The winning LVP flooring in this video is no longer available from the supplier. Here is a link to a similar LVP product👇🏼 simply-surfaces.comI recently installed and loved Watch this tutorial to learn how I installed it 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/waCiOUOaR_A/w-d-xo.html
Just finishing up my third room with Home Depot Lifeproof 7mm. Installed the flooring directly onto the concrete stab in all three rooms. I'm in CA so I am not sure what works in different parts of the county. As long as the floor is flat there is no need for padding underneath the flooring. In fact I prefer it because with padding it makes the floor sound clickie. Straight on to the concrete slab is quiet and there is still some cushion in the flooring. It also already has the vapor barrier built into it. 1st room was 5 years ago, lots of traffic, no issues whatsoever, still looks great. 2nd room was 2 years ago, again no issues whatsoever either. Right now at HD is $65 for 20 square feet, $3.25 per square foot.
We put down engineered hardwood in a living room/dining room area some years ago. With 3 kids and 2 dogs, it was scratched and dented in under 6 months, and it was time to hit the redo button. We went with Mannington vinyl plank flooring (and, no, I don't work for the company). It looks (almost) like real wood with the grain and all. Fast forward 4 years, and it looks like we put it down yesterday. (And, yes, those darned 3 kids, all their friends, and the dogs are still in the house.) Nothing lasts forever, but I'm favorably impressed. Tip #1 for those who decide to use wood grained vinyl plank: Each box will have a differing variety of faux wood grains. However, the patterns do repeat. Keep an eye on mixing them up as you lay them down so you don't end up with the same patterns next to each other. Tip #2: If you're covering a relatively large area (and are buying a correspondingly large number of cases of plank), it is possible that the die lots will vary from case to case. Open up several boxes and mix up the planks from them as you go. Otherwise, you could end up with a bunch of slightly lighter ones in one area of the room and a grouping of slightly darker ones in another section.
The flooring in this video is still out of stock. I am actively researching and testing out new flooring options and will be filming an updated video soon. Edited: I've added a link to a comparable product from Home Depot in the video description. In the meantime, I will do a TH-cam LIVE to answer your flooring questions, throw them in here. Cheers!
@Jeff, can you please repost the original company that sold the flooring? I bought a ton last year and I need to find my receipt for tax purposes. Thanks!
I've slowly gathered all the necessary knowledge from all these videos to make my house look amazing and last. This may be just the fine details but the only thing I need now is a house.
Good review. LVP Floor notes: Big box stores generally = lower quality & lower spec products. Research before you buy. Visit flooring stores. You will see a difference in range & specifications. Decorner flooring you noted looks acceptable but specs on website less complete Vs. others. Karndean flooring is my first choice for LVP. Have purchased & installed before & will again. Part of any design choice should start with what do you want to see, and how do you want to see it. The Karndean Korlok plank uses photograph quality floor images, micro wood grain surface texture, .55mm top wear layer, 6.5mm thick with padded base, no underlay needed. Basement concrete floors are of course a different beast, subfloor separation away from concrete, often essential. (20 mils>mm = 0.508 mm)
I'm really glad you appeared on my phone one day. You are so easy to understand and your voice & tone are so pleasant to listen to. You answer all my questions before I even ask, Very thorough. Thank you for all the time and energy you put into these videos for all of us. I really appreciate it.
Im looking for a flooring for my kitchen..i have a cat that has plenty of pee problems also.....perfers the floor than litterbox, very frustating...Thank you for your post...
I'm surprised you didn't mention the difference between WPC and SPC. As I've researched it, WPC (wood pulp core) is a mixture of sawdust and plastic to form the thick central core. It's good stuff and works well, but it will dent if you bang it. SPC (stone pulp core) is basically constructed the same, but has sand mixed with the plastic. Sand is cheaper than sawdust, so the product is usually a bit less expensive. It also will not dent. I've pounded on it with a hammer and can't leave a mark on it. I've put down several floors over the years as the products have evolved. SPC plank is by far the best way to go.
My wife and I have been shopping for LVP and haven't even seen WPC or SPC listed.. I need to go back and check on that with the products we are targeting. Thanks for that information.
Great demo brother..everything you said is so true..ive laid flooring for years and learned so much with newer labels newer products but the protection layer and costs should always come hand in hand whenever installing something were all walking on..you get what you pay for and dont get fooled ..alot of trickery in pricing always ask someone who knows amd go from there..great job again
I work at a local flooring store here in Lancaster PA USA. We sell and install all types of flooring. The install is just as important as the product. Make sure your seller has someone you can call for advice on the DIY projects. And big box stores aren’t always the least expensive. Check out the local family owned flooring stores. Sometimes you can get an awesome deal and great information.
THIS! We are working on our basement and we've tried to find some locally owned wholesale places for our materials. Especially this year, we've taken a bit more time to support local AND it's saved us some money in the process. We have a smaller flooring manufacturer local to us and we are using the criteria from Jeff to verify the quality of product and if it passes we will be buying it. Supporting local doesn't always have to be expensive.
I'd love to support local stores, however here in California I went to all these local stores named floor depot, wholesale floor, etc, for the same quality product they are still more expensive than big box store (after coupon and gift card discount of course). Sad..
I'm not sure if it was actually mentioned, but WPC and SPC stand for wood-plastic composite and stone-plastic composite, respectively. WPC is supposed to have a slightly more cushioned feel when walking on it, which also makes footsteps quieter. SPC is generally thinner and often more expensive than WPC, and it is marketed as having better impact resistance.
Listen to the man! I bought the cheap stuff and installed it in my basement in the summer, the locking did not hold and the floor pulled itself apart the following cold winter.
I have been in the professional flooring business since 1985. The best residential flooring hands down is an Armstrong 'Inlaid' sheet vinyl floor. It is expensive and needs to be installed by a professional. Only available at certain dealers but will outlast any LVP or laminate floor hands down. Will not tear, color goes all the way through.
Armstrong makes good stuff, they have been around forever it seems. In your pro opinion, if you wanted to do a DIY install vs. having a professional, what brand of lux vinyl flooring would you recommend after the Armstrong? Also if you have any opinion on Laminate or Engineered Hardwood. Not sure where you are from but here in NJ I went to a place called Lumber Liquidators almost a decade ago and bought 12mm Laminate flooring from a brand called Manatee Hills or something in a beautiful mahogany finish. It has held up (so far) extremely well in my townhome even with a slight uneven concrete slab (despite our feeble DIY attempts to self-level the low spots LOL). Thank you for your valued insight!
I was starting my career as a florring contractor back in the day. You are an amazing explainer. We used the cheap stuff in apts. The good stuff went into houses. We included padding in the price. We wouldnt install unless it was done correctly. And I am not a big fan of the hd or lowes vinyl. I preferred pergo or armstrong.
You can get Pergo at Lowes now. $4.29 a square foot for their higher end waterproof, mold resistant 20+ mil wear layer and built in padding. I haven’t tried their cheaper stuff but there are tons of options just that brand alone. Quick story, I went to a local high end flooring store on a previous remodel last year and spent a little more per square foot ($4.79) for “luxury” vinyl but really cant see any extra quality or Value, expect for ease of installation. The tabs were extremely tough so if you aren’t used to installing it, it’s very forgiving as they resists breaking off, even in tight places or from a pull bar. The brand was Mannington I believe, it shows every little scratch (was a darker color to be fair) and was identical in every other way that matters (thickness, padding, wear layers durability etc.) The Pergo seems like a better deal overall because the buyer doesn’t care how easy it was to put down and it’s your own fault if you damage a ton of material putting it down lol. I don’t care for how the Pergo connects as much during install personally as it doesn’t lay down as nicely as it connects. With other stuff, you could tell for sure if the boards were 100% connected properly (I may have ocd with things like that, but I’m not the only one by far) but for the money I’m just using the Pergo going forward. Plus I think more people have heard of the Pergo brand name if you’re flipping a house or plan to sell in the near future. Anyway, fun reading all the points of view and opinions. Cheers! 🍻🍻🍻
Shopping for vinyl has been overwhelming and of course the staff at HD just trying to push you on the most expensive so this video has been super helpful in understanding what we need to look for so we can make a great choice. Thank you!
At HD the staff wants to help you I'm certain; however, they don't get paid a lot. I'm certain they are selfless and wish to benefit the customer, but some depts. seem to incentivize them - some of them might try to sell you more costly materials. Just do your due diligence and spend some time checking out materials. You may get a lot that's limited in size, but it's marked down to close it our OR there may be a promotion or sale that gets you into better choices.
Use Lifeproof. I’ve installed @ 100k feet, in less than ideal conditions, without a single issue. Never had an unhappy customer. A contractor that knows the difference between Lifeproof and the cheaper options will charge you a justified surface prep, just to hopefully get your surface within tolerances that the cheaper alternatives require for a successful installation. Then be ready for “installer error/ end user neglect” accusations from the manufacturer when the cheap option fails. Keyword: LVP failures. Most times the manufacturer will provide more junk floor to replace the previous failure, but their instructions are getting exceedingly difficult and EXPENSIVE to follow, as to limit their liability for making a finicky, faulty product
Same boat here! Closing on the 18th. So many plans but doing these vinyl plank floors is definitely on the top of the list. Along with painting and replacing baseboards and crown molding. Home Renovisions has excellent videos on all of it and makes it feel like I can definitely tackle it all myself!
