Boss man that is the best example of how to use this system I have seen yet. You have been a real blessing to me. I would work for you in a heartbeat. If my bills would allow. And probably Injoy my job again. My God bless you my friend.
After watching hundreds of hours of TH-cam for climbing information, I invested in the Notch Fusion and tether combo. I have an SOB full body harness that appears to be a clone of the Petzel AVAO bod. It has both chest and waist D rings to connect. But I am having exactly the issue Bino points out, you should not be laying back just climbing a ladder. I’ve tried connecting to the waist, the chest, the waist and chest, still trying to lay back as opposed to ascend like on a ladder. I actually think I need a heck of a belt around my chest to get me close to the rope. I’ll keep watching and trying, hope to figure it out. Oh yeah, I’m and old guy stocky like Bino, probably stockier by a fair margin 😀
Nice Bino. I used my rope wrench and foot ascender and knee ascender first time today. Went up 75' and removed a hanging huge dead limb. I kicked out one time on the way up, no biggie. just sat into my hitch, re-entered the climbing line to my foot ascender. Once I got my chest rig figured out, the knee ascender worked great. Until now, I have only been gaff climbing on DRT and doing removals. now, I can do deadwood removal and pruning. thanks for your calm wisdom and experience. George.
I have never seen a better explanation of srs. The rope at the top trick is something that I didn't know and the spiking from foot asenders are taking a toll. Awesome video
It amazes me the all the systems they have now. When I worked 42 years ago. We cut limbs and trees from the powerlines. All we had were rope, saddle and saw's. I like your video's
I'm a beginner to tree climbing and tree work. I bought a house about a year and half ago that needs a lot of tree work and I don't have enough money to hire someone to do all the necessary tree work for me. The biggest problem is there's about a dozen pine trees, many of which need to be removed. Some of them have limbs hanging over the house making it necessary to go on the roof to remove excessive pine needles droppings every few months. Further, all these pine trees drop way too many pine needles to leave them all on the lawn, which is also a big job to clean up. I've started removing some of the limbs from one of the pine trees with limbs overhanging the house. I'm using SRT with the Rope Runner Pro and the SAKA Mini Knee ascender and the Notch Jet Step Foot Ascender. I have a Big Shot and after numerous attempts been able to lines for SRS over unions (crotches) near the top of a couple of these trees, which I've now installed friction savers on. It works, but these pine trees are about 50-60 feet high and on most of these pine trees you have to go up about 30-35 feet before you reach any limbs, and you have get pretty close to the top of these pine trees before you could climb up between limbs using alternating lanyards because the limbs are just too far apart. So I have to use the ascenders to climb up nearly to the top of the tree. I do have some inexpensive tree spikes, but they make the trees bleed pine sap pretty bad making a mess. What's more, I'm not going to remove all the pine trees and it'll take me a long time to do all this work by myself, so I don't want to use spikes. My big concern is safety. Usually it seems with SRT what I see is that they just have the climbing line as the single tie-in until they reach some limbs. But with these pine trees, you have to climb 30-35 feet before you get to any limbs at all. That's a long way up with just one tie-in. What I've been doing is using one of my steel lanyards... I got them before I realized rope lanyards are much easier to manipulate!... and loop it around the pine tree to form a secondary tether tie-in point, so I don't have to rely on just one climbing rope to go so long and up 30-35 feet on just the climbing rope. So, if something were to go wrong with the climbing rope the lanyard looped around the pine tree would keep me from falling. This works, but it's VERY slow, and I'm wondering if there's any device that could make it easier to advance the lanyard up the tree after taking a few steps up with the knee and foot ascenders. Is there something I could put around the loop in the lanyard around the tree that is similar to the Buckingham Super Squeeze that would make it easier to advance up the tree. I'm also going to try attaching a secondary safety line to my harness, which would provide even greater redundancy. I also got the ROPE Logic adjustable friction saver, but I couldn't seem to find a way to make that work without it getting in the way of the Rope Runner Pro. I've seen the Tree Squeeze, but I'd think that have the same issue. I think both are really intended for spike climbing and I'd think both are likely to get in the way or the Rope Runner. Besides spikes, which I don't want to use until all the limbs are removed...where I might have to... is there anything else that anyone can think of that might be this easier and safer? Like. something which will keep the steel lanyard loop around the tree together better so it's easier to advance up the tree? I tried criss-crossing the lanyard too, but that also gets in the way of the Rope Runner. Any ideas?
