sound maybe more hp, but when the day is hot which it’s like 90% time where I am u loose much more hp that u had before u added the CAI
This is true unfortunately... I have an off brand CAI on my 2008 accord with the K24 and it runs like $hit on hot days. Although it makes the engine sound REALLY nice.
5 hp stock doesnt seem to bad. I made 220 whp with heads, headers, and cam, thinking the k@n filter with stock intake may be a decent cheap boost before i get an intake. Also need to find a junkyard for one of those factory cold air intake manifold pieces. My tuner left me a bit rich to allow some flexibility, maybe it will be beneficial. Cool stuff!
Ike Reedy So I thick a common reason why it feels better is because the intake sounds louder. Also switching to a k&n Filter in general produces power. The baseline dyno run was with a k&n filter in the stock air box. So you probably did gain power over a stock paper filter and air box, but maybe not over a stock intake with k&n filter. Now as you saw, my truck ran lean. Then we added starting fuel to balance it. Maybe the correct fuel to air ratio from the injectors is need to make this mod work. I may revisit this mod down the road in an effort to see what it takes to make it work.
I, too, like to think about little things to improve and upgrade my vehicles, not just the truck. Bring it into the new century. I am a tinkerer and like doing things.
More air requires more fuel period. In the old days it was just a simple jet and spring change now its hundreds of dollars for a fuel management system. But thats progress.
I didnt like running one of these. It looks cool but... this is what I found out by having one for 5 years: 1> the setup is bad. The filter is only supported by the airtube. So when you drive over bumps it caused the whole assembly to bounce up and down. Now think about the plastic tube that tapirs down and the rubber boot that hose clamps onto it, it will just keep slipping off. 2> the fact that you are pulling air from the bay not fresh air. This is advertised as a fresh air intake but really you are just putting a bigger filter in that lets you hear the throttle vacuum sound and actually sucks the air from the hot motor bay. also the filter gets wet way to easy, no water protection. 3> you will have to constantly tighten the screws up if you are 4x4ing at all. I found that the chrome brace would loosen up frequently and this would hasten the filter MAF assembly slipping off the end of the plastic air tube. final thought, spend the 300 toward a Saginaw swap, metal idler swap, or high power alternator, or even a dual battery setup.
They definitely look cool, but you nailed all the reasons why they are terrible. I highly recommend the other mods for sure! Thanks for comment! Excellent info!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters based on your knowledge about performance do you think a naturally aspirated 4cylinder with headers and high flow cats would still struggle to beat a completely factory v6?
@@cedricmiller4370 Well I don’t have that answer off hand. However, I’m always inclined to think the v6 will beat a 4c because 6v usually have that much more power. The only thing that usually limited a v6 is the car that carries it. V6 cars are usually bigger and weight more. This relationship is your power to weight ratio. More power and less weight is faster. Your 4c car could be much lighter and therefore get more horsepower benefit. That being said, a high flow car can free up a little horsepower but I’m not sure if it’s enough to make a huge performance difference. Now, depending on the car headers can give you anywhere from 10-20 hp. Honestly, it’s all about research. Compare the weight of the cars. Compare the horsepower. Calculate the power to weight ratio. Figure out how much horsepower you gained from your mods. Who knows, if weight is the same, you could be even on horsepower.
Did anyone see the video on here where the guy flipped his air box upside down? He said it gave him more power and better fuel mileage. Idk about that.
Sgt W Exactly! Smarter people and millions of dollars have been invested in engine technology. Small improvements can be made where cost prohibited the manufacturer from doing so. But that’s it.
I did an Airaid system on my 2005 Dakota. No I wasnt expecting a huge change and didnt get it. Except when I tow my trailer. Noticeable better mileage when towing. The air system along with the Gibson exhaust gave me about 1.5 miles per gallon gain. Are they worth it? Depends on what your using truck for.
Just did a spectre air filter on my 10th gen 4.6. Considering it already had a come filter from the factory, i dont see the point of going further then that. Maybe a throttle body and plenum with an exhaust and tune at some point, but in no hurry
Gotta leave it on the truck for 60 miles... then the ecu will re learn the fueling tables for the new intake. I’ve got that setup on my 100k mile truck new fuel pump & filter it absolutely blows the doors off a buddies truck with the drop in filter.
@@TheMinuteMasters all the older efi fords have a relearn period, and mines a 96 5.0 4r70w 4x4 single cab long bed. Never dyno’ it but I needed traction bars after putting the intake on and bending my leaf springs
never seen any other videos on here of his but. here's the thing when I upgraded my Harley I put a k&n filter and exhaust on there.. absolutely have to adjust when you add mods any mod. so I could put on $2,000 worth of exhaust it's not necessarily going to build up my horsepower until I find tune the car to it so what's the difference if you do it with a $300 air filter the trick is you put all this stuff on there how you build horsepower is the more air and fuel you can get in and out. so yeah you put on the better air filter you put on the better exhaust like my Harley put bigger injectors in there to get more feel with the more air and then you find tune all that with a Dino and that's how you get everything to run perfect. anybody that does one step and think that's it you're wrong. you do all the little things and they add up like head work injectors air intake exhaust you put all that together and instead of 10 horse you can look at 50 or more. talk to anybody a race quarter mile and they will tell you you put all the mods together tune it all to work together properly !!!!!!
I agree 100% John! My issue is people are only putting the cold air intake on their vehicles and thinking they are gaining horsepower when they aren’t. Also K&N as part of their install directions don’t even recommend tuning your engine. This engine is OBD1 and isn’t tunable without modifying the ECU. However, K&N claims this CAI will make 10-15 hp on a 108k miles truck.
Some vehicles respond better than others is absolutely true. I have ran cold air intakes on a lot of different vehicles. The biggest difference made was on a 1995 Dodge v10 dually. Man did it wake it up compared to stock and gains over 3 mpg. Before 9.4 mpg after cold air intake and muffler install went up to 12.9 mpg. Almost all of the other vehicles were minimal to no change.
That's somehting I've seen with my 5.7 hemi's i put them on. As I've aged a bit, I'm easier on the throttle and my recent experence is on a new 2022 ram 1500...first tank was 4 miles to 410 miles with factory intake...15.9 average mpg. 2nd tank with K&N 77 series and average mpg 17.4 with VERY similar drive style and conditions. The sound change is what really keeps me smiling though. Just sounds better than stock..
Hey man I've been watching your videos all week becuase nearly every one of your videos is exactly what I need. At some point do you think you'll do a overall tour of your truck?
@@TheMinuteMasters My truck is very similar and I wrecked it right before Christmas so I've been rebuilding it and taking care of maintenance stuff since its 20+ years old. Really appreciate your videos!!!
That will do it! I can't remember where I bought by new radiator support but I definitely got it online. I bought the entire headlight, grille, and mounting bracket/frame on Ebay. I replaced the driver's side fender and I bought that from I think raybucks.com. I try to buy things using Amazon because I have prime. So you can use amazon or autopartswarehouse to get a new radiator. You can get a hood from just about anyone who sells any new panels for our trucks. I used the Prothane or energy suspension bushings for the body mount bushings. You will still need to buy gem bolts for it if I remember correctly. That should just about put the front back together.
Robert P The engine doesn’t have any diagnosed problems. Even the dyno tech said it was perfectly fine. If by problems you mean a high mileage vehicle, then yes it’s probably not a perfect test bed. However, K&N tester this intake on a high mileage truck and includes the dyno print out. At the end of the day, K&N is selling an expensive product tested on a stock, high mileage truck and they claimed it made more power.
You did not tune it or look at the air temps / flow etc. They used to say a stock airbox was best as engineers / manufacturers spent thousands of hours on it. Lo and behold when the Ford FPV GS 5.0 supercharged came i saw that it had a POD FILTER and CAI AS STANDARD. Which got me thinking why would the newer models deliver this sort of air intake and not just a enclosed box. Besides if you have a maf its already just taking regulating what air it takes in. Put in a haltech with no maf and run it on the dyno then we can see and tune it for that with temp readings.
I agree 100% a tune would work wonders for this CAI. However, they advertise it as “bolt on” and don’t mention tuning. Not that tuning an OBD1 truck would be easy either.
J. R. Thompson Yup! The general consensus is, the factory intake is both direct and pulls in cool air. Other makes and models will have different results but for this truck, just keep the stock filter clean.🤙
It’s not a valid test.... fix the fuel problems, , Then Do comparisons ...you won’t get a reduction in power..once your fuel situation is fixed.. which by the way needs fixing regardless
Luke Rose And yet K&N tested it on a high mileage truck and claimed it would make power. At least, that’s what the paperwork and dino chart said that came with it.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mileage isn't a true indicator of condition. A high mile engine that's been treated with full syn oil and proper service intervals could have minimal compression loss. Another high mile engine that's had the same filters for 3 years and oil changed 15,000mi, idled for hours, could be a wheezing hoopty ready for the scrap pile.
