The Best Way To Finish Your Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- In today's video I explain the layers of basement technology (floors and walls) and how to finish your basement so that you never have to worry about moisture issues again. Be sure to leave your questions and comments below. For important links CLICK SHOW MORE ⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇⬇
0:00 - Intro
1:35 - Minimum Code for Insulation
4:44 - Subfloor Systems
6:29 - Why Rigid Foam
9:23 - Building Inspections
10:04 - Insulating Older Homes
11:13 - Underlayment & Flooring
11:30 - Finishing Modern Homes
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Cheers!
I used spray foamed between the studs and concrete wall, inserted rock wool between the 2X4’s coming in contact with the cinder block wall. House is 60 years old. 5/8 mold resistant Sheet rock on top of all that. Has been 10 years, took it apart yesterday for electrical work. All dry and no mold.
Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?
I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!
Dude, thank you so much. You present the info in a way that is easy to follow and understand, and I feel like I've really learned some things!
When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.
Thanks Jeff love all you help, and appreciate your time.
I love your channel SO MUCH!!! Thank you so much for everything that you have taught me and everyone else
Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.
Cheers Joe, Happy to be of help! Enjoy the project!
SENDITTTT
This might be the best, most informative and interesting home reno video I've ever watched. Thank you.
Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.
This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂
I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!
Cheers to Virginia!
Any thoughts on doing an epoxy floor in an older home's basement?
It's great to see that a lot of my plan for my basement office is consistent with your advice. But it looks like I can butt the framing right up against the foam board and not leave a half inch gap which I had initially planned.
best to have the gap behind the rigid foam. no value if it is between the framing and foam.
I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.
Excellent content, great delivery of information. Keep up the stellar work!!! 👍👍👍👍
I'm a newby home owner in an older home and your content is very good! Just wanted to say thank you. Cheers!
I appreciate that! Cheers!
Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.
Wow This video has got to be super helpful for any DIY'er that wants to finish their basement and just get it done right the first time
Cheers!
Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.
These kind of videos are definetely the best!!!
where you teach us what the code says about insulations, show the differents layers, theirs variations and better use.
Would love to see how the insulation layers and vapor barriers on foundations and concrete walls. No need to have a complete house, just a table with samples on scale would be really great
many thanks for videos like this
will look into that. Cheers!
Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always!
What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?
You are so knowledgeable and generous! Thank you!
This was amazingly helpful. Thank you!
Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.
Thank you so much for the video. Really helpful especially when you are rebuilding your basement. Can you use rigid foam if there are exposed tie rods?
Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!
Thank you I've always wonder how I would start my basement and this video was basically that and more. When I'm ready I will definitely join and be contacting you
Cheers, happy to help!
Planing for this as material is not cheap these days…. Lool about 1500 sqf basement!!! You guys are awesome!
I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha).
My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?
best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!
This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.
Anymore thoughts on offsetting the stud wall from concrete; seemed like a great idea, especially when building your stud wall on dri-core, creating a continuous air envelope (concrete floor and wall) to allow dispersion (my basement is somewhat dry...no real intrusions, but you can't leave things on the basement floor or they'll start smelling moldy....hence loved the idea of the continuous air space)....i keep reading though this is a terrible idea due to convection looping.
Q1 - Is it better to do a flash & batt style insulation where you offset your stud wall an inch or so from the wall, spray foam 1 inch to act as a vapour/moisture barrier then insulate with batt in the walls?
Q2 - I was thinking to still use dri-core on the floors, but leave a 1/4 inch out from walls and somewhat of an airspace to allow the concrete floor to breath, but perhaps a tight but to seal is also the way to go.
Thanks Jeff. Great video. I am planning to build a half-wall to cover the poured cement bottom half of the wall in the basement (3 feet), but keep the original brick from ground level up. Will insulation like you described here provide any r-value if only covering the bottom half of the wall?
Ty very clear and to the point video. I will be doing exactly this in my basement. I really appreciate you for making this video and will now be a sub of your channel. Looking forward to watching more great videos like this.
This was one of the best videos I have ever watched on “how to”.
How is it you always deliver exactly the content I need EXACTLY when I need it? 😻😻
I have no idea. Cheers!
I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.
Awesome video, thanks Jeff! One question, would adding a vapor barrier not run the risk of creating a double vapour barrier with the foam board?
I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be
that is great to hear, thanks for the hint.
Thanks for sharing. Under what program do you get the rebates? Does it work for finishing the basement of a newer home as well?