Here in California if you have a high tie in point that is considered your life line and if you are using the stationary rope system you would just use your foot and knee ascender to ascend and when you reach your limbs that's when you connect your lanyard. It sounds like you have enough equipment you just need time to trust it.
@@BinoHOne other question. When you remove a tree... cutting it down log by log to the ground... is it virtually unavoidable that you need spikes for that? Or, is it perhaps possible to use an adjustable friction saver as a tether point for SRS just below the log you're going to take off of the trunk and then just move the adjustable friction saver down each time to cut a new log size portion of the trunk? Can you perhaps just hug your legs around the trunk as you're cutting each log sized segment of trunk? Or, do you really need spikes to do this?
Very clear information. Thank You. Spring is coming and I'm going to try this year learn rope wrench system. Till here I have climbed with Petzl ascender, Grigri and footloop. Br Timo / Finland
Nice, I'm happy I started SRS with the Rope Wrench it was easy to transition because your just adding the RW and tether and you may be able to use your favorite friction hitch. Take care!
Srt has always been the safest way to climb for me. Biggest complaint i hear is its gear intensive (very true) and its a hassle to advance canopy anchors; not with the quick links.
did a climb with a friend, he tied an apline butterfly about 2ft from the spliced eye, put a biner in the eye, and a quickie from the butterfly to the other leg of the rope, SRT up and work position, and Ddrt rappel
C. Bino interesante cada vídeo.Tengo una duda para hacer un acollador es correcto utilizar una soga de 13 mm .Hay una soga aplanada de 1 .5 pulgada estaría bien utilizarla.Gracias por su enseñanza.
Hi there just a quick question about the chest set up you have on in this video is it just a light one just to help move the rope wrench up the rope as it did not look like it would hold you up if the other parts failed to hold on the rope . I have watched a lot of your video's I am starting out to climb trees for fun.
I am wanting to get into this work, what’s the best way to get certified and we’ll trained on being able to do tree work and being able to be well equipped with using these types of systems?
Check out our intro to tree climbing playlist. That will give a basic idea. To become certified in International society of Arboriculture , for a tree climber Specialist you have to be in tree care for at least 18 months and to become an Arborist 3 years. One way is to get hired by a tree care company starting out as a ground man.
Hey Bino I’m buying the rope wrench and tether setup, I’m also looking at the zigzag with chicane, I know it’s redundant but…..question is, why can’t I just use the RW with zigzag? I’m a part timer so most of m work is on my property and friends/ family Generally spur work My theory just for me is, RW for entry SRT(I like the safety of a hitch) Once in the tree I want to go MRS at tie in, then go to work where most of the time I’m lanyard in, the MRS is back up and manoeuvrability Talk sense to me if I’m not being sensible! If you wish a phone call we can arrange that as well. I’m in Canada AST zone
I have seen people use the rope wrench but I believe Petzl recommends the Chacane they made it to work with the Zigzag. I feel the RW is a good way to get into SRS (Stationary Rope System) for that same reason of having a friction hitch. There is no need to switch to MRS when you reach the top if you have a RW you can just start working. Take care!
Thanks for the video. The Uniscender preceded the other mechanical prusiks on the market. Originally designed for DdRT (MRS), it was quickly adapted to SRT (SRS). When tip tying with the Quickie in the eye of a Butterfly, it doesn't like redirects. Try placing the Quickie above the Butterfly. Many climbers do the same trick with a ring, but the Quickie is midline attachable.
Yes the Unicender was the first one I tried. What I didn't like is that holes would widen and you would have to use a thicker diameter rope after time. I don't know it that problem has been solved. I do like the Qickie with a Butterfly.
@@BinoH The Uniscender does have wear problems. I think it's main issue is the aluminum wear points like you mentioned. Some climbers add a descent drum to help with friction management. Rock Exotica is working on a new version. Perhaps it will incorporate some stainless wear points like Edelrid is using on their Bulletproof carabiners.
Since I'll mostly be doing canopy work I'll need to do redirects and limb walks, so it's best I get my kit setup for SRS. Which rope wrench setup would you recommend? Why are there different length tethers? Does it depend on my Height? I'm 5'9 1/2" tall and 180 lbs. My climbing rope is 150" of Yale XTC Fire with one tight eye splice.
