Thank you. The driver’s side axle on my daughter’s highlander gave out today and your video gave me the knowledge and courage to do it myself. Got it done in about 1.5 hours.
About to go pickup my replacement cv axle for my Highlander now after mine had complete and absolute failure (even preventing the car from moving or going into park) and I cannot tell you have appreciative I am that this video not only exists, but is step by step and to the point to the extent of even listing the socket sizes I'll need which is beyond helpful considering I'm getting one ride to the part's store by a friend who can't come back today, and I'll know exactly what I'll need.
Started with ball joints , then moves to lower control arms . And here we are . This video helped me seal the deal and figure out why a few things were not fixing correctly. After loosening a few thing it all fit. Thanks again for a video that explains everything in a way that I could understand. And the camera angels were actually helpful. Thanks again . Took me about an hour to get the axle out and back in . Thanks again .
Nice video. Well done. Only thing I might have done differently working at home is make sure I could get the axle nut off and the axle loose in the hub before taking anything else off
Great walkthrough which was very helpful. I did the same on my 08 Highlander and everything was pretty much the same. Thanks for the well edited, quick enough pace video!
Great video Steve. Interesting way of doing that job, I've never taken the strut out to do that job before. I guess that just gives you more room. Thank you for sharing.
I did the driver side axle on my highlander and replaced it with a duralast from AutoZone, but a few seconds after I turn engine on it starts leaking from the seal. Any suggestions ?
Grab the axle by the inside end and see if it moves in or out. It should be locked in place by the ring on the splined shaft of the axle. If not, gently pound the other end of the axle until it locks in. (It needs to be un-bolted and removed from the knuckle first) If that isn’t it, remove the axle and carefully compare it to your old one. It needs to match exactly or it won’t work. Lastly, you could just have a torn seal. Have a good look at it; if it’s dry, cracked, or torn, replace it.
Hello, not sure if you’ll respond but not sure if my axle on the driver side is bad. I was replacing my control arms and engine mounts but when I tried putting the wheel hub to the spring assembly, the axle seems stuck and I can’t seem to get the two spring bolts to line up at all. The wheel hub will not move inward. It’s a 2006 Toyota Highlander hybrid 4wdi. Also my axle is leaking from the inner joint.
If the CV is leaking, it should be repaired; but it’s probably not your problem. The way I line up the holes is use a long pick (or screwdriver). You can get it in the holes at an angle, then use leverage to pull the two together. It may help to put a jack under the control arm to hold it up a bit. I hope this helps.
Hi Steve. Great video !! You mentioned that you had just changed the transmission on that Toyota. My wife has a 2004 Highlander and I might need to replace the transmission depending on further diagnostics, but can you tell me, if I need to swap the transmission, can I take out just the transmission by itself, or do I need to remove the engine with the transmission and then separate them when they are out of the car? Tha background is that the transfer case output shaft siezed, then the right rear axle snapped. I don't know yet if the transmission has been damaged, and probably won't know until I have replaced the transfer case. When I checked under the car I found the oil drain plug for the transfer case was less than tight. In fact it was not tight at all, it wobbled when I touched it. I could strangle the person did not do it up. Thanks again Mike
Wow Mike that super sucks. The bad news is that the engine, transmission, and transfer case stay attached to the sub frame and that whole assembly comes out the bottom of the car. So you need to lift the car off of the powertrain. Once out, the trans and engine are split, then the transfer case can be removed. It can’t be done in any other order, unfortunately.
@@ToolDemos Yeah. It's a pain alright. Can you direct me to any good guides on the steps to remove the engine/transaxle? I'm brave, but it looks a little more complex than removing the engine from a Kombi or Beetle, which I am used to and could do in 20 minutes. And a correction too. It was the oil filler plug that was loose, not the drain plug, which explains why i) It took a couple of years for all the oil to drain out and the drive shaft to seize, and ii) why I did not ever see a patch of leaked oil under the car. I'm guessing that as my wife was driving around oil would get splashed up and over the fill plug and eventually it all leaked out, but it leaked out only as she was driving, hence no oily patches on our driveway. Thanks Mike
@@michaelwalsh864 That’s so terrible, such a simple mistake lead to such a catastrophic end. I used Mitchel for service information when I was repairing this car and there really isn’t a good step-by-step procedure for removing the drivetrain. It does give you diagrams and procedures for each component like the exhaust, but that’s about it. If you go to an auto parts store have a look at their Chilton or Haynes manuals. Those are usually better at giving you a step-by-step procedure for doing things like that. If you have any specific questions once you get into it and you need some help, just ask and I’ll answer your question the best I can.
