Anything larger than a coca-cola can diameter is a total pia with a folding saw. Especially if its oak. Also "reading" the wood. If it's too knarly and twisted, it's a better piece used after the campfire is well up and rolling. Just my experience.
You were spot on about military objectives, at least from when I was in. In survival training at that time, We never started any fires. We didn’t build any shelters. We did dig holes, so an E-tool was a constant companion. It could dig, cut, saw, and be a last ditch weapon. The knife, if you had one, was mainly used as utility knife. The bayonet was for combat. I don’t know if that’s even a thing anymore, but we had them. I still have an E-tool on my pack and in my vehicle, and pocket knives everywhere. Thanks for the video.
As I think about survival situations, I live in the suburbs. I usually won't have a large knife available unless I'm at home or in/near my car. In those scenarios, I could keep a variety of tools (wouldn't need 1 knife). If I'm camping, I'll also have a few tools. I suppose if I'm hiking, I could see only having 1 knife then. I wish I'd thought of these things before buying 4 or 5 "survival knives" 😏
@@mountaingoattaichi or in your haversack/backpack or are you going with your knife and nothing else? But eventually you can attach to your belt (many do it)
What about a 4-5” fixed blade survival knife and a small blade, either folder or fixed. Thats a light and useful survival possibility. Interesting topic.
Not necessarily. We ain’t hiking to Guatemala. Im pretty sure most can handle a few extra grams of weight. I use larger knives often in the backcountry because I enjoy their use and I can beat the hell out of them. I often bring a BK9 on my belt and a smaller bushcraft knife in my pack and a small axe/saw. Never had issues getting where I need to go. Man up and lift some weights boys
I use my saw infinitely more than my knife when I’m outdoors. These TH-cam “survivalists” are silly. I’ve never needed to whack a log repeatedly with my knife for any useful reason ever. Most of what he’s whacking in this video could have just been snapped in half by hand lol. I also have never needed a machete to cut a pineapple in half either.
I spent some time in the infantry and carried a blade about the size of a BK9. It was quite popular with the guys in my platoon, and everyone always asked to borrow it for cutting down brush and small trees for camouflaging positions. Almost everybody carried a small knife but nobody thought about the bush tasks a larger tool would be good for.
was torn between bk7 and 9, chose 9 in the end. probably one of THE best knives in its category, bar the slippery handles. i've paired my bk9 with Mora companion and it works nearly flawless in 99% of times i need knife.
Another EXCELLENT video Aaron. I love the way you communicate your intended message in a clear, concise manner. Whether people are old time Bushcraft/ campers or new jacks, everyone can gain some knowledge from your videos. Well done.
The point of a survival knife is that I'm always going to be carrying a large combat fixed blade anyway because I appreciate them as a compliment to a pistol, so there's no reason why it can't be durable and hefty enough to do basic camp chores at the same time, given that these capabilities don't really compromise it's effectivenes as a weapon at all. A good survival knife combined with a light folding saw elimate the need for a hatchet in most cases.
I strongly agree with carrying more than one knife. I prefer a midsized knife (4 1/2 -6 inch blade, a folding saw, and a Case Trapper pocket knive. The weight of a saw and folding pocket knife is minimal, but can do a lot of tasks. This was a great topic. Thanks!
A few years ago, my wife ordered an “essential oils” kit. In it came a few tiny glass containers, presumably to transport small amounts of essential oil with you on trips. I found the size & weight to be perfect for carrying mineral oil with me for blade maintenance in the field! I carry one whenever I’m out camping & hiking.
I have a plastic squeeze bottle I carry grape seed oil for cooking in and it works well in the field for my tools in a pinch. A little bit of oil is very handy to have in the field for touching up tools. A 100% beeswax candle is handy if you have leather in your kit as well.
My old school ESEE 4 in 1095 has never failed me! Of course I've never used it in a survival situation. If I had to, I am confident it would be up to the task, doing everything I need it to do.
I'll stick with what Mors Kochanski recommended. A blade the width of your palm, that you can hammer into a tree, and then stand on, with a Scandi grind. I also have a Laplander saw for cutting through trunks. Far lighter and more efficient.
I think that the closest that we would actually come these days in a knife being a "survival knife" would be a knife that is used in a show like Alone. Where people actually rely on a few implements to "survive"
The British army MOD4 is the survival knife. It's inexpensive, you can throw it at an assailant, you can chop trees down with it, use it as a hammer, pry things open with it and even use it as a knife.
I prefer the Martindale Golok myself (also especially when blunt fondly called "the tree beater"). It seems they aren't made in the UK now though although mine was.
Thanks, Aaron. You're absolutely right - a lot of what makes a good survival blade depends on the environment, and that can be quite a puzzle, and ultimately requires some compromise. For my current environment, my best compromise is probably my Condor Stainless Mini Duku Parang. It's long enough and light enough to do some machete work, thick enough and tough enough to clear, chop, split, and baton harder, woodier vegetation, nimble enough and sharp enough to do fine carving and food prep, easy to maintain, and most of all, it's STAINLESS. I should have got another one before they discontinued it.
I love survival knives. But. I have found the plain old 18 inch Latin Machete to be my go to land clearing tool. If I found myself in a survival situation I would definitely want to have a machete and a good pocket knife. If I had to choose only one, it would be the machete.
Remember the Les Stroud Arctic knife? Cheap enough to throw in your car's trunk if you can find one on the used market, and large enough to be useful in a get-home scenario. It's not ideal for anything, but just good enough for most. Add a folding saw, space blanket, bic lighter and a surplus poncho, and you might make it home.
Great discussion piece!! Always a hot topic - 'what is a survival knife'. OMHO is comes down to properly assessing your own scenarios. Very different needs between alpine, jungle & desert. For me the focus points are; versatility (must perform a range of tasks), robustness (able to withstand hard & intense use) and to lesser degree maintenance (can be maintained in the field). Plenty of good blades out there as long as you get one to meet your needs. My current go-to is my trustee ESEE 6. Sharp blades all.
Regarding folding saws - they'll eventually bind on a push stroke and bend (I don't know why I know this). That doesn't make them completely unusable, because you can sorta bend them back, enough to be able to fold again. Also, folding saws I've used have thicker blades than bow saws, which translates directly to more effort sawing.
A lot of the folding saws with the exception of Bahco Laplander, are pull stroke only and the push part should have no downward force. No bending and bind ups. If you want a 2 way stroke go the the Laplander and not a Japanese style folding saw Just fyi
@@bobjohnson1633 This is 100% spot on. I've been into wood working for the past 30 or so years and it's the first piece of advice when teaching others to use a saw properly - let the saw do the work. Excess pressure on just about any saw will cause binding and gripping. All you need is enough pressure to keep the blade in the cutting track and maintain contact with the wood. Have a great day.
Properly set teeth make the thickness of the blade irrelevant as it makes the kerf a hair wider than the blade. Nothing out cuts a Silky unless it has a motor.
I would love to bring some of the pioneers and hard core explorers from 200 year's ago into the 21st century and see what they had to say about all out "advanced" survival gear. Personally I'd love to drop some of these survival experts in the Aussie bush with a No 8 opinal and say see you in a week !
00:40 Hopefully I don't comment as I watch (bad habit). The expenditure of energy when chopping with a hatchet V a survival knife is a quandary. Would you expend that much energy carrying both a hatchet and knife? But then, I guess when we're talking 'survival knife', it's the one you wear on your belt just in case you lose everything else.
I just wanted to mention that the Hogue EX-F01 has a wrench in the sheath, allowing you to adjust the T8s on the handle if they come loose, or remove them to turn it into a spear with a bit of paracord. It even has a very, very small space on the inside part of the handles to store some fishing line and a hook.
I'm from SE Asia and aware of knives in your review. We don't deal with hardwood shelter as we have millions on bamboos. So we go out with either a golok or duku machetes. My late grandfather in the 1930s-40 for fire they used traditional fire piston but the tradition has died so we use lighters now. Tactical survival knives are made to break through vehicle metal, barb wire, mines and door locks.
