Same problem starting on mine and only 43k on it, and its a 2010 Charger. I teared up tho watching your beautiful wife being there with you. I lost my wife 5 years ago and that brought back wonderful memories. My Wife and I did everything together. God Bless You guys, and thank you for your service. My 17 yr old daughter is in the Air Force.
Mitch, my prayers go out to you and your family. Keep being strong and always smile in memory of your wife. She may be physically gone, but the love will never die as long as you keep it alive. Blessing to you brother.
A few points to throw in here. Cover your intake holes immediately once the manifold is off. You don't need to remove the chain to replace any of the rockers. Wrap a towel on a pry bar and gently lift that magnetic wheel he was initially confused about and CHECK THEM ALL because a busted rocker isnt obvious from just giving them a tickle while theyre pinned under the cam. Replace them all! It's worth it. Get the good ones, cast iron from AutoZone or whatever. Pour motor oil over them once they're in because they're dry. Get yourself an unbreakable t30 bit or a few because you will easily break one. Buy new plenum and valve cover gaskets and some lifters anywhere that will take them back if you don't need them. Also take this opportunity to change your spark plugs.
You did a pretty good job man. The metallic substance you found on the rear of the cams is due to the magnetic strips which are essentially the tone wheel for the cam sensor. The sensor on the valve cover all the way in the rear is the cam sensor it reads both cam signals on that bank. The 2 on the front are the camshaft phaser actuators to manipulate valve timing. Great job bro!
Was this a normal volume of metallic powder on the magnetic strips after 100K miles. I have approximately same amount of residue on 2015 3.6 Grand Caravan with 100K. Changing all 24 rocker arms & lifters with tick just beginning. Located one bad rocker on #4 so far.
Good video, I watched about half of it and then just dove into this job. Mine turned out to be the front-most rocker arm on the driver side head. You mentioned being thankful that yours was the one at the rear of the camshaft so you didn't have to mess with the timing chain. For the record, even removing the front-most rocker arm (closest to the chain) was easy without messing with the chain at all. It was pretty easy to get the new one in too. The thing I screwed up the first time was that I didn't notice one of the rockers towards the middle of the camshaft had gone crooked before I tightened the cam back down. I started it up and it wasn't ticking anymore but was running rough. Turned out the very edge of that one rocker was riding on the valve stem and not seated properly. Loosened the cam and straightened that rocker out and now it runs nice and smooth (and quiet).
From what I can gather on this issue is that the rocker you replaced is just the first of many that will self destruct, along with the cam shafts. Enjoyed the good video and wish you the best of luck.
I attempted this yesterday with a couple of issues - 1, the PCV/EGR valve attached to the exhaust cam had a third bolt that was stripped. I was stuck until I decided to break off the plastic part that screws to the valve cover. 2, when re-tightening the camshaft bolts, three of them snapped off inside of the head! I'll be at the machine shop getting the bolts backed out. My advice to all - buy new camshaft bolts as the old ones have been heat-cycled so many times that they may not be able to sustain enough pressure on the camshaft. Also note that there is a tightening sequence for both the camshaft bolts and the upper intake manifold.
Valve Cover too. Additionally don't you need to put each cylinder at top dead center when you do the rocker arms, or can you just do it wherever the engine is
My car just started this at 168,000 miles. 2012 Chrysler 300 3.6...I change oil 2x a year (and never have used synthetic)...great motors and almost bullet proof. Thanks for the video
Damn that's a lot of miles for a 2012 lol. 168k! Definitely got your money's worth. I love classic Fords but my Daily is a 2016 Challenger with the 3.6 liter engine. Awesome car.
7:58 What is that last sensor for? mine is covered with oil , I tried to change my spark plugs but it didn't work as expected the last of the black tortillos one came out crooked and I needed a tool to remove the others and that's how I saw that covered sensor
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Replaced all rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash on the right side of engine immediately after hearing ticking noise @119,328 on 8/26/21. One rocker arm was bad and 3 had some play. Job needed a valve cover gasket set, upper intake gaskets and Throttle Body gasket (not replaced). Replaced torque crews on PCV valve (old gasket used) with 5mm bolts for easy access. Remove the throttle body to access the 2 throttle body support bolts. Two bolts removed to relocate transmission fill tube. Special tools needed to secure the cam shaft. Lifter: 12x: MELLING JB7525 Rocher Arm: 12x: MELLING MR1332
Man, put a tissue into these intake runners, you could easily drop a screw into them or a little stone could stick to the plenum and fall down as you move it. Good chance to completely ruin your engine.
