I'd like to point out that Mazda RX-8 engine oil filters fit Subaru engines. They are a longer filter like the older Subaru OEM filters. The bypass spring rating is 20.3-26.1psi and the Mazda filter is manufactured by Tokyo Roki just like the OEM Subaru filters are for pretty much everywhere except North America. Mazda Part# N3R1 14 302
In Australia we get the black Japanese filters though I don't think I've heard of people have oil issues with them even though they seem small for a 2.5l engine. Even my 2.0 Impreza NA uses a bigger filter
Can you point out where the banjo bolt is located please? I'd like to change mine! Great video by the way keep it up man you'll be getting tons of subs in no time
It is under the intake manifold towards the back. The banjo bolt connects the line that feeds the turbo and the variable valve timing up front. You can remove the filter from it but you must use the factory bolt because of orifice size.
Great video. So many videos 'explaining' problems only go as far as saying 'This is the issue... moving on' Super informative as always. Your channel has helped me a lot on my Subaru and I'm glad to see content has always been top tier!
Great video as always! These cars can be reliable if taken care of. My 2004 wrx has 240,000 miles on it. It still has the factory motor, turbo, transmission, and rear differential. I couldn't have said it better myself. These videos are fantastic!
Hello Mr. Subaru, you make excellent points on EJ255 failures, and how to avoid them, I have an 06 legacy 2.5l GT not knowing how hard this engine was run before I got it was scary. I changed oil & filter right away, always check the oil. Drive the speed limit, give it a little gas in the corners, it is so much fun then back off. No open throttle or wild street racing. I agree with everything you said about the top failures of Ej 255 engines, it came with a n AEM cold air intake and an aftermarket exhaust . I will be looking for a stock air intake, just found a dedicated Subaru bone yard fairly close by. Thanks for all the right on info, so far it's been s cool ride, .....
So , these "failures" were NOT the fault of BAD design by Subaru, but by obtuse owners going along with the hype for synthetic oil longevity, and NOT changing oil EVERY 4000 miles(IN a TURBO engine). If you buy a car WITH A TURBO and DON'T understand how critical FREQUENT oil changes are, you should NOT be buying these types of vehicles!! Btw, OIL (even synthetic) is DIRT CHEAP!!!
First off great video! Would you consider doing a video going over all the different Subaru ej type engines and the key differences please. I know it'd be time consuming, but it'd be so interesting!
I actually had someone suggest this last week. It may take a while to film, but I would like to. I have in my possession an EJ18, EJ22E, EJ222, EJ251, EJ253, EJ25D, EJ255, EG33, EZ30D, and EZ36D. I'd need an EJ205 and EJ257 to cover basically all US market Subaru engines from 1993+.
Thank tou for providing this informstional video. I intend on doing an ej255 swap on my bugeye and this is extremely useful information. Keep doing what you do.
Really well explained video. Back in the day, I used to build race engines (amateur), so I came into this from a mechanical background. Your explanations are accurate, complete, and clear. It is too bad that manufacturers find themselves pushed to make changes for marginal benefit, but significant long-term risk. A car that is scrapped before its time negates every environmental benefit that was gained.
Had a 2015 Crosstrek, Subaru recommended oil changes I believe every 10,000 Km. The oil looked like sludge even when doing oil changes every 7,000 Km using mobil 1 0W-20 Full Synthetic. They want people to destroy engines lol.
yup i had my vf48 turbo go bye-bye @73K miles due to clogged banjo bolt filter, but i did change my oil every 3 months, thankfully STI was under warranty :)
I would also like to mention that along with taking the turbo out thanks to that filter screen in the banjo bolt, It will also starve the AVCS solenoid of oil as well and may possibly cause the cam to chew into in the front cam cap.
Another spot-on video. I've learned a lot from your channel (just found it recently). The '05 OBXT we bought from a Subaru tech in Detroit suffered the banjo bolt filter failure that did kill the turbo, then the engine at 112K. He bought the car from the customer, put in a newer short-block, and replaced the turbo. After reading about these sort of issues before I bought that car, I quickly took it to a tuner to get rid of any factory lean running programming (and honestly, put in a little freer exhaust at the same time). A little more power, and less worries long-term, well worth the cost. It is interesting how Subarus are so sensitive to the intake side of the air stream. Unplug a Subaru MAF sensor and it won't run at all (been there done that by mistake after I put in fresh injectors at 200K). No fallback to ECU map / O2 sensor readings to compute fuel mixtures like most Euro/Bosch ran vehicles. I'll have to look into that Killer-B oil pickup, sounds like a good idea, and possibly the larger oil pump down when it needs a rebuild. Keep up the vloging!