I watched a documentary about Siberian trappers several years ago. These guys go out in the middle of winter for several months at a time. They used a smaller 2-handed axe, similar to a boy's axe, most often. They even built their deadfall traps with these axes.
In their hands, a small axe can do about anything. If you have a pocket knife, or a small neck knife, and an axe, I don’t know what you couldn’t do realistically. And, a pocket/neck knife, weighs almost nothing.
Awesome video. A lot of great information. If I had to choose one knife for a “survival knife” it would probably be my Condor Toki. Small enough to do a lot of jobs, big enough to handle the firewood or shelter building, and built like an absolute tank.
It’s really really useful to use a knife for making very small cooking fires that I can then use to seed the main fire later. Being able to comfortably easily split wood down to very small bits and feather sticks.
To me they are all camp knives and you bring what you expect to need. When I expect to use my knife a lot the handle ergonomics are more important to prevent hand fatigue. Besides my SAK a fixed blade 'survival' knife is when I don't expect to use it at all but I bring it just in case. Now the handle ergonomics are less important but ease of carry (throw in your pack and don't worry about it) are more important. Many knives out there that will do the job but the Fallkniven F1 with the flip over leather sheath is a nice example. Sturdy enough (for batoning) lightweight enough, the sheath will keep the knife safely inside. It will even fit is a small day pack with no problem.
I used to do this concept with my Schrade SCHF9 (15.7 oz) but I now carry a Condor Bisonte fixed blade plus a Samurai saw - the combination weighs about the same (17 oz) as my old Schrade but is more effective on processing wood.
I have the SCHF9, one of the original ones. It was within my budget, which was one of the main reason I got it (hundreds of dollars is a bit steep for me. The handle was too small for me so I wrapped in paracord. Now it’s perfect. I wanted 1/4” thickness for that peace of mind (I virtually CANNOT break it!), so it was the Becker BK2 or the SCHF9. I chose the 9 because of it’s blade length and I liked the recurve blade (it does help in cutting) and I like the look better. Also, I liked the 9 because it has more tactical capability than the Becker. (you never know!) Great video, thanks.
I would say since most exposed tang knives have skeletonized tangs that a thick and properly radiused “stick” tang is just as good with the benefit of having no exposed metal for cold environments. Granted, properly done through tangs are harder to find.
My go-to for many years now has been my trusty ESEE 6. Helped me through a couple of survival/emergency type situations with no problems. For a bit more reach a Junglas would be an excellent option. Getting a bit $$$ but OMHO worth it as it will last years with some basic maintenance. Have a great day.
I have a Becker BK9 that for almost a decade has been put through absolute hell. When paired with a quality pocket knife its sufficent to cover numerous roles and ultimately save weight
Great video for discussion. We can plan to have the right tools, we generally can’t plan to have them on the day the survival crisis happens. If you only have a 2 inch pocket knife when you fall or get pushed off the train, that’s what you’ll have to survive with. True survival situations are never planned.
This is never what anyone is talking about when discussing survival knives. A response like yours is entirely unhelpful when we’re talking about what makes a knife ideal to survive with.
Get a Panawal from Great Ghurka Kukri. I don't understand why Westerners despite being all about survival seem to overlook a traditional panawal kukri. On top of that, the best Kami in the world makes them super quick and cheap. Take advantage of the acquisitive power of the USA
I have an old panawal that has seen a lot of hard use, and continues to see hard use from me. Very efficient and rugged. I didn't know the name of this type of Kukri.
Any knife that you personally can make a fire with. Depends on the person and the environment. In some scenarios, you might want to consider what size of knife you can have on your person at any given time. Because you might not get to grab your bag before it sinks. In a pinch, you really just need to make the tinder to get the flame going.
Good blade, I really have to trick it out with micarta scales and kydex, then it becomes a $200 knife and the M7 blows it out of the water at that price.
Great perspective on the topic, Aaron. Like you I rarely have just one knife when I'm out. In addition to my BK2, or my Hogue EX-F01, I usually keep a folding saw, pocket knife and a small scandi-style blade in my vehicle/pack as well. But if I was in a long-term survival, or extended outdoor situation, and limited on what I could bring, I'd take a larger tool like my Tops SXB Skullcrusher, or Kershaw Camp 10.
Thanks Aaron. I also like my survival knives to be somewhat tactical (Silent Hero or Prather War Bowie) both fitting this requirement as well as other tasks.
I always carry two knives (and a bunch of basic survival gear) when out in the bush one for food prep and skining tasks one as a survival/ bushcraft knife but that's my preference and what I found works for me 😁 that's why I loved this video at the end he's recommending for people to try there gear out before the actually need to use it and it's great advice
I wonder how it would work to have removable scales that had a hollow compartment towards the blade that could be weighted with maybe preformed lead weights to be added for chopping and such. Not sure if it would be forward enuff to help but just crossed Mt mind
Great synopsis. As a one stop outdoors tool a RangerWood 55 Victorinox/Wenger is compelling. It blends really well in travels on all trails even ones where people are sensitive and precious even though the saw and blade are a very functional size and design. A rare intersection of classic woodsy, functional, modern multitool, and classy. Wrap the corkscrew in 24 Gauge soft brass wire and with a bic lighter you will survive well fed and warm.
The biggest problem is legality. If you can legally carry a large fixed-blade knife concealed, take the largest and heaviest one you are comfortable carrying and a folding knife or small fixed blade for small tasks. The second (or third, or fourth, or fifth) knife is not against the idea of the survival knife as the one you use to survive an unforeseen crisis with what you carry on your body.
I think, at a minimum, if I was heading out camping/hiking, I'd carry one of my Pocketboys, one of my full tang knives, and my Golok (I'm yet to buy a decent hatchet/axe).
General purpose knife is a treat topic, but also a reality. I have added the CS trailmaster as my always carry outdoor camping and short hiking knife. Axe and saw stay at camp. If I need light for overnight hiking, it's a solid 5" do everything knife unless I know I will have specific needs. I agree a 7" would be a single choice if I had to choose a knife for every situation.
I have never seen that sharpening technique you were using on that WorkSharp Guided Field Sharpener. Is there a name for that? Or would it just be how to put a convex edge on? I’ve been learning to sharpen for like 4 years now and I’ve never seen anyone do that. I feel like that’d be tough to remain consistent.
hi aaron, the lionsteel T6 has been that happy medium for me lately. I'm curious on your take of the T6 if you can review one would be interesting to see you review one.. keep up the good work buddy!
I totally understand not wanting to lug around an axe, but a 240mm Silky Pro is very light and well worth the effort… which frees you up to pick any 5-6” fixed blade you want. Fwiw.. my one-n-only shtf option is a TRC Apocalypse, notable runner up is the TKC 5.5 and 6.5 in 3v.
Thanks Aaron! This is a perfect video for me to share with people who ask me for "survival knife" advice! Keep up the good work!! My 2 cents - get a blade that's easy to resharpen in the field. High end steels are good for pocket knives. Prather war Bowie has been my go to "survival knife" (paired with my Victorinox Huntsman of course) for 2 years now (based on your recommendation of course). Bk7 for almost a decade before that. Just today I had to chop down a bamboo shoot to make a hiking stick for my buddy who cramped up during a hike. The heft and razor sharp edge of the war Bowie made short work of the bamboo shoot and all this was done in less than a minute. I live in India where it's quite humid, but if you take good care of your knives, corrosion can be completely avoided. I'll be getting a tops Bushcrafter Kukuri next month - let's see how that performs!
Ok Aaron… I got a question for ya… or whatever… I’m going to do a complete build out and customization of a survival knife. Cost isn’t an issue.. I have more knives than I need.. 2- Esse 6’s and even an Architect field buddy 6.5… all are built custom projects and I’ve used them but REALLY want to do a Becker build. If it were you would you build out a BK7.. or Bk 9..? I thought the Architect 6.5 was it, but I’m not happy with the differential heat treat it has…
BK9 if you are going to add a choil. It’s is just a little too front heavy for me as a survival knife without one. If that is something you don’t want to do or don’t like choils then the BK7 for sure better balanced for the finer tasks on its own.