I think more it's what your preference is where your climbing hitch is from your belt and what type of hitch you use. Also how long your prussik cord is. If you like using a VT with a long cord you might like the longer tether but if you hitch cord and shorter and you're using something like Michoacan you might like a short tether.
@@BinoH Thanks Bino, that makes a lot of sense. I don't have a preference since I'm new at this. So, I'm thinking starting with a shorter tether and a Michoacan hitch. My thinking is keeping compact might make it a lil easier working my way around limbs in a canopy.
Hoping you can point me in the right direction here. At around 6:30, you show a base tie system, and the tie in point isn't isolated around one limb. It is already through several natural redirects. My question is, if you had your rope set up just like you show at 6:45, and you started climbing up the rope, how would you climb through the redirect points? When I look at that, I can't figure out how you would get your ascender above the redirect point while your weight is on the foot ascender. Perhaps you have already answered this in another video and I am just not looking for the right key words? Or there is a simple way around the problem that I am failing to see? Really hoping that you can explain or point me in the right direction to figure this out. Thanks so much for the many great videos already.
If your main tie in is higher you may be able to climb up through the crotch by using you foot ascender. If it's too difficult to climb up through you could tie in with you landyard when you reach the redirect and feed your rope through the redirect and connect back to your self. You're welcome and thanks for watching!
@@BinoH Thanks for the help. Do you know if anyone has a video showing this on TH-cam? I can imagine what you describe, but I feel like with this sort of thing the devil is always in the details. Again, thanks for the great videos and all the help you have given already.
Good morning. Bino. Yesterday I received a Rope Wrench manufactured by ISC. I noticed that during descent, in addition to the roller, the pin also rotates. Is this normal behavior, is it supposed to be like this? Please answer. Greetings from Poland.
If you are asking as a canopy anchor my understanding it's best to use a Quickie or a rated skrew link. I have seen caribiners used on base anchors but it's best if the carabiner has something that holds it in place so it does not side load.
Sure I have an HRC pruskic cord and for me it's worked well on Blue streak 1/2 inch line, New Engalnd Blue, Xstatic, Drenaline, Sterning HTP, Siver Ivy and Samson True Blue. Thank you!
Basically it's your preference but it also depends on the length of your tether and the hitch you use. If you have a long tether you can use a long cord or short cord. If you have a short tether you will need a short cord. My tether if about 7 inches long and I use a 24 inch cord using a Michoacan hitch.
I'm new to this so maybe someone can help but isn't it potentially dangerous to have a prusik below you mechanical asender, being if the mechanical fails and the rope slides the mechanical will then compress your prusik knot making that fail also?
An ascender above would only be to help ascend your climbing hitch is your safety. If your ascender failed you would still have a foot ascender or you could grab your running end of the line a stop.
REDIRECT >>> QUESTION>>> With the *RopeRunner Pro, are You snapping into Your lanyard once You accend into the canopy then disconecting the *R R Pro then tossing Your line over another 2nd crotch then re-attaching Your *RR Pro ? ? ?
Yes you get to location that you want to redirect lanyard in disconnect and set it through the crotch you want and reconnect. I made a video on it. Rope Runner Pro redirect.
Ive learned with crane jobs that shackles wich is basically a big quickie shouldnt be install in a way that the pin is being pulled just like in your example
There is a differnce in rigging and climbing operations. In rigging there can be dynamic loads and huge difference in wieght. In a climbing application you should never have a dynamic load. Having the Quikie set up this way the kn rating is 30 and it does not side load. I belive the rope would fail before the Quickie would. Thank you!
Off topic: do you have a video about friction savers for MRS? If not, is it possible to make one - with some "home made" options with carabiners (for better now the fs from one branch go another). Thanks!
@@BinoH if you have time and mood it would be good to make one video about types of friction saver (and like the light weight lanyard video some tricks and tips how to DIY) András
The way I understand it is that it's better not to use a carabiner because it's more possible the it could side load. a qickie or a screw link will not side load.