Bro, be careful undoing bolts while having tension still on your cam chains. I hope it all worked out great for you, and this is likely the problem with my mini van! Thank you for the video.
that's so dope your wife is out helping💪 I tried to educate my girl on automotive stuff and she is very well open to learning but she is scared to touch anything under the hood
Thanks man. She is not scared to tackle projects for sure. She changed her own thermostat last winter but I didn't get it on video. It was the multi piece one and Im sure it would have had a ton of views. Oh well.
He’s lucky he didn’t get it out of time..do not recommend replacing the follower in the same manner as him. If you do happen to have a follower fail the camshaft should also be replaced because if the follower has locked up what do you think the lobe on the cam looks like?
There is actually a reliable and safe way to handle the timing chains during cam removal on this motor. Chrysler write- up: **With the valve cover removed you have access to the 2 cam gears and the chain tensioner isn't far from reach. We have special tools, which Im sure OTC or someone makes for a reasonable price if your interested or otherwise I'll explain the process and you can decide if you want to just imper-vise. On Bank one, the bank I had concerns with: Steps: 1) Set the motor to TDC and make sure the cam timing marks are lined up. 2) Mark the timing chain links that line up with the timing marks on the cam with a paint pen 3) Loosen the Cam Phaser retaining bolt on the cam to be removed 4) Rotate the exhaust cam CW to compress the timing tensioner using the timing chain. 5) Insert the special tool between the cam gears to hold tension on the chain tensioner. Long screw driver or such may work too) 6) Remove the Cam Phaser and chain 7) Support the chain with a zip tie or something so it doesn't fall To re-install just reverse the procedure NOTE: **If you count the chain link pins there should be 12 between the timing marks on the intake and exhaust cam gears
the hydraulic lifters is the tapping noise you typically hear from this engine. you pull the cams and then mark and remove the rockers to make sure they go back into the original position. push on the lifters and it should feel spongy. if it pushes down and sticks it needs replaced.
Cory Walters usually it's rockers not lifters. I've done these about 3-4 times, Chrysler tech, and I've never seen a lifter collapse but I have heard of it
Good. I have a problem with a 2011 dodge charger 3.6 with 190 thousand miles that I bought. I changed the expired oil, changed the spark plugs, cleaning the injectors, cleaning important sensors, acceleration body. Once it has been tuned, it will be given a 5w / 30 oil to clean the inside of the engine. I changed the synthetic caite x 10w / 30 again. THE DETAIL THAT I STARTED TO RING IN THE COLD THAT IS 1 OR 2 SECONDS AND NOW. I turn on the check ingine and the result is the camshafts and I have changed them, The 3 chain tensioners are changed and everything is fine. And the rattle came back. What will be the problem? They do not know what it can be. Can you help me?
Mr military it looks good. Glad you didn't go for ft lbs. Don't know what that instant start rattle on the start was. But I think you should go in and change all the little hydraulic lifters to make it trouble free. They get gunked up then don't spring up making the rocker fall off.
that wasn't anti-seize on the cam sensor wheels...they are magnetic. that was oil mixed with the disintegrated roller bearings that were inside that bad lifter.
I agree, I wish I had a video of it ticking but didn't think to make a video until l had already started. I even thought about putting it back together just to hear it but my wife needed it fixed. Thanks for the comment.
I have the same issue on my car can someone help on what tools IE socket size torx size, i would need to do this job and the torque specs for the valve cover and cam bearing?
Is this less likely to happen if I've only ever used full synthetic oil in the engine? I have 138,000 miles on my 2012 200 v6 and it's still quiet.. for now... i think. I rarely ever have the hood up while it's running.. just for oil changes and the like.
Needle bearings was gone out of that rocker you need to take your oil pan off also to see if they may be in there because you don’t want that circulating trough your oil /and change oil also
Thanks for the tips getting ready to fix one for a girl i know but you guys know if you would have bought a Chevy you would have never had this issue lol jk mopar is my second choice and thanks for your service to this great country god bless you soldier
I had to replace my rocker arms too, did you buy any chance have problems after you put everything back together, like having esc light and check engine light come on with p0344 code?
What causes these rockers to fail? Is it faulty rockers, or is it faulty design of the engine? In other words would replacing all the rockers with new ones permanently cure the problem? Thanks!