Hi Steve, now I have a question. I have the engine/transaxle/subframe nearly ready to come out but I need to get the main wiring harness (that comes from the PCM - Powertrain Control Module) disconnected. And to help me, I now have a Haynes manual - the bundle of online manual and paperback book. The harness in question goes from the PCM, which, I am led to believe, is in the cabin behind the glove box, through the firewall bulkhead (near the top on the passenger side) to a main bundle-in-a-box, which is clipped just above the timing chain cover. From there the harness branches out and divides many times and goes to various components on the engine, or the transaxle, or the exhaust system via the sub-frame. Haynes recommends I work my way along the harness and disconnect every branch that connects to anything on the engine or transaxle or (eventually) the fuse box on the opposite side of the engine bay. However. I'm wondering if it would be feasible to work on the PCM end instead. Specifically to get behind the glovebox and disconnect the 4 or 5 or 6 plugs from the PCM and then feed them out through firewall bulkhead, and thereby leave all the other ends of the harness connected to the engine so that the harness comes out with the engine. Do you have any idea if such an approach is possible? Thanks Mike
@@michaelwalsh864 Yes, absolutely that is the easiest way to do it. It’s how I disconnected the drive train. Disconnect and remove the battery first. The PCM is in the passenger foot well and has two fasteners connecting the bracket to the floor. Remove those to get the PCM loose and it will make it easier to disconnect all of the connectors. Go to the firewall and remove the two nuts holding the rubber gasket then you can carefully pull the harness through. You’ll need to kinda push it around the HVAC box to free it up. Lay that end of the harness on top of the engine and then go to the fuse box and remove the power wire. It’s under the red cover. On the front of the fuse box are a couple of connectors, disconnect those. Then separate the battery terminal cable on the positive side. Lay all of that onto the transmission. The only other connections are a couple of ground cables that are bolted to the body. Good luck and have fun.
I like your channel on my 2013 highlander to take the star shape nut off you said use a 30 mm mine won't go on all the way did they make the star nut in a 31 mm
The OE nut is a 30mm 12 point. Make sure your socket is a 12 point, a regular 6 point won’t work. Some after-market axles use a 32mm nut, yours could be a replacement axle.
Having difficulty on passenger side axle install. It is a direct replacement aftermarket from GSP, problem is it wont go in all the way. retaining clip have been destroyed twice trying and also 2 seals. Right now going to get some more rings ordered to the dealer and one more seal. I had a seal instralled in the transmission case few months ago but by the time trying to re install the axle realized this is the wrong seal, so out it came and installed a Duralast seal from autozone; this seal is ok as far as diameter but it slides in pass the edge of the case which confuses me. I went to transmission shops to ask questions and also the dealer, they told me as long as it seals its position in relation to the trans bell housing no matter, dealer said to get it flush with the edge of bell instead of driving it all the way to the back but the OEM seal itself has a rather extended rubber lip; seems as it is designed to seat flushed against the deep end of the hole rather than flush with the edge so I am STILL confused; I was coached how to rotate the shaft to make the ring click in place; I had resorted to hammering with a 2,4,6 pounds mini sldge hammers and a piece of 2x4 and I was lucky I did not break the axle; I am told it should go in with few taps with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer which initially I tried without any luck. The driver side I had no issues and it is in. It is just my luck that the passenger side is hanging me dry still. This is the very last bit of difficult job that stands between the car being completed; after the wheels are back I only need to install radiator, condenser and fan. Then front bumper and lights, then all fluids, prime, spark plugs and coils and turn the key.....will it ever gets done?? I am so close and yet!
Wow, so close to the finish line. You’ve been getting good advise - that axle should go in with a few taps. Might be a bad axle, or some internal damage.
Thank you. The driver’s side axle on my daughter’s highlander gave out today and your video gave me the knowledge and courage to do it myself. Got it done in about 1.5 hours.
Good job! I’m glad it all worked out.
@@fabiendass166 There was no special position, it just took a bit of persuasion to get it to seat.
About to go pickup my replacement cv axle for my Highlander now after mine had complete and absolute failure (even preventing the car from moving or going into park) and I cannot tell you have appreciative I am that this video not only exists, but is step by step and to the point to the extent of even listing the socket sizes I'll need which is beyond helpful considering I'm getting one ride to the part's store by a friend who can't come back today, and I'll know exactly what I'll need.
You got this!
Started with ball joints , then moves to lower control arms . And here we are . This video helped me seal the deal and figure out why a few things were not fixing correctly. After loosening a few thing it all fit. Thanks again for a video that explains everything in a way that I could understand. And the camera angels were actually helpful. Thanks again . Took me about an hour to get the axle out and back in . Thanks again .
That’s awesome! Glad it was helpful.
Nice video. Well done. Only thing I might have done differently working at home is make sure I could get the axle nut off and the axle loose in the hub before taking anything else off
Thanks. Good ideas.
Holy cow many congratulations on the huge boost and welcome to all your new subs!! Great video those can be tricky with those retainer rings!!