Hi man, I love your videos. They're very helpful. Would the turbo failure point also apply to a 257? I have a 2006 Forester XT auto, and there is a small amount of white smoke coming from down in the passenger side of the engine well. It has smelled on short drives since I bought it, but that usually went away quickly. It is getting worse lately, and the visible smoke just started. It might also be worth mentioning that its getting cold out...
@@MrSubaru1387 I'm stupid, lol. Yeah you're right. I am pretty certain whats actually happening in my case is the valve cover gasket is leaking. But I've been wrong before.
Late reply, but I bought a Subaru Legacy GT that I suspect has a slight crack in one of the piston rings. Slightly too much oil consumption, but no smoke or anything crazy, wish me luck! Anyways: I checked the service history of the car and there is no documentation of a PCV valve having been replaced. I did this myself. This part is extremely important to keep cleaned out in your turbocharged car, especially one with cast pistons! The previous owner also said he started to have issues with the car only when he threw on a turboback exhaust, turbo inlet, and removed the TGVs. The car should absolutely be kept stock bar a professional tune on a dyno.
Hi Mr. Subaru, I cant find a throttle body assembly for my 2005 LL Bean Outback 3.0R. How can I buy one, do you have one for sale...desperate in Tampa Fla.
Thank You!!! Really appreciate what you're doing and loving the new format. Which higher capacity oil filter brands do you suggest? Are the 12mm oil pumps JDM only items, or will they work on our USDM vehicles? And will the upgrades mentioned work on NA/Non-Turbo vehicles? Again, Thanks loads.
Definitely change that pickup tube out. I changed my 06 STI one to the Killer B in 2011 and it was cracked pretty badly. I caught it just in time and thankfully the car is still running great.
Excellent video thank you! The only comment I have is there’s substantial debate on whether to increase the oil pump size from 10mm to 11mm for single AVCS EJ25s. My question is does the Non-STi EJ (10mm) run with lower than optimal oil pressure?
The Filter is smaller on the outside but what about on the inside material surface area and length. Eg, the White K&N Filters are tiny compared to others like half the size but they have 45% more material/surface area on inside than OEM Filters. Not sure about 2.5L as i would never have one as its just same block as 2.0L bored out too big. Ringland Failure in most cars is 95% the drivers fault for LSPI and not downshifting when overtaking or going up a hill. You DO NOT ever floor it WOT under 60mph in top gear.
Amazing video! Ive got a 2011 wrx and i am ordering an invida N1 catback (Non resonated). Tons of people say you can go catback with no tune. Is this true? Or should i be worried and get a tune?
Typically it's the young guys who buy these turbo cars thinking they have a WRC on their hands. Sometimes it's their first car and they know nothing about caring for the engine at all. They are in the mind set of "I now have a race car, lets race everyone" and then they cry to mom/dad or the dealer that after a few races the engine is broken. I myself used to have this mindset; but I was too poor and couldn't get my hands on a wrx or 2.5rs. I got a 95 Legacy at the time with the ej22e. It was a 5 speed though. I have learned you really should just drive the car for about a year before you start mods. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS if you start mods; like turbo or even upgraded turbo do the supporting mods first. Most of the time your engine is plenty powerful; do transmission work, make that one stronger, upgrade your brakes, upgrade the tires before you upgrade engine components. A ton of power is useless if you can't put it to the pavement. But these kids don't really understand that part. Heck I see and hear a lot of them will buy the latest STi and then at the tire/wheel shop spending over a grand on new rims/tires. Car won't even have 5k on it. I have always gone by the philosophy of get used to the car first before you do things to change the setup.
To put the larger oil filter on does that require anything other than just Screwing it on just as you would with the other one? Also if I get it from Subaru which one do I ask for to get the larger one I have a 2004 FXT thanks for the great video!
He is one of the few people that I trust information from besides mrt performance in australia. He speaks the truth and knows what he is talking about.
Just bought my banjo bolt today and I'm tearing into it This weekend thanks for the tip. Also where do you source your parts? I own three Subaru's and I'm always looking for a good source of quality parts.
I have a 2006 wrx ej255 with the single avcs. Would you recommend installing a jdm 12mm oil pump instead of the stock 10mm oil pump? Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for explaining the issues surrounding this engine and what we can do and avoid. I have a 67k '12 wrx, change my oil and filter every 3k, but I really need a reliable car that won't keep me second guessing(weekly trips to doc appt for medical condition). I even considered selling it. Would having the car tuned so that it is not so lean increase the reliability if I do keep the car? Thank you very much. -Ron
Can you make a video how to bleed the coolant in one of these engines? I have a lot of issues when it comes to bleeding my 2006 wrx. I use a spill free funnel and OEM fluids but I always have a hard time doing it or it wont bleed right and it takes couple days to do it.