Hi Jeff, Thanks for bringing the "wear layer" to our attention. I wanted to supplement this video by mentioning that manufacturers disclose this by using the measurement "mils" - which is a measure of vinyl thickness. A mil is 0.0254 mm which is 1/1000 of an inch. I have seen product for sale on the thin side of 3 mil and the thickest I found was 30 mil. Everyone should definitely be looking for these numbers to see how thick their wear layer is. A cheap plastic trash bag is 1.7 mil thick ... so be careful ...
IT's mostly meaningless unless you have big dogs or small kids. Sell a million feet of this stuff a year. 12-20 mils is good enough. 20 is commercial grade. 8-6 and below is trash.
My son in law & dtr bought a home, the floor was already there, the wear layer scratches with the light bit of friction, they will be replacing it, the home is only 1 year old & floor looks awful
@@darleneprice1711 And this is what happens when builders cut corners by having cheaper flooring installed. Same thing thing happens with "builder grade" carpeting. You usually gotta upgrade sooner rather than later.
Hey Jeff. The Home Depot LifeProof LVF with the attached underpad layer specifically states that no additional underlayment is to be added to the installation. They specifically state that an additional underlayment will void their warranty. Why is that??? Some have stated that an additional underpad is too flexible and prevents the locking mechanisms from fully locking. Particularly the locking groves on the end of the boards will fail to securely lock even if they are tapped down with a rubber mallet. They tend to bounce when hit and fail to lock fully. Your thoughts???
Long time flooring salesman here - you explained it yourself. If you add additional underlayment, there is too much cushion and “give” when you step, that the locking mechanisms eventually will break. There is no need for an additional pad, as long as the product comes with one. That is the pad they use, they trust, and they warranty. Also - stay away from LifeProof. With a 6-mil wearlayer, it’ll scratch like hell.
@@Millionair95 Thanks Matthew for confirming my suspicions. Following the manufacturer's instructions is usually the best road, since they designed and produced it. Looks like Jeff is wrong on this one. LOL
@@chrisgraham2904 This is a commercial for a product HE is selling. This is not an actual objective review. I think you may have missed that. He is HIGHLIGHTING the product he teamed up with the company to sell from HIS store, so of course he is going to try to make HIS product better so he can make the profit.
@@Chopski64 Yep, glad you see through it, as well. Notice how he FAILS TO MENTION that it voids the warranty to USE an underpad on the product that already have it? He just want to sell what he has.
After just watched only one of your drywall videos, you became my new lover! My husband is renovating our basement and I told him I will do our drywall just like Jeff!
My contractor went shopping with me when we were picking out our laminate floor and he had us go with the pergo higher end floor with a lifetime warranty. That was five year's ago and our floor still looks brand new. I'm glad he took the time to go with me because my husband wanted to buy the cheapest floor out there.
I've learned that sometimes it's best to put the money out, in the first place! Instead of putting in the cheap stuff, and then spending the money for the good stuff, it can save you money 💵.
I bought the cheapest tile, because it was on sale, but 20 years later it's got cracks, chips and the grout looks terrible - so maybe I'll lay something over it.
NEVER USE UNDERLAYMENT with LVP flooring. The additional cushioning will cause the joint to buckle. I have installed over 10k square feet of LifeProof and never use an underlayment. In six years of installing I have never had one call back because of the sound of dirt 😂. Also be sure to acclimate the materials for at least two days before installing.
? For you. I'm installing in basement w/ linoleum floor. Mostly level with the exception of one spot that has a trough. Would self leveling compound work or should I not even bother?
@@WildKnight23 thank you! And do you recommend underlayment for waterproofed basement? (Concrete subfloor partially covered by linoleum) If so any specific kind?
@@bmack2204 Your welcome B Mack. I don’t recommend underlayment even if it is sub-level. LVP is water proof that contains no MDF so it’s not susceptible to water damage. However, if I was going to use one in this instance, I would use an organic water-proofing agent such as Red Guard. Be sure to use a quality LVP such as LifeProof.
You are so appreciated --your knowledge,experience, delivery style/presentation, personality, skills, sincerity AND sense. of humor! Because of you I'm less of a sap at the home stores. Thank you, sincerely!
100% hands down the most easy to understand information about vinyl flooring I've found. I couldn't appreciate the attention to detail more! Keep going, I've got a whole house to do!
Wild. I went with a 4mm HD “cheap” floor five years ago in a three season sunroom that gets tons of traffic and sees wild variations in temperature and humidity. It’s been flawless. No separation of the locking joints and it still looks brand new.
I ordered all of my flooring through Calibamboo after a lot of research. 20mil wear layer, 50 year residential warranty, free delivery to my door by freight, heavy product. I payed a little over $3.00 per sq/ft with transition strips, under layment, stair treads, and 1500 sq/ft of flooring.
We just ordered samples from Cali Bamboo, quality seams excellent! We really wanted 20mil wear layer and found out the box store brands only go up to I believe 9mil, so we started searching elsewhere and came across Cali Bamboo! Their customer service is outstanding also!
Hi Jeff, you have blessed me so much. I practically just come to your channel to search for info; the how , the why and the why not before taking up any project and have been so successful at them. Thank you so much for all that you put into this to make life easy for a lot of us out there.
That was an interesting and informative comparison. I’m certain most people shop by color/design on the same day. The lack of planning helps those big box stores. I have seen people use this flooring on walls. Durable, wipeable, not a bad deal.
For those looking for the top wear layer its called the 'MIL' layer. With the MIL layer there's a number associated with it (MIL 6 -20). The higher the number of the MIL Layer the better or 'thicker' the layer. This is the most important layer for wear. Most packages will list the MIL layer but some do not and in those cases do your research before purchase. You need to google that exact make/model for the MIL layer #. If you go to a big box store and it's not on the package chances are its a low MIL # 6-8. IMO any MIL that's lower than an 8 can expect to wear quicker. Anything that's above a 12 MIL can expect to last longer. Vinyl flooring MIL numbers can go as high as 20 MIL and may go higher. Also IMO with pets you're going to want a higher MIL #.
The room I want to add flooring to has tile. Do I need to remove the tile? Size of room is 19.1 X 11.9 Don't have much money right now Should I just put down a piece of carpeting for the time being, and save up for $ 3.50 vinyl and sub flooring or hardwood flooring?
@@pattyespinoza8902 Patty, I tore up the carpet. Put down the top of the line SHAW FLOORING - that was Dec 2019Before six months was up the edges that overlap were tearing up I’m in a wheelchair and I can remember rolling backwards a few inches --“CRACK” Another piece of overlap to the ‘fancy’ flooring broken off NEVER GET THIS STUFF or ANYTHING LIKE IT I paid $2,600 for 25x25’ square great room - that was JUST THE FLOORING!!!!! (Add cost of baseboards, paint, Labor, etc ...) Please if you have tile, Sri I with it. Look on line for large rugs if you like - tile is the best. (Unless it’s broken and ...) Then RETILE. NEVER EVER BUY THIS VYNAL- And it needs doing alllllll over again!!!! It’s the biggest waste of money ❗️😢
It is called the "wear layer." "Mil" is a measurement of thickness - .001 inch. So, for example, "20 mils" means 20 thousandths of an inch (or 2 hundredths of an inch), 6 mils is 6 thousandths of an inch.
Wear layers go as hi as 28-30 now. Wear llayer isn't everything either. Some manufacturers have a coating on top the wear layer that make it more resistant to scratches like the Novalis brand 👍.
For you Michiganders, there's a Floor & Decor store in Macomb County, in Shelby Township on Hall Rd. Not only floor products, but also kitchen and bathroom tiles. Haven't been there yet, but gotta go, and Jeff is giving it a heads up for at least their underlayment rather than using Home Depot underlayment crap. Happy shopping.
These types of videos are gold. I'm gonna redo my kitchen and finish my basement soon and this knowledge takes all of the confusion and decision fatigue out of a rather large purchase. Looking forward to supporting your channel soon!
Amazing video, Love the help! Just sucks that the prices mentioned in the video do not reflect on your website. I called and Flooring is at $4.69sqft and underlayment is $0.79sqft!
Couple correction. All these manufacturers have a substrate moisture restrictions. So these product can not be installed under warranty if the relative moisture content is to high regardless if the flooring itself is "water proof". The reason for this is trapping moisture can lead to standing water that can find its way into baseboards walls and studs witch can make for structural damage. There is also concern that in the presence of moisture you can have different types of mold growth including black mold. #2 Any Lvt ( luxury vynal tile) that is sold with pad attached can not be installed over additional pad. Doing so will cause structural support issues. Meaning that the material will flex to much causing damage to the tongue and groove systems over time.
I am a flooring department manager at one of the big box stores. I liked this video and a lot of what you said is exactly what I tell customers. Especially the wear layer part. That said, it's hard to find a plank without an attached pad now. Also, I would never sell a plank that was under 5mm. I agree with your comments on price point as well. One thing I don't agree with is needing an underlayment pad. All the manufacturers specs and warranties state that additional underlay isn't required if it is attached. One thing I hate though is the fact that most brands require their brand of underlay or your warranty is void. So yeah maybe a cheaper product is fine but what if you have that one in a million situation where you need the warranty protection. But all in all, loved the video but I think some of our differences are differences between the salesman and the installer.
Yep. Installing an underpad when the plank has an attached pad can also void the warranty as it has the potential to allow too much flexion putting strain on the joints and premature failure. I was surprised to hear him recommend this.
Or go to a local flooring store that has been in business for 25 years. The owner has 45 years in flooring and hires installers who are qualified, insured along with the helpers.
funny enough under another video (in comments) you said that LVP with 1mm pad does not require additional/separate padding. Manufacturer is also against it.
