We used these engines as stationary generator power in South Africa in the 80's, and I spent many happy hours overhauling these bad boys. Just love these big two-strokers. I recommend you fabricate yourself a swing bed engine stand for this engine, it is HEAVY, and makes life a whole lot easier to assemble again after.
Thank you Steve for entertaining with hidden reservoirs of oil and water, fasteners you can't find and your comments. I thoroughly enjoyed your learning curve.
He is a trooper, @3:26, Large bolts in the oil pan going up? Support bolts perhaps? Brrrap, argh, just as I thought it's a friggin drain plug as the oil gushes out was priceless.
When you first got this motor, I was scared she’d be too far gone to save. It’s super cool to see it getting refreshed, thanks for taking us along on the adventure.
the rod bearing is showing a strange ware that is more then just hours. time will tell as you get down in to it more. be sure to check the crank end play before you pull the caps. the thrust washer's can be ordered in several different sizes.
If you are planning on putting turbos on there you need to check and see if you can get cross head pistons, Do not put the stock pistons back in it you will burned it up, Back in the day I used to play with the V8, I built some nice 450 hp. to 500 hp., But that's where I learned I had to put cross head pistons They are a one piece piston Turbo pistons, And that is normal for the top bearing in a rod , It's pretty much normal on any engine even a gas engine , But after you said where the parts come from all of them parts are junk , Be safe Steve
Heavy duty engine stand would be great in this shop. You could swivel the motor around so you wouldn't have to be below it. Check tool rental places in your area. Meanwhile be careful not to tip it over on those jackstands. We don't want you to get hurt.
I think I would have the cherry picker chained up to block as a safety. Yes, it is harder to work on oil pan and underneath with cherry picker legs there, but it is so much safer.
Theoretically it'll run without the bearing cap because there is always downward force on the piston in a 2 stroke dd and that could explain the huge difference in bearing wear between the upper and and lower halves of the big end bearing.
If a Screaming Jimmy doesn’t have the shit run out of it the bearings will suffer. They cannot be lugged down low like a 4-stroke . Back in the day when transit buses and charter buses had 2-strokes the old dudes that knew how to drive would manually shift them if they had Allison automatics in them. They Allison would try to upshift them too early for the 2-stroke’s liking. The 92 Series would eat rod bearings real quick if they were lugged. Just about everything that you see built in America that’s over 40 years old was built with Detroit Diesel Power.
@@ko9446 He's just talking, I used to play with them V8s back in the day I'd have them things wound up 2600 On the tack You are right you drive them old 2 strokes just like you got your fingers slammed in the door
Wow Great Video Steve, I never saw anyone fully teardown a 12v71 GM before ...Diesels more Bolts and Good trick to get out the Sleeve/piston/rod assembly this content is Great Stuff 🇨🇦
You just clean up the original oil pump shims and reinstall them, Someone else has already done the calculating for you. Same way with the blower shims when you replace the bearings and seals, you just remove the blower gear, and fasten the shims onto the gear by tying them on the gear with a wire so that they won't get lost; When you reassemble the blower you reinstall the original shims, that way all the clearances will be perfect.
Totally correct. Keep everything together and a rebuild for those engines should be a piece of cake. From what I've read setting the rack can be a bit tricky depending on who's doing it. They will run without the main cap on as they're two stroke. I knew a guy that used to just swap the shells over when it came up for an in chassis.
very entertaining Mr. Teacher ( Mr. Feszchak) with the "quote" boys and girls is funny . Man Mathew is lucky to be around to see and help out on the rebuild and me hoping the engine wouldn't fall all the time your under it unbolting parts hard way of pulling parts off/disassembling the engine for rebuild i just don't like the jack stands holding the engine up that way
Have you decided on a truck for this engine yet, a Marmon 57 conventional or a Marmon 110 cabover would be perfect candidates for the 12v71. Marmon trucks were always known as the Rolls Royce of trucks. Those pistons are probably mahle brand , it was common for mahle to manufacture parts in Japan and I would say the quality is superior to oem detroit diesel.
It would make sense to have the accessory drive at the back of the engine if it goes into a cabover. But If the engine ends up going into a conventional, wouldn't having the accessory drive up front allow the back of the engine to fit further back, closer to the firewall and make the accessories much more accessible and easier to work on?