Mate! Thanks for your video. I've been studying Arborist climbing course online while collecting gear. I saw the rope wrench and I want it. But you show how to use all equipment. I am planning to do up to certificate 5 in climbing just to be perfect! You have the best tutorials ever! I love heights but I am practicing climbing teqniques on a wall I setup! Thank you sir! Cheers 🙂👍👍👍
Love you Bino! I learned everything I know from you and a select few other online aids. I’ve been filming some of my first climbs with a GoPro to try and document my practical application of these learner processes if anyone’s interested in seeing first hand what it looks like to learn from TH-cam! Check me out and help me if you have any better ideas 😛
Boss man that is the best example of how to use this system I have seen yet. You have been a real blessing to me. I would work for you in a heartbeat. If my bills would allow. And probably Injoy my job again. My God bless you my friend.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you and take care!
After watching hundreds of hours of TH-cam for climbing information, I invested in the Notch Fusion and tether combo. I have an SOB full body harness that appears to be a clone of the Petzel AVAO bod. It has both chest and waist D rings to connect. But I am having exactly the issue Bino points out, you should not be laying back just climbing a ladder. I’ve tried connecting to the waist, the chest, the waist and chest, still trying to lay back as opposed to ascend like on a ladder. I actually think I need a heck of a belt around my chest to get me close to the rope. I’ll keep watching and trying, hope to figure it out. Oh yeah, I’m and old guy stocky like Bino, probably stockier by a fair margin 😀
Nice Bino. I used my rope wrench and foot ascender and knee ascender first time today. Went up 75' and removed a hanging huge dead limb. I kicked out one time on the way up, no biggie. just sat into my hitch, re-entered the climbing line to my foot ascender. Once I got my chest rig figured out, the knee ascender worked great. Until now, I have only been gaff climbing on DRT and doing removals. now, I can do deadwood removal and pruning. thanks for your calm wisdom and experience. George.
Awesome! George, I'm happy that our videos are helping you out. Take care!
@@BinoH they do. Thanks Bino
I have never seen a better explanation of srs. The rope at the top trick is something that I didn't know and the spiking from foot asenders are taking a toll. Awesome video
Glad you liked it!
Good explanation on how to advance the TIP. The best to you.
Thanks, you too!
What an excellent summary.
Thank you!
thank you. I am just getting started gathering gear, this was very helpful.
Great to hear!
This has helped me so much as I’m a new tree climber for tying in using the notch quickie, I use the rope runner pro for SRT & the Zigzag for MRS
Thank you!
It amazes me the all the systems they have now. When I worked 42 years ago. We cut limbs and trees from the powerlines. All we had were rope, saddle and saw's. I like your video's
I know a days there are so many options and they a lot more comfortable and easier to use.
Good video Bino!
Thank you!
Thank you so much. This saves me a lot of time. May God bless you, sir.
You're welcome and thank you!
Thanks Bino. I appreciate your time.
My pleasure, Take care!
I'm a beginner to tree climbing and tree work. I bought a house about a year and half ago that needs a lot of tree work and I don't have enough money to hire someone to do all the necessary tree work for me. The biggest problem is there's about a dozen pine trees, many of which need to be removed. Some of them have limbs hanging over the house making it necessary to go on the roof to remove excessive pine needles droppings every few months. Further, all these pine trees drop way too many pine needles to leave them all on the lawn, which is also a big job to clean up. I've started removing some of the limbs from one of the pine trees with limbs overhanging the house. I'm using SRT with the Rope Runner Pro and the SAKA Mini Knee ascender and the Notch Jet Step Foot Ascender. I have a Big Shot and after numerous attempts been able to lines for SRS over unions (crotches) near the top of a couple of these trees, which I've now installed friction savers on. It works, but these pine trees are about 50-60 feet high and on most of these pine trees you have to go up about 30-35 feet before you reach any limbs, and you have get pretty close to the top of these pine trees before you could climb up between limbs using alternating lanyards because the limbs are just too far apart. So I have to use the ascenders to climb up nearly to the top of the tree. I do have some inexpensive tree spikes, but they make the trees bleed pine sap pretty bad making a mess. What's more, I'm not going to remove all the pine trees and it'll take me a long time to do all this work by myself, so I don't want to use spikes. My big concern is safety. Usually it seems with SRT what I see is that they just have the climbing line as the single tie-in until they reach some limbs. But with these pine trees, you have to climb 30-35 feet before you get to any limbs at all. That's a long way up with just one tie-in. What I've been doing is using one of my steel lanyards... I got them before I realized rope lanyards are much easier to manipulate!... and loop it around the pine tree to form a secondary tether tie-in point, so I don't have to rely on just one climbing rope to go so long and up 30-35 feet on just the climbing rope. So, if something were to go wrong with the climbing rope the lanyard looped around the pine tree would keep me from falling. This works, but it's VERY slow, and I'm wondering if there's any device that could make it easier to advance the lanyard up the tree after taking a few steps up with the knee and foot ascenders. Is there something I could put around the loop in the lanyard around the tree that is similar to the Buckingham Super Squeeze that would make it easier to advance up the tree. I'm also going to try attaching a secondary safety line to my harness, which would provide even greater redundancy. I also got the ROPE Logic adjustable friction saver, but I couldn't seem to find a way to make that work without it getting in the way of the Rope Runner Pro. I've seen the Tree Squeeze, but I'd think that have the same issue. I think both are really intended for spike climbing and I'd think both are likely to get in the way or the Rope Runner. Besides spikes, which I don't want to use until all the limbs are removed...where I might have to... is there anything else that anyone can think of that might be this easier and safer? Like. something which will keep the steel lanyard loop around the tree together better so it's easier to advance up the tree? I tried criss-crossing the lanyard too, but that also gets in the way of the Rope Runner. Any ideas?
