Have had my G1023RLW for going on 17 years. 3 hp. Never had a power problem. I build a lot of cabinets. If you have trouble with the wrenches, you are tightening the nut too tight. I use to be the set-up man besides cabinet builder at a cabinet shop. I added the 7’ rails to mine and built a router table into the very end. Added a lift. Use it all the time. Most convenient thing I’ve ever done. Over all I absolutely love my table saw. 17 years ago I paid $949.00 plus shipping, $78 I think.
Love my Grizzly I am using the open wrench to hold the spindle and the closed wrench to tighten the nut for the last five years without any issues. Much better than holding the blade on a Contractor Table Saw while tightening or loosening the Spindle Nut. 220V Power is awesome. I also like the weight. Mine is an upgrade from a 1980 Craftsman Contractors Saw. This Grizzly doesn't move when we push wood through. And the weight makes the router extension awesome too. Mine is replacing a home made router table mounted to a leg set that we had to continually tighten up and it would still move when you push work through the bit. We use the router all the time and leave it in the table saw. This week we're upgrading it to the Triton Router so we can change bits from above the table and deal with the bit's shaft length going through the cast iron extension. The cast iron router table extension was the least expensive way to get a great stable router. Its much easier and safer to work with a stationary machine that doesn't budge. Your results will get better too. The riving knife is a royal pain. We had to take it completely apart to figure out how best to adjust it. Plus it requires 1/8" thick blades so all of our old thin blades would not work. Once you set it up correctly though it works great. I have not had to adjust it again. While its a pain it works and we've only had to remove it when using a dado blade. My only complaint is the safety shield. The anti kickback pawls are attached to the blade cover and rides up and down with the blade. Its okay raising the blade but when you lower the blade the anti kickback pawls stick into the table and prohibit the blade from being lowered. We've removed the palls, then finally went to the riving knife and have never put the safety shield back in. The anti kickback pawls also left marks on most woods. On the contractor saw we only removed the safety shield when ripping a thin piece that would get stuck under the cover. (We used the contractor saw for over 30 years). We use Feather Pro featherboards on the table and the fence to help prevent kickback. Also use a MagSwitch featherboard when the work is too wide and covers up the miter slot that the Feather Pro attaches to. We built a jig using MagJigs to attach to the top of the fence to which we attach the Feather Pro Featherboard using a T-Slot on the jig. We can flip the jig to the other side and we use the fence and the jig with the router too. We try real hard to not change the angle of the blade from 90 degrees. And we always use the same fine tooth blade with our close clearance inserts and our cross miter sled. Another saw for angle cuts would be awesome if only we had the money and the room. For dust collection we've taped over the slot in the front for tilting the blade to reduce the amount of air coming into the case. We use a Central Machinery dust collector placed in another room and it does a great job. Eventually you do need to vacuum out the tablesaw and empty the dust collector bag. We've used a Saw Stop for our Robotics team. (Our master machinist still insist that our students may not use the tablesaw). Its a great saw too. It still requires featherboards, hold downs, push sticks, and a great deal of attention. The Saw Stop doesn't have as many blade options and its unclear if you can use your favorite blade. The work can't be wet or the brake will activate. You must deactivate the brake to test for wet wood or when cutting metal. I do not remember having an issue lowering the safety blade guard on the Saw Stop. (I'll have to check when we get back into the robotics shop). Be Safe: Use your featherboards. Do not set the featherboards to push stock against the blade. Use your blade guard or your riving knife. I use the top featherboard to remind me where the blade is. Always use your push sticks. Do not wear jewelry, loose clothing or long sleeves. Tie your hair back. Don't work while tired. Take breaks often. Take your time and never rush. And do not forget to wear a dust mask and hearing protection. Enjoy your Grizzly Table Saw.
This is my favorite comment every. Thank you so much for all the helpful tips and information about the table saw and the differences you have had in working with them. Cheers!
Really appreciate the 5-year-looking-back perspective. I’ve been waiting for this saw to go on sale (and as others have said, it’s a lot more expensive now). Also appreciate the other folks’ comments.
I have mainly Grizzly tools. I got the 10" sliding table saw, and it is so easy to use. Changing blades is a breeze as it opens up wide. It only takes a few minutes to go from a glue line rip cut to a crosscut to a dado stack etc. that I don't even think twice about doing it. With the regular tables saw that I replaced, it was a pain to change the blades.
I have had the G1023RL 3hp model for about a year now & the main issue I hate is the dust collection by far! It is not your slab, the saw just doesn't collect sawdust well. I don't mind the design & haven't had any problems with the wrench set. I tighten the spindle lock fairly tight & have no bending on the wrenches. Maybe they re-designed them in the last couple of years. Also, NO table saw has the safety features that SawStop has as it is patented technology but if you use a quality push block/stick and pay attention to what you are doing, anyone should be able to stay safe. Thanks for the vid, it's good to see the Grizzly still working great after 5 years!