The key word is tuning. The K&N directions and marketing material do not indicate a tune is needed to make the CAI work properly. Furthermore, this year truck is OBDI which isn’t tunable without physically modifying the ECU. Needing to physically modifying the ECU and needing a tune make this a “non-bolt on” horsepower mod.
Dustin Smith This is true. However, I found that more people with old trucks are actively trying to add more power. Newer trucks have way more horsepower from the factory.
I have a 4.6L and went to the junkyard and pulled a 5.4l k&n can I put a block and seal up where the existing sensor is on the 5.4 and make a new hole seal it up and reroute where my sensor is on my 4.6l stock air intake to make the 5.4 work along with a 45 degree coupling for my 4.6? I believe the 4.6 is 3" and the 5.4 is 4".
@@TheMinuteMasters that's what I was thinkin just needed an extra input on the matter I paid $22 bucks at the junkyard so why not give it a go. I looked online and they go for $350 plus.
Yeah I’m pretty sure some people say you have to tune the engine a little when you add a k&n intake I think that’s like half true because you could run it without it if you won’t like the noise and don’t really care for power but if you want the full potential maybe you have to tune it
The computer has to relearn AFR for a few hundred miles before getting any power increase. Anyway i would like to see a dunk video on an underdrive pully kit. I think they are 119 bucks.
I let the truck run a bit on the dyno before we do the two pulls. I might revisit the CAI in the future and rule out all the variables that may prevent it from working. I totally forgot about underdrive pullies. I'll add that to the list of mods to test. Thanks!
Its worth the money it just needs more logic to it. Cold air intakes are meant to work with free flow exhausts/decat and a remap or tune. Why should you expect power or performance if you still have back pressure from the exhaust worst if your cat is clogged.A full set up allows your engine to breath better hence; engine revs quicker and more eager to hit the redline faster in any gear. Its more like having flue and only removing mucus in your nose and not unclogging your throat, you wont really breath
You make a good point. However, K&N advertises this CAI as a bolt on, no additional mods needed, and no tune, method to increase horsepower. This means the product as is does not work as advertised. If the product needs additional help to work, then K&N needs to say so and advertise as such.
Any aftermarket part is going to require tuning your vehicle. A lot of the newer vehicles auto tune the fuel and air intake so you can actually get results that are printed out of a bolt on part like the cold air intake w/e brand you go with.
Matthew Michels I totally agree! However, this product is advertised as a bolt on horsepower adder for an OBD1 vehicle. OBD1 is only tunable if you add a tuning feature to the motherboard. Otherwise, you can’t (as I’ve been told) tune an OBD1 ecu. With that said, if in fact K&N’s CAIs require a tune to work, then they should advertise the product as only increasing horsepower after a proper tune. Or in this case rebuilding the ECU and then tuning. Hahaha! I always have to correct myself for run-on sentences when I make comments on TH-cam too.
Dude if your only pushing 150-160hp from that v8 it has serious wear issues, my 1995 302 h.o is pushing out 230hp, it has headders tho.if you ram more air in naturally you need more fuel to make it burn clean and proper, you have to up size your injectors or tweek the c.p.u for more fuel.
Is your 230 hp measured at the crank or the wheels? 150 hp is at the wheels. Also mine is a regular 302 and yours is a 302 High Output. The HO V8 have more power. Everything else is correct. Bigger injectors and a tune could wake the CAI up. However, K&N doesn’t say you need a tune for their product to work. That is why I say it’s junk on these stock trucks.
TheAfrothunderr I’m with that on that. It’s the original layout of the stock intake (length and direction) but there is no box surrounding the cone filter and no inlet for outside cold air. But K&N advertises this as a cold air intake.
Should of reset the electronic throttle body I definitely don't think it would make a difference compared to a clean stock system but definitely wouldn't of dropped HP or torque may help with mpg
If it is going lean is it possible that the MAF "pegged" ie. At max flow sensing so any additional air wasn't accounted for? Which if this was the case it would require a custom computer tune and a larger MAF not just a bolt on mod. Also I don't like the fact that it is a warm air intake.
Exactly! So many people don’t get that. If this CAI actually works it needs a custom tune which takes it out of the easy bolt on mod. Not to mention, this is an OBD1 truck and you would have to modify the ECU in order to tune it. I agree! Definitely a hot air intake.
Jacob Mcknight You said it man. I went into this test wanting so bad for the K&N CAI to work. After all, the CAI really cleans up the engine bay and looks awesome. I can’t tell you how disappointed I felt when I looked at the dyno charts and saw the crappy results. Real bummer. K&N needs to step up their game or be challenged by a competitor.
XC The fuel system is in perfect operational condition. The dyno tech made an unverified suggestion. After all, the truck ran fine through all the other tests and idles perfectly.
So just the filter gave you 5HP and now you install the full kit and lose HP….something is def wrong there. I would try this test again on a truck with less miles on it. I have a CAI on my accord and can def feel the difference.
So what I’ll tell people is newer cars probably benefit a little more from something like this because the intakes are usually not very straight. This year of Ford has a very straight intake. so add another straight intake probably doesn’t do anything. But you do make a good point that it should’ve at least made as much power as the filter itself.
I absolutely love my 95 F150 5.0 but boy do I wish it was OBD2. OBD1 makes tuning so much more expensive and difficult. Plus OBD2 codes are much easier to read and are more detailed. These trucks aren’t the easiest to get power from but they sure do look the best doing it!
With the correct type of tuning you can definitely make these CAIs work. However, on older OBD1 vehicles that’s very hard to do without rebuilding the ECU. Having to rebuild an ECU to make it tunable makes these K&N CAIs not exactly bolt on horsepower mods.
Since the ecoboost is a forced induction engine, you could see actually gains from a CAI. However, you’d have to dyno it to know for sure. The filters used by K&N do let more dirt particles by than a paper filter.
Pegasus Motor Company The dyno tech told me K&N CAI are always mixed results. He said you always see gains on forced induction engines or engines with an extremely restrictive factory intake. This truck isn’t force indicted and the factory intake is wide and straight.
Pegasus Motor Company These results are only from this generation of f150. Although, I have heard similar results from other vehicles. The safest bet is to test your own vehicle on a dyno with a K&N and see for yourself.
Pegasus Motor Company exactly! And hey the cool thing is, going to a Dyno is a really neat experience. It’s an experience that you can share with people when they ask you if that K&N works. It makes for a good “do you even Dyno bro“ moment. Lol
Mahalo for this video. I don't understand how the K & N kit can be a true cold air intake. It sits in the engine compartment where there is plenty of heat. That shield around the cone filter seems useless to me. There is no cold air plenum being routed to the filter intake or having it located towards the bottom of the motor... anywhere where it can get more fresh air routed to it. The way it's set up, it's just getting the hot air from the motor that's somewhat stuck inside the engine bay. I guess one can drive around without a hood!? Function needs to work with form. This thing seems to be all form.
No problem man!🤙 You are exactly this is more of a “hot air intake.” The filter really does need its own air box that draws air from outside the engine bay. Hoodless would be cool but rain would always be an issue. Granted, you could treat a hood like soft tops on a Jeep. Off when the sun is out and on when the sun isn’t.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mahalo for your reply. Hahaha, a convertible engine hood! Brilliant! I have a '96 Explorer and I'm thinking the diameter of the inlet tube and the MAF is more than adequate. I have felt a noticeable difference with a larger exhaust from stock 2" to a Flowmaster 2.25" and a 50 series muffler. That was on my '91 Explorer. For my '96 Explorer, about to place on a Flowmaster 2.25" pipe with a 40 series muffler (it's about 5" shorter than the 50 series). It'll be nice to have the motor run a bit more efficiently and see the mpg go up a bit. I toy with the idea of going with a 2.5" or 3.0", but maybe that's too large of a diameter? Your thoughts.
Darryl Eng Health Fitness & Martial Arts Right! Lol Nice! Flowmasters definitely sounds great! I prefer Magnaflow muffler because they are straight through flow designs. For your exhaust I’d stick to 2.5” max. I’ve been told 3” and wider is for higher horsepower/ forced induction.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mahalo. I was seriously going through Flowmaster, Magnaflow and Borla. Ended up with Flowmaster again just because I feel the in cockpit decibels will be a bit more tolerable. However, I think the 40 series is going to be louder than the 50 series. My '96 Explorer has the 4.0 OHV Cologne motor that makes about 160HP. Maybe 2.25" is just about right. I'm not sure what bolt on stuff I can do get more HP and efficiency out of that motor. I haven't found much in the way of headers, throttle body extras to improve the HP. Suggestions? Otherwise it looks like larger pistons, port/polish, balance the crank. In my Scirocco, yes I have a Scirocco 16V, I am getting rid of the horribly loud IMCO that a previous owner put on and place on my Techtonics 2.25 cat back with a Dynomax muffler. Has just the right amount of tone and resonance for me.
