Do not follow these instructions when installing the two hanger bearings. The washers go in between the bracket and frame. They are there to keep the axle in good alignment. Watch another video to see proper installation. Gong show is right!
Have an '07 and having same vibration problem, pretty sure it is the shaft as have had the same u-joint on it replaced twice and it still shakes. Never considered the CV joint as the problem but very well could be apparently!
Torque specs from the OEM manual: Rear diff is 54 ft-lbs (74nm), two center supports are 27 ft-lbs (37nm), and the center bolts (6 bolts) are 20 ft-lbs (27nm). Make sure the two front diff joints match the same orientation as the rear diff joint. Check for shaft straightnes (level) front to the back and remove the shim washers as necessary. If the rear end is sagging due to age, it may cause the shaft to come out of alignment and you don't need the shims. Joint angle for the front joint and the rear joint must be within 1.5 to 2.8 degrees, i.e. almost perfectly straight to your eye. Enjoy!
You don't have the spacers in the right position. There are two sets of spacers. That go between the carrier bearings and the body. The carrier bearings don't bolt flush to the body. The short spacers go between the rear carrier bearing and body, and the thicker spacers (3:27) go between the front carrier bearing, and the body. Not as a thick washer for the bolt. This will put the correct angles in place, to prevent premature wear and tear on the universal joints
Thank you so much for the guidance, I hope you will be able to get back to me. After installation and taking it for a ride and then inspecting it. The part where you said lubricate the shaft before inserting to not damage the seal. My driveshaft at that part is rubbing in the inside and making a grinding noise. Its so weird do you have an idea on why it would do that? thank you!
Great video guys. I might have the same issue but not sure how to check if the U joints are shot. Is there a trick to determining they are shot without taking the shaft off?
Where did you purchase the new drive shaft? What was the cost?Thanks for the two videos - 1,Removal, 2. Replace This is exactly the problem I have with my 2003 Highlander. Only 100,000 mile - should be barely broken in. Maybe the salty road in New Hampshire are a factor.
David Frost Hey David thanks for commenting. I bought it at pats driveline In Vancouver B.C. they sent by Courier the next day and it was proximately 6 to $700 service was great everything was there made the task very easy hope this was a help
Bought mine from Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL3WP5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . $445, free shipping. Having some whistling from the driveshaft at 40-55mph, but working to see if the center bearings need to be adjusted. Was quoted $1400 from a local shop to R&R!
coffeecup1234 good luck thanks for sharing.please let us know how it goes and how the quality is. Thanks again for helping others by sharing!! U tube needs more team players like you.
I have an AWD sienna with same issue, did the vibration shudder stop when he left off the gas, mine starts at 40 MPH. I'm about 99% sure I have a carrier bearing out on the shaft, or probably a U joint. If I remove shaft can I drive it in 2wd to confirm it's the issue?
Yep it was major bucks then contact pats driveline they ship anywhere service was great and.......superior parts by a long shot tell them you saw the vid on gongshowgarage
So I did this but I noticed that my car now having a vibration 60 an up, I wonder if the drive shaft I bought is not balanced properly!! Any suggestions?
THANK YOU ......Hopefully you have it in straight but check and see if you feel in you seat of you pants or the steering wheel that could be Wheel balance or front end issues good luck
I have an 06 highlander limited and the universal is definitely bad, but in addition to vibration which just started every time the car shifts from 1st to 2nd (automatic) it noticeably jumps a couple of inches to the left then back within a split second. Its been doing this for several weeks and haven't found anyone that knows why. Could this drive shaft being bad cause this? Its not pulling to the left as it would for a low tire, etc. it physically moves to the left then back. It has 240,000 miles on it and I don't want to sink a ton of money in it if it's transmission or rear end. Rear end was low and I changed the gear oil and crush washer. Very light metallic particles on the magnet, but no more than I would expect for that mileage. Thanks
Beening honest with ya I dont think that alone would cuase it but the shift vibrations sounds right I would also check CV shafts ....good luck let us know how it goes !
@@GongshowGarage Thanks for responding. I spent a couple of hours under it last night looking at the suspension and cv joints. Boots are all good and no sign of cracking. I couldn't find any play in the suspension either. Have a friend that works for AAMCO and he said he didn't think it was transmission.
SIR. I HAVE LEXUS RX 300 AWD. JUST NEED TO KNOW THE SAME DRIVE SHAFT RIGHT. CAN YOU GIMME EXACT BRAND NAME THA SHAFT AND WHERE YOU GET IT. I WAS LOOKING FOR EBAY PLEASE CAN YOU GIVE ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE DRIVESHAFT PARTS. PLS
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
on line these are availible for around 300 buck,, my dealer wanted 1200 what a great vid, thanks
Great video… my transfer case drive shaft seal is leaking, so this video really helps. Thx … btw I like your choice of energy drink😎
Do not follow these instructions when installing the two hanger bearings. The washers go in between the bracket and frame. They are there to keep the axle in good alignment. Watch another video to see proper installation. Gong show is right!
Just found this great video.
Thanks from Pat's driveline
Have an '07 and having same vibration problem, pretty sure it is the shaft as have had the same u-joint on it replaced twice and it still shakes. Never considered the CV joint as the problem but very well could be apparently!
Good luck let us know how it goes
Torque specs from the OEM manual: Rear diff is 54 ft-lbs (74nm), two center supports are 27 ft-lbs (37nm), and the center bolts (6 bolts) are 20 ft-lbs (27nm). Make sure the two front diff joints match the same orientation as the rear diff joint. Check for shaft straightnes (level) front to the back and remove the shim washers as necessary. If the rear end is sagging due to age, it may cause the shaft to come out of alignment and you don't need the shims. Joint angle for the front joint and the rear joint must be within 1.5 to 2.8 degrees, i.e. almost perfectly straight to your eye. Enjoy!
