I’m banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how to make my insulation board attach to my poured concrete walls in my basement. This video just helped tremendously. Thank you!
If you value your life, cut this iso with a hand saw, measure for your cut, slice the iso on the back side of the sheet, slide your chalk line in that slice and snap the cut line, and make the cut with one the old handsaws you inherited. It will take an extra 30 seconds and you will be breathing easier than cutting by circ saw. Total hari kari with a circ saw. The dust created will not be airborne, spread out a sheet of poly below the sawhorses & dump the residue onto the poly and its easy clean up. Best Insulation value available.
Better yet you should be using a carving knife. The stuff cuts nicely and snaps nicely as well. If you have to use a saw, try to do it outside and definitely do not do it without a mask if you have to do it inside and think about where the dust is gonna go.
So happy I saw this video before replacing my basement insulation . When I pulled out the rim joist fiberglass batt, I found found black marks showing all kinds of air leaks. Using the rim joist video, I installed foam board sealed with spray in insulation before adding rockwool. Thanks!
I've lived in my house for 11 years, and I am finally getting to work on my basement. I cannot wait to insulate it! Thank you for this video and the one about insulating the rim joists.
Basement walls can only dry to the inside. So by putting up a foil faced insulation you are trapping moisture between the wall and foil insulation. This is a place for mold to form. Then if that mold gets through to the wood studs and back of the drywall it won’t be long before it’s causing havoc in the basement. From the reading I’ve done it is best to let the walls breathe. Use a EPS beaded foam glued to the walls. This lets some drying to the inside happen. Using metal studs would eliminate organic materials and a paperless drywall would also allow drying. This would make an assembly that can dry to the inside.
How can trapping the moisture in the cavity between the foam and the concrete cause mold without a food source or a mold spore to land on said moisture? Also moisture will travel both in and out depending on the delta T and season. We have over 4000+ units completed in this manner with zero issues. If the hydrology is an issue with the basement then the moisture is now water and when the water builds and makes its way thru the concrete you would need to waterproof the wall first prior to insulating.
Frank M Bood Where is the trapped moisture to go? Provided there is not a moisture management like a French drain, drain matting to a floor drain that moisture is there for how long? Having a vapor closed insulation trapping moisture till it inevitably leaks into the living space is not good. If you are implying that moisture that comes in will be drawn back into the foundation and back to the soil I have a hard time seeing that in the northern climate zones. Taking into consideration if the foundation is properly sealed from the outside and capillary break is installed there will be little chance of water getting in till one or both of those seals break. Also exterior landscaping draining away from the foundation. My concern with any building method is not the short term durability but the long term. What measures are put in place to assure that if or when there is a failure within the system that a secondary backup is there to manage moisture. I don’t see a back up system put in place with this building method. You may very well have one in your building system. I’m admit I’m not a pro. I’ve done lots of reading a research across multiple sources. I’m just questioning the durability of a system that relies on a perfect seal. Stopping the flow of bulk water and water vapor is in my opinion a loosing battle. I believe it better to allow it to be managed. That foil tape will only stay sealed for so long. Then the bulk water and water vapor has organic material to feed on(wood studs). Using organic building materials below grade is a risk. Especially when you are relying on perfection. Thanks for the debate. I believe I have stated my opinion. There’s lots of them. I have not put any specific links to references. I’m not concerned with taking that time. I believe you are well educated enough to understand the points I have made.
@@jeremycondon3692 I agree with your concerns. Thanks for the open discussion. I live and work in an area where it is code to have a drain system and water protection on the exterior foundation. (perfect world) Therefore we don't see much failure in our newer projects. In our older renovations we use Dimple mat then spray closed cell spray foam as best practice. A majority of older homes here have an interior drainage system. This dimple mat helps allow the water to run down to the drainage system. We ask the system installers to run the dimple mat up the wall out of the drain a foot or so. (when we can) This allows us to install our dimple mat behind theirs and spray it in place. Have you seen water intrusion on a large scale where you live? I am limited to my knowledge of my area only. Thanks again for the input. These conversation help us all grow.
