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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 เม.ย. 2021
- More behind the scene content of this build:
/ pssound
More about IB subwoofer installation:
TRUNK IB: • IB trunk wall in Merce...
TRUE IB: • Infinite baffle / free...
Playlist of this build: • Porsche Taycan High-En...
Social:
/ pssounduk
/ pssound_uk
Contact:
www.pssound.co.uk/
System layout:
source: Helix NAV-TV ZEN-V
dsp: ZAPCO HDSP-V Z16
amps: ZAPCO Z-150-6AP (front) + Z-400.2AP (subs) + ST-2X SQ (rearfill)
tweeter: Accuton-Automotive C030AM
midrange: Accuton-Automotive C100AM
midbass: HAT L8SE (dustcap version)
subs: 2x Acoustic Elegance IB15AU - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Awesome video, gave me ideas for a future vid 👏
I guess on a big bass system? 😃
@@pssound9749 no, I don't have one of those, but the rebassed music some people listen to can cause higher current consumption, but you mentioned this anyway. I really enjoyed the video, thanks again for sharing
@@wal damn Big D, i didnt know you check Peter out. I adore Peter, and his work, as well as yours my friend. (I just watched your JP vid before this one) Big D, send Peter some SMD tools 😉 . Rad work, both/all of you.
"FOR THE LOVE OF AUDIO"
This is evidence that the car audio community is one big happy community....Who is watching Soundman and his bassvan wars?.
a trick: you can watch series at Flixzone. Been using it for watching a lot of movies recently.
Pete we need to get you and Jeff Smith and the guys ar 5 star car audio to do a video with a detailed IB setup and tune , pros and cons
I think i have plenty of detailed videos of IB setups, but surely it’d be cool to have a video together with the guys from that side of the pond! 🤘
@@pssound9749
I think Petar you target the ultimate SQ setup, where you go into absolute details, that's awsome.
But majority of people fall somewhere in the middle.
Middle meaning between what Dean does in a factory setup and what you do as complete custom work.
You both guys should definitely come in a common show.
Thank You peter, this makes me feel alot better about running my Zapco AP's being class A/B... it obviously something you DO NOT need to worry about if your just an SQ or little SQL guy
Awesome video, I try to tell people their front stage isn't getting what they think it is but they insist lol.
Great video! This one definitely speaks to me. This Taycan build was awesome! It gives me hope for the EV market and the future of car audio. Thanks for the content! Always elite level from you👊
Good video,guys look foward to the next
Thanks for video , really appreciate the knowledge you share
Nice Job 👌🏽👍🏽 beautiful informative Video it's another winner 🏆
Thanks. Spent so much time on forums and watching videos talking about total RMS wattage when talking about alternator and fuse requirements without providing any real world amp draw examples when listening to music. This is exactly what I needed to give me some comfort that I dont need to upgrade my alternator right away and will wait to test it when whole system installed. It also confirms that 0 gauge wiring is more than sufficient for me from battery to amp and helps me better understand the fusing requirements. I just happen to have that same 150.6AP amp going in my system and so even more relevant to me. Cheers and subscribed.
Very good info! Thank you!
Nice video my friend
Finally someone agrees with me I have 1 BD 15 from definitive audio designs (1500 watt sub) on the crossfire c7 4k @ 1 ohm. Tuned correctly! I play it for 3 hours straight no issues no overheating just pure phenomenal bass. This sub is in a 2:1 4th order tuning is 53hz
Greats points.
“Ariana Grande has like stupid lows” 😂😂😂 Ariana’s street cred just jumped up a few notches
Peter will you ever offer a training course to beginners? Every video you post makes me drool :D
Ashton if you go to his patreon you can actually buy privat time one on one.
Interesting video. This comes back to that question how loud is loud enough. I'm more in sq, but there is little basshead in me. Fun begings when you can feel the bass. Only problem is that my ears can't stand IT long enough. 🙂
My average listening lvl when I was younger was around 140 db driving around. Btw my my subs never outplayed my mid and highs
Then you had very loud mids+highs! 😃 Are you okay? Can you still hear me? 😜😀
My older brother used to rock 2 10 inch Kenwood subs in a sealed box at 1000 watts RMS in his Nissan Altima, I can feel the bass and it's actually very pleasant to my ears. I can handle louder, I've been in a single cab pickup truck system with 2 Kicker L7 15 inch subs in a blow thru-enclosure, it distorts my ears like microphones which are louder than my personal preference but, went through multiple songs without any ear pain and I feel like a tuning fork. A single neo 3.5 12 inch sub in a sealed enclosure will be a sweet spot in between that pickup truck and my brother's previous subwoofers.
this is what only an honest shop/installer will dare say.