This saw is actually $3,000 with shipping and sales tax, and that is at the current sale price (July 2022)! But it is a great saw and I love it! I also bent the flimsy wrench they gave me and have to use a piece of wood to hold the blade. Thanks for a good video and honesty!
Thanks for sharing. I wish I could add a note in the video that the price has gone up since I posted. Inflation is crazy when I look back. If you don't need a cabinet saw. SawStop just came out with a really affordable contractor table this past week. It is only $899 www.sawstop.com/product/compact-table-saw/
Ive had a Grizzly 1023RLW for a few years now, I think its amazing. from what I remember when I was researching saws years ago, is that the 1023 is an exact copy of an old Delta Unisaw (another amazing machine in its day), so the "technology" may be outdated. As far as dust collection, you don't have enough of it, You need something that moves more air. I have an Oneida Supercell and I rarely have dust anywhere. I know, the supercell is about the same price as the saw, but you get what you pay for. It's not a perfect saw but its was great for the cost, well at least it was when I bought mine new for $1500, its unfortunate they went up so much. all that being said, it seems the price gap between Grizzly and a Saw Stop is closing.
Your comparing a $1400 saw with a $5000 saw? I have a Grizzly G0696x which is a 5hp/220v/12". It's about $3500ish ans my father has the $5000 Sawstop. I've used both. Both are nice saws. The tools to change the blade on my machine probably weigh 3lbs each. They are monsters. The cabinet on my saw has an angle at the bottom to funnel the dust. Zero issues. I could be incorrect, but I'm not even sure you can get a Sawstop with a 12" blade. Personally, I wouldn't trade my father for his Sawstop. My Grizzly is a monster. Zero regrets. BTW, I have another $30,000 of Grizzly tools in my shop as well. The ONLY issues I've had with Grizzly is with their boxing/shipping. I've had several units come damaged but within a few days Grizzly has the damaged parts at my front door. To me, Saystops are like IPhone and Grizzly's are like tools.
I have used Grizzly tools in the past when I worked for large shop. They are pretty good. Not sure I would worry much about cheap tools. But dust collection is important. But again getting in the cleaning it out every couple of weeks is not that big of a deal. If the saw works well that is really important.
An addendum to my earlier comment. My saw is hooked up to a modified Harbor Freight dust collector and, while there is some dust in the bottom of the case, real accumulation has not been a problem.
@@HowYouCanMakeIt I used their 2hp collector. It sells for $299 but is on sale quite often. I replaced their 5 micron bag with a Powertec #70333, a 1 micron bag. (Powertec also carries the replacement bottom bags at a very reasonable price.) I also installed a Thien baffle to increase cyclonic collection. You can find instructions for this all over the internet. Run as short a run of 4" tubing as possible and add a zero clearance insert on the saw and you should be in business. There will still be sawdust in the cabinet, but not too bad. Whenever I get in the mood, I take my shop vac to it. This should solve most of your dust problems. Good luck with the saw.
I just purchased a grizzly G1023RLW it hasn't got here yet. I've been looking at reviews and I worked in a millwork shop for ten yrs. and I've used saws all my life and I've never seen one that no matter how good the bust collection is that you still have to clean bust out of it. I've used sawstop, powermatic and others and all kinds of dust collectors a d they all still have bust in the bottom
I've owned and refurbished Grizzly machinery since 1991. My fist machine was a Grizzly contractor table saw (not a cabinet saw). First, if the tools you got with them disappoint, you're not using them right. If you are bending ANY thin tool (and Grizzly's are better than most) YOU ARE TORQUING TOO HARD!!! The nut on the blade is self tightening, it gets TIGHTER with rotation, not looser, so you could literally tighten the nut by hand and it will work (don't). This is universal to all circular blade saws of ANY kind. The fence is a Beismeyer 'T-Square' fence. It's available anywhere and be fitted to just about any saw. Knowing the proper way to ADJUST that fence is the value of it. If you don't already know, learn. BTW, the VALUE of that router table option is being able to use that fence, not just as a straight edge but to MOUNT JIGS ON!! You see that flat top between the faces on the fence? Drill and tap 1/4"-20 holes in three spaced places and then you can mount jigs and sub fences to it. You'll never use a 'router table' again. It's called a DAY-do blade. The dust collection in the saw is designed (for cost reasons) so that the dust 'forms' it's own 'ramp'. Once it does, it does not 'fill' the cabinet beyond the outlet. This is a BUDGET machine, but it's a well made budget machine. OF COURSE the entire machine could be 'better', but from the looks I doubt you'll need anything like that. LEARN HOW TO SERVICE THIS MACHINE. That's more valuable than a Saw Stop. Your dust collector is marginal, at best. If you upgrade, get an overhead blade guard/dust extractor hood. It's worth it. Excelsior makes a good one that's a good value. It's also the BEST safety accessory you can buy. That said, buy the Grizzly until you use it SO much that you just can't function. It's NOT the machine, I used mine in an active woodworking business for 25 years before I bought a Grizzly G0493 14" sliding table saw that I rescued out of a hobbyists basement and rebuilt it. Grizzly is NOT 'made in America. 'Some' of their stuff is assembled here. That being said, they are an ISO 9001 company, their stuff is well made and there's a LOT of it out there, so you can find used machines fairly easily. I own a shaper and a sander from them as well, all purchased used.