Frank M Bood yes exterior foundation drainage systems are code here as well. There is instances though when they are not done to the attention of detail and procedures necessary for successful long term operation. I’m not familiar with many houses having a French drain unless it was installed once a water problem was found or as part of a basement finishing system. I think having a working drainage system behind your basement finishes is definitely best. That and making sure all landscaping is draining away from the foundation. I’ve started down the long planning process of my own basement renovations. The old finishings were definitely not of any good design. 1x4s nailed to the concrete walls on 4’ centers and 3/4” eps barely adhered to the walls. It was covered with that ugly 1/4” wood pressboard paneling. The floor was covered with carpet that was glued heavily to the concrete floor. Shortly before I moved in the original owners of the house had a water leak due to the window wells flooding. They fixed the exterior issues but left the basement finishings in place. I removed them shortly after moving in and prepped for a fresh redo. I have been reading and researching techniques for over a year and planning. In that time I have had no water issues in the basement so I am confident as long as I follow best practices I will have a successful renovation. I have gathered: - it’s best to not use organic materials below grade. - fiberglass insulation is best left out of the insulation plan even if foam is applied first. - proper drainage systems need to be in place regardless of the dryness of your basement. -fix any known water issues before starting the finishings. - build a system that can dry to the inside With this in mind I have found a couple insulation strategies that fall within those guidelines. Glue EPS foam to the walls somewhere in the R20 range. And then build a wall in front using metal studs. The other alternative I have found is Insofast insulation which is a specially designed insulation that has integrated studs 16” OC that eliminate the need for building a additional stud wall for installation of your wall finishing. Or if you have the deep pockets. Dig up the perimeter of your house and seal and insulate then redo the perimeter drains if needed and might as well integrate downspouts at that time. My plan for the floor is a dimple mat with LVP since I have a limited head room of 7’ I’m still looking at other options like Rockwool comfort board and batts but due to added wall thickness I’m really interested in the Insofast system.
Great video. Here in Michigan we’ve been dealing with flooding this past year and I’m trying to find a new way to handle it without a repeat occurrence
Ran this inside the underskirting on my mobile home and it's almost as warm under it than in the house. Excellent advice here. Still kept the heat tape on our water line though.
Great video... before even stumbling upon this I'm using the exact same method to insulate the basement by myself in my new home I'm building. I first tried using powder actuated nail fasteners to fasten the board to the masonry, but the nails kept bending or shooting through the board and ruined it. So I abandoned that and now am using construction adhesive. It's slower but it works like a champ. I will spray foam all the seems when I'm done. Fellow Wolverine here... Nice video and Go Blue!
Hey Rob - Great video. I am an DIY'er and often have trouble finding any guidance from the big box stores. I really appreciate you sharing your expertise! Keep the videos coming! Thanks again!
Hey Rob, I've always used metal studs in basements because they're unaffected by moisture. Also if it's specked for fiber I'll use mineral wool because it's hydro phobic. Both will not harbor mold or encourage rot.
My old cinder block walls look like someone got real casual with alignment towards the top. Still, I’m considering putting foam boards where I can so they’re flat, and where the gaps are, to fill with spray foam. And then just create the stud wall an extra inch out. The extra gap between studs and foam board will just have to be filled in with more spray foam or rock wool.
Of course the coldest day of the year with 1” of ice and 2” of snow is when I go looking for home insulation videos.😂😂 Only to find your channel and come to the realization that my crawl space insulation is woefully inadequate. It’s going to be a busy spring, I’ll be catching up on all your videos until then. Thanks for all the tips.
