My other related videos: - Router Feed Direction Basics | What is a Climb Cut??? - th-cam.com/video/XgjJs6Dshfc/w-d-xo.html - How to Use a Router | Router for Beginners - th-cam.com/video/NYxrX9vQFI4/w-d-xo.html - Table Saw / Evolution Rage 5S / With Simple Router Table Extension - th-cam.com/video/hKGSkINhEBo/w-d-xo.html - Router Table Extension For a Table Saw | Evolution Rage 5S | Part 1 - th-cam.com/video/YiD4CJ9F0CE/w-d-xo.html - DIY Simple Lift for a Plunge Router - th-cam.com/video/sCyhsXXIX4k/w-d-xo.html - Router Table Attachment with Storage, Dust Extraction - th-cam.com/video/bPFCq8loSWo/w-d-xo.html
Wow, I wish I watched this about an hour ago. That workpiece position bit towards the end is pretty important. I was really lucky that i just ticked my finger. Not good, but at least I didn't have to go to the hospital or anything. Great information in here!
This is just what I needed! This is the absolute best tutorial on basic router table use I have found, and I thank you for it. Also, I’m American, so your accent is fun, too.
Great video man. No stupid music intro to pain through. That is one rockin' table you got there bro. Love the integration! I am very new to routing. Heck, I didn't even know which way to feed the router, and now I do. Thank you. Most of my bits are guided (bearing), and you taught me how to set that up with my new Bosch RA-1181. It is a pretty nice table, but if your a pedant like myself, setting the plate flush with the table took me quite a long time. My plans are to make window casings out of dimensional lumber, next will be door casings, mirror casings, and when I get comfortable enough with my nascent skills I plan on making some furnature. I really appreciate your video, thank you.
Thank you very much for this instructional video. You have saved me a lot of trouble. I had no idea how to use a router with arouter table. Thank you again, and again.
Thank you! I bought a router table (and a 1/4" round bit, as well as a 3/4" straight bit) to make some cuts on 1"x 2" long pieces of wood. This is because I want to then use the cut wood to make "stretch bars" that'll be used for canvas paintings. The inside of stretch bars are cut in a way so they arch inward, and the "highest" point on the profile of the wood is the most outer edge. This way, only that edge has canvas touching the wood (which is good for preventing marks during painting). What I discovered from this explanation is I'll need to more carefully plan the cutting of my wood, because I'll end up at a point where effectively there will be only one point of contact against the fence stabilizing the piece of wood. So theoretically if I'm not careful, the wood could "fall in" on one edge and cut improperly. I think I'll need to look up a better way to use a router table to specifically make stretch boards. Regardless, thank you for the warning to a problem I didn't realize I had.
Thank you, Tomasz. I had understood that the direction of cut was important when going along the edge of a piece of wood but it was only after watching this video (and having gone wrong) that I appreciated it was as important when cutting a grove. I had thought the direction did not matter as the both sides of the cutter was against the wood; I had not appreciated that, of course, only one side was actually cutting.
Another favorite: tight radiuses in corners across the grain. Very easy to split the wood when workpiece are thin. Just yesterday a launched a piece of purpleheart (splits very easily) through my workshop when this happened. 🙋🏻♀️Anna
Great video for the new user, Tomasz, perhaps a Part 2 with info on use of featherboards, sacrificial fences, backer boards, stops etc. and incremental cutting for removing material on larger profiles in stages.
If my memory serves me correctly Thomasz, you once said that you are Polish? I'd like to express my respect and admiration for the performance of your nation over the past thirteen months. Absolute bloody heroes !
Yes I'm Polish👍 Well they are our neighbours and despite rough history between Poland and Ukraine it's the people that matter. But it's a conflict that can very quickly spiral out of control...
I;m new to this channel and would have guessed Thomasz was from Scandinavia. Btw : great tips. I'm new and I think I would have been foolish enough to try the stuff at the end of the video!
Another informative video ... especially with regards what not to do and the actual demonstration of what can happen ... sometimes it's better to demonstrate something than just talk about, this being one of those things 👍
All depends what is the size of the board. If it will fit the router table in a safe way. Then use the fence as a guide, try to make a dado in a size that you will have a router bit in that exact size. It will save you a lot of problems. Do the cut is several passes, each time raising your router bit a bit higher.
Even as an intermediate woodworker-the router table scares the heck out of me; it’s the least used tool although hand held is used all time-and the preference.
What's your opinion on using the infamous makita/katsu 710w router in a router table? Do you think it will be underpowered? I ask because since its so so so massively popular one can get pretty cheap plates with built in lifting for those routes, but if the router is too weak for that use there is no point.