Im not really sure, I would say faulty rockers according to the guys at the dealership where I purchased the parts. I would never change any more unless I had another one fail. The vehicle has 175K on it now and not a single issue after changing the one rocker.
First does it have oil? Second Is your oil too thick or chunky. And third the oil pump is probably bolted to the bottom of your block inside the oil pan... but that is just a guess.
What kind of bits are you using? If the heads are aluminum like mine I wouldn't think they were that tight. I always spend a little more money on some good hex bits just to make the job more positive.
^^Spin the crank until the lobe is facing up and work it around with a pick. >> Theres hollow torx bits that snap like crackers. Need something mega for this job, for sure.
$1,500 would be normal. I'm in the middle of doing all 24 rockers cast iron from AutoZone at $10 a piece and $50 in new sockets, picks, and hopefully invincible torx bits. That's just over $300 for diy if you're up for being sore for a week.
105 pounds of foot pressure seems way too much for that sure you don't have that confused with your head gasket bolts so should be only about 30 inch-pounds
texas tough the 5w20 is the problem everyone I know who runs 5w20 has this problem I run 5w30 scence 10,000 mi engine has 120,000 mi no lifter tic none of that bullshit
My mechanic is saying I'm having issues Beyond the camshafters and the rocker arms. I get my oil changes regularly. But I do put the cheaper oil in my vehicle will this cause the problems beyond norm?
Ain't no substitution for a 426 Max Wedge. Great video though. P.S. That car you're driving in for parts shopping is better than the one you're fixing.
Man, you are one luck SOB! This ticking didn't start until after 100,000? Most of them fail anywhere between 15,000 and 50,000 miles. Did you happen to see if the genuine Mopar part was made in Mexico?
Better sell it. Am sure that's just the start of problems. Doesn't it have a lifter there on that rocker arm that should have been replaced? They make all these engine way to complicate today. Why so you have to take it to the dealership or should we call it the stellership. Go back to the old push rod motor. You could have the valve cover off in 5 minutes. Timing chain's will be next with all the other crap with them. Looks like that's the pc valve you had a hard time getting of.
Same problem starting on mine and only 43k on it, and its a 2010 Charger.
I teared up tho watching your beautiful wife being there with you. I lost my wife 5 years ago and that brought back wonderful memories. My Wife and I did everything together. God Bless You guys, and thank you for your service. My 17 yr old daughter is in the Air Force.
Mitch Muerle can u just loosen the cam main journals like in the video and just replace the rocker or do u have to neutralize the cams ?
Mitch, my prayers go out to you and your family. Keep being strong and always smile in memory of your wife. She may be physically gone, but the love will never die as long as you keep it alive. Blessing to you brother.
Mine is doing the same here in BRAZIL.... jk 2014. Thanks friends.. and regards for all
2010's don't have 3.6's. I imagine yours has blown up by now anyway.
Sorry for your loss man
A few points to throw in here. Cover your intake holes immediately once the manifold is off. You don't need to remove the chain to replace any of the rockers. Wrap a towel on a pry bar and gently lift that magnetic wheel he was initially confused about and CHECK THEM ALL because a busted rocker isnt obvious from just giving them a tickle while theyre pinned under the cam. Replace them all! It's worth it. Get the good ones, cast iron from AutoZone or whatever. Pour motor oil over them once they're in because they're dry. Get yourself an unbreakable t30 bit or a few because you will easily break one. Buy new plenum and valve cover gaskets and some lifters anywhere that will take them back if you don't need them. Also take this opportunity to change your spark plugs.
You did a pretty good job man. The metallic substance you found on the rear of the cams is due to the magnetic strips which are essentially the tone wheel for the cam sensor. The sensor on the valve cover all the way in the rear is the cam sensor it reads both cam signals on that bank. The 2 on the front are the camshaft phaser actuators to manipulate valve timing. Great job bro!
Was this a normal volume of metallic powder on the magnetic strips after 100K miles. I have approximately same amount of residue on 2015 3.6 Grand Caravan with 100K. Changing all 24 rocker arms & lifters with tick just beginning. Located one bad rocker on #4 so far.
Taylor is a very lovely assistant.
Great work!
I miss my Charger now. Maybe one day when my kids are older I can get another one.
Thanks for the comment. This will surely not be my last charger.