My solemn advice for this rebuild is find a specialist that rebuilds these often. There is a guy on a well known TH-cam channel that fixes these on passenger vehicles - he's NOT the guy you want. A normal shop simply doesn't have the tools or expertise to do this. Find a specialist even if it takes months.
that's a fairly common wear pattern for two strokes as the bottom half of the bearing receives very little load. even so you still caught it in time by the look of the top shells it wasn't long for this world
Awesome mate I’ve learnt something new today about the oil pump 👍 Your learning I’m still learning at 58 thanks for the lesson today I tell you what Matt’s going to get a work out when he has to do up all the main & Conrods bolts good chest and arm work out 💪 Bad enough doing a 8v92 Thank again mate 👍💯🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘
It is not like they could make an electric oil pump to run for a minute or two as the glow plugs are heating to get some oil flow before the engine starts moving. That is just crazy talk.
@@TheUserid82 it’s the extended cranking at extremely low temps(below zero ambient temperatures) that leads to wear of rod/main bearings over time. By extended cranking I am referring to cranking times in excess of one minute and many times more than two minutes. Their seems to be an opinion that a one or two second shot of either will wash all of the oil off of the cylinders resulting in premature piston or ring failure. Just the opinion of an old man rambling. Thank you for listening to my comment.
@@TheUserid82 It is not so much the cold start as the fact that they have to sit there and crank big R's out of the cold motor for show. You let the motor start, then only run enough throttle to keep the motor running. The revs put far more pressure on all bearing surfaces (Physics 101) when there is not a pressurized oil presences yet. A little care in operation proceedures can yield a longer service life.
@@ronfullerton3162 that's probably why in one of the videos of the driving channel his carrier's yard had signs to double-check to see if the vehicle was plugged in
@@대격변이퍽내가바로 That does really save the motor from the agony of cold starts. Everything is warm, and oil pressure comes right up while the engine is at the warm idle speed and running smooth. I do not know if they are still made, but some old drivers back in the day had propane block heaters. One driver told me that he would go out and start the heater when he got up in the morning. And by the time he had breakfast and had everything ready to go, the engine had enough heat to run. A big diesel started cold on one of our 0 degree F mornings sounds as if it will tear itself apart. I would rather not hear that sound.
When it comes to specifics on a motor there is no guessing I guess You do not guess you have to be right you're either right or you're wrong it's wrong and it's gonna go wrong big time
For the king motor... still think you need the ultimate view of the road up top of the castle with lets call it the ultimate Freightliner or K-100 [already got a Pete]. Go with air ride front to back, double frame for the mighty V12... custom paint, motorize the cab lift hydraulics, appropriate wheel base and at least a lift axle to drop and help the Tandem set for the heavy haul action when needed. Old cab with a big sleeper but modern everything else [but manual trans]. Can't be a proper truck unless the driver and the truck have to mesh and all that :-) Front brakes under a monster from the past. Early 70's Castle on the road. Is Matt ever going to get bit by the Trucker bug? I think he toys with the idea some. lol I can tell he's very proud of his Pops for sure.
I'm hoping Matt will stay out of trucking. I see a better future for him. I've been trucking 23 years. Only the last half of that was I ever reasonably happy with the money. It looks good now. But I'd hate to see him struggle as I did.
@@fsctruckshop6537 Ya as a Dad and Grandfather I see the logic. You telling him the reality of it all would clear things up for him a lot. He'd really have to want to do it to get into it after that [makes sense].
Are you seeing any signs it was repainted to help sell it as you strip more parts off or is it looking more like that was the right color for the machine it was said to of been pulled from?
I think he seen it for sale before a different color. I am thinking the guy he bought it from bought it then saw the cracked block and decided it wasnt for him so he painted it so he could sell it. But just a guess on my part.
So the verdict is that you shouldve just dropped it in and sent it. Ive seen bearings plenty worse. There were more miles in that than youll do. Oh well, an expensive lesson.
