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Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress
Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!
Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.
When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.
Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.
When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?
I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be
Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.
I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!
Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?
Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers
I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.
really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.
A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.
Hey ! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.
I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?
I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?
Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.
basements in the Midwest here are not a lousy investment..When its always cold out its a great place to hang out and adds much value on one that is done right.Sold our last house about 5 years ago and i did an "open" concept basement.finished it all myself other than the finish of the drywall..We did nothing fancy,had good carpet,etc...People couldnt believe it and was one of the main reasons our house sold for asking and fast..Now if you pay someone to do all of it...then the return is not there but doing it yourself and doing it right it can really pay off. like reinventing the wheel with all you have going on there with the subfloor and foam board and then framing..suddenly your house just became smaller!wow..not saying there isnt a place for this,just saying its not reality and economical..
I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha). My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?
best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!
The house I bought had that type of insulation (what I call as roofing I insulation) and it got wet and smelly. Threw it all out, threw the cheap picture paneling out too. Put in styrofoam insulation, painted the walls with waterproof paint n sealer. Then put up nice 1/4” thick real wood paneling. 💯 better basement now. And and a good dehumidifier!
The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.
If you are an engineer building a new house, consider insulating outside the foundation and under the floor. This makes the concrete an asset rather than a liability by adding thermal mass inside the home making it more passive. Materials vary by climate and the amount of foundation exposed, but it is essential to put a metal termite barrier at the top.
Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.
Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.
Hello Jeff. I am considering this method for my basement re-insulation. I have a comment and a question. First, I am in Thunder Bay. 1950s bungalow bought in 2020, solidly built, basement partially finished with 1960s style panelling. wall-to-wall carpet and drop ceiling, sump pump and backflow valve, no leaks, no mustiness, carpeting is dry, painted cement block foundation wall, 2x4 studs and R-10 fiberglass, "loose" wall assembly (therefore drafty basement), minimal dampness around edges of some pieces of insulation, no mould in sections of wall I have checked. My comment: About two years ago I wrapped some large, heavy boxes in plastic wrap and stored them on a shelf right up against a section of exposed concrete block. A couple of months ago I removed them from the shelf and saw black mould wherever the plastic wrap had been touching the wall. This is why I am gravitating toward your approach of building an air gap into the wall assembly. Now my question: what about the rim joist? Do I continue that air space into the rim joist along the bottom plate and up into the joist to allow moisture to exit the wall above grade? Or do I forget about the air space at that point and fill the rim joist area with a layer of rigid board and batt insulation?
I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.
Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.
I really enjoy your videos. I am in a process of making my basement. I was hoping if you can answer couple of questions. It's a walkout basement. Half of the basement is framed and insulated the bottom half is the wrapped insulation. I am getting mixed advise as to leave the wrap and add more insulation after framing in front of it. I would really appreciate your help in this. Thank you
Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?
Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.
Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.
I recently did a mold remediation job on a basement that had drainage mat and plywood. The water had gotten higher than the mat was essentially turning it into a thousand tiny swimming pools that never drain. It also soaked the plywood causing it to rot and mold. I tell people all the time if they want bomb proof flooring in a basement tile is the only way to go. You can install vinyl planks and when the water comes, and it will, your at the mercy of whatever untrained monkey is going to trying to dismantle your planks to try to "save" them. The newer system seems to make more sense only for the fact that its a smaller product and in the event it gets wet there would be less to replace. Just my 2 cents though. Thanks for the vid and looking forward to watching the water testing.
I'm glad you mentioned this. Since basement floors have high and low spots once water gets in the low spot I suspect it will remain there. Example: One third of my floor pitches towards the sump pump. the other third is relatively flat while the remainder dips towards the corners and perimeter. I don't see how these areas could ever dry out. And it's amazing how much water is in those low areas. Don't ask how I know!
Agreed I did cheap planks in my basement got semi flooded and had to tear it all out. I replaced it with tile if it ever gets wet or water it's soaks it right up.
This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂 I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!
Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone? I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.
Great video, clearest walk through of finishing a basement I've seen. Can I use a product like RadonSeal on my 1986 basement concrete slab to prevent moisture?
Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.
This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.
after building your wood wall frame over the installation boards do you need to caulk it down to the sub floor to keep it air tight before putting your floor panels down?
Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos
Why wouldn't you install the dimple mat, then the XPS wall foam, followed by the plywood subfloor instead? Doesn't this method risk moisture directly impacting the OSB plywood sides?
I was thinking about this, too, it seems like you'd almost need to install the foam board first, and then the dimple/OSB inside of it to avoid the edge of the OSB hitting water/moisture coming down the walls
I love the way you frame with the two types of insulation, but the thing I don’t like about that is it makes your windowsills a foot and a half deep by the time you’re all said and done.
Question- my floor in the basement has an epoxy layer. Would it still be recommended to us the subfloor system or can I just lay the vynil floor on top ?
