I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee sport 4 cyl. Quoted at a Jeep dealership $432.00 to change out 4 spark plugs because its a 2 hr job. I went home, watched TH-cam and did it myself. Started at 7:45am and was finished and cleaning up the tools 25 mins later. Only cost me $34 for the 4 spark plugs
The service center had quoted me for about $295 for 4 spark plugs for my KIA. I got OEM plugs for like, $50. Changing them only took me about 30 minutes to change them.
I dread to think what the dealer quotes for a hemi Ram that has 16 plugs (2 spark plugs per cylinder x 8). I looked under the hood of my 2500 and the back couple coil packs are buried pretty far back under the cowl. Does not look to be a fun job! Oh well they say the plugs last 100K miles and that’s a long way off for me before I have to decide if I’m up for that challenge!
@@bradschroeder809totally doable at home, get a few old pillows or foam pieces and pay on top of the engine. Uncomfortable, yes. Definitely encourages you to work faster and smarter...
You're paying for the convenience of someone else to do it. I hope you gapped them properly without ruining the electrode and didn't over tighten everything
@@bradschroeder809I’ve changed the plugs on 4 x hemi engines (2007 Magnum R/T AWD, 2005 Magnum R/T, 2004 Ram 1500 and 2003 Ram 2500). The rear plugs are in a tight spot but just take your time and get a great flashlight back there. They aren’t that bad. You got this!
I took my 2007 Hyundai Sonata to the dealership for an oil change. Since then I found a mechanic near my house. The dealership told me that I needed $2,500 worth of repairs. I laughed and said no thanks. When I later took the car to a local mechanic and asked him to look the car over. When I picked it up I asked him about the items that the dealership said that I needed 6 months earlier. I didn’t need any of them. I drove the car another 6 years and never had any of the items done. I worked in the automotive industry for 45 years and saw plenty.
For many people who do not keep a vehicle long term, your advice is okay. There are fluids you do want to change (forever or not) as they do get contaminated or degrade. For people that keep their cars, fluid changes are important. Better than buying a transmission or power steering unit (thousands of dollars). I look at the fluids that come out. Occasionally it provides strong evidence that it was 100% to my advantage. Want your car to last 150, 000 to 300,000 miles? Change those fluids!
This is why I drive manual ;) If you look at most older books, they recommend changing the fluid on automatics ( not flushing it ) every 30K or so. My manual? Replacing the gear oil won't hurt it at all, when it needs to be done. Dump, clean the magnet off, add more. Simple as that. :)
When you "drain" the auto trans attached to my 2GR-FE, about 2.5 quarts come out. This is without removing the pan, which retains some fluid, but there's a whole lot more in the converter that won't come out. Because it's such a small volume of oil, I do this change yearly. The oil that comes out looks and smells exactly like the new WS fluid that I put in, and I want to keep it that way.
I've had flushes done, on my terms, on all of my vehicles since the late 1990's. A radio show, Goss's Garage, pointed out that BG will cover damage to your transmission up to 250,000 miles, as long as you follow their recommended flush times. Transmission flushes need to be done within the first 36,000 miles then within 30,000 miles after. My Sierra has nearly 240,000 miles, our Chevy Malibus have had over 100,000 miles with no issues. My Sierra gets regular flushes. I haven't had issues with anything. I am also very involved with my vehicles. I've caught a dealership trying to scan me and they're dead to me. The other dealership I use now knows me and is good to me. That being said, I wouldn't just trust a dealership because they're a dealership,I am lucky to have found a good one. I think this guy has had experiences.woty bad dealerships.
Don't do flushes but there are fluids you definitely need to change, fluids are not forever and if you want your car to last over 100k miles you should. If you change transmission fluid every 60k miles you should be fine, if its over 100k dont do it. Coolant, also requires change cause that thing gets acidict with time and can destroy seals. Notice I say change, not flush, 2 different things.
Yeah I agree with most of what chevy dude is saying but not so sure not changing trans fluid is a wise idea unless someone has no intention of owning it outside the 5year 60K powertrain warranty
Yeah I flush mine at 90k and it cost me a whole car! I had to replace it with another car! I love my new car but shishhh. the headaches I went through for several days
glad someone brought this up I about questioned what I was watching when he said that. I took my dad's 220k mile Lexus to get a transmission drain and fill with a quart of Lucas no slip additive and this was about a couple years ago. It was a gamble, maybe, because I have no idea when it was done last. Car's at almost 250k and counting, and I know when I'll be doing it again.
at my work, cvts get drain & fill. rec rwd trans every 60k. if it has 100k and no history then it's good. i've also declined sevices when not needed. less $$ in my pocket but doing the right thing by customer
I worked as a student tech at a ford dealership years ago. I found that there’s usually one or two technicians that really know what they’re doing. The rest kind of fly by the seat of their pants. I literally had a guy tell me to take something off someone’s car “to see what it does!”
Also easy on my wife's 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl. The valve covers for my 2016 RX350 are buried beneath a beauty cover, the intake manifold, and the wiper assembly. Ugh!
Never listen to manufacturer about service. Go by the manufacturer of the parts. For example my truck has the ZF 8 speed automatic transmission. Mopar says lifetime fluid. ZF says change it at 80k. Who do you think I listened to
Exactly... to a manufacturer, "lifetime" is just until your warranty runs out. They would love nothing more than for you to need major maintenance the day after the warranty expires.
Cars can last a long time these days, I don't want 25 year old trans fluid, at least do a drain and fill to get some new stuff in there before it gets too old.
I stopped going to a dealership entirely when the Service Department hard sold a laundry list of fluid exchanges and cleaners to my wife. I had asked her to take in our '21 Charger for its first oil change at 3500 miles. They had her convinced that she was going to invalidate the warranty for not performing $2500 worth of "service."
Not all dealers are like this. I treat my client's money like me own. Always honest and will actually tell people when it's not smart to invest in their current car. Do I lose that sale? Yes but I gained the trust and a client for life.
@@FrankRizzo557 The main charge is labor, which is typically now $200-$250 an hour. Because of "inflation". Despite the mechanics still making $25 -$30 an hour.
I’m fortunate, my hubby has been an auto mechanic for 36 years at the same shop, whenever my car breaks down or has a problem, he takes to work and fixes it, usually it’s cheap… he tells me I’m spoiled, when he tells me what it would cost if I took it in to a shop, I’m blown away.😂
Disagree with the trans fluid change. You shouldn't flush it, but you should drain and fill every 30k miles or so. The 100K miles in the manual is convenietly right as the warranty runs out. There isn't a fluid around that can still look good 100k miles down the road.
Ive never done that service in any of my vehicles but most recently I rebuilt the transmission on my 2015 Malibu w/267k+ miles and the transmission shop told me to never go without servicing the transmission Even tho I asked them to rebuild and replace all transmission fluid lines/filter/ and transmission cooler They told me they were able to save the cooler by flushing out all the metal shavings that were inside it. It did take a few days more but they said they were able to get it clean and suggested I do a 30k mile maintenance flush obviously I do drive my vehicles a lot so 30k for me might be twice a year service but its better than rebuilding a transmission because most vehicles now have their transmission fluid filter deep inside the transmission which makes it hard to service or very expensive The cheaper route is definitely doing a full flush once or twice a year
@@Roberto-gp3yx Well I am assuming 257k+ miles on the highway. This will be about 30k to 40k miles in city. I drive my GM cars (like 8+ from 1996) in the city. Most of the transmissions fails form 110k to 140k. Unfortunately, I have learn how to service transmissions one year ago. Now, I ma changing filter every 30K miles or 3 years and refill 40-60% of the fluid every year within using Lubegard. All cars I bought 10+ years old within 30k to 40k miles. If, I have to go to the mechanic (except tire balancing and alignment), then the car is going to junkyard. Alternator, starter, intake, breaks, suspension and more …. are not issues for me. Rebuilding transmission is the end of the car. My current oldest Buick LeSabre is from 1997 has 110K. Last work was heater core + valve cover seals. It is still going. 3.8L GM engines are good (except plastic coolant system parts and intake gaskets). Transmissions are very weak part of old GM cars. Within supercharges transmissions are relay bad for this strong engines, even the car is fun to drive
@@andrzejmical5416 Yup there are all highway miles… the transmission was the only major mechanical issue I ever had on that car … I did learn not to go by what the dealerships say with the oil change intervals bc it messed up the oil control valve / both intake & rocker arm solenoids/ and the vacuum pump by following the 10k synthetic oil life… I switched to doing 5k oil change intervals and never had issues with the car ever again Unfortunately the car got wrecked but it had a great life and bc all the mechanical components where all original numbers matching and exterior was in great condition insurance gave me a more than fair payout Long story short maintenance goes a long way on a vehicle
You are correct.I was a tech for 49 years and have worked with my share of really bad ones and some good ones.If you go to a shop that you know has a good mechanic request that you only want him to work on your car.Most will go along with your request.
