I have always noticed that my coolant would go down faster than I thought it should, after watching this video, low and behold I found this exact leak in my p38. Thanks
Good afternoon, I had exactly the same Range Rover 1997 2.5 tds, from 2004 to 2011, and the oil seal of the interior heater (radiator of the stove) flowed in the same way. But I can tell you for sure, I did not cut or break the air ducts, with a little effort they are normally removed. And judging by your engine start, do you have problems with the fuel equipment, maybe the control nozzle, maybe everything is pouring? And you need to look at the injection pump, the injection angle, the booster pump and the plunger pair. Good luck
Good job mate, if you've never repaired a LR with duct tape then you're not a real Landy owner.😄 I'd check how damp it is under the carpet. I repaired a leak on a D1 and the carpet was still damp 2 weeks later. I pulled the carpet and the sound proofing was wetter than a pornstars hoo-ha. I hoyed it out and the steel floor was bright orange with rust. Que quality time with wire wheel on angle grinder.🤬 As for your engine issues, I'd drop in a Cummins 6BT aka the 5.9 12v, P-Pump preferred, VE pump acceptable. Straight pipe compulsory😁 The vp44 is shite, it's caused problems on my mates d22. Even causes problems on the Cummins 6.7. The BMW M51 was available with the mechanical VE pump 😉 Keep up the good work mate👍🏻
Thanks! Haha yeah, duct tape works for a lot of things👌🏼 I have lifted the carpets, no rust at all, luckily I have a very good air dryer which I've had on inside the car after fixing the leak. I think I've extracted about 3 litres of water from the interior🤣 Maybe maybe this Range Rover needs an engine swap, I think the closest option for me would be an M57.. but I'll try my best to get this engine to work first!
Hi there: You referred in video of having a nanocom which model do you have. Is your Rover a Gems or Bosch as mine is a 1996 Gems 4.6. The SRS system needs a reset. Great job on video clip... I accessed my heater like you did. Worked out great. Thanks WW
Looks a lot easier than my attempt. I ended up pulling the entire unit out and rebuilding with a substitute Audi heater element. What size O rings did you use, and what was the sealant you used?
Oh wow that's a big job then!! Sorry for my late reply.... I can't recall what size, I have many sets of o-rings so I just picked the ones that fit. The sealant is a liquid gasket which you can use for all types of coolant leaks. Just a generic brand.
With these old Land Rovers now, it's a case of slowly patching them up and that usually means stripping them down and out, more for functionality than 'looks'. I currently have the carpets out of my D2, chasing water leaking issues and I don't think I'll bother putting them back in! Hope you can get the old beast running right.
@@rosscoupland5833I'm not sure but I definitely don't think it is, I think that is just a temp sensor for the HVAC system as the system automatically adjusts fan speeds etc according to coolant temps.
@@Td5Adventures I actually have one of those engine guard coolant temp monitors in my D2, and have the thermocoupler on exactly the same spot. It is the last point in cooling system, before the liquid is returned to the radiator, so it gives a good, true reading for the system.
So I've gotten to where you use the oscillator to cut out the air vent😭 I'm so scared. How did you fix that up? Surely duct tape wouldn't seal that completely, right?
It is worst when cold, if I've had it running for a while and diesel is at the pump it starts a little easier but still very hesitant. This car hasn't been MOTd since 2016 so I don't use it on a daily basis which makes almost every start a cold start, especially with it being winter and below 0.
Not going to knock you on using tape BUT you used duck tape which will dry out and fail you need to use duct tape which is silver foil and is used in heating systems and lasts for ever, like the videos' keep them coming.
Tell me please, i need to know before i begin to work on it.I have the same car, same problem, but right hand driver and 4.6 engine. it is the same spot the pipes i mean? Thank you
The whole assembly and pipework should be mirrored and be on your passenger side. But please do note that I have not worked on any RHD P38 and can't guarantee it!