It all depends what you will use it for. Check this video out and it may give you an idea what the katsu can do th-cam.com/video/vqaSR79hAfA/w-d-xo.html
@@CasualDIY What made you seem to switch to the Trend 18v trim router with only a 1/4 collet as opposed to the Katsu with both 1/4 & 3/8 collets? Also, could you tell me where the Trend router is made as someone on Amazon is claiming it's made in the UK which I find hard to believe. Great informative video yet again, well done and thank you.
@@oliverreedslovechild I only use the 1/4 bits don't have any other bits. The Trend is cordless 🤣 initially I thought it would just be a lot weaker and won't be able to do the jobs I used to do with my Katsu. But I was wrong it tackles everything just fine. Just need to have a good sized battery 4ah and it's just fine. And I love that it has no power cord.
Easiest way of remembering the rotation direction is this. Take your right hand and put your thumb up. The thumb represents the bit. The curve of your fingers represents the rotation direction. Put your thumb down if you are using the router freehand and the rotation direction changes accordingly. You are pushing your piece into the cutting rotation.
09:55 So - and that's where I get really confused, Thomas. Colin Knecht from woodworkingweb, feeds from left to right, using the router table as some sort of a planer, and he explains exactly what he's doing. Have a look: th-cam.com/video/P1Bt7y_u3rE/w-d-xo.html jump to 08:20 He's feeding from left to right, and everything is apparently fine. Who's right?
Have you seen my video and the potential consequences of what can happen? If that is not convincing you then I don't know what will. Check out video from Stumpy Nubs, he made sever videos on this topic - th-cam.com/video/0RK1JK8HPJA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4UqNZMjO0mEBnydh
OK, a real-life scenario. Wood plank 70x35x500. you have to make groove, 10mm deep, 50mm wide. Open ends on both sides (for the ease). Router bit without the bearing, 20mm diameter, sticks up 10mm. Fence is set up to 10mm from the carbide. I would assume, the first pass should go LEFT to RIGHT, then flick the piece flat, 180degrees on horizontal axis, and repeat. How to remove the remaining middle bit? (Looking from the side, it looks like letter E now, but should look like "C".
Ok so you set the fence on your router table so that the first pass is on the closes edge of the grove to the fence. Now on the router table you go from right to left as both sides of the router bit are in the material. In several passes reach the desired depth. Then move the fence back by 15mm. And go from right to left. As the front of the router bit is cutting ( not the back of the bit that's closer to the fence ) in several passes reach desired depth. Then move the fence back another 15mm and repeat the process. Make sure to use push blocks not your hands to move the board over the router bit.
@@CasualDIY Thank you very much! Yeah - that is logical: cutting-edge presses onto the fence at all times. I did believe in my antikickback side support a little bit too much. Also, I have to remember the "In several passes". I think I tried to bite too much in one go. Thanks a lot!
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
My other related videos:
- Router Feed Direction Basics | What is a Climb Cut??? - th-cam.com/video/XgjJs6Dshfc/w-d-xo.html
- How to Use a Router | Router for Beginners - th-cam.com/video/NYxrX9vQFI4/w-d-xo.html
- Table Saw / Evolution Rage 5S / With Simple Router Table Extension - th-cam.com/video/hKGSkINhEBo/w-d-xo.html
- Router Table Extension For a Table Saw | Evolution Rage 5S | Part 1 - th-cam.com/video/YiD4CJ9F0CE/w-d-xo.html
- DIY Simple Lift for a Plunge Router - th-cam.com/video/sCyhsXXIX4k/w-d-xo.html
- Router Table Attachment with Storage, Dust Extraction - th-cam.com/video/bPFCq8loSWo/w-d-xo.html
You can never have too much safety information, thanks for the reminders Tomasz
Exactly 👍
Wow, I wish I watched this about an hour ago. That workpiece position bit towards the end is pretty important. I was really lucky that i just ticked my finger. Not good, but at least I didn't have to go to the hospital or anything. Great information in here!
Always best to do a bit of research👍 good that the injury wasn't too bad. Stay safe
This is just what I needed! This is the absolute best tutorial on basic router table use I have found, and I thank you for it. Also, I’m American, so your accent is fun, too.
