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Wow thats awesome that cars that old are still there.

Been there! Ugh.

👍🏁🏁👍

Looks great and having the original milage is awesome

Where dud you order your 12v starter from?

I just picked up a 62. Was an everyday driver until 6 years ago when illness prevented owner from driving it. Sat ever since. Brakes go to the floor now and i haven't attempted to start it yet. Needs new batteries and looked over.

Would you have to buy the pump with the “auto shut off” or anyone would work?

Thks for the video mines a 53 putting body and bed on a 1996 chev 3500 4x4

Also you can adjust the slack out of box .

Ck the oil in the steering box .

Like just bought me a 52 m37

Fractured my spine? Yeah, I’ll just jump on the floor and crawl under my truck to bring you a video. 😂 You are hard core dude! Hope you’re doing well.

Wow....but man, that could go South quick!!! Lol

my paint shaker is my arms

Imagine if you put a flashlight on the other end

You’re leaking something sir

Maybe you found out already ,but the lever on the winch is your Free Wheel lever if it's not froze up. You shift it then pull cable out by hand. Shift it back to normal for winding in. Your doing a Great Job I have a couple M trucks and power wagon Tom

Nice, u got a sub

Thank you

is the owner MATT

That pussy Cat poppin on air was hilarious🤣😁🤣

Good save

Stays on. It is the vent line, which vents to the intake. To allow water crossings without water getting in Master cylinder

Nice Truck, I am working on a 66 wm300 power wagon

Put mine on hold

Western Pennsylvania where at ??I'm up in Akron Ohio

Hey, you’re staying busy and hopefully having some fun doing it.

Cool. I had a 67 m-715...this is like it's little brother.

I had to heat up the clevis pin to get it free. It was stuck to the pedal in the center. I pulled the whole pedal box after that because there was slop which appears to all be on the shaft itself. Easy enough to make a new one 3/4" round with a key on each end for the clutch bits. The clutch eye on the outboard end is also nearly worn through so that needs to be filled/drilled. I don't have the valve on top of my master. Did you ever figure out what that was about?

My jeep is the same way. Must be a brand thing

That shut off on the master cyl is for fording. Im going to use it for bleeding my brakes.

Great job. thats the I would have done it. I have had a m37 for years. It has turned into a hobby. I am a 74 yo military veteran. Drove one in vietnam. This is the first I should be able to drive it on the road. Also live in western Pa. Call my the beast. Will watch more.

No use one wire cloth covered #4 jic fittings

Im putting my m37 body on my 1996 3500 chev 4x4 / frame keep the 454 4l80 build it simler to HogernDodge 55 utube

Its good you wore a mask. Its best practice to wash the brakes down with water before disassembly and never use air to blow them off. Old vehicles and some new after market parts use asbestos.

Thanks

As far as the pinion angle on your Rod, could you “spot” things into place, pre-load the chassis (simulated body weight) and then check the pinion angle? I’ve never built anything from scratch, so I’m pretty sure I don’t know anything. Just curious. I used to have a Toyota 4x4 and changed pinion angle with angled shims when I lifted it with taller springs.

Keep doing , thanks. I have a 34 to

A grease sert would have been great somewhere on that hub after drum came off. I'm hoping my 72 M300 (RV) front brakes/hub are the same, they look similar. :) Great vid. Now having trouble finding brake booster 54-73143 from Cardone. Everyone is out of stock. argh

Godzilla going up for sale this summer? Oh no! Tell me this is just a bad dream.

Bet you wish you could spend more time in Florida! Wish I could spend some time in Florida, as it is currently 12°F here in Idaho.

On a more cheerful note, the five wire thingamabob is called the spider. It provides a common link for the gauges that need it. Replacements are available from most antique military vehicle dealers.

Sadly, no one was able to warn you that you should never open these old gauges. The glow in the dark numerals were painted with radioactive paint in those days. The paint contains radium. Inhaling the dust can lodge microscopic particles in your lungs which can lead to radiation poisoning. The plastic lenses provide a degree of protection from the actual radiation. By opening the gauges you now have an unprotected source of radiation pointing at you. You have to decide if the risks outweigh the $95 for a new gauge. The military replaced broken gauges and, since the '70s, treated the scrap ones as contaminated waste. To retain a record of the milage when a speedometer was replaced, the military puts a sticker on the dash the that states, "Add _ _ _ _ _ miles to total". Please don't open any other old gauges. Replace them or have them serviced by specialists with the tools and equipment needed to repair them safely. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium_dial

the "bleeder "...thats a fording vent....goes to your air cleaner assy

Doing great....hotrodders have been stepping the boxing plates back for years.... forgiving weldup with a 1/4 setback... but I like your idea too of nesting the lines. Don't beat yourself up....I got a Miller 225 mig and half my weld still look like shite!

Every time he says. What is this? I said " It's Military "...👍👍 well worth your time to rehab it yerself!

I just tried this on my 41 WC-6 but the axle is to short to engage the hub. Good thing I have free returns. :)