Thanks CP, I really appreciate that.
I found this video the best ive seen on TH-cam for this automobiles axle
Straight to the point no long history lecture 👌
Awesome! Thank you.
Great walkthrough which was very helpful. I did the same on my 08 Highlander and everything was pretty much the same. Thanks for the well edited, quick enough pace video!
Glad it was helpful.
Great video Steve. Interesting way of doing that job, I've never taken the strut out to do that job before. I guess that just gives you more room. Thank you for sharing.
Yeah it does give me more room, it’s only three bolts. But it was also part of a transmission swap so I wanted to take them out anyway.
no one has. way too much extra work
@@jasonsims007 do I need to even remove those two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle?
@@rodddanpour3687 no you do not need to remove the strut. Plenty of room while its in
Excellent tutorial. Feeling good about getting it done now.
Rock on!
Thank you!! Very detailed and clean!!!
Glad it helps.
I did the driver side axle on my highlander and replaced it with a duralast from AutoZone, but a few seconds after I turn engine on it starts leaking from the seal. Any suggestions ?
Grab the axle by the inside end and see if it moves in or out. It should be locked in place by the ring on the splined shaft of the axle. If not, gently pound the other end of the axle until it locks in. (It needs to be un-bolted and removed from the knuckle first)
If that isn’t it, remove the axle and carefully compare it to your old one. It needs to match exactly or it won’t work.
Lastly, you could just have a torn seal. Have a good look at it; if it’s dry, cracked, or torn, replace it.
Hello, not sure if you’ll respond but not sure if my axle on the driver side is bad. I was replacing my control arms and engine mounts but when I tried putting the wheel hub to the spring assembly, the axle seems stuck and I can’t seem to get the two spring bolts to line up at all. The wheel hub will not move inward. It’s a 2006 Toyota Highlander hybrid 4wdi. Also my axle is leaking from the inner joint.
If the CV is leaking, it should be repaired; but it’s probably not your problem. The way I line up the holes is use a long pick (or screwdriver). You can get it in the holes at an angle, then use leverage to pull the two together. It may help to put a jack under the control arm to hold it up a bit. I hope this helps.
@@ToolDemos thanks. I’ve tried everything. Bought a new cv axle. I could only get one hold to line up. The passenger side was easier
Thank you very much brother
Any time
Hi Steve. Great video !!
You mentioned that you had just changed the transmission on that Toyota.
My wife has a 2004 Highlander and I might need to replace the transmission depending on further diagnostics, but can you tell me, if I need to swap the transmission, can I take out just the transmission by itself, or do I need to remove the engine with the transmission and then separate them when they are out of the car?
Tha background is that the transfer case output shaft siezed, then the right rear axle snapped. I don't know yet if the transmission has been damaged, and probably won't know until I have replaced the transfer case.
When I checked under the car I found the oil drain plug for the transfer case was less than tight. In fact it was not tight at all, it wobbled when I touched it. I could strangle the person did not do it up.
Thanks again
Mike
Wow Mike that super sucks. The bad news is that the engine, transmission, and transfer case stay attached to the sub frame and that whole assembly comes out the bottom of the car. So you need to lift the car off of the powertrain. Once out, the trans and engine are split, then the transfer case can be removed.
It can’t be done in any other order, unfortunately.
@@ToolDemos Yeah. It's a pain alright.
Can you direct me to any good guides on the steps to remove the engine/transaxle? I'm brave, but it looks a little more complex than removing the engine from a Kombi or Beetle, which I am used to and could do in 20 minutes.
And a correction too. It was the oil filler plug that was loose, not the drain plug, which explains why i) It took a couple of years for all the oil to drain out and the drive shaft to seize, and ii) why I did not ever see a patch of leaked oil under the car. I'm guessing that as my wife was driving around oil would get splashed up and over the fill plug and eventually it all leaked out, but it leaked out only as she was driving, hence no oily patches on our driveway.
Thanks
Mike
@@michaelwalsh864 That’s so terrible, such a simple mistake lead to such a catastrophic end. I used Mitchel for service information when I was repairing this car and there really isn’t a good step-by-step procedure for removing the drivetrain. It does give you diagrams and procedures for each component like the exhaust, but that’s about it. If you go to an auto parts store have a look at their Chilton or Haynes manuals. Those are usually better at giving you a step-by-step procedure for doing things like that. If you have any specific questions once you get into it and you need some help, just ask and I’ll answer your question the best I can.
Hi Steve, now I have a question.
I have the engine/transaxle/subframe nearly ready to come out but I need to get the main wiring harness (that comes from the PCM - Powertrain Control Module) disconnected.
And to help me, I now have a Haynes manual - the bundle of online manual and paperback book.