Good video, I watched about half of it and then just dove into this job. Mine turned out to be the front-most rocker arm on the driver side head. You mentioned being thankful that yours was the one at the rear of the camshaft so you didn't have to mess with the timing chain. For the record, even removing the front-most rocker arm (closest to the chain) was easy without messing with the chain at all. It was pretty easy to get the new one in too.
The thing I screwed up the first time was that I didn't notice one of the rockers towards the middle of the camshaft had gone crooked before I tightened the cam back down. I started it up and it wasn't ticking anymore but was running rough. Turned out the very edge of that one rocker was riding on the valve stem and not seated properly. Loosened the cam and straightened that rocker out and now it runs nice and smooth (and quiet).
From what I can gather on this issue is that the rocker you replaced is just the first of many that will self destruct, along with the cam shafts. Enjoyed the good video and wish you the best of luck.
Thanks, it has been running good for 70K miles.
I attempted this yesterday with a couple of issues - 1, the PCV/EGR valve attached to the exhaust cam had a third bolt that was stripped. I was stuck until I decided to break off the plastic part that screws to the valve cover. 2, when re-tightening the camshaft bolts, three of them snapped off inside of the head! I'll be at the machine shop getting the bolts backed out. My advice to all - buy new camshaft bolts as the old ones have been heat-cycled so many times that they may not be able to sustain enough pressure on the camshaft.
Also note that there is a tightening sequence for both the camshaft bolts and the upper intake manifold.
Valve Cover too. Additionally don't you need to put each cylinder at top dead center when you do the rocker arms, or can you just do it wherever the engine is
Inch pounds not foot pounds...
My car just started this at 168,000 miles. 2012 Chrysler 300 3.6...I change oil 2x a year (and never have used synthetic)...great motors and almost bullet proof. Thanks for the video
Im sorry to hear that. I hope you get it repaired in a hurry. Good luck.
Damn that's a lot of miles for a 2012 lol. 168k! Definitely got your money's worth. I love classic Fords but my Daily is a 2016 Challenger with the 3.6 liter engine. Awesome car.
Bout to cross 200k miles with mine.
7:58 What is that last sensor for? mine is covered with oil , I tried to change my spark plugs but it didn't work as expected the last of the black tortillos one came out crooked and I needed a tool to remove the others and that's how I saw that covered sensor
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Replaced all rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash on the right side of engine immediately after hearing ticking noise @119,328 on 8/26/21. One rocker arm was bad and 3 had some play. Job needed a valve cover gasket set, upper intake gaskets and Throttle Body gasket (not replaced). Replaced torque crews on PCV valve (old gasket used) with 5mm bolts for easy access. Remove the throttle body to access the 2 throttle body support bolts. Two bolts removed to relocate transmission fill tube. Special tools needed to secure the cam shaft.
Lifter: 12x: MELLING JB7525
Rocher Arm: 12x: MELLING MR1332
this at 55 seconds is the pcv valve it feeds oil vapour through that hose to the air intake.
p.s.Thanks for your service.
Right on, Thanks!
Man, put a tissue into these intake runners, you could easily drop a screw into them or a little stone could stick to the plenum and fall down as you move it. Good chance to completely ruin your engine.
Bro, be careful undoing bolts while having tension still on your cam chains. I hope it all worked out great for you, and this is likely the problem with my mini van! Thank you for the video.
Why you can't unscrew it?
Thanks for showing the car running before and after
1:42 Thank you for the great shots!
Wish he would’ve shown what it sounded like before. So i could make sure this is the fix i needed.. but great upload otherwise
You'll know when you hear it. Not as loud as a broken crankshaft, just a ticking noise on top.
If the tik doesn't go away then its the followers. All the the mopar mechanics verify it.
that's so dope your wife is out helping💪 I tried to educate my girl on automotive stuff and she is very well open to learning but she is scared to touch anything under the hood
Thanks man. She is not scared to tackle projects for sure. She changed her own thermostat last winter but I didn't get it on video. It was the multi piece one and Im sure it would have had a ton of views. Oh well.
He’s lucky he didn’t get it out of time..do not recommend replacing the follower in the same manner as him. If you do happen to have a follower fail the camshaft should also be replaced because if the follower has locked up what do you think the lobe on the cam looks like?
