Thanks for another great video. I used to work for Cushman Chuck in Hartford CT in the 80's. All of their chucks were assembled with moly disulfide grease.
Always enjoy seeing the inside of anything mechanical.. You had a cricket for a co-host this time :) .. heard him chirping constantly in the background
This is the very first video of yours that I have seen. I think you did a great job explaining what I must do to free up the motion of my 3 jaw chuck with 3 keyholes. Thank you very much.
Thanks Mr. Pete I think I will go to the shop and work on mine. Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos, I know the effort it takes to make these.
Wow. What a great detailed video. I think after 40 years + my southbend chuck should probably be serviced. Really, really appreciate it. I am primarily working in brass so it has not gotten too dirty over the years. But I need to clean it up. Thanks a bunch.
I bet you couldn't even hear that cricket in the background, but your mike picked it up loud and clear. Can't edit that sound out, but it's OK. Kinda adds a homey touch. Thanks for this video. I think my 3-Jaw is about ready for a clean out and this truly helps.
My vote would be for grease: it'll last longer and give just as much lubricity and rust protection, and is thicker to stay where it should stay. I think oil is too thin to hold onto the chips making it feel like grease attract chips more whereas force just slings chips away with oil.
Cleaned up my 3 jaw Craftsman chuck here recently and thought I had been very conservative about oil but when it started to turn I started to get coated. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Great video. I always wondered how a chuck worked. Most of it is fairly common gear grinding, but they probably had to create a custom grinding machine that could grind the presumably hardened scroll. By the way, tungsten disulfide grease has a lower coefficient of friction than molybdenum disulfide, but both will work well. Its probably overkill for the chuck, but in the world of gas turbines and rocket engine turbopumps, using a specialized process that bakes on the tungsten disulfie would last the longest, have the lowest friction, retain less chips in the moving parts, and would be less than .0001 inches thick (probably way more info than you wanted though).
When I bought my Craftsman (Atlas) lathe the three jaw chuck was like new but lacked the pinion. I contacted the company and was told there were no parts available. After much pondering I noticed how much the pinion hole resembled a drill chuck key. I found a key that matched closely enough to work. I removed the cross pin handle and used it that way for many years although it really was not safe with the body of the chuck key protruding from the chuck periphery!
I used to use oil but I switched around 15 years ago after a suggestion from a friend. Now I use a Dry Moly Lube spray that has Graphite in it when I service the 4 jaw self-centering scroll chuck I use at work and on the one that I have on my South Bend lathe at home, which works quite well. Since switching I've found that I can go longer in between services bc the dry lube doesn't attract and hold chips & grit like oil and grease does, so there's less chance of jamming and wearing of parts. Also it's a lot easier and quicker to apply an even coat to the parts and best of all I no longer have to worry about the chucks spitting oil at me for a week or so after servicing like I did with oil lol. So for me it's a win win in my book.
Yes the lathe gives you a streak of oil on your left sleeve, but the mill and the drill press balance it out by splashing oil all over your shirt. I find Goop on the stains before washings makes them all come out
That screwdriver. Whoa, memories. We moved into an old house when I was 7, about 1950 I think. I found THAT screwdriver under some straw in the barn. My Dad and I used it for years.
We greased our chucks in the industrial production shop. We used an extremely high quality grease with high tackifiers. This reduced how much grease was slung out by centrifugal force. High quality industrial chuck manufacturers usually specified the preferred grease. Once settled on a shop standard, chuck grease was universally applied throughout the shop regardless of chuck maker. Grease suppliers changed over the years, but usually we used a dark gray grease that probably was high lithium base. If you use flood coolant I suggest that you look for a grease with high moisture resistance. CNC spindle speeds normally well exceed the hobby lathe spindle speeds so centrifugal sling out is less of a problem in the home shop. Over greasing or oiling will likely give you a lubrication spatter pattern on your shirt, the lathe bed and wall behind the machine.
Hi Mr Pete good video. I used way oil on ones I've done . Happy 80th and you can tell its spring by the sound of your friend also keep up the good work . JM
I’m happy to see that you are getting rid of your hoard. It’s not fair to leave all that mess for family to deal with after you’re gone. It would be different if you had a family member that was passionate about machinist work… but if you don’t… get rid of it all. Leave nothing for others to have to deal with. It’s a massive headache for grieving family to have to deal with such a hoard. You’re doing the right thing. Cheers Pete.