About the oil pump, bigger doesn’t always mean better. If you have a 10 mil and upgrade to a 12 mil with stock pan, you can actually outflow and have the less oil in the pan than desirable. Only upgrade up a size. Ex. 10 -> 11 or 11->12 mil
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks! Wondering if you could you do a similar video for non-turbos? Unless there is one already. That would complement this well. Love your content. Thanks again
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks I missed it! Was trying to find some clues whether I may get affected by the head gasket issue with my 2.5i 2011 Impreza, and it looks like I might... :(
Help... 15 STi won't make more than 5lbs of boost. Ran a smoke test no visible leaks. Car was fine one day sat over night got in the next day and it is noticably quieter. No exhaust pops nothing almost like a non turbo car. No weird noises, no cel, dam is at 1.0. could the BCS taken a shit? I'm lost my mechanic and I can't figure it out. Stock car with muffler deletes. 60k miles. Anyone had this issue any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Typically i just grab a Nissan 65F0E-9E01A for the titans and frontiers and use that on my subaru, Its a longer filter and has good construction and its only about 8$ a filter.
1. Bought 2014 wrx non sti from a lifelong friend. She used 87 Octane. Bad. 2. Had it 2 weeks, added Cobb stage 1 tune. Loved it. 3. 2 weeks later added AEM cold air intake. Test drove, spun bearing. (87 octane big contributer) 4. Just bought an EJ20 take-out from Japan and will swap all parts from mine to the 20. 5. Took pictures of all the numbers on the motor. Do they indicate what year/make/model the engine was in? 6. The ej20 has the AVCS on the intake only like my 255. 7. Does the ej20 need the turbo oil pickup, and oil pump replaced? Or should I leave the oil pump in the ej20 and the oil pickup? Ej255 turbo will go on the ej20. 8. Should I install an external oil cooler? Thx for the help for this old guy new to subies!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to explain things thoroughly. A couple days ago I bought an 06 Outback XT that is super clean with 125K miles on it, I got a good deal and can afford to spend a few thousand if necessary to make it right. The turbo has failed and I have codes P0011 and P0302. I just cut the oil filter and there is metal in it for sure, it isn’t an insane amount, you have to take it out in the sun to see the glitter in the very bottom of the filter can, but it is there for sure. I am struggling with how far to go with the repairs to have the best chance of making it reliable for another 100K miles. Do I need to pull the oil pan? Would it be easier to pull the whole engine and at that point do head gaskets, timing belt as well? Is there an oil cooler that should be flushed? Or just change the turbo, pull the screens out of the banjo fittings, several quick oil changes and roll with it? I was wondering what you think is the best course of action, understanding there are no guarantees and an engine failure is always possible once there is metal, I just don’t want to throw everything at it if 90% of the time less work works out ok.
Hey are you by chance near Ga I’m in the north Georgia area and I have a motor that needs new bearings and gone through also a transmission that needs some love both out of an 2015 sti. Was wondering if I could pay you to repair and might make some good informational videos for viewers as well
I have a 2011 wrx, i change the oil between 3-4k miles. Had it since 68k miles. Got 120k now, probably due for some work before it goes. I already burn too much 5 30 oil. I put 5 40 in it last oil change, ill see how its doin
The main let down on the ej255 was factory cast pistons. Sti had all the goodies 6spd and factory forged pistons. Also, the factory oil pick up did have issues but corrected with a killer bee or aftermarket oil pick up. Tunning is a key factor in owning one and also having the right mods to suite.
Is it safe to buy/mount a filter, either older or newer model that is longer/bigger? Or do these turbo ej255 motors only accept this specific little filter? I wonder if other filters like WIX are a bit bigger than stock..
Great video, crucial tips! My ‘05 Outback XT has a whopping 210K miles on it.. Even though everything is fine now, I want to eventually overhaul its motor. Will an 11mm Oil Pump from newer models fit/work ok on my ‘05 OXT?
It's not on the turbo. It's on the top of the block underneath the intake manifold towards the rear. You may have to lift the intake manifold a little to get to it. Not sure what other parts.
idk if the 255's have a pre-turbo cat in the up-pipe (like the older engines do) but that thing is what killed our turbo. Either way its still a psa for others in the comment section, i wish i knew, woulda saved a grand...
You mention about getting a bigger filter like the Mazda one. In Australia they sell the MIJ black filter. Should the black filter be just as good vs the larger Mazda filter?