PSA: Couple of notes: 1. Never cut rigid insulation without a mask on. 2. Do not glue the rigid board directly to the concrete, you will end up with mold. The rigid needs to have a small drainage channel built into the system. Either use furring strips on the wall or if you are made of money buy something like the insofast product that has tiny grooves built-in similar to zip system plywood. I flip houses and have seen this mistake cause mold problems many times, especially with block walls.
Regarding #2, this seems very contrary to preventing vapor movement and against what closed cell manufacturers recommend. PolyISO is the better of the closed cell products and is required to be fastened directly to the concrete per the manufacturer. Now, if the concrete walls are taking on moisture (enough to moisten a piece of 2'x2' plastic tapped to the wall in 24 hours) that is a completely different situation that needs to be delt with before any basement wall insultation work is started. Dry concrete walls (that pass the 2'x2' plastic test should have the closed cell board glued directly to the concrete.
I think the science supports this. Any block home is unlikely to have an exterior vapor barrier making water inevitable. You'll need an air gap to avoid efflorescence.
@@Quik5oh always assume a basement wall will not pass a moisture test. I wouldn't even think about spray foaming to a foundation wall unless I knew it was waterproofed on the outside (and I'd want to know exactly how well it was waterproofed)
If your going to make your house this air tight mold is inevitable without a good Heat Recovery Ventilation system. Mold spores are everywhere, and as long as you have a food source, mold will thrive. I do like these materials your suggesting. 👍
Very helpful video. I have the rigid insulation that is usually meant for roof insulation. It doesn't have the silver coating on the outside like the one in your video, it is more of a paper coating. Should I have a vapor barrier installed as well with the rigid on the inside side of the studs when I install them against the rigid foam insulation?
Some manuf of polyiso don't approve its use where it will come in contact with water. Also, if there's enough moisture in the wall and this is done, the water can migrate upwards towards the sill. If there's no capillary break (sill seal) and the sill isn't made of PT, then completely sealing from the inside can lead to a rotted sill. Better is a sump pump to manage water as it enters. Best is to control moisture from outside the concrete wall. I think also that I would use rigid foam up until a certain point and then switch to something that is vapor open at the rim joists (like rock-wool). Humidity entering from there could be managed with a dehumidifier.
Do you mean moisture or water will desolve the foamboard? I want to use what he's using to insulate underneath my metal patio roof and it may sweat in the corrugated ridge where the foam is not glued with the adhesive but it can drain down into a gutter at the bottom of the roof but i didn't know water or moisture could desolve the board.
Something a lot of people don't know though, is that polyiso r-value can drop dramatically when it's cold. It's something you can totally work around, but you have to know about it first.
Hi. Thx for the informative video and your expertise. I installed my rigid high performance aluminum sided foam insulation board behind an already framed wall. Now I want to insulate between the studs also. Can I cut another foam board and place it between the studs? Or do I have to use insulation batting? I prefer to use the foam board for moisture resistance but don’t know if that’s advisable…I know it’s more expensive and more work but I’m okay with spending more money and taking the time. I already bought the enough boards. I also have Owens Corning XPS insulating sheathing foam boards I could use. Thx for and advise or suggestions. Really appreciate
I used owen corning 2inch foam board. I used liquid nails against mssonsry. I just had to remove section because a leak in wall. There was mold all over liquid nails attatched to wall and foam board.
This is pretty interesting for me, I live in south Mississippi and we dont have basements here. Seems like moisture would definitely be a problem in a basement.
This requires an "it depends" answer. A basic "rule of thumb" for proper placement of vapor barriers is to make sure that it is installed within the first 1/3 of the total R value of the wall (or ceiling). Violation of this rule of thumb creates a greater potential for condensation to occur on the warm side of the vapor barrier. This condensation could occur as a result of insulation (foam board or batt) placed in front of the vapor barrier retarding heat energy allowing the dew point to be reached at the surface of the vapor barrier. Another factor that plays into the formation of condensation is the availability of a condensing surface. That topic becomes a separate conversation.