Well Lyle, when we here the heater fire up in the background, know IL must be still chilly as we are too here in TX :-( ...I haven't shown my little 6 in Bison 3 jaw spindle type chuck, but a must have. No one bid on it back in October, and sure happy to own :-) Thx for taking out time to share, I have to one day clean up my 10 in 3 jaw. Bear. Have a great wk end, and hello to the Bride for me !
I just serviced my 8 inch 3 jaw chuck, thanks to Mr. Pete’s excellent video. I applied a light coating of Moly grease in the teeth of the three jaws. Works much smoother now.
You must have a lot of patience, not because of the cleaning of the chuck but the cricket in the background. I would have had to hunt it down. Lol. Maybe you did cause I didn't hear it at the end of the video.
Just took my 6 inch chuck from my South Bend 9A apart today..... a bit more complicated, as it has 3 slots for the chuck key..... lots of very old grease, but next to no wear.....the nice thing is, it has reversible jaws I think it was an after market addition, as the lathe is 1950's era... .I am debating using white lithium grease or oil now....hmmmm.... it is 1 1/2 by 8 ...but Plan on using on my 1 7/8 by 8 ....13 " SB....mounted to a 4 jaw... as the 9A has never been set up......Cheers Lyle, Paul down in Orlando.....
I recently rebuilt my 12” Cushman because it was stuck together from old grease. I was very well preserved by the previous owner but with the tight tolerances and glue like grease it was near impossible to disassemble. I put it back together with oil which by the way if you are going to do this Mr. Pete is very much correct on the striped left shoulder. But it does work very smooth and I believe for my use the oil will work well. In a constant shop use environment grease is probably superior. Thanks again for another great video.
Thank you for sharing this information with us o absolutely love it. Am a proud owner of an atlas and a Bridgeport don’t know anything about them so thank you for the education
Lol! Yep! I have one of those ZYankee cordless screwdrivers too... but on mine I modified a hex drive bit holder like we use in drill motors to fit into mine so I'm not limited to the couple old bits mine came with. Sort of modernized it! BTW, I have a nice 3-jaw chuck I need to disassemble and clean. Thanks for making this informative video! Alway a pleasure watching and learning from a master!
I used to use straight 30W oil but there was still quite a bit of it slinging out of the chuck. I now use 30W oil thickened up with STP oil treatment. I use that mixture throughout my lathe now.
I like to use oil. I’ve tried both, and every time I’ve slathered it with grease i feel like I’ve regretted it. Oil will sling when the chuck gets to spinning, but it’s better than the grease i think.
Excelent vídeo. A heavy oil, like 320, 680 or similar is good for internal gears, because its easy to clean with wd 40 without desarming pieces. Thank you for share your knowledge
I took apart a Burnerd 3-jaw chuck and could not get it back together again; the clearances were too tight. Had to get someone with finer sensibilities to get the scroll plate back into the body without damage. It’s all good now. I have a few Yankee screwdrivers that keep on going even when the power is out - true “green” machines.
@ 3@12 To facilitated this even further... I'd use a minimum of 3 wedges a ratchet strap around all the wedges;... the chuck with the heaviest side to your bench... Then tap all wedges in turn keep the strap taught...
Had to chuckle a little when you talked about cleaning it again after the scotchbrite considering what it looked like when you took it apart. Of course there may be some abrasive from the final sanding. Kinda made me want to go get one of my chucks and slide it out there so you could do it too while I watched. No doubt mine needs cleaning. I'll probably have to settle for regular diesel fuel. Did anyone else besides me think that the little bevel gear looked exactly like a drill chuck key? It even had the little tip to hold it.
I'd speculate that oil versus grease depends on how frequently you're willing to tear down the chuck for servicing, since you can [kind-of] add oil without full disassembly. What to the manufacturers of comparable 3-jaw chucks (without grease fittings) recommend? Surely there is some guidance, even if we don't know who manufactured this particular chuck.
I need to do this, it's been a while. As far as lubricants, choose one. In the aircraft business we never mix lubricants. There is the tendency for one to break down the other.
In a shop where the lathe is in daily use a monthly service and maintenance schedule is the way to go. But. In a shop where the lathe is only used occasionally I would recommend service after every 160 to 172 hours of use. I know that means keeping a log of machine hours which many of find inconvenient. But a little inconvenience is worth while to keep your tools and machinery in good working order.
