Very nice truck and a well done video walk around. My M37-B1 is a '63 and was passed from military to Forest Service to a small Rural Fire Dept. It had a rod knock when I bought it with 30,000 miles, but had always been stored inside a dry environment so everything looks as the day it was built. My neighbor and his local heavy equipment repair shop rebuilt the engine, the brakes, carb, etc. last winter and now the old gurl runs like a champ. I bought the truck in 1990 for $550.00 dollars and have a bit over$4500 more into it with new o.d. green canvas on the seats, new fluids, and mechanical rebuilds. It gives me great joy to lock it in four-low , pull the throttle out to hold at around 1200 rpms and virtually crawl up vertical ditch banks, never once spinning a wheel. Best wishes on yours ! And thanks for posting your video !!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! I'm looking forward to doing a lot more to mine as well and driving it more, I haven't tried the 4 wheel drive yet but plan on it soon, thanks again for watching! Cheers, Steve
@@frankdavidson9675 --- oh, I could not do that ! Love it tooooo much. Especially on a warm spring day, sun out, top open, and idling around in 'creeper gear'😎😎😎
I just picked up a 62. Was an everyday driver until 6 years ago when illness prevented owner from driving it. Sat ever since. Brakes go to the floor now and i haven't attempted to start it yet. Needs new batteries and looked over.
Vehicle is very clean for what it is.....the metal top prevented years of rain from rusting away the cab......nice feature is the original winch.....overall very nice vehicle.
Nice looking truck! Chrysler cars and trucks had right and left hand threads on wheel studs up to the late 60s. If you look close, the ends of the wheel studs are stamped L or R to tell you thread hand. Need to look at that if you have problems removing a wheel. If the wheel hubs have been off at some point, they might not have been put back on the correct side. So a right hand hub could end up on the left side and vise versa. Can make for some real head scratching! LoL
just a word of caution these trucks are about 70 yrs old they all need ( LOTS OF TENDER LOVING CARE ) so be ready to spend lots of money finding parts is not a problem but some are $$$$$
i converted my 53 m37 12 volts on some items and left 24 on some --- exam. 24 volt head light (bulb ) about $5o.00 same bulb at 12 volt about $8.00 i left starter 24 volt for starting added new 12v tail lights alternator is 28volts when running eng gauges were not a problem i add new fuse panel to fire wall all new wire every where left dist 24 volt for extra spark all you have center tap the 2 batt to pick up the 12 volts run this wire to 1 row of fuse panel also added idiot light on dash for low oil pressure
th big advantage of 24v over 12v is starting power and spark on dist most everthing dont matter gas sender is 70 yrs unless it replaced --- it was junkto start with go with 7 1/2 in reedswitch easy to in stall just 2 wires mts in same hole as old sender usa standerd is 33 ohms full 240 ohms empty all run both wires to dash dont use body ground ohms will be diff steel vrs copper ?
the down side of 12v is starter is 24 v so you are starting 1/2 power also this should be considered dist is 24 volt === 1/2 spark most everthing else ok on 12v you can change head light bulb to 12 v easy otherwise you are feeding 24v bulb with 12 volts my idea was 2 batterys use centertap for 12 v i use 28 voly alternator can the 24v gen. and voltage reg
What alternator and bracket is used to convert it over? I have a 1952 m37 the wiring is shot so wanted to change it over to 12 volt. Stupid question here, with it being 24 volt are the gauges headlights etc all 24 volt too? New to the 24 volt stuff. Thanks looks great
Hi JG, my truck was converted before I bought it, it has a GM (delco remy) alternator with built in regulator and appears to be on homemade brackets, a 12v starter, which I just had to replace, (you can check out that video as well if you haven't seen it yet!) 12volt headlights and tail lights, none of my gauges work except for oil pressure and speedo, which are both mechanical, so that will be something I work on in the future. Hope that help! Cheers! Steve
you have a wire problem like mine 1953 i found best thing to do disconnect battery and rip out all the old wire get several small spools 14 ga color coded wire then rewire each circuit write it down to tbl shoot later these old trucks are a fire hazzard if left with old wire
Hey Mike, Yes, I was happy that it had the hard top! I like the soft tops as well, but my personal preference is the hard top. Thanks for checking out the video! Cheers, Steve
I was fortunate that it was already converted to 12v when I bought it so I didn't have that hassle, I know most guys like to leave it 24v but I prefer the 12v myself. The wiring is a mess on mine, a mix of original and also non-original that was not done very well, so I will be cleaning that up soon and hopefully on video. Thanks so much for watching! It's much appreciated! Cheers! Steve
simply disc 1 battery move ground lead to battery starter will be slower lights will be dimmer I switched generator and the reg. out add alternator----1 wire hook up easy
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Cool. I had a 67 m-715...this is like it's little brother.
Very nice truck and a well done video walk around. My M37-B1 is a '63 and was passed from military to Forest Service to a small Rural Fire Dept. It had a rod knock when I bought it with 30,000 miles, but had always been stored inside a dry environment so everything looks as the day it was built. My neighbor and his local heavy equipment repair shop rebuilt the engine, the brakes, carb, etc. last winter and now the old gurl runs like a champ. I bought the truck in 1990 for $550.00 dollars and have a bit over$4500 more into it with new o.d. green canvas on the seats, new fluids, and mechanical rebuilds. It gives me great joy to lock it in four-low , pull the throttle out to hold at around 1200 rpms and virtually crawl up vertical ditch banks, never once spinning a wheel. Best wishes on yours ! And thanks for posting your video !!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! I'm looking forward to doing a lot more to mine as well and driving it more, I haven't tried the 4 wheel drive yet but plan on it soon, thanks again for watching! Cheers, Steve
you can prob sell it and retire (LOL) high $$$$$$ now days big demand
@@frankdavidson9675 --- oh, I could not do that ! Love it tooooo much. Especially on a warm spring day, sun out, top open, and idling around in 'creeper gear'😎😎😎
Thks for the video mines a 53 putting body and bed on a 1996 chev 3500 4x4
That will definitely make it more driver friendly... Good luck with the project!
that sir is a beauty , i will be following you on this build , looks to be in great shape to start with
Thank you Perry, I appreciate it much!