@grb024 hehe glad that my video was helpful
Great video man. No stupid music intro to pain through. That is one rockin' table you got there bro. Love the integration! I am very new to routing. Heck, I didn't even know which way to feed the router, and now I do. Thank you. Most of my bits are guided (bearing), and you taught me how to set that up with my new Bosch RA-1181. It is a pretty nice table, but if your a pedant like myself, setting the plate flush with the table took me quite a long time. My plans are to make window casings out of dimensional lumber, next will be door casings, mirror casings, and when I get comfortable enough with my nascent skills I plan on making some furnature.
I really appreciate your video, thank you.
Glad that you enjoyed it 👍😄
First time router table user here oh, I'm so glad I watched this video, thank you for the knowledge
Glad that my video was some help 👍
Thank you so much for the safety tips! I am picking up a table today and already I feel you have saved my life.
Glad that my video was some help👍
@CasualDIY it sure has been a great help, after a few attempts I managed a nice wide sliding dovetail joint.
Excellent video, love the pace and way you explain things! Thank you
Thank you kindly
Thank you very much for this instructional video. You have saved me a lot of trouble. I had no idea how to use a router with arouter table. Thank you again, and again.
Thank you for watching 👍
great tips, good explanation Thanks Godbless
Thank you for watching
I learned a lot, Thank you! Just got a new router table, and the first thing I do is watch a handful of safety videos
Good place to start👍 thank you for watching
Clear and concise. Appreciate. Didn't consider widening tracks as I've never need it, really valuable.
Thank you for watching 👍
Thank you!
I bought a router table (and a 1/4" round bit, as well as a 3/4" straight bit) to make some cuts on 1"x 2" long pieces of wood. This is because I want to then use the cut wood to make "stretch bars" that'll be used for canvas paintings. The inside of stretch bars are cut in a way so they arch inward, and the "highest" point on the profile of the wood is the most outer edge. This way, only that edge has canvas touching the wood (which is good for preventing marks during painting).
What I discovered from this explanation is I'll need to more carefully plan the cutting of my wood, because I'll end up at a point where effectively there will be only one point of contact against the fence stabilizing the piece of wood. So theoretically if I'm not careful, the wood could "fall in" on one edge and cut improperly.
I think I'll need to look up a better way to use a router table to specifically make stretch boards.
Regardless, thank you for the warning to a problem I didn't realize I had.
Sometimes spending couple of hours on making a simple jig for that one specific but repetitive cut could be the best way to go.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you🤗
Thank you for watching
Lots of good safety tips there from the Jig King. ✊
Thanks 👍😅
Thanks, very good safety advice!
@@anthonywalsh6605 thank you for watching 👍
Excellent advice for all router users.
Glad you think so!
Thank you Tomasz, very good illustrative and instructional video, much appreciated… ✅ 👏🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, Tomasz.
I had understood that the direction of cut was important when going along the edge of a piece of wood but it was only after watching this video (and having gone wrong) that I appreciated it was as important when cutting a grove. I had thought the direction did not matter as the both sides of the cutter was against the wood; I had not appreciated that, of course, only one side was actually cutting.
Glad that my video was some help 👍
Excellent tips, Tomasz! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Those always help!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you kindly 👍
Great tips my friend, thank you for sharing this info.
@@skampp thank you for watching 👍
Excellent. Thank you
@@robertbarr8001 thank you kindly for watching
Another favorite: tight radiuses in corners across the grain. Very easy to split the wood when workpiece are thin. Just yesterday a launched a piece of purpleheart (splits very easily) through my workshop when this happened. 🙋🏻♀️Anna
Yes it can be very dangerous and things can go sideways very quickly
Great tips thanks 👍
Thank you for watching 👍
Thanks i learned a few things about material feed ,
Thank you for watching 👍
Great video for the new user, Tomasz, perhaps a Part 2 with info on use of featherboards, sacrificial fences, backer boards, stops etc. and incremental cutting for removing material on larger profiles in stages.
Great suggestion!
Fabulous - thank you
Thank you for watching
Always informative and helpful. Thank you Tomasz. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Thank you for watching my friend 👍
If my memory serves me correctly Thomasz, you once said that you are Polish? I'd like to express my respect and admiration for the performance of your nation over the past thirteen months. Absolute bloody heroes !
Yes I'm Polish👍 Well they are our neighbours and despite rough history between Poland and Ukraine it's the people that matter. But it's a conflict that can very quickly spiral out of control...
I;m new to this channel and would have guessed Thomasz was from Scandinavia. Btw : great tips. I'm new and I think I would have been foolish enough to try the stuff at the end of the video!
Good informative video. Thanks Tomasz.