Hi Jeff! Just reviewing again your advices after just getting some water from Debby… What about sprayed foam? Too expensive? Pros and cons? Since it automatically acts as a Vapor barrier wouldn’t it be a time saver?
Would it be possible to create a subfloor similar to the product you shared but with pressure treated lumber, cut down to about 1", a vapor barrier, and osb? Im trying to finish a room on a budget. I appreciate youre videos, youve helped me on many home reno projects!
Really great video. Thanks for the good explanations and visual example. For older homes, what's your thoughts on using 1x furring strips spiked through the doam into the concrete, to hang the drywall on. Or Framing with 2 x 3 studs. Just not sure why one would opt for the extra cost of 2 x 4 studs with r 12 insulation if the foam board is already there. Thanks
I will be starting all this soon. I will be using Dricore Insul Armor R-4.1. Since I will be putting framing directly on top of this material do I still need to get pressure treated wood anymore? 2nd question...Do I just put nail right thru the wood and into insulation? TIA
Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always! What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?
at 8:20, when we sit a 2x4 frame on the OSB, do we need a pressure-treated 2x4 for the base piece and use the concrete nails to fix it on the concrete floor? That means we can't change the OSB board unless unscrewing the wood frame first.
Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?
So I finished my basement 4 days ago and now we have drywall up. I did a ton of research and it seems like everyone has a different opinion, I talked to 4 local contractors, then did research online for my climate zone. I'll let you know in a few years if I have moisture issues. We did firing strips on concrete (it's a half wall concrete and then studs above) and filled that with rigid foam insulation with foil backing. Faced the foil to Interior of home. Firing strip rests just above concrete. No subfloor system, did carpet with vapor barrier pad. And LVP with padding. Fingers crossed, you have me all worried now.
there are plenty of ways to finish a basement that are good. this is just the best design I have found out there that solves a large number of problems no matter how old or new a house is and it does not have a down side in any situation. Cheers!
I'm planning on renovating the basement in my 1950 built house. no sump pump, no exterior water protection. Also haven't had water in the basement in the 10 years I've been there. Planning on Dricore subfloor and foam board on the exterior walls. To prevent damage from potential water events, I'm using as little organic materials as possible. I'll be steel studs, vinyl flooring, and rockwool in the stud bays. I think I'll be a winning combination. Only thing I have to figure it is synthetic alternatives to osb subfloor and drywall.
Do you have a floor drain? If there's a flooding event, the water should travel under the osb and drywall to the floor drain. You could also dig a sump pit and pump. Its involved obviously, and hauling dirt and concrete sucks, but it's not particularly difficult. There's a good This Old House episode on digging your own sump pump pit.
Hi I have a new house with an unfinished basement. The basement does have exterior taped dry walls on a treated lumber (I can't tell how wide it is). Should I put the Dricore as close as possible to the wall and lumber? Should I leave a gap? I
I just became a member and love your video above. I have a few questions: 1) Does the Foam Board need to be 2" R10 or can it be 1.5" R7.50 2) Should I tape the foam board to the Dri-Core or use Great Stuff Insulating Foam 3) you mention using a vapour barrier, but the government site says I should use a Smart Barrier. Should I use one and if so which should I buy? P.S. I will be using Rockwool R14 between the studs.
all you need is r 7.5 for the rigid. and for best results in older houses use the subfloor and then install the rigid on top or leave a gap to slide it under. seal with a thin window foam so seal and not fill the air cavity. Not sure where you live so I can't comment on the barrier. always follow local building code. Cheers!
Do you seal where the foam board is resting on the subfloor, to prevent air leakage between the exterior wall and interior living space ? If so, with caulk or spray foam ?
I'm considering redoing my own basement. We get a lot of movement on our property during the seasons. The walls buckle a lot. So what do I anchor the walls to so they have enough space to move with the house? Should they anchor to the ceiling joists and float above the floor? Or should they be anchored through the concrete flooring and a gap left up near the joists?
great video! but one Question: my basement walls where poured in the 1930's and by no mean are straight. how does this effect the installation process of the foam board? any trip and tricks for uneven basement walls?
Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!
Would love to hear your thoughts on spray foam in basements for vapour barrier/insulation but also used on the basement ceiling for soundproofing. Is this worth the money to save time and steps? What do you think? Thanks keep up the good work!
We did spray foam insulation in our basement after a major hurricane flooding. The basement didn’t feel muggy at all. Was always a comfortable cool year round.
spray foam is the best choice for thermal break and gives great sound protection for folks who can afford it. This method is an alternative for half the cost and allows future access to foundation cracks in older homes.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you! I was about to make that mistake in my 1955 house. Would you also recommend to avoid spray foam on the rim joist in between the floor joist? What’s the best insulation for the rim joist in your opinion for an old house ?
I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!
Hi Jeff, great video, as always. But what about fire blocking, don't you need to fireblock that gap between the rigid foam and the concrete wall at the top? If you do, than this moist air has nowhere to go.
