Awesome video and thanks from my heart. Just used your ball joint video and now replacing the tie rods. Your video makes the job so much easier and is a helpful and welcome gift.
@@afmoneninenine it should work. I was kidding but do appreciate you Ernest supporting the channel. BTW that was my grandfather's first name.👍 www.paypal.com/paypalme/ozzstar
Yea Mr. Goodyear has a lot of "stories". Hadn't seen him in almost two years. He walked to my place, no car or drivers license. The fluorescent vest says it all. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars Less schwab wants $650 + to do this I just went to napa auto parts Got all 4 TIE ROD ENDS $297.00 PLUS A ALIGNMENT AFTER THE INSTALL (that's around $60.00 to $100.00 For ALIGNMENT) That's what I'm doing
Great job Glen! By the way, I took a look at my wife's 2016 Escape and saw that the Sync 3 system was at version 1.0 also. The procedure was a little different as I have navigation and all went well. Have a great weekend!
I like your chatter, I feel like I'm just hanging out with you watching you work. I'm going to do this on my '99 Ford e350 7.3L Ambulance I made into a camper. 🚑👍💯
Very nice. I'm having to replace my four ball joints and all the bushings plus my alignment thsi Friday because my 95 Ford E250 is way out of line and the steering is loose even at 1/2 of my brand new tires and had to swap em to the back with just enough thread ot get me by till I can buy new tires again.
thanks for sharing---- should you be able to move drag link by hand? i can grab drag link and rock it back and forth and it actually makes a thud metal to metal thud sound --- 95 e250 i am assuming it is worn out.
It would bug me if the steering wheel wasn’t straight...I need to do this to my old Fleetwood, have the new parts just no time to do it..always enjoy your Vlogs!
If the vehicle has the loose steering problem, is it generally necessary to replace all of the components as in this video, or could you get away with just replacing some of them? For example, does one component tend to wear out quicker than the others, or is it generally the case that they all wear out equally?
Most likely if you're doing the job yourself you might as well do all of it. You might have a decent joint on one side and a bad on the other side but if knes bad the others not far behind. These parts tend to have a domino effect.. if ya know what I mean. One goes, they all start getting extra wear from the bad part.
I have a question 🙋🏾♀️. We have a church van that was experiencing the death wobble u were saying in the video however now the tire rod end is in front sticking out on the driver side . Is this a simple replace the nut and pin or the entire tire ? I have pictures of that can help
@@ozzstars_cars oh ok in e450 transit buses at our fleet we have couple that have sloppy feel to them. When driving you can feel it in the steering. We’ve done bunch of alignments on this one where the ball joints and tie rod ends appear to be fine.
@@ozzstars_cars I'm seeing the NUT being used to HAMMER on, NOT the threads , Only this guy put the nut on backwards , like he said, it's all scrap Replace all 4 tie rod ends
I have a question I did my tire rods I replaced all the linkage except for the long arm when I make a turn I have to force it back to center it’s not returning by itself could I have over tighten the linkage
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks for getting back to me no the problem wasn’t there it seems to be loosening up since I’ve been driving it I need a wheel alignment
Are you using Moog parts? Are they a better choice than Motorcraft in your opinion? Trying to save some $$ and do this myself but don’t want to using sub par parts.
@@WHEREVER-I-ROAM Bad choice of words on my part, but when I replaced my tie rods I injected grease in each fitting, moved the joints around by hand, and made sure the boots were filled to the max while they were on the bench before I put the new ones in. Yes, lets go Brandon - wish he was already goine.
@@sdthyng - that would normally lead to a lot of squeezeout of grease, when you tighten down the nuts on the tapered shafts. As effective, and cleaner, to inject the grease after the parts are in place. Once a small amount of squeezeout is achieved, there is as much grease in there as it can hold.
@@ozzstars_cars Another fellow uses 'anti seize' from a tube on the inside holes on the knuckle assembly before inserting upper and lower ball joinmts, just thot it might be a good idea to put it in the holes whenm you put the tie rod pieces together. Another fellow puts lock tite on the bolts for the caliper bracket and the caliper as he is putting these back on the rotor, just thot it might be a good idea to put these on the tie rod bolts before putting the nuts on.