I've been running 5w30 for the past two oil changes. 100,000kms. Is it normal for some oils causing noisier tappet noises than others with the same viscosity
Nice info bud, about to purchase my 3rd Suby asap and it's gotta be a 257. I'm also a tech and have been scouring for decent info to avoid anything in the future with my next ride.. glad I've been sub'd, this is awesome man! Thanks again
I picked up a 2005 OBXT really cheap this summer that had a turbo failure that sent metal all through the engine. The fun started with trying to find a used replacement motor. #1 was found to have damage before it was shipped. #2 supposedly was a 90,000 mile motor but looked like it had more like 190,000 miles with a well used aftermarket timing belt. #3 suffered the same issue the original motor had, before I installed it I found pieces of turbo bearing in the oil pan and scoring on the cams and journals, so back it went. #4 had the same issue again but was discovered before the motor was shipped. I'm currently prepping #5 to go in this weekend. Hopefully this is a good one! Check those banjo bolt screens!
I spoken to a couple of guys out in California and they have said forget using the stock stuff and use the megasquirt when you do a conversion set up I know that you had said in your video make sure that you do a tune on the car when you start adding a whole bunch of aftermarket parts so do you think the megasquirt is a good set up to run or should I just use the regular stock setup and just get it tuned
I use either the OEM or K&N EZ on both of my turbo subies... Would the small filter affect the NA EJs the same way as the turbos or would they be fine? Thanks!
It’s crazy how some oil filters are so damn small for the engine. I use a M1 EP oil filter on my G37S for the most part but use a bigger filter that has The same diameter and thread pitch because the OEM looks like it’s made for a damn lawnmower
I'd like to point out that Mazda RX-8 engine oil filters fit Subaru engines. They are a longer filter like the older Subaru OEM filters. The bypass spring rating is 20.3-26.1psi and the Mazda filter is manufactured by Tokyo Roki just like the OEM Subaru filters are for pretty much everywhere except North America.
Mazda Part# N3R1 14 302
The Porsche 944 oil filter fits on the SVX (EG33) perfectly.
Mazda part #n3r114302
Tokyo Rokis
In Australia we get the black Japanese filters though I don't think I've heard of people have oil issues with them even though they seem small for a 2.5l engine. Even my 2.0 Impreza NA uses a bigger filter
@@Flies2FLL Watch this th-cam.com/video/18ctlBsRcGs/w-d-xo.html. This is the best filter you can get easily for your EJ.
Most knowledgeable pair of hands you'll ever meet!
Can you point out where the banjo bolt is located please? I'd like to change mine!
Great video by the way keep it up man you'll be getting tons of subs in no time
I second this
It is under the intake manifold towards the back. The banjo bolt connects the line that feeds the turbo and the variable valve timing up front. You can remove the filter from it but you must use the factory bolt because of orifice size.
The Subaru god has spoken! Perfect tips for my 2010 Subaru Forester XT!!! Thanks!
Wow thanks. I just bought an 05 Forester XT with 173k miles. I will do all these things.
Good man
Great video. So many videos 'explaining' problems only go as far as saying 'This is the issue... moving on' Super informative as always. Your channel has helped me a lot on my Subaru and I'm glad to see content has always been top tier!
Great video as always! These cars can be reliable if taken care of. My 2004 wrx has 240,000 miles on it. It still has the factory motor, turbo, transmission, and rear differential. I couldn't have said it better myself. These videos are fantastic!
That is awesome! I just picked up a 2006 wrx with 130,000 miles on it. What have you done to get so many miles out of yours?
@@shawnmacgavin9774 drove it all over new england for years.
I have a 05 legacy with a 180k miles, every stock
Hello Mr. Subaru, you make excellent points on EJ255 failures, and how to avoid them, I have an 06 legacy 2.5l GT not knowing how hard this engine was run before I got it was scary. I changed oil & filter right away, always check the oil. Drive the speed limit, give it a little gas in the corners, it is so much fun then back off. No open throttle or wild street racing. I agree with everything you said about the top failures of Ej 255 engines, it came with a n AEM cold air intake and an aftermarket exhaust . I will be looking for a stock air intake, just found a dedicated Subaru bone yard fairly close by. Thanks for all the right on info, so far it's been s cool ride, .....
definitely take the banjo filters out. iv seen most wrx and sti's turbos fail between 40k and 80k. those filters clog extremely fast.
So , these "failures" were NOT the fault of BAD design by Subaru, but by obtuse owners going along with the hype for synthetic oil longevity, and NOT changing oil EVERY 4000 miles(IN a TURBO engine). If you buy a car WITH A TURBO and DON'T understand how critical FREQUENT oil changes are, you should NOT be buying these types of vehicles!! Btw, OIL (even synthetic) is DIRT CHEAP!!!
First off great video! Would you consider doing a video going over all the different Subaru ej type engines and the key differences please. I know it'd be time consuming, but it'd be so interesting!