I’ve heard a lot about SawStop for many years including how well made they are, how heavy and solid they are to handle the shock of the brake slamming down on the blade..BUT the SawStop unit that has the same specs as this Grizzly weighs 150 lbs less.
Well I have a 1023RLW now for about 5 years, never a problem and ran a lot of wood through it. I have been a woodworker for years with experience with high end tools far as I see you are trying to find something wrong with it. None of them are perfect
Thanks for posting this video. I recently bought a new Harvey 3hp table saw that I think is basically the same saw as this one. Do you notice a kind of bumping noise when you turn off the saw and then blade is almost at a stop? Almost like it's a brake system trying to stop the blade? Thanks.
A couple of things: 1) SawStops do not prevent kickback. Kickback occurs from a variety of things, mostly people being stupid and careless. Saw Stop will help prevent people from cutting off their fingers. Important, yes. But most accidents are caused by different circumstances. 2) Riving knife. Not "riveting knife". Dado is pronounced "day-do". Not like your Dad. Not Dad-oh. 3) You can make your own safety devices like push blocks. Those GripR things are gadgets. Focus on fundaments, not the gadgety toys in catalogs. 4) I think most companies are still in their infancy with regard to dust collection. This is probably the most common complaint I see when craftsmen like you review just about any brand of table saw. It's like the empty promises associated with technology --- a lot of hype, but the reality is quite a bit different. Personally, I'd be quite happy if a saw would capture even 80 percent of the dust. They are designing saws (and the cabinets) specifically for dust collection these days. My old (early 1990's) Delta Unisaw has a simple angled tray/floor on the cabinet bottom. You open the door and periodically sweep it out. Simple. The new saws collect a bunch of dust before the dust collection duct even begins to pick it up it seems. They just don't seem to work as advertised. 5) I don't think there is a table saw in the world that offers anything other than a stamped steel blade wrench. I agree with the other posters here that you are trying to Superman the thing. It just needs to be good and tight. Not ridiculously tight. 6) I wish I could still get a 1023 for the price you paid. Saws today are ridiculously high priced from what they were pre-pandemic. But, then again, isn't plywood and just about everything else? 7) I wish Grizzly would drop the gawdy, macho-centric bear logo stuff and streamline the looks of their logo and saw cabinets. Maybe a small, stylized bear and the model number? They definitely need a logo makeover from a talented graphic artist. And I wish they'd concentrate on just a few models of saws with the same, good fence and not fences that are all over the map quality wise. You have a really nice saw there, and shop. Wishing you a productive and safe woodworking journey.
Yeah, they raised the prices considerably in the past few months. If you are looking to spend that type of money I would recommend getting the SawStop for that price.
the prices of everything are up compared to anytime in tue past..has there ever been a time where the price of something goes down? (not because of a sale)
If you buy a table saw do not buy one with less than a 3 hp motor that is really 3 hp not measured at its peak hp. I've had a grizzly for probably 20 years and love it. The 3 hp motor lasted 15 of that until I got the smart idea of using several saw blades to make a dado rather than go out and buy a dado blade and burned the motor up.... Don't worry though, bought a 5 hp motor from grizzly and really happy with it too.
Riveting knife? Really? I bought my G1023RLWX for the price, power, fence, and for the router table/extension. Combined with my outfeed table, I have close to twenty square feet of work surface. Being able to use the fence on either side of the router means I can handle virtually any size project. I have had my saw for about four years now and still love it.
SawStop's a one trick pony; you're paying for that blade brake. Beyond that, it's a fine saw, but no better than any of its contemporaries of a certain quality level, for a LOT more money. Food for thought.
The saw stop I have is actually on long-term loan to me from a friend who closed his shop recently. Family stuff. I’m looking to add a second table saw to my shop and the Harvey is exactly what I’m looking at. I think it’s a better overall package despite not having the blade brake.