Isn't Polyiso best used in insulation zones 1-4, while zones 5-8 not so much? I read the gases used to achieve the higher R-value when forming it dissipates over time, within 6 months to 1 year in some cases based on the zone. What is your stance on that? Thanks
If you are using those 1ftx1ft OSB boards with the closed cell "grid" layout for your floor (the grid is for airflow), would you put that down first with a small gap on the wallside and then put this tight to the panels? that way you have airflow from the floor to the wall in case there is moisture?
If I’m doing closed cell spray foam should I get the walls sprayed first then build my framing walls or build walls first an inch of the wall and then have it sprayed?
I got an uninsulated cellar directly underneath my porch. It gets real hot with the morning sun in the summer and icy cold in the winter. can I insulate the concrete ceiling in there the same way as basement walls or would I need to do something different?
@@ConcordCarpenter The construction industry has two types of workers - those who aren't willing to accept the increased expense, time and discomfort of truly protecting their eyes, ears, lungs, skin, joints, phalanx - essentially the whole body - with appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, and those who don't. The difference between the two types can be measured in quality of remaining life, time to graveyard presence, and graveyard presence. It takes focus, determination and discipline to chase the least dangerous option in the time and cost-pressured construction industry. I would urge all workers to take short term pain of wearing PPE over the long term of various skin conditions, aching bodies and fatal lung conditions. Even if it means saying goodbye to the the better paying 'seat-of-their-pants' company, your body (and family) will benefit. Take a look at the physical and mental condition of construction workers from the generations who didn't benefit from today's medical knowledge, appropriate PPE and legislation - 99% will be a mess, the 1% who took the ridiculing/abuse will be in great shape. A thermal image camera will show just how far and wide the presence of toxic dust is. Not a direct attack. Great channel. Hitting the subscribe button now.
I have yet to find someone who addresses insulating poured concrete walls that aren't perfectly flat. The builder of my home obviously didn't pay much attention to properly tying the forms together in the middle of the height and all the walls appear bowed in, but are actually thicker in the middle, not warped. If I tried to put rigid insulation boards on these walls they would either be bowed as well, if they were flexible, cracked if they weren't, or there would be gaps top and bottom so I could have a plumb wall. Gaps seems to be a recipe for moisture collection and mould growth, so how would I get around this?
Frame the walls and use closed cell spray foam. You can also use just the spray foam and coat it with a thermal barrier to meet code. But a framed finished wall looks better and adds more value to the home.
Is it actually worth insulating the basement? In my house, the basement is unfinished, but during winter it still keeps a respectable temperature along with the rest of the house.
My basement has exist cmu with 1x furring 16"oc with paneling and likely no ext and int moisture barrier. How would you handle this situation: leave exist furring in place, apply 2" polyico to furring, apply 1/2" MR gyp board directly to polyico (which side?), etc? I thought about applying 3/4" rigid insul between furring, possibly adding another 1" rigid insul over furring and insul, applying vapor barrier overlapping 6", then applying MR gyp board? Seems to be endless options and applications but I'm looking for best practice for old cmu basement walls and humid basement conditions. Also, if water penetrates into the block and contacts the polyico and drains to floor does this create problems as well? Thanks
Hey, thanks for the upload.. What if my walls are coated with drylock, can I use the adhesive on the drylock surface without the adhesive causing a tear in the "vapor/moisture seal" that the drylock is providing? Also, would that adhesive adhere to the drylock?
@@ConcordCarpenter thanks for the reply!! I just finished up one room I went with batt and plastic because I wasn't sure about the panels adhering /proper bonding to the surface. I have a large room left to do.. I'm going to try out the boards on this one. Thanks again & take care ✌️😎🤙
@@ConcordCarpenter Im in upstate NY. In the winter time my basement is 60 degrees and in the summer time it is 78 degrees with a humidity of 90%. If I did the method you showed in the video how how this effect my summer and winter temps in my basement?