The easiest way to invalidate the warranty on your vehicle is to ignore the manufacturers maintenance schedule. If you do nothing else to your vehicle, get the service done that is required by the manufacturer. If there's a problem with your vehicle because you ignored the scheduled maintenance, they aren't going to cover the repair bill.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). Enacted in 1975, the federal statute governs warranties on consumer products. The law does not require any product to have a warranty (it may be sold "as is"), but if it does have a warranty, the warranty must comply with this law. The law was created to fix problems as a result of manufacturers using disclaimers on warranties in an unfair or misleading manner. Purpose According to the report from the House of Representatives which accompanied the law (House Report No. 93-1197, 93d Cong 2d Sess.), the Magnuson-Moss act was enacted by Congress in response to merchants' widespread misuse of express warranties and disclaimers. The legislative history indicates that the purpose of the act is to make warranties on consumer products more readily understood and enforceable and to provide the Federal Trade Commission with means to better protect consumers.[1] The act was sponsored by Senator Warren G. Magnuson of Washington and U.S. Representative John E. Moss of California, both Democrats, as well as Senator Frank Moss of Utah, who co-sponsored it with Magnuson. The statute is remedial and is intended to protect consumers from deceptive warranty practices. Consumer products are not required to have warranties, but if one is given, it must comply with the Magnuson-Moss Act. Definitions used The Magnuson-Moss Act contains many definitions: A "consumer" is a buyer of consumer goods for personal use. A buyer of consumer products for resale is not a consumer.[2] A "supplier" is any person engaged in the business of making a consumer product directly or indirectly available to consumers.[3] A "warrantor" is any supplier or other person who gives or offers a written warranty or who has some obligation under an implied warranty.[4] A "consumer product" is generally any tangible personal property for sale and that is normally used for personal, family, or household purposes. It is important to note that the determination whether a good is a consumer product requires a factual finding, on a case-by-case basis. Najran Co. for General Contracting and Trading v. Fleetwood Enterprises, Inc., 659 F. Supp. 1081 (S.D. Ga. 1986). A "written warranty" (also called an express warranty) is any written promise made in connection with the sale of a consumer product by a supplier to a consumer that relates to the material and/or workmanship and that affirms that the product is defect-free or will meet a certain standard of performance over a specified time. An "implied warranty" is defined in state law. The Magnuson-Moss Act simply provides limitations on disclaimers and provides a remedy for their violation. Designations: A "full warranty" is one that meets the federal minimum standards for a warranty. Such warranties must be "conspicuously designated" as full warranties. If each of the following five statements is true about a warranty's terms and conditions, it is a "full" warranty: There is no limit on the duration of implied warranties. Warranty service is provided to anyone who owns the product during the warranty period; that is, the coverage is not limited to first purchasers.[5] Warranty service is provided free of charge, including such costs as returning the product or removing and reinstalling the product when necessary. There is provided, at the consumer's choice, either a replacement or a full refund if, after a reasonable number of tries, the warrantor is unable to repair the product. It is not required of consumers to perform any duty as a precondition for receiving service, except notifying that service is needed, unless it can be demonstrated that the duty is reasonable. A "limited warranty" is one that does not meet the federal minimums. Such warranties must be "conspicuously designated" as limited warranties. A "multiple warranty" is part full and part limited. A "service contract" is different from a warranty because service contracts do not affirm the quality or workmanship of a consumer product. A service contract is a written instrument in which a supplier agrees to perform, over a fixed period or for a specified duration, services relating to the maintenance or repair, or both, of a consumer product. Agreements that meet the statutory definition of service contracts, but are sold and regulated under state law as contracts of insurance, do not come under the Act's provisions. Disclaimer or Limitation of Implied Warranties when a service contract is sold: Sellers of consumer products who make service contracts on their products are prohibited under the act from disclaiming or limiting implied warranties.[6] Sellers who extend written warranties on consumer products cannot disclaim implied warranties, regardless of whether they make service contracts on their products. However, sellers of consumer products that merely sell service contracts as agents of service contract companies and do not themselves extend written warranties can disclaim implied warranties on the products they sell. Requirements Any warrantor warranting a consumer product to a consumer by means of a written warranty must disclose, fully and conspicuously, in simple and readily understood language, the terms and conditions of the warranty to the extent required by rules of the Federal Trade Commission. The FTC has enacted regulations governing the disclosure of written consumer product warranty terms and conditions on consumer products actually costing the consumer more than $15. The Rules can be found at 16 C.F.R. Part 701. Under the terms of the Act, ambiguous statements in a warranty are construed against the drafter of the warranty. Likewise, service contracts must fully, clearly, and conspicuously disclose their terms and conditions in simple and readily understood language. Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.[7] This is commonly referred to as the "tie-in sales" provisions[8] and is frequently mentioned in the context of third-party computer parts, such as memory and hard drives. Full Warranty Requirements Under a full warranty, in the case of a defect, malfunction, or failure to conform with the written warranty, the warrantor: can remedy the consumer product within a reasonable time and without charge; may not impose any limitation on the duration of any implied warranty on the product; may not exclude or limit consequential damages for a breach of any written or implied warranty on the product, unless the exclusion or limitation conspicuously appears on the face of the warranty; and if the product, or a component part, contains a defect or malfunction, must permit the consumer to elect either a refund or replacement without charge, after a reasonable number of repair attempts. In addition, the warrantor may not impose any duty, other than notification, upon any consumer, as a condition of securing the repair of any consumer product that malfunctions, is defective, or does not conform to the written warranty. However, the warrantor may require consumers to return a defective item to its place of purchase for repair. Limitations The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does not invalidate or restrict any right or remedy of any consumer under any other federal law, nor does the act supersede the Federal Trade Commission Act as it pertains to antitrust actions. The act does not invalidate or restrict any right or remedy of any consumer under state law. The act is not the dominant regulation of consumer product warranties, and while it prescribes certain disclosures and restricts certain limitations on warranties, it leaves other warranty law untouched.[9] Although the act covers warranties on repair or replacement parts in consumer products, warranties on services for repairs are not covered. The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance. Remedies under the Act The act is meant to provide consumers with access to reasonable and effective remedies where there is a breach of warranty on a consumer product. The act provides for informal dispute-settlement procedures and for actions brought by the government and by private parties................................
It is more about people having different levels of honesty. Sometimes at the same shop, different service writers/techs have different views of cheating the customer. It is not just dealers and not all dealers. There are Franchise, chains, and independent shops all who do and don't do the same things.
The dishonest employee makes mire money for the stealership and gets promoted. The honest employee gets fired. The business owner can just point to "productivity", and deny any knowledge of fraud.
The entire dealership is a scam not just the service department. Salesman is a scammer, parts guy is a scammer, service guy is a scammer, "sales manager is a scammer.
I buy Toyota parts by going to the online portal of a local dealership, then go to the counter and pick them up. The prices are a lot lower. As an example, last time I bought any WS fluid it was $11/qt if you ask for it at the counter. If you order it online and pick it up at the same counter, it's $8/qt.
I have to disagree with you on one statement and that is you don't have to do a service until there is a problem! As a former manager for a repair facility that did not work on commission, when there is a problem it is usually too late! The service you mentioned are preventive and really dependent on a few things like how the car is used and the weather conditions. All of those services you mention do have a place, the owners manual is a guide. The manual for my wife's car says to change the oil every 10,000 miles. I would never wait that long to change oil, especially that I live in a state that is always hot and most of her trips are short. Transmission fluid should be changed every 80,000 earlier if you haul things. Most shops would not change transmission fluid after 100,000 miles. That is a point you may want to state. Coolant flushes every 100,000 unless you live in a hot state then I would say every 75,000. Engine cleaners for carbon I would only recommend for GDI engines or a tune up at 100,000 miles, Your advice is usually spot on and I think the world of you but you may want to go into more detail.
facts. bmw got mad at me for bringing my car in for an oil change at 4500 miles. (i had 4 free oil changes when i bought the car) saying "its too early". my response was "ive owned over a dozen bmws, and half of them had over 200k on them. i know what im doing, im avoiding bmw failure because accountants are counting on my car to fail from their service intervals"
THIS, as a technician i can tell you those items are recommended as PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE to PREVENT a problem from occuring. Sure dont do the transmission or CVT flushes like we tell you, but when that car comes back for a transmission and you ask for some type of help, dont expect it. The owners manual even states that you should consult the service facility since not every environment is the same for every vehicle, and that the service intervals they recommend are just recommendations. This goes for every fluid. It's general wear. Not every dealer, Advisor, Tech, or even sales person is out to get you. Find a dealership you can build a relationship with and i guarantee they will take care of you.
My daughter lives in a different state. She had a 2012 Chevy Cruze. The windshield wiper’s stopped working, so I looked it up on TH-cam. There’s a plastic mechanism that breaks over time but it’s very easily accessible under the hood and the TH-camr replaced it in like 15 minutes . The part was like $65 but since she had no one to install it for her there was a Chevy dealer down the block . Long story short she took it there , lifted the hood , explained the problem, showed them the broken part and when she got the bill there was STILL a $120 charge added on top of parts and labor because they said they HAD to do a “diagnostic” on the car and verify the problem and charge her for that as well ! Ridiculous!!
I worked at a dealership for 8 years. I was a warranty manager. Technicians hate warranty work because the manufacturer has it pared to the bare minimum and sometimes the manufacturer gers it wrong and the tech gets ripped off. The most important thing thing you need to do for a new the car i read the warranty info in the manual AND pay attention to the services required to maintain your warranty. I worked at a Chrysler dealership and they had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. At that time the service department recommended all sorts of services and would act like they were needed to maintain the warranty when they weren't. Another important item is to save your service records,. If you do the service yourself, then save the receipt and write the mileage and date of the service. Transmission services are a good thing. I can't tell you how many times we found filings on a magnet or in the fluid. My dealer never did a flush with pressure. If they replaced a bad transmission they had pressurized can of fluid they used to flush any debris out of the lines and in that case it is highly recommended. I almost forgot. ALL shops have a minimum diag time. Often times this is pure profit because a lot of the time a good tech will have a good idea what the issue but need to test and verify the problem. Doing anything else is just throwing parts at the problem and that gets expensive quick. For instance maybe the scan tool and the symptoms point to a oxygen sensor. You might replace the oxygen sensor only to find out there is a broken, shorted, corroded or broken wire in the wiring. It could also be a issue with a connector too.
There's no way I go ten thousand miles on an oil change. Or forever transmission fluid. The manufacturers only want your car to last until the warranty is up. Perform your own maintenance or find an honest mechanic.
As a long time Master Technician, I firmly believe that the owner's manual is the "Bible" of scheduled maintenance. I have always hated service management forcing "wallet flushes". They are mostly worthless. Just follow the manufacturers required services. Resurfacing rotors just causes the rotors to warp again.
@@g-mang-man7924 unless you are driving an F-150... ONce I finally upgraded my rotors and pads, never had warped rotors again or better braking AND drives smoother now 195k miles, than when new.
@@markmills344 don't know if someone answered you but, lifetime means life time for the dealership or warranty not lifetime for the car. It should be checked and changed when needed
Sometimes it's a scam just walking through the doorway, AND they won't even stop at scamming their own employees. A few years ago my son was working at a GMC dealership when his truck (he bought from them) had a check engine light come on. I attached my computer to the OBD port and the code indicated a problem something more sever than I could fix myself. So...he takes it in to the mechanic where he works, and they came up with a laundry list of repairs totaling over $8K (his cost w/discount would have been $5K) for major engine work (one of which was replacing a piston). My son who was around 19 at the time, a little naive unlike his old man because I've been around the block a few times. I told him this doesn't make sense. I credit my brother for figuring it out the problem. It turned out to be the MASS air filter sensor which cost $75. Problem solved. The moral of the story is.... Be careful out there people. It's all about $$$.
I have a problem on mt 2014 Mustang. When it gets hot - over 120F in the sun (Where I live, the summers are a literal oven), my car misfires from time to time. The code I pulled said that all 4 of my o2 sensors had failed - at the exact same moment. Resetting the system would result in it working fine, and when the weather cooled down ( like all this winter - zero codes or issues ). So it obviously was some module or relay or something that connects them all but I can't figure out which one. So I took it to the dealer to have them diagnose it and honest truth here... All they did was scan the OBD port, say that my O2 sensors were bad and charge me for it. 0 diagnosis, and I even showed them a printout of a computer scan I did with my own tool and how it showed a simultaneous problem on all 4 at the exact same time moment. Utterly useless fools. The problem was eventually tracked down to the relays in the fuse box getting too hot/heat soaked. $5 fix with some insulation around the box.
One problem with dealerships today is that you don't know if your car is being given to the D-C grade tech, who doesn't know what they are doing and will just throw a bunch of parts at the problem or the A grade tech who can diagnose what is actually wrong. The other issue is that diagnosing takes time that is hard for any mechanical shop, not just dealerships, to explain and get properly paid for.
If a shop told me I needed expensive work done on a vehicle I just purchased I would say I will take it back to where I purchased it. Or if it's an older vehicle I've owned for a while I would say.I will just take it to the scrap yard and buy another vehicle.
A few corrections here that you mentioned. - Transmission fluid does need to be drained and filled (not flushed) and should not be done at 60k (30k for CVTs) to extend the life of the transmission. If it was never done it should still be done and if any problems do show up it means it was a matter of time before they would have shown up. - Brake fluid does also need to be changed at 36k/3 years as it is hydroscopic - Coolant should be done per the manufactures interval. It is definitely not 100k miles, most are around 50-60k.
About 20 years ago when I was green, I took my truck to the stealership's service department for, if I remember right, a 5,000 mile "scheduled service". They tried to charge me over $600. I asked them to show me what was included in this "service" and they showed me a pamphlet of about 20 or 30 useless "checks" like checking for "electric wires", "heat shield" and some other non-sense. Even as green as I was about stealerships, I knew that the pamphlet was full of "fluff". I took their pamphlet and told them I'd think about it. They gave me the same warning they give to everybody about "If you don't do these "services", you will void the warranty". I took the pamphlet to a savvy mechanic friend of mine and he laughed at all the non-sense of the "scheduled service".
“Forever fluids” is a manufacturers’ trick to ensure something in the power train blows ahead of its time. 10K oil changes is another manufacturer-recommended self-destruct mechanism.
I'm so tired of hearing the BS that changing transmission fluid will cause problems. In my experience it is 100% false, and I've cured many transmissions by changing the neglected fluid. As for following the manual and only servicing what it says to, not if you want your car to last a long time.