Thanks for the great video! Where I live there are codes related to fire blocking in the walls. The vertical blocks shouldn't affect the movement of moisture you describe, but I'm a little concerned about the fire blocking at the top of the walls affecting air movement into the subfloor above. Do you have any suggestions?
Jeff I have been a fan for many years. This is my first comment ever - I just could not keep silent. The advice on finishing the basement wall you provide is plain dangerous. The warm air will come into the gap at the top cool down as it passes the cavity and move down to exit at the bottom as it becomes heavier. While that is happening moisture from the warm air will condense on the cold concrete wall. There will be a waterfall between the concrete and the insulation in winter. The only way to not have condensation in winter is to isolate warm air from the cold concrete wall. That can be done with continuous spray foaming or a tightly applied foam board with foamed joints and no gap at the top or slab. While you are correct about the minimum building code in cold climates the advice you are giving is to be avoided!
if you install the rigid foam all the way up to the joists and them lay r20 batt on the sill plate and 2 layers of rigid on the rim with foam you seal out warm air from having access in the winter. your thoughts on waterfall only happen if you fail to continue the insulation and vapor barriers. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You are now talking about preventing the air from going in between the foam and the concrete wall. That's exactly my point. Why the whole story about intentionally leaving a gap? You are literally talking about air moving through that gap in the video...
I am saying that the air space will come into contact with the framing of the house which will then transfer it to the outside of the main floor and balance out the relative humidity. wood transfers water. Cheers!
Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions: How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer? We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?
you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer, dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.
I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.
Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.
I have a hard time deciding how to insulate my basement walls in my 74 house (no insulation or vapour barrier on outside) since there's a lot of different views on the vapor barrier in a basement. Some say it's a big no no and some day you need one... I love in northern climates (often -20/-15°c in the winter) and my basement is i would say 50/50 under and above ground
great system to follow. Do you think DUROSPAN GPS R10 can be used instead of the formboard in your video. While much cheaper per sq ft, will it be as effective?
I really appreciate the insight and information. I have a unique situation for a breezeway that was converted to a mudroom. Front and back walls are exterior. Left wall goes to unconditional garage with a step down to the concrete floor. Right wall interfaces with the kitchen wall with a step up thru a doorway. I need to rebuild front and back walls due to some rot. I want to put down a subfloor for thermal break and I think moisture control as the last wall sill plate rotted out. However my concern is height so that new exterior doors can still open with the new subfloor. That and step heights in and out of the room are still safe. I imagine subfloor will reside inside the exterior framing and my walls will not be built on top of the New subfloor. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
I'm assuming with this system that the moisture escapes eventually through the rim joists. So, how does this system work if the rim joists have been insulated and sealed? Where would the moisture go?
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Cheers!
Jeff!! My name is also Jeff! Now that we have that out of the way, THANK YOU. You’ve validated everything I’ve watched or heard on this subject in the past few weeks. I’m half way through ripping my basement apart , built in the 80s and you’re exactly right. No vapour barriers of any kind. And it’s surprisingly dry but musty lately. A few signs of mould starting. Time to make some big changes. I’ll keep you posted on progress
Planing for this as material is not cheap these days…. Lool about 1500 sqf basement!!! You guys are awesome!
Valuable information on insulating a basement. One thing I would like for you to mention is egress. I know this really is about the finish product, but in most local building codes, basement living space requires 2-forms of egress; stair case and windows (this is not for walk out basements). DYI, please keep this in mind before deep investments of finishing off the basement. The foam board is such an advantage to finishing off basement walls these days. I love Rockwool insulation in the framing bays (agree cost is more expensive). I love the ease of installment, fire proof and holds up great if you have a flood. Great video!
I've watched lots of other videos, no one explained the details like you did. It's very helpful ❤ thank you.
Thank you so much! I plan on finishing my basement this year. I have all your basement videos saved in a folder. I promise to do before and after photos.
Cheers Joe, Happy to be of help! Enjoy the project!
SENDITTTT
How'd it go?
@guitarchitectural I got slowed down by undiagnosed and untreated diabetes. I am about 1 week from final inspection for half the basement.
@@joet3935hope it went well! Take care
Wow, within the first 5 mins, you perfectly described my basement and what is wrong with it!
I’m sure glad I found this video, I’m in the process of redoing my basement. My house is where I grew up and it just turned 125 years old. 👍
When I was learning renovation work, I was told to treat the concrete itself as liquid. I see that forgotten often in many situations. I love your explanation and system as it accounts for this. If you have no vapor/moisture barrier under your slab or outside your walls, then moisture will wick through your walls and floor. If you have a vapor barrier and insulation outside, then moisture in the concrete needs to go somewhere, and since it cannot go out, it's going to go in.
I'm a newby home owner in an older home and your content is very good! Just wanted to say thank you. Cheers!
I appreciate that! Cheers!
Wow This video has got to be super helpful for any DIY'er that wants to finish their basement and just get it done right the first time
Cheers!