If you're using foam boards with a foil side, make sure you face them the right way by making the foil face the wall. I installed them wrong in my work shed by making them face inside of the shed, all the heat reflected right back into the shed and i was cooking in the summer 🌚 dont make my mistake
Im in Michigan trying to pass my GC exam one of the questions is which type of adhesive is the best to use on rigid insulation/ foam insulation on to concrete walls. Non latex, non solvent or solvent adhesives...? Btw I googled it but I can’t seem to find the correct answer. Thanks!
Hi Rob, I love the poly idea on the interior and the benefits of it. I'd prefer to be able to have the ability to inspect in the remote future chance that the exterior water proof treatment fails or has an inadequately waterproofed area. My girlfriend bought a small cape Rome NY built in a hurry, post World War 2. The unvented crawl basement is humid and needs the dirt/rock sealed in the areas it is not dug out...on that, I wouldn't worry about spay and I'd be able to crawl on it as opposed to a 15mil plastic sheet solution. Currently a large dehumidifier can barely keep it at 50% RH. The water table is high and aside from gutters, the cinder block exterior needs water proofing. What are your thoughts on spray polyurethane on the exterior from just under the siding, down to the "footing"? It seems like it would be waterproof and insulating and more durable over years of temperature cycling than the other typical coatings. It seems like like exterior inspection would be less likely to be required as far as accessibility is concerned.
@@ConcordCarpenter Thankyou very much!!! I found the article "Venting and Insulating a Crawlspace". Tuff Scrim seems similar to something I found Stego makes called Crawl which is 15mil. But Tuff Scrim's Antimicrobial Poly sounds like a good idea. I love your website's info and layout and will check it out some more! I used to live in Marlborough. My sister is in Westford. Cheers!
Does this stuff have any noticeable sound dampening qualities or not really? Turning an unfinished basement room into a theater and this looks like a great way to add some additional insulation over top the 2x4 and fiberglass that is already there.
QUESTION: I live in northern ME, cold! Bought a new home this year. If i add 2" insulation board to my guest room, against the drywall will it be worth the effort? thanks
Very informative video. I'm finishing my basement also. I plan on using R Tech foam board directly to the masonry walls. Do I still go tight to the floor and seal with spray foam if I have a perimeter drain? Thanks in advance for your help.
@@ConcordCarpenter how about in a house that, thankfully, has zero water in the basement, no drainage, and is located on a mountain. My front foundation is covered by dirt but it grades downwards as you walk towards the back. So much that maybe 2 feet of the back are below ground. I've experienced some hard rains but never and water penetration.
No, Polyiso is 99% of what we see unless it’s homeowner installed. Contractors who typically install this do so in basements with the hope that they will get the future of sale of framing and finishing the basement. In a DIY situation, I would say the XPS is common because of its access and availability at the local Home Depot or Lowe’s. There are two types of rigid boards we've commonly used. Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation board Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) insulation boar Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation foam boards deliver the long-term stable thermal performance of R-5 per inch. Compared to spray foam, it’s harder to install in awkward areas (for example, in a tight space where a rim joist is close to another parallel joist). Rigid foam is also fussy to install if the rim joists have a lot of wiring and pipe penetrations. But its cheaper and a popular choice if you’re doing a DIY project. Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) is a closed-cell, rigid insulation foam board that is bonded to facers on both sides Polyiso is most commonly used due to its fire-retardant properties. Under normal fire conditions, XPS, melts and drips while polyiso, chars over. The foil facing also helps with the limiting of any moisture travel. Polyiso is commonly used in roof, wall, ceiling and specialty applications within commercial and residential buildings of all types.
The polyiso board with foil face will prevent moisture travel better then without. The Thermax seen in this video also uses the foil to meet fire code. This board is allowed to be left exposed without added fire protection.
You mean XPS? XPS is very nice, but also very ungreen re: blowing agent currently used. Polyiso is much greener but can be sensitive to water. Make sure basement has no water issues before using polyiso.