I appreciate your recommendation of the store "Floor and Decor" for purchasing flooring products. I'm somewhat fortunate in that there's a store about a one-hour drive away. For what it's worth, I found a product on their website with the following specifications: Thickness: 6.5mm Length: 48.03 in. Width: 7.17 in. Wear Layer: 22MIL STC Rating: 62 IIC (Impact Noise Isolation) Number: 64 Cork Backing Manufacturer: Nucore Waterproof Flooring Price per square foot: $2.99 (as of Sep 4, 2023) I think the price is competitive and a good value. What do you think??
It’s a good value. Do you mind sharing which one it is? I’m looking at Floors to you. Get samples of whatever you’re thinking of buying. Nothing looks like a photo. No Coretec stone. Coretec can be good. Some are wpc, some are spc. You won’t know without a sample. Colorwall is WPC. Locking mechanisms. Can you easily break off the corners? WPC I can. I don’t think WPC in an 8 thick is going to match a spc in a 6 or 6.5. I drop things on samples. Hit with hammer, stab with hair pins. Drop food on it. I’m also testing with spilling alcohol and acetone on them.
Thank you! I'm shopping (and educating myself) right now for my first ever vinyl plank floor. I plan to do entire house (minus two bathrooms that were recently tiled) so I only have ONE chance to get this right! I need to figure out what to buy and how much chicken and rice I need to eat to make it happen! LOL! Love your style! Fun video, but also very helpful!
I’m in the process of buying my first home and have been doing tons of research before I tackle any DIY projects. I’m very happy to have found your channel. Your knowledge and way of explaining the fine details is perfect! I can’t wait to have you help me on all my projects 😉
You have too ! I built this house 6 years ago, the laminate was a gorgeous cherry hue, the joints any where near any moisture are swelling..no more " moisture resistant", get water proof
Jeff I love your opinions ," this stuff wears better than hardwood, yeah I said it " I alsways appreciate your knowledge and presentations, always so thorough. You tell it straight. And you do the Lowes / Homepot comparison for us homeowners. " Good and garbage"..LOL The recommendations in this video are priceless, Thank you !!!!
Thank you so much!!!! In escrow for my third home, but the only one we will have to get the floors completed done before moving in. This video took me from hopelessly vulnerable to more knowledgeable and confident. I will definitely be watching more of your videos to educate myself. Also thank you for being honest about the products.
I know you aren't an expert on everything but you relate pretty well to the average person. In conjunction with others I use your channel to help me with almost everything on my house whenever I question my abilities on any particular task. Then I call my father who is a Civil Engineer and has renovated many of his own homes throughout the years. The engineer's mind is a wondrous thing. You don't always have to do things by the book. And often times, as long as you actually know what you are doing, there's better and more affordable but still sound ways to do things. I don't know your background professionally outside of this channel, but your suggestions usually jive with my father and that's a compliment considering he's an accomplished building engineer.
Gotta be careful with the underpad with the Lifeproof (Home Depot) flooring though! The warranty specifically says no underpad, or only allows you to use the QuicPrep underlayment. Any other pad will void the lifetime warranty on it.
I'm in the HDepot all the time, Picked up a Lifeproof sample. Put it in a container of water in my house... for months! Had to add water because some would evaporate. It never deteriorated. Why would I do that? I see tons of rental properties with cheap flooring that have major damage from water issues, because the tenants don't care something is leaking, and you may not find out till it's too late. So that may be a consideration for some also. I think I'll leave a piece outside next:)
Great info, Jeff. I've done vinyl plank flooring a number of times in my house and my kids'. Used Home Depot's Traffic Master for our recent kitchen reno. K-R-A-P. After 6-8 months I have duct tape holding it all together right now. So bad that after a week even the cat crossing the floor would cause a "snap" that I late deduced to be the locking tongue breaking. Will go back to Lifeproof (it's upstairs in the en-suite with no problems) to replace this junk. Thanks for the advice!
We have Floor and Decor in Salt Lake I love the store too! I bought tile there 4 years ago and just went back and they had the same product. I send all my friends there when they need something.
Just a heads up for underlayment if you choose to go with the lifeproof product from homedepot; LifeProof™ includes a pre-attached sound mitigating pad. Do not use any additional sound suppression underlayment or padding, as doing so will void the LifeProof™ Limited Warranty
Don’t use a padding or foam underlayment. Make sure the underlayment you choose for lifeproof is stiff. You can try it with and without. I MUCH preferred with a underlayment.
That pre-attached 1mm pad is a joke. Not only it does next to nothing for sound proofing, but it also does next to nothing to even out any floor imperfections, which gonna lead to a disastrous installed floor. And if it can't take anything thicker underneath, then throw that junk in the garbage, where it belongs.
I would like to put LVP in the kitchen of my very old house with uneven flooring. Your demonstration was helpful and I was wondering if there is an uncomplicated/not too expensive way to help level the flooring for the planks. Thank you so much for your help.
Because using an additional underpayment will cause it to separate from the cushion that it provides. It will void the warranty on any click locking vinyl product. The one mentioned in this video does not say that it is warrantied for use under vinyl, so contact the supplier to find out if it is or not.
3 years ago I needed a floor for a 3 season tiny house here in Ontario. I researched the big box store floor options where I discovered nobody warrants vinyl flooring in freezing temperatures. So I grabbed all my samples took them home wrote down the dimensions and then stuck them in my freezer at 18C for 48 hours. I then remeasured and found lifeproof shrunk the least. So I went with lifeproof and have not regretted it. Non of the seams have popped and when I went in the winter it hadn’t shrunk so much that the edges were exposed from under the baseboards. It was very easy to install despite some of the reviews. I did install with out an underlay (unless you count the green indoor outdoor carpet under it) however if I was to do it in my basement I would put an underlay. Maybe now I will check out your recommended product. P.s. I would like to see comparisons for shower pan options for diy!
As someone who has the original Life proof, low end vinyl planking flooring for 17 years now, it wears amazing. Unless you're dragging heavy machinery over it, you will never go through your wear layer.
Thank you. Also, from what I’ve read, the manufacturer voids warranty if under pad is used on planks that come with underpads. I think I’ll follow manufacturer’s recommendation on use of underpad (following the science)
I have a floor and decor near me and that’s where I have been looking!! They have an underpad for $0.50 a sqft that is actually demonstrated at the store and works perfect
My husband just finished a remodel, when installing the floors they had insisted no underlayment needed. So to be safe he made them sign a waver naming them responsible for the install specs. I thought he was over reacting. They"ll both be interested in this video. Go to your local building supply, big box doesn't even know there own products. Great video
Adding additional underlayment to a vinyl plank with an attached pad can cause the planks to fail because it might allow for too much flex at the joints. All manufacturers will void your warranty if additional underlayment is used. If you really desire additional underlayment (Generally for upstairs to help minimize acoustics below) then consult the manufacturer to see if they have one specified. If acoustics are the reason you are looking for additional underlayment, buy a thicker WPC product. Perhaps some flooring retailers will back your purchase if you use their underlayment.. I don't know. For the DIYer, concerned consumer, or tight budget shopper, the best thing you can do to protect your investment is to ensure that the subfloor meets the flatness requirements of the product. If the subfloor meets the specifications of flatness your chances of failure are much lower. That said, this is a great educational video and I agree with the majority of what is said! I'm glad this video is available and really appreciate HRV for posting. I sell flooring for a living and often see people buying the lowest cost products and not paying attention to quality. Properly installed, these floors are manufactured to last you 30+ years.
@@iocaine505 quick question, I am looking to put LVP over top of some handscraped engineered hardwood. Would that flooring me flat enough to still be a quiet installation or would I have to use an additional underlayment or remove the wood flooring? Trying to be cost friendly but also not do a crap install.
The lifeproof vinyl planks they stock in the Home Depot stores have a thin 6mil wear layer. But you can special order lifeproof with a 22mil wear layer in most of the same styles for $.50-.60 more a square foot.
Anyone buying a more grey color please buy the smoother ones, maybe called bamboo. I bought the kind with grooves and yes it maybe helpful in imitating wood but please be advised the grain is super hard to get clean. Dirt just seems to be attracted to this floor..
I've been installing the stuff for 20+ years. I never recommend click-vinyl plank, always the glue down or the new loose-lay stuff. You want to be able to replace one if it gets scratched, and it's easy with the regular stuff...not so much with click. Also I've seen the click stuff fail often if it's in the sun.
I agree. Except- the substrate needs to generally be perfect concrete, or subfloor. More expensive, and involved- but repairable into the future.(you can replace and interlocking plank. But. * )
Floor & Decor is a great store. I work for Shaw, so I went with their vinyl flooring in my new house (I get it at cost), but for everything else, I went to F&D. Couldn't recommend it more highly.
My home and entire neighborhood recently had a sewer back up because of city negligence and I thought it best to pull up the non padded carpeting in my basement. The original tile floor is still intact. Question, can I put the vinyl plank flooring right on top of the old tile or should I put down some sort of under lay under the planks?
My aunt is getting vinyl floors and this would be great for her to watch. TY! I am going with Tile floors for my whole house my Mom who’s 90 years old will be living with us and uses a walker and have seen what a walker does to wooden floors and I have 5 dogs so Tiles for me. Great Video 😎
@@ColinBPlays to add make sure you use a high quality caulk that has some flexibility to allow proper contractions while keeping sealed without cracking
I’ve nearly bought that hard angle measure tool so many times!!!! I learned a lot and I’m so glad I found your channel. We got so ripped off when we built our house 22 years ago and I’m more than ready to replace it! This is really well-explained. 😊
I liked the video. I did my floor wrong but I'm not fixing it. It was a response to bed bugs, no underlayment. 600 sq ft, 7 doorways and no thresholds. It's one circular unit and I'm real proud of it!