The harness in question goes from the PCM, which, I am led to believe, is in the cabin behind the glove box, through the firewall bulkhead (near the top on the passenger side) to a main bundle-in-a-box, which is clipped just above the timing chain cover. From there the harness branches out and divides many times and goes to various components on the engine, or the transaxle, or the exhaust system via the sub-frame.
Haynes recommends I work my way along the harness and disconnect every branch that connects to anything on the engine or transaxle or (eventually) the fuse box on the opposite side of the engine bay.
However. I'm wondering if it would be feasible to work on the PCM end instead. Specifically to get behind the glovebox and disconnect the 4 or 5 or 6 plugs from the PCM and then feed them out through firewall bulkhead, and thereby leave all the other ends of the harness connected to the engine so that the harness comes out with the engine.
Do you have any idea if such an approach is possible?
Thanks
Mike
@@michaelwalsh864 Yes, absolutely that is the easiest way to do it. It’s how I disconnected the drive train.
Disconnect and remove the battery first. The PCM is in the passenger foot well and has two fasteners connecting the bracket to the floor. Remove those to get the PCM loose and it will make it easier to disconnect all of the connectors. Go to the firewall and remove the two nuts holding the rubber gasket then you can carefully pull the harness through. You’ll need to kinda push it around the HVAC box to free it up.
Lay that end of the harness on top of the engine and then go to the fuse box and remove the power wire. It’s under the red cover. On the front of the fuse box are a couple of connectors, disconnect those. Then separate the battery terminal cable on the positive side. Lay all of that onto the transmission.
The only other connections are a couple of ground cables that are bolted to the body.
Good luck and have fun.
Thank you Sir. Can you show me PCV valve for 1MZ-EF toyota highlander
Its on the top/ rear side of the engine on the passenger side. Super easy to reach
How different for this with a Hybrid?
I cant get the bottom strut bolt off. any suggestions?
I would use a torch to heat up the nut, then spin it off.
I like your channel on my 2013 highlander to take the star shape nut off you said use a 30 mm mine won't go on all the way did they make the star nut in a 31 mm
The OE nut is a 30mm 12 point. Make sure your socket is a 12 point, a regular 6 point won’t work. Some after-market axles use a 32mm nut, yours could be a replacement axle.
Thank you much appreciated
Thanks for your video
Glad it was helpful.
Can you replace Toyota Highlander spark plug
Yes. Here’s my video for it: th-cam.com/video/DM8tDHqHsTA/w-d-xo.html
Great video , what year was that highlander ?
Thanks. It’s a 2003.
I like how you only did the easy side
Having difficulty on passenger side axle install. It is a direct replacement aftermarket from GSP, problem is it wont go in all the way. retaining clip have been destroyed twice trying and also 2 seals. Right now going to get some more rings ordered to the dealer and one more seal. I had a seal instralled in the transmission case few months ago but by the time trying to re install the axle realized this is the wrong seal, so out it came and installed a Duralast seal from autozone; this seal is ok as far as diameter but it slides in pass the edge of the case which confuses me. I went to transmission shops to ask questions and also the dealer, they told me as long as it seals its position in relation to the trans bell housing no matter, dealer said to get it flush with the edge of bell instead of driving it all the way to the back but the OEM seal itself has a rather extended rubber lip; seems as it is designed to seat flushed against the deep end of the hole rather than flush with the edge so I am STILL confused; I was coached how to rotate the shaft to make the ring click in place; I had resorted to hammering with a 2,4,6 pounds mini sldge hammers and a piece of 2x4 and I was lucky I did not break the axle; I am told it should go in with few taps with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer which initially I tried without any luck. The driver side I had no issues and it is in. It is just my luck that the passenger side is hanging me dry still. This is the very last bit of difficult job that stands between the car being completed; after the wheels are back I only need to install radiator, condenser and fan. Then front bumper and lights, then all fluids, prime, spark plugs and coils and turn the key.....will it ever gets done?? I am so close and yet!
Wow, so close to the finish line. You’ve been getting good advise - that axle should go in with a few taps. Might be a bad axle, or some internal damage.
I couldn't even unstake the axle nut on my Matrix, couldn't find a punch or screwdriver small enough or strong enough
If you have a 1/2” impact, it can spin the nut even if it was staked. The nut will just be forced back into a round shape again.
My brother, I am from Syria, residing in Erbil. I work as a mechanic. How can I come to America to work there
America needs more good mechanics. I hope you’ll be able to do it.
it's worth it brother
swim if you must
How much would a mechanic charge for such a job for both sides?
This job pays 3.5 hours if you’re doing both sides. Guessing $180 labor rate (could way more or way less) that’d be $630 for labor.
Don't you replace the diff seals? Thats risky
@@JoeH-q1c I usually don’t. Sometimes they leak and I gotta do it again.
no need to install anew seal
Sorry I am asking is a new seal required
Nice video, thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks.
Great video... Thank you.
Glad you liked it, cheers!