I actually had someone suggest this last week. It may take a while to film, but I would like to. I have in my possession an EJ18, EJ22E, EJ222, EJ251, EJ253, EJ25D, EJ255, EG33, EZ30D, and EZ36D. I'd need an EJ205 and EJ257 to cover basically all US market Subaru engines from 1993+.
@@MrSubaru1387 awesome! Thank you so much, and take as much time as you need! It'll be a permanent download video for sure!
@@MrSubaru1387 just do it! Love the videos! Thank you and have a Merry Christmas!
@@MrSubaru1387 do they need to be good? I can find some examples with damage. Maybe make it a donation?
@@MrSubaru1387 I would love to see one about the EJ20X/Y. It is a very interesting engine.
I just learned everything about my Subaru motor in one video! Very well-done dude. Makes so much sense.
Thank tou for providing this informstional video. I intend on doing an ej255 swap on my bugeye and this is extremely useful information. Keep doing what you do.
you should fix the Boeing 737 max 8
Really well explained video. Back in the day, I used to build race engines (amateur), so I came into this from a mechanical background. Your explanations are accurate, complete, and clear. It is too bad that manufacturers find themselves pushed to make changes for marginal benefit, but significant long-term risk. A car that is scrapped before its time negates every environmental benefit that was gained.
Great video! Would be cool to see a possible collab with enginerring explained??
How in the world would I get a collab with a million+ subscriber TH-camr? Haha
@@MrSubaru1387 I think he likes smart people... ;) Love your vid Btw!
Question, Where is this banjo bolt?
How hard is it to access it and take out the filter?
Thanks in advance Nick
Had a 2015 Crosstrek, Subaru recommended oil changes I believe every 10,000 Km. The oil looked like sludge even when doing oil changes every 7,000 Km using mobil 1 0W-20 Full Synthetic. They want people to destroy engines lol.
yup i had my vf48 turbo go bye-bye @73K miles due to clogged banjo bolt filter, but i did change my oil every 3 months, thankfully STI was under warranty :)
Hey! Great videos, very informative and useful. What do you think of the cylinder 4 cooling mod?
I did mine good mod do it
I would also like to mention that along with taking the turbo out thanks to that filter screen in the banjo bolt, It will also starve the AVCS solenoid of oil as well and may possibly cause the cam to chew into in the front cam cap.
Do you have any way I could email/contact you for some questions I have.
MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
Another spot-on video. I've learned a lot from your channel (just found it recently).
The '05 OBXT we bought from a Subaru tech in Detroit suffered the banjo bolt filter failure that did kill the turbo, then the engine at 112K. He bought the car from the customer, put in a newer short-block, and replaced the turbo. After reading about these sort of issues before I bought that car, I quickly took it to a tuner to get rid of any factory lean running programming (and honestly, put in a little freer exhaust at the same time). A little more power, and less worries long-term, well worth the cost.
It is interesting how Subarus are so sensitive to the intake side of the air stream. Unplug a Subaru MAF sensor and it won't run at all (been there done that by mistake after I put in fresh injectors at 200K). No fallback to ECU map / O2 sensor readings to compute fuel mixtures like most Euro/Bosch ran vehicles.
I'll have to look into that Killer-B oil pickup, sounds like a good idea, and possibly the larger oil pump down when it needs a rebuild. Keep up the vloging!
Hi man, I love your videos. They're very helpful. Would the turbo failure point also apply to a 257? I have a 2006 Forester XT auto, and there is a small amount of white smoke coming from down in the passenger side of the engine well. It has smelled on short drives since I bought it, but that usually went away quickly. It is getting worse lately, and the visible smoke just started. It might also be worth mentioning that its getting cold out...
The 257 is in the STi. Your Forester XT is an EJ255
@@MrSubaru1387 I'm stupid, lol. Yeah you're right. I am pretty certain whats actually happening in my case is the valve cover gasket is leaking. But I've been wrong before.
This is an outstanding video that really explains a lot. Hopefully people who add a bunch of extra mods on their 255/257 watch this first.
Late reply, but I bought a Subaru Legacy GT that I suspect has a slight crack in one of the piston rings. Slightly too much oil consumption, but no smoke or anything crazy, wish me luck! Anyways:
I checked the service history of the car and there is no documentation of a PCV valve having been replaced. I did this myself. This part is extremely important to keep cleaned out in your turbocharged car, especially one with cast pistons!
The previous owner also said he started to have issues with the car only when he threw on a turboback exhaust, turbo inlet, and removed the TGVs. The car should absolutely be kept stock bar a professional tune on a dyno.
Hi Mr. Subaru, I cant find a throttle body assembly for my 2005 LL Bean Outback 3.0R. How can I buy one, do you have one for sale...desperate in Tampa Fla.
Is that Banjo bolt on a ej20 too? 2001 bugeye and if yes, where is the bolt located so I could check on mine?