Hey man, you’re the best. So informative, super helpful, and really fun to watch. I’m repairing and updating a property of my parents and have come to your videos time and time again. You’re doing great things and really helping people. Thank you so much!
This is a good video, My nephew bought some flooring that is not very good, he is new to this and he didn’t quite understand what I was saying about the flooring, I sent him this link so hopefully he understands everything the way you explained it. Thank you.
I work in the flooring industry (on the engineering side, not the installation side) and there is a lot of very poor information in this video. The part about the wear layer was particularly bad. You can't see the wear layer by looking at the edge of the plank because it's too thin, and it is also transparent. The wear layer is measured in thousanths of an inch, or 'mil', and it consists of a very hard substance, usually aluminum oxide, and a binding agent, usually some sort of UV cured polyurethane. You can't just look at a plank and tell how thick the wear layer is. The layers that you see in the video are not the wear layer, they are just a result of the heterogeneous construction of the plank. To find out how thick the wear layer is, you have to read the product specs. It commonly ranges from 8mil up to around 25mil, depending on the particular product and the price you're willing to pay. Often, the same product will be available in several different wear layer thicknesses, and they will all look identical when viewed from the edge. For domestic use, 12mil is usually more than adequate, and even 8mil will last a long time in low traffic areas. The most common reason for wear layer breakdown in a domestic setting is not foot traffic, but careless movement of heavy furniture.
I appreciate your input and disclosure of credentials; however, as someone who has worked with "old work" regularly, what is visible to laborer is notable and a definite reference point. I have no problem with him pointing this out. Yes, specs will be taken into consideration as well when purchasing. TYVM
@@nancyglynn2719 What I was pointing out was the fact that the layer of the plank he was pointing to was not the wear layer. The wear layer is essentially invisible to the naked eye. He may know how to install flooring, but he doesn't know what he is talking about when it comes to the construction of the plank itself.
@@thepenultimateninja5797 I appreciate this point. The wear layer is sometimes visible if you look very closely, but it's just about the thickness of paper - not very apparent.
Thanks for the information. They never talk about hardness, just thickness. Is there a lot of variation in the chemistry of the wear layer that affects this aspect? I figure the concentration of aluminum oxide can affect this
I had picked up a couple of different samples of the laminate planks at my local Menards before I saw this video. After watching the video I took another look at the samples one was 5mm and the other was 4mm. Interestingly I noticed that the 4mm samples were bowed upward between the locking joints so that each piece would flex downward in the center putting stress on the locking joints. The two 5mm samples lay flat with no deflection in the center. Really appreciated you pointing that out.
You are an amazing teacher. Very natural, very knowledgeable. Your videos are excellent. Thanks for your teachings. Can you do a video about building a foundation for a house? Have you ever done anything on container homes or installing windows in a metal wall?
Great info as always. I'm glad you mentioned Floor and Decor. Thats my goto spot here in Houston. I could stay in there all day with all the products they have.
I purchased what I think was the same one you discarded with the underlayment attached from Lowes...(Smartcore) That product does not require an underlayment per the manufacturer, just a 6mil vapor barrier, which cost about $40 for the entire house... I've had it in for two years now with no issues.... I did have to learn about using wood composites with an earlier project...never again!! But as of now the Lowes product with the attached underlayment works great.... the underlayment gives a little give over the concrete slab... just like you described with a separate underlayment, making it comfortable to walk on..with no crunch 🙂.(incidentally they have two grades of that product, both got GREAT reviews everywhere else)... and the vapor barrier also has no issues....
Can you install over an existing floor? I would install it everywhere on the main floor over ceramic (early 2000's look) and hardwood. I would use the underpad of course
Great information. I had received a quote for my basement flooring and it was just too ridiculous. Decided to do it myself. So happy I saw your video. I surely saved it to my favs so that I can review once it comes time to start my project. Thank you so much. Love the information you post. Love unbiased opinions relating to products.
Jeff, Many thanks again! We are prepping to order our flooring and I new you'd have a video telling me everything I needed to know. You have not steered me wrong throughout our entire basement project! Too bad I couldn't get the floor from you. But we do have Floor and Decor's in my area... your suggestions on the vapor barrier greatly appreciate. The "normal" suggested products just didn't seem like they were a quality product... so thanks for the practical solution. I've even had two different retailers tell me I did not need a vapor barrier on my bare concrete basement floor because the flooring came with it. So again... thanks for the pro tips to help us be informed as we shop!
Another thing to consider when getting to the 3.50/sq.ft price point other than moving to maybe hardwoods, is that vinyl planks are easier to transport, lighter, less package volume, and I don't think they have to acclimatize inside your as long before install.
IDK what vinyl floor you have seen but the Stainmater pet safe vinyl flooring I just installed was about 30 lbs per box and one box only has 8 planks in it! It is stone core waterproof vinyl and it is not light at all.
Hi Jeff, been watching a lot of your videos, you can always make things sound so much easier to understand. I'm building a custom home, so need 2500sqft flooring, which I'm going to talk to my builder to order directly from your website. Thank you for all you do, learned so much as well, appreciate it
Thanks for such an honest video. I've been studying flooring for 6 weeks and its been very stressful. I need flooring for a modest condo with a concrete subfloor. I'm heading over to your website . You are the first flooring person I trust.
The winning LVP flooring in this video is no longer available from the supplier. Here is a link to a similar LVP product👇🏼
simply-surfaces.comI recently installed and loved
Watch this tutorial to learn how I installed it 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/waCiOUOaR_A/w-d-xo.html
Precisely why big box stores are the smarter long term choice
This other place only sell in the US
You said to stay away from away under 5mm. This product is only 4mm; 5mm if you include the underlayment :/
Just finishing up my third room with Home Depot Lifeproof 7mm. Installed the flooring directly onto the concrete stab in all three rooms. I'm in CA so I am not sure what works in different parts of the county. As long as the floor is flat there is no need for padding underneath the flooring. In fact I prefer it because with padding it makes the floor sound clickie. Straight on to the concrete slab is quiet and there is still some cushion in the flooring. It also already has the vapor barrier built into it. 1st room was 5 years ago, lots of traffic, no issues whatsoever, still looks great. 2nd room was 2 years ago, again no issues whatsoever either. Right now at HD is $65 for 20 square feet, $3.25 per square foot.
We put down engineered hardwood in a living room/dining room area some years ago. With 3 kids and 2 dogs, it was scratched and dented in under 6 months, and it was time to hit the redo button. We went with Mannington vinyl plank flooring (and, no, I don't work for the company). It looks (almost) like real wood with the grain and all. Fast forward 4 years, and it looks like we put it down yesterday. (And, yes, those darned 3 kids, all their friends, and the dogs are still in the house.) Nothing lasts forever, but I'm favorably impressed.
Tip #1 for those who decide to use wood grained vinyl plank: Each box will have a differing variety of faux wood grains. However, the patterns do repeat. Keep an eye on mixing them up as you lay them down so you don't end up with the same patterns next to each other.
Tip #2: If you're covering a relatively large area (and are buying a correspondingly large number of cases of plank), it is possible that the die lots will vary from case to case. Open up several boxes and mix up the planks from them as you go. Otherwise, you could end up with a bunch of slightly lighter ones in one area of the room and a grouping of slightly darker ones in another section.
Do you have a link for them?
HELPFUL Thanks
Which specific one?
@@jayjoseph3563 After almost 5 years, I don't recall.
We just did our office flooring today and noticed there were only 4 different patterns.
The flooring in this video is still out of stock. I am actively researching and testing out new flooring options and will be filming an updated video soon. Edited: I've added a link to a comparable product from Home Depot in the video description.
In the meantime, I will do a TH-cam LIVE to answer your flooring questions, throw them in here. Cheers!
Can't wait for the video to come out!
@Jeff, can you please repost the original company that sold the flooring? I bought a ton last year and I need to find my receipt for tax purposes. Thanks!
I checked your homerenovationdiy to check out the underpad you show but nothing appears.
Going to be doing four bedrooms and a hallway upstairs. Do you recommend I break up the areas or make one fully connected piece?
Can’t wait
I've slowly gathered all the necessary knowledge from all these videos to make my house look amazing and last. This may be just the fine details but the only thing I need now is a house.
Lmao. Same here! I'm telling me husband everything i learned how to do to renovate our house we don't have.
Lol funny comment 😊
Good review. LVP Floor notes: Big box stores generally = lower quality & lower spec products. Research before you buy. Visit flooring stores. You will see a difference in range & specifications. Decorner flooring you noted looks acceptable but specs on website less complete Vs. others.
Karndean flooring is my first choice for LVP. Have purchased & installed before & will again. Part of any design choice should start with what do you want to see, and how do you want to see it. The Karndean Korlok plank uses photograph quality floor images, micro wood grain surface texture, .55mm top wear layer, 6.5mm thick with padded base, no underlay needed. Basement concrete floors are of course a different beast, subfloor separation away from concrete, often essential. (20 mils>mm = 0.508 mm)
Thanks! Great video. Can you include Canadian Home Depot Links for the flooring.
I'm really glad you appeared on my phone one day. You are so easy to understand and your voice & tone are so pleasant to listen to. You answer all my questions before I even ask, Very thorough. Thank you for all the time and energy you put into these videos for all of us. I really appreciate it.