Okay I really tried to not comment and I've gone away from the video and come back a couple of times but I just can't let it go. 1) It's pronounced DAY-DOUGH 2) Dust collection on ALL table saws suck. The little 2" hose to the blade shroud has been problematic since they were introduced by saw makers. You just get too many small slivers or little pieces that come off and clog that small hose. Doesn't matter the company. I have a neighbor that likes to think he sets the standard the neighbors keep up with and he got one of the REALLY expensive SawStops to cut wood once every other weekend - maybe. The dust collection from the blade shroud is just as bad. That's whether it's under the table or over the table. That small hose just clogs. It's partially because of the smaller diameter but the low pressure dust collection systems use doesn't help as it give the heavier chips time to float to the bottom of the flex hose ridges and start a clog. If you hooked a shop vac up to that same small hose you'd never have a clog but it also would catch nearly as much dust. Removing the blade shroud, hose and sealing the front hole up with one of those magnets made for the purpose and just using the 4" hose out the back gets much better dust collection below the table. Above the table using something like the universal over arm blade shroud Grizzly offers (other brands have it too) with a proper 4" hose the whole way is much better. 3) I'm not sure anyone whose table top looks like that after only five years has any business telling anybody about what table saw is good or not as you clearly don't know the most basic thins about taking care of the tool. It makes me fairly certain that the issue you had with the stamped steel wrenches, which have been standard shipped with table saws since at least the 60s, is a you problem and not an issue with the tools themselves.
I don’t like the saw stop because as a woodworker safety is most important and destroying a blade because of a stupid mistake doesn’t make sense to me!
Dude, you talk too much. Just get to the point. Over 12 minutes long. Sawstops are not thst great. Amy incident, like cutting through a nail, can kick in the features of the sawstop and you'll pay hundreds to fix. Thumbs down.
Are you paid by SawStop…? Person I buy many safety tools and if I had a SawStop I will still buy safety tools…. Too funny man buys a saw for $1400 and complains it’s not as fancy as a $4000 saw.. Hmmm
Thanks for your thoughts. To answer your question, no I am not sponsored by any manufacture. The perspective is based on my years of using the Grizzly table saw and the price and value compared to a SawStop.
@@HowYouCanMakeIt Personally I like all saws and each have there good points and poor points. I have used many saws in my days and grew up using my grandfathers old craftsman saws which had nothing but a blade and a fence that took longer to set up then wood you were cutting. If you want a SawStop so bad then just buy one and be done with it or here’s another idea upgrade the issues you have with your grizzly saw. Anyway enjoy the gifts you have been blessed with and have a wonderful day.
@@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357 No apologies needed. but where are you going to find a New American made saw? most saw's are made in either Taiwan or China! even SawStop and Powermatic are manufactured in Taiwan just like the Grizzly G1023RLWX 5 HP cabinet saw.
While I agree with your logic I have to disagree. If you can afford a sawstop buy it even if you use it once a year. Safety is paramount no matter what but the safest person in the world can have am accident. The cost of surgery for the amputation of a ring finger can range from $20,000 to $60,000 for a person who may not have insurance. This cost covers the surgeon's fees, facility fees, hospital stay, anesthetics, and medical supplies. The average cost WITH insurance is between 5-11 thousand dollars. Not to mention your life will be changed forever. Noone ever said "man I wish I didn't buy a sawstop" but anyone that lost a finger also never said "I'm glad I don't have that digit anymore" .
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Have had my G1023RLW for going on 17 years. 3 hp. Never had a power problem. I build a lot of cabinets. If you have trouble with the wrenches, you are tightening the nut too tight. I use to be the set-up man besides cabinet builder at a cabinet shop. I added the 7’ rails to mine and built a router table into the very end. Added a lift. Use it all the time. Most convenient thing I’ve ever done. Over all I absolutely love my table saw. 17 years ago I paid $949.00 plus shipping, $78 I think.
thanks for the info
Love my Grizzly
I am using the open wrench to hold the spindle and the closed wrench to tighten the nut for the last five years without any issues. Much better than holding the blade on a Contractor Table Saw while tightening or loosening the Spindle Nut.
220V Power is awesome.
I also like the weight. Mine is an upgrade from a 1980 Craftsman Contractors Saw. This Grizzly doesn't move when we push wood through.
And the weight makes the router extension awesome too. Mine is replacing a home made router table mounted to a leg set that we had to continually tighten up and it would still move when you push work through the bit. We use the router all the time and leave it in the table saw. This week we're upgrading it to the Triton Router so we can change bits from above the table and deal with the bit's shaft length going through the cast iron extension. The cast iron router table extension was the least expensive way to get a great stable router.
Its much easier and safer to work with a stationary machine that doesn't budge. Your results will get better too.
The riving knife is a royal pain. We had to take it completely apart to figure out how best to adjust it. Plus it requires 1/8" thick blades so all of our old thin blades would not work. Once you set it up correctly though it works great. I have not had to adjust it again. While its a pain it works and we've only had to remove it when using a dado blade.
My only complaint is the safety shield. The anti kickback pawls are attached to the blade cover and rides up and down with the blade. Its okay raising the blade but when you lower the blade the anti kickback pawls stick into the table and prohibit the blade from being lowered. We've removed the palls, then finally went to the riving knife and have never put the safety shield back in. The anti kickback pawls also left marks on most woods. On the contractor saw we only removed the safety shield when ripping a thin piece that would get stuck under the cover. (We used the contractor saw for over 30 years).