Con audio shop will just laugh and say "how is 65w/channel enough? let me show you how you can improve with this 150w amp." when i found out the problem is all speakers eq was not even tuned when they said they have spent 1 whole day to "tune". they refused to adjust anything when i mentioned the tweeter was too loud and piercing harsh. they did set the time alignment properly though.
After learning how to adjust the DSP eq, not perfect, but it definitely good enough even with my 65w/channel DSP Amplifier set up. 3/4 volume and i already feel like i will go deaf prematurely and its not what i want.
For a decent build, not an SPL monster, a massive big 3 upgrade is for sure not needed.
I did a small test run on my system. With two mid/high channels, only one midbass channel and a single 12" hooked up to my 5ch amp and saw peaks no higher than 40A.
Thanks very good video, for this can what size of fuse did you put , i mean the big one
i remember my first car and first system. the supply system was so bad i would have a full volt to volt and a half drop just from front to back, without playing anything! eventually i redid all the cables, including upgrading the main amplifier feed to 0awg. i think the worst i got afterwards, with stock alt, was half a volt drop on really big hits on rebassed music. no lights dimming etc, even with the car off.
i never skimp out on the wiring these days.
I have 2 amps 50X4 for mids and highs and 600 watts for the sub on stock system.
I am going to run a Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch sealed with a 2000 watt amp. I'm mostly going to listen to it at mid-volume so I rest assured that I do not need an aftermarket alt.
Peter let's face it 80% of the world's population is def 😅
Simple thing like a drum kit sound check at 118db is enough to make you loose sleep
How’s it going peter!.. I’m from California and IB is rare around here. I got to admit watching you for a while now got me going for IB I got subs and speakers in mind to buy but my question is I would like AB amps I got some old school PPI PC series amplifiers 2 4ch and one 2ch big amps would you know if those are as good as today’s AB amps like those Zapcos?
There are many good old amps! If they don’t have floor noise and on/off switch noise, then you should be fine.
Check out PART 6. in the Sound Quality in Car playlist on the channel. 👍
Cool test.
I have a RFosgate amp t400x4ad. Will that work in a corolla hybrid car? 4ohm speaker front100w rms and rear150w rms.
That's how it's done, quite down the 'noise' and show what car audio is really about
I was just pondering something the other day and I am wondering if you would already know this answer or have a way to test it and make a video of it (let's assume I'm building a little pull behind trailer for my bicycle which will carry this equipment). Which of these setups would draw more power from a DC source a straight DC/car stereo @ 4 ohms or, DC-AC converted system with a home style stereo at 8ohms? I feel I may already know the answer but I don't have a way of testing with out purchasing a whole lot of things that I can't really afford.
Quesrion, im looking to hookup two around 1000w amps to a ac converter, idk theirvamp draw.. do you think 100a converter would be able to handle hr or so playing loud?
The average peak consumption is watt x0.13 = Amper, so in your case 2000W ~ 260A peak
I think for sq setup 60/40 or 70/30 sub/ front is a good ratio .
thats why i drive around with earplugs in lol. of course i never did that lol. maybe once.
Were you using a DC or AC clamp setting?
Yes, DC.
Hi just wondering what kind of clamp meter you used cause its dc not the usual clamp meter they usually only work on ac.
Yes, it’s a specific one that does DC too. I’ll have to check what it is.
UNI-T ut204a
Isn't it also often a question of resistance and the car electrical not keeping up?? You'll get higher amp draw if the ground isn't good enough or the wire diameter is too small...But thanks for clarifying, i'll just swap the battery and make sure ground everything really good..And try running one batt and stock electrical...
If you have resistance issues, then that’s need sorting first, but this videos wasn’t meant to cover that.
I also wonder if your voltage gets to say 12.5 but it jumps back up to 14.5 or 14.6 right after quick does that mean my electrical is good?
If you have 2V drop, then you have a weak power supply! It shouldn’t move more than 0.3-0.5v even at the loudest peaks.