True
I used the Lifeproof stuff since I have dogs with pee problems. I left a sample in a bowl of water for a week with zero damage. Pretty awesome stuff
Im looking for a flooring for my kitchen..i have a cat that has plenty of pee problems also.....perfers the floor than litterbox, very frustating...Thank you for your post...
Implying a bowl of water is in any way a good test...or is in any way comparable to ammonia, oxygen, temperature, bacteria and pressure/friction...
@@juggmkj you are what we call in the business, an asshole
Could the moisture damage under the vinyl floor.
As someone who is an assistant manager of the wood dept. at F&D, it was very refreshing to see such an honest video about the current market
What's the name of the product mentions sold at F&D? I can't find him listing it in the actual video.
@@tomee639 I watched this video a while ago, but I believe he is talking about the NuCore/ NuCore Performance line
Love these videos, jeff keeps me from standing in the home centers aisles for hours confused about what product to use.
I'm surprised you didn't mention the difference between WPC and SPC. As I've researched it, WPC (wood pulp core) is a mixture of sawdust and plastic to form the thick central core. It's good stuff and works well, but it will dent if you bang it. SPC (stone pulp core) is basically constructed the same, but has sand mixed with the plastic. Sand is cheaper than sawdust, so the product is usually a bit less expensive. It also will not dent. I've pounded on it with a hammer and can't leave a mark on it. I've put down several floors over the years as the products have evolved. SPC plank is by far the best way to go.
My wife and I have been shopping for LVP and haven't even seen WPC or SPC listed.. I need to go back and check on that with the products we are targeting. Thanks for that information.
Thank you for the information
Great demo brother..everything you said is so true..ive laid flooring for years and learned so much with newer labels newer products but the protection layer and costs should always come hand in hand whenever installing something were all walking on..you get what you pay for and dont get fooled ..alot of trickery in pricing always ask someone who knows amd go from there..great job again
Well said!
I work at a local flooring store here in Lancaster PA USA. We sell and install all types of flooring. The install is just as important as the product. Make sure your seller has someone you can call for advice on the DIY projects. And big box stores aren’t always the least expensive. Check out the local family owned flooring stores. Sometimes you can get an awesome deal and great information.
THIS! We are working on our basement and we've tried to find some locally owned wholesale places for our materials. Especially this year, we've taken a bit more time to support local AND it's saved us some money in the process. We have a smaller flooring manufacturer local to us and we are using the criteria from Jeff to verify the quality of product and if it passes we will be buying it. Supporting local doesn't always have to be expensive.
@@knotmaggot9588 so glad to hear it! Supporting local businesses is so important and helps the community. And a great deal? Can’t beat that!
I'd love to support local stores, however here in California I went to all these local stores named floor depot, wholesale floor, etc, for the same quality product they are still more expensive than big box store (after coupon and gift card discount of course). Sad..
@Laura Dissinger. I'm in York, PA. What's the name of the flooring store? I am in the market for LVT.
@@blakelav1639 Certified Carpet Been in business over 70 years. I’m not sure what we have in stock but we can certainly order what you’re looking for.
I'm not sure if it was actually mentioned, but WPC and SPC stand for wood-plastic composite and stone-plastic composite, respectively. WPC is supposed to have a slightly more cushioned feel when walking on it, which also makes footsteps quieter. SPC is generally thinner and often more expensive than WPC, and it is marketed as having better impact resistance.
Listen to the man! I bought the cheap stuff and installed it in my basement in the summer, the locking did not hold and the floor pulled itself apart the following cold winter.
I have been in the professional flooring business since 1985. The best residential flooring hands down is an Armstrong 'Inlaid' sheet vinyl floor. It is expensive and needs to be installed by a professional. Only available at certain dealers but will outlast any LVP or laminate floor hands down. Will not tear, color goes all the way through.
Armstrong makes good stuff, they have been around forever it seems. In your pro opinion, if you wanted to do a DIY install vs. having a professional, what brand of lux vinyl flooring would you recommend after the Armstrong? Also if you have any opinion on Laminate or Engineered Hardwood. Not sure where you are from but here in NJ I went to a place called Lumber Liquidators almost a decade ago and bought 12mm Laminate flooring from a brand called Manatee Hills or something in a beautiful mahogany finish. It has held up (so far) extremely well in my townhome even with a slight uneven concrete slab (despite our feeble DIY attempts to self-level the low spots LOL). Thank you for your valued insight!
Thanks!
Wow, this enlightened me so much! I’m soooooo glad I came across this before choosing my floors. Thank you!!!
I live 5 min from Floor and decor. Glad to hear it meets your expectations.
I was starting my career as a florring contractor back in the day. You are an amazing explainer. We used the cheap stuff in apts. The good stuff went into houses. We included padding in the price. We wouldnt install unless it was done correctly. And I am not a big fan of the hd or lowes vinyl. I preferred pergo or armstrong.
You can get Pergo at Lowes now. $4.29 a square foot for their higher end waterproof, mold resistant
20+ mil wear layer and built in padding. I haven’t tried their cheaper stuff but there are tons of options just that brand alone.
Quick story, I went to a local high end flooring store on a previous remodel last year and spent a little more per square foot ($4.79) for “luxury” vinyl but really cant see any extra quality or Value, expect for ease of installation. The tabs were extremely tough so if you aren’t used to installing it, it’s very forgiving as they resists breaking off, even in tight places or from a pull bar. The brand was Mannington I believe, it shows every little scratch (was a darker color to be fair) and was identical in every other way that matters (thickness, padding, wear layers durability etc.) The Pergo seems like a better deal overall because the buyer doesn’t care how easy it was to put down and it’s your own fault if you damage a ton of material putting it down lol. I don’t care for how the Pergo connects as much during install personally as it doesn’t lay down as nicely as it connects. With other stuff, you could tell for sure if the boards were 100% connected properly (I may have ocd with things like that, but I’m not the only one by far) but for the money I’m just using the Pergo going forward. Plus I think more people have heard of the Pergo brand name if you’re flipping a house or plan to sell in the near future. Anyway, fun reading all the points of view and opinions. Cheers! 🍻🍻🍻
I used COREtec plus HD... Looks amazing and so much like real wood. My contractor did do and underlayment.
Shopping for vinyl has been overwhelming and of course the staff at HD just trying to push you on the most expensive so this video has been super helpful in understanding what we need to look for so we can make a great choice. Thank you!
At Home Depot, the more expensive vinyl floors are usually the best they have, not necessarily the best out there
At HD the staff wants to help you I'm certain; however, they don't get paid a lot. I'm certain they are selfless and wish to benefit the customer, but some depts. seem to incentivize them - some of them might try to sell you more costly materials. Just do your due diligence and spend some time checking out materials. You may get a lot that's limited in size, but it's marked down to close it our OR there may be a promotion or sale that gets you into better choices.
Use Lifeproof. I’ve installed @ 100k feet, in less than ideal conditions, without a single issue. Never had an unhappy customer. A contractor that knows the difference between Lifeproof and the cheaper options will charge you a justified surface prep, just to hopefully get your surface within tolerances that the cheaper alternatives require for a successful installation. Then be ready for “installer error/ end user neglect” accusations from the manufacturer when the cheap option fails. Keyword: LVP failures. Most times the manufacturer will provide more junk floor to replace the previous failure, but their instructions are getting exceedingly difficult and EXPENSIVE to follow, as to limit their liability for making a finicky, faulty product
Many many thanks. We really appreciate viewing and listening to you.😊
As a person buying a home for the first time and knowing ill have to learn this, thank you for breaking it down for us non-home emprovement types.
Same boat here! Closing on the 18th. So many plans but doing these vinyl plank floors is definitely on the top of the list. Along with painting and replacing baseboards and crown molding. Home Renovisions has excellent videos on all of it and makes it feel like I can definitely tackle it all myself!
Hi Jeff, Thanks for bringing the "wear layer" to our attention. I wanted to supplement this video by mentioning that manufacturers disclose this by using the measurement "mils" - which is a measure of vinyl thickness. A mil is 0.0254 mm which is 1/1000 of an inch. I have seen product for sale on the thin side of 3 mil and the thickest I found was 30 mil. Everyone should definitely be looking for these numbers to see how thick their wear layer is. A cheap plastic trash bag is 1.7 mil thick ... so be careful ...
IT's mostly meaningless unless you have big dogs or small kids. Sell a million feet of this stuff a year. 12-20 mils is good enough. 20 is commercial grade. 8-6 and below is trash.
@@maniswil2 thank you for sharing
Yes, shall be very careful about this
My son in law & dtr bought a home, the floor was already there, the wear layer scratches with the light bit of friction, they will be replacing it, the home is only 1 year old & floor looks awful
@@darleneprice1711 And this is what happens when builders cut corners by having cheaper flooring installed. Same thing thing happens with "builder grade" carpeting. You usually gotta upgrade sooner rather than later.
FLOORET - only available from Flooret - is the BEST. Have installed in two houses and LOVE LOVE LOVE.
Hey Jeff. The Home Depot LifeProof LVF with the attached underpad layer specifically states that no additional underlayment is to be added to the installation. They specifically state that an additional underlayment will void their warranty. Why is that???
Some have stated that an additional underpad is too flexible and prevents the locking mechanisms from fully locking. Particularly the locking groves on the end of the boards will fail to securely lock even if they are tapped down with a rubber mallet. They tend to bounce when hit and fail to lock fully. Your thoughts???
Long time flooring salesman here - you explained it yourself. If you add additional underlayment, there is too much cushion and “give” when you step, that the locking mechanisms eventually will break.