Timely, I'm just moving into a house and need to do this! A question: To increase R value you mention building another wall over the ridgid board...would you do this directly on top of the foam board? I don't really want to loose all the space of another wall...but I like the idea of a warmer better insulated space!
Hi Ron, I liked this video, thanks. I am looking for insulation information/tips for a fieldstone foundation (Massachusetts if that matters). Is there a different approach to insulating a fieldstone foundation? I would appreciate any advice you have.
As a renovation project... What type of insulation will you consider for an existing exterior brick wall assembly on a historical residential building?
Careful Depending on where you are and the types of mortar used there are different answers. “Some” people want high R value, but that may lead to frost issues as not enough heat is escaping and your mortar freezes. Kiss your foundation good bye. On the other hand “some” people only lightly insulate as they want the heat to push the frost away, but more energy required. “Some” people need experienced, old, certified engineers. Lol My last reno on a 110 year old in central Canada We did not bother to insulate as per the architect Others have been lightly insulated (1” Sprayfoam) Another answer might be dig outside and use rigid insulation to protect the foundation Please remember the old buildings had big boilers and were hot hot hot. Today we are cooler and airtight. Ps. Ensure adequate fresh air
Can I build a sleeper floor on top of rigid foam board, fastening the sleeper floor through to foam board to the concrete? I'm building a subfloor in my garage in a sub zero climate. My plan is to also include foam board between the sleeper boards to be the thickness of the sleepers, then top with plywood. If so, can i shim between the bottom layer of rigid foam and the sleepers, as I would if the sleepers were just on a thin vapor barrier on top the concrete? Thanks for any feedback!
This is great, thank you! But what about the concrete slab? If I’m going to finish the basement, how do I handle sealing/insulating/finishing the concrete floor slab? And in what order? Floor first? Walls first? And how to handle if I have a floating slab?
If you apply the adhesive vertically, any moisture will flow down to the interior weeping tile. That's why you should spray foam the bottom of the panels as well
Hey guys really enjoy the videos. I have a 20' x 16 shed / Office that I have A/C (I am in Florida) and I have 2" x 4" exterior wall what would you use to insulate the walls and roof areas. It sounds like the beat I am going to get is an R10 or R13 with either the spray foam or the Foam Board. Keep up the great videos. D
Would this method still work properly for an attached garage with masonry block walls. I have a living space above the garage that is cold in the winter. Would i still need the vapor barrier on the ceiling if i insulate walls with the the rigid board, Frame, and insulate and put osb over that?
If you insulate a 10” basement concrete wall with 2” XPS, can you add lets say another 4” rockwool before finishing the wall with drywall? Or will this be too «sealed»?
Thanks for confirming. This subject is complex but I understood that the goal is to make the warm to cold air condensating point not happen insde the wall creating moisture which creates a whole new world of problems
Thank you! Can you affix this board under a metal fireplace base? That is, in my basement, I can see the underside of the wood burning fireplace that is located in the family room above it. I assume the metal will get warm when a fire is going. (I don't use it.) The area is an alcove that will be turned into a closet. Should I keep the polyiso x" away from the metal? I was going to use .5" polyiso in this area since it's a closet. I don't see how to attach a photo for clarity. Thank you!
Poly Iso doesn't like the cold. EPS and XPS will perform better in that regard. Also, a properly installed vapor barrier such as a plastic sheating that doesn't have penetrations and is tightly sealed ....IS a vapor barrier. However, they get badly installed and demolished during the construction and afterwards and very often the construction methods make them non continuous anyway.
Lol Rob hey thx for a great informative vid. Had a question about the adhesive used behind the GPS. Curious if any ole PL construction adhesive will do ? I don't want to remove the film that faces the basement concrete side..... was thinking of using like great stuff foam and tucktape....
How instant is the instant grab? Once I apply the Dap and press the boars against the wall do I need to support it somehow? Just used loctite pl premium on my first board and had to keep pressure against it for a while. Will the Dap save me from having to do that?