As a vehicle ages a coolant flush becomes more important to keep the coolant system working efficiently and the heat working good. It also helps to keep the heater core from rotting through and needing replacement.😊
I work at a dealership. Not in sales, not in service…I take care of facilities. On that side, I get to talk with everyone. I can honestly say, we don’t do any of the scams. Book time is book time, warranty pay is at a lower rate than customer pay. Have not figured that one out yet. There are some rare and technical repairs that is true time, where the technician needs to clock in and out for the job. On sales, we never charge over MSRP, and never pressure anyone or upsell to a vehicle they don’t need or want. Used cars is fair market value…. That’s kinda high right now… as it drops, even dealerships will be upside down in vehicles. Check to see how long it’s been on the lot…. Make short story long, check reviews…build relationships. Not everyone is bad
Every time we go in for an oil change it is something that should be done. I follow the owners manual. Nowadays their recommended service is over $ 200 for each one. No thanks unless it is needed
I'll never forgot the time a Honda dealership quoted me 3k to replace the front struts, left and went to a local reputable shop and got them done for 1K. Never went back to the dealer.
Ok, so I've never had to have shocks or struts replaced on any Honda I've owned. Even a Ridgeline with 230k miles. Odyssey with 175K miles. Accord with 180k miles. So did they even need to be replaced?
jeebus 3k just for struts is crazy. That should be 2 hours of mechanical time on each side and I don't have the part cost or mechanical cost per but lets just say 200 each for the part and 140 per hour which is 960 and then a front end alignment for 60-80. So let's say 1040 before taxes.
When I got out of the military I went to work at a Chevy dealer and earned my ASE while employed there. Everything you said about flat rate is true. If a mechanic had a car that the scope of the job was going to be outside the flat rate manual, such as an electrical gremlin, then we quoted an hourly rate. The way the tech makes money is by beating flat rate and having no come backs.
Calling a dealer replacing a filter as scam because of the markup ,is the same as calling a coffee shop a scam as you can make a cup at home for 15% of the cost
Exactly. Book time is book time. I highly doubt his shop is doing work and charging however many hours it took, even if it took less than book time. No shop runs like that. There’s a system in place and all shops use it. All because you can change a filter in 2 minutes and the dealer charges you 3/10 to do it isn’t the dealers fault…that’s the manufacturer.
The ironic part about posting that BG fuel service as an example is that General Motors now recommends that exact service to be done every 15,000 miles and has a corporate partnership with BG because that stuff works. Didnt this guy come from a Chevy store? The reason why they did is because they were having massive issues with fuel injectors and carbon buildup, ultimately impacting customer retention. Now it’s recommended by General Motors and here this guy is saying they’re unnecessary. I think I’m going to stick with the GM engineers on this one lol
Being a salesperson means that the incentive is to string the customer along with a sequence of ineffective repairs rather than actually fixing the vehicle. For example, if plastic valve covers are warped, sell a valve cover gasket job, then sell a second repair for the plastic valve covers.
One note, rear pads don’t last as long on a lot of newer vehicles. Many of the adaptive cruise systems primarily use the rear brakes to keep consistent speed or slow down when coming up on a slower vehicle. Starting to see them come in after 20k miles needing new pads.
…I found this shysterism over 25 years ago when the owner/principal of the dealership(s) told the service department managers that they need to pull their strings b/c business is “kinda slow” at the showrooms.
Chevy dude in my opinion I think this is the best video you ever made where you yourself as a customer advocate for the regular people and giving an unbiased information. Way it go keep it up!
Last time i when to a dealership was for the Takata airbag recall for my Honda Accord. They tried to up sale me on power steering fluid change. I told them i just changed the fluid only a couple months prior. The service advisor back peddled and blamed the tec for the recommended service.
Same at Toyota dealer. Told me leaking and would not be able to steer. Never happened. Never did it. Had the car 17 yrs. They wanted $$$ to do it, even way back then.
I was in the shop getting warranty work done. I asked them to take a look at the intercooler hose since it always looked wet and tightening the hose clamp didn't stop it. Mind you this hose is sitting right on top when you open the hood, attached with a hose clamp and a hose clip, You need a screwdriver to uninstall/install. They quoted me $400. I commended the service manager for being able to say that with a straight face, told them I'd take care of it. Got my OEM hose on line for a 3rd less $$, swapped it out in 5 min. Now the dealership shop I only use for warranty work, and it is a union shop. As a proud union woman I always try and support my union brothers/sisters, but even I have my limits. I enjoy your channel, keep up the good work!
Don’t forget INTIMIDATION. Once, my Toyota dealer advertised a sale price of $300 for a timing belt replacement. During the repair I was phoned and told that there is a pulley that puts tension on the timing belt that appears is going to fail soon and should be replaced. I felt if I said “No” they’d whack it with a hammer and it would soon fail. Since they had removed the pulley, I expected to be charged for the part and no additional labor. Wrong. I was charged full labor as if I had brought my car in only for the pulley replacement. I said I wanted the old pulley and saw no sign of excess wear or impending failure.
Had that happen to me but it was Firestone. My local mechanic had to replace them, and the pads after having them installed at Firestone. Firestone did not honor their brake warranty. Don't have brakes done at Firestone.
The biggest scamers at a dealership is the sales people. They will lie to your face while having a smile on theirs. Maintaining your car properly will keep you out of tennis shoe mode. I can tell from listing to you that you have no idea about how hard working on a car can be because you make your money with your mouth.
I have a 2003 Ford F150 with the 4.2l V6 and 4R70W and I have 320,000 original miles on my engine and transmission. I haven’t seen any of the new trucks make it anywhere near close to that mileage without having major engine or transmission work.
Took my 2018 Ford F250 in for one of its first scheduled maintenance @ 15K after purchase,. Service advisor called me to let me know one of my rear shocks was leaking and needed replacement. He then advised I would need to change BOTH shocks in order to "equalize wear" ... yea, right... total BS. I knew there was nothing wrong with my rear shocks, I had just returned from a long road trip and felt no change in road handling, even when towing a 5th wheel. Here it is 2024 and 65K miles later and I am still on the original (leaking) rear shocks. What is even more interesting is that all other schedule maintenance performed at the same dealership, there was never another mention of my rear shock leaking, guess it "self corrected".
😂 my dentist said I had a filling that needed to be replaced and I opted to wait. Next scheduled cleaning she said everything looked fine. Everyone trying to make a buck.
You are correct on published times. Keep in mind there are labor times published that are not correct and under cut the actual time it takes. It doesn't happen often and they are few and far between, but a competent and seasoned technician will know this from experience. It comes back to finding a trustworthy shop. 30th year as a master technician.
Dealers dont do fixes, they only replace. Dont take your car to a dealer other then for the free oil changes they give you and refuse every other work. Refusing work WILL NOT void your warranty. Thats illegal. Let them tell you what is "needed" and go to another shop if you're worried. Never dealerships to fix anything.
Interesting video.... I've got two comments: Labor times have been completely wrong. Specially with very large jobs, and jobs that require special tools, that you don't want to buy. If you live in a rust belt, there is no way you brakes/rotors will last as long as you stated.
A Ford dealer in St. Louis where I bought a 2004 Explorer charges astronomical prices for service. $8500 for a new motor. Which is what I paid for the truck. I found a reliable shop that specializes in new crate motors. Five grand for a new motor that should last two hundred thousand miles with no problem. Same thing for transmission overhaul. Dealer wanted four grand. I found another local transmission shop that did the job for fifteen hundred dollars. At this point I have apx fifteen grand invested in the vehicle which should last another ten years. The vehicle now runs and drives like new. Or, I could go back to the dealer and finance a new, $70,000 explorer. No brainer.
I have a Ford Mustang. They need work on their timing chain and water pump about every 100K miles or so, same as many other vehicles. So I had this done at a dealer. I went to the other dealership in the franchise (same computer system and owner, short ways away) to get an oil change and they recommended that I do the standard maintenance of replacing the water pump. Literally in their computer. I pointed it out to them ( they had a printout of what was "needed" on my car ) that I had it done and they managed to see it. You might think it was an honest oversight. While I was waiting, they had technicians "consulting" with others to do repairs and a lot of it seemed highly suspicious. Not a single person there was being recommended less than about 1500-2000 in repairs. A dozen people all being told their fairly new cars all needed repairs, many of which I knew were not critical, even if they were present (some things you simply use until they wear out, like struts - you don't need to replace them at 30K )
I usually change the cabin filter by myself. One time, right after changing it, my car was at the dealer for a minor recall and they suggested I have my "filthy" cabin filter changed for $79. They said it looks like it "hasn't been changed in years" and I was "making a big mistake by not doing it" I told them I did it a week ago and you just made a mistake with a failed scam & lost customer. This is exactly why people loathe dealers with a passion.
I've been getting notices for the roof rail airbag recall for my 2015 Silverado. I know it's an important safety item, but I'm really hesitant to let a stealership anywhere near my truck. I've done everything maintenance wise myself.
I only take my cars to the dealer for recalls. The only time an experienced shop should charge more than the book time, is when they are removing plastic panels from a 1970's or 1980 car. i'e. not very often
I disagree, new usa or Japan car needs a coolant drain and fill every 40-50 K , a dealer doesn't have to do it, a radiator shop will at 1/2 the price. also cvt transmission, drain and fill every 40 K or 2 years, conventional transmissions every 50 k drain and fill, and if you are under warranty its important to show maintenance dealers are thieves but regular oil and fluid changes at local mechanics are a good investment.
I agree to NOT flush the transmission if it's got a lot of miles on it. But you SHOULD be doing a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. Especially if you have a CVT transmission.
Lots of great info! While I agree that a trans 'flush' can ruin a transmission, but according to many reputable mechanics (including Scotty Kilmer and others) that there is no such thing a lifetime transmission fluid. It needs to be just drained & filled back with new (not flushed). I'm also told that if you never drain & fill, after 150k miles, then don't do a 1st drain & fill, just live with it.
Thank you Chevy Dude! I literally just came back from the dealership where the guy said “oil leak” “you wouldn’t want to start a fire on the highway 😮. Like super scare tatic there is no leakage anywhere. Thanks for the info!! I subscribed ❤
I took my 22 Colorado in for it's free oil change at 5000 miles. I had done my own at 500 and 1k miles. The service writer said, "Wow, that engine is going to last a long time." And I then said, "Yeah, a lot longer than with the 10k oci's you guys recommend." He almost sounded disappointed I was taking maintenance seriously ;-)
This is why I like being in the Ford ecosystem. For the past three new vehicles that I’ve bought, I buy the prepaid 5 year prepaid maintenance plan and everything but the tires and glass is covered. I just show up to my appointment, hand them the keys and they do as needed and often times things that aren’t in the manual. I also buy a warranty to suit how long I’ll likely keep it (5yrs) and I’ve never had issues with Ford covering something. -happy and returning customer-
You better remember to do your DSG transmission oil change (every 40K miles) (VW, AUDI) or you will be changing the transmission at some point - down the road.
Mike what I find shocking and pretty much scary the most is your service advisor, your a car guy that's very knowledgeable in the inner workings of a vehicle but when your car knowledge exceeds the service advisor or manager that's when you have to question yourself do I want to get my vehicle repair here.
Great informative upload . I was at my Jeep dealership for an oil change. I have a 2019 V6 Grand Cherokee which I baby , never trailed, or off road with only 40K miles . They said I needed a rear and front differential fluid change for 422.00 I almost did it but then decided to not do it . From what I read afterwards needs to be done with using car for off road or using my jeep to trail . So hopefully I made the right decision
Great video. My 2017 Ford F-150 3.5L has 120k miles. The owners manual called for a coolant flush. Ford in Bristol Tennessee done the job. The manufacturer also called for 4x4 service and new plugs and coil packs. This cost a total of $1,300. Got my truck back and two days later my truck over heats and I stop. I call the dealership and they tow my truck. The coolant flush pressure broke my water pump! They told me it would cost me another $1,200. I said "No, you broke it you need to fix it". After a long back and forth they agreed to put a new water pump in. Now idk who to use for future maintenance.