There is no need for an additional pad, as long as the product comes with one. That is the pad they use, they trust, and they warranty.
Also - stay away from LifeProof. With a 6-mil wearlayer, it’ll scratch like hell.
@@Millionair95 Thanks Matthew for confirming my suspicions. Following the manufacturer's instructions is usually the best road, since they designed and produced it. Looks like Jeff is wrong on this one. LOL
@@chrisgraham2904 This is a commercial for a product HE is selling. This is not an actual objective review.
I think you may have missed that. He is HIGHLIGHTING the product he teamed up with the company to sell from HIS store, so of course he is going to try to make HIS product better so he can make the profit.
@@le_th_ yep. He's selling his junk. You don't need underpad on products that come with it. What a crock.
@@Chopski64 Yep, glad you see through it, as well.
Notice how he FAILS TO MENTION that it voids the warranty to USE an underpad on the product that already have it?
He just want to sell what he has.
I'm glad I've found you brother on here you've helped me with so much. May God continue to cover you brother don't stop with the lessons
After just watched only one of your drywall videos, you became my new lover! My husband is renovating our basement and I told him I will do our drywall just like Jeff!
Weird cause he's my new love!! He can't be doing flooring in both our houses so I'm gonna need some answers! 😆
My contractor went shopping with me when we were picking out our laminate floor and he had us go with the pergo higher end floor with a lifetime warranty. That was five year's ago and our floor still looks brand new. I'm glad he took the time to go with me because my husband wanted to buy the cheapest floor out there.
I'm still at a toss up, most I hear about are the Luxury Vinyl Plank's, So confused 🙃
I've learned that sometimes it's best to put the money out, in the first place! Instead of putting in the cheap stuff, and then spending the money for the good stuff, it can save you money 💵.
I bought the cheapest tile, because it was on sale, but 20 years later it's got cracks, chips and the grout looks terrible - so maybe I'll lay something over it.
Maybe you shall try SPC
@@johnnywong8962 what's that?
We installed a plywood underlayment on top of the subfloor and have had no issue with 4mm flooring. In the whole upstairs. Not sure I totally agree.
NEVER USE UNDERLAYMENT with LVP flooring. The additional cushioning will cause the joint to buckle. I have installed over 10k square feet of LifeProof and never use an underlayment. In six years of installing I have never had one call back because of the sound of dirt 😂. Also be sure to acclimate the materials for at least two days before installing.
? For you. I'm installing in basement w/ linoleum floor. Mostly level with the exception of one spot that has a trough. Would self leveling compound work or should I not even bother?
@@bmack2204 If it’s minimal I would worry about. LVP is very forgiving with floor variance.
@@WildKnight23 thank you! And do you recommend underlayment for waterproofed basement? (Concrete subfloor partially covered by linoleum) If so any specific kind?
Lol Jk
@@bmack2204 Your welcome B Mack. I don’t recommend underlayment even if it is sub-level. LVP is water proof that contains no MDF so it’s not susceptible to water damage. However, if I was going to use one in this instance, I would use an organic water-proofing agent such as Red Guard. Be sure to use a quality LVP such as LifeProof.
You are so appreciated --your knowledge,experience, delivery style/presentation, personality, skills, sincerity AND sense. of humor! Because of you I'm less of a sap at the home stores. Thank you, sincerely!
So close to making a major purchase at Floor and Decor and this vid has given me courage! :) LOVE the channel! Thank you.
This guy is great.
100% hands down the most easy to understand information about vinyl flooring I've found. I couldn't appreciate the attention to detail more! Keep going, I've got a whole house to do!
Wild. I went with a 4mm HD “cheap” floor five years ago in a three season sunroom that gets tons of traffic and sees wild variations in temperature and humidity. It’s been flawless. No separation of the locking joints and it still looks brand new.
I ordered all of my flooring through Calibamboo after a lot of research. 20mil wear layer, 50 year residential warranty, free delivery to my door by freight, heavy product. I payed a little over $3.00 per sq/ft with transition strips, under layment, stair treads, and 1500 sq/ft of flooring.
Olive lol
We just ordered samples from Cali Bamboo, quality seams excellent! We really wanted 20mil wear layer and found out the box store brands only go up to I believe 9mil, so we started searching elsewhere and came across Cali Bamboo! Their customer service is outstanding also!
Hi Jeff, you have blessed me so much. I practically just come to your channel to search for info; the how , the why and the why not before taking up any project and have been so successful at them. Thank you so much for all that you put into this to make life easy for a lot of us out there.
This is why I love being honest and objective with the information. Great video, my favorite so far. Well done
That was an interesting and informative comparison. I’m certain most people shop by color/design on the same day. The lack of planning helps those big box stores.
I have seen people use this flooring on walls. Durable, wipeable, not a bad deal.
Very interesting. Great idea. May use that in our shop on a wall based on your idea. Thx.
For those looking for the top wear layer its called the 'MIL' layer. With the MIL layer there's a number associated with it (MIL 6 -20). The higher the number of the MIL Layer the better or 'thicker' the layer. This is the most important layer for wear. Most packages will list the MIL layer but some do not and in those cases do your research before purchase. You need to google that exact make/model for the MIL layer #. If you go to a big box store and it's not on the package chances are its a low MIL # 6-8. IMO any MIL that's lower than an 8 can expect to wear quicker. Anything that's above a 12 MIL can expect to last longer. Vinyl flooring MIL numbers can go as high as 20 MIL and may go higher. Also IMO with pets you're going to want a higher MIL #.
The room I want to add flooring to has tile. Do I need to remove the tile? Size of room is 19.1 X 11.9 Don't have much money right now Should I just put down a piece of carpeting for the time being, and save up for $ 3.50 vinyl and sub flooring or hardwood flooring?
@@pattyespinoza8902 Patty, I tore up the carpet. Put down the top of the line SHAW FLOORING - that was Dec 2019Before six months was up the edges that overlap were tearing up I’m in a wheelchair and I can remember rolling backwards a few inches --“CRACK”
Another piece of overlap to the ‘fancy’ flooring broken off
NEVER GET THIS STUFF or ANYTHING LIKE IT
I paid $2,600 for 25x25’ square great room - that was JUST THE FLOORING!!!!!
(Add cost of baseboards, paint, Labor, etc ...)
Please if you have tile, Sri I with it. Look on line for large rugs if you like - tile is the best. (Unless it’s broken and ...)
Then RETILE. NEVER EVER BUY THIS VYNAL-
And it needs doing alllllll over again!!!! It’s the biggest waste of money ❗️😢
It is called the "wear layer." "Mil" is a measurement of thickness - .001 inch. So, for example, "20 mils" means 20 thousandths of an inch (or 2 hundredths of an inch), 6 mils is 6 thousandths of an inch.
Wear layers go as hi as 28-30 now. Wear llayer isn't everything either. Some manufacturers have a coating on top the wear layer that make it more resistant to scratches like the Novalis brand 👍.
PureSPCMax brand flooring @ 20 MIL
Fusion-E or any Fusion line also has 20 MIL wear rating.
For you Michiganders, there's a Floor & Decor store in Macomb County, in Shelby Township on Hall Rd. Not only floor products, but also kitchen and bathroom tiles. Haven't been there yet, but gotta go, and Jeff is giving it a heads up for at least their underlayment rather than using Home Depot underlayment crap. Happy shopping.
These types of videos are gold. I'm gonna redo my kitchen and finish my basement soon and this knowledge takes all of the confusion and decision fatigue out of a rather large purchase. Looking forward to supporting your channel soon!
Amazing video, Love the help! Just sucks that the prices mentioned in the video do not reflect on your website. I called and Flooring is at $4.69sqft and underlayment is $0.79sqft!
Excellent video. We were at Home Depot and Lowes and looking at vinyl tiles for our master bathroom
Glad to know I bought the right product! But lifeproof says their warranty is void if you use an underpad.
Yep. Always follow what the manufacture says.
Couple correction. All these manufacturers have a substrate moisture restrictions. So these product can not be installed under warranty if the relative moisture content is to high regardless if the flooring itself is "water proof". The reason for this is trapping moisture can lead to standing water that can find its way into baseboards walls and studs witch can make for structural damage. There is also concern that in the presence of moisture you can have different types of mold growth including black mold. #2 Any Lvt ( luxury vynal tile) that is sold with pad attached can not be installed over additional pad. Doing so will cause structural support issues. Meaning that the material will flex to much causing damage to the tongue and groove systems over time.
It’s allowed in a basement
@@carolynj3475 it's allowed under the the same restrictions of relative moisture.
I am a flooring department manager at one of the big box stores. I liked this video and a lot of what you said is exactly what I tell customers. Especially the wear layer part. That said, it's hard to find a plank without an attached pad now. Also, I would never sell a plank that was under 5mm. I agree with your comments on price point as well. One thing I don't agree with is needing an underlayment pad. All the manufacturers specs and warranties state that additional underlay isn't required if it is attached. One thing I hate though is the fact that most brands require their brand of underlay or your warranty is void. So yeah maybe a cheaper product is fine but what if you have that one in a million situation where you need the warranty protection. But all in all, loved the video but I think some of our differences are differences between the salesman and the installer.
Yep. Installing an underpad when the plank has an attached pad can also void the warranty as it has the potential to allow too much flexion putting strain on the joints and premature failure. I was surprised to hear him recommend this.
