Which Performance Thermostat for your 5.0L? - SN95 Owner's Guide #5
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2018
- Owner's Guide #5 we talk about the unglamorous, topic of engine cooling thermostats, and why you should choose carefully.
Why bother with a thermostat even? Throw that thing in the trash and let it pump full bore? We cover that too, the answer is more important than you might think!
This is the SN95 specific series you have been waiting for! No BS, just pure tech and experience, Darren is here to serve the SN95 community and help you get the most out of your 1994-1998 Mustang!
Darren's has 4 different SN95 Mustangs lined up to to show a variety of modifications and success stories.
This series will count on user interaction for from viewers just like you, so please LIKE, SHARE, and SUBSCRIBE!
Got a question you want answered, drop it in the comments below!
gtconcepts.ca
Follow us on social media:
Facebook - / grandtouringconcepts
Instagram - / grandtouringconcepts
Twitter - @theguysatGTC
Music by: Teknoaxe: / teknoaxe - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I just completed a p.i. intake manifold swap on my 97 GT convertible 5 speed. Along with all the other bolt ons. ( bbk 73mm, slp catback, bbk cold air, steeda underdrive pulleys, sr performance aluminum driveshaft). Upon completion of the install, for some reason, I decided to buy a moshimoto racing thermostat, because in my mind i thought cooler is always better. The car would not even warm up. It was bad. I ended up putting a new oem replacement in it and it still runs a little cooler but it now warms up faster, and my fans kick on when they're supposed to. The moshimoto thermostat never got up to temp so my fans never kicked on. I would stay with a stock thermostat unless heavily modified with a different temp sensor for the fans.
That is a great data point and aligns with my experiences as well. Glad to hear you got it figured out. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts question for you darren. In the future could I run a 97 cobra t stat? I know the 97 GT thermostat is a 190? The cobra a 180? The moshimoto therm I put in was 160. A little too extreme. Either way with this intake manifold swap the car really does run colder even with the oe thermostat.
Thank you!
I was trying to decide what to run and found this
Thumbs up for the professional introduction.
Great video. Great info
Great video. Thank you.
Great Video! Thanks for taking the time to make this. Good info.
Thanks! They are something I really enjoy making and am glad to know they are helpful. -Darren
Thanks for the great content!
wow that is interesting . my mustang coolant temp stays pretty cold unless im in traffic an its a 100 degrees out an humid (south texas) ive noticed is smells like its running rich at times .. no cel .
If you wanted to run an underdrive pulley set would you want cooler?
95 mustang 5.0 convertible having some issues trying to see if this is the culprit or maybe ect sensor or iacv or possibly a vaccum/exhaust leak some where
When I start the car everything is fine ,drive around for a few minutes and the check engine light flashes,idle becomes more of a “chug” sounds like it’s gasping for air or has a cam (which it dosent) lol it’s straight piped from the first cats back… newish radiator new alternator new spark plugs new tranny and oil fluid/filters new ambient air sensor/new MAF / cold air intake /newish fuel pump, car was experiencing same issue two weeks ago but would only flash check engine light randomly while driving /accelerating then would shut off as I took foot off gas/ slowed down with the brakes. When the check engine light shows the car feels like it won’t shift out of the gear that it’s in,it will just push the rpm’s higher as I press the gas more then when I let off it’s a very quiet “chuggy” idle. Also emitting what smells like exhaust vapors pretty strongly when the check engine light is engaged PLEASE HELPPP
Car will die at idle occasionally,Also car made same issue the other day and when it shut off I hopped on the highway to get back home(was working out of town) and she got me through about 2.5 hr drive with no stalls or overheating so I’m confused as I would have thought there was ahead gasket issue but there was no overheating at all ,wouldn’t the car get hot after driving that long If it was the head gasket ? And I wasn’t feathering it either lol
Huh. Occasionally get a cel while driving but its intermittent. Have had tons of issues keeping the car cold and have even eaten a head gasket because the thermostat failed while on a highway. This week my fan burnt up at the connector and the motor died with it so I'm in the process of wiring a black magic 180 into the car and i planned on swapping a 180 thermostat in. Interested to see if that may fix the issues I have. Like getting 12 mpg. Thanks for the info this page is the reason I bought my 94 cobra
I live in UK, and I run a 180 in the summer, and a 190 in winter. Works for me.
The 180 is a great balanced choice I think for many applications, but I am glad to hear the seasonal switch to a 190 is successful strategy for you. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
What about my gt40 explorer swapped ranger?
Can you make a video about vacuum lines!?
I can certainly add it to the video list, it might take a little time to assemble the visuals though as not too many cars have a full OEM system any longer. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts I have a 1994 GT Mustang it's an automatic but it has all the oem lines. The only thing not stock is a new radiator.
Your vac lines are probably like my 5.0 ranger.. pretty old and weathered. Hell, half of mine are washer fluid lines. But they work as they should now and I have a good runner aside from cam syncronizer going
Will you be making any more videos like this?