I just picked up a 62. Was an everyday driver until 6 years ago when illness prevented owner from driving it. Sat ever since. Brakes go to the floor now and i haven't attempted to start it yet. Needs new batteries and looked over.
Good luck with it! They are definitely fun to drive around...although they're not very fast, they still turn heads!
It came with tons of parts. I watched all your videos on repair. Great stuff
about hose chains on the tail gate they came with a canvas cover but i used a bike tube ----about 20 inn with a hole half way down for drainage
Good idea with the tubes!
I just bought a M37 still in its Korean War colors and markings , it has a hard top and no rust . Looking forward to restoring and driving it
Nice Rick! I wish you luck with it! mine is a blast to drive and it sure gets a lot of looks around town. Cheers,Steve
Can’t wait to see the build
Vehicle is very clean for what it is.....the metal top prevented years of rain from rusting away the cab......nice feature is the original winch.....overall very nice vehicle.
I have a 1951 M37 that I have also started restoring.
Nice!
Nice looking truck! Chrysler cars and trucks had right and left hand threads on wheel studs up to the late 60s. If you look close, the ends of the wheel studs are stamped L or R to tell you thread hand. Need to look at that if you have problems removing a wheel. If the wheel hubs have been off at some point, they might not have been put back on the correct side. So a right hand hub could end up on the left side and vise versa. Can make for some real head scratching! LoL
Never though about the hubs being switched! Luckily mine were not, but definitely a good thing to watch for. Thanks!
that vent in front of windshield has been to rust out and leak into cab you can get new seal if needed
just a word of caution these trucks are about 70 yrs old they all need ( LOTS OF TENDER LOVING CARE ) so be ready to spend lots of money finding parts is not a problem but some are $$$$$
i converted my 53 m37 12 volts on some items and left 24 on some --- exam. 24 volt head light (bulb ) about $5o.00 same bulb at 12 volt about $8.00 i left starter 24 volt for starting added new 12v tail lights alternator is 28volts when running eng gauges were not a problem i add new fuse panel to fire wall all new wire every where left dist 24 volt for extra spark all you have center tap the 2 batt to pick up the 12 volts run this wire to 1 row of fuse panel also added idiot light on dash for low oil pressure
th big advantage of 24v over 12v is starting power and spark on dist most everthing dont matter gas sender is 70 yrs unless it replaced --- it was junkto start with go with 7 1/2 in reedswitch easy to in stall just 2 wires mts in same hole as old sender usa standerd is 33 ohms full 240 ohms empty all run both wires to dash dont use body ground ohms will be diff steel vrs copper ?
the down side of 12v is starter is 24 v so you are starting 1/2 power also this should be considered dist is 24 volt === 1/2 spark most everthing else ok on 12v you can change head light bulb to 12 v easy otherwise you are feeding 24v bulb with 12 volts my idea was 2 batterys use centertap for 12 v i use 28 voly alternator can the 24v gen. and voltage reg
me and budy had 1 in 70s used it for a skidder cutting fire wood chains on all four wheels wahat a wookhorse
Thanks for the comment! I'm looking forward to working this one too! It's going to be my new scrap hauler along with a parts getter! Cheers! Steve
What alternator and bracket is used to convert it over? I have a 1952 m37 the wiring is shot so wanted to change it over to 12 volt. Stupid question here, with it being 24 volt are the gauges headlights etc all 24 volt too? New to the 24 volt stuff. Thanks looks great
Hi JG, my truck was converted before I bought it, it has a GM (delco remy) alternator with built in regulator and appears to be on homemade brackets, a 12v starter, which I just had to replace, (you can check out that video as well if you haven't seen it yet!) 12volt headlights and tail lights, none of my gauges work except for oil pressure and speedo, which are both mechanical, so that will be something I work on in the future. Hope that help! Cheers! Steve
You can buy a 12 volt to 24 volt inverter to run your stock electrical gauges.
you have a wire problem like mine 1953 i found best thing to do disconnect battery and rip out all the old wire get several small spools 14 ga color coded wire then rewire each circuit write it down to tbl shoot later these old trucks are a fire hazzard if left with old wire
Thanks Frank, yes! tackling the wiring is on my list of things to do on the old girl!
i replaced my gen- and voltage reg. with 28 volt alternator left dist 24 volt for mor spark most everthing is 12 volt
Rare find to have a hard top on the M37 most had soft tops
Hey Mike, Yes, I was happy that it had the hard top! I like the soft tops as well, but my personal preference is the hard top.
Thanks for checking out the video!
Cheers, Steve
1 have a 53 it has hard top
I'm new subscriber. Curious if you made a video, changing it over from 24V to 12V?
I was fortunate that it was already converted to 12v when I bought it so I didn't have that hassle, I know most guys like to leave it 24v but I prefer the 12v myself. The wiring is a mess on mine, a mix of original and also non-original that was not done very well, so I will be cleaning that up soon and hopefully on video. Thanks so much for watching! It's much appreciated!
Cheers! Steve
simply disc 1 battery move ground lead to battery starter will be slower lights will be dimmer I switched generator and the reg. out add alternator----1 wire hook up easy
i re