I wasted a lot of $ on box store major name brand vinyl plank that DID NOT LOCK together at the seams
Which store and what brand of flooring ?@@cindybarber8449
Thank god there is a Floor and Decor within a quarter mile of my new home! Thank you for the info, this is exactly what i was looking for
what did you choose from Floor and decor? Are you happy with it? I have 880 sq feet that needs flooring in what will be a rental. thx
Or go to a local flooring store that has been in business for 25 years. The owner has 45 years in flooring and hires installers who are qualified, insured along with the helpers.
You will make ring marks beating your floor
You will negate expansion if you use his little tool.
Under cut the door jambs
funny enough under another video (in comments) you said that LVP with 1mm pad does not require additional/separate padding. Manufacturer is also against it.
I appreciate your recommendation of the store "Floor and Decor" for purchasing flooring products. I'm somewhat fortunate in that there's a store about a one-hour drive away. For what it's worth, I found a product on their website with the following specifications:
Thickness: 6.5mm
Length: 48.03 in.
Width: 7.17 in.
Wear Layer: 22MIL
STC Rating: 62
IIC (Impact Noise Isolation) Number: 64
Cork Backing
Manufacturer: Nucore Waterproof Flooring
Price per square foot: $2.99 (as of Sep 4, 2023)
I think the price is competitive and a good value. What do you think??
It’s a good value. Do you mind sharing which one it is? I’m looking at Floors to you. Get samples of whatever you’re thinking of buying. Nothing looks like a photo. No Coretec stone. Coretec can be good. Some are wpc, some are spc. You won’t know without a sample. Colorwall is WPC. Locking mechanisms. Can you easily break off the corners? WPC I can. I don’t think WPC in an 8 thick is going to match a spc in a 6 or 6.5. I drop things on samples. Hit with hammer, stab with hair pins. Drop food on it. I’m also testing with spilling alcohol and acetone on them.
Tip: use a small cut off piece of the flooring as your tapping block. Hitting directly may damage the locking ability!
Also, trim off the locking grooves for end pieces to keep the gap under the trim baseboard.
This video is GOLD! Thank you for making this and all of your other videos🙏🏼 This channel has been a true blessing to me.
Glad to hear you like Floor & Decor, I’m actually going there today to compare vinyl flooring for our house.
Thank you! I'm shopping (and educating myself) right now for my first ever vinyl plank floor. I plan to do entire house (minus two bathrooms that were recently tiled) so I only have ONE chance to get this right! I need to figure out what to buy and how much chicken and rice I need to eat to make it happen! LOL! Love your style! Fun video, but also very helpful!
Which one did you choose and why? Plus are you happy with it? We’re shopping and I’m overwhelmed.
I’m in the process of buying my first home and have been doing tons of research before I tackle any DIY projects. I’m very happy to have found your channel. Your knowledge and way of explaining the fine details is perfect! I can’t wait to have you help me on all my projects 😉
You have too ! I built this house 6 years ago, the laminate was a gorgeous cherry hue, the joints any where near any moisture are swelling..no more " moisture resistant", get water proof
Jeff I love your opinions ," this stuff wears better than hardwood, yeah I said it " I alsways appreciate your knowledge and presentations, always so thorough. You tell it straight. And you do the Lowes / Homepot comparison for us homeowners. " Good and garbage"..LOL The recommendations in this video are priceless, Thank you !!!!
Thank you so much!!!! In escrow for my third home, but the only one we will have to get the floors completed done before moving in. This video took me from hopelessly vulnerable to more knowledgeable and confident. I will definitely be watching more of your videos to educate myself. Also thank you for being honest about the products.
We have Floor & Decors in Arizona as well. I’ve been in that store and bought some Schluter products for my shower.
I know you aren't an expert on everything but you relate pretty well to the average person. In conjunction with others I use your channel to help me with almost everything on my house whenever I question my abilities on any particular task. Then I call my father who is a Civil Engineer and has renovated many of his own homes throughout the years. The engineer's mind is a wondrous thing. You don't always have to do things by the book. And often times, as long as you actually know what you are doing, there's better and more affordable but still sound ways to do things. I don't know your background professionally outside of this channel, but your suggestions usually jive with my father and that's a compliment considering he's an accomplished building engineer.
Gotta be careful with the underpad with the Lifeproof (Home Depot) flooring though! The warranty specifically says no underpad, or only allows you to use the QuicPrep underlayment. Any other pad will void the lifetime warranty on it.
The pad must have enough density or the joints will stress and eventually fail.
👍🏼
I'm in the HDepot all the time, Picked up a Lifeproof sample. Put it in a container of water in my house... for months! Had to add water because some would evaporate. It never deteriorated. Why would I do that? I see tons of rental properties with cheap flooring that have major damage from water issues, because the tenants don't care something is leaking, and you may not find out till it's too late. So that may be a consideration for some also. I think I'll leave a piece outside next:)
Great info, Jeff. I've done vinyl plank flooring a number of times in my house and my kids'. Used Home Depot's Traffic Master for our recent kitchen reno. K-R-A-P. After 6-8 months I have duct tape holding it all together right now. So bad that after a week even the cat crossing the floor would cause a "snap" that I late deduced to be the locking tongue breaking.
Will go back to Lifeproof (it's upstairs in the en-suite with no problems) to replace this junk. Thanks for the advice!
We have Floor and Decor in Salt Lake I love the store too! I bought tile there 4 years ago and just went back and they had the same product. I send all my friends there when they need something.
Is this a good store? I just realize I have one not far from me. They carry good brands for flooring?
Just a heads up for underlayment if you choose to go with the lifeproof product from homedepot;
LifeProof™ includes a pre-attached sound mitigating pad. Do not use any additional sound suppression underlayment or padding, as doing so will void the LifeProof™ Limited Warranty
Don’t use a padding or foam underlayment. Make sure the underlayment you choose for lifeproof is stiff. You can try it with and without. I MUCH preferred with a underlayment.
so does that mean not to buy any pad?
@@Bewefau Don't buy a pad, buy a moisture barrier (if you feel its needed)
That pre-attached 1mm pad is a joke. Not only it does next to nothing for sound proofing, but it also does next to nothing to even out any floor imperfections, which gonna lead to a disastrous installed floor. And if it can't take anything thicker underneath, then throw that junk in the garbage, where it belongs.
I installed lifeproof in my home without underlayment. Sounds clunky when we walk on it 😏
I would like to put LVP in the kitchen of my very old house with uneven flooring. Your demonstration was helpful and I was wondering if there is an uncomplicated/not too expensive way to help level the flooring for the planks. Thank you so much for your help.
We bought the life proof floor from Home Depot 4 years ago and we love it!
Any issues to date? What underlay you used?
@@t0fast any idea why?
Because using an additional underpayment will cause it to separate from the cushion that it provides. It will void the warranty on any click locking vinyl product. The one mentioned in this video does not say that it is warrantied for use under vinyl, so contact the supplier to find out if it is or not.
@@SirD1 LifeProof includes an underlayment layer, so you don't need to install a separate underlayment.
Debbie Tuter, in what rooms did you install LifeProof?
3 years ago I needed a floor for a 3 season tiny house here in Ontario. I researched the big box store floor options where I discovered nobody warrants vinyl flooring in freezing temperatures. So I grabbed all my samples took them home wrote down the dimensions and then stuck them in my freezer at 18C for 48 hours. I then remeasured and found lifeproof shrunk the least. So I went with lifeproof and have not regretted it. Non of the seams have popped and when I went in the winter it hadn’t shrunk so much that the edges were exposed from under the baseboards. It was very easy to install despite some of the reviews. I did install with out an underlay (unless you count the green indoor outdoor carpet under it) however if I was to do it in my basement I would put an underlay. Maybe now I will check out your recommended product. P.s. I would like to see comparisons for shower pan options for diy!
I think the test is heat not cold. Not sure what video I watched but it said temperature has to below like 90 or the vinyl will open.
As someone who has the original Life proof, low end vinyl planking flooring for 17 years now, it wears amazing. Unless you're dragging heavy machinery over it, you will never go through your wear layer.
Thank you. Also, from what I’ve read, the manufacturer voids warranty if under pad is used on planks that come with underpads. I think I’ll follow manufacturer’s recommendation on use of underpad (following the science)
Wouldve liked actual info on the underlayment product youre selling so I can purchase something similar locally.
Can you get it from the amazon link?
I have a floor and decor near me and that’s where I have been looking!! They have an underpad for $0.50 a sqft that is actually demonstrated at the store and works perfect
My husband just finished a remodel, when installing the floors they had insisted no underlayment needed. So to be safe he made them sign a waver naming them responsible for the install specs. I thought he was over reacting. They"ll both be interested in this video. Go to your local building supply, big box doesn't even know there own products. Great video
The Lifeproof product documentation from Home Depot says their warranty is voided if an underlayment is used, just fyi
Sure is... LifeProof has underlayment attached and requires no additional pad... The floor will fail with extra pad
Adding additional underlayment to a vinyl plank with an attached pad can cause the planks to fail because it might allow for too much flex at the joints. All manufacturers will void your warranty if additional underlayment is used. If you really desire additional underlayment (Generally for upstairs to help minimize acoustics below) then consult the manufacturer to see if they have one specified. If acoustics are the reason you are looking for additional underlayment, buy a thicker WPC product. Perhaps some flooring retailers will back your purchase if you use their underlayment.. I don't know.
For the DIYer, concerned consumer, or tight budget shopper, the best thing you can do to protect your investment is to ensure that the subfloor meets the flatness requirements of the product. If the subfloor meets the specifications of flatness your chances of failure are much lower. That said, this is a great educational video and I agree with the majority of what is said! I'm glad this video is available and really appreciate HRV for posting. I sell flooring for a living and often see people buying the lowest cost products and not paying attention to quality. Properly installed, these floors are manufactured to last you 30+ years.