Dry Graphite in spray cans seems to work well as a chuck lubricate due to it coating and lubricating the metal without attracting chips, etc. It comes out of the can as a liquid due to a carrier something like Brakeclean that quickly evaporates, leaving a coat of fine graphite that appears to go into the grain of metal. There are probably several brands available, but "Blaster" brand from Ace Hardware is the one I used.
I'd go for the motorcycle black used to put a motorcycle grease that comes in a broad tin which is heated up to immerse the chain in. It repels grit while lubricating with graphite in a matrix of grease. Maybe a motorcycle shop would you some.
Bison sells special grease for chucks, rather expensive IIRC, but my Autostrong chuck has a ball oiler on the front, strongly indicating oil is preferred. I think the answer is simply that you need to lubricate the chuck.😂
many years ago i had a specials lub for forklifts it was an aerosol that was mostly graphite so no dust would stick to it, seems like a good use for it heei t dried completely
Because of all the chips that obviously accumulated, I believe oil is the way to go. While grease will last in place much longer, all the chips that get in will stick to the grease and act as an abrasive. I suppose cleaning and lubricating every so often will extend the life.
Doggone it, i have one or three of those screwdrivers around here. Why dont i use them? This video is a must-see for owners of brand new off shore chucks as well. Thanks!
I found two sets of jaws yesterday in a box for a 3 jaw (one large and one small set). I wonder what the odds are that they are for one of mine. Probably better than a lottery ticket.
@@mrpete222 I'm pleased to see that the figures are rising 😀 Thanks for all the effort you put into sharing your knowledge and educating people here. I'm pretty sure your channel is the longest continuous channels that I have subscribed to. I had a bit of a scan back through your catalog of videos and I think it goes back about 10-11 years ago when I first found your channel. It may be longer. So many videos and so much knowledge and wisdom shared 😂 Thank you!
I use slidway oil on my chucks. Only a small amount is needed. It is tenacious and very slippery. I was just thinking, very dangerous for me, has anyone tried sticky motorcycle chain lube? It is designed as anti-fling so should keep your left shoulder clean.
Thanks for another great video. I used to work for Cushman Chuck in Hartford CT in the 80's. All of their chucks were assembled with moly disulfide grease.
👍👍
I watched this video before going over a Cushman chuck. It has a grease zirk recessed into the face. Thanks for the disulfide
Always enjoy seeing the inside of anything mechanical.. You had a cricket for a co-host this time :) .. heard him chirping constantly in the background
and I was gong nuts looking for the cricket IN MY HOUSE, before I ....
@@jeepnhusa lol me too .. I had to pause the video to make sure
He was chiming his version of a soundtrack 😂
This is the very first video of yours that I have seen. I think you did a great job explaining what I must do to free up the motion of my 3 jaw chuck with 3 keyholes. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Mr. Pete I think I will go to the shop and work on mine. Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos, I know the effort it takes to make these.
Wow. What a great detailed video. I think after 40 years + my southbend chuck should probably be serviced. Really, really appreciate it. I am primarily working in brass so it has not gotten too dirty over the years. But I need to clean it up. Thanks a bunch.
😄👍
I bet you couldn't even hear that cricket in the background, but your mike picked it up loud and clear. Can't edit that sound out, but it's OK. Kinda adds a homey touch. Thanks for this video. I think my 3-Jaw is about ready for a clean out and this truly helps.
My vote would be for grease: it'll last longer and give just as much lubricity and rust protection, and is thicker to stay where it should stay. I think oil is too thin to hold onto the chips making it feel like grease attract chips more whereas force just slings chips away with oil.
Agreed
Thanks a lot i have learnt a lot
Always a pleasure to see a new video, thank you for all your wisdom and experience.
Cleaned up my 3 jaw Craftsman chuck here recently and thought I had been very conservative about oil but when it started to turn I started to get coated. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Great video. I always wondered how a chuck worked. Most of it is fairly common gear grinding, but they probably had to create a custom grinding machine that could grind the presumably hardened scroll. By the way, tungsten disulfide grease has a lower coefficient of friction than molybdenum disulfide, but both will work well. Its probably overkill for the chuck, but in the world of gas turbines and rocket engine turbopumps, using a specialized process that bakes on the tungsten disulfie would last the longest, have the lowest friction, retain less chips in the moving parts, and would be less than .0001 inches thick (probably way more info than you wanted though).
When I bought my Craftsman (Atlas) lathe the three jaw chuck was like new but lacked the pinion. I contacted the company and was told there were no parts available. After much pondering I noticed how much the pinion hole resembled a drill chuck key. I found a key that matched closely enough to work. I removed the cross pin handle and used it that way for many years although it really was not safe with the body of the chuck key protruding from the chuck periphery!