@@gideonstactical you are the bomb..! That was my choice anyway… I just liked hearing your feedback…..! I don’t need the one tool option… I just want to have it..! Thank you sir…!👍
Outstanding vid, Aaron! You know as well as I do that this topic would start an internet fistfight on your average knife forum, and that's not even taking into consideration the "You should NEVER baton with a knife...That's what axes are for!" contingent. Me(?), I'll just stick with my TOPS 107E. (*-1 for being .25" thick, -1 for 22 ozs, and maybe another -1 for 1095...although not for me) Like most of us "knife" guys, it'd be next to impossible to find me without a reputable/capable folder in my pocket. And, beyond that, my 107 rarely (*if ever) rides without a Bahco Laplander in tow. I have enough time with my 107 that it'd be the first knife I'd grab in "The Apocalypse"...and I have a buttload of more expensive/"prestigious" knives. Great content, as usual. Keep it comin'! 👍
You should try out the Woodsman by Origin Knives. It's a hybrid Khukuri Tracker with an actual saw on the spine. I've used it (one tool) for shelters, fires, kuksa, spoons and even carving a chess set. The idea that a big blade is cumbersome for carving is a myth. Chopping is far more efficient with a knife that is designed to do the task with a proper convex edge.
I always have a folding saw with me, when I'm hiking. It is so much quicker to cut wood. The saw I use is the Stanley Folding Pocket saw, used primarily by dry waller's. It uses 6 inch long reciprocating saw blades that you can get at any box store, hardware store or home center. Plus there is storage on the saw itself to carry three extra blades. As for a axe, I prefer a good tomahawk. To this end I will carry the Cold Steel Hudson Bay Tomahawk. A very good cutting edge and it has a hammer side. As for a knife, I have about 3 dozen to choose from.
I usually do carry a sog seal pup elite and able to split small logs just fine...i do also carry a small saw on my backpack so it doesn't occupy much space... carrying a knife that weights 12 to 18 oz can be cumbersome as well...like the video and good job Aaron 👍👍
I have been using my Topps “Kukri”… I can easily get feather sticks, chops better than anything. It’s a beast. I’m never in the woods without it. Can’t say enough about it. Love ur channel
Saws are underrated and fairly lightweight. Rather have a Laplander and a Companion Spark than something like a Schrade 9. Not a hiker in the mountains, but I do have acreage with woods.
I know I posted already, but I have a question for you. What do you think of Buck knives? Specially the sheath knives in the 100 series? I've carried the Buck 105 Pathfinder for years and it has served me well. But then I never chop or baton wood with a knife. I now own a Khukuri with a 6 inch long blade. Full exposed tang, 5160 high carbon spring steel, from Kathmandu Nepal. I've reworked the edge to a nice 20 degree scandi edge, with my Ken Onion Work Sharp. I think this knife would be able to chop and split wood, since that is what it was designed to do. I actually have three Khukuri knives. Yes I am a knife collecting addict. I am now just waiting for the Buck 117 to come out, which Buck says it will by end of the month.
Silky, Ontario Raider Bowie - or - Esse Laser Strike, and a Mora for me. Of course I always carry my SAK for small things and food prep. If I had to choose just one and only one, it would be the Laser Strike without hesitation!
My choice of proper ‘survival knife’ kit would be a proper Nepalese kukri (MK1 or 2 type model) by Kailash Blades or Heritage Knives and a small knife (Mora or Helle type leuko or the Opinel foldable). Then you are fixed to do a lot of survival and bushcraft chores. I have tried many combinations over the years and came to this one 🌟
Maybe this isn't the proper platform to push this knife, as it's only available through the designer, but the Aurora Borealis Kodiak Chopper: Steel: SK-85 57-58hrc Handles: G10 OAL: 15.25 inches Blade: from handle 9.75 inches sharp 9.25 inches Grind: Primary (flat sabre) secondary (convexed edge) Thickness: approx 0.27 inch Weight: approx 1lb12oz (sheath add 7oz) Sheath: kydex with nylon belt loop from Canada is definitely a "one tool option", as the videos will attest to. I'm also a big fan of the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri.
@@glbwoodsbum2567 I'm not usually prone to purchasing custom or semi-custom knives, but I am a spec reader & took a chance on this original design & have developed a great respect for this Guy's vision.
I put a question about "survival knives" up on the Australian Blade Forums a couple years ago as you hear so much in the knife world about them. I started thinking, in what survival situation would I find myself where I would have the right sort of knife on me? I thought about if I was on a ship sinking in the middle of the ocean, on a plane about to crash into the mountains where I survived the crash, or in the middle of a desert. In any of these situations either a knife would be of little use or you would not have any knife on you, therefore is the concept of a "survival knife" one that knife manufacturers have latched onto to sell more products? Do people genuinely believe they will carry this "survival knife" with them 100% of the time they leave their house and travel to wherever in whatever?
Thanks for presenting the 101 class. I think soma knife reviewers haven’t taken a freshman class. And thanks for this sponsor link. Planning to look at it. I’ve been wanting the product for a long time, even thought a couple of days ago of creating it! Years back I quit using both the old mil. plastic due to never losing the plastic taste and quit metal/stainless because I’ve had too many freeze even partly full and have seen breaks. I’ll keep Nalgene, thank you. Also, bags are for fire emergencies as an extra supply! Also, interesting that you left big knives for another day! 😊
This is a great video that helps others utilize an experienced outdoorsman's, bushcrafter's, survivalist's and camper's knowledge, expertise and experience. In the video closing, I would have liked to have seen several of the knives that you formally consider as the knives you use and would use in such a situation and not just showing knives as an example regardless of your personal choice. Although, I have to believe that those knives shown that meet the guidelines were your personal choices and the ones you take with you.
It's definitely a personal choice. I'm comfortable with an esee 4 in all situations ever, but a larger knife outdoors or a smaller knife in the city fill different niches.
👍 Very good explanation of the mysterious (at least to me) “survival knife”. I believe I will stick with my small belt knife and hatchet or saw combination. However, if one knife was to become my choice it seems either the KaBar BK9 or possibly the KaBar BK62 would be the best choices. But, we shouldn’t forget the Strömeng 9” leuku.
@@canadafree2087 We agree. The phrase that always seemed silly to was, “the Bushcraft knife is what you use if you want to live in the wild lands, the survival knife is what you use if you need to escape the wild lands”. Why wouldn’t the knife use existing in the back country be the best knife to help you exit the back country? Another TH-camr used a phrase in one of his videos, “use the proper tool for the job”. Really like your screen name “Canada&Free”.
The problem is in the premise. My question is always "survive what?". This video and most people define "survival" as a focus on wood processing, fire-making and maybe some shelter building. The chance of this type of "survival" is extremely rare given that 80% of Americans live in an urban area (50K+ people continuous area). Again, I recommend we replace the term "survival knife" with "Back Country" or "Wilderness" knife.
@@papimaximus95 You make an excellent point about the term “survival”. However, isn’t a “Back Country” or “Wilderness” knife just simply a “Bushcraft” or “Camping” knife? Another person who responded to my comment suggested the whole idea of a 5” to 9”, 1lb.+/- knife being necessary for survival was simply a marketing scheme. I wonder how much thought the 18th Century Longhunters and 19th Century Mountain Men gave to the concept of a “survival” knife. Seems like like they did just fine with basically butcher style belt knives and folding knives. Everyday was an exercise in some form survival for them.
@@ROE1300 "However, isn’t a “Back Country” or “Wilderness” knife just simply a “Bushcraft” or “Camping” knife?" It could be. However, I can see how you may want a more capable knife if you know you are going deep into the wilderness versus around the camp fire. Heck, I bring a cordless chainsaw with me when camping. Hard to take that on a 3 day deep woods trail hike.
Thanks for a informative overview! I recently watched your review of the Tops Brush Wolf and I believe you were using it in their video as well…how does it meet some/all of the qualities you mentioned? Be well!
A plus in a survival situation is that high carbon steel blades are able to shoot sparks from a piece of flint or chert to produce a fire if you have no other fire making equipment.
I would think a hatchet for chopping and a small 3-4” knife for carving/fine cutting would be preferable to one large 7-8” blade and not that much more cumbersome to carry.