If you get what you paid, that is an OK deal, at least. The real problem is when you don't get what you paid for. They skip several items from the list. In my recent visit, the tire rotation and multi point inspection were not performed. These are things that I can visually check. I wonder what else they skip.
Thank you very much for this honest video. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way what dealer services do. I made the mistake of buying an extended warranty with free oil changes. The changes were never really free because there were a host of other services that they pressured me to buy whenever I went for an oil change. Most of them were not supported by the car manual. For example, this was a regular automatic transmission, and very early on with low mileage, they did a flush on my transmission. I learned after the fact that flushes are dangerous. In fact, the manual said never to do one on the car. I'm sure at that point my transmission fluid was fine. As time went on, I received evidence that they didn't even perform some of the services they charged me for. With my new car, I am trying to stay away from the dealer. But they don't make it easy. Now they make cars without dip sticks, so you can't check the transmission unless you get the car on a lift and open the plug. I plan on changing my own engine filter and cabin filter. Now there are videos on TH-cam showing where they are located and how to do it.
I’ve been tried to get scammed by Toyota dealership in the past I took my Toyota tundra to get a 4 new tires they had a sale of buy 3 and get the 4th for a dollar. Then at the dealership I get a phone call from the service advisor that I needed new sensors for all tires which was over $700 and new front shock absorbers which was gonna cost me $1300 for both and transmission flush and coolant flush basically in total my cost was gonna be over $6,000 for everything no lie. I just told the service advisor foo I just came for 4 tires that’s it which was $800 for the tires that’s it but thank you for the advice 😂😂😂.
I remember going to a dealership and they had done a 30 point car inspection on this certified used car. I drove it. We were talking in the car and I clicked on the AC....wah...wah...wah. Didn't work. He played dumb. I was very direct...how does a 30 point inspection or any inspection not include the AC. I passed.
Easter Sunday, my son in law and daughter drove an hour to my house with his 04 Trailblazer my wife gifted him 2 years ago. They got here at noon and went home at 4pm. $270 spent, replaced both front wheel hubs, removed the running boards and straightened the tail pipe. Price quoted to him, $900 for the wheel hubs and $100 labor to remove the running boards. My neighbors think that I'm nuts, the only thing I have not done in the driveway is to pull an engine.
We don’t charge double labor for instance to remove an upper plenum to replace spark plugs only to find a leaking sensor that needs replacing that also requires the upper plenum removal to access it.
I was told by the service dept that my 2019 Genesis G70 (only 32220 miles) needs an alignment, throttle body cleaning, and fluid flush. My alignment does because my car steers to the right but I'm not sure about the other 2 services. I will take a look at my manual and see what is recommended
The number of dealers that commonly just say it needs a long block or a crate transmission is staggering. It boils down to liability. When they just fix a engine that shop is the warranty. When its a entire engine, then the rebuilder if the engine carries the warranty. Not the repair shop in my experience. 0.01c
i was a new car dealer ship technician. you left out check out time. what i saw was sales were the biggest crooks at a dealership. they out did service by a long ways.
Thee local garage I use will change the filer for a non inflated cost of filter. I had a dealer try to do a cabin alr filter for $300. It was lift hood, remove cover, replace and done. $20 if I went high end filter. Then there was a cabin air filter on car that did not have one.
My fave was while test driving a car at a dealership that had a supposed 50 point inspection....the car's transmission failed right before we pulled back in. Rolled it in and it was done..wouldn't move after that.... He still asked if I wanted it. Never... was my answer.
Three months ago I bought a 3 year old 21k mile certified preowned from honda, fast foward two months later, I brought it back to 1.6L of oil short. Reason given: our technician made an error adding the wrong amount!
Our Honda dealership is always recommending replacing the brake fluid on my 2020 Passport. This service isn't mentioned in the owners manual so I refuse the service.
In 2005 the local Chevy stealership quoted me $1,600 for a clutch replacement on my C5 Z06. I bought a lift for $1,800 and did 3 clutches on that track car myself. Have had that lift for 19 years and no car has ever seen a dealer for anything since.
With the labor time on older cars in sone cases bumping the time is normal for things like exhaust, suspension or any other time you have to deal with old rusty parts. Or old parts that are more delacate have to be removed to get to the parts needing replacement
Here’s the inverse: some manufacturers recommend less frequent oil changes for what I consider nefarious reasons. Audi, for one, recommends changes at 10,000 mile intervals. That guarantees you’ll be paying for some expensive engine work before 100K. It will save you money in the long-term to get the oil changed at 5,000 miles. If you want to save some bucks, take it to the dealer for the 10K service, but go to an independent for the 5K changes. Oil is cheap compared to a shot engine.
A retired Nissan engineer who used to work on their Z cars takes it a step further. For high-performance engines, he suggests not only full oil & filter changes at 6,000 miles, but also a dump-and-fill (no filter change) at 3,000 miles. If you can afford a luxury car or a high-performance car like a Corvette or a Lambo, you can afford the oil.
If I wasn’t a mechanic myself and had to pay a dealer to do everything I would be broke and wouldn’t to be able to afford the hobbies I have. Get a service manual and familiarize yourself with your vehicle. Our household has four vehicles as both our kids are driving and it would be so expensive to not be able to do any work myself !
I have a wheel bearing noise on the driver's side of my car when I take a left. I went to the dealership yesterday and for two front wheel bearings the quote was $1010, $749 for labor... The guy told me it takes one to two hours to change two wheel bearings. I told him I need to think about it. My car is a 2013 Honda Civic. There might be some time theft. I have been watching videos to educate myself.
My husband and i bought a 2023 Rav and a 2024 Nissan Frontier both of the service departments keep contscting us about when we will be bringing our vehicles in for oil changes (Toyota is the worst) even though we have told them we have not put enough miles on the vehicle according to you to change the oil yet It is making us leery of even taking it to get the oil changed. The Rav4 was taken in at 5,000 miles to have the tires rotated and once it was pulled into the garage it took them 90 min to rotate the tires SERIOUSLY! this is crazy. My husband has already changed the oil himself on the Rav 4 at 5,000 miles because they only recommend every 10,000 miles he does not go that long before changing the oil.
Do not buy cheap batteries unless you are going to sell the vehicle tomorrow! Buy either Original Equipment batteries or Interstate batteries. Interstate makes batteries for automotive manufacturers.
You're being irresponsible with parts of this video. 1. Telling people not to change transmission fluid? The manufacturers most definitely have transmission fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, and coolant services in the maintenance table. You are misquoting techs as well when it comes to transmission fluid, we state that if you didn't follow the manufacturers' recommended intervals and are way over, we recommend against it because it can cause problems. Not you shouldn't do it ever. 2. You say turning rotors doesn't save the customer money? It saves the customer on average 200.00. Go into a service department that turns rotors and get a quote for turned and a quote for replaced. I bet turned is cheaper by a few hundred bucks less. 3. The labor guide is a guide, most of the time, it's what should be followed. However, the guide is based on an average of a certain number of techs time at doing the job with hand tools while the car is brand new. It does not take into account for rust or corrosion, and therefore, there will be times you will add time for the condition of the vehicle. 4. When you realize your dream of owning a Chevy dealership, you are going to realize how expensive that service department is to operate and why things like filters cost what they do. It can be 150 to 200k of revenue a month needed before you are in the black, more if it's a particularly large shop. I've got 22 years in the auto service industry. I would never put out a video on the scams of car salesman because I don't have 24 years of experience on that side of the building. You really should have consulted someone who actually is in service to prevent putting bad information along with the good. Now we're going to have people pointing to bad parts of your video as proof they are being scammed when they are not.
I been blessed my man in the cage I went to school with him so I got a fair price on the part . And I don’t trust anyone with my car but old man he will tell you you need this & only this . As far as the service advisor goes we have a mutual respect and difference of opinions on what is needed and what is an upsell.
Number one scam is to take your car in for service and a dealer will swap a broken part from another car to yours. If you are out of warranty, and either you are reporting the issue or not, they will swap a used part and charge you full boat. They will put your broken part on a car under warranty and that owner will have to come back for a repair. Else, they will keep paying that part forward and moving it from one car to the next, bilking each customer. This is one of the reasons people leave the dealership and say that their car was working fine before they showed up. This is why, when my cars are out of warranty, I do not take them to the dealership. When you go to a dealership, the chance that another 'donor' car is there is extremely high. If you go to a local repair shop, 'donor' cars are not as frequent.
The transmission flush shouldn't be done on newer cars. However, fluid exchanges can help many cars last longer, especially on cvts. For instance, it is commonly known Nissan CVT needs changing 30k to make the transmission last even though the owners manual has a much linger interval.
Theres your problem. Waiting for that transmission to break when few hundred dollars could of help prevent thousands of dollars . Rotors, just buy new ones at autozone cheaper then resurface
Brake rotors do warp. That's when you need to have them "turned" machined on a lathe to get rid of shaking when you apply the brakes. I would like to know where you are buying quality rotors for $50.00???
I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee sport 4 cyl. Quoted at a Jeep dealership $432.00 to change out 4 spark plugs because its a 2 hr job. I went home, watched TH-cam and did it myself. Started at 7:45am and was finished and cleaning up the tools 25 mins later. Only cost me $34 for the 4 spark plugs
The service center had quoted me for about $295 for 4 spark plugs for my KIA.
I got OEM plugs for like, $50. Changing them only took me about 30 minutes to change them.
I dread to think what the dealer quotes for a hemi Ram that has 16 plugs (2 spark plugs per cylinder x 8). I looked under the hood of my 2500 and the back couple coil packs are buried pretty far back under the cowl. Does not look to be a fun job!
Oh well they say the plugs last 100K miles and that’s a long way off for me before I have to decide if I’m up for that challenge!
@@bradschroeder809totally doable at home, get a few old pillows or foam pieces and pay on top of the engine. Uncomfortable, yes. Definitely encourages you to work faster and smarter...
You're paying for the convenience of someone else to do it. I hope you gapped them properly without ruining the electrode and didn't over tighten everything
@@bradschroeder809I’ve changed the plugs on 4 x hemi engines (2007 Magnum R/T AWD, 2005 Magnum R/T, 2004 Ram 1500 and 2003 Ram 2500). The rear plugs are in a tight spot but just take your time and get a great flashlight back there. They aren’t that bad. You got this!
I took my 2007 Hyundai Sonata to the dealership for an oil change. Since then I found a mechanic near my house. The dealership told me that I needed $2,500 worth of repairs. I laughed and said no thanks. When I later took the car to a local mechanic and asked him to look the car over. When I picked it up I asked him about the items that the dealership said that I needed 6 months earlier. I didn’t need any of them. I drove the car another 6 years and never had any of the items done. I worked in the automotive industry for 45 years and saw plenty.
If you worked in the automotive industry for 45 years, why the heck would you buy a Hyundai then?
It was by FAR the most trouble free, enjoyable to own vehicle that I’ve ever had.
For many people who do not keep a vehicle long term, your advice is okay. There are fluids you do want to change (forever or not) as they do get contaminated or degrade. For people that keep their cars, fluid changes are important. Better than buying a transmission or power steering unit (thousands of dollars). I look at the fluids that come out. Occasionally it provides strong evidence that it was 100% to my advantage. Want your car to last 150, 000 to 300,000 miles? Change those fluids!
This is why I drive manual ;) If you look at most older books, they recommend changing the fluid on automatics ( not flushing it ) every 30K or so. My manual? Replacing the gear oil won't hurt it at all, when it needs to be done. Dump, clean the magnet off, add more. Simple as that. :)
When you "drain" the auto trans attached to my 2GR-FE, about 2.5 quarts come out. This is without removing the pan, which retains some fluid, but there's a whole lot more in the converter that won't come out. Because it's such a small volume of oil, I do this change yearly. The oil that comes out looks and smells exactly like the new WS fluid that I put in, and I want to keep it that way.
I have a mercedes with over 300k on it. Never touched the Trans fluid and it shifts fine. Someone it is driving condition.