@@pssound9749 ok thanks for responding man I always wondered that because in my old set up it would drop to about 13.4 and go back up to 14.8 I learned my lesson from that though. I was using a wet cell battery and used a isolator. Had a agm optima battery in the front. I didn't know no better because before when my dad was living he had agm all the way around. Would that have been the source of my problem? I've heard that wet cells don't like to give up the juice
@@mallorycainjr.1921 personally i would put the wet cell up front for starting. Then use a isolator and put the agm in the back. Thats the way i roll many years. My oldest agm batteries are now 14 years old and still do 85% on the batterie tester.
hello peter, do you know if there is anything special i need to do to add a second battery to an audi a5? going to be about 2500 watt system. all audio control amps.
Make sure batteries are same type, ideally minimum AGM, not lead acid. Lithium is king though.
@@pssound9749 what about the charging system? Supposedly every time a battery is replaced in this car i need to reprogram the system for the new battery even if they are like for like. If i add a second agm will it mess with the charging system?
Could you tell what kind of batteries u had on that build?
Yes, 800V main battery pack with a 13.4V DC-DC converter.
Are you checking the amps draw on the power cable ?
Yes, on the main power cable.
Power requirements are based on how efficient your amps are. A 2k system runs fine on stock car system, I know cause I am running that. But I can't run it just on battery obviously.
70x4 class AB for speakers and 2k class D for sub would work. I mostly listen to music at medium volume.
You need a secondary batery anything over 500 watts
Big D, trunk full of JP8
What type of battery do you guys run over there?
I used to use Optima Yellowtop batteries for more than 2 decades when those were still best you could get. But now these arent that good anymore, braking down much sooner than before. AGM are recommended now, but I am curious which brands are best these days for car audio. I have to replace my battery this week...
Did you find anything?
@@explorinlearnindoing5462 in the US people use lithium. LTO, Insight, cmax, yinlong, planano, scib.
What was the sensitivity on the subs?
Never mind I see the name of the subwoofers under your description I can look them up my bad lol gotta do the research
Their sensitivity on paper is just a thing. The application they are installed in matters more. IB is sensitive at the low-end.
@@pssound9749 hmm so does sensitivity really matter in any type of application for example a 6th order box? I might've read your answer wrong
Sometimes you just need to rock out with your (Front End) out!!!
😂😂😂😂
My 4 amps and DSP idles 8amps
the meter is probably close enough to show your point. i dont believe that type of meter measures the peaks correctly. it is probably averaging them. you would need an analog meter for more accuracy. like a simpson 260, pretty cheap.
It is accurate enough to prove a point. 👍
simpson 260 looks like it only measures max 10A.
bigbadad it has 40A & 600A scale, clearly shown in the video too.
@@pssound9749 I was referring to the Simpson 260
Never thought I would hear, oh Ariana grande that has stupid lows.
I don't see capacitors anymore these days. Didn't see them in your setups also. Why is that?!?
Because they are absolutely pointless! Rather sort out the power supply, proper battery instead and no cap can ever touch that. Even caps have to be charged from somewhere, so if the supply before that is poor, then the cap is just a bandaid 🩹.
EV cars are the best, constant solid power.
@@pssound9749 so, if i have a normal system about 250-400w RMS, 16 mm2 power cable, 4 doors speakers and i want to install a Subwoofer in the trunk on the side (didn't thought about the power yet but minimum 200W rms and max 400/500W rms) wouldn't help at all to ease the car's battery job a little, less stress for the alternator too, if i add a capacitor?
Buy a better AGM and the biggest you can fit. 4-500W system shouldn’t be an issue for any car, that’s like 35-45A load.
@@pssound9749 thanks for clarifying. I was thinking this way but with your car audio experience you rest my mind now.
Keep up the good work 💪
@@pssound9749Hi Peter, for the last 20 years I had multiple Optima Yellowtops which were best then. Now it seems they arent that good anymore. Are all AGM batteries good or which brands are best for car audio? Thanks in advance!
You don’t need power. Meanwhile I’m struggling to hear my system over road noise! What the hell am I doing wrong?
You either have a very noisy car or a system that can’t play loud enough? 🤷🏻♂️😃
@@pssound9749 I’ve got esotec 2 way, 12” milli-pro 60l ish sealed running on a voce 5.1k. It’s a van but cab is sound deadened to hell and isolated with 60mm of solid bulkhead sealed and weighted. I get quality sound but not the volume. It’s like my gains are to low but the scope tells me different.
Maybe it’s your ears