I agree Tom. The conclusion you came to is one that many outdoor enthusiasts and survival experts have come to. These ideas have been laid to rest many many years ago
I have almost all the Beckers, a few KBars, a couple of Essees, and a couple of Helle's. I am considering the new Helle Nord. I am very impressed with it as a survival knife. I have a couple of other knives I am also considering. Overall, I am convinced that a good axe, A Swedish or American hand axe is the all around best survival tool. How the edge is shaped and also the rear of the axe needs to be considered for hammering. But an axe can be used for virtually every chore a knife can do minus maybe a couple of things. The one tool option can also be applied to a well created and designed tomahawk. For knives I count how many chores it can do and most of all durability and sharpenability - field maintenance . For fighting, my knife is dedicated for that purpose and that purpose alone and it has to accompany a whole array of techniques in fighting. I have found that a seven to nine inch razor sharp knife that slices through heavy rope, large diameter rope, is the best for me. This gives me advantages in distance and depth of impact along with knife twisting in internal organs for maximum damage. One can literally chop a person's head off and a whole host of radical damages. It can aid in fending off the opponents weapons. In mortal combat, there is no such thing as a fair fight and is not for the feint hearted. The only objective is to kill. A lot of nice guys might think just cutting off an ear will end the fight, it won't and being a nice guy will get you killed. So before anyone engages in a knife fight they better consider it better to avoid rather than engage. Only get into a knife fight as last resort and your life depends on it or the life of others. Make certain the opponent is dead, you don't want a lawsuit haunting you after a fight, even if he started it. Knife fights are rare even in armed combat but knowing how to handle yourself and your killing tool ahead of time may save your life. I have a lot of respect for Helle and Morakniv for crafting, trapping and virtually anything that requires precise carving or notching. Even Mors Kochanski had great respect for Morakniv. Two great knives I have much respect for are my BK-9 and my Becker Khukri. The Khukri in particular. It chops a little deeper than the 9 and is a great drawknife. It is one of the best Beckers in existence. The Becker you showed in this video is in a class all it's own and I love mine. I have a rare Becker Bowie, not the combat Bowie, that is really good but I have to wear gloves because of hot spots. I have used it maybe three times and retired it as a collectable and it is mint or near mint. The only reason I used it was to test it against the Khukri and the BK 9. I sharpen all my knives to near razor after each day of use whether in the field or at home, same thing with axes, hatchets and machetes. My axes and hatchets and tomahawks are all razor sharp, it is both impressive and practical for carving tasks or debarking, etc. Oh well, I have a big mouth as I am saying too much. I guess being a 70 yr. old deactivated Marine does that to me on subjects I love. You take care, God bless you and thank you for your hard work and all of your interesting information. Will be awaiting your next video !
in a survival situation, a brushcutter scythe. It does all the work mentioned in the video and even knocks down medium-sized trees if necessary and is an excellent defensive weapon at the end of a stick. the brushcutter scythe is far superior to a knife as a survival tool.
For me, Tops Longhorn Bowie and Prather War Bowie and Terava’s Jaakaripuuko and Skrama 200 are amazing “survival” knives. I prefer heavier knives, this is where the Jaakaripuuko falls short. I don’t like exotic steels, even though I have quite a few knives in “super steels”. For me the best steels I’ve used so far are 1095, 80CRV2, SR-101 (52100 w/ Busse proprietary heat treat.) and 5160. Field sharpening is one of the top things I look for in a survival knife. My Top 3 survival knives so far are Tops Longhorn Bowie, Skrama 200 and Scrapyard Knives DB-421. I carry a Tops Tex Creek and a Buck 110 LT everyday, so I guess they’re actually my survival knives for now.
On a different note, I just watched a video on an experienced hiker, Stephen Olshansky. He died a few years ago hiking the CDT in Colorado I believe. Are you familiar with his story?
@@gideonstactical I watched a video that was posted three weeks ago by Kyle Hates Hiking Channel. It was titled something like "every hikers worst nightmare". Stephen Olshansky "Otter" was an experienced hiker and had hiked the three longest trails in the US several times. He made a mistake or had an error in judgement. Here a link if you're interested. th-cam.com/video/cajFMKgOUZc/w-d-xo.html
I don't think a knife being stainless is gonna do much for you in a short term survival situation. I'd much rather have the high carbon knife that is easier to sharpen. When you are using a tool everyday you pretty much rub all the rust off of it while you are working.
@@bobjohnson1633 Modern powder-metallurgy stainless steels probably provide the best compromise for every conceivable situation. Ease of sharpening vs. edge-holding... I'm guessing you'd have to get very finicky with the variables (weather, how long you have to "survive") to make final calls. I live in a Austria, Europe, where rain is common and it snows occasionally. Stainless steels make it so I don't have to be mindful of dirt/water. Toughness is probably comparable when looking at 3V (semi-stainless) or Magnacut.
@@bobjohnson1633 I live in New England near the ocean salt water and I don't have that problem. Going dull in a few hours? I have nothing against Stainless steel I just think it isn't as neccesary as the survival community acts like it is. Just strop your knife once or twice if it has a dot of rust on the edge, not the end of the world.
Great video! I agree with all your points. I think “a survival knife is the knife you have in a survival situation” is silly. That’s an obvious statement. Anytime someone is asking about a survival knife they’re talking about something designed for survival.
Ever notice that people who baton wood with their survival knife, are splitting wood cut up with a chain saw. 😁
Anything larger than a coca-cola can diameter is a total pia with a folding saw. Especially if its oak. Also "reading" the wood. If it's too knarly and twisted, it's a better piece used after the campfire is well up and rolling. Just my experience.
Or a camp saw……
Ever heard of a hand saw ??
@@WildBill1851 hey now. Some ppl are at different stages of outdooring
Clearly never heard of the Silky big boy. I take that camping and I've cut torso sized logs with it
My head hurt from watching that sharpening at 14:47
Same! I was surprised there aren't more comments about it.
You were spot on about military objectives, at least from when I was in. In survival training at that time, We never started any fires. We didn’t build any shelters. We did dig holes, so an E-tool was a constant companion. It could dig, cut, saw, and be a last ditch weapon. The knife, if you had one, was mainly used as utility knife. The bayonet was for combat. I don’t know if that’s even a thing anymore, but we had them. I still have an E-tool on my pack and in my vehicle, and pocket knives everywhere. Thanks for the video.
As I think about survival situations, I live in the suburbs. I usually won't have a large knife available unless I'm at home or in/near my car. In those scenarios, I could keep a variety of tools (wouldn't need 1 knife). If I'm camping, I'll also have a few tools. I suppose if I'm hiking, I could see only having 1 knife then. I wish I'd thought of these things before buying 4 or 5 "survival knives" 😏
The point is that a 4" knife plus a folding saw weight less than a big knife, about 450g for the combo and are much more useful
That is true but you have to put both on your belt.
@@mountaingoattaichi or in your haversack/backpack or are you going with your knife and nothing else? But eventually you can attach to your belt (many do it)
What about a 4-5” fixed blade survival knife and a small blade, either folder or fixed. Thats a light and useful survival possibility. Interesting topic.
Not necessarily. We ain’t hiking to Guatemala. Im pretty sure most can handle a few extra grams of weight. I use larger knives often in the backcountry because I enjoy their use and I can beat the hell out of them. I often bring a BK9 on my belt and a smaller bushcraft knife in my pack and a small axe/saw. Never had issues getting where I need to go. Man up and lift some weights boys
I use my saw infinitely more than my knife when I’m outdoors. These TH-cam “survivalists” are silly. I’ve never needed to whack a log repeatedly with my knife for any useful reason ever. Most of what he’s whacking in this video could have just been snapped in half by hand lol. I also have never needed a machete to cut a pineapple in half either.
I spent some time in the infantry and carried a blade about the size of a BK9. It was quite popular with the guys in my platoon, and everyone always asked to borrow it for cutting down brush and small trees for camouflaging positions. Almost everybody carried a small knife but nobody thought about the bush tasks a larger tool would be good for.