Here in California if you have a high tie in point that is considered your life line and if you are using the stationary rope system you would just use your foot and knee ascender to ascend and when you reach your limbs that's when you connect your lanyard. It sounds like you have enough equipment you just need time to trust it.
th-cam.com/video/hQ9qkdNR8j0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jBa-nFR7P4Vk8j_p
@@BinoHOne other question. When you remove a tree... cutting it down log by log to the ground... is it virtually unavoidable that you need spikes for that? Or, is it perhaps possible to use an adjustable friction saver as a tether point for SRS just below the log you're going to take off of the trunk and then just move the adjustable friction saver down each time to cut a new log size portion of the trunk? Can you perhaps just hug your legs around the trunk as you're cutting each log sized segment of trunk? Or, do you really need spikes to do this?
Very clear information. Thank You.
Spring is coming and I'm going to try this year learn rope wrench system. Till here I have climbed with Petzl ascender, Grigri and footloop.
Br Timo / Finland
Nice, I'm happy I started SRS with the Rope Wrench it was easy to transition because your just adding the RW and tether and you may be able to use your favorite friction hitch. Take care!
Binooooooo.......happy holidays
Happy Holidays!
Great video, It was easy to follow and full of information.
Thank you I'm glad you liked it!
Great video brother. Thank you for sharing hour knowledge
Any time!
Srt has always been the safest way to climb for me. Biggest complaint i hear is its gear intensive (very true) and its a hassle to advance canopy anchors; not with the quick links.
I all true. Take care!
Awesome video!
Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Great video!
Thank you!
did a climb with a friend, he tied an apline butterfly about 2ft from the spliced eye, put a biner in the eye, and a quickie from the butterfly to the other leg of the rope, SRT up and work position, and Ddrt rappel
Sounds good!
Great video, very informative! Have you worked with the uniscender?
I've used it not so much for work. I don't like the way you have to descend.
C. Bino interesante cada vídeo.Tengo una duda para hacer un acollador es correcto utilizar una soga de 13 mm .Hay una soga aplanada de 1 .5 pulgada estaría bien utilizarla.Gracias por su enseñanza.
A 13mm is good to use but I have never used a flattend rope.
Hi there just a quick question about the chest set up you have on in this video is it just a light one just to help move the rope wrench up the rope as it did not look like it would hold you up if the other parts failed to hold on the rope . I have watched a lot of your video's I am starting out to climb trees for fun.
Yes the chest harness is not rated for climbing it's just to help tend the hitch up. Nice take care!
I am wanting to get into this work, what’s the best way to get certified and we’ll trained on being able to do tree work and being able to be well equipped with using these types of systems?
Check out our intro to tree climbing playlist. That will give a basic idea. To become certified in International society of Arboriculture , for a tree climber Specialist you have to be in tree care for at least 18 months and to become an Arborist 3 years. One way is to get hired by a tree care company starting out as a ground man.
I love you’re videos
Thank you!
Hey Bino
I’m buying the rope wrench and tether setup, I’m also looking at the zigzag with chicane, I know it’s redundant but…..question is, why can’t I just use the
RW with zigzag?
