Stock Traxxas shock vs Traxxas Big Bore shock
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มี.ค. 2019
- Comparing a stock Traxxas shock vs a Traxxas Big Bore shock. The Big Bore shocks ARE an upgrade from the factory shocks, and the fit and finish is top notch....... but lets compare.
People have pointed out that I failed to mention the "Titanium" shock shafts that come with the Traxxas "Big Bores". So here it goes.... The gold shock shafts are NOT made out of Titanium. Titanium is a non ferrous metal, so a magnet will not stick to it. Try it yourself and you will see that a magnet does indeed stick to these shafts. The gold color is a Titanium Nitride (TiN) coating just like what is used on TiN coated drill bits. The TiN coating is an improvement to the stock shafts because the Titanium Nitride coating is much harder than the base material and is very corrosion resistant, so it will have less wear and will in turn wear the shock seals/o-rings less as well. But keep in mind that TiN is a very thin coating, and doesn't contribute much to the bending/breaking strength of the shaft. Some say they don't break the TiN coated shafts as often, but is it just a coincidence? The jury is still out on that one. Some will also argue the TiN coating is more slippery than the regular shafts so the shock will have a smother action, but after carpet racing for many years, I have not been able to tell a difference in a car's suspension action, or lap times in a blind test at a race track equipped with a MyLaps track timing system. Not to say the TiN coated shafts aren't better, but it would take a better racer than I am to be able to tell the difference in performance at the track.
So, in closing, if you're a serious basher that drives in mud & water frequently, and doesn't clean your truck after, (shame!!! ....shame!!!) then the TiN shafts will be best to keep corrosion to a minimum.
P.S. - If you want to keep cheap Chinese shocks from leaking, first check that the shocks are assembled correctly. (Often times the manufacture messes that up) Most shock o-ring assemblies should go in this order (Shock body, O-ring, Teflon/plastic washer, O-ring, Bottom cap). If the order is correct and it still leaks, replace the plastic washer that's in between the O-rings with a thicker one, or add a thin washer to the o-ring stack, or use larger o-rings from another shock rebuild kit.
Thank you all for the comments, they are valuable to help me, and everyone else learn more about this awesome hobby.
I'd like to thank Adrenaline Hobbies, Roy Utah, for loaning me the Big bore shocks for this test. www.adrenalinerchobbies.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Stronger shaft, smoother movement, stronger body and cap. Tighter seals.
Exactly. I never blew caps off the stock shocks but I bent a lot of shafts. Never bent a shaft on the upgrade shocks.
There is supposed to be a blue o-ring for that lower gap. Plus their only 26 bux everywere.
My big bores came with the spacer already on the shaft
I have pro-line powerstrokes and just got the GTR shocks, as soon as I get the springs for them I’m hoping to see a difference somewhere 😅
Very good video, I was about to buy a pair of traxxas big bore shocks, got some hot racing ones for the same price
The naming convention is actually really old. They been selling these big bores since the early 90s...came on the srt, trx3 and tcp...the part numbers are even still the same. This was before the rustler came out with the ultra shocks. These actually are bigger bore than the shocks they originally replace...(the blue aluminum like what came on the nitro hawk and blue eagle...and the older smaller bore shocks that came on like the hawk2 and sledgehammer).
That's good to know the history, Thank you for the comment!
I thought those clips at the top of the shock are preload spacers. Also my stock 2wd slash shock springs do not have that blue line on them.
The springs you have are most likely the stock ones that came with the truck. For some reason Traxxas doesn't mark the stock shocks with the color code. If you buy Traxxas shock springs off the shelf, they will be color coded to let you know what spring rate they are. When you add the spacer clips to the shock, they DO add some preload. How that effects the truck depends on whether the springs are progressive rate/dual rate springs, or standard rate. Progressive springs are coiled tighter at the top and bottom and have a wider gap in the middle, or they will have a "Beehive shape". Spring rates should probably have a video all of it's own.
Well, traxxas never says “bigger” bore.
I just bought the Atomic RC supposedly Ultra big bore (Joke shocks) for my boys stampede 4x4 vxl and filled them with oil and the pieces of shit won’t rebound or come up at all after pushing down on the chassis to test them. Plus the front springs rub weird on the toe bar links behind the shocks. Any suggestions or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks
That suck man, sorry about that. If the springs are rubbing, you'll have to try putting some spacers or small washers with some longer screws on the upper shock mounts to get the top of the shock further away from the upper shock mount. Just enough so the springs don't rub. If the shocks are smooth and rebound fine off the truck, then it's more than likely binding at the shock mounts. wish we could send pics. I'm not the best at figuring out problems that I can't get my hands on.
Just wondering when measuring shocks straight off the car measure full top of shock n full bottom, or hole to hole, lil confused, would like to go aluminum but maybe with a cheaper shock am on a slight budget
I wish there was an easy answer, but it seems that different companies measure their shocks differently. The aluminum shocks I bought from Amazon use the total length measured from the outside of the eye. Which could be a little off depending how much the end is screwed in or out. You can use shocks that are a little longer or shorter than the originals, but I would go with longer. You can always put shock limiters on the shaft if you need to limit travel.