Darryl Eng Health Fitness & Martial Arts Yup! The 40 series is louder than the 50 for sure. Honestly, I don’t know much about the 4.0 in the explorers. I know the 5.0 explorers have great aluminum heads that f150 can use to increase horsepower. I think for your engine, you would be looking into boring the engine pistons larger and port and polish job. You could also look into having a cam shaft made if you can’t find a performance one. The crank comes pretty well balance from the factory. Although, you could look more into balance it further. Nice! That’s a cool car. Definitely not common in the US. I hear dynomax are good too!
I put the K&N cold air intake with the K&N exhaust on my 2017 Chevrolet Silverado and the pick up is considerably more noticeable. Never while driving before the upgrade was I able to spin tires or lose traction and now after the change I am able to around 20 m/h. I also recently bought new tires so it’s not a traction issue. One other thing to take into consideration is I also added the throttle modulator as well. The module doesn’t increase horsepower but changes response time. I would say do all three and then see for yourself. I spent less then $1300 and no way would I go back with the original setup.
You will see a gain with your truck because you have a newer system. OBDII ecu are also programmable. This truck is old and has an OBDI ecu which isn’t tunable. The intake on this year truck is also very direct. So there really is no room for improvement.
They said it would make power on a proper engine that's been maintained. Expecting factory fuel system to be in top shape 225k later is stupid. Even the dyno operator told you your pos probably has underlying neglect that is leaning it out.
XC The compression is within specs and the dyno operator said “maybe” my fuel system needed work. HOWEVER, he couldn’t and didn’t verify that and said my engine runs perfectly fine through all the other tests. This wasn’t my first time at the dyno with this same truck. I was merely suggesting a remote possibility to let K&N off easy.
Caught me sleeping checked the video out and was i impressed kinda figures though. going efan soon and under pulleys cheapest mod i can do at the moment maybe this later www.ebay.com/itm/302-FORD-GT40-3-BAR-PAIR-OF-CYLINDER-HEADS-F3ZE-WITH-7-16-HEAD-BOLT-HOLES-/254113040949?oid=253121982105
Generic cold air intakes do the same. So spend less and get some added benefits. Remember that K&N is a trademark name. Who ever sells this product must pay a royalty just to carry that name. Then they have to pay interest on the consignment order. Get a generic cold air intake. It does the same thing
A test for fuel economy could be worth trying but losing horsepower probably translates into a loss of mpg. As for engine longevity, the filter used by K&N is know to let dirt particles through. They are known for letting enough dirt through to cover the wire on a MAF and cause problems.
@@nyak63RUS Marketing mostly. However, there are horsepower gains with forced induction engines. Performance products like this CAI are great for performance applications. For example, the filter isn’t the best but for a few clean track days it doesn’t matter. Also, if you rebuild your race engine regularly, then it doesn’t matter how much micro dirt gets into your intake.
If I'm not mistaken, increasing air flow, as advertised, would require the vehicle computer to recalibrate itself, over time, to adjust for that flow to get the Air/Fuel ratio correct, and isnt exactly an out-of-the-box instant change. Try driving around a bit with the CAI and then dyno, you yourself admitted the engine ran lean, it needs time and miles to adjust itself at different points in the RPM spectrum.
A few people have suggested that there is an extended learning period for the engine to properly adjust to a CAI. The dyno tech says that period is short, which is why I came to the conclusion of this video. However, it might just be worth a try in order to see this experience through.
@@TheMinuteMasters I know from my truck sitting with no battery for about 8 months that when I went to smog it, the computer didnt read correctly, and the tech said I needed to drive it for about 50 miles or so, varying speeds and rpm, with occasional periods of idle both in gear and out for the computer to reset itself and adjust for driving and altitude conditions, maybe you could drive a week or so normal daily driving with the CAI, and then dyno it to see if that makes a change
I know for a fact that it works as long as it’s getting more air and it depends on the different sit ups and vehicles some will get more and some will get less using that truck to experiment with is a very bad choice I wouldn’t expect anything to happen with it the motor is probably about shot
The dyno tech said NA engines hardly see any gains. Forced induction see the most gains. K&N tested this CAI on a high mileage truck like mine. So I don’t think that’s the issue.
So mpg might be a little harder to come by. However, there is a special tune up called the “Six liter” tune up, which is supposed to help with mpg. 👇 www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ignition-upgrade-and-timing-bump-no-56k.63592/
I still run stock air box with K&N drop in filter and it does just fine....however I did install a BBK twin 61mm throttle body and I can see and feel a difference in it and I still haven't matched the plenum to the new TB size....oh and before the knowitalls start up...that's in a 89 F150 with a rebuilt 5.0
Anyone with any knowledge whatsoever of how engines work, knows you need to increase air and fuel for gains. One or the other just changes your mixture. Intake, exhaust, injectors & tune / jets.
This is exactly true. However, K&N sells and markets this product with no requirement for a tune. If is requires a tune to work (which it probably does) then the directs should say so. Furthermore they make a product for an OBD1 vehicle and OBD1 ECUs are not tunable without being modified first. This makes this horsepower gain scenario even more complicated.
Doc Holiday You can do whatever you like. If you have a tuneable ECU (usually OBD2)(this truck is an OBD1 and can’t be tuned with the stock ECU) then you definitely want to try and the K&N work. Turbos and superchargeda benefit a lot from CAIs. Some eom air intakes are very restrictive and will also see a good gain. The 91-96 f150s don’t though.
Doc Holiday I think on the new Silverado’s the K&N does add some power because the intakes have all the sound dampening chambers. So you can definitely give it a shot. As far as tuning a 2014, I think you can. The only down side to any K&N filters is the actually filter element doesn’t keep all the dirt out. Basically, to gain power, you lose filtering.
You cant just put the filter on you have to retune the engine to make up for the difference in air flow thats where the power comes from more air more fuel more power
I understand that the engine needs to be tuned to accept a cold air intake. However, the directions do not indicate that a tune is needed, which is why I say this doesn’t work well as a plug and play horsepower mod. With that said, I think I may revisit this test in the future.
@@TheMinuteMasters so it wont make a difference. Was maybe thinking the ecu would help due to the variations in the fuel to air ratio thats going to change
Jorge Damian When the ecu senses a change in the fuel to air ratio it will adjust on its own. Disconnecting the battery and installing the CAI doesn’t really speed up the process. The engine still has to go through the “learning” process which is just seconds for electronics.
I just bought a 21' camaro rs and if I wanted a faster car I honestly wouldve bought a ss and been done with it...the rs is more than enough power (for me)...300.+ up...im Good...maybe a little more growl from the exhaust but that's it..plus all my mod money is going toward that monthly meeting...😁
How do they even get away with calling it a cold air intake? The factory intake is more of a cold air intake than this crap, all it does is suck air from the hot engine bay and make obnoxious noises so it sounds like you got more power
austin jensen Honestly man, I have no idea. I can only imagine it’s just been years of good marketing that has people convinced these work. Granted there is evidence to show they do increase power on forced induction vehicles. However, it’s still a “hot air intake”.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally someone did the right test. Short and sweet. Saved me $320 thanks bro.
Thanks man!🤙 just trying to help everyone out.
Same. Just saved me $350. Thank you
@@TheMinuteMasters right on brotha👍
Not everyone buys it for the power. The sound and service interval are factors for some. I'm not a K&N salesman by any stretch, but I do recommend to people that ask, and it's always recommended for the sound and service interval. Power gains are secondary due to individual factors with every engine and drive style. In the end, it's what you have the funds to buy and if it matters to you enough to spend them on something like this.
It's not hard to Imagine Ford Engineers designing something the air intake to MATCH the complex engine they built... These guys thinking that Ford slapped on a small, junky, poorly designed air intake to feed these Beast Engines and protect the truck/provide power/sales is laughable.
No BS, short and sweet. Big thanks!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! You are most welcome!
👍👍
Like the idiot that I am, I first bought a K&N filter and as I was looking how to install , I came upon the videos that questioned whether or not it’s even worth it. All the other vids were long drawn like 3:am infomercials and yours is the only one that actually used computer graphics and was straight to the point . Thank you !
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad this video helped you out!
