Since you mentioned being monetized, carefully with the music in the background. That'll get you copywrite strikes and eventually demonitized. Love the channel.
If your bearing covers at the rear are leaking can you just change the gasket, also would i need to drain the fluid first or can i replace the gasket without draining the trans
Gracias por compartir conocimientos, mi caja fuller (freihtliner) las altas se demoran en entrar y salir ; en la cola lleva un vástago chiquito con tres orines pequeños cual será la posición correcta?? FAVOR una idea
“ALL” “Mll” and DLL”have deep reduction low gearing I believe were as a “LL” is just two low gears I’m sorry for my vague response I’ve probably built a dll at some point in life but didn’t bother to pay attention to the difference 🤣
I am in technical college, and am new to these types of transmissions. Your videos provide an incredible amount of guidance. Thank you for publishing all the content. Why in this video is the assembly done directly in the auxiliary section, while in the Fuller 13-Speed video it was done on the bench and then installed in the auxiliary section? Thank you for any information you can provide. All the best. I am trying to reassemble the auxiliary section of an Eaton Roadranger RTX-14710B for class.
The 13 speed auxiliary section is assembled on the bench and installed onto the front section of the transmission because of the high and low range yoke bar and cylinder. Some older 13 speeds have a range cylinder and yoke bar that is similar to a 10 speed meaning you can stack it in order vertically. The rtlo18913 cannot be stacked that way because of how the range cylinder and yoke bar is made. In order to get the range cylinder out of the auxiliary section you have to remove the 2 bolts from the inside that connect the range fork to the yoke bar then you can remove the yoke bar and range cylinder from the auxiliary housing. It’s a silly design. But if you don’t remove them first you won’t be able to disassemble the auxiliary section. Hope this helps
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918 Thank you so much for the mentorship, sir. It is challenging to find guidance on the topic. You are truly helping out a lot of people. You are a legend. If you have time, maybe you could answer these questions - I completely understand if you are too busy: 1. Is the most common way to reassemble an auxiliary to stack it in the transmission, rather than on a table - outside of the outliers with the bolted range cylinder? 2. If one reassembles the auxiliary on a table, and then goes to install it, will the individual be able to align the countershaft timing marks with the front auxiliary drive gear? 3. When one personally picks timing marks 180 degrees apart on a gear, what is the purpose of this - making sure the countershaft gears are centered, acknowledging that gears wear a certain way over time, and helping with future disassembly & reassembly? 4. Do you have a video that goes through the air control system - range valve, range cylinder, and splitter cylinder? I apologize for taking up your time. Thank you for any mentorship you can offer. Anthony
@@AGDieselPower ive been rebuilding eatons for about 10 years, all auxillary sections i build on the bench and make sure everything's working right then mount it to front box of trans, its nice because you can do it horizontally instead of standing the trans up, also aux drive gear does not need to be timed with auxillary section
I have a question from the 8yo son of a woman I know at Church. He hears the 8ll has major problems with 4/7, does the 9all? My personal question is is a 10speed fro18210c durable? Or would a 13 be more robust? I'd imagine the 10 is since their is no 2nd air split. Between the 9, 10 and 13 which would be most suitable for 140000lbs 90% on road. Acceleration isn't an issue this is in Amish country back roads, not highway use.
Interesting I've never seen it done that way before I've built lots of these I have a special cup that I use that spaces up the auxiliary counter shaft up to the perfect height and I build the auxiliary on the bench and then I have special plates that have a hole drilled through them that bolt into the counter shafts and then I lift the whole auxiliary section on and drop it on at once because you don't have to time the bottom gears but hey it works the only thing I'm really confused about is obviously you're using all new bearings why the hell didn't you measure the spacing for the shim for the rear counter shaft it looks like you just put the original ones back in and that's not the proper way it's done I'm just curious every mechanic's got their own way of doing stuff but I've never seen someone just throw The shims back in there that was the only thing that threw me off
I love your videos. Keep it up. You have some of the most entertaining videos.
Since you mentioned being monetized, carefully with the music in the background. That'll get you copywrite strikes and eventually demonitized. Love the channel.
Thank you sir we will address the music
Does it matter what teeth you mark to time the gears or do you just have to put a mark anywhere on the aux drive gear 180 deg apart ?
The countershafts have marks stamped into them that you mark with a pen. The auxiliary drive gear just needs to be marked 180 degrees out
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918 ok thanks!