Well that's pretty crucial!
macdification Exactly! Using an underlayment might cause the floor to over flex possibly breaking the locking tabs.
@@iocaine505 quick question, I am looking to put LVP over top of some handscraped engineered hardwood. Would that flooring me flat enough to still be a quiet installation or would I have to use an additional underlayment or remove the wood flooring? Trying to be cost friendly but also not do a crap install.
Would you consider doing a video on engineered wood and full thickness hardwood?
What would you suggest for flooring in a Class A RV?
Just did my flooring with Floor and Decor. Great store!
That is awesome!
The lifeproof vinyl planks they stock in the Home Depot stores have a thin 6mil wear layer. But you can special order lifeproof with a 22mil wear layer in most of the same styles for $.50-.60 more a square foot.
Wow, how do you special order it?
@@DewTime they recently brought it into the stores. It wasn’t actually order-able until October. Comes in 12mil and 22 mil. And the old 6-6.5 mil
Anyone buying a more grey color please buy the smoother ones, maybe called bamboo. I bought the kind with grooves and yes it maybe helpful in imitating wood but please be advised the grain is super hard to get clean. Dirt just seems to be attracted to this floor..
Thanks, I have installed a lot of lifeproof but never know any options on the wear layer.
Man wow 6mm... The vinyl my contractor is installing in basement is having wear layer of just 0.3mm and it's brand called lifestepp metro pro xl
By far the best diy teacher on TH-cam
I've been installing the stuff for 20+ years. I never recommend click-vinyl plank, always the glue down or the new loose-lay stuff. You want to be able to replace one if it gets scratched, and it's easy with the regular stuff...not so much with click. Also I've seen the click stuff fail often if it's in the sun.
I agree. Except- the substrate needs to generally be perfect concrete, or subfloor. More expensive, and involved- but repairable into the future.(you can replace and interlocking plank. But. * )
Floor & Decor is a great store. I work for Shaw, so I went with their vinyl flooring in my new house (I get it at cost), but for everything else, I went to F&D. Couldn't recommend it more highly.
My home and entire neighborhood recently had a sewer back up because of city negligence and I thought it best to pull up the non padded carpeting in my basement. The original tile floor is still intact. Question, can I put the vinyl plank flooring right on top of the old tile or should I put down some sort of under lay under the planks?
@@juanitanoju2984 Yes if your floor is level you should be fine.
@@harmzuay thank you so much!
My aunt is getting vinyl floors and this would be great for her to watch. TY! I am going with Tile floors for my whole house my Mom who’s 90 years old will be living with us and uses a walker and have seen what a walker does to wooden floors and I have 5 dogs so Tiles for me. Great Video 😎
Smartcore ultra from Lowe’s has been great for us. The water proof is great but should the perimeter be caulked in kitchens and baths?
Along the bathtub/shower area absolutely. Otherwise water will get through along the edge and rot your sub floor
@@ColinBPlays to add make sure you use a high quality caulk that has some flexibility to allow proper contractions while keeping sealed without cracking
I’ve nearly bought that hard angle measure tool so many times!!!! I learned a lot and I’m so glad I found your channel. We got so ripped off when we built our house 22 years ago and I’m more than ready to replace it! This is really well-explained. 😊
I liked the video. I did my floor wrong but I'm not fixing it. It was a response to bed bugs, no underlayment. 600 sq ft, 7 doorways and no thresholds. It's one circular unit and I'm real proud of it!
Don't worry underlayment is definitely not needed for vinyl plank flooring.
I am so thankful for your channel!! Thank you so much for taking the time to share you wealth of knowledge!!
Hey man, you’re the best. So informative, super helpful, and really fun to watch. I’m repairing and updating a property of my parents and have come to your videos time and time again. You’re doing great things and really helping people. Thank you so much!
This is a good video, My nephew bought some flooring that is not very good, he is new to this and he didn’t quite understand what I was saying about the flooring, I sent him this link so hopefully he understands everything the way you explained it. Thank you.
I work in the flooring industry (on the engineering side, not the installation side) and there is a lot of very poor information in this video.
The part about the wear layer was particularly bad. You can't see the wear layer by looking at the edge of the plank because it's too thin, and it is also transparent.
The wear layer is measured in thousanths of an inch, or 'mil', and it consists of a very hard substance, usually aluminum oxide, and a binding agent, usually some sort of UV cured polyurethane.
You can't just look at a plank and tell how thick the wear layer is. The layers that you see in the video are not the wear layer, they are just a result of the heterogeneous construction of the plank.
To find out how thick the wear layer is, you have to read the product specs. It commonly ranges from 8mil up to around 25mil, depending on the particular product and the price you're willing to pay. Often, the same product will be available in several different wear layer thicknesses, and they will all look identical when viewed from the edge.
For domestic use, 12mil is usually more than adequate, and even 8mil will last a long time in low traffic areas.
The most common reason for wear layer breakdown in a domestic setting is not foot traffic, but careless movement of heavy furniture.
I appreciate your input and disclosure of credentials; however, as someone who has worked with "old work" regularly, what is visible to laborer is notable and a definite reference point. I have no problem with him pointing this out. Yes, specs will be taken into consideration as well when purchasing. TYVM
@@nancyglynn2719 What I was pointing out was the fact that the layer of the plank he was pointing to was not the wear layer. The wear layer is essentially invisible to the naked eye. He may know how to install flooring, but he doesn't know what he is talking about when it comes to the construction of the plank itself.
@@thepenultimateninja5797 I appreciate this point. The wear layer is sometimes visible if you look very closely, but it's just about the thickness of paper - not very apparent.
@@cherrybearylemondrop Yes that's true, especially if you hold it up to the light and look at it from an angle.
Thanks for the information. They never talk about hardness, just thickness. Is there a lot of variation in the chemistry of the wear layer that affects this aspect? I figure the concentration of aluminum oxide can affect this
I had picked up a couple of different samples of the laminate planks at my local Menards before I saw this video. After watching the video I took another look at the samples one was 5mm and the other was 4mm. Interestingly I noticed that the 4mm samples were bowed upward between the locking joints so that each piece would flex downward in the center putting stress on the locking joints. The two 5mm samples lay flat with no deflection in the center. Really appreciated you pointing that out.
You are an amazing teacher. Very natural, very knowledgeable. Your videos are excellent. Thanks for your teachings. Can you do a video about building a foundation for a house? Have you ever done anything on container homes or installing windows in a metal wall?
Great info as always. I'm glad you mentioned Floor and Decor. Thats my goto spot here in Houston. I could stay in there all day with all the products they have.
This guy is awesome
Awesome to hear the Floor & Decor shout-out! Bought lots of our flooring from them (Travertine on the patio, LVP in the house, etc) and love them!
That is awesome!
COmDOg_// Floor & Decor is owned by Home Depot. That's what I was told.
I purchased what I think was the same one you discarded with the underlayment attached from Lowes...(Smartcore) That product does not require an underlayment per the manufacturer, just a 6mil vapor barrier, which cost about $40 for the entire house... I've had it in for two years now with no issues.... I did have to learn about using wood composites with an earlier project...never again!! But as of now the Lowes product with the attached underlayment works great.... the underlayment gives a little give over the concrete slab... just like you described with a separate underlayment, making it comfortable to walk on..with no crunch 🙂.(incidentally they have two grades of that product, both got GREAT reviews everywhere else)... and the vapor barrier also has no issues....
Can you install over an existing floor? I would install it everywhere on the main floor over ceramic (early 2000's look) and hardwood. I would use the underpad of course
Yes you can
Great information. I had received a quote for my basement flooring and it was just too ridiculous. Decided to do it myself. So happy I saw your video. I surely saved it to my favs so that I can review once it comes time to start my project. Thank you so much. Love the information you post. Love unbiased opinions relating to products.
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Jeff, Many thanks again! We are prepping to order our flooring and I new you'd have a video telling me everything I needed to know. You have not steered me wrong throughout our entire basement project! Too bad I couldn't get the floor from you. But we do have Floor and Decor's in my area... your suggestions on the vapor barrier greatly appreciate. The "normal" suggested products just didn't seem like they were a quality product... so thanks for the practical solution. I've even had two different retailers tell me I did not need a vapor barrier on my bare concrete basement floor because the flooring came with it. So again... thanks for the pro tips to help us be informed as we shop!
Cheers keith. Lots of advice out there designed to sell product. LOL
So no vapor barrier or any sort of underlayment on bare concrete floor ?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY wy is too hard to tell people what's going on that nobody can find your best floor on this video?
Another thing to consider when getting to the 3.50/sq.ft price point other than moving to maybe hardwoods, is that vinyl planks are easier to transport, lighter, less package volume, and I don't think they have to acclimatize inside your as long before install.
every floor SHOULD be acclimatized but vinyl is the only floor that can be installed with very limited acclimation period
IDK what vinyl floor you have seen but the Stainmater pet safe vinyl flooring I just installed was about 30 lbs per box and one box only has 8 planks in it! It is stone core waterproof vinyl and it is not light at all.
Hi Jeff, been watching a lot of your videos, you can always make things sound so much easier to understand. I'm building a custom home, so need 2500sqft flooring, which I'm going to talk to my builder to order directly from your website. Thank you for all you do, learned so much as well, appreciate it
Thanks for such an honest video. I've been studying flooring for 6 weeks and its been very stressful. I need flooring for a modest condo with a concrete subfloor. I'm heading over to your website . You are the first flooring person I trust.
id go carpet at least it is clean and and bio