@@restojon1 Hey bro. Didn't had time to do it. But, as far as i found out that the pipes are still in the same position. That means .....the pipes are under the wheel. Not very good position thou
The ducting from the blower motor you did not have to cut you can just wiggle it off. Not a bad job but I have RHD so alot harder as the steering wheel is in the way.
Done this today. Your video was invaluable, thanks. I had problems reattaching the vent pipes with the restricted space. I used o-rings without sealant and they seemed to work.
Your inbuilt GPS screen is a very weird setup. Don’t recall that as factory OEM….Otherwise there is another way for the Heater Core, and that is to replace the whole works from inside the engine compartment to heater matrix with VW/Audi heater matrix
Thanks for watching! Yeah I've seen the VW/Audi mod as well but for now just sealing the connections has worked fine👌🏼 The GPS is factory original by the way!
Thanks. I will be doing same job for a 4.6 in December for one of my clients. You have saved me from pulling out the dash.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
I have always noticed that my coolant would go down faster than I thought it should, after watching this video, low and behold I found this exact leak in my p38. Thanks
Glad you found the leak!
Good afternoon, I had exactly the same Range Rover 1997 2.5 tds, from 2004 to 2011, and the oil seal of the interior heater (radiator of the stove) flowed in the same way. But I can tell you for sure, I did not cut or break the air ducts, with a little effort they are normally removed. And judging by your engine start, do you have problems with the fuel equipment, maybe the control nozzle, maybe everything is pouring? And you need to look at the injection pump, the injection angle, the booster pump and the plunger pair. Good luck
Good job mate, if you've never repaired a LR with duct tape then you're not a real Landy owner.😄
I'd check how damp it is under the carpet. I repaired a leak on a D1 and the carpet was still damp 2 weeks later. I pulled the carpet and the sound proofing was wetter than a pornstars hoo-ha. I hoyed it out and the steel floor was bright orange with rust. Que quality time with wire wheel on angle grinder.🤬
As for your engine issues, I'd drop in a Cummins 6BT aka the 5.9 12v, P-Pump preferred, VE pump acceptable. Straight pipe compulsory😁
The vp44 is shite, it's caused problems on my mates d22. Even causes problems on the Cummins 6.7.
The BMW M51 was available with the mechanical VE pump 😉
Keep up the good work mate👍🏻
Thanks! Haha yeah, duct tape works for a lot of things👌🏼
I have lifted the carpets, no rust at all, luckily I have a very good air dryer which I've had on inside the car after fixing the leak. I think I've extracted about 3 litres of water from the interior🤣
Maybe maybe this Range Rover needs an engine swap, I think the closest option for me would be an M57.. but I'll try my best to get this engine to work first!
Excellent video my friend well put together and very informative, hope to see more from you and thankyou.
Hi there: You referred in video of having a nanocom which model do you have. Is your Rover a Gems or Bosch as mine is a 1996 Gems 4.6. The SRS system needs a reset. Great job on video clip... I accessed my heater like you did. Worked out great. Thanks WW
Thanks for watching!
I have a Nanocom evolution and my engine is the EDC diesel version👌🏼
Very well done and helpful !
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Excellent job mate, I've gotta do my discovery soon, good to see some content on this 👍
Thanks!!
I hope it was of some help😁
Good luck!
Nice job. Bit of a pain as they all are, but it’s done. Don’t forget about the viscous fan!
Thanks!
Yeah, definitely a pain but if you cut the vents it isn't too bad actually. The viscous fan has been replaced with a brand new one 😁
Big thanks very good video
@vitoscaletta8966 Thanks for watching, hope it helped!
@Td5Adventures More than, this leak happened today
Did you do any work on the ABS pump? Mine is not coming on so I have a used one on the way. I think my switch is bad.
Does this apply to to Land Rover LR3 4.4L
Looks a lot easier than my attempt. I ended up pulling the entire unit out and rebuilding with a substitute Audi heater element.
What size O rings did you use, and what was the sealant you used?