You will get a lot of advice, some.bad, I watched 3 first, now onto 1 and 2, one thing we all have happen is as soon as you are oil and grease to your shoulders why does your nose begin to itch, pull toy here 😀
Don't you just love those hiding bolts? that was a lot of water was that engine kept inside out of the cold ? guess if it had frozen and cracked it would have leaked out thru the crack just hope it's a good rebuildable engine . guess they used aftermarket parts when rebuilt with the tag but shouldn't have been hard parts to come by back in I think you said 79 but now might be a little hard to get parts from Detroit anyway but keep at it and don't pull that off those Jack Stands on top of your self stay safe
I didn't take "auto shop" in high school (last century) so this channel will be very interesting. Subscribing to boost your numbers until you hit a million subscribers ;-)
TOTALLY NORMAL WEAR. NEED TO CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K BECAUSE OF SO MUCH SOOT. BEARING REPLACEMENT AT 150 TO 200K IF THE MOTOR LAST THAT LONG. 2 STROKE = SHORT LIFE. THEY ARE HIGH MAINTENANCE. YOU MUST NOT SKIP ANY MAINTENANCE. THEY WONT LIVE LIKE A 4 STROKE.
I'm going to say each their own and God-bless you for all we have our own agendas we have our own prerogatives now I don't mean to be combative I don't mean to be a Dick it's gonna point several things out if you know how to mechanic things come with you pretty simple but if you don't know What you're working on you need to do some homework at least I would So I don't go goof trooping what I meand what I mean by that is breaking shit not knowing what I should mark to make sure it goes back into the right spot However it's not my build
Does Matthew have any intentions of becoming a truck driver? How old is he? That would make quite the ego boost! And then you could check every half an hour on him and the ride like a mobster 😎
Detroit engines always did puke oil. This one is still doing it and it ain't even running... Just kidding. Think you are doing a hell of a good job. Never seen an oil pan fight so hard to stay on.
no need to change the oil pump. go threw it make sure all of the ware points are good or rebuild it. put the different pickup tubes in it for the truck oil pain.
When You saw the word JAPAN you knew right there part's were going to be wore out. Anything with the words of CHINA and JAPAN the parts are going to be JUNK. Awesome video as always
1you aren't turbo charging that engine , with out changing rods . Wet blocks should have x head pistons, (rods bolt on to wrist pin) . Who ever sold you that engine , I don't think was a griend , un less he gave it to you.
Sorry cant watch the end of this rubbish you need to stick to the driving and leave this work to some that knows what they are doing. Why the checking was not done before any attempt to remove the sump i will never know. Aussie.
We used these engines as stationary generator power in South Africa in the 80's, and I spent many happy hours overhauling these bad boys. Just love these big two-strokers. I recommend you fabricate yourself a swing bed engine stand for this engine, it is HEAVY, and makes life a whole lot easier to assemble again after.
Great to see this engine get rebuilt. Keep it up.
Slow but steady.
Thank you Steve for entertaining with hidden reservoirs of oil and water, fasteners you can't find and your comments. I thoroughly enjoyed your learning curve.
He is a trooper, @3:26, Large bolts in the oil pan going up? Support bolts perhaps? Brrrap, argh, just as I thought it's a friggin drain plug as the oil gushes out was priceless.
When you first got this motor, I was scared she’d be too far gone to save. It’s super cool to see it getting refreshed, thanks for taking us along on the adventure.
Time will tell. I'll get one going.
truly a truly dangerous position to work
Been a Motörhead all my life. Changed out my first motor at 15. I’m 65 now. Really like your videos. Thank you!
the rod bearing is showing a strange ware that is more then just hours. time will tell as you get down in to it more.
be sure to check the crank end play before you pull the caps. the thrust washer's can be ordered in several different sizes.
If you are planning on putting turbos on there you need to check and see if you can get cross head pistons,
Do not put the stock pistons back in it you will burned it up,
Back in the day I used to play with the V8, I built some nice 450 hp. to 500 hp., But that's where I learned I had to put cross head pistons They are a one piece piston Turbo pistons, And that is normal for the top bearing in a rod , It's pretty much normal on any engine even a gas engine , But after you said where the parts come from all of them parts are junk ,
Be safe Steve
Interesting teardown so far Steve - you need a shop creeper to move around while under the block or working on Orwell. Cheers
Wow, wasn't expecting those bearings to look that bad. I guess it's good you are tearing it down.
Heavy duty engine stand would be great in this shop. You could swivel the motor around so you wouldn't have to be below it. Check tool rental places in your area. Meanwhile be careful not to tip it over on those jackstands. We don't want you to get hurt.
I think I would have the cherry picker chained up to block as a safety. Yes, it is harder to work on oil pan and underneath with cherry picker legs there, but it is so much safer.