Can you do this without a jack? I would do this myself if I don't have to buy a jack and jack stands. Otherwise I will end up paying someone else to do it.
@@ozzstars_cars But seriously, I'm seeing torque specs all over the place. Seems like 55-75lbs seems the common spec. But is that just the tie rod nut. Or across the whole thing. Sleeves, centerlink nut, pitman bar nut.
Thank u for this video. Love the conversations with the neighbor at the end!
The guy is a character. 😁 Thanks
As always, clear and lucid explanations.
My comprehension has improved with age, I think. 😀 Thank you Dave.
Thank you. It's 2025 January 3rd. 11:26 pm and I have to do this tomorrow morning
Nicely done 👍 now you can perform in the van😎
Strobe lights and a mattress install next. Party time
Thanks Glen , I was able to do my ball joints and tie rods thanks to your help .
Great news Dan. I'm glad the video was useful to you! -Glen
Awesome video and thanks from my heart. Just used your ball joint video and now replacing the tie rods. Your video makes the job so much easier and is a helpful and welcome gift.
Great news Ernest! The tip jar is open.😁
@@ozzstars_cars Give me an email addy for paypal! I tried the website and it didn't go through.
@@afmoneninenine it should work. I was kidding but do appreciate you Ernest supporting the channel. BTW that was my grandfather's first name.👍 www.paypal.com/paypalme/ozzstar
Thanks for the video. With your help I just finished this job on my 99 E350 motorhome.
Good news!
That was very well explained keep up the good work thanks.
You got it Charles!
Good stuff brother! I’m doing this today. Well, tonight. Hope it goes as well as your job.
Gravy job. Good luck.
Very well done. Rather simple to do. Gotta do it on my 99 E250.
Thanks and good luck!
Looks like you did a great job and picked up a couple a good stories too.
Thanks, Mr Goodyear has lots of stories, most are make believe. 🤣🤭
That was a pretty straightforward one for once. Good deal! 👍👍
Mr. Goodyear was a riot! He must have a thick accent, because even I heard it. 😁
Yea Mr. Goodyear has a lot of "stories". Hadn't seen him in almost two years. He walked to my place, no car or drivers license. The fluorescent vest says it all. 😉
@@ozzstars_cars - It's always good to have unannounced entertainment in the shop. 👍🍻
My Ford Econoline have the same issue...I think I can do this...no, I know I can do this after watching this video! Thank for this awesome clip!
You're welcome
@@ozzstars_cars
Less schwab wants $650 + to do this
I just went to napa auto parts
Got all 4 TIE ROD ENDS
$297.00
PLUS A ALIGNMENT AFTER THE
INSTALL
(that's around $60.00 to $100.00
For ALIGNMENT)
That's what I'm doing
MR. Goodyear lol . enjoyed the repair
Let me tell you he is a character! 😀
Great job Glen! By the way, I took a look at my wife's 2016 Escape and saw that the Sync 3 system was at version 1.0 also. The procedure was a little different as I have navigation and all went well. Have a great weekend!
Version 3.0 should get you some bonus points with the wife. 👍
Pretty good video help a lot. Thank you.
Awesome!
I'm about to do mine and steering linkage on my van and this sure helps
Great job
Thanks Santa!
nice video, I'm planning to do the same process on my 77 f 100 thank you very much.
I like your chatter, I feel like I'm just hanging out with you watching you work. I'm going to do this on my '99 Ford e350 7.3L Ambulance I made into a camper. 🚑👍💯
Thanks for stopping by Christine. #vanlife
Very nice. I'm having to replace my four ball joints and all the bushings plus my alignment thsi Friday because my 95 Ford E250 is way out of line and the steering is loose even at 1/2 of my brand new tires and had to swap em to the back with just enough thread ot get me by till I can buy new tires again.
Nice job Glen . You swing that hammer pretty good. It is a pain in the rear end on the ground.
It sure is. I need to retire. 🤣🤣🤣
Great job 👍
Thanks Mitch
Thank you so much for this video, helped me out a lot.
Good news!
nice vid, clear and helpful tips.