I am looking to purchase a STI and I was very worried about all of these problems. I am not as worried anymore and I thank you good sir.
Does the 2004 Forester XT have to worry about these EJ255 problems? Or is it every EJ255, not just 2005 and onwards?
Thank You!!! Really appreciate what you're doing and loving the new format.
Which higher capacity oil filter brands do you suggest? Are the 12mm oil pumps JDM only items, or will they work on our USDM vehicles? And will the upgrades mentioned work on NA/Non-Turbo vehicles?
Again, Thanks loads.
Definitely change that pickup tube out. I changed my 06 STI one to the Killer B in 2011 and it was cracked pretty badly. I caught it just in time and thankfully the car is still running great.
18:00 Jesus were was the warning nearly shit myself 😅 if only the rest of your audio was that loud 😜
Love all Subaru’s I am subaru crosstrek owner 🚗👨🏻🔧
Excellent video thank you! The only comment I have is there’s substantial debate on whether to increase the oil pump size from 10mm to 11mm for single AVCS EJ25s. My question is does the Non-STi EJ (10mm) run with lower than optimal oil pressure?
Thanks for this video man! 2005 Subaru Baja turbo.
OMG mr subaru finally talks!!
Yup. Lol
@@MrSubaru1387 hahaha finally! Keep up the amazing work my man!
Just copped a 2011 STi. Changed my oil today. 5W-40. Factory also trying to get better fuel economy recommends 5W-30. Real Subaru guys know better.
The Filter is smaller on the outside but what about on the inside material surface area and length.
Eg, the White K&N Filters are tiny compared to others like half the size but they have 45% more material/surface area on inside than OEM Filters.
Not sure about 2.5L as i would never have one as its just same block as 2.0L bored out too big.
Ringland Failure in most cars is 95% the drivers fault for LSPI and not downshifting when overtaking or going up a hill.
You DO NOT ever floor it WOT under 60mph in top gear.
Amazing video! Ive got a 2011 wrx and i am ordering an invida N1 catback (Non resonated). Tons of people say you can go catback with no tune. Is this true? Or should i be worried and get a tune?
Typically it's the young guys who buy these turbo cars thinking they have a WRC on their hands. Sometimes it's their first car and they know nothing about caring for the engine at all. They are in the mind set of "I now have a race car, lets race everyone" and then they cry to mom/dad or the dealer that after a few races the engine is broken. I myself used to have this mindset; but I was too poor and couldn't get my hands on a wrx or 2.5rs. I got a 95 Legacy at the time with the ej22e. It was a 5 speed though. I have learned you really should just drive the car for about a year before you start mods. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS if you start mods; like turbo or even upgraded turbo do the supporting mods first. Most of the time your engine is plenty powerful; do transmission work, make that one stronger, upgrade your brakes, upgrade the tires before you upgrade engine components. A ton of power is useless if you can't put it to the pavement. But these kids don't really understand that part. Heck I see and hear a lot of them will buy the latest STi and then at the tire/wheel shop spending over a grand on new rims/tires. Car won't even have 5k on it. I have always gone by the philosophy of get used to the car first before you do things to change the setup.
Awesome vid ! I knew about everything except for the that screen within the banjo bolt.
Had a 2006 WRX and that banjo bolt filter was completely clogged at 60k miles just fyi, take that filter out ASAP!
I just got a Subaru Baja with the ej251 NA. Can you or have you done a review on it?
To put the larger oil filter on does that require anything other than just Screwing it on just as you would with the other one? Also if I get it from Subaru which one do I ask for to get the larger one I have a 2004 FXT thanks for the great video!
Well done, +1 on the people buying aftermarket parts, intakes, exhausts and turbos and then not having the car tuned on a dyno by a pro.
Gets them everytime.
Mad props homes, very helpful!!
Perfect.
You answered multiple questions I had!
Yep... First two issues my 2005 Legacy GT suffored from.. Its Expensive to fix both!
Glad I found this knowledge! Thank you.
He is one of the few people that I trust information from besides mrt performance in australia. He speaks the truth and knows what he is talking about.
Just bought my banjo bolt today and I'm tearing into it This weekend thanks for the tip. Also where do you source your parts? I own three Subaru's and I'm always looking for a good source of quality parts.
Subaruparts.com, Amazon, or my local dealer.
Did you remove the filter?
I have a 2006 wrx ej255 with the single avcs. Would you recommend installing a jdm 12mm oil pump instead of the stock 10mm oil pump? Thanks for the advice.
stock is more than fine for stock power
Thanks for explaining the issues surrounding this engine and what we can do and avoid. I have a 67k '12 wrx, change my oil and filter every 3k, but I really need a reliable car that won't keep me second guessing(weekly trips to doc appt for medical condition). I even considered selling it. Would having the car tuned so that it is not so lean increase the reliability if I do keep the car? Thank you very much. -Ron
Yes, a tune would help reliability. Thanks!