Theoretically it'll run without the bearing cap because there is always downward force on the piston in a 2 stroke dd and that could explain the huge difference in bearing wear between the upper and and lower halves of the big end bearing.
The shims control the gear lash on the oil pump.
Love the sarcastic comments. You certainly are not an arrogant ass! ✌🏼
Agreed I'd rather be a wise ass than a dumb ass
If a Screaming Jimmy doesn’t have the shit run out of it the bearings will suffer. They cannot be lugged down low like a 4-stroke . Back in the day when transit buses and charter buses had 2-strokes the old dudes that knew how to drive would manually shift them if they had Allison automatics in them. They Allison would try to upshift them too early for the 2-stroke’s liking. The 92 Series would eat rod bearings real quick if they were lugged.
Just about everything that you see built in America that’s over 40 years old was built with Detroit Diesel Power.
Thinks the old wives tell. Slam your hand in the door so you drive it pissed off
@@ko9446 Beat me to it, lol.
@@ko9446 He's just talking,
I used to play with them V8s back in the day I'd have them things wound up 2600 On the tack You are right you drive them old 2 strokes just like you got your fingers slammed in the door
Wow Great Video Steve, I never saw anyone fully teardown a 12v71 GM before ...Diesels more Bolts and Good trick to get out the Sleeve/piston/rod assembly this content is Great Stuff 🇨🇦
You just clean up the original oil pump shims and reinstall them, Someone else has already done the calculating for you. Same way with the blower shims when you replace the bearings and seals, you just remove the blower gear, and fasten the shims onto the gear by tying them on the gear with a wire so that they won't get lost; When you reassemble the blower you reinstall the original shims, that way all the clearances will be perfect.
Totally correct. Keep everything together and a rebuild for those engines should be a piece of cake. From what I've read setting the rack can be a bit tricky depending on who's doing it. They will run without the main cap on as they're two stroke. I knew a guy that used to just swap the shells over when it came up for an in chassis.
very entertaining Mr. Teacher ( Mr. Feszchak) with the "quote" boys and girls is funny . Man Mathew is lucky to be around to see and help out on the rebuild and me hoping the engine wouldn't fall all the time your under it unbolting parts hard way of pulling parts off/disassembling the engine for rebuild i just don't like the jack stands holding the engine up that way
Look in the book that the guy sent you on how to disassemble the engine.
That upper oil pan weighs 110lbs, cast iron and brittle. Use ratchet straps to lowered it.
Good to see both are doing great good luck with the v12 see you soon
Have you decided on a truck for this engine yet, a Marmon 57 conventional or a Marmon 110 cabover would be perfect candidates for the 12v71. Marmon trucks were always known as the Rolls Royce of trucks.
Those pistons are probably mahle brand , it was common for mahle to manufacture parts in Japan and I would say the quality is superior to oem detroit diesel.
I completely forgot about the Marmons 😀 now i need to go and look at pics again.
Now I know where the red on the head came from😁
damn i know you needed matt help there..that Engine was troublesome for you to deal with but you got it done...😋
Hi Steve good show. Had a 318 Detroit in a seventy four cabover ford. Good engine.
The wear is mainly on the upper bearing because they take the force of the compression stroke, and power stroke.
Really like your videos man. Good attitude!!!!!
Loving these vids ,, And learning lots :-)
Great video Steve, can’t wait to hear her running! 🇬🇧👏🏻👍🏻
The oil just doesn't end!
It would make sense to have the accessory drive at the back of the engine if it goes into a cabover. But If the engine ends up going into a conventional, wouldn't having the accessory drive up front allow the back of the engine to fit further back, closer to the firewall and make the accessories much more accessible and easier to work on?
My solemn advice for this rebuild is find a specialist that rebuilds these often.
There is a guy on a well known TH-cam channel that fixes these on passenger vehicles - he's NOT the guy you want.
A normal shop simply doesn't have the tools or expertise to do this.
Find a specialist even if it takes months.
Yes!! This guy here has no clue, and he doing a video????