👍
I used to use oil but I switched around 15 years ago after a suggestion from a friend.
Now I use a Dry Moly Lube spray that has Graphite in it when I service the 4 jaw self-centering scroll chuck I use at work and on the one that I have on my South Bend lathe at home, which works quite well.
Since switching I've found that I can go longer in between services bc the dry lube doesn't attract and hold chips & grit like oil and grease does, so there's less chance of jamming and wearing of parts. Also it's a lot easier and quicker to apply an even coat to the parts and best of all I no longer have to worry about the chucks spitting oil at me for a week or so after servicing like I did with oil lol. So for me it's a win win in my book.
Thank you Sir for the time and effort to serve the community! I needed this video to help me refurb a 1927 South Bend chuck!
😁😁
Yes the lathe gives you a streak of oil on your left sleeve, but the mill and the drill press balance it out by splashing oil all over your shirt. I find Goop on the stains before washings makes them all come out
lol
Thanks for sharing 👍 I always put Neverseze on my fasteners. I've had trouble with just oil where I live.
Very good and detailed video thanks Mrpete 👍👍👍♥️
That screwdriver. Whoa, memories. We moved into an old house when I was 7, about 1950 I think. I found THAT screwdriver under some straw in the barn. My Dad and I used it for years.
We greased our chucks in the industrial production shop. We used an extremely high quality grease with high tackifiers. This reduced how much grease was slung out by centrifugal force. High quality industrial chuck manufacturers usually specified the preferred grease. Once settled on a shop standard, chuck grease was universally applied throughout the shop regardless of chuck maker. Grease suppliers changed over the years, but usually we used a dark gray grease that probably was high lithium base. If you use flood coolant I suggest that you look for a grease with high moisture resistance. CNC spindle speeds normally well exceed the hobby lathe spindle speeds so centrifugal sling out is less of a problem in the home shop. Over greasing or oiling will likely give you a lubrication spatter pattern on your shirt, the lathe bed and wall behind the machine.
Thanks
Awesome timing, about to service my Cushman 3 jaw chuck which came with my 1920 South Bend 15"x6' :)
👍
Hi Mr Pete good video. I used way oil on ones I've done . Happy 80th and you can tell its spring by the sound of your friend also keep up the good work . JM
I’m happy to see that you are getting rid of your hoard. It’s not fair to leave all that mess for family to deal with after you’re gone. It would be different if you had a family member that was passionate about machinist work… but if you don’t… get rid of it all. Leave nothing for others to have to deal with. It’s a massive headache for grieving family to have to deal with such a hoard. You’re doing the right thing. Cheers Pete.
Yes
Well Lyle, when we here the heater fire up in the background, know IL must be still chilly as we are too here in TX :-( ...I haven't shown my little 6 in Bison 3 jaw spindle type chuck, but a must have. No one bid on it back in October, and sure happy to own :-) Thx for taking out time to share, I have to one day clean up my 10 in 3 jaw. Bear. Have a great wk end, and hello to the Bride for me !
😄😄🙏
I just serviced my 8 inch 3 jaw chuck, thanks to Mr. Pete’s excellent video. I applied a light coating of Moly grease in the teeth of the three jaws. Works much smoother now.
The dishwasher is a good idea. Don't forget using the Mrs. tooth brush for those hard to reach places.
Excellent content and video ....... AS ALWAYS. Thanks mrpete
Oil and clean often .... Thanks for sharing ... Stay Safe and Well....
Good video on cleaning the chuck, Tubalcain. You can see the swarf that gets into the gear and scroll area when you pulled it apart.
You must have a lot of patience, not because of the cleaning of the chuck but the cricket in the background. I would have had to hunt it down. Lol. Maybe you did cause I didn't hear it at the end of the video.
Lubriplate No 105 engine assembly, fluid film. Thank you MWM Blacksmith
I finally heard the cricket!!!! Watched all you're videos and I've finally heard it. Never before. Jimaddy is just fine.😁😁
Just took my 6 inch chuck from my South Bend 9A apart today.....
a bit more complicated, as it has 3 slots for the chuck key.....
lots of very old grease, but next to no wear.....the nice thing is, it has reversible jaws
I think it was an after market addition, as the lathe is 1950's era...