One of the few guys being HONEST with everyone and not blowing smoke and BS like 90% of the guys with their "mod and tuning " channels.... Mad respect bro. I run stock OEM parts because they work better.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Most people do bolt on's that make their car's look cooler and sound better, that alone makes them "feel" like its going faster. In reality, they may be losing power due to the ECU not properly knowing how to run the components. lol I always find it funny when I hear a race car coming from around the corner but then see a Prius going down the road going 0-60 in 12 seconds. ahaha
Every truck Iv tried just a drop in, and an Intake. I could never feel a difference with a drop in but could feel, hear and see the difference with the Intake. They always gave me 10% better mpg {usually 2 mpg}, a little more power w/ less throttle at low rpm cruising, and could tow better in higher gears. Not buying a $20 paper filter 2x a year and mpg saved over life of truck adds up. Rough Country has them for $120 and offers slip on filter socks for dusty areas too.
I just purchased a new F150 (5.0) and have a k&n intake coming tomorrow. On my last one 2006 5.4, I justify the cost like this. $300 for the whole kit with the filter. I had the truck for 13 years and cleaned that same old filter the whole way along. I got a little throttle response and a little better economy. (+25-30 miles to tank at best). Over that 13 years I put 310,000 miles on the truck ( and that same old filter) to me, it’s an investment. But, my vehicles are maintained and mechanically cared for religiously. Don’t recommend wasting the money if you aren’t going to keep a vehicle as an investment. $300 in paper filters . 90,000 miles if they are changed regularly? To most people, that could take 5-7 years.
Craig Weaver You can definitely look at it from the perspective of saving money on filters. My test whether or not it was a good investment for increasing horse power. You make a very good point though! Thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters So basically, it's personal whether you believe K&N or any manufactures out there claiming hp on their filters?
I put a K$N cold air intake on my 2017 Taurus SHO and my check engine light came on !
Helps my truck for sure and do highway driving and love it
Is your truck newer and does it help with mpg?
Ya is new was around its first 8000km her in Alberta that I installed k&n and yes it did nothing amazing but definitely
K&n shines around 2000rpm and that’s we’re I stay on highway
Also I know people say there mpg go down with mods but they also state they rip around more just because they can
I am one of few that has a light foot
@@charleslincoln5357 Yeah newer trucks are a little bit different. OBD2 ecu’s are tunable and probably more adaptable. Newer intakes are more restrictive because manufacturers are trying to reduce engine noise. The older trucks had very straight flowing intakes. So not much performance to be had there. Plus, a lot of new f150s are turbocharged and forced induction typically sees a huge benefit from these types of intakes.
Good for you! Most guys to mash the gas pedal once they have performance mods. Lol
Any mods to airflow, clear the kam and drive for ten minutes to relearn adaptive strategy. This would eliminate leaning out with the increased airflow
I had 1 on my 96 f150 5.0 and didn't feel a significant difference to the stock. Returned it back and saved 300 bucks. On a separate note. I did change my fuel pump and did notice a differnce on response to throttle and seemed crisper when accelerating. 300 for a CAI or fuel pump. I pick fuel pump. Keep up the great work love the vids. Trust me lots of 92 to 96 f150 out there looking at your vids.
fabjac Santi Yeah I returned my too! Probably the fastest return I’ve ever made! Lol
A new pump will do that, especially if yours was slowing down. Honestly, a good tune up is a great way to freshen up any vehicle and make it feel better during acceleration.
Thanks man! 👍 Be sure to share my videos with anyone with these years of truck!
@@TheMinuteMasters What should the fuel pressure be on these OBS trucks? Mine is reading 30psi & i thought that it should be higher
mikey mike You know I haven’t checked in a while but 30 psi sounds about right.
Smart young man!! I will watch you and listen to you! I felt proud of you!! Thanks
Christopher Baker Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it!
Thank you for watching!
As other people have said, retuning the engine is necessary to get the optimum benefit of these aftermarket intakes. The amount of difference that it ultimately makes probably also depends on how well-designed stock intake is to start with, which will vary from model to model.
You are exactly right! However, K&N markets and sells this product as a install and forget it type of mod. On the outside of the box in huge letters and Asterixs, it should say tuning and engine modifications needed to achieve stated results.
Nice thumbnail !!!
👍🏼C.S.A.👍🏼
@@TheMinuteMasters K&N should include a dictionary. Asterixis is a clinical sign that describes the inability to maintain sustained posture with subsequent brief, shock-like, involuntary movements. This disorder is myoclonus characterized by muscular inhibition.
I think you meant asterisk - no "X"
@@RichardFallstich hahaha! 😂😂 My mistake but surprised auto correct never tried to change it. Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters Totally agree. Their should be violations to corporate false advertising.
I got a K&N filter charger kit. It uses the stock intake tube. It's just a filter that replaces the stock air filter box. I also removed the baffle that was inside the stock intake tube.
Nice! 🤙 Is it the K&N filter that has two ports?
@@TheMinuteMasters no. It came with an adapter plate that bolts onto the mass airflow sensor, then the filter goes on the adapter and there's a little bracket for the air temp sensor. And another little bracket that bolts to the end of the filter and mounts to the fender.
You have to reset the memory in the ECU. Disconnect the battery cables and zip tie them together for several minutes, reconnect them and try again. The computer is used to your driving habits prior to the modifications
Is that considers a typical shop procedure?
@@TheMinuteMasters I know this is pretty typical of most repairs and mods. The ecu has to relearn. TBH I just disconnect the battery for 10-15min
Do you mean zip tie the two battery leads positive and negative together?
Can’t get any simpler than that, thanks brother I’m returning mine today lol
I’m glad I could help you out Rafa!🤙
IF you had a fuel problem I think that could of been identified by running the truck with no intake with the hood up. Just for fun it would interesting to see you test the fuel pressure in the truck. However I completely agree that if you did have issues you would of seen them arise in earlier tests.
Have you ever read or seen the 1999 magazine articles about project MPG?
Yeah I might check the fuel pressure just to satisfy my curiosity. Actually, we ran the test with the hood open. So I actually gave the engine it’s best shot at making power with the CAI.
I’ve heard mention of project mpg on forums but I haven’t read anything about it. Where do I find it?
@@TheMinuteMasters performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/projectmpg_4-part_magazine_series.pdf
I brought this up because they tested the different intake set-ups, might give ya a few ideas.
Skitter302 Thanks! I’m definitely checking this out!
@@Skitter302 Thanks, that read was very illuminating!
Awesome! Glad I didn't listen to my brother about my 94 f150 5.8 and buy this "home run hitter" intake. Three bills would've been thrown out and I'd still be driving my Ram 2500 diesel. Miss Rollin the ole beast. Thanks for the service and keep it coming.
No problem man!🤙 Glad I was able to keep you from throwing three Benjamin’s away.
Yea, not worth it. Better off spending that $300 on an ounce of good weed.
Jericho Bargas Lolol
Can of nitro strapped with a hose Jerry rigged to the intake would be more effective
HERPY DERPEDY Definitely!
I hope you are not really paying 300 a o still...what year is it where your at 2010?
Andrew Martin lmao rs, i pay 165
Gotta drive it for a week or so. Then test it
.
Dont think thats make a difference you cant get no more proof than this
Was considering this intake, thanks for this video.
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Not all engines are made to just make power by adding a bolt on. That is why they always say if you want the most out of it, get a tune. From a tune they will find faults or adjustments needed to make it work more effectively but in the end you have have to spend another few hundred dollars to get everything to run with more boost. There are a few engines that can take advantage of easy bolt-on's.
I agree 100%! If this engine is one of those engines that need additional work for speed mods to work, than K&N should say so. Otherwise, their product looks like a failure.
Well when you have an older truck like that and you described your engine issues of course you’re not going to be satisfied with the product you need to balance everything out
Lee Scott So the engine issues are just guesses as to why the CAI didn’t work as advertised. Otherwise, K&N’s did test this K&N on a high mileage truck. Maybe a test after an engine rebuild would be a more fair test.
Mine works on my 2014 just fine. I notice a big difference while towing our 30 foot trailer.
Newer vehicles can see some gains because the newer intakes are more restrictive. What kind of truck do you have? What engine?
I will be adding the k & n intake, a BBK 61mm throttle body, edelbrock intake manifold, BBK shorty headers and custom side exhaust. Maybe that can wake up my 92 f150 a bit.
The bbk 61mm TB, the edelbrock intake, and headers will wake it up the most.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I plan on rebuilding the motor and transmission while I put that as well. I am not sure what mods to implement when rebuilding. Any tips would be appreciated.
@@TheCOWBOYRANCHER For the engine I would just go for the usual stock rebuild parts. If want more horsepower, I would consider getting a different set of heads and a cam. However, you will need to upgrade the fuel system for those mods.