I've had flushes done, on my terms, on all of my vehicles since the late 1990's. A radio show, Goss's Garage, pointed out that BG will cover damage to your transmission up to 250,000 miles, as long as you follow their recommended flush times. Transmission flushes need to be done within the first 36,000 miles then within 30,000 miles after. My Sierra has nearly 240,000 miles, our Chevy Malibus have had over 100,000 miles with no issues. My Sierra gets regular flushes. I haven't had issues with anything. I am also very involved with my vehicles. I've caught a dealership trying to scan me and they're dead to me. The other dealership I use now knows me and is good to me.
That being said, I wouldn't just trust a dealership because they're a dealership,I am lucky to have found a good one.
I think this guy has had experiences.woty bad dealerships.
@@christoperwarunek9949 Not as "on it" as you are. But try and pay attention. Fortunately had good results and few problems :)
Don't do flushes but there are fluids you definitely need to change, fluids are not forever and if you want your car to last over 100k miles you should. If you change transmission fluid every 60k miles you should be fine, if its over 100k dont do it. Coolant, also requires change cause that thing gets acidict with time and can destroy seals.
Notice I say change, not flush, 2 different things.
Yeah I agree with most of what chevy dude is saying but not so sure not changing trans fluid is a wise idea unless someone has no intention of owning it outside the 5year 60K powertrain warranty
Yeah I flush mine at 90k and it cost me a whole car! I had to replace it with another car! I love my new car but shishhh. the headaches I went through for several days
Drain/refill the transmission fluid every 30K-miles/3-years, whichever comes first if you plan to keep your vehicle long-term.
glad someone brought this up I about questioned what I was watching when he said that. I took my dad's 220k mile Lexus to get a transmission drain and fill with a quart of Lucas no slip additive and this was about a couple years ago. It was a gamble, maybe, because I have no idea when it was done last. Car's at almost 250k and counting, and I know when I'll be doing it again.
at my work, cvts get drain & fill. rec rwd trans every 60k. if it has 100k and no history then it's good. i've also declined sevices when not needed. less $$ in my pocket but doing the right thing by customer
I worked as a student tech at a ford dealership years ago. I found that there’s usually one or two technicians that really know what they’re doing. The rest kind of fly by the seat of their pants. I literally had a guy tell me to take something off someone’s car “to see what it does!”
😮
Definitely a TH-cam mechanic. "Valve cover is easy" yes if you are working on a '76 Nova.
Also easy on my wife's 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl. The valve covers for my 2016 RX350 are buried beneath a beauty cover, the intake manifold, and the wiper assembly. Ugh!
Or a '03 2.3 Saab 9-5. Very easy
🤣
Never listen to manufacturer about service. Go by the manufacturer of the parts. For example my truck has the ZF 8 speed automatic transmission. Mopar says lifetime fluid. ZF says change it at 80k. Who do you think I listened to
Exactly... to a manufacturer, "lifetime" is just until your warranty runs out. They would love nothing more than for you to need major maintenance the day after the warranty expires.
Cars can last a long time these days, I don't want 25 year old trans fluid, at least do a drain and fill to get some new stuff in there before it gets too old.
I wouldn't even wait till 80k. I'd change it at 40
I stopped going to a dealership entirely when the Service Department hard sold a laundry list of fluid exchanges and cleaners to my wife. I had asked her to take in our '21 Charger for its first oil change at 3500 miles. They had her convinced that she was going to invalidate the warranty for not performing $2500 worth of "service."
They wanted her to approve a $2500 service on a vehicle with only 3500 miles on it? Man I would run far away from that place too!
@@PumaPete I would have gone in screaming in front of the entire customer base that was there to let them know what kind of scams they pull!
Not all dealers are like this. I treat my client's money like me own. Always honest and will actually tell people when it's not smart to invest in their current car. Do I lose that sale? Yes but I gained the trust and a client for life.
Holy s..t
@@FrankRizzo557 The main charge is labor, which is typically now $200-$250 an hour. Because of "inflation". Despite the mechanics still making $25 -$30 an hour.
I’m fortunate, my hubby has been an auto mechanic for 36 years at the same shop, whenever my car breaks down or has a problem, he takes to work and fixes it, usually it’s cheap… he tells me I’m spoiled, when he tells me what it would cost if I took it in to a shop, I’m blown away.😂
Your husband loves you. Thanks for loving and respecting him back 😊
Disagree with the trans fluid change. You shouldn't flush it, but you should drain and fill every 30k miles or so. The 100K miles in the manual is convenietly right as the warranty runs out. There isn't a fluid around that can still look good 100k miles down the road.
Exactly. 30k can be a bit soon unless you are trailer towing with a pick up. If you snowplow, do it yearly.
+1
Ive never done that service in any of my vehicles but most recently I rebuilt the transmission on my 2015 Malibu w/267k+ miles and the transmission shop told me to never go without servicing the transmission
Even tho I asked them to rebuild and replace all transmission fluid lines/filter/ and transmission cooler
They told me they were able to save the cooler by flushing out all the metal shavings that were inside it.
It did take a few days more but they said they were able to get it clean and suggested I do a 30k mile maintenance flush obviously I do drive my vehicles a lot so 30k for me might be twice a year service but its better than rebuilding a transmission because most vehicles now have their transmission fluid filter deep inside the transmission which makes it hard to service or very expensive
The cheaper route is definitely doing a full flush once or twice a year
@@Roberto-gp3yx Well I am assuming 257k+ miles on the highway. This will be about 30k to 40k miles in city. I drive my GM cars (like 8+ from 1996) in the city. Most of the transmissions fails form 110k to 140k. Unfortunately, I have learn how to service transmissions one year ago. Now, I ma changing filter every 30K miles or 3 years and refill 40-60% of the fluid every year within using Lubegard. All cars I bought 10+ years old within 30k to 40k miles. If, I have to go to the mechanic (except tire balancing and alignment), then the car is going to junkyard. Alternator, starter, intake, breaks, suspension and more …. are not issues for me. Rebuilding transmission is the end of the car. My current oldest Buick LeSabre is from 1997 has 110K. Last work was heater core + valve cover seals. It is still going. 3.8L GM engines are good (except plastic coolant system parts and intake gaskets). Transmissions are very weak part of old GM cars. Within supercharges transmissions are relay bad for this strong engines, even the car is fun to drive
@@andrzejmical5416
Yup there are all highway miles… the transmission was the only major mechanical issue I ever had on that car … I did learn not to go by what the dealerships say with the oil change intervals bc it messed up the oil control valve / both intake & rocker arm solenoids/ and the vacuum pump by following the 10k synthetic oil life… I switched to doing 5k oil change intervals and never had issues with the car ever again
Unfortunately the car got wrecked but it had a great life and bc all the mechanical components where all original numbers matching and exterior was in great condition insurance gave me a more than fair payout
Long story short maintenance goes a long way on a vehicle
finding a good mechanic is hard
You are correct.I was a tech for 49 years and have worked with my share of really bad ones and some good ones.If you go to a shop that you know has a good mechanic request that you only want him to work on your car.Most will go along with your request.
You are correct. This is a reason why I have become one for my cars. Long time ago I have used books. Now, I used internet.
That's because there are not that many.
The easiest way to invalidate the warranty on your vehicle is to ignore the manufacturers maintenance schedule. If you do nothing else to your vehicle, get the service done that is required by the manufacturer. If there's a problem with your vehicle because you ignored the scheduled maintenance, they aren't going to cover the repair bill.
You don’t have to go to a dealer to change fluids and maintain your car. Find a good local mechanic. Either by word of mouth or check yelp.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). Enacted in 1975, the federal statute governs warranties on consumer products. The law does not require any product to have a warranty (it may be sold "as is"), but if it does have a warranty, the warranty must comply with this law. The law was created to fix problems as a result of manufacturers using disclaimers on warranties in an unfair or misleading manner.
Purpose
According to the report from the House of Representatives which accompanied the law (House Report No. 93-1197, 93d Cong 2d Sess.), the Magnuson-Moss act was enacted by Congress in response to merchants' widespread misuse of express warranties and disclaimers. The legislative history indicates that the purpose of the act is to make warranties on consumer products more readily understood and enforceable and to provide the Federal Trade Commission with means to better protect consumers.[1]
The act was sponsored by Senator Warren G. Magnuson of Washington and U.S. Representative John E. Moss of California, both Democrats, as well as Senator Frank Moss of Utah, who co-sponsored it with Magnuson.
The statute is remedial and is intended to protect consumers from deceptive warranty practices. Consumer products are not required to have warranties, but if one is given, it must comply with the Magnuson-Moss Act.
Definitions used
The Magnuson-Moss Act contains many definitions:
A "consumer" is a buyer of consumer goods for personal use. A buyer of consumer products for resale is not a consumer.[2]
A "supplier" is any person engaged in the business of making a consumer product directly or indirectly available to consumers.[3]
A "warrantor" is any supplier or other person who gives or offers a written warranty or who has some obligation under an implied warranty.[4]
A "consumer product" is generally any tangible personal property for sale and that is normally used for personal, family, or household purposes. It is important to note that the determination whether a good is a consumer product requires a factual finding, on a case-by-case basis. Najran Co. for General Contracting and Trading v. Fleetwood Enterprises, Inc., 659 F. Supp. 1081 (S.D. Ga. 1986).
A "written warranty" (also called an express warranty) is any written promise made in connection with the sale of a consumer product by a supplier to a consumer that relates to the material and/or workmanship and that affirms that the product is defect-free or will meet a certain standard of performance over a specified time.
An "implied warranty" is defined in state law. The Magnuson-Moss Act simply provides limitations on disclaimers and provides a remedy for their violation.
Designations:
A "full warranty" is one that meets the federal minimum standards for a warranty. Such warranties must be "conspicuously designated" as full warranties. If each of the following five statements is true about a warranty's terms and conditions, it is a "full" warranty:
There is no limit on the duration of implied warranties.
Warranty service is provided to anyone who owns the product during the warranty period; that is, the coverage is not limited to first purchasers.[5]
Warranty service is provided free of charge, including such costs as returning the product or removing and reinstalling the product when necessary.
There is provided, at the consumer's choice, either a replacement or a full refund if, after a reasonable number of tries, the warrantor is unable to repair the product.
It is not required of consumers to perform any duty as a precondition for receiving service, except notifying that service is needed, unless it can be demonstrated that the duty is reasonable.
A "limited warranty" is one that does not meet the federal minimums. Such warranties must be "conspicuously designated" as limited warranties.
A "multiple warranty" is part full and part limited.
A "service contract" is different from a warranty because service contracts do not affirm the quality or workmanship of a consumer product. A service contract is a written instrument in which a supplier agrees to perform, over a fixed period or for a specified duration, services relating to the maintenance or repair, or both, of a consumer product. Agreements that meet the statutory definition of service contracts, but are sold and regulated under state law as contracts of insurance, do not come under the Act's provisions.
Disclaimer or Limitation of Implied Warranties when a service contract is sold:
Sellers of consumer products who make service contracts on their products are prohibited under the act from disclaiming or limiting implied warranties.[6] Sellers who extend written warranties on consumer products cannot disclaim implied warranties, regardless of whether they make service contracts on their products. However, sellers of consumer products that merely sell service contracts as agents of service contract companies and do not themselves extend written warranties can disclaim implied warranties on the products they sell.
Requirements
Any warrantor warranting a consumer product to a consumer by means of a written warranty must disclose, fully and conspicuously, in simple and readily understood language, the terms and conditions of the warranty to the extent required by rules of the Federal Trade Commission. The FTC has enacted regulations governing the disclosure of written consumer product warranty terms and conditions on consumer products actually costing the consumer more than $15. The Rules can be found at 16 C.F.R. Part 701.
Under the terms of the Act, ambiguous statements in a warranty are construed against the drafter of the warranty.