@jejunjohn yessir
If your bearing covers at the rear are leaking can you just change the gasket, also would i need to drain the fluid first or can i replace the gasket without draining the trans
Gracias por compartir conocimientos, mi caja fuller (freihtliner) las altas se demoran en entrar y salir ; en la cola lleva un vástago chiquito con tres orines pequeños cual será la posición correcta?? FAVOR una idea
What difference or meaning do the letters have because some of those transmissions say 08LL 08 dll 09mLL and the one you repaired ALL

“ALL” “Mll” and DLL”have deep reduction low gearing I believe were as a “LL” is just two low gears I’m sorry for my vague response I’ve probably built a dll at some point in life but didn’t bother to pay attention to the difference 🤣
I am in technical college, and am new to these types of transmissions. Your videos provide an incredible amount of guidance. Thank you for publishing all the content.
Why in this video is the assembly done directly in the auxiliary section, while in the Fuller 13-Speed video it was done on the bench and then installed in the auxiliary section?
Thank you for any information you can provide. All the best.
I am trying to reassemble the auxiliary section of an Eaton Roadranger RTX-14710B for class.
The 13 speed auxiliary section is assembled on the bench and installed onto the front section of the transmission because of the high and low range yoke bar and cylinder. Some older 13 speeds have a range cylinder and yoke bar that is similar to a 10 speed meaning you can stack it in order vertically. The rtlo18913 cannot be stacked that way because of how the range cylinder and yoke bar is made. In order to get the range cylinder out of the auxiliary section you have to remove the 2 bolts from the inside that connect the range fork to the yoke bar then you can remove the yoke bar and range cylinder from the auxiliary housing. It’s a silly design. But if you don’t remove them first you won’t be able to disassemble the auxiliary section. Hope this helps
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918
Thank you so much for the mentorship, sir. It is challenging to find guidance on the topic. You are truly helping out a lot of people. You are a legend.
If you have time, maybe you could answer these questions - I completely understand if you are too busy:
1. Is the most common way to reassemble an auxiliary to stack it in the transmission, rather than on a table - outside of the outliers with the bolted range cylinder?
2. If one reassembles the auxiliary on a table, and then goes to install it, will the individual be able to align the countershaft timing marks with the front auxiliary drive gear?
3. When one personally picks timing marks 180 degrees apart on a gear, what is the purpose of this - making sure the countershaft gears are centered, acknowledging that gears wear a certain way over time, and helping with future disassembly & reassembly?
4. Do you have a video that goes through the air control system - range valve, range cylinder, and splitter cylinder?
I apologize for taking up your time. Thank you for any mentorship you can offer.
Anthony
@@AGDieselPower ive been rebuilding eatons for about 10 years, all auxillary sections i build on the bench and make sure everything's working right then mount it to front box of trans, its nice because you can do it horizontally instead of standing the trans up, also aux drive gear does not need to be timed with auxillary section
I have a question from the 8yo son of a woman I know at Church. He hears the 8ll has major problems with 4/7, does the 9all?
My personal question is is a 10speed fro18210c durable? Or would a 13 be more robust? I'd imagine the 10 is since their is no 2nd air split.
Between the 9, 10 and 13 which would be most suitable for 140000lbs 90% on road. Acceleration isn't an issue this is in Amish country back roads, not highway use.
Nice video bud .. question what do it usually cost to rebuild the Eaton fuller D13 transmission
I got a Volvo 2012 VNL 670 D13
Wow that shop is trashed 😂
What’s trashed about it?
@@etrtruckcenterenginedrivet8918 maybe he wants a pink tablecloth on the assembly bench so he dont get his handbag dirty ?
#Roger
Interesting I've never seen it done that way before I've built lots of these I have a special cup that I use that spaces up the auxiliary counter shaft up to the perfect height and I build the auxiliary on the bench and then I have special plates that have a hole drilled through them that bolt into the counter shafts and then I lift the whole auxiliary section on and drop it on at once because you don't have to time the bottom gears but hey it works the only thing I'm really confused about is obviously you're using all new bearings why the hell didn't you measure the spacing for the shim for the rear counter shaft it looks like you just put the original ones back in and that's not the proper way it's done I'm just curious every mechanic's got their own way of doing stuff but I've never seen someone just throw The shims back in there that was the only thing that threw me off