Best video yet. Still drifting if I switch lanes it seams like the van want to keep going in that direction so I have to get ready to pull the other way quickly. I just got a new to me 1999 E150 conversion van. So far replaced the upper and lower ball joint. The n the entire all straring parts including tie rods. New tires and balances and wheel alignment. Also tighten the steering box and got rid of most of the steering wheel slop. But still seams to wonder switching lanes. I thinking something is getting stuck as you showed. I'm going to loosen all tie rod ball joints and tighten them to specs . Great and best video. Thanks you for you straight forward explanations.
The radius arm bushings may be going out, and loose. (The bushing mounted to arms in the frame) They rust out on the inside, as there is a metal sleave inside the bushings.
I went ahead and replaced them Sway bar bushings too.. If you can see air through them. They are wore out...I used a ball joint kit. Pressed them right out. Then put the new ones in the Freezer over night.. They slipped right in. I had to be fast. As they expand quick when you take them out..
By far the best ball joint replacement and detailed step by step tutorial! Keep up the great video! Especially on a 1997 Ford E-150 4.6l conversion van. That's what I have been bonding with for 2yrs now. I've converted the van into a simple home/motorcycle van so I can travel when free, ride/race, and have my tools with me. The sportbike sits inside(track days) on the passenger side, bed, tool box is on the drivers side and the dirt bike is on a tow hitch carrier at all times. Hooking up lens in solar and a maxxair deluxe 7000k fan soon and also needing spark plugs replaced.
Thanks, Auto Dr diy! I got stuck on this project yesterday, so i rewatched your video, and that pickle fork trick at 9:15 got it loose! I had been hammering on that spot, like the Ford official shop manual said, but the tension from the pickle fork is what it needed.
Thanks for the video, I have the same conversion van, color, stripping, high top and of course steering problem. I will be attempting this over the weekend, if you're not busy feel free to stop by and help.
I I have the same year model. My upper does not have that sleeve. It has an adjusting camber nut. You can turn it left or right moves the camber in or out. So if you have one of those. Mark it's location. It has to go back to the same spot to keep the alignment. Not sure how they C clip is the same part number. As the upper and lower are not the same size. As the lower takes a nut and pin. The upper does not. I also noticed when I changed my upper. It did not have a C-Clip. The Ford Factory replacement does have one now. The dust boots also have a flange on the upper side. Showing which way to face the boot. It didn't have a cut out. As I read the instructions in the box which way it points....
The sleeve is oem, because they come out of the factory typically, without needing to have the alignment adjusted. Since this one got an alignment after repairs, it now has the aftermarket adjusters in it to.
Hi, I have the same problem, I'm watching your video and putting so much attention, the sleves that you took off have the hole in the center, while the ones I remove is towards one side, I tried to adjisted and I have difficulty making it streight. What would you recommend me?
Every vehicle is different... your could be steering box .... this one was balljoints... my e350 was balljojnts and tie rods, also did wheel bearings same time
Best video yet. Still drifting if I switch lanes it seams like the van want to keep going in that direction so I have to get ready to pull the other way quickly.
I just got a new to me 1999 E150 conversion van. So far replaced the upper and lower ball joint. The n the entire all straring parts including tie rods. New tires and balances and wheel alignment.
Also tighten the steering box and got rid of most of the steering wheel slop. But still seams to wonder switching lanes. I thinking something is getting stuck as you showed. I'm going to loosen all tie rod ball joints and tighten them to specs . Great and best video. Thanks you for you straight forward explanations.
The radius arm bushings may be going out, and loose. (The bushing mounted to arms in the frame) They rust out on the inside, as there is a metal sleave inside the bushings.
I went ahead and replaced them Sway bar bushings too.. If you can see air through them. They are wore out...I used a ball joint kit. Pressed them right out. Then put the new ones in the Freezer over night.. They slipped right in. I had to be fast. As they expand quick when you take them out..
By far the best ball joint replacement and detailed step by step tutorial!
Keep up the great video!
Especially on a 1997 Ford E-150 4.6l conversion van. That's what I have been bonding with for 2yrs now. I've converted the van into a simple home/motorcycle van so I can travel when free, ride/race, and have my tools with me. The sportbike sits inside(track days) on the passenger side, bed, tool box is on the drivers side and the dirt bike is on a tow hitch carrier at all times.
Hooking up lens in solar and a maxxair deluxe 7000k fan soon and also needing spark plugs replaced.
Anthony Lacy. The plugs are easily accessed by removing the doghouse, from inside the van. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, Auto Dr diy! I got stuck on this project yesterday, so i rewatched your video, and that pickle fork trick at 9:15 got it loose! I had been hammering on that spot, like the Ford official shop manual said, but the tension from the pickle fork is what it needed.
mouse over video, and hit the white (I) to see the other 2 parts to video.
Thanks for the video, I have the same conversion van, color, stripping, high top and of course steering problem. I will be attempting this over the weekend, if you're not busy feel free to stop by and help.
Thanks for watching
Great video thanks!
+lcagee Thanks for watching
I I have the same year model. My upper does not have that sleeve. It has an adjusting camber nut. You can turn it left or right moves the camber in or out. So if you have one of those. Mark it's location. It has to go back to the same spot to keep the alignment.
Not sure how they C clip is the same part number. As the upper and lower are not the same size. As the lower takes a nut and pin. The upper does not. I also noticed when I changed my upper. It did not have a C-Clip. The Ford Factory replacement does have one now. The dust boots also have a flange on the upper side. Showing which way to face the boot. It didn't have a cut out. As I read the instructions in the box which way it points....
The sleeve is oem, because they come out of the factory typically, without needing to have the alignment adjusted. Since this one got an alignment after repairs, it now has the aftermarket adjusters in it to.
So they changed it out at the alignment shop. That makes since. As the factory has 6 different sleeves on their website.
Hi, I have the same problem, I'm watching your video and putting so much attention, the sleves that you took off have the hole in the center, while the ones I remove is towards one side, I tried to adjisted and I have difficulty making it streight.
What would you recommend me?
i was told steering column should be replaced for fixing wander
You mean gear box?
Every vehicle is different... your could be steering box .... this one was balljoints... my e350 was balljojnts and tie rods, also did wheel bearings same time
It's not the gear box.. They sell a U-Joint. Where the two shafts connect.. They do wear out...So you have check them as well...