Awesome!!
was torn between bk7 and 9, chose 9 in the end. probably one of THE best knives in its category, bar the slippery handles. i've paired my bk9 with Mora companion and it works nearly flawless in 99% of times i need knife.
Exactly!!! You drew your conclusions from Real World experience.
Another EXCELLENT video Aaron. I love the way you communicate your intended message in a clear, concise manner. Whether people are old time Bushcraft/ campers or new jacks, everyone can gain some knowledge from your videos. Well done.
I appreciate that!
The point of a survival knife is that I'm always going to be carrying a large combat fixed blade anyway because I appreciate them as a compliment to a pistol, so there's no reason why it can't be durable and hefty enough to do basic camp chores at the same time, given that these capabilities don't really compromise it's effectivenes as a weapon at all. A good survival knife combined with a light folding saw elimate the need for a hatchet in most cases.
I strongly agree with carrying more than one knife. I prefer a midsized knife (4 1/2 -6 inch blade, a folding saw, and a Case Trapper pocket knive. The weight of a saw and folding pocket knife is minimal, but can do a lot of tasks. This was a great topic. Thanks!
Great combination!!!
A few years ago, my wife ordered an “essential oils” kit. In it came a few tiny glass containers, presumably to transport small amounts of essential oil with you on trips. I found the size & weight to be perfect for carrying mineral oil with me for blade maintenance in the field! I carry one whenever I’m out camping & hiking.
Hey man, it’s okay
I have a plastic squeeze bottle I carry grape seed oil for cooking in and it works well in the field for my tools in a pinch.
A little bit of oil is very handy to have in the field for touching up tools.
A 100% beeswax candle is handy if you have leather in your kit as well.
Eye drops bottle.
My old school ESEE 4 in 1095 has never failed me! Of course I've never used it in a survival situation. If I had to, I am confident it would be up to the task, doing everything I need it to do.
That was the Esee 6
I'll stick with what Mors Kochanski recommended. A blade the width of your palm, that you can hammer into a tree, and then stand on, with a Scandi grind. I also have a Laplander saw for cutting through trunks. Far lighter and more efficient.
Very true my friend. A lot of these academic discussions should have been laid to rest many years ago.
I think that the closest that we would actually come these days in a knife being a "survival knife" would be a knife that is used in a show like Alone. Where people actually rely on a few implements to "survive"
A used blade never rusts 😊
The British army MOD4 is the survival knife. It's inexpensive, you can throw it at an assailant, you can chop trees down with it, use it as a hammer, pry things open with it and even use it as a knife.
I was looking for this very comment. I totally agree. Much maligned but still the best.
I prefer the Martindale Golok myself (also especially when blunt fondly called "the tree beater"). It seems they aren't made in the UK now though although mine was.
@Wayne Holmes that's not a knife, it's a machete and a completely different tool.
@@wayneholmes637 you can get them from the bushcraft store in the UK for forty quid.
Thanks, Aaron. You're absolutely right - a lot of what makes a good survival blade depends on the environment, and that can be quite a puzzle, and ultimately requires some compromise. For my current environment, my best compromise is probably my Condor Stainless Mini Duku Parang. It's long enough and light enough to do some machete work, thick enough and tough enough to clear, chop, split, and baton harder, woodier vegetation, nimble enough and sharp enough to do fine carving and food prep, easy to maintain, and most of all, it's STAINLESS. I should have got another one before they discontinued it.
I didn't know they made that in stainless. Gonna have to check it out. Thank you , sir!
I read the last line of your comment as I was hitting send. Looks like I missed it.
@@charlessalmond7076 sadly, they discontinued it last year. You may be able to find one on the secondary market though.
Nice!!
I love survival knives. But. I have found the plain old 18 inch Latin Machete to be my go to land clearing tool. If I found myself in a survival situation I would definitely want to have a machete and a good pocket knife. If I had to choose only one, it would be the machete.
Remember the Les Stroud Arctic knife? Cheap enough to throw in your car's trunk if you can find one on the used market, and large enough to be useful in a get-home scenario. It's not ideal for anything, but just good enough for most. Add a folding saw, space blanket, bic lighter and a surplus poncho, and you might make it home.
Great discussion piece!! Always a hot topic - 'what is a survival knife'. OMHO is comes down to properly assessing your own scenarios. Very different needs between alpine, jungle & desert. For me the focus points are; versatility (must perform a range of tasks), robustness (able to withstand hard & intense use) and to lesser degree maintenance (can be maintained in the field). Plenty of good blades out there as long as you get one to meet your needs. My current go-to is my trustee ESEE 6. Sharp blades all.
Esee 6
One of the best choices!
That or the Junglas II
Regarding folding saws - they'll eventually bind on a push stroke and bend (I don't know why I know this). That doesn't make them completely unusable, because you can sorta bend them back, enough to be able to fold again. Also, folding saws I've used have thicker blades than bow saws, which translates directly to more effort sawing.
A lot of the folding saws with the exception of Bahco Laplander, are pull stroke only and the push part should have no downward force. No bending and bind ups. If you want a 2 way stroke go the the Laplander and not a Japanese style folding saw
Just fyi
I have long since learned to use very little force and let the saw do the work, no matter the saw
@@bobjohnson1633 This is 100% spot on. I've been into wood working for the past 30 or so years and it's the first piece of advice when teaching others to use a saw properly - let the saw do the work. Excess pressure on just about any saw will cause binding and gripping. All you need is enough pressure to keep the blade in the cutting track and maintain contact with the wood. Have a great day.
Properly set teeth make the thickness of the blade irrelevant as it makes the kerf a hair wider than the blade. Nothing out cuts a Silky unless it has a motor.
@@asmith7876
The more wood that has to be removed during The Cutting process is definitely relevant
I would love to bring some of the pioneers and hard core explorers from 200 year's ago into the 21st century and see what they had to say about all out "advanced" survival gear.
Personally I'd love to drop some of these survival experts in the Aussie bush with a No 8 opinal and say see you in a week !
00:40 Hopefully I don't comment as I watch (bad habit). The expenditure of energy when chopping with a hatchet V a survival knife is a quandary. Would you expend that much energy carrying both a hatchet and knife? But then, I guess when we're talking 'survival knife', it's the one you wear on your belt just in case you lose everything else.
I just wanted to mention that the Hogue EX-F01 has a wrench in the sheath, allowing you to adjust the T8s on the handle if they come loose, or remove them to turn it into a spear with a bit of paracord. It even has a very, very small space on the inside part of the handles to store some fishing line and a hook.
The best knife to have in a survival situation is the one you have on you. A survival situation usually happens when you are not ready for it.
I'm from SE Asia and aware of knives in your review. We don't deal with hardwood shelter as we have millions on bamboos. So we go out with either a golok or duku machetes. My late grandfather in the 1930s-40 for fire they used traditional fire piston but the tradition has died so we use lighters now. Tactical survival knives are made to break through vehicle metal, barb wire, mines and door locks.
I watched a documentary about Siberian trappers several years ago. These guys go out in the middle of winter for several months at a time. They used a smaller 2-handed axe, similar to a boy's axe, most often. They even built their deadfall traps with these axes.
In their hands, a small axe can do about anything. If you have a pocket knife, or a small neck knife, and an axe, I don’t know what you couldn’t do realistically. And, a pocket/neck knife, weighs almost nothing.
Awesome video. A lot of great information. If I had to choose one knife for a “survival knife” it would probably be my Condor Toki. Small enough to do a lot of jobs, big enough to handle the firewood or shelter building, and built like an absolute tank.
It’s really really useful to use a knife for making very small cooking fires that I can then use to seed the main fire later. Being able to comfortably easily split wood down to very small bits and feather sticks.
To me they are all camp knives and you bring what you expect to need. When I expect to use my knife a lot the handle ergonomics are more important to prevent hand fatigue. Besides my SAK a fixed blade 'survival' knife is when I don't expect to use it at all but I bring it just in case. Now the handle ergonomics are less important but ease of carry (throw in your pack and don't worry about it) are more important. Many knives out there that will do the job but the Fallkniven F1 with the flip over leather sheath is a nice example. Sturdy enough (for batoning) lightweight enough, the sheath will keep the knife safely inside. It will even fit is a small day pack with no problem.