We use Feather Pro featherboards on the table and the fence to help prevent kickback. Also use a MagSwitch featherboard when the work is too wide and covers up the miter slot that the Feather Pro attaches to. We built a jig using MagJigs to attach to the top of the fence to which we attach the Feather Pro Featherboard using a T-Slot on the jig. We can flip the jig to the other side and we use the fence and the jig with the router too.
We try real hard to not change the angle of the blade from 90 degrees. And we always use the same fine tooth blade with our close clearance inserts and our cross miter sled. Another saw for angle cuts would be awesome if only we had the money and the room.
For dust collection we've taped over the slot in the front for tilting the blade to reduce the amount of air coming into the case. We use a Central Machinery dust collector placed in another room and it does a great job. Eventually you do need to vacuum out the tablesaw and empty the dust collector bag.
We've used a Saw Stop for our Robotics team. (Our master machinist still insist that our students may not use the tablesaw). Its a great saw too. It still requires featherboards, hold downs, push sticks, and a great deal of attention. The Saw Stop doesn't have as many blade options and its unclear if you can use your favorite blade. The work can't be wet or the brake will activate. You must deactivate the brake to test for wet wood or when cutting metal. I do not remember having an issue lowering the safety blade guard on the Saw Stop. (I'll have to check when we get back into the robotics shop).
Be Safe: Use your featherboards. Do not set the featherboards to push stock against the blade. Use your blade guard or your riving knife. I use the top featherboard to remind me where the blade is. Always use your push sticks. Do not wear jewelry, loose clothing or long sleeves. Tie your hair back. Don't work while tired. Take breaks often. Take your time and never rush. And do not forget to wear a dust mask and hearing protection.
Enjoy your Grizzly Table Saw.
This is my favorite comment every. Thank you so much for all the helpful tips and information about the table saw and the differences you have had in working with them. Cheers!
Really appreciate the 5-year-looking-back perspective. I’ve been waiting for this saw to go on sale (and as others have said, it’s a lot more expensive now). Also appreciate the other folks’ comments.
Glad it was helpful!
I have mainly Grizzly tools. I got the 10" sliding table saw, and it is so easy to use. Changing blades is a breeze as it opens up wide. It only takes a few minutes to go from a glue line rip cut to a crosscut to a dado stack etc. that I don't even think twice about doing it. With the regular tables saw that I replaced, it was a pain to change the blades.
Thanks for the info I will check out the sliding table saw
I have had the G1023RL 3hp model for about a year now & the main issue I hate is the dust collection by far! It is not your slab, the saw just doesn't collect sawdust well. I don't mind the design & haven't had any problems with the wrench set. I tighten the spindle lock fairly tight & have no bending on the wrenches. Maybe they re-designed them in the last couple of years.
Also, NO table saw has the safety features that SawStop has as it is patented technology but if you use a quality push block/stick and pay attention to what you are doing, anyone should be able to stay safe.
Thanks for the vid, it's good to see the Grizzly still working great after 5 years!
thanks for the information. Yes, the dust collection is really bad and is a problem.
FYI Saw Stop does no protect against kick back . Make sure to use the riving knive and blade guard.
True
This saw is actually $3,000 with shipping and sales tax, and that is at the current sale price (July 2022)! But it is a great saw and I love it! I also bent the flimsy wrench they gave me and have to use a piece of wood to hold the blade. Thanks for a good video and honesty!
Thanks for sharing. I wish I could add a note in the video that the price has gone up since I posted. Inflation is crazy when I look back. If you don't need a cabinet saw. SawStop just came out with a really affordable contractor table this past week. It is only $899 www.sawstop.com/product/compact-table-saw/
Ive had a Grizzly 1023RLW for a few years now, I think its amazing. from what I remember when I was researching saws years ago, is that the 1023 is an exact copy of an old Delta Unisaw (another amazing machine in its day), so the "technology" may be outdated. As far as dust collection, you don't have enough of it, You need something that moves more air. I have an Oneida Supercell and I rarely have dust anywhere. I know, the supercell is about the same price as the saw, but you get what you pay for. It's not a perfect saw but its was great for the cost, well at least it was when I bought mine new for $1500, its unfortunate they went up so much. all that being said, it seems the price gap between Grizzly and a Saw Stop is closing.
Thanks for sharing your story and helpful information about dust collection
Your comparing a $1400 saw with a $5000 saw? I have a Grizzly G0696x which is a 5hp/220v/12". It's about $3500ish ans my father has the $5000 Sawstop. I've used both. Both are nice saws. The tools to change the blade on my machine probably weigh 3lbs each. They are monsters. The cabinet on my saw has an angle at the bottom to funnel the dust. Zero issues. I could be incorrect, but I'm not even sure you can get a Sawstop with a 12" blade. Personally, I wouldn't trade my father for his Sawstop. My Grizzly is a monster. Zero regrets. BTW, I have another $30,000 of Grizzly tools in my shop as well. The ONLY issues I've had with Grizzly is with their boxing/shipping. I've had several units come damaged but within a few days Grizzly has the damaged parts at my front door. To me, Saystops are like IPhone and Grizzly's are like tools.