Thank you
yep very informal and professional done work
Thank you Eric
Good install video glen
thanks for sharing---- should you be able to move drag link by hand? i can grab drag link and rock it back and forth and it actually makes a thud metal to metal thud sound --- 95 e250 i am assuming it is worn out.
@@Mark-d7j2v new joints in good condition are very difficult to move. How many miles on your ride?
@@ozzstars_cars 45,000 with a heavy truckmount carpet cleaner in it from day one back in 1995
Wow this is exactly what I needed. Thank you! On the off chance you read this, is is required to have passenger side wheel remove as you did?
Not necessary but makes life easier.
Milwaukee stubby impact with a nano socket might help next time in them tight spaces for the pitman arm
If Milwaukee sends me one for review I'll give it a go. 😁
Appreciate your help.
👍
Replacing this part will help my van from shaking when I got over 45mph is that correct? You make it look real easy! Great job!
There are a lot of components that can cause vibration. With bad tie rods the vehicle usually experiences loose, sloppy steering.
@@ozzstars_cars Ozzstar's Cars
Ozzstar's Cars
3 weeks ago
There are a lot of components that can cause vibration. bad tie rods are not one of them.
It would bug me if the steering wheel wasn’t straight...I need to do this to my old Fleetwood, have the new parts just no time to do it..always enjoy your Vlogs!
Thanks Terry. Get that Fleety cruising nice!
I think you should rename this channel the ozstarsvan channel 😜👍🏻
Yeah your not kidding. The popular #vanlife people in this country really like them.
thanks for the video.
You're welcome Eugene, thanks for the comment!
Thanks. My 2005 E-450 Superduty motorhome steering wheel gradually turned upside down. Could this be the idler arm or the control arm bushings?
I think you have something else going on but it's impossible to diagnose over the internet.
I like the video keep up the good work
Thanks David
You got your very own "Vinny" in your shop.
I'll plead the 5th on that one. :-)
If the vehicle has the loose steering problem, is it generally necessary to replace all of the components as in this video, or could you get away with just replacing some of them? For example, does one component tend to wear out quicker than the others, or is it generally the case that they all wear out equally?
Only a proper inspection can determine what components are worn out and need to be repaired.
Most likely if you're doing the job yourself you might as well do all of it. You might have a decent joint on one side and a bad on the other side but if knes bad the others not far behind. These parts tend to have a domino effect.. if ya know what I mean. One goes, they all start getting extra wear from the bad part.
@@billsauer3164 Thanks for the reply!
What is tque spec for what you did got a 98 I need to do that to. Do all you did in this video
Never anymore than 3 ugga duggas
great video
Thank you
I would make washers and spacers out of that scrap steel
I have a question 🙋🏾♀️. We have a church van that was experiencing the death wobble u were saying in the video however now the tire rod end is in front sticking out on the driver side . Is this a simple replace the nut and pin or the entire tire ? I have pictures of that can help
Hi was the tie rod bar included in that?
So when you say play left to right do you mean like the steering rattles in your hand while driving down the road?
@tylerhill6706 there is no rattling, sloppy feel, loose.
@@ozzstars_cars oh ok in e450 transit buses at our fleet we have couple that have sloppy feel to them. When driving you can feel it in the steering. We’ve done bunch of alignments on this one where the ball joints and tie rod ends appear to be fine.
@@tylerhill6706 worn out steering box. Some can be adjusted up to a point to help remove the slop.
Nice video! Thanks. Can i hammer it from the bottom of the bolt instead of hitting the side of it?
Hammer what exactly?
@@ozzstars_cars Tire rod end that you removed?
@@lonsomecrow you can but if it mushrooms out then it will need to be cut or torched off.
@@ozzstars_cars right. Thanks for all great videos !
@@ozzstars_cars
I'm seeing the NUT being used to HAMMER on, NOT the threads ,
Only this guy put the nut on backwards , like he said, it's all scrap
Replace all 4 tie rod ends
nice about to do this on my 249k e150
Should make a good difference after all those miles.
Link to a complete tie rod set you’d recommend? 1997 e150 4.6 V8 would like to get the exact one you got
Check for proper fitment.
left side
amzn.to/44snt2S
Right side amzn.to/3JNuFwE
I have a question I did my tire rods I replaced all the linkage except for the long arm when I make a turn I have to force it back to center it’s not returning by itself could I have over tighten the linkage
Anything is possible. Before the repair was that problem there?