I used to do this concept with my Schrade SCHF9 (15.7 oz) but I now carry a Condor Bisonte fixed blade plus a Samurai saw - the combination weighs about the same (17 oz) as my old Schrade but is more effective on processing wood.
I have the SCHF9, one of the original ones. It was within my budget, which was one of the main reason I got it (hundreds of dollars is a bit steep for me. The handle was too small for me so I wrapped in paracord. Now it’s perfect.
I wanted 1/4” thickness for that peace of mind (I virtually CANNOT break it!), so it was the Becker BK2 or the SCHF9. I chose the 9 because of it’s blade length and I liked the recurve blade (it does help in cutting) and I like the look better.
Also, I liked the 9 because it has more tactical capability than the Becker.
(you never know!)
Great video, thanks.
I would say since most exposed tang knives have skeletonized tangs that a thick and properly radiused “stick” tang is just as good with the benefit of having no exposed metal for cold environments. Granted, properly done through tangs are harder to find.
So many choices, so many opinions. I think the ESEE Junglas is pretty good for an all around survival knife that is durable and cost effective.
My go-to for many years now has been my trusty ESEE 6. Helped me through a couple of survival/emergency type situations with no problems. For a bit more reach a Junglas would be an excellent option. Getting a bit $$$ but OMHO worth it as it will last years with some basic maintenance. Have a great day.
My survival knife is my BK14 Eskabar it goes everywhere I do.
Great video
I have a Becker BK9 that for almost a decade has been put through absolute hell. When paired with a quality pocket knife its sufficent to cover numerous roles and ultimately save weight
Aaron. Between the Lionsteel t6 and the rieff f6 leuku which would u prefer for outdoor activities
Great video for discussion. We can plan to have the right tools, we generally can’t plan to have them on the day the survival crisis happens. If you only have a 2 inch pocket knife when you fall or get pushed off the train, that’s what you’ll have to survive with. True survival situations are never planned.
Very true, one must always be prepared.
This is never what anyone is talking about when discussing survival knives. A response like yours is entirely unhelpful when we’re talking about what makes a knife ideal to survive with.
I really like the knife used in the point in the video at 15 min 13 sec. Can someone please tell me what knife that is?
Reiff F6 th-cam.com/video/f01mfs7wJKU/w-d-xo.html
Get a Panawal from Great Ghurka Kukri. I don't understand why Westerners despite being all about survival seem to overlook a traditional panawal kukri. On top of that, the best Kami in the world makes them super quick and cheap. Take advantage of the acquisitive power of the USA
I have an old panawal that has seen a lot of hard use, and continues to see hard use from me. Very efficient and rugged. I didn't know the name of this type of Kukri.
Any knife that you personally can make a fire with. Depends on the person and the environment.
In some scenarios, you might want to consider what size of knife you can have on your person at any given time. Because you might not get to grab your bag before it sinks. In a pinch, you really just need to make the tinder to get the flame going.
My favorite survival knife, Becker BK7
Good blade, I really have to trick it out with micarta scales and kydex, then it becomes a $200 knife and the M7 blows it out of the water at that price.
Great perspective on the topic, Aaron. Like you I rarely have just one knife when I'm out. In addition to my BK2, or my Hogue EX-F01, I usually keep a folding saw, pocket knife and a small scandi-style blade in my vehicle/pack as well. But if I was in a long-term survival, or extended outdoor situation, and limited on what I could bring, I'd take a larger tool like my Tops SXB Skullcrusher, or Kershaw Camp 10.
Thanks Aaron. I also like my survival knives to be somewhat tactical (Silent Hero or Prather War Bowie) both fitting this requirement as well as other tasks.
I always carry two knives (and a bunch of basic survival gear) when out in the bush one for food prep and skining tasks one as a survival/ bushcraft knife but that's my preference and what I found works for me 😁 that's why I loved this video at the end he's recommending for people to try there gear out before the actually need to use it and it's great advice
I wonder how it would work to have removable scales that had a hollow compartment towards the blade that could be weighted with maybe preformed lead weights to be added for chopping and such. Not sure if it would be forward enuff to help but just crossed Mt mind
Great video! A part 2 with knife recommendations?
I also strongly agree that everyone should go beat on their knives Abit before thinking you have full trust in them.
Great synopsis.
As a one stop outdoors tool a RangerWood 55 Victorinox/Wenger is compelling.
It blends really well in travels on all trails even ones where people are sensitive and precious even though the saw and blade are a very functional size and design.
A rare intersection of classic woodsy, functional, modern multitool, and classy.
Wrap the corkscrew in 24 Gauge soft brass wire and with a bic lighter you will survive well fed and warm.
The biggest problem is legality. If you can legally carry a large fixed-blade knife concealed, take the largest and heaviest one you are comfortable carrying and a folding knife or small fixed blade for small tasks. The second (or third, or fourth, or fifth) knife is not against the idea of the survival knife as the one you use to survive an unforeseen crisis with what you carry on your body.
Which axe is that? Been looking for a mid size axe, longer than a hatchet but not so long as full size.
I think, at a minimum, if I was heading out camping/hiking, I'd carry one of my Pocketboys, one of my full tang knives, and my Golok (I'm yet to buy a decent hatchet/axe).
General purpose knife is a treat topic, but also a reality. I have added the CS trailmaster as my always carry outdoor camping and short hiking knife. Axe and saw stay at camp. If I need light for overnight hiking, it's a solid 5" do everything knife unless I know I will have specific needs. I agree a 7" would be a single choice if I had to choose a knife for every situation.
I have never seen that sharpening technique you were using on that WorkSharp Guided Field Sharpener. Is there a name for that? Or would it just be how to put a convex edge on? I’ve been learning to sharpen for like 4 years now and I’ve never seen anyone do that. I feel like that’d be tough to remain consistent.
Good question, yes it is to maintain a convex edge. If you look up a few videos they show a similar technique. Rocking the blade or the stone. 👍
hi aaron, the lionsteel T6 has been that happy medium for me lately. I'm curious on your take of the T6 if you can review one would be interesting to see you review one.. keep up the good work buddy!
I totally understand not wanting to lug around an axe, but a 240mm Silky Pro is very light and well worth the effort… which frees you up to pick any 5-6” fixed blade you want.
Fwiw.. my one-n-only shtf option is a TRC Apocalypse, notable runner up is the TKC 5.5 and 6.5 in 3v.
Thanks Aaron! This is a perfect video for me to share with people who ask me for "survival knife" advice! Keep up the good work!!
My 2 cents - get a blade that's easy to resharpen in the field. High end steels are good for pocket knives.
Prather war Bowie has been my go to "survival knife" (paired with my Victorinox Huntsman of course) for 2 years now (based on your recommendation of course). Bk7 for almost a decade before that.
Just today I had to chop down a bamboo shoot to make a hiking stick for my buddy who cramped up during a hike. The heft and razor sharp edge of the war Bowie made short work of the bamboo shoot and all this was done in less than a minute.
I live in India where it's quite humid, but if you take good care of your knives, corrosion can be completely avoided.
I'll be getting a tops Bushcrafter Kukuri next month - let's see how that performs!
I enjoyed that! Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject
Glad it was helpful!
Ok Aaron… I got a question for ya… or whatever… I’m going to do a complete build out and customization of a survival knife. Cost isn’t an issue.. I have more knives than I need.. 2- Esse 6’s and even an Architect field buddy 6.5… all are built custom projects and I’ve used them but REALLY want to do a Becker build. If it were you would you build out a BK7.. or Bk 9..? I thought the Architect 6.5 was it, but I’m not happy with the differential heat treat it has…
BK9 if you are going to add a choil. It’s is just a little too front heavy for me as a survival knife without one. If that is something you don’t want to do or don’t like choils then the BK7 for sure better balanced for the finer tasks on its own.