Love your videos. I used those drycore floor squares and had a beam pocket leak. It made its way down the wall and under the floor and in a low spot, then soaked up the seam and swelled the wood. Not a full water proof system like when you rolled out the dimple sheet.
This might be the best, most informative and interesting home reno video I've ever watched. Thank you.
When finishing a basement do you do that subfloor first and then build the interior walls on top of that or do you do the interior walls first and then the floor?
I used the foam wall system about 10 years ago on my previous home and it works wonderfully. Just started at our new home and I'm using the exact system here. Bonus points, if you are in Canada the system shown will get you about $1700 in rebates and the insulation for the walls is almost free in the end. Priced out the materials to do this and it will be
that is great to hear, thanks for the hint.
Thanks for sharing. Under what program do you get the rebates? Does it work for finishing the basement of a newer home as well?
@@chadiverson9291 I believe he is talking about Canada Greener Homes Grant
Did you put a vapor barrier on top of the studs and insulation?
@@Dannyryan73No. The foam layer takes care of that.
Man, I was literally just thinking of finding a vapor barrier and installing LVP over my concrete floor in the basement of my 1968 home ... Glad I found this video and did my research on it.
I went to Homedepot today and found this panel, $8.4 per panel. hope worth the money.: ) Thank you Jeff
This was one of the best videos I have ever watched on “how to”.
I have superior walls in my home. Built in 98. I didn't realize I could use fiberglass in between studs. Didn't know it had a vapor barrier in concrete. Thank you!
Great content, thanks Jeff! Would you consider also doing a video on how to frame floating basement walls (required in places like Colorado with expansive soils), and also touching on how to solve tricky floating issues around doors, floor cabinets and tub/shower bases?
Thanks Jeff! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1950s house on Long Island, NY and while not looking for a heavy use living space in the basement, I want a nice option to throw some darts and bang on a drum kit. Cheers
Thank you so much for explaining clearly enough so a soccer mom can follow! Love your channel and your content.
Cheers to soccer mom's.
Dude, thank you so much. You present the info in a way that is easy to follow and understand, and I feel like I've really learned some things!
How is it you always deliver exactly the content I need EXACTLY when I need it? 😻😻
I have no idea. Cheers!
I did a dritek floor system or something. Cleated 2x2 osb board basically. I couldn't get a contractor to do them, so I did...pretty easy project to be honest. Definitely worth it too in terms of warm floors all year long.
really wish basements were more commonly added to new housing, but then again not like i can afford a house as a mid 20s man of only one salary in Oregon. When the time comes all the videos I binge of yours will come in handy for sure.
A video on Basement steps would be great. I Recently bought an older home (1960s) and a few steps are loose/split. Looking to replace the planks or even redo the whole staircase if materials are priced decent.
Hey ! We actually went a slightly different route at the end of the day but most of it still applies. We installed the subfloor of dimpled membrane with 5/8” OSB on top about 1” to the concrete wall (different everywhere cause the concrete is not straight at all!). Then, built the 2x4 wall, 2” from the concrete (again not consistently since we used a laser level to ensure a perfectly straight wall; highly recommend this) and hired a company to spray foam 3” of closed cell spray foam. This obviously got rid of the moisture issues potentially hitting the wood as the spray foam went to the floor but what we were likely planning on doing otherwise is doing a vapour barrier around the OSB and tucking is under the walls sill plate to prevent any moisture issues down the road. Just have to say though that the method of using simple membrane with OSB on top is unbelievably genius! The floor is significantly warmer and nice to walk in similar to a ground or second floor with a bit of cushion; unlike concrete.
I’m a new member here, and wow - great stuff! We live in Winnipeg, house built in 1949 and we’re looking at a similar approach having a 3rd party spray foam the basement’s concrete foundation walls. Jeff, I’ve seen you talk about the wall insulation solution where 2” R-10 rigid foam is attached with blobs of LePage PL 300 to the concrete, then walls are framed and insulated with pink fibreglass, which leaves an air gap between the concrete wall and rigid foam, allowing moisture from the under the subfloor to travel up the walls to evaporate. No mould! Question for Jeff: With a raised subfloor option like Dricore or “dimpled membrane with OSB” that provides an air gap along the floor and allows moisture to travel underneath, what is the impact when spray foam covers the walls and seals at the floor, thereby eliminating the air gap along the wall?
You are so knowledgeable and generous! Thank you!
That was great information Jeff. All makes sense. Thanks!!
Cheers john!
I had basically settled on following this exact plan before I even saw this. Grateful for the validation. One question: when framing out the walls onto the subfloor panels, should I just nail them to the subfloor panels? Or should I Tapcon or Ramset the bottom plates all the way down into the concrete?