Thanks for sharing like the perspective.
I will only buy Grizzly. They are great people to work with and they build great products. Thanks for the video.
Glad to help
I have used Grizzly tools in the past when I worked for large shop. They are pretty good. Not sure I would worry much about cheap tools. But dust collection is important. But again getting in the cleaning it out every couple of weeks is not that big of a deal. If the saw works well that is really important.
😁
An addendum to my earlier comment. My saw is hooked up to a modified Harbor Freight dust collector and, while there is some dust in the bottom of the case, real accumulation has not been a problem.
that is good to know. what harbor freight dust collector do you have and do you like it?
@@HowYouCanMakeIt I used their 2hp collector. It sells for $299 but is on sale quite often. I replaced their 5 micron bag with a Powertec #70333, a 1 micron bag. (Powertec also carries the replacement bottom bags at a very reasonable price.) I also installed a Thien baffle to increase cyclonic collection. You can find instructions for this all over the internet. Run as short a run of 4" tubing as possible and add a zero clearance insert on the saw and you should be in business. There will still be sawdust in the cabinet, but not too bad. Whenever I get in the mood, I take my shop vac to it. This should solve most of your dust problems. Good luck with the saw.
thanks 😁
I just purchased a grizzly G1023RLW it hasn't got here yet. I've been looking at reviews and I worked in a millwork shop for ten yrs. and I've used saws all my life and I've never seen one that no matter how good the bust collection is that you still have to clean bust out of it. I've used sawstop, powermatic and others and all kinds of dust collectors a d they all still have bust in the bottom
That is good to know. Thanks for sharing that is really helpful. 😀
I have the exact same dust issue on my SawStop; that's the nature of cabinet saws.
That is good to know
I've owned and refurbished Grizzly machinery since 1991. My fist machine was a Grizzly contractor table saw (not a cabinet saw). First, if the tools you got with them disappoint, you're not using them right. If you are bending ANY thin tool (and Grizzly's are better than most) YOU ARE TORQUING TOO HARD!!! The nut on the blade is self tightening, it gets TIGHTER with rotation, not looser, so you could literally tighten the nut by hand and it will work (don't). This is universal to all circular blade saws of ANY kind.
The fence is a Beismeyer 'T-Square' fence. It's available anywhere and be fitted to just about any saw. Knowing the proper way to ADJUST that fence is the value of it. If you don't already know, learn. BTW, the VALUE of that router table option is being able to use that fence, not just as a straight edge but to MOUNT JIGS ON!! You see that flat top between the faces on the fence? Drill and tap 1/4"-20 holes in three spaced places and then you can mount jigs and sub fences to it. You'll never use a 'router table' again.
It's called a DAY-do blade.
The dust collection in the saw is designed (for cost reasons) so that the dust 'forms' it's own 'ramp'. Once it does, it does not 'fill' the cabinet beyond the outlet. This is a BUDGET machine, but it's a well made budget machine. OF COURSE the entire machine could be 'better', but from the looks I doubt you'll need anything like that. LEARN HOW TO SERVICE THIS MACHINE. That's more valuable than a Saw Stop.
Your dust collector is marginal, at best. If you upgrade, get an overhead blade guard/dust extractor hood. It's worth it. Excelsior makes a good one that's a good value. It's also the BEST safety accessory you can buy.
That said, buy the Grizzly until you use it SO much that you just can't function. It's NOT the machine, I used mine in an active woodworking business for 25 years before I bought a Grizzly G0493 14" sliding table saw that I rescued out of a hobbyists basement and rebuilt it.
Grizzly is NOT 'made in America. 'Some' of their stuff is assembled here.
That being said, they are an ISO 9001 company, their stuff is well made and there's a LOT of it out there, so you can find used machines fairly easily. I own a shaper and a sander from them as well, all purchased used.
Really great information thanks for sharing
Iam considering upgrading from a Delta contractor table saw to a used Grizzly cabinet saw, for $300. Good move?
@edward0morrow325 yes that would be a good move
I love my Sawstop but it's crazy how much more saw you can get from competitors like Grizzly, Harvery, Laguna, etc for half the price.
I would agree...I am looking to get a new table saw and I believe Harvey to have the best features for the price. They are always making improvements.
I’ve heard a lot about SawStop for many years including how well made they are, how heavy and solid they are to handle the shock of the brake slamming down on the blade..BUT the SawStop unit that has the same specs as this Grizzly weighs 150 lbs less.
yeah, don't get me wrong I would love to have a sawstop but right now I can't justify purchasing one since this works fine for the post part.
That’s shipping weight vs saw weight
😁
You might want to look into the Harvey Saws if you’re still looking. They are solid and cost less than SawStop.
Thanks, I have heard good things about Harvey Saws.