@@MrSubaru1387 Even if the car is stock? Since you mentioned the stock tune was problematic.
Is there an interchangeable oil filter that's bigger that we can use in the ej255 engine?
It's better to save more money and buy an STI 305 hp. Instead of ej255. Ej257 is a lot better.
hermes alejandro cerdenia no
Can you make a video how to bleed the coolant in one of these engines? I have a lot of issues when it comes to bleeding my 2006 wrx. I use a spill free funnel and OEM fluids but I always have a hard time doing it or it wont bleed right and it takes couple days to do it.
Actually planning a coolant replacement video as soon as weather permits.
Would you do one on the ej257? Thanks
If I can get my hands on one. Mainly all the same issues as the EJ255.
#2.3 - Consult Mr. Subaru prior to modifications.
Great Video man! Keep it up :)
Like#420 - Woo!
Thank you very much sir.... Subscribed
very informative
About the oil pump, bigger doesn’t always mean better. If you have a 10 mil and upgrade to a 12 mil with stock pan, you can actually outflow and have the less oil in the pan than desirable. Only upgrade up a size. Ex. 10 -> 11 or 11->12 mil
Great video as usual. On the oil filter does subaru still make a larger oil filter that will work on the ej255?
Subaru USA does not. I've heard you can get it from outside sources though.
Hi, thanks for the great video. Are ALL of the 2.5L engines EJ255 or there are certain years? Are these only turbos?
The EJ255 is the turbocharged DOHC 2.5L found in Legacy GT, Outback XT, Baja Turbo, Forester XT, and WRX.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks! Wondering if you could you do a similar video for non-turbos? Unless there is one already. That would complement this well.
Love your content. Thanks again
Last week's video was for the N/A engines.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks I missed it! Was trying to find some clues whether I may get affected by the head gasket issue with my 2.5i 2011 Impreza, and it looks like I might... :(
MrSubaru1387 did they make the tune for the 06 wrx leaner as well? Just curious, going to buy one this week. Thanks!!
Help... 15 STi won't make more than 5lbs of boost. Ran a smoke test no visible leaks. Car was fine one day sat over night got in the next day and it is noticably quieter. No exhaust pops nothing almost like a non turbo car. No weird noises, no cel, dam is at 1.0. could the BCS taken a shit? I'm lost my mechanic and I can't figure it out. Stock car with muffler deletes. 60k miles. Anyone had this issue any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
If you replaced the head gasket, and your exhaust is smoking. White and burning oil whats the possible cause im running 350 hp on a 2012 wrx
Nice! thanks!
Typically i just grab a Nissan 65F0E-9E01A for the titans and frontiers and use that on my subaru, Its a longer filter and has good construction and its only about 8$ a filter.
1. Bought 2014 wrx non sti from a lifelong friend. She used 87 Octane. Bad.
2. Had it 2 weeks, added Cobb stage 1 tune. Loved it.
3. 2 weeks later added AEM cold air intake. Test drove, spun bearing. (87 octane big contributer)
4. Just bought an EJ20 take-out from Japan and will swap all parts from mine to the 20.
5. Took pictures of all the numbers on the motor. Do they indicate what year/make/model the engine was in?
6. The ej20 has the AVCS on the intake only like my 255.
7. Does the ej20 need the turbo oil pickup, and oil pump replaced? Or should I leave the oil pump in the ej20 and the oil pickup? Ej255 turbo will go on the ej20.
8. Should I install an external oil cooler?
Thx for the help for this old guy new to subies!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to explain things thoroughly. A couple days ago I bought an 06 Outback XT that is super clean with 125K miles on it, I got a good deal and can afford to spend a few thousand if necessary to make it right. The turbo has failed and I have codes P0011 and P0302. I just cut the oil filter and there is metal in it for sure, it isn’t an insane amount, you have to take it out in the sun to see the glitter in the very bottom of the filter can, but it is there for sure. I am struggling with how far to go with the repairs to have the best chance of making it reliable for another 100K miles. Do I need to pull the oil pan? Would it be easier to pull the whole engine and at that point do head gaskets, timing belt as well? Is there an oil cooler that should be flushed? Or just change the turbo, pull the screens out of the banjo fittings, several quick oil changes and roll with it? I was wondering what you think is the best course of action, understanding there are no guarantees and an engine failure is always possible once there is metal, I just don’t want to throw everything at it if 90% of the time less work works out ok.