For the transmission, get Kevlar clutches, OD, band, and reverse band. I have those in mine. I’m told they grip better and last longer. Also have at least a stage 1 shift kit installed. It speeds up shifting the first two gears which decreases wear. It also shifts the OD band faster too. If you don’t have an trans fluid cooler, I would add one. Heat is the biggest killer of transmissions.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for the information I’ll do a write up and see what I can do on my truck. 👍🏼
@@TheCOWBOYRANCHER No problem man!🤙 Good luck!
Your right 😁it's a peace of mind type of deal like I added the k&n intake kit so in my mind there's nothing I could ever do or need to do to get better air flow in to my engine lol sales gimmick the one and only plus is gonna be for the sound and they are really just made for the track take that out on dusty roads and they say lifetime filters so in most people's minds oh I save tons of money not having to buy new paper filters yay and then so now they get in the habit of never changing or cleaning their air filters ....k&n are oiled filters for the most part I believe they may sell dry filters to now but ya got to take it out bath it in soap ,rinse, and find a way to dry it with a heat gun ,hair dryer ,or have to leave it out in the sun for a day then you can re oil the filter since you removed the oil bathing the filter once oiled pop it in and your good to go for a few months .and if you don't clean the filter take it out and look down your intake tube and take notice of all the dirt sand etc that's on the walls of the tube yep all that dirt went right in to your nice healthy engine you turned into a sand blaster 🤩😎 I'm not hating on this it's just the cold hard truth for the everyday man
You are exactly right Matthew!🤙
Combine the k&n with air throttle body spacer, a flowmaster cat back exhaust system, and one of the 300-400 dollar hand held tuners you’ll see agains across the board
That’s at least $1000 worth of mods that make get 20-30 hp. $400 for a set of junkyard aluminum heads will get 20 hp.
You have drive the truck for about 50 to 100 miles for the computer to adjust for the extra air. The Fuel, Air and Timing are off right now, Any mechanic can figure that out, drive it for a few days and then dyno it again and i bet it makes more power.
Sounds like a redo is necessary
Cold air intakes r good, for sound maybe more hp, but when the day is hot which it’s like 90% time where I am u loose much more hp that u had before u added the CAI
Cxntz Z Yeah the become “hot air intakes” when it’s really hot out. Lol
This is true unfortunately... I have an off brand CAI on my 2008 accord with the K24 and it runs like $hit on hot days. Although it makes the engine sound REALLY nice.
5 hp stock doesnt seem to bad. I made 220 whp with heads, headers, and cam, thinking the k@n filter with stock intake may be a decent cheap boost before i get an intake. Also need to find a junkyard for one of those factory cold air intake manifold pieces. My tuner left me a bit rich to allow some flexibility, maybe it will be beneficial. Cool stuff!
Yup! Not bad! So you essentially got 50 Whp from those mods?
Yeah, unfortunately did not dyno before but based off of youtube videos I gained about 50 or so whp. @@TheMinuteMasters
Agreed. Just buy cold air intake off ebay for 50 60 bucks i put one on my Silverado1500 and it made a big difference no joke
Exactly! $300+ is way too much!
I have a K&N cold air intake and with a stock 1995 Ford F-150 5.0 302 V8 XLT Super Cab short bed and I felt a little bit better horse power
Ike Reedy So I thick a common reason why it feels better is because the intake sounds louder. Also switching to a k&n Filter in general produces power. The baseline dyno run was with a k&n filter in the stock air box. So you probably did gain power over a stock paper filter and air box, but maybe not over a stock intake with k&n filter. Now as you saw, my truck ran lean. Then we added starting fuel to balance it. Maybe the correct fuel to air ratio from the injectors is need to make this mod work. I may revisit this mod down the road in an effort to see what it takes to make it work.
You felt? No your brain tricked you into thinking you felt it since you just spent time adding an item that “guarantees” more horse power.
Right on , Cheers From NL , Canada
Thanks man!🤙
I, too, like to think about little things to improve and upgrade my vehicles, not just the truck. Bring it into the new century. I am a tinkerer and like doing things.
J. R. Thompson I’m the same way! It’s always nice to find a better way of doing things.
This intake is underrated with the extra air for hemi
I could see this improving a Hemi.
More air requires more fuel period. In the old days it was just a simple jet and spring change now its hundreds of dollars for a fuel management system. But thats progress.
Exactly!
I didnt like running one of these. It looks cool but... this is what I found out by having one for 5 years:
1> the setup is bad. The filter is only supported by the airtube. So when you drive over bumps it caused the whole assembly to bounce up and down. Now think about the plastic tube that tapirs down and the rubber boot that hose clamps onto it, it will just keep slipping off.
2> the fact that you are pulling air from the bay not fresh air. This is advertised as a fresh air intake but really you are just putting a bigger filter in that lets you hear the throttle vacuum sound and actually sucks the air from the hot motor bay. also the filter gets wet way to easy, no water protection.
3> you will have to constantly tighten the screws up if you are 4x4ing at all. I found that the chrome brace would loosen up frequently and this would hasten the filter MAF assembly slipping off the end of the plastic air tube.
final thought, spend the 300 toward a Saginaw swap, metal idler swap, or high power alternator, or even a dual battery setup.
They definitely look cool, but you nailed all the reasons why they are terrible.
I highly recommend the other mods for sure! Thanks for comment! Excellent info!🤙
Buy a cheap $50 Ebay cold air intake and put a K&N filter on it. Lol
Right! I mean $300+ is insane! I could have a custom TiG welded intake made for that price. lol
You could maybe even build a cold air intake instead of a hot air intake
@@TheMinuteMasters based on your knowledge about performance do you think a naturally aspirated 4cylinder with headers and high flow cats would still struggle to beat a completely factory v6?
@@cedricmiller4370 Well I don’t have that answer off hand. However, I’m always inclined to think the v6 will beat a 4c because 6v usually have that much more power. The only thing that usually limited a v6 is the car that carries it. V6 cars are usually bigger and weight more. This relationship is your power to weight ratio. More power and less weight is faster. Your 4c car could be much lighter and therefore get more horsepower benefit. That being said, a high flow car can free up a little horsepower but I’m not sure if it’s enough to make a huge performance difference. Now, depending on the car headers can give you anywhere from 10-20 hp. Honestly, it’s all about research. Compare the weight of the cars. Compare the horsepower. Calculate the power to weight ratio. Figure out how much horsepower you gained from your mods. Who knows, if weight is the same, you could be even on horsepower.
Did anyone see the video on here where the guy flipped his air box upside down? He said it gave him more power and better fuel mileage. Idk about that.
That’s crazy talk… Let me see
i know this is older but you just saved me some bucks
Great to hear man!🤙
Alot of r&d goes into designing the stock air box. Your better off with a quality drop in filter
Sgt W Exactly! Smarter people and millions of dollars have been invested in engine technology. Small improvements can be made where cost prohibited the manufacturer from doing so. But that’s it.
I did an Airaid system on my 2005 Dakota. No I wasnt expecting a huge change and didnt get it. Except when I tow my trailer. Noticeable better mileage when towing. The air system along with the Gibson exhaust gave me about 1.5 miles per gallon gain. Are they worth it? Depends on what your using truck for.
Is the Gibson exhaust a full cat back style or just a muffler and down pipe?
@@TheMinuteMasters its full cat back
@@raybaker8726 I think you might have picked up your 1.5 mpg from the catback. Opening up restrictive factory exhausts always helps.
Just did a spectre air filter on my 10th gen 4.6. Considering it already had a come filter from the factory, i dont see the point of going further then that. Maybe a throttle body and plenum with an exhaust and tune at some point, but in no hurry
Yeah if you have the cone filter from the factory, you are pretty much there. I would definitely invest other intake and exhaust parts for sure.
Gotta leave it on the truck for 60 miles... then the ecu will re learn the fueling tables for the new intake. I’ve got that setup on my 100k mile truck new fuel pump & filter it absolutely blows the doors off a buddies truck with the drop in filter.
Is that what the directions say? What year and brand truck? Did you dyno the results?
@@TheMinuteMasters all the older efi fords have a relearn period, and mines a 96 5.0 4r70w 4x4 single cab long bed. Never dyno’ it but I needed traction bars after putting the intake on and bending my leaf springs
@@TheMinuteMasters same truck as you
@@ChiefLightning9 Sounds like you are putting a lot of hp down if you need traction bars. You should definitely dyno your truck.
never seen any other videos on here of his but. here's the thing when I upgraded my Harley I put a k&n filter and exhaust on there.. absolutely have to adjust when you add mods any mod. so I could put on $2,000 worth of exhaust it's not necessarily going to build up my horsepower until I find tune the car to it so what's the difference if you do it with a $300 air filter the trick is you put all this stuff on there how you build horsepower is the more air and fuel you can get in and out. so yeah you put on the better air filter you put on the better exhaust like my Harley put bigger injectors in there to get more feel with the more air and then you find tune all that with a Dino and that's how you get everything to run perfect. anybody that does one step and think that's it you're wrong. you do all the little things and they add up like head work injectors air intake exhaust you put all that together and instead of 10 horse you can look at 50 or more. talk to anybody a race quarter mile and they will tell you you put all the mods together tune it all to work together properly !!!!!!