Just placed an order for the 3HP model.....looking forward to having some power over the Craftsman model 113. Thanks for the review!
Glad to help
Be sure to pick up your Grizzly from a show room to get your machine in good condition.
:)
Well I have a 1023RLW now for about 5 years, never a problem and ran a lot of wood through it. I have been a woodworker for years with experience with high end tools far as I see you are trying to find something wrong with it. None of them are perfect
That is true. There are trade offs with each brand...they have their strengths and weakness
I just bought the newest version of this saw. Does your model have the dust shroud around the bottom of the blade?
There is one on the inside with a hose but doesn’t work that well the hose gets clogged all the time
Thanks for posting this video. I recently bought a new Harvey 3hp table saw that I think is basically the same saw as this one. Do you notice a kind of bumping noise when you turn off the saw and then blade is almost at a stop? Almost like it's a brake system trying to stop the blade? Thanks.
I haven’t noticed that with mine
A couple of things:
1) SawStops do not prevent kickback. Kickback occurs from a variety of things, mostly people being stupid and careless. Saw Stop will help prevent people from cutting off their fingers. Important, yes. But most accidents are caused by different circumstances.
2) Riving knife. Not "riveting knife". Dado is pronounced "day-do". Not like your Dad. Not Dad-oh.
3) You can make your own safety devices like push blocks. Those GripR things are gadgets. Focus on fundaments, not the gadgety toys in catalogs.
4) I think most companies are still in their infancy with regard to dust collection. This is probably the most common complaint I see when craftsmen like you review just about any brand of table saw. It's like the empty promises associated with technology --- a lot of hype, but the reality is quite a bit different. Personally, I'd be quite happy if a saw would capture even 80 percent of the dust.
They are designing saws (and the cabinets) specifically for dust collection these days. My old (early 1990's) Delta Unisaw has a simple angled tray/floor on the cabinet bottom. You open the door and periodically sweep it out. Simple. The new saws collect a bunch of dust before the dust collection duct even begins to pick it up it seems. They just don't seem to work as advertised.
5) I don't think there is a table saw in the world that offers anything other than a stamped steel blade wrench. I agree with the other posters here that you are trying to Superman the thing. It just needs to be good and tight. Not ridiculously tight.
6) I wish I could still get a 1023 for the price you paid. Saws today are ridiculously high priced from what they were pre-pandemic. But, then again, isn't plywood and just about everything else?
7) I wish Grizzly would drop the gawdy, macho-centric bear logo stuff and streamline the looks of their logo and saw cabinets. Maybe a small, stylized bear and the model number? They definitely need a logo makeover from a talented graphic artist.
And I wish they'd concentrate on just a few models of saws with the same, good fence and not fences that are all over the map quality wise.
You have a really nice saw there, and shop. Wishing you a productive and safe woodworking journey.
Thank you for the great information.
That saw is like 2700.00$ plus 378.00$ shipping today.
Crazy how expensive everything is now, 7 years later.😢
I know inflation is killing us
Grizzly table saws cost way more than $1600 now as I’m looking to buy one. The one in your link is over $2500.
Yeah, they raised the prices considerably in the past few months. If you are looking to spend that type of money I would recommend getting the SawStop for that price.
the prices of everything are up compared to anytime in tue past..has there ever been a time where the price of something goes down? (not because of a sale)
Never seen prices go down
If you buy a table saw do not buy one with less than a 3 hp motor that is really 3 hp not measured at its peak hp. I've had a grizzly for probably 20 years and love it. The 3 hp motor lasted 15 of that until I got the smart idea of using several saw blades to make a dado rather than go out and buy a dado blade and burned the motor up.... Don't worry though, bought a 5 hp motor from grizzly and really happy with it too.
Thanks for sharing
Grizzly is a nice saw. Sawstop is a lifetime saw.
👍🏻
Riveting knife? Really? I bought my G1023RLWX for the price, power, fence, and for the router table/extension. Combined with my outfeed table, I have close to twenty square feet of work surface. Being able to use the fence on either side of the router means I can handle virtually any size project. I have had my saw for about four years now and still love it.
just minor issues...it has been a great table saw.
Yeah I need something for daily use
👍🏻
What about Jet or Delta? You get what you pay for.
They are good companies too.
What are the dimensions of your shop? Good video, thanks!
That is a good question. I have a 3 car garage and only park one car in it the third bay has all my tools
Buddy, this saw is now $2250 plus $199 freight.
Wow they really increased their prices
Buddy, this saw is now $2,395 plus $329 freight.
Yeah I guess tools are a good investment. Good think to remember when talking to the wife 🤣
walnut is not very hard wood
It is considered a hard wood however hard maple is very hard on the wood scale
SawStop's a one trick pony; you're paying for that blade brake. Beyond that, it's a fine saw, but no better than any of its contemporaries of a certain quality level, for a LOT more money. Food for thought.