Hi rob, question for you We installed a interior french drain, did 10m vynile + 1.5 inch foam under. and installed a delta ms membrane on the interior wall that goes under the concrete (if water drip from interior wall it will go straight into the french drain. My question should we seal the upper delta ms with silicone + blue tape? We are going to use 2inch rigid foam on the wall for isolations
I've often thought about this subject so thank you for the information. Now here's a question for you. What about during the summer? Where I live, the basement is amazing as it brings in the cooler temperature from the surrounding soil & makes it wonderful. How does that effect it?
maybe i'm missing something here, but they show an example of mold/mildew growing on the brick wall, and later show the installation of the rigid insulation. . . . . so what keeps mold/mildew from growing on the brick behind the rigid insulation. typically moisture can seep through the brick stone and mortar giving mold/mildew the moisture what it needs to grow, covering it with rigid insulation, gives it the darkness to better allow it to grow. I think this video glosses over additional necessities to keep mold/mildew from growing. I'm sure it's important to put a vapor barrier on the inside like mentioned, but if water collects on the outside of the brick foundation of your home and there isn't a vapor barrier on the outside, the moisture can soak into your foundation walls and any void gives mold/mildew the environment to grow. Are there any experts reading this who can provide a more comprehensive explanation?
Best video as a DIYr that I've seen on basement insulation. So much conflicting info out there. You sold me on this system.
I’m banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how to make my insulation board attach to my poured concrete walls in my basement. This video just helped tremendously. Thank you!
Lol really that's the easiest thing...GLUE
your best practice is like listening to a step by step work instruction. I like it! Thumbs up
If you value your life, cut this iso with a hand saw, measure for your cut, slice the iso on the back side of the sheet, slide your chalk line in that slice and snap the cut line, and make the cut with one the old handsaws you inherited. It will take an extra 30 seconds and you will be breathing easier than cutting by circ saw. Total hari kari with a circ saw. The dust created will not be airborne, spread out a sheet of poly below the sawhorses & dump the residue onto the poly and its easy clean up. Best Insulation value available.
I've heard it can get messy good of you to pass on your experience.
25mm blade utility knife great option imo
Better yet you should be using a carving knife. The stuff cuts nicely and snaps nicely as well. If you have to use a saw, try to do it outside and definitely do not do it without a mask if you have to do it inside and think about where the dust is gonna go.
So happy I saw this video before replacing my basement insulation . When I pulled out the rim joist fiberglass batt, I found found black marks showing all kinds of air leaks. Using the rim joist video, I installed foam board sealed with spray in insulation before adding rockwool. Thanks!
great info. my favorite part of your video method is no small talk, straight to the info.
Thanks for the video, Robert DeNiro. I am always amazed at the diversity of characters and roles that you are able to play!
That guy neither looks, sounds, or acts like DeNiro. Put down the crack pipe.
@@markbrinton6790 Nah, there is def a resemblance. You may want to visit an optometrist soon...
I've lived in my house for 11 years, and I am finally getting to work on my basement. I cannot wait to insulate it! Thank you for this video and the one about insulating the rim joists.
Glad it helped
Basement walls can only dry to the inside. So by putting up a foil faced insulation you are trapping moisture between the wall and foil insulation. This is a place for mold to form. Then if that mold gets through to the wood studs and back of the drywall it won’t be long before it’s causing havoc in the basement. From the reading I’ve done it is best to let the walls breathe. Use a EPS beaded foam glued to the walls. This lets some drying to the inside happen. Using metal studs would eliminate organic materials and a paperless drywall would also allow drying. This would make an assembly that can dry to the inside.