Likewise, service contracts must fully, clearly, and conspicuously disclose their terms and conditions in simple and readily understood language.
Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.[7] This is commonly referred to as the "tie-in sales" provisions[8] and is frequently mentioned in the context of third-party computer parts, such as memory and hard drives.
Full Warranty Requirements
Under a full warranty, in the case of a defect, malfunction, or failure to conform with the written warranty, the warrantor:
can remedy the consumer product within a reasonable time and without charge;
may not impose any limitation on the duration of any implied warranty on the product;
may not exclude or limit consequential damages for a breach of any written or implied warranty on the product, unless the exclusion or limitation conspicuously appears on the face of the warranty; and
if the product, or a component part, contains a defect or malfunction, must permit the consumer to elect either a refund or replacement without charge, after a reasonable number of repair attempts.
In addition, the warrantor may not impose any duty, other than notification, upon any consumer, as a condition of securing the repair of any consumer product that malfunctions, is defective, or does not conform to the written warranty. However, the warrantor may require consumers to return a defective item to its place of purchase for repair.
Limitations
The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does not invalidate or restrict any right or remedy of any consumer under any other federal law, nor does the act supersede the Federal Trade Commission Act as it pertains to antitrust actions.
The act does not invalidate or restrict any right or remedy of any consumer under state law. The act is not the dominant regulation of consumer product warranties, and while it prescribes certain disclosures and restricts certain limitations on warranties, it leaves other warranty law untouched.[9]
Although the act covers warranties on repair or replacement parts in consumer products, warranties on services for repairs are not covered.
The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance.
Remedies under the Act
The act is meant to provide consumers with access to reasonable and effective remedies where there is a breach of warranty on a consumer product. The act provides for informal dispute-settlement procedures and for actions brought by the government and by private parties................................
It is more about people having different levels of honesty. Sometimes at the same shop, different service writers/techs have different views of cheating the customer.
It is not just dealers and not all dealers. There are Franchise, chains, and independent shops all who do and don't do the same things.
its also the leadership. when i worked at toyota, we had a salesman running the service writers vs a technician.
The dishonest employee makes mire money for the stealership and gets promoted. The honest employee gets fired. The business owner can just point to "productivity", and deny any knowledge of fraud.
Hey chevy dude, im almost 100% sure you're supposed to do a drain and fill if your car is under 100k miles. Never do a full flush
Depends on the car
@aaronjohnson9072 even a transmission that's sealed needs to be changed if you plan on driving your car longer than usual
@@ANTHIT I was referring to the intervals rather than a set mileage
Why not a flush?
The entire dealership is a scam not just the service department. Salesman is a scammer, parts guy is a scammer, service guy is a scammer, "sales manager is a scammer.
You forgot the biggest scammer of them all Finance
I buy Toyota parts by going to the online portal of a local dealership, then go to the counter and pick them up. The prices are a lot lower. As an example, last time I bought any WS fluid it was $11/qt if you ask for it at the counter. If you order it online and pick it up at the same counter, it's $8/qt.
Let's not forget about the owner..
@@jamesshenay3426 the dealership owner? I agree.
So as a dealer technician I fix your vehicle for whatever you brought it in for. Is that a scam?
I have to disagree with you on one statement and that is you don't have to do a service until there is a problem! As a former manager for a repair facility that did not work on commission, when there is a problem it is usually too late! The service you mentioned are preventive and really dependent on a few things like how the car is used and the weather conditions. All of those services you mention do have a place, the owners manual is a guide. The manual for my wife's car says to change the oil every 10,000 miles. I would never wait that long to change oil, especially that I live in a state that is always hot and most of her trips are short. Transmission fluid should be changed every 80,000 earlier if you haul things. Most shops would not change transmission fluid after 100,000 miles. That is a point you may want to state. Coolant flushes every 100,000 unless you live in a hot state then I would say every 75,000. Engine cleaners for carbon I would only recommend for GDI engines or a tune up at 100,000 miles, Your advice is usually spot on and I think the world of you but you may want to go into more detail.
facts. bmw got mad at me for bringing my car in for an oil change at 4500 miles. (i had 4 free oil changes when i bought the car) saying "its too early". my response was "ive owned over a dozen bmws, and half of them had over 200k on them. i know what im doing, im avoiding bmw failure because accountants are counting on my car to fail from their service intervals"
THIS, as a technician i can tell you those items are recommended as PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE to PREVENT a problem from occuring. Sure dont do the transmission or CVT flushes like we tell you, but when that car comes back for a transmission and you ask for some type of help, dont expect it. The owners manual even states that you should consult the service facility since not every environment is the same for every vehicle, and that the service intervals they recommend are just recommendations. This goes for every fluid. It's general wear. Not every dealer, Advisor, Tech, or even sales person is out to get you. Find a dealership you can build a relationship with and i guarantee they will take care of you.
Don't bring your car in until you have a problem??? Ridiculous
I'm looking to buy a used 2021 Kia Sportage with a GDI engine, 30K miles, what kind of "carbon cleaner" should I be looking at, an additive?
@@ofcbob6391 you should be looking to buy something else, something better......
My daughter lives in a different state. She had a 2012 Chevy Cruze. The windshield wiper’s stopped working, so I looked it up on TH-cam. There’s a plastic mechanism that breaks over time but it’s very easily accessible under the hood and the TH-camr replaced it in like 15 minutes . The part was like $65 but since she had no one to install it for her there was a Chevy dealer down the block . Long story short she took it there , lifted the hood , explained the problem, showed them the broken part and when she got the bill there was STILL a $120 charge added on top of parts and labor because they said they HAD to do a “diagnostic” on the car and verify the problem and charge her for that as well ! Ridiculous!!
I worked at a dealership for 8 years. I was a warranty manager. Technicians hate warranty work because the manufacturer has it pared to the bare minimum and sometimes the manufacturer gers it wrong and the tech gets ripped off.
The most important thing thing you need to do for a new the car i read the warranty info in the manual AND pay attention to the services required to maintain your warranty. I worked at a Chrysler dealership and they had a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. At that time the service department recommended all sorts of services and would act like they were needed to maintain the warranty when they weren't.
Another important item is to save your service records,. If you do the service yourself, then save the receipt and write the mileage and date of the service.
Transmission services are a good thing. I can't tell you how many times we found filings on a magnet or in the fluid. My dealer never did a flush with pressure. If they replaced a bad transmission they had pressurized can of fluid they used to flush any debris out of the lines and in that case it is highly recommended.
I almost forgot. ALL shops have a minimum diag time. Often times this is pure profit because a lot of the time a good tech will have a good idea what the issue but need to test and verify the problem. Doing anything else is just throwing parts at the problem and that gets expensive quick. For instance maybe the scan tool and the symptoms point to a oxygen sensor. You might replace the oxygen sensor only to find out there is a broken, shorted, corroded or broken wire in the wiring. It could also be a issue with a connector too.
Shops have overhead and mechanics to pay,if everyone did what you did, they’d go out of business.
There's no way I go ten thousand miles on an oil change. Or forever transmission fluid. The manufacturers only want your car to last until the warranty is up.
Perform your own maintenance or find an honest mechanic.
Been doing 10k oil changes for years using Amsoil. 660K on my Tundra, no issues.
Mobil guarantees 10K for many of their flavors of Mobil 1.
As a long time Master Technician, I firmly believe that the owner's manual is the "Bible" of scheduled maintenance. I have always hated service management forcing "wallet flushes". They are mostly worthless. Just follow the manufacturers required services.
Resurfacing rotors just causes the rotors to warp again.
@islandhopper100 Warped rotors are 100% the driver. Gentle driving and braking, will result in a person who never has a warped rotor issue.
What is your opinion about "lifetime" transmission fluid, which the vehicle manufacturers claim never needs to be changed?
@@g-mang-man7924 unless you are driving an F-150... ONce I finally upgraded my rotors and pads, never had warped rotors again or better braking AND drives smoother now 195k miles, than when new.
@@markmills344 don't know if someone answered you but, lifetime means life time for the dealership or warranty not lifetime for the car. It should be checked and changed when needed
Sometimes it's a scam just walking through the doorway, AND they won't even stop at scamming their own employees. A few years ago my son was working at a GMC dealership when his truck (he bought from them) had a check engine light come on. I attached my computer to the OBD port and the code indicated a problem something more sever than I could fix myself. So...he takes it in to the mechanic where he works, and they came up with a laundry list of repairs totaling over $8K (his cost w/discount would have been $5K) for major engine work (one of which was replacing a piston). My son who was around 19 at the time, a little naive unlike his old man because I've been around the block a few times. I told him this doesn't make sense. I credit my brother for figuring it out the problem. It turned out to be the MASS air filter sensor which cost $75. Problem solved. The moral of the story is.... Be careful out there people. It's all about $$$.
I have a problem on mt 2014 Mustang. When it gets hot - over 120F in the sun (Where I live, the summers are a literal oven), my car misfires from time to time. The code I pulled said that all 4 of my o2 sensors had failed - at the exact same moment. Resetting the system would result in it working fine, and when the weather cooled down ( like all this winter - zero codes or issues ). So it obviously was some module or relay or something that connects them all but I can't figure out which one. So I took it to the dealer to have them diagnose it and honest truth here... All they did was scan the OBD port, say that my O2 sensors were bad and charge me for it. 0 diagnosis, and I even showed them a printout of a computer scan I did with my own tool and how it showed a simultaneous problem on all 4 at the exact same time moment.
Utterly useless fools. The problem was eventually tracked down to the relays in the fuse box getting too hot/heat soaked. $5 fix with some insulation around the box.
One problem with dealerships today is that you don't know if your car is being given to the D-C grade tech, who doesn't know what they are doing and will just throw a bunch of parts at the problem or the A grade tech who can diagnose what is actually wrong. The other issue is that diagnosing takes time that is hard for any mechanical shop, not just dealerships, to explain and get properly paid for.
If a shop told me I needed expensive work done on a vehicle I just purchased I would say I will take it back to where I purchased it. Or if it's an older vehicle I've owned for a while I would say.I will just take it to the scrap yard and buy another vehicle.
A few corrections here that you mentioned.
- Transmission fluid does need to be drained and filled (not flushed) and should not be done at 60k (30k for CVTs) to extend the life of the transmission. If it was never done it should still be done and if any problems do show up it means it was a matter of time before they would have shown up.
- Brake fluid does also need to be changed at 36k/3 years as it is hydroscopic
- Coolant should be done per the manufactures interval. It is definitely not 100k miles, most are around 50-60k.
Most dealerships don’t do a “flush” per say. They use a machine that replaces 100% of the fluid. No detergents used.
@@nutandboltguy3720100% yes. Fluid exchanger not flusher, especially if they have BG machines
Not for a dct
About 20 years ago when I was green, I took my truck to the stealership's service department for, if I remember right, a 5,000 mile "scheduled service". They tried to charge me over $600. I asked them to show me what was included in this "service" and they showed me a pamphlet of about 20 or 30 useless "checks" like checking for "electric wires", "heat shield" and some other non-sense. Even as green as I was about stealerships, I knew that the pamphlet was full of "fluff". I took their pamphlet and told them I'd think about it. They gave me the same warning they give to everybody about "If you don't do these "services", you will void the warranty". I took the pamphlet to a savvy mechanic friend of mine and he laughed at all the non-sense of the "scheduled service".
Don't advise flushes either. Saying that, you should change your transmission and coolant. There's no such thing as forever fluids 🤔
“Forever fluids” is a manufacturers’ trick to ensure something in the power train blows ahead of its time. 10K oil changes is another manufacturer-recommended self-destruct mechanism.
I'm so tired of hearing the BS that changing transmission fluid will cause problems. In my experience it is 100% false, and I've cured many transmissions by changing the neglected fluid. As for following the manual and only servicing what it says to, not if you want your car to last a long time.