.I am debating using white lithium grease or oil now....hmmmm....
it is 1 1/2 by 8 ...but Plan on using on my 1 7/8 by 8 ....13 " SB....mounted to a 4 jaw...
as the 9A has never been set up......Cheers Lyle,
Paul down in Orlando.....
👍👍👍
I recently rebuilt my 12” Cushman because it was stuck together from old grease. I was very well preserved by the previous owner but with the tight tolerances and glue like grease it was near impossible to disassemble. I put it back together with oil which by the way if you are going to do this Mr. Pete is very much correct on the striped left shoulder. But it does work very smooth and I believe for my use the oil will work well. In a constant shop use environment grease is probably superior. Thanks again for another great video.
Thank you for sharing this information with us o absolutely love it. Am a proud owner of an atlas and a Bridgeport don’t know anything about them so thank you for the education
Thank you Mr.Pete!!
Lol! Yep! I have one of those ZYankee cordless screwdrivers too... but on mine I modified a hex drive bit holder like we use in drill motors to fit into mine so I'm not limited to the couple old bits mine came with. Sort of modernized it! BTW, I have a nice 3-jaw chuck I need to disassemble and clean. Thanks for making this informative video! Alway a pleasure watching and learning from a master!
👍👍
clean and mantained tools never a waste of time ... worth every min
I cleaned mine and it works much smother now.
I used to use straight 30W oil but there was still quite a bit of it slinging out of the chuck. I now use 30W oil thickened up with STP oil treatment. I use that mixture throughout my lathe now.
👍
That is the same exact 3 jaw chuck that is on my 1934 south bend model c 9 x 48 lathe
I use oil and find much less crud in the chucks at cleaning time. You can add a few drops now and then as well which doesn't work so well with grease.
I like to use oil. I’ve tried both, and every time I’ve slathered it with grease i feel like I’ve regretted it. Oil will sling when the chuck gets to spinning, but it’s better than the grease i think.
Excelent vídeo. A heavy oil, like 320, 680 or similar is good for internal gears, because its easy to clean with wd 40 without desarming pieces. Thank you for share your knowledge
👍👍
I took apart a Burnerd 3-jaw chuck and could not get it back together again; the clearances were too tight. Had to get someone with finer sensibilities to get the scroll plate back into the body without damage. It’s all good now. I have a few Yankee screwdrivers that keep on going even when the power is out - true “green” machines.
Your wife's electric toothbrush works really good on the scroll gear teeth, too! She has one, doesn't she?
lol
@ 3@12 To facilitated this even further... I'd use a minimum of 3 wedges a ratchet strap around all the wedges;... the chuck with the heaviest side to your bench... Then tap all wedges in turn keep the strap taught...
👍
Had to chuckle a little when you talked about cleaning it again after the scotchbrite considering what it looked like when you took it apart. Of course there may be some abrasive from the final sanding. Kinda made me want to go get one of my chucks and slide it out there so you could do it too while I watched. No doubt mine needs cleaning. I'll probably have to settle for regular diesel fuel. Did anyone else besides me think that the little bevel gear looked exactly like a drill chuck key? It even had the little tip to hold it.
I'd speculate that oil versus grease depends on how frequently you're willing to tear down the chuck for servicing, since you can [kind-of] add oil without full disassembly. What to the manufacturers of comparable 3-jaw chucks (without grease fittings) recommend? Surely there is some guidance, even if we don't know who manufactured this particular chuck.
GREAT VIDEO MR PETE, COULD YOU USE A DRY LUBE ON THIS?
that little bevel gear does lots of work....I won't crank down too hard on 3 jaw chucks.
I need to do this, it's been a while. As far as lubricants, choose one. In the aircraft business we never mix lubricants. There is the tendency for one to break down the other.
Thanks
Well off to cleaning chucks...... thanks I was looking for some thing to do.....
Lyle, I've always used a moly based grease. Just a thin coat does the job.
That should be done on a monthly maintenance schedule along with cleaning and adjusting the lathe and the other shop tools one has.
In a shop where the lathe is in daily use a monthly service and maintenance schedule is the way to go. But. In a shop where the lathe is only used occasionally I would recommend service after every 160 to 172 hours of use. I know that means keeping a log of machine hours which many of find inconvenient. But a little inconvenience is worth while to keep your tools and machinery in good working order.
Dry Graphite in spray cans seems to work well as a chuck lubricate due to it coating and lubricating the metal without attracting chips, etc. It comes out of the can as a liquid due to a carrier something like Brakeclean that quickly evaporates, leaving a coat of fine graphite that appears to go into the grain of metal. There are probably several brands available, but "Blaster" brand from Ace Hardware is the one I used.