There is actually a reliable and safe way to handle the timing chains during cam removal on this motor. Chrysler write- up:
**With the valve cover removed you have access to the 2 cam gears and the chain tensioner isn't far from reach. We have special tools, which Im sure OTC or someone makes for a reasonable price if your interested or otherwise I'll explain the process and you can decide if you want to just imper-vise. On Bank one, the bank I had concerns with:
Steps:
1) Set the motor to TDC and make sure the cam timing marks are lined up.
2) Mark the timing chain links that line up with the timing marks on the cam with a paint pen
3) Loosen the Cam Phaser retaining bolt on the cam to be removed
4) Rotate the exhaust cam CW to compress the timing tensioner using the timing chain.
5) Insert the special tool between the cam gears to hold tension on the chain tensioner. Long screw driver or such may work too)
6) Remove the Cam Phaser and chain
7) Support the chain with a zip tie or something so it doesn't fall
To re-install just reverse the procedure
NOTE:
**If you count the chain link pins there should be 12 between the timing marks on the intake and exhaust cam gears
Wow. Thanks
@MrTrenbo need help locating the nut/bolt holding the trans oil tube.
the hydraulic lifters is the tapping noise you typically hear from this engine. you pull the cams and then mark and remove the rockers to make sure they go back into the original position. push on the lifters and it should feel spongy. if it pushes down and sticks it needs replaced.
Cory Walters usually it's rockers not lifters. I've done these about 3-4 times, Chrysler tech, and I've never seen a lifter collapse but I have heard of it
OHC engines DO NOT have lifters...lmao
Good.
I have a problem with a 2011 dodge charger 3.6 with 190 thousand miles that I bought.
I changed the expired oil, changed the spark plugs, cleaning the injectors, cleaning important sensors, acceleration body.
Once it has been tuned, it will be given a 5w / 30 oil to clean the inside of the engine. I changed the synthetic caite x 10w / 30 again. THE DETAIL THAT I STARTED TO RING IN THE COLD THAT IS 1 OR 2 SECONDS AND NOW.
I turn on the check ingine and the result is the camshafts and I have changed them,
The 3 chain tensioners are changed and everything is fine. And the rattle came back.
What will be the problem? They do not know what it can be.
Can you help me?
Did you check the rockers like in the video?
Mr military it looks good. Glad you didn't go for ft lbs. Don't know what that instant start rattle on the start was. But I think you should go in and change all the little hydraulic lifters to make it trouble free. They get gunked up then don't spring up making the rocker fall off.
That is your PCV valve and that is what’s holding your valve cover on.
Thanks.
I think you meant to say 105 in.lb. for the cam caps at about 6:30 ?
Something like that.
mansters 105 in lbs lol i hope not ft lbs theyll break
Thays the same shit i said when he said ft lbs 😩😂
1:10 That's your PCV valve/breather. It relieves the pressure under the pistons so it doesn't blow your engine up
And FWIW you should replace it while you're in there as preventative maintenance anyway
Buenos días a causa de esa válvula se puede bajar la presión del aceite
that wasn't anti-seize on the cam sensor wheels...they are magnetic. that was oil mixed with the disintegrated roller bearings that were inside that bad lifter.
PCV valve is held on by end of camshaft is why you couldn’t get valve cover off soak new roller rocker in oil before installing it
do two oil and filter changes in a row,space them about 1000 miles each,the roller material went somewhere
I'll keep a look out for the same thing on my sisters car. Great video.
How often does this happen? Looking at a 200c now, don't know if I should buy it.
Nice job on your video, but wish you would have run the engine demonstrating the ticking. Maybe you have another video with the ticking heard.
I agree, I wish I had a video of it ticking but didn't think to make a video until l had already started. I even thought about putting it back together just to hear it but my wife needed it fixed. Thanks for the comment.
MrTrenbo hey buddie great video....im experiencing the same issues with mines...how much you think a mechanic would charge for a job like this
did he mention a part number by chance? my engine has the same ticking noise as well.
Thank you for the video...just changed a bad lifter now.
Glad it helped
How did u remove the transmission dip stick out of the way
I replaced all rockers an push rods still makes the tick cams looked fine 😢
Possibly an exhaust leak. Does it go away once the engine warms up?
Wonder if this would be the same for a 09? My speed demon tick's loud when I start it up as well.
The cams are magnitized in spots for sensors to know cam position. Any where its not magnetic its clear of metal particulate
Thanks, I was unaware of that.
I have the same problem on my 2012 charger. Thanks for the video.
Good luck buddy, Cheers.