A lot of the manual says dumb things to remember the dealer wants to service you the least amount possible.. like the long interval oil changes dumb..
As a vehicle ages a coolant flush becomes more important to keep the coolant system working efficiently and the heat working good. It also helps to keep the heater core from rotting through and needing replacement.😊
I work at a dealership. Not in sales, not in service…I take care of facilities. On that side, I get to talk with everyone. I can honestly say, we don’t do any of the scams. Book time is book time, warranty pay is at a lower rate than customer pay. Have not figured that one out yet. There are some rare and technical repairs that is true time, where the technician needs to clock in and out for the job.
On sales, we never charge over MSRP, and never pressure anyone or upsell to a vehicle they don’t need or want.
Used cars is fair market value…. That’s kinda high right now… as it drops, even dealerships will be upside down in vehicles. Check to see how long it’s been on the lot….
Make short story long, check reviews…build relationships. Not everyone is bad
Every time we go in for an oil change it is something that should be done. I follow the owners manual. Nowadays their recommended service is over $ 200 for each one. No thanks unless it is needed
I'll never forgot the time a Honda dealership quoted me 3k to replace the front struts, left and went to a local reputable shop and got them done for 1K.
Never went back to the dealer.
Ok, so I've never had to have shocks or struts replaced on any Honda I've owned. Even a Ridgeline with 230k miles. Odyssey with 175K miles. Accord with 180k miles. So did they even need to be replaced?
jeebus 3k just for struts is crazy. That should be 2 hours of mechanical time on each side and I don't have the part cost or mechanical cost per but lets just say 200 each for the part and 140 per hour which is 960 and then a front end alignment for 60-80. So let's say 1040 before taxes.
Doing my 4 struts now with all oem subaru parts. $1,300 for parts
When I got out of the military I went to work at a Chevy dealer and earned my ASE while employed there. Everything you said about flat rate is true. If a mechanic had a car that the scope of the job was going to be outside the flat rate manual, such as an electrical gremlin, then we quoted an hourly rate. The way the tech makes money is by beating flat rate and having no come backs.
Calling a dealer replacing a filter as scam because of the markup ,is the same as calling a coffee shop a scam as you can make a cup at home for 15% of the cost
No, it is not the same.
it would only be the same if you made to cofee in the parking lot of the coffee shop
Exactly. Book time is book time.
I highly doubt his shop is doing work and charging however many hours it took, even if it took less than book time.
No shop runs like that. There’s a system in place and all shops use it. All because you can change a filter in 2 minutes and the dealer charges you 3/10 to do it isn’t the dealers fault…that’s the manufacturer.
So... he went from The Offspring to selling cars? Pretty fly for a white guy... 😂
Big dealer charge $1800 for brakes and rotors..
Small reputable shop charged $900 for same work…
The ironic part about posting that BG fuel service as an example is that General Motors now recommends that exact service to be done every 15,000 miles and has a corporate partnership with BG because that stuff works. Didnt this guy come from a Chevy store?
The reason why they did is because they were having massive issues with fuel injectors and carbon buildup, ultimately impacting customer retention. Now it’s recommended by General Motors and here this guy is saying they’re unnecessary.
I think I’m going to stick with the GM engineers on this one lol
The laughable part about this is that most of the f*ck-ups we see at dealerships come from small podunk shops like yours 😂
And I can’t take this guy seriously. A car salesman talking about service scamming people. I must have forgotten salesman don’t do that lol 😂
Never buy a vehicle at a Buy here Pay here lot like this dealer. A car salesman should never be the most honest person you know.
Being a salesperson means that the incentive is to string the customer along with a sequence of ineffective repairs rather than actually fixing the vehicle. For example, if plastic valve covers are warped, sell a valve cover gasket job, then sell a second repair for the plastic valve covers.
One note, rear pads don’t last as long on a lot of newer vehicles. Many of the adaptive cruise systems primarily use the rear brakes to keep consistent speed or slow down when coming up on a slower vehicle. Starting to see them come in after 20k miles needing new pads.
Stability control can be using the rear brakes.
Honda Accords love to chew through rear pads for many model years.
Back brakes may not last as long as you think. 2018 Terrain had zero pad left at 70k while the fronts looked like new!
…I found this shysterism over 25 years ago when the owner/principal of the dealership(s) told the service department managers that they need to pull their strings b/c business is “kinda slow” at the showrooms.
Chevy dude in my opinion I think this is the best video you ever made where you yourself as a customer advocate for the regular people and giving an unbiased information. Way it go keep it up!
Last time i when to a dealership was for the Takata airbag recall for my Honda Accord. They tried to up sale me on power steering fluid change. I told them i just changed the fluid only a couple months prior. The service advisor back peddled and blamed the tec for the recommended service.
Same at Toyota dealer. Told me leaking and would not be able to steer. Never happened. Never did it. Had the car 17 yrs. They wanted $$$ to do it, even way back then.
Transmission fluid changes are require for all GM trucks 😂 trust me, you’ll regret not doing it every 40k miles.
Yes, always get a 2nd opinion. Twice I avoided getting overcharged because the second mechanic did not do the unnecessary repairs.
I was in the shop getting warranty work done. I asked them to take a look at the intercooler hose since it always looked wet and tightening the hose clamp didn't stop it. Mind you this hose is sitting right on top when you open the hood, attached with a hose clamp and a hose clip, You need a screwdriver to uninstall/install. They quoted me $400. I commended the service manager for being able to say that with a straight face, told them I'd take care of it. Got my OEM hose on line for a 3rd less $$, swapped it out in 5 min. Now the dealership shop I only use for warranty work, and it is a union shop. As a proud union woman I always try and support my union brothers/sisters, but even I have my limits. I enjoy your channel, keep up the good work!
Don’t forget INTIMIDATION. Once, my Toyota dealer advertised a sale price of $300 for a timing belt replacement. During the repair I was phoned and told that there is a pulley that puts tension on the timing belt that appears is going to fail soon and should be replaced. I felt if I said “No” they’d whack it with a hammer and it would soon fail. Since they had removed the pulley, I expected to be charged for the part and no additional labor. Wrong. I was charged full labor as if I had brought my car in only for the pulley replacement. I said I wanted the old pulley and saw no sign of excess wear or impending failure.
Spent 20 years in a shop replacing warped rotors 5000 miles after dealers turned that started causing pulsation.
Had that happen to me but it was Firestone. My local mechanic had to replace them, and the pads after having them installed at Firestone. Firestone did not honor their brake warranty. Don't have brakes done at Firestone.
The biggest scamers at a dealership is the sales people. They will lie to your face while having a smile on theirs. Maintaining your car properly will keep you out of tennis shoe mode. I can tell from listing to you that you have no idea about how hard working on a car can be because you make your money with your mouth.
I have a 2003 Ford F150 with the 4.2l V6 and 4R70W and I have 320,000 original miles on my engine and transmission. I haven’t seen any of the new trucks make it anywhere near close to that mileage without having major engine or transmission work.
Took my 2018 Ford F250 in for one of its first scheduled maintenance @ 15K after purchase,. Service advisor called me to let me know one of my rear shocks was leaking and needed replacement. He then advised I would need to change BOTH shocks in order to "equalize wear" ... yea, right... total BS. I knew there was nothing wrong with my rear shocks, I had just returned from a long road trip and felt no change in road handling, even when towing a 5th wheel. Here it is 2024 and 65K miles later and I am still on the original (leaking) rear shocks. What is even more interesting is that all other schedule maintenance performed at the same dealership, there was never another mention of my rear shock leaking, guess it "self corrected".
that shoulda been covered by at least basic warranty
😂 my dentist said I had a filling that needed to be replaced and I opted to wait. Next scheduled cleaning she said everything looked fine. Everyone trying to make a buck.
The only time my vehicles see the dealership's service department is for warranty work. Even then, they try to sell you services that you don't need.
You are correct on published times. Keep in mind there are labor times published that are not correct and under cut the actual time it takes. It doesn't happen often and they are few and far between, but a competent and seasoned technician will know this from experience. It comes back to finding a trustworthy shop.
30th year as a master technician.
True that. Have seen all demand time less than warranty. It's only a guide
Dealers dont do fixes, they only replace.
Dont take your car to a dealer other then for the free oil changes they give you and refuse every other work.
Refusing work WILL NOT void your warranty. Thats illegal.
Let them tell you what is "needed" and go to another shop if you're worried.
Never dealerships to fix anything.
Interesting video.... I've got two comments: Labor times have been completely wrong. Specially with very large jobs, and jobs that require special tools, that you don't want to buy.
If you live in a rust belt, there is no way you brakes/rotors will last as long as you stated.
A Ford dealer in St. Louis where I bought a 2004 Explorer charges astronomical prices for service. $8500 for a new motor. Which is what I paid for the truck. I found a reliable shop that specializes in new crate motors. Five grand for a new motor that should last two hundred thousand miles with no problem. Same thing for transmission overhaul. Dealer wanted four grand. I found another local transmission shop that did the job for fifteen hundred dollars. At this point I have apx fifteen grand invested in the vehicle which should last another ten years. The vehicle now runs and drives like new. Or, I could go back to the dealer and finance a new, $70,000 explorer. No brainer.
Even the parts counter are scamming. They are charging over msrp for parts. Na, keep those parts. I’ll go elsewhere
I have a Ford Mustang. They need work on their timing chain and water pump about every 100K miles or so, same as many other vehicles. So I had this done at a dealer.
I went to the other dealership in the franchise (same computer system and owner, short ways away) to get an oil change and they recommended that I do the standard maintenance of replacing the water pump. Literally in their computer. I pointed it out to them ( they had a printout of what was "needed" on my car ) that I had it done and they managed to see it.
You might think it was an honest oversight.
While I was waiting, they had technicians "consulting" with others to do repairs and a lot of it seemed highly suspicious. Not a single person there was being recommended less than about 1500-2000 in repairs. A dozen people all being told their fairly new cars all needed repairs, many of which I knew were not critical, even if they were present (some things you simply use until they wear out, like struts - you don't need to replace them at 30K )
I usually change the cabin filter by myself. One time, right after changing it, my car was at the dealer for a minor recall and they suggested I have my "filthy" cabin filter changed for $79. They said it looks like it "hasn't been changed in years" and I was "making a big mistake by not doing it" I told them I did it a week ago and you just made a mistake with a failed scam & lost customer. This is exactly why people loathe dealers with a passion.
I've been getting notices for the roof rail airbag recall for my 2015 Silverado. I know it's an important safety item, but I'm really hesitant to let a stealership anywhere near my truck. I've done everything maintenance wise myself.
I only take my cars to the dealer for recalls. The only time an experienced shop should charge more than the book time, is when they are removing plastic panels from a 1970's or 1980 car. i'e. not very often
I disagree, new usa or Japan car needs a coolant drain and fill every 40-50 K , a dealer doesn't have to do it, a radiator shop will at 1/2 the price. also cvt transmission, drain and fill every 40 K or 2 years, conventional transmissions every 50 k drain and fill, and if you are under warranty its important to show maintenance dealers are thieves but regular oil and fluid changes at local mechanics are a good investment.
I agree to NOT flush the transmission if it's got a lot of miles on it. But you SHOULD be doing a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. Especially if you have a CVT transmission.
Lots of great info! While I agree that a trans 'flush' can ruin a transmission, but according to many reputable mechanics (including Scotty Kilmer and others) that there is no such thing a lifetime transmission fluid. It needs to be just drained & filled back with new (not flushed). I'm also told that if you never drain & fill, after 150k miles, then don't do a 1st drain & fill, just live with it.
If a pan drop/refill kills a transmission it is on borrowed time anyway.