I agree 100% John! My issue is people are only putting the cold air intake on their vehicles and thinking they are gaining horsepower when they aren’t. Also K&N as part of their install directions don’t even recommend tuning your engine. This engine is OBD1 and isn’t tunable without modifying the ECU. However, K&N claims this CAI will make 10-15 hp on a 108k miles truck.
Some vehicles respond better than others is absolutely true. I have ran cold air intakes on a lot of different vehicles. The biggest difference made was on a 1995 Dodge v10 dually. Man did it wake it up compared to stock and gains over 3 mpg. Before 9.4 mpg after cold air intake and muffler install went up to 12.9 mpg. Almost all of the other vehicles were minimal to no change.
Big Show Yeah they definitely need to be considered on a case by case basis. The dyno tech said a CAI on a supercharged engine yielded almost 50 hp!
That's somehting I've seen with my 5.7 hemi's i put them on. As I've aged a bit, I'm easier on the throttle and my recent experence is on a new 2022 ram 1500...first tank was 4 miles to 410 miles with factory intake...15.9 average mpg. 2nd tank with K&N 77 series and average mpg 17.4 with VERY similar drive style and conditions. The sound change is what really keeps me smiling though. Just sounds better than stock..
Nice video good job 👍 I agree those k&n filters are garbage that's why I decided to buy a motorcraft air filter
Thanks man!🤙 yeah it’s best to stick to the paper filters.
Thank you I was outside of the auto parts to buy this air intake but before buy it I decided to watch some reviews about it so you save me $349
You’re welcome man!🤙
Hey man I've been watching your videos all week becuase nearly every one of your videos is exactly what I need. At some point do you think you'll do a overall tour of your truck?
Tushar Mountain Ironworks Thanks man! I’m glad you enjoy them! I sure can. I wasn’t sure if at this point if anyone wanted to see how the truck looks.
@@TheMinuteMasters My truck is very similar and I wrecked it right before Christmas so I've been rebuilding it and taking care of maintenance stuff since its 20+ years old. Really appreciate your videos!!!
Damn! Sorry to hear that man. I wish I had a video of me rebuilding the entire front end of my truck. Where did your truck take a hit?
@@TheMinuteMasters Hit a deer going 60 about right in the center of the grill, it smashed everything up front into a crumpled mess
That will do it! I can't remember where I bought by new radiator support but I definitely got it online. I bought the entire headlight, grille, and mounting bracket/frame on Ebay. I replaced the driver's side fender and I bought that from I think raybucks.com. I try to buy things using Amazon because I have prime. So you can use amazon or autopartswarehouse to get a new radiator. You can get a hood from just about anyone who sells any new panels for our trucks. I used the Prothane or energy suspension bushings for the body mount bushings. You will still need to buy gem bolts for it if I remember correctly. That should just about put the front back together.
Why would you run a test on a vehicle with that many problems ?
Robert P The engine doesn’t have any diagnosed problems. Even the dyno tech said it was perfectly fine. If by problems you mean a high mileage vehicle, then yes it’s probably not a perfect test bed. However, K&N tester this intake on a high mileage truck and includes the dyno print out. At the end of the day, K&N is selling an expensive product tested on a stock, high mileage truck and they claimed it made more power.
You did not tune it or look at the air temps / flow etc. They used to say a stock airbox was best as engineers / manufacturers spent thousands of hours on it. Lo and behold when the Ford FPV GS 5.0 supercharged came i saw that it had a POD FILTER and CAI AS STANDARD. Which got me thinking why would the newer models deliver this sort of air intake and not just a enclosed box. Besides if you have a maf its already just taking regulating what air it takes in. Put in a haltech with no maf and run it on the dyno then we can see and tune it for that with temp readings.
I agree 100% a tune would work wonders for this CAI. However, they advertise it as “bolt on” and don’t mention tuning. Not that tuning an OBD1 truck would be easy either.
Not worth spending $300
Maybe 100$
W inflation I just paid $525 from redline 😢
@@kristopherlopez5583 definitely not worth $525
If it isn't broken,.. don't fix it. Very interesting results that you got. Was better without the fresh air system.
J. R. Thompson Yup! The general consensus is, the factory intake is both direct and pulls in cool air. Other makes and models will have different results but for this truck, just keep the stock filter clean.🤙
Ehhhh I won’t consider this a good test lmao
SVU Cars hahahaha
Just wish your truck was running mint lol
SVU Cars Even 20k miles after this test. Prrrs like a kitten!🤙
It's not K&N fault you have potential old clogged up fuel injectors and other broken parts ....
It’s not a valid test.... fix the fuel problems, , Then Do comparisons ...you won’t get a reduction in power..once your fuel situation is fixed.. which by the way needs fixing regardless
I was that the ecu after few miles can adapt itself. It would be great to do a new test
I’m thinking a new test is needed too.
The problem is you have a pos truck that's to old to adjust to the new amount of air
Luke Rose And yet K&N tested it on a high mileage truck and claimed it would make power. At least, that’s what the paperwork and dino chart said that came with it.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mileage isn't a true indicator of condition. A high mile engine that's been treated with full syn oil and proper service intervals could have minimal compression loss. Another high mile engine that's had the same filters for 3 years and oil changed 15,000mi, idled for hours, could be a wheezing hoopty ready for the scrap pile.
hi, Can you tell me the part number of the intake and filter? please
it sound awesome and with a bit of tuning it will make power. Or on some cars it will even without. So not really worthless
The key word is tuning. The K&N directions and marketing material do not indicate a tune is needed to make the CAI work properly. Furthermore, this year truck is OBDI which isn’t tunable without physically modifying the ECU. Needing to physically modifying the ECU and needing a tune make this a “non-bolt on” horsepower mod.
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
Maybe try on a newer truck that isn’t an old f150.
Your findings are based on old truck.
Dustin Smith This is true. However, I found that more people with old trucks are actively trying to add more power. Newer trucks have way more horsepower from the factory.
I have a 4.6L and went to the junkyard and pulled a 5.4l k&n can I put a block and seal up where the existing sensor is on the 5.4 and make a new hole seal it up and reroute where my sensor is on my 4.6l stock air intake to make the 5.4 work along with a 45 degree coupling for my 4.6? I believe the 4.6 is 3" and the 5.4 is 4".
That sounds like it could work. As long as all your penetrations and fittings seal properly, you shouldn’t have any air leakage issues.
@@TheMinuteMasters that's what I was thinkin just needed an extra input on the matter I paid $22 bucks at the junkyard so why not give it a go. I looked online and they go for $350 plus.
@@Bluelineclapper312 Oh yeah! For $22 I would definitely try to make it work. K&N CAI’s are ridiculously expensive.
You just paying for the name
Yeah I’m pretty sure some people say you have to tune the engine a little when you add a k&n intake I think that’s like half true because you could run it without it if you won’t like the noise and don’t really care for power but if you want the full potential maybe you have to tune it
You are definitely right! You need to tune these CAIs for them to work properly.
The computer has to relearn AFR for a few hundred miles before getting any power increase. Anyway i would like to see a dunk video on an underdrive pully kit. I think they are 119 bucks.
I let the truck run a bit on the dyno before we do the two pulls. I might revisit the CAI in the future and rule out all the variables that may prevent it from working.
I totally forgot about underdrive pullies. I'll add that to the list of mods to test. Thanks!
I agree. you'll feel and see a performance loss or no performance at first. After a full drive cycle you'll feel a nice hp gain.
Its worth the money it just needs more logic to it. Cold air intakes are meant to work with free flow exhausts/decat and a remap or tune. Why should you expect power or performance if you still have back pressure from the exhaust worst if your cat is clogged.A full set up allows your engine to breath better hence; engine revs quicker and more eager to hit the redline faster in any gear. Its more like having flue and only removing mucus in your nose and not unclogging your throat, you wont really breath
You make a good point. However, K&N advertises this CAI as a bolt on, no additional mods needed, and no tune, method to increase horsepower. This means the product as is does not work as advertised. If the product needs additional help to work, then K&N needs to say so and advertise as such.
Any aftermarket part is going to require tuning your vehicle. A lot of the newer vehicles auto tune the fuel and air intake so you can actually get results that are printed out of a bolt on part like the cold air intake w/e brand you go with.
Wow that was a terrible run on sentence.