I agree. If I had to get another table saw I would look at Harvey
The saw stop I have is actually on long-term loan to me from a friend who closed his shop recently. Family stuff. I’m looking to add a second table saw to my shop and the Harvey is exactly what I’m looking at. I think it’s a better overall package despite not having the blade brake.
Totally
I’ll buy that saw from you.
:)
@@HowYouCanMakeItthanks for the video. I’m just starting out and have looked at grizzly.
They are a good machine
Okay I really tried to not comment and I've gone away from the video and come back a couple of times but I just can't let it go.
1) It's pronounced DAY-DOUGH
2) Dust collection on ALL table saws suck. The little 2" hose to the blade shroud has been problematic since they were introduced by saw makers. You just get too many small slivers or little pieces that come off and clog that small hose. Doesn't matter the company. I have a neighbor that likes to think he sets the standard the neighbors keep up with and he got one of the REALLY expensive SawStops to cut wood once every other weekend - maybe. The dust collection from the blade shroud is just as bad. That's whether it's under the table or over the table. That small hose just clogs. It's partially because of the smaller diameter but the low pressure dust collection systems use doesn't help as it give the heavier chips time to float to the bottom of the flex hose ridges and start a clog. If you hooked a shop vac up to that same small hose you'd never have a clog but it also would catch nearly as much dust. Removing the blade shroud, hose and sealing the front hole up with one of those magnets made for the purpose and just using the 4" hose out the back gets much better dust collection below the table. Above the table using something like the universal over arm blade shroud Grizzly offers (other brands have it too) with a proper 4" hose the whole way is much better.
3) I'm not sure anyone whose table top looks like that after only five years has any business telling anybody about what table saw is good or not as you clearly don't know the most basic thins about taking care of the tool. It makes me fairly certain that the issue you had with the stamped steel wrenches, which have been standard shipped with table saws since at least the 60s, is a you problem and not an issue with the tools themselves.
Thanks for the extensive comment and your thoughts. 😁
"don't buy it because I have a router table?" seriously bro?
It was something I did want to mention. 😀
Saw Stop - $3000+. Grizzly $1000-1500.
:)
I don’t like the saw stop because as a woodworker safety is most important and destroying a blade because of a stupid mistake doesn’t make sense to me!
Thanks for the thought
Get a Harvey 4 horsepower saw.
I know I will pretty soon.
I will have to check it out thanks
If you want to go pro buy Felder, not sawstop .
Felder is for mass production. I would recommend Harvey
Dude, you talk too much. Just get to the point. Over 12 minutes long. Sawstops are not thst great. Amy incident, like cutting through a nail, can kick in the features of the sawstop and you'll pay hundreds to fix. Thumbs down.
Thanks for the feedback and appreciate your thoughts.
Are you paid by SawStop…? Person I buy many safety tools and if I had a SawStop I will still buy safety tools…. Too funny man buys a saw for $1400 and complains it’s not as fancy as a $4000 saw.. Hmmm
Thanks for your thoughts. To answer your question, no I am not sponsored by any manufacture. The perspective is based on my years of using the Grizzly table saw and the price and value compared to a SawStop.
@@HowYouCanMakeIt Personally I like all saws and each have there good points and poor points. I have used many saws in my days and grew up using my grandfathers old craftsman saws which had nothing but a blade and a fence that took longer to set up then wood you were cutting. If you want a SawStop so bad then just buy one and be done with it or here’s another idea upgrade the issues you have with your grizzly saw. Anyway enjoy the gifts you have been blessed with and have a wonderful day.
Thanks. Loved hearing about your background and when I was a kid I used a small craftsman table saw good memories.
this guys has no business rating a table
I am glad it isn't a rating.
I was wrong made in Taiwan. Not made in China! It’s made in China. That is the number 1 problem in my opinion.
I think there have been issues with quality control, I have talked to other owners who haven't had any issues.
it's a good saw no problems at all. Made in Taiwan not China.
👍🏻
@@MCVixenVee my apologies. Taiwan way better than China. My fault for assuming a;l grizzly made in China. I am still gonna buy American.
@@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357 No apologies needed. but where are you going to find a New American made saw? most saw's are made in either Taiwan or China! even SawStop and Powermatic are manufactured in Taiwan just like the Grizzly G1023RLWX 5 HP cabinet saw.
While I agree with your logic I have to disagree. If you can afford a sawstop buy it even if you use it once a year. Safety is paramount no matter what but the safest person in the world can have am accident.
The cost of surgery for the amputation of a ring finger can range from $20,000 to $60,000 for a person who may not have insurance. This cost covers the surgeon's fees, facility fees, hospital stay, anesthetics, and medical supplies. The average cost WITH insurance is between 5-11 thousand dollars. Not to mention your life will be changed forever.
Noone ever said "man I wish I didn't buy a sawstop" but anyone that lost a finger also never said "I'm glad I don't have that digit anymore" .
Very good points 😁