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks for getting back to me no the problem wasn’t there it seems to be loosening up since I’ve been driving it I need a wheel alignment
Wnere did u buy the parts and what brand are they
I used Moog. Online search
I got detroit axle are they any good?
What is the torque setting for these nuts? I have e-250 year 2000 planning to order Moog assembly so probably don't need to grease it.:
Are you using Moog parts? Are they a better choice than Motorcraft in your opinion? Trying to save some $$ and do this myself but don’t want to using sub par parts.
Parts used should have a link in the description, yes Moog.
I’m wondering, do you also have a release to Pitman arm?
I don't understand your question. Can you be more specific?
I meant to say, replace the Pitman arm
@terrellscaife2411 yes if it worn out. I believe I have a video on that or the idler arm.
OK thanks
Where did you get your parts from? I have a 02 150. Thanks
Bought online, one of those rock places. ;-)
Seems to me just before putting these parts in would be a good time to pack them with hi temp grease, but why not?
Grease is added after installation. That should be clear in the video.
You PACK wheel bearings
YOU CAN'T PACK A BALLJOINT
COME ON MAN
LET'S GO BRANDON
@@WHEREVER-I-ROAM Bad choice of words on my part, but when I replaced my tie rods I injected grease in each fitting, moved the joints around by hand, and made sure the boots were filled to the max while they were on the bench before I put the new ones in. Yes, lets go Brandon - wish he was already goine.
@@sdthyng - that would normally lead to a lot of squeezeout of grease, when you tighten down the nuts on the tapered shafts. As effective, and cleaner, to inject the grease after the parts are in place. Once a small amount of squeezeout is achieved, there is as much grease in there as it can hold.
Would lock tite on bolt threads help, and how about anti seize inside knuckles?
Inside the knuckles? Not sure what you mean. I never use thread locker on tie rod ends.
@@ozzstars_cars Another fellow uses 'anti seize' from a tube on the inside holes on the knuckle assembly before inserting upper and lower ball joinmts, just thot it might be a good idea to put it in the holes whenm you put the tie rod pieces together. Another fellow puts lock tite on the bolts for the caliper bracket and the caliper as he is putting these back on the rotor, just thot it might be a good idea to put these on the tie rod bolts before putting the nuts on.
How do you do a self alignment. At home. No computers
String and a measuring tape.
How do you stop the threaded stud of the tie rod from free spinning when you are tightening the castle nut?
The stud should not spin at all. The more you tighten the nut the more the bolt gets wedged into the knuckle.
@@ozzstars_cars i put a clamp on it to get it started. Once it seated fully it was no problem. Thanks for the quick response.
Can you do this without a jack? I would do this myself if I don't have to buy a jack and jack stands. Otherwise I will end up paying someone else to do it.
I'm not that skinny so couldn't tell you.
@@ozzstars_cars Well I can get underneath no problem, wasn't sure if weight on the wheels would affect anything though lol 😂
Part numbers? LINKS?
where can i find the parts used in the video
there is no link
The part required would depend on the year, make model and 2wd or 4wd.
You can work in my van? is a Ford 250 I live in Seattle
parts list?? i cant find this anywhere`
You gotta look that stuff up bro.
Hey goodyear what up
I got the best Torque wrench made. German made... Good-N-Tight...
LOL!
Why not grease b4 you install?
That would become a mess in a hurry.
@@ozzstars_cars I see
Whats the part number?
That depends on the year make and model.
Do you have a set of ratchet wrenches? Not ratchets. Ratchet wrenches.
Yes I do. Bought a set about 20 years ago. They are a must!
It's called a castle nut bruh ?
Bruh, that clown totally disrupted the video. So what are the torque specs on the ends and the adjustment sleeve?
@@vanlivingjoe lol 3 ugga duggas
@@ozzstars_cars You got me!
@@ozzstars_cars But seriously, I'm seeing torque specs all over the place. Seems like 55-75lbs seems the common spec. But is that just the tie rod nut. Or across the whole thing. Sleeves, centerlink nut, pitman bar nut.