My ticking is on cylinder #3 can I remove it with out messing with the timming chain?
I believe you can pop them in without even loosening the cam. It will just press the valve down slightly so ive heard since then
I have the same issue on my car can someone help on what tools IE socket size torx size, i would need to do this job and the torque specs for the valve cover and cam bearing?
Push the bolts up into the plenum before putting it back on and cover those intake ports while working.
Is this less likely to happen if I've only ever used full synthetic oil in the engine? I have 138,000 miles on my 2012 200 v6 and it's still quiet.. for now... i think. I rarely ever have the hood up while it's running.. just for oil changes and the like.
Well you've made it farther than mine without needing it so you must be doing something right.
MrTrenbo I sure hope so haha. She does see a lot of redline action...
You can't really hear it unless the hood is open and your listening for it.
We have a 2011 Dodge avenger, is the torque specs the same for the cam shaft u bolts? 3.6 l dual over head cams.
Yes. All Pentastar 3.6s should be the same (I mention 3.6 specifically cuz there's supposedly other sized Pentastars)
Thanks man I got the same ticking problem now I got good clue on what it could be
Glad I could help
As a sixteen year self taught mechanic,goo job,also everybody ,u did today ,u do have to take that back vacuum connecter peace out the valve body
Thanks brother, Cheers!
How did you keep the chain from moving?
I never took the tension off the chain. Maybe I was just luck.
Needle bearings was gone out of that rocker you need to take your oil pan off also to see if they may be in there because you don’t want that circulating trough your oil /and change oil also
Thanks brother.
what is the size of the screws that came off of the back of the valve cover
T25 I think it says in the video
Hi my car is 2011 dodge charger v6nd is doing the same i put a video check ..do y ou thing could be the same.. troublesome
It sounds the same as mine.
MrTrenbo yes how much tie have have to be the screws. And thanks im going to changed my self thanks
Thank you for the video y thank you for your service!
Thanks for the tips getting ready to fix one for a girl i know but you guys know if you would have bought a Chevy you would have never had this issue lol jk mopar is my second choice and thanks for your service to this great country god bless you soldier
THERES UPDATED ROLLERS FOR THESE.OIL TYPE ISNT GOING TO HELP THE PROBLEM MUCH. the oil pump doesnt push enough volume up to the head on these engines.
I had to replace my rocker arms too, did you buy any chance have problems after you put everything back together, like having esc light and check engine light come on with p0344 code?
No codes or lights on mine
What causes these rockers to fail? Is it faulty rockers, or is it faulty design of the engine? In other words would replacing all the rockers with new ones permanently cure the problem? Thanks!
Im not really sure, I would say faulty rockers according to the guys at the dealership where I purchased the parts. I would never change any more unless I had another one fail. The vehicle has 175K on it now and not a single issue after changing the one rocker.
I have 3.6 petrol engine with no oil pressure how do i replace the oil pump
First does it have oil? Second Is your oil too thick or chunky. And third the oil pump is probably bolted to the bottom of your block inside the oil pan... but that is just a guess.
This video helped me out a lot thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Thats the Pcv not a sensor
the old rocker arms never gave problems.
You need a new cam also
105 foot pounds on camshaft caps!!?
bobbyd lol
I'm guessing lb inches!
i spit my coffee out when i heard that!
@@seanmonday I've been a tech for too long to not call it out
89in/lbs its suppose to be torqued to
Excellent video. do you have the part number for the rocker and the gasket?
No Im sorry I don't. And I see I didn't even get it on video. Just have to call your dealer.
How many miles? How often do you do oil changes? What kind of oil?
About 160K by now. I change the oil every 3-4K Castrol GTX
How in the heck do you get the cam caps off? I keep breaking my bits trying to get the bolts loosened up.
What kind of bits are you using? If the heads are aluminum like mine I wouldn't think they were that tight. I always spend a little more money on some good hex bits just to make the job more positive.
I just did this job on my 2014, I was able to change the rocker without loosening the cam at all
Justin Beckwith how were you able to do it without loosing up the cam?
^^Spin the crank until the lobe is facing up and work it around with a pick. >> Theres hollow torx bits that snap like crackers. Need something mega for this job, for sure.
How much did it all cost you?
Basically just the parts from the dealer is all. Not too bad at all.
How much of an estimate is this Job worth...i think i have the same issues with mines
Have to call a dealership. I charged my wife dinner.