Oh wow that's a big job then!!
Sorry for my late reply....
I can't recall what size, I have many sets of o-rings so I just picked the ones that fit. The sealant is a liquid gasket which you can use for all types of coolant leaks. Just a generic brand.
With these old Land Rovers now, it's a case of slowly patching them up and that usually means stripping them down and out, more for functionality than 'looks'. I currently have the carpets out of my D2, chasing water leaking issues and I don't think I'll bother putting them back in! Hope you can get the old beast running right.
Oh man, you're right, always chasing problems!
I hope so too, would be nice😍
@@Td5Adventures is the temperature sensor on that lower aluminium hose the 'main' coolant temp sensor?
@@rosscoupland5833I'm not sure but I definitely don't think it is, I think that is just a temp sensor for the HVAC system as the system automatically adjusts fan speeds etc according to coolant temps.
@@Td5Adventures I actually have one of those engine guard coolant temp monitors in my D2, and have the thermocoupler on exactly the same spot. It is the last point in cooling system, before the liquid is returned to the radiator, so it gives a good, true reading for the system.
@@rosscoupland5833 You're right about that! Clever design 👌🏼
So I've gotten to where you use the oscillator to cut out the air vent😭 I'm so scared. How did you fix that up? Surely duct tape wouldn't seal that completely, right?
I used silicone grease on the o rings, put some copper ease or similar on your m5 bolt for next time 🙂
Aaah, copper grease, yeah I have recently started using it more, good tip!!
Is your starting problem just when It's cold ? Or is it every time that you start it ?
It is worst when cold, if I've had it running for a while and diesel is at the pump it starts a little easier but still very hesitant. This car hasn't been MOTd since 2016 so I don't use it on a daily basis which makes almost every start a cold start, especially with it being winter and below 0.
Not going to knock you on using tape BUT you used duck tape which will dry out and fail you need to use duct tape which is silver foil and is used in heating systems and lasts for ever, like the videos' keep them coming.
Yeah you're right there! Should be done with better tape..
Do you have a video on how to replace heater core on p38?
I unfortunately don't and I'm hoping I'll never have to make one 😅
Tell me please, i need to know before i begin to work on it.I have the same car, same problem, but right hand driver and 4.6 engine. it is the same spot the pipes i mean? Thank you
The whole assembly and pipework should be mirrored and be on your passenger side. But please do note that I have not worked on any RHD P38 and can't guarantee it!
@@Td5Adventures thanks. I will tell you this after i began to work on it.
@@ionutzpintea4461 great, good luck!
@@ionutzpintea4461 how did it go on the rhd model? I need to do this in a few days time
@@restojon1 Hey bro. Didn't had time to do it. But, as far as i found out that the pipes are still in the same position. That means .....the pipes are under the wheel. Not very good position thou
Paint correction? 🙂👍
Ja tack! 😍
The ducting from the blower motor you did not have to cut you can just wiggle it off. Not a bad job but I have RHD so alot harder as the steering wheel is in the way.
6:44 eyebrow raising moment! Haha. Thanks for taking the time to video this. Much appreciated.
Oh haha, you don't like cutting up an old Range Rover? 😅
Done this today. Your video was invaluable, thanks.
I had problems reattaching the vent pipes with the restricted space.
I used o-rings without sealant and they seemed to work.
@greenhenry109 That's awesome! I'm super glad to have been of help and thanks for watching!
Your inbuilt GPS screen is a very weird setup. Don’t recall that as factory OEM….Otherwise there is another way for the Heater Core, and that is to replace the whole works from inside the engine compartment to heater matrix with VW/Audi heater matrix
Thanks for watching!
Yeah I've seen the VW/Audi mod as well but for now just sealing the connections has worked fine👌🏼
The GPS is factory original by the way!
I'll be referring back to this video when my core starts leaking.
I hope it won't leak but if it does I hope this video helps!
👍
Fuel pump you need to drop the whole gas tank.
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