I’m a part timer so most of m work is on my property and friends/ family
Generally spur work
My theory just for me is, RW for entry SRT(I like the safety of a hitch)
Once in the tree I want to go MRS at tie in, then go to work where most of the time I’m lanyard in, the MRS is back up and manoeuvrability
Talk sense to me if I’m not being sensible!
If you wish a phone call we can arrange that as well.
I’m in Canada AST zone
I have seen people use the rope wrench but I believe Petzl recommends the Chacane they made it to work with the Zigzag. I feel the RW is a good way to get into SRS (Stationary Rope System) for that same reason of having a friction hitch. There is no need to switch to MRS when you reach the top if you have a RW you can just start working. Take care!
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. Stay safe, God bless
Glad you enjoyed it. Take care!
Thanks for the video. The Uniscender preceded the other mechanical prusiks on the market. Originally designed for DdRT (MRS), it was quickly adapted to SRT (SRS). When tip tying with the Quickie in the eye of a Butterfly, it doesn't like redirects. Try placing the Quickie above the Butterfly. Many climbers do the same trick with a ring, but the Quickie is midline attachable.
Yes the Unicender was the first one I tried. What I didn't like is that holes would widen and you would have to use a thicker diameter rope after time. I don't know it that problem has been solved. I do like the Qickie with a Butterfly.
@@BinoH The Uniscender does have wear problems. I think it's main issue is the aluminum wear points like you mentioned. Some climbers add a descent drum to help with friction management. Rock Exotica is working on a new version. Perhaps it will incorporate some stainless wear points like Edelrid is using on their Bulletproof carabiners.
I don't give a damn what anybody says, this dude is the fuckin man.
Thank you!
Since I'll mostly be doing canopy work I'll need to do redirects and limb walks, so it's best I get my kit setup for SRS. Which rope wrench setup would you recommend? Why are there different length tethers? Does it depend on my Height? I'm 5'9 1/2" tall and 180 lbs. My climbing rope is 150" of Yale XTC Fire with one tight eye splice.
I think more it's what your preference is where your climbing hitch is from your belt and what type of hitch you use. Also how long your prussik cord is. If you like using a VT with a long cord you might like the longer tether but if you hitch cord and shorter and you're using something like Michoacan you might like a short tether.
@@BinoH Thanks Bino, that makes a lot of sense. I don't have a preference since I'm new at this. So, I'm thinking starting with a shorter tether and a Michoacan hitch. My thinking is keeping compact might make it a lil easier working my way around limbs in a canopy.
Hoping you can point me in the right direction here. At around 6:30, you show a base tie system, and the tie in point isn't isolated around one limb. It is already through several natural redirects. My question is, if you had your rope set up just like you show at 6:45, and you started climbing up the rope, how would you climb through the redirect points? When I look at that, I can't figure out how you would get your ascender above the redirect point while your weight is on the foot ascender. Perhaps you have already answered this in another video and I am just not looking for the right key words? Or there is a simple way around the problem that I am failing to see?
Really hoping that you can explain or point me in the right direction to figure this out.
Thanks so much for the many great videos already.
If your main tie in is higher you may be able to climb up through the crotch by using you foot ascender. If it's too difficult to climb up through you could tie in with you landyard when you reach the redirect and feed your rope through the redirect and connect back to your self. You're welcome and thanks for watching!
@@BinoH Thanks for the help. Do you know if anyone has a video showing this on TH-cam? I can imagine what you describe, but I feel like with this sort of thing the devil is always in the details.
Again, thanks for the great videos and all the help you have given already.
Good morning. Bino. Yesterday I received a Rope Wrench manufactured by ISC. I noticed that during descent, in addition to the roller, the pin also rotates. Is this normal behavior, is it supposed to be like this? Please answer. Greetings from Poland.
Yes it rolls when you descend. As long as the slick pin is locked you have nothing to worry about.
@@BinoH thank you very much for your answer👍👍
@@arbersky4074 You're welcome!
Thanks for another great video. This explains it perfect.
Glad it was helpful!
Would using a climbing rated locking carabiner be a suitable substitute for the quickie ?
If you are asking as a canopy anchor my understanding it's best to use a Quickie or a rated skrew link. I have seen caribiners used on base anchors but it's best if the carabiner has something that holds it in place so it does not side load.