@@gideonstactical you are the bomb..! That was my choice anyway… I just liked hearing your feedback…..! I don’t need the one tool option… I just want to have it..! Thank you sir…!👍
Outstanding vid, Aaron! You know as well as I do that this topic would start an internet fistfight on your average knife forum, and that's not even taking into consideration the "You should NEVER baton with a knife...That's what axes are for!" contingent. Me(?), I'll just stick with my TOPS 107E. (*-1 for being .25" thick, -1 for 22 ozs, and maybe another -1 for 1095...although not for me) Like most of us "knife" guys, it'd be next to impossible to find me without a reputable/capable folder in my pocket. And, beyond that, my 107 rarely (*if ever) rides without a Bahco Laplander in tow. I have enough time with my 107 that it'd be the first knife I'd grab in "The Apocalypse"...and I have a buttload of more expensive/"prestigious" knives. Great content, as usual. Keep it comin'! 👍
My Bark River Crusader is my first pick for a survival knife. It's heavy and thick for hard stuff but can also do smaller tasks.
3V?
@@litsci4690 yes 3V
@@robfromaz1977 Then we have the very same SHTF knife. Great minds . . . .
You should try out the Woodsman by Origin Knives. It's a hybrid Khukuri Tracker with an actual saw on the spine. I've used it (one tool) for shelters, fires, kuksa, spoons and even carving a chess set. The idea that a big blade is cumbersome for carving is a myth. Chopping is far more efficient with a knife that is designed to do the task with a proper convex edge.
I always have a folding saw with me, when I'm hiking. It is so much quicker to cut wood. The saw I use is the Stanley Folding Pocket saw, used primarily by dry waller's. It uses 6 inch long reciprocating saw blades that you can get at any box store, hardware store or home center. Plus there is storage on the saw itself to carry three extra blades. As for a axe, I prefer a good tomahawk. To this end I will carry the Cold Steel Hudson Bay Tomahawk. A very good cutting edge and it has a hammer side. As for a knife, I have about 3 dozen to choose from.
nice choice; i prefer slightly heavier thawk (rifleman hawk from cs) though. cant go wrong with cheap saw, far easier to saw that cut ;)
@@ApocGuy Oh, I have the Rifleman's Hawk, and its a heavy one. I've even put it on a longer handle. So its more like a small axe now.
to me the "one tool option" is a suggestion
i see it as one system like a large knife with a ferro rod, small knife, and wire saw in one sheath
I usually do carry a sog seal pup elite and able to split small logs just fine...i do also carry a small saw on my backpack so it doesn't occupy much space... carrying a knife that weights 12 to 18 oz can be cumbersome as well...like the video and good job Aaron 👍👍
Would you consider the TKC Architect Field Buddy 5.5 a survival blade?
It’s right on the verge
I have been using my Topps “Kukri”… I can easily get feather sticks, chops better than anything. It’s a beast. I’m never in the woods without it. Can’t say enough about it. Love ur channel
Esee 6 was my go to until I got the Junglas 2 . Perfect knife for my needs and environment.
Both excellent options. My go-to is the ESEE 6 and it's never let me down. Have a great day.
Saws are underrated and fairly lightweight. Rather have a Laplander and a Companion Spark than something like a Schrade 9. Not a hiker in the mountains, but I do have acreage with woods.
I mean yah. Who the hell is going to have more than a Swiss army knife when they get shipwrecked...
Got a bk 2, 10 , 7 , and 9. I enjoy using them.
I know I posted already, but I have a question for you. What do you think of Buck knives? Specially the sheath knives in the 100 series? I've carried the Buck 105 Pathfinder for years and it has served me well. But then I never chop or baton wood with a knife. I now own a Khukuri with a 6 inch long blade. Full exposed tang, 5160 high carbon spring steel, from Kathmandu Nepal. I've reworked the edge to a nice 20 degree scandi edge, with my Ken Onion Work Sharp. I think this knife would be able to chop and split wood, since that is what it was designed to do. I actually have three Khukuri knives. Yes I am a knife collecting addict. I am now just waiting for the Buck 117 to come out, which Buck says it will by end of the month.
What’s the top knife in the title image?
Reiff knife F6
Great points I like the bigger style blade
I keep an ESEE 6 or TKC Architect 6.5 with me when I’m out and about in the woods.
Silky, Ontario Raider Bowie - or - Esse Laser Strike, and a Mora for me. Of course I always carry my SAK for small things and food prep. If I had to choose just one and only one, it would be the Laser Strike without hesitation!
My choice of proper ‘survival knife’ kit would be a proper Nepalese kukri (MK1 or 2 type model) by Kailash Blades or Heritage Knives and a small knife (Mora or Helle type leuko or the Opinel foldable). Then you are fixed to do a lot of survival and bushcraft chores. I have tried many combinations over the years and came to this one 🌟
Bro I 100% agree on the kukri. Great Ghurka Kukri is the best no doubt tho
Maybe this isn't the proper platform to push this knife, as it's only available through the designer, but the Aurora Borealis Kodiak Chopper: Steel: SK-85 57-58hrc
Handles: G10
OAL: 15.25 inches
Blade: from handle 9.75 inches sharp 9.25 inches
Grind: Primary (flat sabre) secondary (convexed edge)
Thickness: approx 0.27 inch
Weight: approx 1lb12oz (sheath add 7oz)
Sheath: kydex with nylon belt loop
from Canada is definitely a "one tool option", as the videos will attest to.
I'm also a big fan of the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri.
That is a great knife you have there!!
@@glbwoodsbum2567 I'm not usually prone to purchasing custom or semi-custom knives, but I am a spec reader & took a chance on this original design & have developed a great respect for this Guy's vision.
I put a question about "survival knives" up on the Australian Blade Forums a couple years ago as you hear so much in the knife world about them. I started thinking, in what survival situation would I find myself where I would have the right sort of knife on me? I thought about if I was on a ship sinking in the middle of the ocean, on a plane about to crash into the mountains where I survived the crash, or in the middle of a desert. In any of these situations either a knife would be of little use or you would not have any knife on you, therefore is the concept of a "survival knife" one that knife manufacturers have latched onto to sell more products? Do people genuinely believe they will carry this "survival knife" with them 100% of the time they leave their house and travel to wherever in whatever?
Oi, will have none of that common sense talk on here thank you.
@@craigshugg2332 Sorry, I'll be quiet now 😜
Thanks for presenting the 101 class. I think soma knife reviewers haven’t taken a freshman class. And thanks for this sponsor link. Planning to look at it. I’ve been wanting the product for a long time, even thought a couple of days ago of creating it! Years back I quit using both the old mil. plastic due to never losing the plastic taste and quit metal/stainless because I’ve had too many freeze even partly full and have seen breaks. I’ll keep Nalgene, thank you. Also, bags are for fire emergencies as an extra supply! Also, interesting that you left big knives for another day! 😊
Could you please tell me what brand of Nessmunk knife you were using in the video?
This is a great video that helps others utilize an experienced outdoorsman's, bushcrafter's, survivalist's and camper's knowledge, expertise and experience. In the video closing, I would have liked to have seen several of the knives that you formally consider as the knives you use and would use in such a situation and not just showing knives as an example regardless of your personal choice. Although, I have to believe that those knives shown that meet the guidelines were your personal choices and the ones you take with you.
It's definitely a personal choice. I'm comfortable with an esee 4 in all situations ever, but a larger knife outdoors or a smaller knife in the city fill different niches.
👍 Very good explanation of the mysterious (at least to me) “survival knife”. I believe I will stick with my small belt knife and hatchet or saw combination. However, if one knife was to become my choice it seems either the KaBar BK9 or possibly the KaBar BK62 would be the best choices. But, we shouldn’t forget the Strömeng 9” leuku.
No mystery brother, just stupid marketing. But as they say in the field, "It it works, it ain't stupid". People buy into the survival knife marketing.
@@canadafree2087 We agree. The phrase that always seemed silly to was, “the Bushcraft knife is what you use if you want to live in the wild lands, the survival knife is what you use if you need to escape the wild lands”. Why wouldn’t the knife use existing in the back country be the best knife to help you exit the back country? Another TH-camr used a phrase in one of his videos, “use the proper tool for the job”. Really like your screen name “Canada&Free”.