Hey are you by chance near Ga I’m in the north Georgia area and I have a motor that needs new bearings and gone through also a transmission that needs some love both out of an 2015 sti. Was wondering if I could pay you to repair and might make some good informational videos for viewers as well
Thanks buddy.....really help others.....
Where is the banjo oil filter located?
I have a 2011 wrx, i change the oil between 3-4k miles. Had it since 68k miles. Got 120k now, probably due for some work before it goes. I already burn too much 5 30 oil. I put 5 40 in it last oil change, ill see how its doin
The main let down on the ej255 was factory cast pistons. Sti had all the goodies 6spd and factory forged pistons. Also, the factory oil pick up did have issues but corrected with a killer bee or aftermarket oil pick up. Tunning is a key factor in owning one and also having the right mods to suite.
only the jdm v7 sti had forged pistons, and it was a 2.0, everything else has hypereutectic cast pistons.
@Travis H cast pistons are nasty however my rods on the ej255 good for about 250kw
cast will last longer
Is it safe to buy/mount a filter, either older or newer model that is longer/bigger? Or do these turbo ej255 motors only accept this specific little filter? I wonder if other filters like WIX are a bit bigger than stock..
Great video, crucial tips!
My ‘05 Outback XT has a whopping 210K miles on it.. Even though everything is fine now, I want to eventually overhaul its motor. Will an 11mm Oil Pump from newer models fit/work ok on my ‘05 OXT?
Good job explaining bro
Thank you. 👍🏻
Great video! Is the banjo bolt in the turbo easily accessible and serviceable?
It's not on the turbo. It's on the top of the block underneath the intake manifold towards the rear. You may have to lift the intake manifold a little to get to it. Not sure what other parts.
thank you, very helpful
Except on my 09 xt the bolt is behind my timing belt assembly case or w.e you wanna call it so I broke the back side of the plastics for it
idk if the 255's have a pre-turbo cat in the up-pipe (like the older engines do) but that thing is what killed our turbo. Either way its still a psa for others in the comment section, i wish i knew, woulda saved a grand...
You mention about getting a bigger filter like the Mazda one. In Australia they sell the MIJ black filter. Should the black filter be just as good vs the larger Mazda filter?
I've been running 5w30 for the past two oil changes. 100,000kms. Is it normal for some oils causing noisier tappet noises than others with the same viscosity
Also would you do a video like this on the EZ30? I'd love to hear what goes wrong with those before I go rebuilding one! haha
I'm editing that video as we speak... Err, well text. Haha. Filmed it yesterday.
Badass! I love these videos. Especially now that you talk 😂
Nice info bud, about to purchase my 3rd Suby asap and it's gotta be a 257. I'm also a tech and have been scouring for decent info to avoid anything in the future with my next ride.. glad I've been sub'd, this is awesome man! Thanks again
Is there a newer OEM Subaru engine oil filter that is maybe longer/bigger that would fit the ej255 to help it perform better?
21:57 How to get Longer Life
change my oil every 6 months which is about 3K KM's more town driving more oil changes.
I picked up a 2005 OBXT really cheap this summer that had a turbo failure that sent metal all through the engine. The fun started with trying to find a used replacement motor. #1 was found to have damage before it was shipped. #2 supposedly was a 90,000 mile motor but looked like it had more like 190,000 miles with a well used aftermarket timing belt. #3 suffered the same issue the original motor had, before I installed it I found pieces of turbo bearing in the oil pan and scoring on the cams and journals, so back it went. #4 had the same issue again but was discovered before the motor was shipped. I'm currently prepping #5 to go in this weekend. Hopefully this is a good one! Check those banjo bolt screens!
Thanks , nice video.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Yall sound like a young Mr. Rogers sometimes.
😂
I spoken to a couple of guys out in California and they have said forget using the stock stuff and use the megasquirt when you do a conversion set up I know that you had said in your video make sure that you do a tune on the car when you start adding a whole bunch of aftermarket parts so do you think the megasquirt is a good set up to run or should I just use the regular stock setup and just get it tuned
I use either the OEM or K&N EZ on both of my turbo subies... Would the small filter affect the NA EJs the same way as the turbos or would they be fine? Thanks!
It’s crazy how some oil filters are so damn small for the engine. I use a M1 EP oil filter on my G37S for the most part but use a bigger filter that has The same diameter and thread pitch because the OEM looks like it’s made for a damn lawnmower
My turbo seems to have stopped working. How to I remove the union bolt?
I have a wrx 2011 sedan, is it advised to remove all banjo bolt mesh? or just the turbo area?
What about that pesky power steering o ring that always makes a sound in winter even though you replace it?
Can I just ask why a lot of other tuners put the blame on the design of the hypereutectic pistons in the 2.5?
I changed my oil after 3000 miles anyway but this good to know