@@chadiverson9291 I believe he is talking about Canada Greener Homes Grant
1. After you put the poly vapour barrier on top of the 2x4 wall, what do you do with the bottom edge? What does that get sealed to?
2. Is this type of subfloor sufficient to install ceramic/porcelain tile on top? Or is there another product you'd put on top first?
Thanks!!!
Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!
I'm planning on renovating the basement in my 1950 built house. no sump pump, no exterior water protection. Also haven't had water in the basement in the 10 years I've been there.
Planning on Dricore subfloor and foam board on the exterior walls.
To prevent damage from potential water events, I'm using as little organic materials as possible.
I'll be steel studs, vinyl flooring, and rockwool in the stud bays.
I think I'll be a winning combination.
Only thing I have to figure it is synthetic alternatives to osb subfloor and drywall.
Do you have a floor drain? If there's a flooding event, the water should travel under the osb and drywall to the floor drain.
You could also dig a sump pit and pump. Its involved obviously, and hauling dirt and concrete sucks, but it's not particularly difficult. There's a good This Old House episode on digging your own sump pump pit.
That was great information Jeff. All makes sense. Thanks!!
Cheers john!
Learned a lot. Thanks for posting
Do you put the foam board over the French drain plastic that's around the perimeter of the basement?
Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?
did this a year and a half ago step for step, its great. suggested on NRCAN -keeping the heat in site as well. note for exterior walls. may want to treat with borax before. had ants get in somehow and they didn't eat but tunneled in a section. made it Swiss cheese. had to make tiny hole and spray/fill with insecticide. uncommon, seems to work though
dealing with ants means you have wet exterior wood. best to find out why your exterior isn't staying dry. Chjeers!
If we have existing framing that we aren't going to redo, and they are too close to the concrete foundation to get anything behind it, would the next best solution be a 1-2" layer of closed cell foam + fiberglass batt in the stud bays? If so, would you still install a poly vapor barrier on top of that?
Love the video! Quick question, when installing the subfloor you recommended, can you use a ramset to secure the subfloor to the concrete in the basement or is it better to just go with the drill?
How would you secure the Dricore to the concrete and how would you suggest securing framework to the subfloors?
Best video on this subject. Thank you
Love the videos. Question about the floor. Every basement Ive been in has one or more drains in the center of the floor and the floor slopes toward them from the walls. When trying to lay that floor underlayment, Id think it would be a nightmare as the floor isn't level from one side to the other??
Love your video's Jeff! Currently finishing my basement in our home we bought new 5 years ago. Using your tips & tricks... about to start boarding after doing all my framing/electrical. I am using pocket doors as space savers which hopefully will turn out great. Do you have any video's on pocket doors installation? My doors have to either be made custom or cut down as the bulkheads/framing left me with a smaller RO for my pocket door frame... nothing insurmountable but not ideal. Dan (Edmonton, AB).
yes. I did a pocket door video a few years ago. here it is. th-cam.com/video/QPYGXnfPIBM/w-d-xo.html
Great episode! Detailed explanation
Cheers Thanks Frank!
When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?
Would your subfloor/wall insulation system be suitable if only doing one major room renovation (bathroom with one exterior wall) in a already finished basement (1964 cold climate home)? Thanks for the great content.
Hey, great videos as always. Planning on finishing my basement of my newly built house in Quebec. The exterior walls are already isolated with sprayed Urethane and drywall. Electrical rough is already done. Ceiling are still open. Can I install the subfloor like the one you have directly on the cement without removing the exterior drywall? I'm planning on install vinyl floor. Can I do my framing with 2x3 to save space? Do I need to put a subfloor under the shower base? Thank you!
Hi Jeff, If a newer house has been settled for several years and no sign of water leaks or cracks, what is the risk of not ripping out the blanket insulation from 1-10 scale? Do you have a plan to make a video just to talk about building permit for finishing basement? maybe use Ontario as talking point? I think that will help a lot of DIYer who may not know all the details. Thanks!
Hey ! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.
I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?
We're planning on re-doing our basement currently. Our home was built in 1956. What are your thoughts on metal framing using a subfloor?
I have an interior vapor membrane on my basement walls, would you still use the foam board on top of that? Then frame then insulate?
Great vid as always, thanks for the content. Have you made a video that shows how to get the gypsum board into the basement? I don't have an egress window and my stairway to the basement has a landing with a 180 turn. Thanks for any assistance you can give.
Watched this just after I finished my basement. What have I done...