Matthew Michels I totally agree! However, this product is advertised as a bolt on horsepower adder for an OBD1 vehicle. OBD1 is only tunable if you add a tuning feature to the motherboard. Otherwise, you can’t (as I’ve been told) tune an OBD1 ecu. With that said, if in fact K&N’s CAIs require a tune to work, then they should advertise the product as only increasing horsepower after a proper tune. Or in this case rebuilding the ECU and then tuning.
Hahaha! I always have to correct myself for run-on sentences when I make comments on TH-cam too.
Dude if your only pushing 150-160hp from that v8 it has serious wear issues, my 1995 302 h.o is pushing out 230hp, it has headders tho.if you ram more air in naturally you need more fuel to make it burn clean and proper, you have to up size your injectors or tweek the c.p.u for more fuel.
Is your 230 hp measured at the crank or the wheels? 150 hp is at the wheels. Also mine is a regular 302 and yours is a 302 High Output. The HO V8 have more power.
Everything else is correct. Bigger injectors and a tune could wake the CAI up. However, K&N doesn’t say you need a tune for their product to work. That is why I say it’s junk on these stock trucks.
This is a short ram intake. Where is the COLD?
TheAfrothunderr I’m with that on that. It’s the original layout of the stock intake (length and direction) but there is no box surrounding the cone filter and no inlet for outside cold air. But K&N advertises this as a cold air intake.
Should of reset the electronic throttle body I definitely don't think it would make a difference compared to a clean stock system but definitely wouldn't of dropped HP or torque may help with mpg
My throttle body is operated by a steel cable to the gas pedal. Otherwise, there is a TPS sensor.
@@TheMinuteMasters lol your right I was watching stuff about the 5.4l that's not even fuel injected is it lol
@@3613jeremy Yup, this is the Ford 5.0L which is the fuel injected version of the 302.
Ohh that's the old school 5.0L that I grew up with when 200hp was considered fast
@@3613jeremy Yup! 😂 Now 200 hp is commuter sedan standard hp. Lol
If it is going lean is it possible that the MAF "pegged" ie. At max flow sensing so any additional air wasn't accounted for?
Which if this was the case it would require a custom computer tune and a larger MAF not just a bolt on mod.
Also I don't like the fact that it is a warm air intake.
Exactly! So many people don’t get that. If this CAI actually works it needs a custom tune which takes it out of the easy bolt on mod. Not to mention, this is an OBD1 truck and you would have to modify the ECU in order to tune it.
I agree! Definitely a hot air intake.
I think this guy has a point clearly k@n dropped the ball otherwise I'd buy one for mine
Jacob Mcknight You said it man. I went into this test wanting so bad for the K&N CAI to work. After all, the CAI really cleans up the engine bay and looks awesome. I can’t tell you how disappointed I felt when I looked at the dyno charts and saw the crappy results. Real bummer. K&N needs to step up their game or be challenged by a competitor.
XC The fuel system is in perfect operational condition. The dyno tech made an unverified suggestion. After all, the truck ran fine through all the other tests and idles perfectly.
At least it make it sound louder?
Marco A. Betancourt So I shortened and opened up the factory intake. So the K&N is maybe a tiny bit louder.
I made my own for around 50 ucks
So just the filter gave you 5HP and now you install the full kit and lose HP….something is def wrong there. I would try this test again on a truck with less miles on it. I have a CAI on my accord and can def feel the difference.
So what I’ll tell people is newer cars probably benefit a little more from something like this because the intakes are usually not very straight. This year of Ford has a very straight intake. so add another straight intake probably doesn’t do anything. But you do make a good point that it should’ve at least made as much power as the filter itself.
I absolutely love my 95 F150 5.0 but boy do I wish it was OBD2. OBD1 makes tuning so much more expensive and difficult. Plus OBD2 codes are much easier to read and are more detailed. These trucks aren’t the easiest to get power from but they sure do look the best doing it!
Me too! I’d love to be able to tune my truck for different mods. I’m told for OBD1 the MAF controls a lot.
If you add a high performance chip would that help the cold air intake function better to deliver more horses?
With the correct type of tuning you can definitely make these CAIs work. However, on older OBD1 vehicles that’s very hard to do without rebuilding the ECU. Having to rebuild an ECU to make it tunable makes these K&N CAIs not exactly bolt on horsepower mods.
would a 2013 3.5 eco boost f-150 benefit from a CAI and would it cause any issues with the MAF sensor ?
Since the ecoboost is a forced induction engine, you could see actually gains from a CAI. However, you’d have to dyno it to know for sure. The filters used by K&N do let more dirt particles by than a paper filter.
@@TheMinuteMasters I bought an S@B CAI any thoughts on them?
I've heard the oil residue from the filter can contaminate the MAF sensor.
I’ve heard the same thing.
I think it's worth it depending on the status of your car, if it's not well maintained then its definitely not worth imo
Pegasus Motor Company The dyno tech told me K&N CAI are always mixed results. He said you always see gains on forced induction engines or engines with an extremely restrictive factory intake. This truck isn’t force indicted and the factory intake is wide and straight.
@@TheMinuteMasters is it only results from your f150 model year or just results from f150 in general?
Pegasus Motor Company These results are only from this generation of f150. Although, I have heard similar results from other vehicles. The safest bet is to test your own vehicle on a dyno with a K&N and see for yourself.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I guess that's the only way to find if it did any effect
Pegasus Motor Company exactly! And hey the cool thing is, going to a Dyno is a really neat experience. It’s an experience that you can share with people when they ask you if that K&N works. It makes for a good “do you even Dyno bro“ moment. Lol
Mahalo for this video. I don't understand how the K & N kit can be a true cold air intake. It sits in the engine compartment where there is plenty of heat. That shield around the cone filter seems useless to me. There is no cold air plenum being routed to the filter intake or having it located towards the bottom of the motor... anywhere where it can get more fresh air routed to it. The way it's set up, it's just getting the hot air from the motor that's somewhat stuck inside the engine bay. I guess one can drive around without a hood!? Function needs to work with form. This thing seems to be all form.
No problem man!🤙 You are exactly this is more of a “hot air intake.” The filter really does need its own air box that draws air from outside the engine bay. Hoodless would be cool but rain would always be an issue. Granted, you could treat a hood like soft tops on a Jeep. Off when the sun is out and on when the sun isn’t.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mahalo for your reply. Hahaha, a convertible engine hood! Brilliant! I have a '96 Explorer and I'm thinking the diameter of the inlet tube and the MAF is more than adequate. I have felt a noticeable difference with a larger exhaust from stock 2" to a Flowmaster 2.25" and a 50 series muffler. That was on my '91 Explorer. For my '96 Explorer, about to place on a Flowmaster 2.25" pipe with a 40 series muffler (it's about 5" shorter than the 50 series). It'll be nice to have the motor run a bit more efficiently and see the mpg go up a bit. I toy with the idea of going with a 2.5" or 3.0", but maybe that's too large of a diameter? Your thoughts.
Darryl Eng Health Fitness & Martial Arts Right! Lol Nice! Flowmasters definitely sounds great! I prefer Magnaflow muffler because they are straight through flow designs. For your exhaust I’d stick to 2.5” max. I’ve been told 3” and wider is for higher horsepower/ forced induction.
@@TheMinuteMasters Mahalo. I was seriously going through Flowmaster, Magnaflow and Borla. Ended up with Flowmaster again just because I feel the in cockpit decibels will be a bit more tolerable. However, I think the 40 series is going to be louder than the 50 series. My '96 Explorer has the 4.0 OHV Cologne motor that makes about 160HP. Maybe 2.25" is just about right. I'm not sure what bolt on stuff I can do get more HP and efficiency out of that motor. I haven't found much in the way of headers, throttle body extras to improve the HP. Suggestions? Otherwise it looks like larger pistons, port/polish, balance the crank.
In my Scirocco, yes I have a Scirocco 16V, I am getting rid of the horribly loud IMCO that a previous owner put on and place on my Techtonics 2.25 cat back with a Dynomax muffler. Has just the right amount of tone and resonance for me.
Darryl Eng Health Fitness & Martial Arts Yup! The 40 series is louder than the 50 for sure. Honestly, I don’t know much about the 4.0 in the explorers. I know the 5.0 explorers have great aluminum heads that f150 can use to increase horsepower.
I think for your engine, you would be looking into boring the engine pistons larger and port and polish job. You could also look into having a cam shaft made if you can’t find a performance one. The crank comes pretty well balance from the factory. Although, you could look more into balance it further.
Nice! That’s a cool car. Definitely not common in the US. I hear dynomax are good too!