Hey man great video. Any advice on the best ropes and friction cord to run with a rope wrench? Cheers
Sure I have an HRC pruskic cord and for me it's worked well on Blue streak 1/2 inch line, New Engalnd Blue, Xstatic, Drenaline, Sterning HTP, Siver Ivy and Samson True Blue. Thank you!
Like your videos ,good information
Glad you like them!
Nice video. I am impressed with how small you have your friction hitch and wrench setup. Do you have a video with details on how to do that?
Yes I made a video called Rope Wrench Modification. I also made a video named SRT+ Michoacan.
How long of prusik is recommended for the rope wrench set up?
Basically it's your preference but it also depends on the length of your tether and the hitch you use. If you have a long tether you can use a long cord or short cord. If you have a short tether you will need a short cord. My tether if about 7 inches long and I use a 24 inch cord using a Michoacan hitch.
@@BinoH thanks!
@@MakinEmAtNight26 you're welcome!
@@BinoH you should do a video of the pros and cons of a full harness not just a saddle
I'm new to this so maybe someone can help but isn't it potentially dangerous to have a prusik below you mechanical asender, being if the mechanical fails and the rope slides the mechanical will then compress your prusik knot making that fail also?
An ascender above would only be to help ascend your climbing hitch is your safety. If your ascender failed you would still have a foot ascender or you could grab your running end of the line a stop.
Good job bro👍👍
Thank you!
REDIRECT >>> QUESTION>>> With the *RopeRunner Pro, are You snapping into Your lanyard once You accend into the canopy then disconecting the *R R Pro then tossing Your line over another 2nd crotch then re-attaching Your *RR Pro ? ? ?
Yes you get to location that you want to redirect lanyard in disconnect and set it through the crotch you want and reconnect. I made a video on it. Rope Runner Pro redirect.
@@BinoH Thanks Bino
Ive learned with crane jobs that shackles wich is basically a big quickie shouldnt be install in a way that the pin is being pulled just like in your example
There is a differnce in rigging and climbing operations. In rigging there can be dynamic loads and huge difference in wieght. In a climbing application you should never have a dynamic load. Having the Quikie set up this way the kn rating is 30 and it does not side load. I belive the rope would fail before the Quickie would. Thank you!
Thanks for your informative video Bino! Since you mentioned them, I'm curious if your knee ascenders work with your new Notch Jet Step?
Yes it does work very well even when I'm walking close to the trunk.
Great vid thanks
You're welcome, Thanks for watching!
Off topic: do you have a video about friction savers for MRS? If not, is it possible to make one - with some "home made" options with carabiners (for better now the fs from one branch go another).
Thanks!
I've only made a video on how to intall and retrieve from the ground!
@@BinoH if you have time and mood it would be good to make one video about types of friction saver (and like the light weight lanyard video some tricks and tips how to DIY)
András
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Bino 👍
Thank you
Is that pursick cord 10mm.....?
8mm
How do you get thr rope into the tree?
Sometimes coil the rope and throw.
Bono, can you use a caribener instead of a quickie ?
The way I understand it is that it's better not to use a carabiner because it's more possible the it could side load. a qickie or a screw link will not side load.
I feel like the rope wrench will never get old and its more cheap because the only thing you will change is your cordage
Yes I think it is a good way to start the SRS.
Mate! Thanks for your video. I've been studying Arborist climbing course online while collecting gear. I saw the rope wrench and I want it. But you show how to use all equipment. I am planning to do up to certificate 5 in climbing just to be perfect! You have the best tutorials ever! I love heights but I am practicing climbing teqniques on a wall I setup! Thank you sir! Cheers 🙂👍👍👍
Glad it helped, Take care!
Looking for someone in the south Texas region who can teach a course of tree climbing
Are your in fl?
I'm in California
Can you use a bow shackle instead of a quickie? I’ve got a million of those with some really high ratings
My under standing is the Quickie or rated screw links.
Love you Bino! I learned everything I know from you and a select few other online aids. I’ve been filming some of my first climbs with a GoPro to try and document my practical application of these learner processes if anyone’s interested in seeing first hand what it looks like to learn from TH-cam! Check me out and help me if you have any better ideas 😛
Getting my first quickie within the next week btw! Can’t wait!!!