Good job showing and telling, see ya on the next one, have a good one.
that's a fairly common wear pattern for two strokes as the bottom half of the bearing receives very little load. even so you still caught it in time by the look of the top shells it wasn't long for this world
thats so cool you just dove off into it
Awesome mate I’ve learnt something new today about the oil pump 👍
Your learning I’m still learning at 58 thanks for the lesson today
I tell you what Matt’s going to get a work out when he has to do up all the main & Conrods bolts good chest and arm work out 💪
Bad enough doing a 8v92
Thank again mate 👍💯🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘
That fan in the background sounds like a diesel running at idle
Looks like you are enjoying yourself. Kudos to you.
cold starts eat bearings like that, when everyone makes a cold start video all i think is “well your destroying everything 🤷♂️ keeps me in business
It is not like they could make an electric oil pump to run for a minute or two as the glow plugs are heating to get some oil flow before the engine starts moving. That is just crazy talk.
@@TheUserid82 it’s the extended cranking at extremely low temps(below zero ambient temperatures) that leads to wear of rod/main bearings over time. By extended cranking I am referring to cranking times in excess of one minute and many times more than two minutes. Their seems to be an opinion that a one or two second shot of either will wash all of the oil off of the cylinders resulting in premature piston or ring failure. Just the opinion of an old man rambling. Thank you for listening to my comment.
@@TheUserid82 It is not so much the cold start as the fact that they have to sit there and crank big R's out of the cold motor for show. You let the motor start, then only run enough throttle to keep the motor running. The revs put far more pressure on all bearing surfaces (Physics 101) when there is not a pressurized oil presences yet. A little care in operation proceedures can yield a longer service life.
@@ronfullerton3162 that's probably why in one of the videos of the driving channel his carrier's yard had signs to double-check to see if the vehicle was plugged in
@@대격변이퍽내가바로 That does really save the motor from the agony of cold starts. Everything is warm, and oil pressure comes right up while the engine is at the warm idle speed and running smooth. I do not know if they are still made, but some old drivers back in the day had propane block heaters. One driver told me that he would go out and start the heater when he got up in the morning. And by the time he had breakfast and had everything ready to go, the engine had enough heat to run. A big diesel started cold on one of our 0 degree F mornings sounds as if it will tear itself apart. I would rather not hear that sound.
Is there any more content coming it's been a while I like seeing you drive and the truch shop content keep it coming 👍
Great videos
Any update on this? Block bad? Still gonna rebuild it?
When it comes to specifics on a motor there is no guessing I guess You do not guess you have to be right you're either right or you're wrong it's wrong and it's gonna go wrong big time
For the king motor... still think you need the ultimate view of the road up top of the castle with lets call it the ultimate Freightliner or K-100 [already got a Pete]. Go with air ride front to back, double frame for the mighty V12... custom paint, motorize the cab lift hydraulics, appropriate wheel base and at least a lift axle to drop and help the Tandem set for the heavy haul action when needed. Old cab with a big sleeper but modern everything else [but manual trans]. Can't be a proper truck unless the driver and the truck have to mesh and all that :-) Front brakes under a monster from the past. Early 70's Castle on the road. Is Matt ever going to get bit by the Trucker bug? I think he toys with the idea some. lol I can tell he's very proud of his Pops for sure.
I'm hoping Matt will stay out of trucking. I see a better future for him. I've been trucking 23 years. Only the last half of that was I ever reasonably happy with the money. It looks good now. But I'd hate to see him struggle as I did.
@@fsctruckshop6537 Ya as a Dad and Grandfather I see the logic. You telling him the reality of it all would clear things up for him a lot. He'd really have to want to do it to get into it after that [makes sense].
Are you seeing any signs it was repainted to help sell it as you strip more parts off or is it looking more like that was the right color for the machine it was said to of been pulled from?
I think he seen it for sale before a different color. I am thinking the guy he bought it from bought it then saw the cracked block and decided it wasnt for him so he painted it so he could sell it. But just a guess on my part.
Did you find any Spare "Parts" in Sump?
I would think that you need a crane and stand it on the flywheel end to work on it.
I was thinking the same....
So the verdict is that you shouldve just dropped it in and sent it. Ive seen bearings plenty worse. There were more miles in that than youll do. Oh well, an expensive lesson.
International Transtar or a 9370
The reason for eye protection
Hope those aren't Harbor Fright jack stands....
a lot of work there, Steve. Also great way to learn
What is the cylinder bank angle on the 12V71?
good luck dude
didn't you have a manual that would tell you this? just messing with you.