There is one going through editing right now! Thanks for watching!
thermostats make the radiator work! i have a 2 core aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat and a fan controller. i use these parts to keep my mustang at 200 degrees. why? cause i read in a mustang performance book that at 200 degrees, our cars make the most power...
What about on my Binary Editor I have it set at 186 on temp and run a 160 t stat and car runs at 186. Should I change it you think? My tune is spot on and car runs amazing.
AAD Great question! So I am a huge fan of if it isn't broken don't break it, in your case, if the car is working well I see no need to change the thermostat in your application. A 160 might be perfect for your operating environment and that is good to go. Inside the scope of most SN95 cars out there they are untuned, or their tuner may not adjust the minimum coolant temps and fan toggle speeds to match a sub 180 thermostat, the recommendations are purely a benchmark. Anyone using a twEECer or other datalogger can easily test by going for a drive and watching for the OL/CL toggle, it should remain in CL unless at first cold start or WOT. If it hits OL during cruise we know to check for over cooling. As a short term band aid for my Lightning we simply lowered the OL temp to 160 F but it had drawbacks of poor heater performance and a 3 mpg loss in my all-weather truck, so a hotter thermostat was my fix. Again, thanks for the comment and discussion! -Darren
I found running A 170 works best for me and I live in ne ohio. Aluminum radiator and 2 fan on a toggle. Lol I love how it runs now
The fan on toggle is what's saving it. Otherwise you'd have issues.
My fans never kicked on oce with a moshimoto 160 degree in it i threw it out and got oem spec and have no issues
In dyno tests, we found no rwhp increases with a 180 vs. 195 degree thermostat.
Less temp equals less stress,wear and tear..Dont think it only for HP..
Dude..I have posted before and gave a bit of info about 9 0f my 5.0s..I havent told you that I own a dedicated Ford Performance shop.I am actually the 2 year running State Drag Racing Modified Champion and Im in the lead this year, winning all 3 races so far in my manual 94 CONVERTIBLE with a ROUSH All Aluminum Stroked 351W/427 SBF..I cant share my exact build but im running a mid 8 second SN95 MANUAL..Any questions,just ask man..Take care..C..
Thought of a discord group?
Can a 180 degree thermostat that gets stuck open hurt fuel mileage if the car has the stock tune for 195 degrees?
So what’s the best for fla weather?
Pretty late reply, but I'm running a 180 degree thermostat. Not the fail safe one so it doesn't get stuck open. No engine codes and it stays cool as long as the fan is on, even in stop and go traffic
Hey what's up Mike
I'm from north Florida (lake city)
I run no thermostat
With a 140 thermoswitch that's in the thermostat housing. (One wire) It just grounds the high speed terminal in the CCRM
Runs great, no check engine light.
I may change for a 160 (thermoswitch) becuase in the summer the fan pretty much runs constantly.
-95 cobra
I think my water pump may be going bad. My car on the highway goes to he middle then up to the A almost to the L sometimes on te gauge. Then when I get off it goes back to around the O and R
I had the same problem on my foxbody and replace the water pump now all good, with the 180 t-stat
Mine over cools on the O then when im at idle it over heats at the A befor the fans kick in
Pretty much the same thing on my 97' GT. I think that's just the norm. For these things.
So in your case you could actually set the OL temp to whatever you want using BE, right? My question is what temp do these engines make the most power, assuming you have the ability to tune out the ecu pulling timing when ECT gets high. If Ford put in a 190 thermostat for best emissions/efficiency then I imagine best power is not far off of that. Maybe it's like you suggested, a 180.
With recalibration access such as BE you can certainly rework the OL temp triggers. As for what makes the most power, I haven't seen a proper ect vs rwhp test scale. Generally 5.0L like to run cooler whereas in my limited testing mild modulars make more power at 200°F or so.
I have a 94 5.0 with the kenne bell 1.8l blower. I am trying to tune the car and need some help with it. Just have questions about the VE and the reason why binary editor limits the slopes for the fuel injectors. I want to run e85 and have 78lb injectors. Help please. I am running the car with the 180 as well and it runs 190-201 degrees depending on the weather.
You are a little bit outside my area of knowledge, I have never worked with E85 or injectors larger than 42 lb/hr in Binary Editor. Have you had any luck on the ECCTuning forums? -Darren
I tried squeezing my hose while it was running And I didn’t feel any water but at the same time my engine doesn’t get too hot. Could that be the reason why the thermostat doesn’t open? What do you guys think?
It could be stuck out or doesn’t have one in it, I run a 170 degree Arkansas gets hot and very humid!! And if you ever advance your timing to high and engine temps get high you notice the chatter even with high octane gas, I run mine at the point of chatter with mid grade so 91/93 octane helps and helps it perform alittle better
@egaldi7
P
He bro make something for 4.6L 1997 mustang GT