Thank u I've been measuring top n bottom of shock with caliper
The piston itself has bigger holes drilled in it that the oil pushed through
Most people bend the shafts regularly, another plus of the big bore titanium shaft right?
Not to mention he admits at the end of the video that he basically upgraded most of the shock, including shorter shaft. He wasn't reviewing a stock at all.
It has a titanium nitride coating
What is the last ahock you are using im having a problem finding good big bore shocks for my bandit vxl . Any recommendations ? Thanks
Good question, I haven't ever owned a Bandit so I'm not sure. l know the suspension setup is fairly similar to the 2wd Slash. I'll have to look into to it. Most of my Traxxas vehicles have Traxxas GTR style shocks that I swapped the shafts with the correct length and used spacers and longer screws for the mounts. Where space didn't allow for 12mm bore shocks, I used the stock shocks with aluminum caps & RPM'S dual stage pistons. Some vehicle setups are too tight for larger than stock bore shocks. You have to make sure the springs don't rub anything. While I'm working on your answer, maybe somebody else here might have a better recomendation.
@@jasonsphar2 thanks !!!!!!!
The upgrade shocks don't break and the shafts don't bend.
big bore titanium shaft
The Traxxas "Big Bore" are called that hey cars they were bigger then the original Traxxas shocks. Not too long ago the Traxxas Ultra shocks came out and replaced the original skinny shocks.
What I have notice is
The shock piston is the same size on the Big Boar and the ultra
The outside of the shock is smaller on the big bore then it is on the ultra
The shock caps seem to be the same size on the Big Bore as they are on the Ultra, however the Ultra shock caps seem like they dont tighten real tight/ seal properly when put on the Big Bores, and the Big Bore caps go on the Ultra shocks but with some force.
I wish they would of just made the Big Bores an exact replica of the Ultra shocks just made them aluminum with the TI-NI shock shafts so that parts could be interchangeable. Its very frustrating when something kind of fits.
Great comments!
I've just ordered the Ti shafts for our ultra shocks. I hope they'll fit.
They are apparently hardened steel, which should help avoid bending.
I already have 500cst oil for my ARMA, so hope to just use that in place of the 350 that came with the Traxxas.
@@richardcorfield9926 awesome. Let us know if they fit. Would be great if they do.
@@jasonsphar2 It seems fine.
The odd thing in assembly is that the volume of liquid changes with piston position (hence the rebound presumably). If I assemble the cap with the piston bottom then it cannot be pushed to top. If I assemble with piston half way up or so then it's fine. The shock can bottom out without issue (no spring on it) and rebounds.
I have 500cst oil in as I used my stock from my own car. Not driven it yet but bounce on the table test seems fine.
Big bore my ass. The GTR shocks, there's actually a difference.
Seems to be just a durability upgrade, not really a performance upgrade. What a rip.
Ultra shocks are just as good as the BB.
@Daniel Nunez i found this out shortly after i started popping aluminium caps. I went to the BB and ill never look back
I just put So called Atomic Rc Ultra shocks on a stampede 4x4 vxl and the shit piles don’t even move after pressing the chassis down to test them lol. Not sure wtf the problem is. I wrote to Atomic so we’ll see what they can tell me.
Those Pittsburgh calipers are garbage. Good video. Got the jist of the info I need across but dude throw those things away. Repeatable results with the same measure made me rethink those. Also you used the wrong side of the calipers to measure the inside diameter of the shock bore. Flip it 180 and use the other side. Not trying to talk crap. Keep it up!!
Thanks for the comment. I know these calipers are not the best, but they are good enough for this type of work. I have a nicer set for precision work. Dial calipers are a "close enough" type of measuring tool. Micrometers are more accurate if precision is required, but IMO, an inside micrometer would be overkill for this measurement, so dial calipers it is. On using calipers, I was using them correctly. The back/spine side of the calipers are for making inside diameter measurements. The long jaw side is for outside diameters only. If I'm using them incorrectly, then the entire U.S. military and automotive industry are all using them wrong as well. I'm always receptive to learn something new, so If you have a different understanding on how to use calipers, please send a link to a "how to use dial calipers video that shows the correct way. Below is a link to a how to use calipers. www.instructables.com/How-to-Use-a-Dial-Caliper/
Big bore is a marketing gimmick
You should get a new mic
Gimmick
Thay are bigger first of all you have a two big measuring thing it can't go all the way down
I'm sorry my friend, they aren't bigger. Since you don't seem to know the name if the tool I was using, it leads me to believe you may not be familiar with it's capability. Calipers can also check the depth of the bore from the inside, which I did off camera before shooting the video. My apologies for not showing that on camera. You don't have to take my word for it, anybody can take these measurements themselves. If you are not familliar with the capabilities of digital/dial calipers, you can check out this other guys video, that demonstrates how to use calipers to check bore depth. th-cam.com/video/4fBycE1dk0I/w-d-xo.html
This doesn't make any sense at all... you're measuring the OD of the body, not the bore inside the shock.🙄
I measured the bore diameter as well, it just didn't show up in the video. These shocks were brand new, so the difference between the shock piston diameter and the bore was infinitesimal. Your welcome to measure the differences for yourself if you are not satisfied with the information provided.