Thank you for watching 👍
Another informative video ... especially with regards what not to do and the actual demonstration of what can happen ... sometimes it's better to demonstrate something than just talk about, this being one of those things 👍
Yes I think demonstration like that has a stronger effect and should be remember longer.
great video thanks
Thank you for watching 👍
Thank you 🙂
You’re welcome 😊
Great video, really helpful, thanks! 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Hmmm.. that explains a certain failure in my workshop today... Am I the only one who watches tool safety videos AFTER trying the new tool first? ;)
Most likely not the only one 😅
Here I am after a failure in the shop yesterday
@@TheSleevelessReefer hope your digits are fine!
Router 2:36
Best way to learn is from your mistakes 😂
Thanks for the safety tips. Any advice for making a dado or rabbet cut on a router table?
All depends what is the size of the board. If it will fit the router table in a safe way. Then use the fence as a guide, try to make a dado in a size that you will have a router bit in that exact size. It will save you a lot of problems. Do the cut is several passes, each time raising your router bit a bit higher.
Even as an intermediate woodworker-the router table scares the heck out of me; it’s the least used tool although hand held is used all time-and the preference.
Good video, thank you.
Thank you for watching 👍
thank you
You're welcome
First !! Looking forward to building one !
Hehe congrats 👍😁
What's your opinion on using the infamous makita/katsu 710w router in a router table? Do you think it will be underpowered? I ask because since its so so so massively popular one can get pretty cheap plates with built in lifting for those routes, but if the router is too weak for that use there is no point.
It all depends what you will use it for. Check this video out and it may give you an idea what the katsu can do th-cam.com/video/vqaSR79hAfA/w-d-xo.html
@@CasualDIY What made you seem to switch to the Trend 18v trim router with only a 1/4 collet as opposed to the Katsu with both 1/4 & 3/8 collets? Also, could you tell me where the Trend router is made as someone on Amazon is claiming it's made in the UK which I find hard to believe. Great informative video yet again, well done and thank you.
I just noticed that the trend kit on your Amazon store is £275.65 CHEAPER than on Trends own site £515.6O! WTAF?
@@oliverreedslovechild I only use the 1/4 bits don't have any other bits. The Trend is cordless 🤣 initially I thought it would just be a lot weaker and won't be able to do the jobs I used to do with my Katsu. But I was wrong it tackles everything just fine. Just need to have a good sized battery 4ah and it's just fine. And I love that it has no power cord.
@@oliverreedslovechild bargain 👍😁
Nice buddy
Glad you liked it
Easiest way of remembering the rotation direction is this. Take your right hand and put your thumb up. The thumb represents the bit. The curve of your fingers represents the rotation direction. Put your thumb down if you are using the router freehand and the rotation direction changes accordingly. You are pushing your piece into the cutting rotation.
09:55 So - and that's where I get really confused, Thomas. Colin Knecht from woodworkingweb, feeds from left to right, using the router table as some sort of a planer, and he explains exactly what he's doing. Have a look:
th-cam.com/video/P1Bt7y_u3rE/w-d-xo.html
jump to 08:20
He's feeding from left to right, and everything is apparently fine. Who's right?
Have you seen my video and the potential consequences of what can happen? If that is not convincing you then I don't know what will. Check out video from Stumpy Nubs, he made sever videos on this topic - th-cam.com/video/0RK1JK8HPJA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4UqNZMjO0mEBnydh
OK, a real-life scenario. Wood plank 70x35x500. you have to make groove, 10mm deep, 50mm wide. Open ends on both sides (for the ease). Router bit without the bearing, 20mm diameter, sticks up 10mm. Fence is set up to 10mm from the carbide. I would assume, the first pass should go LEFT to RIGHT, then flick the piece flat, 180degrees on horizontal axis, and repeat. How to remove the remaining middle bit? (Looking from the side, it looks like letter E now, but should look like "C".
Ok so you set the fence on your router table so that the first pass is on the closes edge of the grove to the fence. Now on the router table you go from right to left as both sides of the router bit are in the material. In several passes reach the desired depth. Then move the fence back by 15mm. And go from right to left. As the front of the router bit is cutting ( not the back of the bit that's closer to the fence ) in several passes reach desired depth. Then move the fence back another 15mm and repeat the process. Make sure to use push blocks not your hands to move the board over the router bit.
@@CasualDIY Thank you very much! Yeah - that is logical: cutting-edge presses onto the fence at all times. I did believe in my antikickback side support a little bit too much. Also, I have to remember the "In several passes". I think I tried to bite too much in one go. Thanks a lot!
Better to say, use the hand router in an anticlockwise direction. Left to right is not clear.
Great as normal mate.
Exactly 👍