Dricore recommends screwing the bottom plate to the subfloor with 2" wood screws and then tapcon/ramset through the bottom plate into the concrete with 3" anchors every 4'.
basements in the Midwest here are not a lousy investment..When its always cold out its a great place to hang out and adds much value on one that is done right.Sold our last house about 5 years ago and i did an "open" concept basement.finished it all myself other than the finish of the drywall..We did nothing fancy,had good carpet,etc...People couldnt believe it and was one of the main reasons our house sold for asking and fast..Now if you pay someone to do all of it...then the return is not there but doing it yourself and doing it right it can really pay off.
like reinventing the wheel with all you have going on there with the subfloor and foam board and then framing..suddenly your house just became smaller!wow..not saying there isnt a place for this,just saying its not reality and economical..
I'm about 75% done finishing my basement out, and your videos have been a Godsend! I've probably watched 80+ hours of them over the past 6 months! As this is my first real home improvement project, it's been unbelievably helpful walking me through all the various processes (And helping me decide when getting a professional was the right choice haha).
My Question is - I'm deciding to cheat and not do a subfloor system as my townhome is only about 5 years old. I'm in Utah. Do you have an LVP underlayment system that you heavily prefer?
best choice is anything with a cork backing. floor and decor sells a cork underlayment in a roll. 2nd option 3mm eva underpad for sound control. Cheers!
The house I bought had that type of insulation (what I call as roofing I insulation) and it got wet and smelly. Threw it all out, threw the cheap picture paneling out too. Put in styrofoam insulation, painted the walls with waterproof paint n sealer. Then put up nice 1/4” thick real wood paneling. 💯 better basement
now. And and a good dehumidifier!
The Dricore product Insul-Armor looks to be a pretty solid product. Doesn’t need plywood/osb which saves money and precious height. Limits flooring options to only floating floors though.
If you are an engineer building a new house, consider insulating outside the foundation and under the floor. This makes the concrete an asset rather than a liability by adding thermal mass inside the home making it more passive.
Materials vary by climate and the amount of foundation exposed, but it is essential to put a metal termite barrier at the top.
What you are describing is ICF construction, Insulated Concrete Forms,R-30, with no thermal bridging.
Thanks Jeff love all you help, and appreciate your time.
Hey Jeff big fan of your channel, I work in new home construction and with the builders I've worked for and the others I have observed they do not install vapour barrier underneath the basement concrete. Unless a client/purchaser asks for it but its not a common thing I've seen in the industry.
What do you do for the rim joists and the space above your wall? Insulate? Rigid foam?
I'd have itchy fingers after tapping my hands that insulation so much! Great info, boss! Thank you
Pls add small pics of the products u give examples of as u speak of them e.g vapour barrier , waterproof membrane, subfloors etc . Love your videos. Keep ‘em coming.
Hello Jeff. I am considering this method for my basement re-insulation. I have a comment and a question. First, I am in Thunder Bay. 1950s bungalow bought in 2020, solidly built, basement partially finished with 1960s style panelling. wall-to-wall carpet and drop ceiling, sump pump and backflow valve, no leaks, no mustiness, carpeting is dry, painted cement block foundation wall, 2x4 studs and R-10 fiberglass, "loose" wall assembly (therefore drafty basement), minimal dampness around edges of some pieces of insulation, no mould in sections of wall I have checked. My comment: About two years ago I wrapped some large, heavy boxes in plastic wrap and stored them on a shelf right up against a section of exposed concrete block. A couple of months ago I removed them from the shelf and saw black mould wherever the plastic wrap had been touching the wall. This is why I am gravitating toward your approach of building an air gap into the wall assembly. Now my question: what about the rim joist? Do I continue that air space into the rim joist along the bottom plate and up into the joist to allow moisture to exit the wall above grade? Or do I forget about the air space at that point and fill the rim joist area with a layer of rigid board and batt insulation?
I love the explanation and watching this channel. Since I am not that good at construction projects and very impatient, I am spending the extra money on the Dricore system.
Thanks, im currently doing a makeover of the basement and these are great tip. im halfway done (subfloor with thermal barrier, and rigid insulation on the wall so far) and can already feel a big difference. one issue i ran in were the Tapcon screw snapping on me. i first used the 3/16 3inch screw and before i could get any compression (head of screw inbedding inside the osb) it would just snap off, so i went back to buy 1/4 3 inch screw instead and they worked much better. Overall this system seems to works great so far, cant wait to be all done.
I really enjoy your videos. I am in a process of making my basement. I was hoping if you can answer couple of questions. It's a walkout basement. Half of the basement is framed and insulated the bottom half is the wrapped insulation. I am getting mixed advise as to leave the wrap and add more insulation after framing in front of it. I would really appreciate your help in this. Thank you
Question 6:29. How does the bottom of the wall look in this setup? Does the foam board sit on the concrete? Does it sit on part of the frame? The subfloor isn't installed first right?
If renovation was a martial art, this man is a 7th degree black belt!
Do you recommend waterproofing Walls and floors first? Necessary or Not? Radeon gas from the ground may pass through cracks on the basement floor with cracks.