How did you do.i am yet to do. What you suggest
You done messed up like i did the first time in my 20's. Now in my 40's I'm tearing it all out and doing it right
Yea same here! I wish Ai would have been a little quicker on showing me this video.
Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.
I'd have itchy fingers after tapping my hands that insulation so much! Great info, boss! Thank you
I went to Homedepot today and found this panel, $8.4 per panel. hope worth the money.: ) Thank you Jeff
Great video, thank you Jeff, I learned a lot
Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.
How do you install basement subfloor around utilities? Thank you for the great content!
Fantastic! Makes making the basement a kids space easier. Money up front,but return overall. Appreciate you and your family / team!
Thank you Joshua. Happy to help!
Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions:
How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer?
We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?
you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer,
dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.
Hi Jeff, I’ve been watching your videos and educating myself on construction and building science. Thank you so much for all the knowledge you’ve shared. I’d like your advice on this - over a year ago, before I knew any better, I had a contractor replace carpet with hardwood floor in the basement. They simply glued the wood onto the concrete…ugh how I wish I could go back in time. Now we’re planning to re-do the drywall and insulation in the basement. Not sure what’s behind the wall yet, but it’s likely 2x4 beams and fiberglass insulation or no insulation. What’s your recommendation for the new system (wall & insulation)? It may not make sense to redo the flooring at this point? Now I guess it’s more important to keep the basement dry and well insulated? Please help. Thank you in advance.
Hi, I watched one of your videos where you expressed the importance of putting up foam board against the foundation of a new house before framing it out and installing the fiberglass insullation between thr studs. I took your advice and bought 15 8×4 pannel thus far of the 25 I think ill need. In preparation of buying the lumber i did some further research on metal vs wood studs to discover using metal studs is a far more attractive alternative to wood. With that said, I watched one of your videos on framing metal studs and it appeared as though the rigid foam board may no longer be neccessary. If you wouldnt mind clarifying if im still on the right track with using faom board behind metal studs with fiberglass between them I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks ,Chris
You should still use foam boards, as it will add extra R value and will partially act as a vapor barrier (not to compromise fiberglass insulation's R value due to wetness).
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed contractor but a home DIYer.
Absolutely still use the foam board. The rigid foam is there to provide insulation. The type of stud you use will not impact this, and fiberglass insulation directly against concrete is a no-no.
I don’t waste my time going anywhere else for DIY help. Thank you for your channel
Cheers David!
Hey Jeff! I'm down in the south, and I keep running into this issue where the basements in the houses I'm looking at are all crazy wet. There's white powder on the cinderblock walls and nothing seems to keep it all dry. Is this system sufficient to fix those problems, or would I need to add some kind of vapor barrier on the outside of the walls? Thanks
Great video. Clear and easy guide. We’re thinking about finishing the attached garage which is above ground but on a concrete slab. If we tile the floor do I need to install a sub floor? Thanks.
no but i would use a schluter ditra membrane first to protect against the ;possibility of future cracks, this also allows you to add a floor heat source to make the room comfortable to sit in if you get cold weather where you live. Cheers!
Hi, will this be the same for a full walkout basement with all the living space being above ground level?
With blanket insulation?
Thanks for all the great videos. Do I need to use concrete leveler in my raised ranch basement before the Dricore subfloor panels go down? Or can I just put the Dricore panels right down on top of the concrete floor. It was a finished basement before but i know the floor is slightly out of level in some spots.
Another fantastic video. Just wondering how you would handle a 2006 home with Superior Walls? They already have built in foam with an R12 rating, but the fact that they incorporate concrete “studs” makes me wonder how I can use a system like this.
Great video! Is the stippled membrane with tongue and groove plywood combo from your older video still a viable option? It's turning out to be cheaper if I do it that way vs the dricore. It's a difference of 600 bucks... wanted your thoughts before I commit.
Really great video. Thanks for the good explanations and visual example. For older homes, what's your thoughts on using 1x furring strips spiked through the doam into the concrete, to hang the drywall on. Or Framing with 2 x 3 studs. Just not sure why one would opt for the extra cost of 2 x 4 studs with r 12 insulation if the foam board is already there. Thanks
really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.
Jeff - my house was built in 1940, and I have a fieldstone basement. I don’t have a nice flat concrete wall to adhere the closed cell foam to. What would you do in my case (and don’t say sell the house)?