I put the K&N cold air intake with the K&N exhaust on my 2017 Chevrolet Silverado and the pick up is considerably more noticeable. Never while driving before the upgrade was I able to spin tires or lose traction and now after the change I am able to around 20 m/h. I also recently bought new tires so it’s not a traction issue. One other thing to take into consideration is I also added the throttle modulator as well. The module doesn’t increase horsepower but changes response time. I would say do all three and then see for yourself. I spent less then $1300 and no way would I go back with the original setup.
You will see a gain with your truck because you have a newer system. OBDII ecu are also programmable.
This truck is old and has an OBDI ecu which isn’t tunable. The intake on this year truck is also very direct. So there really is no room for improvement.
Yeah, I hate I already got one and can’t tell too much difference!!
You can always return it if you have all the parts. I returned this CAI right after I shot this video. Lol
They said it would make power on a proper engine that's been maintained. Expecting factory fuel system to be in top shape 225k later is stupid. Even the dyno operator told you your pos probably has underlying neglect that is leaning it out.
XC The compression is within specs and the dyno operator said “maybe” my fuel system needed work. HOWEVER, he couldn’t and didn’t verify that and said my engine runs perfectly fine through all the other tests. This wasn’t my first time at the dyno with this same truck. I was merely suggesting a remote possibility to let K&N off easy.
I just want the stock air box back so my truck will pass the smog check.
You will definitely need to get the stock air box back.
Strange results because it looks like a really high flowing setup
Compared to the stock intake it’s only slightly better. But even if it has more flow, the ecu still needs to be able to handle it.
@@TheMinuteMasters thats what i thought, maybe they had to re tune the ecu
@@gabrielpichardo1492 If the ecu In this truck was tunable, we probably would’ve went that route for the test.
Ok understood
Maybe an electrical fan conversion. Before and after
Rashad Jackson So to save myself a little money. I removed the mechanical fan and did a dyno run without it.
th-cam.com/video/rCsH6ta3r40/w-d-xo.html
Here is the video.
Caught me sleeping checked the video out and was i impressed kinda figures though. going efan soon and under pulleys cheapest mod i can do at the moment maybe this later www.ebay.com/itm/302-FORD-GT40-3-BAR-PAIR-OF-CYLINDER-HEADS-F3ZE-WITH-7-16-HEAD-BOLT-HOLES-/254113040949?oid=253121982105
Not a bolt on instant power.. I agree
But have your ride retuned will wake your ride up.. Cost more money yes..
I was happy AF.. after
I agree 100%🤙 The tune is the expensive part.
Generic cold air intakes do the same. So spend less and get some added benefits. Remember that K&N is a trademark name.
Who ever sells this product must pay a royalty just to carry that name. Then they have to pay interest on the consignment order.
Get a generic cold air intake. It does the same thing
Are there secondary benefits besides power? Any influence on fuel economy, engine longevity, etc.?
A test for fuel economy could be worth trying but losing horsepower probably translates into a loss of mpg. As for engine longevity, the filter used by K&N is know to let dirt particles through. They are known for letting enough dirt through to cover the wire on a MAF and cause problems.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks! Makes me wonder why anyone does this....
@@nyak63RUS Marketing mostly. However, there are horsepower gains with forced induction engines. Performance products like this CAI are great for performance applications. For example, the filter isn’t the best but for a few clean track days it doesn’t matter. Also, if you rebuild your race engine regularly, then it doesn’t matter how much micro dirt gets into your intake.
If I'm not mistaken, increasing air flow, as advertised, would require the vehicle computer to recalibrate itself, over time, to adjust for that flow to get the Air/Fuel ratio correct, and isnt exactly an out-of-the-box instant change. Try driving around a bit with the CAI and then dyno, you yourself admitted the engine ran lean, it needs time and miles to adjust itself at different points in the RPM spectrum.
A few people have suggested that there is an extended learning period for the engine to properly adjust to a CAI. The dyno tech says that period is short, which is why I came to the conclusion of this video. However, it might just be worth a try in order to see this experience through.
@@TheMinuteMasters I know from my truck sitting with no battery for about 8 months that when I went to smog it, the computer didnt read correctly, and the tech said I needed to drive it for about 50 miles or so, varying speeds and rpm, with occasional periods of idle both in gear and out for the computer to reset itself and adjust for driving and altitude conditions, maybe you could drive a week or so normal daily driving with the CAI, and then dyno it to see if that makes a change
@@CowboyCree63 I’ll definitely keep that in mind when I get back to testing engine performance mods.
I know for a fact that it works as long as it’s getting more air and it depends on the different sit ups and vehicles some will get more and some will get less using that truck to experiment with is a very bad choice I wouldn’t expect anything to happen with it the motor is probably about shot
The dyno tech said NA engines hardly see any gains. Forced induction see the most gains.
K&N tested this CAI on a high mileage truck like mine. So I don’t think that’s the issue.
Dang. I don't want hors power,
I want better millage for my gallons.
Any modifications for an f150?
Thank you guys.
So mpg might be a little harder to come by. However, there is a special tune up called the “Six liter” tune up, which is supposed to help with mpg. 👇
www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ignition-upgrade-and-timing-bump-no-56k.63592/
I still run stock air box with K&N drop in filter and it does just fine....however I did install a BBK twin 61mm throttle body and I can see and feel a difference in it and I still haven't matched the plenum to the new TB size....oh and before the knowitalls start up...that's in a 89 F150 with a rebuilt 5.0
Thank You
You’re welcome man!🤙
Anyone with any knowledge whatsoever of how engines work, knows you need to increase air and fuel for gains. One or the other just changes your mixture.
Intake, exhaust, injectors & tune / jets.
This is exactly true. However, K&N sells and markets this product with no requirement for a tune. If is requires a tune to work (which it probably does) then the directs should say so. Furthermore they make a product for an OBD1 vehicle and OBD1 ECUs are not tunable without being modified first. This makes this horsepower gain scenario even more complicated.
So should I put the K&N cold air intake on my truck I just bought or am I gonna need a tune afterwards? Any info helps thanks guys.
Doc Holiday You can do whatever you like. If you have a tuneable ECU (usually OBD2)(this truck is an OBD1 and can’t be tuned with the stock ECU) then you definitely want to try and the K&N work. Turbos and superchargeda benefit a lot from CAIs. Some eom air intakes are very restrictive and will also see a good gain. The 91-96 f150s don’t though.
@@TheMinuteMasters I've got a 2014 Silverado 5.3 I wanna put it on what's your thoughts on that?
Doc Holiday I think on the new Silverado’s the K&N does add some power because the intakes have all the sound dampening chambers. So you can definitely give it a shot. As far as tuning a 2014, I think you can. The only down side to any K&N filters is the actually filter element doesn’t keep all the dirt out. Basically, to gain power, you lose filtering.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for the info
Doc Holiday No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
You cant just put the filter on you have to retune the engine to make up for the difference in air flow thats where the power comes from more air more fuel more power
I understand that the engine needs to be tuned to accept a cold air intake. However, the directions do not indicate that a tune is needed, which is why I say this doesn’t work well as a plug and play horsepower mod.
With that said, I think I may revisit this test in the future.
You think its a good idea to replace the intake while having the battery disconnected?
Jorge Damian You can disconnect The intake with the battery disconnected or connected.
@@TheMinuteMasters so it wont make a difference. Was maybe thinking the ecu would help due to the variations in the fuel to air ratio thats going to change
Jorge Damian When the ecu senses a change in the fuel to air ratio it will adjust on its own. Disconnecting the battery and installing the CAI doesn’t really speed up the process. The engine still has to go through the “learning” process which is just seconds for electronics.
Does a 4.6 3 valve or the old 2 valve dog
This is a 5.0L.
I'll be getting one of these Junks soon and it's K&N Air filter sounds like he says Cannon..
If you say K&N fast it definitely sounds like cannon. Lol
I just bought a 21' camaro rs and if I wanted a faster car I honestly wouldve bought a ss and been done with it...the rs is more than enough power (for me)...300.+ up...im Good...maybe a little more growl from the exhaust but that's it..plus all my mod money is going toward that monthly meeting...😁
Nice! I’m with ya. If you want speed, buy the faster car, but 300 hp would suit me fine.🤙 A hood exhaust note is appreciated.
How do they even get away with calling it a cold air intake? The factory intake is more of a cold air intake than this crap, all it does is suck air from the hot engine bay and make obnoxious noises so it sounds like you got more power
austin jensen Honestly man, I have no idea. I can only imagine it’s just been years of good marketing that has people convinced these work. Granted there is evidence to show they do increase power on forced induction vehicles. However, it’s still a “hot air intake”.
On my opinion on my 1990 Chevy 350 I got the k&n filter and I get better gas mileage and less horsepower
Wait better mpg but less hp?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
@@JoseGutierrez-db9mr interesting