Hi Jeff, thank you soooo much for all your content. It really helps to know what's going on, whether I do it myself or end up hiring somebody out. Are you going to do a video on a basement subfloor for an old house when the basement is extremely uneven, especially near a floor drain(3-5 in slope)? Most the videos that I've seen you do, the concrete appears relatively level and could be adjusted using a grinder or leveling compound.
I recently did a mold remediation job on a basement that had drainage mat and plywood. The water had gotten higher than the mat was essentially turning it into a thousand tiny swimming pools that never drain. It also soaked the plywood causing it to rot and mold. I tell people all the time if they want bomb proof flooring in a basement tile is the only way to go. You can install vinyl planks and when the water comes, and it will, your at the mercy of whatever untrained monkey is going to trying to dismantle your planks to try to "save" them. The newer system seems to make more sense only for the fact that its a smaller product and in the event it gets wet there would be less to replace. Just my 2 cents though. Thanks for the vid and looking forward to watching the water testing.
I'm glad you mentioned this. Since basement floors have high and low spots once water gets in the low spot I suspect it will remain there. Example: One third of my floor pitches towards the sump pump. the other third is relatively flat while the remainder dips towards the corners and perimeter. I don't see how these areas could ever dry out. And it's amazing how much water is in those low areas. Don't ask how I know!
Agreed I did cheap planks in my basement got semi flooded and had to tear it all out. I replaced it with tile if it ever gets wet or water it's soaks it right up.
Or polished cement
How do you install basement subfloor around utilities? Thank you for the great content!
This is explained in a way even I understand it. 🙂
I have a ranch style home in Virginia built in the early 1970's. I'm going to be finishing the basement so I can have that added value when I go to sell it in a few years. Thanks for this video, it's just what I needed!!!
Cheers to Virginia!
Any thoughts on doing an epoxy floor in an older home's basement?
Hi Jeff, I live in Ottawa area and love your channel. This is the first time I ever logged in to actually comment on UTube, so hoping I do this correct. My question is the same as another person here regarding the top of your solution where it meets the rim/floor joist. How is it finished? I can't visualize the flow of air up there and am leaning to just sealing it all the way out of the cavity until it is flush with the foam board. Thoughts? Anyone?
I watched a similar video where there is no gap between the foam and the concrete and it is sealed basically from floor to ceiling. Then the wall is built in front sitting on the foundation using pressure treated lumber (no sub floor under the wall). This is an 80s home and seems to be dry. There is also a sump in a far corner that has a little standing water but never seems to change so I am guessing there is generally no exterior water issues.
Great video, clearest walk through of finishing a basement I've seen. Can I use a product like RadonSeal on my 1986 basement concrete slab to prevent moisture?
Have you looked at Dricore's Insul-Armor product? It's 4'x2' sheets of rigid foam, no OSB. Much lighter, easier to cut. Tong and groove. Dricore says you can frame on top of it.
This is so different than what our basement company did here in the North East. We have a 1950's basement and they used 6" steel studs with R19 throughout. They also just laid the vinyl plank flooring directly to the slab. The space is conditioned with a mini split unit that does heating, cooling and dehumidification. Time will tell how it holds up. Basement has no indication of moisture or musty smell. I can confirm no water events since 2003.
Hi, will this be the same for a full walkout basement with all the living space being above ground level?
With blanket insulation?
after building your wood wall frame over the installation boards do you need to caulk it down to the sub floor to keep it air tight before putting your floor panels down?
Looking to re do my basement, have a handful of questions. I just joined and hoped we can converse soon. Have a great day! My wife and I enjoy your videos
Why wouldn't you install the dimple mat, then the XPS wall foam, followed by the plywood subfloor instead? Doesn't this method risk moisture directly impacting the OSB plywood sides?
I was thinking about this, too, it seems like you'd almost need to install the foam board first, and then the dimple/OSB inside of it to avoid the edge of the OSB hitting water/moisture coming down the walls
I love the way you frame with the two types of insulation, but the thing I don’t like about that is it makes your windowsills a foot and a half deep by the time you’re all said and done.
Question- my floor in the basement has an epoxy layer. Would it still be recommended to us the subfloor system or can I just lay the vynil floor on top ?
Awesome video, thanks Jeff! One question, would adding a vapor barrier not run the risk of creating a double vapour barrier with the foam board?
i was going to do polyurethane basement floor.. is that a bad idea? your concept of the subfloor in this video is interesting.
Great video, thank you Jeff, I learned a lot
Hi Jeff! Just reviewing again your advices after just getting some water from Debby… What about sprayed foam? Too expensive? Pros and cons? Since it automatically acts as a Vapor barrier wouldn’t it be a time saver?
Would it be possible to create a subfloor similar to the product you shared but with pressure treated lumber, cut down to about 1", a vapor barrier, and osb? Im trying to finish a room on a budget.
I appreciate youre videos, youve helped me on many home reno projects!