Thank you Chevy Dude! I literally just came back from the dealership where the guy said “oil leak” “you wouldn’t want to start a fire on the highway 😮. Like super scare tatic there is no leakage anywhere. Thanks for the info!! I subscribed ❤
Glad I could help
I took my 22 Colorado in for it's free oil change at 5000 miles. I had done my own at 500 and 1k miles. The service writer said, "Wow, that engine is going to last a long time." And I then said, "Yeah, a lot longer than with the 10k oci's you guys recommend." He almost sounded disappointed I was taking maintenance seriously ;-)
This is why I like being in the Ford ecosystem. For the past three new vehicles that I’ve bought, I buy the prepaid 5 year prepaid maintenance plan and everything but the tires and glass is covered. I just show up to my appointment, hand them the keys and they do as needed and often times things that aren’t in the manual. I also buy a warranty to suit how long I’ll likely keep it (5yrs) and I’ve never had issues with Ford covering something. -happy and returning customer-
You better remember to do your DSG transmission oil change (every 40K miles) (VW, AUDI) or you will be changing the transmission at some point - down the road.
Mike what I find shocking and pretty much scary the most is your service advisor, your a car guy that's very knowledgeable in the inner workings of a vehicle but when your car knowledge exceeds the service advisor or manager that's when you have to question yourself do I want to get my vehicle repair here.
Brought my 22 Trail boss in for oil change, tire rotation, and alignment. $250
Great informative upload . I was at my Jeep dealership for an oil change. I have a 2019 V6 Grand Cherokee which I baby , never trailed, or off road with only 40K miles . They said I needed a rear and front differential fluid change for 422.00 I almost did it but then decided to not do it . From what I read afterwards needs to be done with using car for off road or using my jeep to trail . So hopefully I made the right decision
I was told in a few months that pad needs to be replaced. called got 3 different quotes to do the job. this dealership owns 3 stores.
Great video. My 2017 Ford F-150 3.5L has 120k miles. The owners manual called for a coolant flush. Ford in Bristol Tennessee done the job. The manufacturer also called for 4x4 service and new plugs and coil packs. This cost a total of $1,300. Got my truck back and two days later my truck over heats and I stop. I call the dealership and they tow my truck. The coolant flush pressure broke my water pump! They told me it would cost me another $1,200. I said "No, you broke it you need to fix it". After a long back and forth they agreed to put a new water pump in. Now idk who to use for future maintenance.
If you get what you paid, that is an OK deal, at least. The real problem is when you don't get what you paid for. They skip several items from the list.
In my recent visit, the tire rotation and multi point inspection were not performed. These are things that I can visually check. I wonder what else they skip.
Thank you very much for this honest video. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way what dealer services do. I made the mistake of buying an extended warranty with free oil changes. The changes were never really free because there were a host of other services that they pressured me to buy whenever I went for an oil change. Most of them were not supported by the car manual. For example, this was a regular automatic transmission, and very early on with low mileage, they did a flush on my transmission. I learned after the fact that flushes are dangerous. In fact, the manual said never to do one on the car. I'm sure at that point my transmission fluid was fine. As time went on, I received evidence that they didn't even perform some of the services they charged me for. With my new car, I am trying to stay away from the dealer. But they don't make it easy. Now they make cars without dip sticks, so you can't check the transmission unless you get the car on a lift and open the plug. I plan on changing my own engine filter and cabin filter. Now there are videos on TH-cam showing where they are located and how to do it.
I’ve been tried to get scammed by Toyota dealership in the past I took my Toyota tundra to get a 4 new tires they had a sale of buy 3 and get the 4th for a dollar. Then at the dealership I get a phone call from the service advisor that I needed new sensors for all tires which was over $700 and new front shock absorbers which was gonna cost me $1300 for both and transmission flush and coolant flush basically in total my cost was gonna be over $6,000 for everything no lie. I just told the service advisor foo I just came for 4 tires that’s it which was $800 for the tires that’s it but thank you for the advice 😂😂😂.
I remember going to a dealership and they had done a 30 point car inspection on this certified used car. I drove it. We were talking in the car and I clicked on the AC....wah...wah...wah. Didn't work. He played dumb. I was very direct...how does a 30 point inspection or any inspection not include the AC. I passed.
Easter Sunday, my son in law and daughter drove an hour to my house with his 04 Trailblazer my wife gifted him 2 years ago.
They got here at noon and went home at 4pm.
$270 spent, replaced both front wheel hubs, removed the running boards and straightened the tail pipe.
Price quoted to him, $900 for the wheel hubs and $100 labor to remove the running boards.
My neighbors think that I'm nuts, the only thing I have not done in the driveway is to pull an engine.
We don’t charge double labor for instance to remove an upper plenum to replace spark plugs only to find a leaking sensor that needs replacing that also requires the upper plenum removal to access it.
I was told by the service dept that my 2019 Genesis G70 (only 32220 miles) needs an alignment, throttle body cleaning, and fluid flush. My alignment does because my car steers to the right but I'm not sure about the other 2 services. I will take a look at my manual and see what is recommended
The number of dealers that commonly just say it needs a long block or a crate transmission is staggering.
It boils down to liability. When they just fix a engine that shop is the warranty. When its a entire engine, then the rebuilder if the engine carries the warranty. Not the repair shop in my experience.
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I so a pwr steering flush around 80 to 100k. Steers smoother and is sometimes necessary. Will function without it, but better and lasts longer with it
i was a new car dealer ship technician. you left out check out time. what i saw was sales were the biggest crooks at a dealership. they out did service by a long ways.
Thee local garage I use will change the filer for a non inflated cost of filter. I had a dealer try to do a cabin alr filter for $300. It was lift hood, remove cover, replace and done. $20 if I went high end filter. Then there was a cabin air filter on car that did not have one.
Cabin air filters are not likely under the hood. There is some labor involved on some cars, but most are 5-15 minute jobs.
A drain and fill of the transmission is probably the best bet....especially when it comes to CVT Transmissions. I do it every 40k miles.
My fave was while test driving a car at a dealership that had a supposed 50 point inspection....the car's transmission failed right before we pulled back in. Rolled it in and it was done..wouldn't move after that.... He still asked if I wanted it. Never... was my answer.
Three months ago I bought a 3 year old 21k mile certified preowned from honda, fast foward two months later, I brought it back to 1.6L of oil short. Reason given: our technician made an error adding the wrong amount!
Our Honda dealership is always recommending replacing the brake fluid on my 2020 Passport. This service isn't mentioned in the owners manual so I refuse the service.
Honda recommends replacing the brake fluid every three years. Moisture gets in the fluid is why.
@@johnharris7191 If you look at it when it's warm and it is not clear, has grime in it, or smells burnt, it indeed can be bad.
Same service advisor will say you need to replace the old air in your tires with new fresh nitrogen.
In 2005 the local Chevy stealership quoted me $1,600 for a clutch replacement on my C5 Z06. I bought a lift for $1,800 and did 3 clutches on that track car myself. Have had that lift for 19 years and no car has ever seen a dealer for anything since.
With the labor time on older cars in sone cases bumping the time is normal for things like exhaust, suspension or any other time you have to deal with old rusty parts. Or old parts that are more delacate have to be removed to get to the parts needing replacement
My local dealership lied about issues with my Silverado. They completely lied.
Here’s the inverse: some manufacturers recommend less frequent oil changes for what I consider nefarious reasons. Audi, for one, recommends changes at 10,000 mile intervals. That guarantees you’ll be paying for some expensive engine work before 100K. It will save you money in the long-term to get the oil changed at 5,000 miles. If you want to save some bucks, take it to the dealer for the 10K service, but go to an independent for the 5K changes. Oil is cheap compared to a shot engine.
A retired Nissan engineer who used to work on their Z cars takes it a step further. For high-performance engines, he suggests not only full oil & filter changes at 6,000 miles, but also a dump-and-fill (no filter change) at 3,000 miles. If you can afford a luxury car or a high-performance car like a Corvette or a Lambo, you can afford the oil.
If I wasn’t a mechanic myself and had to pay a dealer to do everything I would be broke and wouldn’t to be able to afford the hobbies I have. Get a service manual and familiarize yourself with your vehicle. Our household has four vehicles as both our kids are driving and it would be so expensive to not be able to do any work myself !
I have a wheel bearing noise on the driver's side of my car when I take a left. I went to the dealership yesterday and for two front wheel bearings the quote was $1010, $749 for labor... The guy told me it takes one to two hours to change two wheel bearings. I told him I need to think about it. My car is a 2013 Honda Civic. There might be some time theft. I have been watching videos to educate myself.
My husband and i bought a 2023 Rav and a 2024 Nissan Frontier both of the service departments keep contscting us about when we will be bringing our vehicles in for oil changes (Toyota is the worst) even though we have told them we have not put enough miles on the vehicle according to you to change the oil yet
It is making us leery of even taking it to get the oil changed. The Rav4 was taken in at 5,000 miles to have the tires rotated and once it was pulled into the garage it took them 90 min to rotate the tires SERIOUSLY! this is crazy.
My husband has already changed the oil himself on the Rav 4 at 5,000 miles because they only recommend every 10,000 miles he does not go that long before changing the oil.
Do not buy cheap batteries unless you are going to sell the vehicle tomorrow!
Buy either Original Equipment batteries or Interstate batteries.
Interstate makes batteries for automotive manufacturers.
You're being irresponsible with parts of this video.
1. Telling people not to change transmission fluid? The manufacturers most definitely have transmission fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, and coolant services in the maintenance table. You are misquoting techs as well when it comes to transmission fluid, we state that if you didn't follow the manufacturers' recommended intervals and are way over, we recommend against it because it can cause problems. Not you shouldn't do it ever.
2. You say turning rotors doesn't save the customer money? It saves the customer on average 200.00. Go into a service department that turns rotors and get a quote for turned and a quote for replaced. I bet turned is cheaper by a few hundred bucks less.
3. The labor guide is a guide, most of the time, it's what should be followed. However, the guide is based on an average of a certain number of techs time at doing the job with hand tools while the car is brand new. It does not take into account for rust or corrosion, and therefore, there will be times you will add time for the condition of the vehicle.
4. When you realize your dream of owning a Chevy dealership, you are going to realize how expensive that service department is to operate and why things like filters cost what they do. It can be 150 to 200k of revenue a month needed before you are in the black, more if it's a particularly large shop.
I've got 22 years in the auto service industry. I would never put out a video on the scams of car salesman because I don't have 24 years of experience on that side of the building. You really should have consulted someone who actually is in service to prevent putting bad information along with the good. Now we're going to have people pointing to bad parts of your video as proof they are being scammed when they are not.
Chevy Dude has access to how many mechanics, techs and engineers with how many years of experience? Hmm🤔
I been blessed my man in the cage I went to school with him so I got a fair price on the part . And I don’t trust anyone with my car but old man he will tell you you need this & only this . As far as the service advisor goes we have a mutual respect and difference of opinions on what is needed and what is an upsell.
Number one scam is to take your car in for service and a dealer will swap a broken part from another car to yours. If you are out of warranty, and either you are reporting the issue or not, they will swap a used part and charge you full boat. They will put your broken part on a car under warranty and that owner will have to come back for a repair. Else, they will keep paying that part forward and moving it from one car to the next, bilking each customer. This is one of the reasons people leave the dealership and say that their car was working fine before they showed up. This is why, when my cars are out of warranty, I do not take them to the dealership. When you go to a dealership, the chance that another 'donor' car is there is extremely high. If you go to a local repair shop, 'donor' cars are not as frequent.
The transmission flush shouldn't be done on newer cars. However, fluid exchanges can help many cars last longer, especially on cvts. For instance, it is commonly known Nissan CVT needs changing 30k to make the transmission last even though the owners manual has a much linger interval.
Theres your problem.
Waiting for that transmission to break when few hundred dollars could of help prevent thousands of dollars .
Rotors, just buy new ones at autozone cheaper then resurface
Brake rotors do warp. That's when you need to have them "turned" machined on a lathe to get rid of shaking when you apply the brakes. I would like to know where you are buying quality rotors for $50.00???