How much oil does that thing hold
Lol kitty litter should sponsor you.however buy a large cube of peatmoss works better goes long ways
A boys look like Ralph Macchio Karate Kid C'Mon Danielson pull the liners
Okay ! I see..... When all else fails......,
Read the book !
I'm seriously speaking respected sir you please join as a news reporter 🥰🤣
Much easier on a engine stand
I've noticed you don't use power tools very often
You will get a lot of advice, some.bad, I watched 3 first, now onto 1 and 2, one thing we all have happen is as soon as you are oil and grease to your shoulders why does your nose begin to itch, pull toy here 😀
You should use a kneeling pad or knee pads, sometime down the road your knees will thank you.
I'm still waiting to find out what's up with the cracked block
Don't you just love those hiding bolts? that was a lot of water was that engine kept inside out of the cold ? guess if it had frozen and cracked it would have leaked out thru the crack just hope it's a good rebuildable engine . guess they used aftermarket parts when rebuilt with the tag but shouldn't have been hard parts to come by back in I think you said 79 but now might be a little hard to get parts from Detroit anyway but keep at it and don't pull that off those Jack Stands on top of your self stay safe
Victory in Jesus Christ Lord and saviour
What is a jesus? Is it a spring clip that isn't made anymore that goes flying off that you then can't find?
I hope those jack stands are not Harbor Freight
Nope.
Lmfao !!👍😎.. good one Don.
I didn't take "auto shop" in high school (last century) so this channel will be very interesting. Subscribing to boost your numbers until you hit a million subscribers ;-)
Time to find a used forklift for sell .😁
Jackstands???? I would not want to get under there. Too many levers easy to trip.
I am enjoying your video's, but you'll save some headache if you'll RTFM!
The shells look like they are white metal
TOTALLY NORMAL WEAR. NEED TO CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K BECAUSE OF SO MUCH SOOT. BEARING REPLACEMENT AT 150 TO 200K IF THE MOTOR LAST THAT LONG. 2 STROKE = SHORT LIFE. THEY ARE HIGH MAINTENANCE. YOU MUST NOT SKIP ANY MAINTENANCE. THEY WONT LIVE LIKE A 4 STROKE.
I'm going to say each their own and God-bless you for all we have our own agendas we have our own prerogatives now I don't mean to be combative I don't mean to be a Dick it's gonna point several things out if you know how to mechanic things come with you pretty simple but if you don't know What you're working on you need to do some homework at least I would So I don't go goof trooping what I meand what I mean by that is breaking shit not knowing what I should mark to make sure it goes back into the right spot However it's not my build
Does Matthew have any intentions of becoming a truck driver? How old is he? That would make quite the ego boost! And then you could check every half an hour on him and the ride like a mobster 😎
You were sent a a complete mechanical book for just this engine perhaps you should Read it not just look at it.
You need a BIG Engine Stand Sure would make it easier to work on Great Video
Detroit engines always did puke oil. This one is still doing it and it ain't even running... Just kidding. Think you are doing a hell of a good job. Never seen an oil pan fight so hard to stay on.
IF ONE OF THOSE STANDS WERE TO FAIL OR SLIP THE ENGINE WOULD FALL AND KILL YOU
If.
Brrrr Brrr Hello is that Mr Bus Grease Monkey ive a 12v 71 Help!!! lol
no need to change the oil pump. go threw it make sure all of the ware points are good or rebuild it.
put the different pickup tubes in it for the truck oil pain.
Do yourself a favor and use knee protection.
When You saw the word JAPAN you knew right there part's were going to be wore out. Anything with the words of CHINA and JAPAN the parts are going to be JUNK. Awesome video as always
JUST STOP!!!!!!!
Whole lot of mouth breathing
1you aren't turbo charging that engine , with out changing rods . Wet blocks should have x head pistons, (rods bolt on to wrist pin) . Who ever sold you that engine , I don't think was a griend , un less he gave it to you.
Sorry cant watch the end of this rubbish you need to stick to the driving and leave this work to some that knows what they are doing. Why the checking was not done before any attempt to remove the sump i will never know. Aussie.
Ok Boys and Girls, can you be anymore disrespectful to your viewers?????
Sure I can. Ask my Sister.
@@fsctruckshop6537 Is your sister hot??
Victory in Jesus Christ Lord and saviour