Really great video. Thanks for the good explanations and visual example. For older homes, what's your thoughts on using 1x furring strips spiked through the doam into the concrete, to hang the drywall on. Or Framing with 2 x 3 studs. Just not sure why one would opt for the extra cost of 2 x 4 studs with r 12 insulation if the foam board is already there. Thanks
Would you consider using thinner polyiso with a foil exterior in place of rigid foam?
What do you think about using Thermal dry insulated floor decking and total basement finishing everlasting wall panels ?
I will be starting all this soon. I will be using Dricore Insul Armor R-4.1. Since I will be putting framing directly on top of this material do I still need to get pressure treated wood anymore? 2nd question...Do I just put nail right thru the wood and into insulation? TIA
Thanks for the video, Jeff - great content as always!
What about for areas like steel columns? Would you use pressure treated plates around them directly on the concrete and then have the subfloor product abut against the pressure treated lumber? Or would you just bring the subfloor as close to the column as possible and then frame directly on top of the subfloor?
Learned a lot. Thanks for posting
at 8:20, when we sit a 2x4 frame on the OSB, do we need a pressure-treated 2x4 for the base piece and use the concrete nails to fix it on the concrete floor? That means we can't change the OSB board unless unscrewing the wood frame first.
Hey Jeff, thanks for awesome videos! Quick question before I start on my basement using your guidance. Can I use a Ramset to secure subfloor panels to concrete or does it have to be Tapcon screws? Also there’s no concern with moisture getting through said hole in the subfloor panel?
So I finished my basement 4 days ago and now we have drywall up. I did a ton of research and it seems like everyone has a different opinion, I talked to 4 local contractors, then did research online for my climate zone.
I'll let you know in a few years if I have moisture issues.
We did firing strips on concrete (it's a half wall concrete and then studs above) and filled that with rigid foam insulation with foil backing. Faced the foil to Interior of home. Firing strip rests just above concrete.
No subfloor system, did carpet with vapor barrier pad. And LVP with padding.
Fingers crossed, you have me all worried now.
there are plenty of ways to finish a basement that are good. this is just the best design I have found out there that solves a large number of problems no matter how old or new a house is and it does not have a down side in any situation. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY and I for one appreciate your attention to detail and willingness to share your knowledge with all of us =)!
I'm planning on renovating the basement in my 1950 built house. no sump pump, no exterior water protection. Also haven't had water in the basement in the 10 years I've been there.
Planning on Dricore subfloor and foam board on the exterior walls.
To prevent damage from potential water events, I'm using as little organic materials as possible.
I'll be steel studs, vinyl flooring, and rockwool in the stud bays.
I think I'll be a winning combination.
Only thing I have to figure it is synthetic alternatives to osb subfloor and drywall.
Do you have a floor drain? If there's a flooding event, the water should travel under the osb and drywall to the floor drain.
You could also dig a sump pit and pump. Its involved obviously, and hauling dirt and concrete sucks, but it's not particularly difficult. There's a good This Old House episode on digging your own sump pump pit.
Hi
I have a new house with an unfinished basement. The basement does have exterior taped dry walls on a treated lumber (I can't tell how wide it is). Should I put the Dricore as close as possible to the wall and lumber? Should I leave a gap? I
I just became a member and love your video above. I have a few questions: 1) Does the Foam Board need to be 2" R10 or can it be 1.5" R7.50 2) Should I tape the foam board to the Dri-Core or use Great Stuff Insulating Foam 3) you mention using a vapour barrier, but the government site says I should use a Smart Barrier. Should I use one and if so which should I buy? P.S. I will be using Rockwool R14 between the studs.
all you need is r 7.5 for the rigid. and for best results in older houses use the subfloor and then install the rigid on top or leave a gap to slide it under. seal with a thin window foam so seal and not fill the air cavity. Not sure where you live so I can't comment on the barrier. always follow local building code. Cheers!
thermal bridging. nice. like the term
Thanks for the video! Do you know if we need to add insulation to the basement ceiling?
Do you seal where the foam board is resting on the subfloor, to prevent air leakage between the exterior wall and interior living space ? If so, with caulk or spray foam ?
I'm considering redoing my own basement. We get a lot of movement on our property during the seasons. The walls buckle a lot. So what do I anchor the walls to so they have enough space to move with the house? Should they anchor to the ceiling joists and float above the floor? Or should they be anchored through the concrete flooring and a gap left up near the joists?
great video!
but one Question: my basement walls where poured in the 1930's and by no mean are straight. how does this effect the installation process of the foam board? any trip and tricks for uneven basement walls?
Hi Jeff, great video!! Thanks for making it. I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it better to waterproof the wall with DRYLOK extreme and then follow all the instructions in this video? 2. How do we install frame on top of the subfloor as you mentioned in the video? Thanks I’m advance!
Would love to hear your thoughts on spray foam in basements for vapour barrier/insulation but also used on the basement ceiling for soundproofing. Is this worth the money to save time and steps? What do you think? Thanks keep up the good work!
