I was asked to give an opinion on a 6" 4 jaw chuck, so I strip it down, check condition and do a small repair (that might hold...) until the correct parts can be obtained
I have a chuck that uses the same kind of retainers on the jaw screws and I am trying to get it restored and couldn't find a video that would show how to remove those. You saved me with this video! Thank you!
Thank you! I was searching for someone who video'd actually removing the retainers. Your video was perfect, and mine is now all apart and in a solvent bath.
Nice video, but I wouldn’t advice using grease in any lathe or drill chucks…it just acts like a magnet for dust and metal chips…a light oil like 3 in one works just fine and it’s so much easier to clean with brake fluid spray and replace when carrying out future maintenance
I think it's going to come down to a personal choice. Both grease and oil are going to pick up dust and metal particles. I don't like oil particularly for moving chucks as it usually does not stay where you put it, even flicking out when the chuck is spinning. For something like an Albrecht drill chuck that is especially bad, and rebuild instructions typically call for grease so it does not migrate to places that should not be lubricated
I was considering TIG brazing up the cracks, but eventually welded, mainly because I was not sure how well the SiBrz would stick to hardened, muck filled steel. I also wondered whether the braze might bond the copper backing to the steel - something that I did not want. A new screw is on order, so the repair is only a temporary thing before that arrives. The key hole sides were a bit sloppy prior to the repair but a combination of gentle manipulation in the vice and a considered weld sequence squared and tightened them up enough.
@@occasionalmachinist It looks to me like the worn screw is from another set, as the companion jaw thread appears to be in good shape, which is not what you would expect. Whether to grease or oil chucks is a debatable subject - I prefer oil as it is more likely to release nasties than grease. Hot topic like way oil viscosity ;) Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu You're probably right. As I noted, the jaws are a different S/N to the body, so it would not surprise me if the screws were from different chucks. That was the only bad one - all the other screws were fine for both wear and cracks. I have no firm leanings on the oil vs. grease debate. Grease tends not to flick out as much though...
I don't know exactly what a K72-135 is - a web search shows a 4 jaw chuck - but typically start with winding the jaws out, remove the backing plate if not built in (mark the plate and body so it goes back in the same orientation) and then you should be able to knock those retaining pieces out in the same way.
@@occasionalmachinist Yea, I saw that, but I wasn’t clear on the whole process. Do you punch them all the way down until the screw comes free? Then how do you get them back in again? I’m going through the process for the first time and appreciate your help. Paul
@@paulmanhart4481 Yes, punch them all the way through. The back is open (or you have removed the backing plate), so to replace you just tap them back in.
I have a chuck that uses the same kind of retainers on the jaw screws and I am trying to get it restored and couldn't find a video that would show how to remove those. You saved me with this video! Thank you!
Thank you! I was searching for someone who video'd actually removing the retainers. Your video was perfect, and mine is now all apart and in a solvent bath.
Glad to be of help
Nice video, but I wouldn’t advice using grease in any lathe or drill chucks…it just acts like a magnet for dust and metal chips…a light oil like 3 in one works just fine and it’s so much easier to clean with brake fluid spray and replace when carrying out future maintenance
I think it's going to come down to a personal choice. Both grease and oil are going to pick up dust and metal particles. I don't like oil particularly for moving chucks as it usually does not stay where you put it, even flicking out when the chuck is spinning. For something like an Albrecht drill chuck that is especially bad, and rebuild instructions typically call for grease so it does not migrate to places that should not be lubricated
Did you consider bronze brazing the cracks Michael or did the key hole sides need building up ? Cheers Rob
I was considering TIG brazing up the cracks, but eventually welded, mainly because I was not sure how well the SiBrz would stick to hardened, muck filled steel. I also wondered whether the braze might bond the copper backing to the steel - something that I did not want. A new screw is on order, so the repair is only a temporary thing before that arrives.
The key hole sides were a bit sloppy prior to the repair but a combination of gentle manipulation in the vice and a considered weld sequence squared and tightened them up enough.
@@occasionalmachinist The key hole in the repaired screw has a noticeably better feel than the other 3.
@@occasionalmachinist It looks to me like the worn screw is from another set, as the companion jaw thread appears to be in good shape, which is not what you would expect. Whether to grease or oil chucks is a debatable subject - I prefer oil as it is more likely to release nasties than grease. Hot topic like way oil viscosity ;) Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu You're probably right. As I noted, the jaws are a different S/N to the body, so it would not surprise me if the screws were from different chucks. That was the only bad one - all the other screws were fine for both wear and cracks.
I have no firm leanings on the oil vs. grease debate. Grease tends not to flick out as much though...
Only now do I notice the timber your bench is made from.
Australian Oak, around 35mm thick I think. Slowly being reinforced with epoxy while I fill the drill holes left by a previous owner.
very good！i just wonder how to disassemble my k72-125
I don't know exactly what a K72-135 is - a web search shows a 4 jaw chuck - but typically start with winding the jaws out, remove the backing plate if not built in (mark the plate and body so it goes back in the same orientation) and then you should be able to knock those retaining pieces out in the same way.
@@occasionalmachinist I have learned it from your video.thank you!
How do you remove the operating screws?
The screws are held in with a clevis sort of plug. These are removed with a punch - 1:12 is where I show that
@@occasionalmachinist Yea, I saw that, but I wasn’t clear on the whole process. Do you punch them all the way down until the screw comes free? Then how do you get them back in again? I’m going through the process for the first time and appreciate your help.
Paul
@@paulmanhart4481 Yes, punch them all the way through. The back is open (or you have removed the backing plate), so to replace you just tap them back in.
@@occasionalmachinist ok. I’ll try that. Thanks.
P