The problem is in the premise. My question is always "survive what?". This video and most people define "survival" as a focus on wood processing, fire-making and maybe some shelter building. The chance of this type of "survival" is extremely rare given that 80% of Americans live in an urban area (50K+ people continuous area). Again, I recommend we replace the term "survival knife" with "Back Country" or "Wilderness" knife.
@@papimaximus95 You make an excellent point about the term “survival”. However, isn’t a “Back Country” or “Wilderness” knife just simply a “Bushcraft” or “Camping” knife? Another person who responded to my comment suggested the whole idea of a 5” to 9”, 1lb.+/- knife being necessary for survival was simply a marketing scheme. I wonder how much thought the 18th Century Longhunters and 19th Century Mountain Men gave to the concept of a “survival” knife. Seems like like they did just fine with basically butcher style belt knives and folding knives. Everyday was an exercise in some form survival for them.
@@ROE1300 "However, isn’t a “Back Country” or “Wilderness” knife just simply a “Bushcraft” or “Camping” knife?"
It could be. However, I can see how you may want a more capable knife if you know you are going deep into the wilderness versus around the camp fire. Heck, I bring a cordless chainsaw with me when camping. Hard to take that on a 3 day deep woods trail hike.
Thanks for a informative overview! I recently watched your review of the Tops Brush Wolf and I believe you were using it in their video as well…how does it meet some/all of the qualities you mentioned? Be well!
Great, very wisely described, thank you.
A plus in a survival situation is that high carbon steel blades are able to shoot sparks from a piece of flint or chert to produce a fire if you have no other fire making equipment.
4:30 if I never end up using this blade for anything than sick pineapple slicing footage, I’m A-Ok w that 😂😂😂
I would think a hatchet for chopping and a small 3-4” knife for carving/fine cutting would be preferable to one large 7-8” blade and not that much more cumbersome to carry.
More to carry is better than less to carry? Why don't you just bring your car, extra sets of clothes, a diesel generator, etc?
@@bobjohnson1633 Or just go into the wilderness with nothing but a loin cloth and a paper clip. I mean less is better right?
I agree Tom. The conclusion you came to is one that many outdoor enthusiasts and survival experts have come to. These ideas have been laid to rest many many years ago
I have almost all the Beckers, a few KBars, a couple of Essees, and a couple of Helle's. I am considering the new Helle Nord. I am very impressed with it as a survival knife. I have a couple of other knives I am also considering. Overall, I am convinced that a good axe, A Swedish or American hand axe is the all around best survival tool. How the edge is shaped and also the rear of the axe needs to be considered for hammering. But an axe can be used for virtually every chore a knife can do minus maybe a couple of things. The one tool option can also be applied to a well created and designed tomahawk. For knives I count how many chores it can do and most of all durability and sharpenability - field maintenance . For fighting, my knife is dedicated for that purpose and that purpose alone and it has to accompany a whole array of techniques in fighting. I have found that a seven to nine inch razor sharp knife that slices through heavy rope, large diameter rope, is the best for me. This gives me advantages in distance and depth of impact along with knife twisting in internal organs for maximum damage. One can literally chop a person's head off and a whole host of radical damages. It can aid in fending off the opponents weapons. In mortal combat, there is no such thing as a fair fight and is not for the feint hearted. The only objective is to kill. A lot of nice guys might think just cutting off an ear will end the fight, it won't and being a nice guy will get you killed. So before anyone engages in a knife fight they better consider it better to avoid rather than engage. Only get into a knife fight as last resort and your life depends on it or the life of others. Make certain the opponent is dead, you don't want a lawsuit haunting you after a fight, even if he started it. Knife fights are rare even in armed combat but knowing how to handle yourself and your killing tool ahead of time may save your life. I have a lot of respect for Helle and Morakniv for crafting, trapping and virtually anything that requires precise carving or notching. Even Mors Kochanski had great respect for Morakniv. Two great knives I have much respect for are my BK-9 and my Becker Khukri. The Khukri in particular. It chops a little deeper than the 9 and is a great drawknife. It is one of the best Beckers in existence. The Becker you showed in this video is in a class all it's own and I love mine. I have a rare Becker Bowie, not the combat Bowie, that is really good but I have to wear gloves because of hot spots. I have used it maybe three times and retired it as a collectable and it is mint or near mint. The only reason I used it was to test it against the Khukri and the BK 9. I sharpen all my knives to near razor after each day of use whether in the field or at home, same thing with axes, hatchets and machetes. My axes and hatchets and tomahawks are all razor sharp, it is both impressive and practical for carving tasks or debarking, etc. Oh well, I have a big mouth as I am saying too much. I guess being a 70 yr. old deactivated Marine does that to me on subjects I love. You take care, God bless you and thank you for your hard work and all of your interesting information. Will be awaiting your next video !
Great philosophy my friend!! Semper Fi
in a survival situation, a brushcutter scythe. It does all the work mentioned in the video and even knocks down medium-sized trees if necessary and is an excellent defensive weapon at the end of a stick. the brushcutter scythe is far superior to a knife as a survival tool.
This video must be titled "Uncovering the Mysteries of why do I own so many Survival knives but ugh! I do, check my collection" lol
That would have been a good one too
For me, Tops Longhorn Bowie and Prather War Bowie and Terava’s Jaakaripuuko and Skrama 200 are amazing “survival” knives. I prefer heavier knives, this is where the Jaakaripuuko falls short. I don’t like exotic steels, even though I have quite a few knives in “super steels”. For me the best steels I’ve used so far are 1095, 80CRV2, SR-101 (52100 w/ Busse proprietary heat treat.) and 5160. Field sharpening is one of the top things I look for in a survival knife. My Top 3 survival knives so far are Tops Longhorn Bowie, Skrama 200 and Scrapyard Knives DB-421. I carry a Tops Tex Creek and a Buck 110 LT everyday, so I guess they’re actually my survival knives for now.
On a different note, I just watched a video on an experienced hiker, Stephen Olshansky. He died a few years ago hiking the CDT in Colorado I believe. Are you familiar with his story?
No, not familiar with that story
@@gideonstactical I watched a video that was posted three weeks ago by Kyle Hates Hiking Channel. It was titled something like "every hikers worst nightmare". Stephen Olshansky "Otter" was an experienced hiker and had hiked the three longest trails in the US several times. He made a mistake or had an error in judgement. Here a link if you're interested.
th-cam.com/video/cajFMKgOUZc/w-d-xo.html
I don't think a knife being stainless is gonna do much for you in a short term survival situation. I'd much rather have the high carbon knife that is easier to sharpen. When you are using a tool everyday you pretty much rub all the rust off of it while you are working.
Light rust from being in a humid environment will trash a blade edge in a few hours for me. Common stainless is pretty easy to sharpen
@@bobjohnson1633 Modern powder-metallurgy stainless steels probably provide the best compromise for every conceivable situation. Ease of sharpening vs. edge-holding... I'm guessing you'd have to get very finicky with the variables (weather, how long you have to "survive") to make final calls.
I live in a Austria, Europe, where rain is common and it snows occasionally. Stainless steels make it so I don't have to be mindful of dirt/water.
Toughness is probably comparable when looking at 3V (semi-stainless) or Magnacut.
@@bobjohnson1633 I live in New England near the ocean salt water and I don't have that problem. Going dull in a few hours? I have nothing against Stainless steel I just think it isn't as neccesary as the survival community acts like it is. Just strop your knife once or twice if it has a dot of rust on the edge, not the end of the world.
What about the bk9 is it a good idea
Great video! I agree with all your points.
I think “a survival knife is the knife you have in a survival situation” is silly. That’s an obvious statement. Anytime someone is asking about a survival knife they’re talking about something designed for survival.
For a Survival/combat knife you can't go wrong with a ESEE, Tops or BK series knife in 1095 steel with a 5-7 inch blade👍
💥
Aaron have you seen the Trackerx2 from off grid knives is it a good survival/camp ,hunting ,fishing, bush craft knife thanks
I took an old truck leaf spring and made a medium to heavy machete. I also take my Benchmade puukko and these two blades are my go to survival set up.
Maybe the best "Survival knife" is a sharp tomahawk or hatchet, as you can carve with it, as well as chop.