We did spray foam insulation in our basement after a major hurricane flooding. The basement didn’t feel muggy at all. Was always a comfortable cool year round.
spray foam is the best choice for thermal break and gives great sound protection for folks who can afford it. This method is an alternative for half the cost and allows future access to foundation cracks in older homes.
Doesn’t it block the air channel for moisture to evaporate?
spray foam is not to be used on older houses for that reason.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you! I was about to make that mistake in my 1955 house. Would you also recommend to avoid spray foam on the rim joist in between the floor joist? What’s the best insulation for the rim joist in your opinion for an old house ?
I’ve been watching your videos off and on now for the last few months and have found them to be incredibly informative and well explained. I’m going to start work on my basement this year using your videos. I plan on becoming a member of your website to take advantage of the Q&A. Keep up the great work!
Hi Jeff, great video, as always. But what about fire blocking, don't you need to fireblock that gap between the rigid foam and the concrete wall at the top? If you do, than this moist air has nowhere to go.
Suggest making a video on garage to ADU conversion. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video! Where I live there are codes related to fire blocking in the walls. The vertical blocks shouldn't affect the movement of moisture you describe, but I'm a little concerned about the fire blocking at the top of the walls affecting air movement into the subfloor above. Do you have any suggestions?
Would you also cover the concrete strip adjacent to the sill plate with purple foam board?
Excellent content, great delivery of information. Keep up the stellar work!!! 👍👍👍👍
Jeff I have been a fan for many years. This is my first comment ever - I just could not keep silent. The advice on finishing the basement wall you provide is plain dangerous. The warm air will come into the gap at the top cool down as it passes the cavity and move down to exit at the bottom as it becomes heavier. While that is happening moisture from the warm air will condense on the cold concrete wall. There will be a waterfall between the concrete and the insulation in winter. The only way to not have condensation in winter is to isolate warm air from the cold concrete wall. That can be done with continuous spray foaming or a tightly applied foam board with foamed joints and no gap at the top or slab. While you are correct about the minimum building code in cold climates the advice you are giving is to be avoided!
This makes sense to me...I feel like someone needs to do like a torture test video for all these different techniques
if you install the rigid foam all the way up to the joists and them lay r20 batt on the sill plate and 2 layers of rigid on the rim with foam you seal out warm air from having access in the winter. your thoughts on waterfall only happen if you fail to continue the insulation and vapor barriers. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You are now talking about preventing the air from going in between the foam and the concrete wall. That's exactly my point. Why the whole story about intentionally leaving a gap? You are literally talking about air moving through that gap in the video...
I am saying that the air space will come into contact with the framing of the house which will then transfer it to the outside of the main floor and balance out the relative humidity. wood transfers water. Cheers!
Hi, I like the idea of putting 4 globs of sealant on the foam board. 2 questions:
How do you keep the air gap behind the foam board even? Should you use some type of spacer?
We are having a basement waterproofing installed with the wall wrap. Does this adhesive sick to the wall wrap, or will I need to do something different?
you dont need to keep the air gap even, it doesnt really matter. but if you do want to, just stick some sort of spacer on the back, like a plastic or pressure treate woo spacer,
dont stick foam board to wall wrap. you use one or the other. they both do the job of keeping water out.
I have watched many of your videos on basement finish. What if you have in floor heat and icf in the basement? Would you finish that differently? I am working on finishing my basement and your videos are very helpful! I also live in Canada.
Hi Dan, new construction allows for ICF R 20 to 30 depending on your block. Radiant heating in floor means you also have a vapor barrier under the slab and probably insulation there as well. in your case you should simply install a vinyl plank with cork directly on the floor.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!
How would you fasten the framing on the bottom in this case? To the OSB? Will that be strong enough?
I have a hard time deciding how to insulate my basement walls in my 74 house (no insulation or vapour barrier on outside) since there's a lot of different views on the vapor barrier in a basement. Some say it's a big no no and some day you need one... I love in northern climates (often -20/-15°c in the winter) and my basement is i would say 50/50 under and above ground
great system to follow. Do you think DUROSPAN GPS R10 can be used instead of the formboard in your video. While much cheaper per sq ft, will it be as effective?
I really appreciate the insight and information. I have a unique situation for a breezeway that was converted to a mudroom. Front and back walls are exterior. Left wall goes to unconditional garage with a step down to the concrete floor. Right wall interfaces with the kitchen wall with a step up thru a doorway. I need to rebuild front and back walls due to some rot. I want to put down a subfloor for thermal break and I think moisture control as the last wall sill plate rotted out. However my concern is height so that new exterior doors can still open with the new subfloor. That and step heights in and out of the room are still safe. I imagine subfloor will reside inside the exterior framing and my walls will not be built on top of the New subfloor. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
I'm assuming with this system that the moisture escapes eventually through the rim joists. So, how does this system work if the rim joists have been insulated and sealed? Where would the moisture go?