First time home owner, long time handy man but much to learn. Your videos have been super helpful. Curious how the process would change when you have a waterproofed basement with poured walls, with the subwall and plastic barrier? Would the solid insulation just get glued directly to the wall barrier?
not very common but yes that will work fine. the pl 200 does not degrade foam or plastic
Vapor barriers against foundation on the interior is against the IBC now.
Would you recommend this subfloor for a 'slab on grade' install? The floor gets quite cold in the winter so I am looking to insulate it
I’ve read that you should put the subfloor up to the studs (leaving a gap) vs under the studs. In case you have a flood you don’t have an issue that you need to remove walls when you replace the subfloor. Which is better?
Wouldn't you then have to replace the bottom of the studs anyway due to the flood?
I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.
Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!
Hi Jeff, I have new construction done just the way you described in the video. I am wondering if I can put the r-22 insulation compressed into the 2x4 wall after I place 2-inch foam behind it. It would be a shame to throw out all that r-22 insulation and buy new r-12 (it seems to be in good shape still). The r value would decrease to about r-13 but would still get the same overall effect in the end without spending on new fiberglass for the 2x4 wall ...
Hi Jeff, love your video's!!! Does this also apply to interior concrete basement walls meaning between my townhouse and the next? My current basement has insulation already at the exterior 2 walls but nothing between me and the 2 next door basements. I'm new to all this so wathing all your video's to get tips. I am super handy but new to this so can't wait to do my basement (currently rought in). Also, does interior basement walls have any benefit of being insulated also apart from sound (this is for the thin walls this time) between my own interior basement walls.
Thank you so much for explaining clearly enough so a soccer mom can follow! Love your channel and your content.
Cheers to soccer mom's.
after building your wood wall frame over the installation boards do you need to caulk it down to the sub floor to keep it air tight before putting your floor panels down?
This video is eye opening! Great video as always!!!! Makes me want to do redo all my basement which is finished already when I bought it, but is super cold. Just something that I realised on 3:35, as far as I saw here in Quebec, the pink fiberglass does not touch the concrete. There is a gap between concrete and the framing, yes, but the pink fiberglass is trapped as a sandwich between vapour barriers within the framing.
I live in Quebec and my house is from 1990 exactly. I have some missing fiberglass between the concrete and the framing on the top joist and I can see a cold air flow coming into my basement which uses suspended ceiling. I discovered some videos that insulating the rim joist with rigid boards and insulating foam sealant with mineral wool after is a must. I read that it can cause condensation and rot the wood. Would you recommend to do this to reduce heat loss? and what would you check before applying this procedure?
Thank you Jeff!
Thanks so much for all of your videos! In an earlier video I think you had discussed dricore insul-Armor subfloor. Does that out perform the R+ insulated subfloor? Is it worth the extra couple bucks if I can get my hands on the insul-armor?
I have a 1960’s home basement in Michigan that is unfinished at this time. I am wondering as i start to finish the basement the recommended order, should i start framing walls first then put the dricore panels in each room or should i start with dricore panels throughout the whole basement then frame out walls separating rooms on top of the dricore?
so many gems , THANK YOU!
Have a 1955 home in Michigan and needed to put in reinforcement beams (I-beam, 4-1/4" deep) to fix foundation cracks/bowing. Any thoughts on applying insulation/finish wall for that situation?
in your case I would suggest tyvek on the walls and then frame 2x4 with a 2" space like new home construction. use R20 insulation ij the stud cavities. Cheers! Not perfect but not terrible either. Or you can spray foam if the cost is not too prohibitive.
Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.
On a basement wall, plain concrete what do you recommend to hang brick panels, like the ones in this video? I cannot throw walls up due to PVC on the wall. I don’t want to glue
I really appreciate the insight and information. I have a unique situation for a breezeway that was converted to a mudroom. Front and back walls are exterior. Left wall goes to unconditional garage with a step down to the concrete floor. Right wall interfaces with the kitchen wall with a step up thru a doorway. I need to rebuild front and back walls due to some rot. I want to put down a subfloor for thermal break and I think moisture control as the last wall sill plate rotted out. However my concern is height so that new exterior doors can still open with the new subfloor. That and step heights in and out of the room are still safe. I imagine subfloor will reside inside the exterior framing and my walls will not be built on top of the New subfloor. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
Do I install the rigid board over top the sub floor? Or can I install the rigid board first and follow with the sub floor panels? Thanks
@homerenovisiondiy can I still do the same if using Dricore foam subfloor? to have the frame and drywall rest on top of it? their installation video recommends to install the wallframing first before putting dricore.