Wow great info once again thanks you took it to the next level perfect that's the specs I was missing!
Great video, would like to see, after drive shaft installed, what kind? and how to add the fluid, (can't run dry)
Thanks for this one too
Your welcome my friend! Good luck!
damn Canadians... Ha! Thanks for the no-BS video - exactly what I needed!
Thanks for the video I have to fix my dad in law 03 highlander.
Those replacing a driveshaft on a Toyota Sienna AWD require all wheels to jacked up to be able to rotate driveshaft to remove screws ?
Thanks
You don't have the spacers in the right position. There are two sets of spacers.
That go between the carrier bearings and the body. The carrier bearings don't bolt flush to the body. The short spacers go between the rear carrier bearing and body, and the thicker spacers (3:27) go between the front carrier bearing, and the body. Not as a thick washer for the bolt. This will put the correct angles in place, to prevent premature wear and tear on the universal joints
Thank you so much for the guidance, I hope you will be able to get back to me. After installation and taking it for a ride and then inspecting it. The part where you said lubricate the shaft before inserting to not damage the seal. My driveshaft at that part is rubbing in the inside and making a grinding noise. Its so weird do you have an idea on why it would do that? thank you!
Great video guys. I might have the same issue but not sure how to check if the U joints are shot. Is there a trick to determining they are shot without taking the shaft off?
Those washers are supposed to sit on top of the center bearing not the bottom but great video.
Thanks very much will check 8nto it its been years but I will let the guy who bought it know! Thanks again
Where did you purchase the new drive shaft? What was the cost?Thanks for the two videos - 1,Removal, 2. Replace This is exactly the problem I have with my 2003 Highlander. Only 100,000 mile - should be barely broken in. Maybe the salty road in New Hampshire are a factor.
David Frost Hey David thanks for commenting. I bought it at pats driveline In Vancouver B.C. they sent by Courier the next day and it was proximately 6 to $700 service was great everything was there made the task very easy hope this was a help
Bought mine from Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSL3WP5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . $445, free shipping. Having some whistling from the driveshaft at 40-55mph, but working to see if the center bearings need to be adjusted. Was quoted $1400 from a local shop to R&R!
coffeecup1234 good luck thanks for sharing.please let us know how it goes and how the quality is. Thanks again for helping others by sharing!! U tube needs more team players like you.
David Frost bought mine at pats driveline In Vancouver they were awesome sent to my door I think it was 800 all in
The OEM manual actually has the full overhaul procedure, but of course has special tooling. Still can't beat the price to do it yourself!
can this driven without the drive shaft installed? basically switching from AWD to FWD.
Have you ever heard of anyone permanently removing the rear drive shaft and just going full time front wheel drive?
I wouldnt the transfer case needs that if not ...you can create problems
I have an AWD sienna with same issue, did the vibration shudder stop when he left off the gas, mine starts at 40 MPH. I'm about 99% sure I have a carrier bearing out on the shaft, or probably a U joint. If I remove shaft can I drive it in 2wd to confirm it's the issue?
Ya totally but I made sure it was the driveshaft first
Hi... is it true that for the 2003 Highlander, you can't get a drive shaft repair kit for the original drive shaft?
Yep it was major bucks then contact pats driveline they ship anywhere service was great and.......superior parts by a long shot tell them you saw the vid on gongshowgarage
It was way cheaper from pats driveline
Great … thanks!
do you have vibration why you change it?
need you to put in the exhaust in my car bud
Having the same issue thanks,
Good luck let us know how it goes!
Tried to do it this last weekend but I came across very rusted out bolts and the weather didn’t help ether, just ordered new bolts just in case..🙏
So I did this but I noticed that my car now having a vibration 60 an up, I wonder if the drive shaft I bought is not balanced properly!! Any suggestions?
THANK YOU ......Hopefully you have it in straight but check and see if you feel in you seat of you pants or the steering wheel that could be Wheel balance or front end issues good luck
How long of a job was it?
About 2 to.3 hours with beer! Lol
Have the seal that goes into crankcase that is leaking. Replaced 2 times. Any ideas.
If you mean the differential, have the breather plug cleaned or replaced (if your model has a breather plug).
I have an 06 highlander limited and the universal is definitely bad, but in addition to vibration which just started every time the car shifts from 1st to 2nd (automatic) it noticeably jumps a couple of inches to the left then back within a split second. Its been doing this for several weeks and haven't found anyone that knows why. Could this drive shaft being bad cause this? Its not pulling to the left as it would for a low tire, etc. it physically moves to the left then back. It has 240,000 miles on it and I don't want to sink a ton of money in it if it's transmission or rear end. Rear end was low and I changed the gear oil and crush washer. Very light metallic particles on the magnet, but no more than I would expect for that mileage. Thanks
Beening honest with ya I dont think that alone would cuase it but the shift vibrations sounds right I would also check CV shafts ....good luck let us know how it goes !
@@GongshowGarage Thanks for responding. I spent a couple of hours under it last night looking at the suspension and cv joints. Boots are all good and no sign of cracking. I couldn't find any play in the suspension either. Have a friend that works for AAMCO and he said he didn't think it was transmission.
SIR. I HAVE LEXUS RX 300 AWD. JUST NEED TO KNOW THE SAME DRIVE SHAFT RIGHT. CAN YOU GIMME EXACT BRAND NAME THA SHAFT AND WHERE YOU GET IT. I WAS LOOKING FOR EBAY PLEASE CAN YOU GIVE ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE DRIVESHAFT PARTS. PLS
Look at Pat's driveline they ship any where and they are great tell them gongshowgarage sent ya!
Does the car move if it is removed?
Yes it will chuck the wheels!