MrTrenbo lol....got you....i was hoping you could've just gimme a random off the top number....it aint gotta be right
I had the same thing done at my local dealer and it was $1500. But that also included 2 cam shafts and new spark plugs.
The dealership told me it was going to be $4,000 replace the lifters, camshifters and the Rocker arms
$1,500 would be normal. I'm in the middle of doing all 24 rockers cast iron from AutoZone at $10 a piece and $50 in new sockets, picks, and hopefully invincible torx bits. That's just over $300 for diy if you're up for being sore for a week.
I have a broken valve spring on mine. Anybody know a way I can replace it without buy $500 worth of special tools?
Man u have that much space to get ur pvc valve off. I got barely and inch on the wrangler
What bit did you use to take off bolts for cam shaft?
That's a t30 aaand you might want a few of them. You can easily break em. They're on there real good.
89 inch pounds for cam bearing caps
Thanks
Having the same issues the noise and scraped cam shifters. How is the car driving now? Did you replace the camshafts that was damage?
No damage to cam shafts. 60K miles still running strong
@@MaxAC that cam lobe was ground down. You could see it.
About haw many miles did the ticking start? Thanks
101K miles is when I noticed it.
You did a great job! How many miles on this engine ? Thanks....Jim
185,000 now
before you fixed this did this cause the car to have a unsteady idle?
Not noticeable.
Clean your throttle body to smooth your idle
I watched a TH-cam video and now I am a mechanic
Thanks for making this video. Did you have to replace any gaskets?
I think I replaced the valve cover gasket.
@@MaxAC Thanks. Mine is ticking and I have to get a parts list going.
Please buy stands for your camera to make it clearer. And please please more videos like that. Was really useful. Thank you
I would like to but nothing else is breaking...Thank God.
Sorry timing
Was your lobe on the cam alright
yes the cam appeared fine.
That is a pcv Valve
105 foot Lbs? wow! Seems a bit much.
105 pounds of foot pressure seems way too much for that sure you don't have that confused with your head gasket bolts so should be only about 30 inch-pounds
Yes you are very lucky she is indeed lovely. Don
1:13 pcv
Camshaft caps torque should be 89 inch pounds! Do these all the time
Good to know, thanks buddy
are you positive?
That'll break a Walmart torx bit like a pretzel stick lmao
I think that's PCV valve. Was that #5 cylinder rocker arm?
Thats a great question.....I couldn't tell ya other than looking at the video.
Looks like you broke transmission stick.
there must be an oiling problem.
texas tough the 5w20 is the problem everyone I know who runs 5w20 has this problem I run 5w30 scence 10,000 mi engine has 120,000 mi no lifter tic none of that bullshit
My mechanic is saying I'm having issues Beyond the camshafters and the rocker arms. I get my oil changes regularly. But I do put the cheaper oil in my vehicle will this cause the problems beyond norm?
Ain't no substitution for a 426 Max Wedge. Great video though. P.S. That car you're driving in for parts shopping is better than the one you're fixing.
Lol, no kidding . Hence why I have an will own my Galaxie longer than the Charger.
that's the PC valve on the back of the valve cover
Thanks.
How long did it take you
Only a few hours, basically an afternoon if you get your parts ahead of time.
Thank you for documenting your experience. Did you keep the vehicle? If so, did it need any more rocker arms?
No more rocker arms yet. Still have it with 151K on it now.
Gotta remove that PCv valve my brotha lol it set on the cam that’s what is hanging u up
Man, you are one luck SOB! This ticking didn't start until after 100,000? Most of them fail anywhere between 15,000 and 50,000 miles. Did you happen to see if the genuine Mopar part was made in Mexico?
I did not look to see where it was made.
Better sell it. Am sure that's just the start of problems. Doesn't it have a lifter there on that rocker arm that should have been replaced? They make all these engine way to complicate today. Why so you have to take it to the dealership or should we call it the stellership. Go back to the old push rod motor. You could have the valve cover off in 5 minutes. Timing chain's will be next with all the other crap with them. Looks like that's the pc valve you had a hard time getting of.
There is no half inch bolts on any American made car it's all metric note
That motor was the noisiest motor I ever heard I can't imagine how it sounded before he fixed it . Lol sounds like a 7 th grade band classroom.
He only changed one rocker and it was the only one he physically inspected. There's 24 so chances are that he has to do the job all over again.
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