I'd go for the motorcycle black used to put a motorcycle grease that comes in a broad tin which is heated up to immerse the chain in. It repels grit while lubricating with graphite in a matrix of grease. Maybe a motorcycle shop would you some.
@ 1-:03 I would use a Dry Spay Lubricant...
I use powdered graphite to lube my chucks.
Do you think graphite would work? I liked the cricket sound effect !
lol... I had to take my headphones off (briefly) to make sure the crickets weren't in _my_ place.
My vote would be for grease,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
Thank you sir.
I always used grease. 👍👍👍
Very good video.Thank you.
Bison sells special grease for chucks, rather expensive IIRC, but my Autostrong chuck has a ball oiler on the front, strongly indicating oil is preferred.
I think the answer is simply that you need to lubricate the chuck.😂
Yup! Need to get chucks for my 10" Atlas
many years ago i had a specials lub for forklifts it was an aerosol that was mostly graphite so no dust would stick to it, seems like a good use for it heei t dried completely
👍
When you asked for a hand to hold the chuck I was yes I would lol
Who even knew this was a thing? 😀👍Awesome Video!
Good job 😊. Thank you
Thank you 🙏
Thanks again
I use Pratt Burnerd Chuck Lubricant. It is a grease and seems to stay in the chuck pretty well.
Get that cricket Mr Pete..!!
enjoyed it and thank you for the info.
Is that Brass wedge something you made or purchased? Got my day pre-planned after seeing this, thanks
Those are commercially made wedges. I got them at a swap meet
Because of all the chips that obviously accumulated, I believe oil is the way to go. While grease will last in place much longer, all the chips that get in will stick to the grease and act as an abrasive. I suppose cleaning and lubricating every so often will extend the life.
LOL My old timey screwdriver has a twin!
12:39 Are these screwdrivers hand-made? That's a beauty sir.
Before lithium we just listened to the voices!
Good Morning!
Doggone it, i have one or three of those screwdrivers around here. Why dont i use them?
This video is a must-see for owners of brand new off shore chucks as well.
Thanks!
Hi Lyle
Are you serious when you say your going to go upstairs and put these chuck parts in the dishwasher .😂
Man you have got more guts than me
We don’t even have a dishwasher
Grease or Oil, what does the South Bend Lathe book say? I like the grease. Centrifugal force with displace the oil in a skinny minute.
I found two sets of jaws yesterday in a box for a 3 jaw (one large and one small set). I wonder what the odds are that they are for one of mine. Probably better than a lottery ticket.
True
Centrifugal forces determine molycoat for chuck innards. Years of top, non sticky service!
I always thought High speed use oil, high pressure use grease, although there might be exceptions to that
👍
JIM 🥰
Mr p is that the same cricket that’s been in the basement for 10yrs now?
very good
I noticed some markings on the chuck after you cleaned it. what's it say?
I’m an oiler for the last 50 years grease attracts the chips
Thanks
POST YOUR 3 JAW JOKES HERE:
Why did they invent 3 jaw chucks? So farmers could machine too!
lol
Oil or grease - I don't think it really matters all that much. As long as mating/moving surfaces have lubrication either will work.
This channel never gets enough likes. There is 290K of you and there is only 265 likes :(
😂😂
@@mrpete222 I'm pleased to see that the figures are rising 😀 Thanks for all the effort you put into sharing your knowledge and educating people here. I'm pretty sure your channel is the longest continuous channels that I have subscribed to. I had a bit of a scan back through your catalog of videos and I think it goes back about 10-11 years ago when I first found your channel. It may be longer. So many videos and so much knowledge and wisdom shared 😂 Thank you!
I use slidway oil on my chucks. Only a small amount is needed. It is tenacious and very slippery.
I was just thinking, very dangerous for me, has anyone tried sticky motorcycle chain lube? It is designed as anti-fling so should keep your left shoulder clean.
Is Jiminy Cricket in the shop??
The cricket are back already? I vote grease myself.
The question is how did those tiny chips penetrate and get inside the internal gears?
wormhole ....😇
That is a yankee screwdriver 😊
💯💯💯💯💯👌👍🤝
Anyone work for or know someone who makes chucks? Do they use oil or grease when they are assembled I wonder.
Wouldn’t oil and grease just attract and hold chips? Dry lube, INMO would be better...