How can trapping the moisture in the cavity between the foam and the concrete cause mold without a food source or a mold spore to land on said moisture? Also moisture will travel both in and out depending on the delta T and season. We have over 4000+ units completed in this manner with zero issues. If the hydrology is an issue with the basement then the moisture is now water and when the water builds and makes its way thru the concrete you would need to waterproof the wall first prior to insulating.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indoor_mold
Frank M Bood Where is the trapped moisture to go? Provided there is not a moisture management like a French drain, drain matting to a floor drain that moisture is there for how long? Having a vapor closed insulation trapping moisture till it inevitably leaks into the living space is not good. If you are implying that moisture that comes in will be drawn back into the foundation and back to the soil I have a hard time seeing that in the northern climate zones. Taking into consideration if the foundation is properly sealed from the outside and capillary break is installed there will be little chance of water getting in till one or both of those seals break. Also exterior landscaping draining away from the foundation. My concern with any building method is not the short term durability but the long term. What measures are put in place to assure that if or when there is a failure within the system that a secondary backup is there to manage moisture. I don’t see a back up system put in place with this building method. You may very well have one in your building system.
I’m admit I’m not a pro. I’ve done lots of reading a research across multiple sources. I’m just questioning the durability of a system that relies on a perfect seal. Stopping the flow of bulk water and water vapor is in my opinion a loosing battle. I believe it better to allow it to be managed. That foil tape will only stay sealed for so long. Then the bulk water and water vapor has organic material to feed on(wood studs). Using organic building materials below grade is a risk. Especially when you are relying on perfection. Thanks for the debate. I believe I have stated my opinion. There’s lots of them. I have not put any specific links to references. I’m not concerned with taking that time. I believe you are well educated enough to understand the points I have made.
@@jeremycondon3692 I agree with your concerns. Thanks for the open discussion. I live and work in an area where it is code to have a drain system and water protection on the exterior foundation. (perfect world) Therefore we don't see much failure in our newer projects. In our older renovations we use Dimple mat then spray closed cell spray foam as best practice. A majority of older homes here have an interior drainage system. This dimple mat helps allow the water to run down to the drainage system. We ask the system installers to run the dimple mat up the wall out of the drain a foot or so. (when we can) This allows us to install our dimple mat behind theirs and spray it in place. Have you seen water intrusion on a large scale where you live? I am limited to my knowledge of my area only. Thanks again for the input. These conversation help us all grow.
Frank M Bood yes exterior foundation drainage systems are code here as well. There is instances though when they are not done to the attention of detail and procedures necessary for successful long term operation. I’m not familiar with many houses having a French drain unless it was installed once a water problem was found or as part of a basement finishing system. I think having a working drainage system behind your basement finishes is definitely best. That and making sure all landscaping is draining away from the foundation.
I’ve started down the long planning process of my own basement renovations. The old finishings were definitely not of any good design. 1x4s nailed to the concrete walls on 4’ centers and 3/4” eps barely adhered to the walls. It was covered with that ugly 1/4” wood pressboard paneling. The floor was covered with carpet that was glued heavily to the concrete floor.
Shortly before I moved in the original owners of the house had a water leak due to the window wells flooding. They fixed the exterior issues but left the basement finishings in place. I removed them shortly after moving in and prepped for a fresh redo. I have been reading and researching techniques for over a year and planning. In that time I have had no water issues in the basement so I am confident as long as I follow best practices I will have a successful renovation.
I have gathered:
- it’s best to not use organic materials below grade.
- fiberglass insulation is best left out of the insulation plan even if foam is applied first.
- proper drainage systems need to be in place regardless of the dryness of your basement.
-fix any known water issues before starting the finishings.
- build a system that can dry to the inside
With this in mind I have found a couple insulation strategies that fall within those guidelines.
Glue EPS foam to the walls somewhere in the R20 range. And then build a wall in front using metal studs.
The other alternative I have found is Insofast insulation which is a specially designed insulation that has integrated studs 16” OC that eliminate the need for building a additional stud wall for installation of your wall finishing.
Or if you have the deep pockets. Dig up the perimeter of your house and seal and insulate then redo the perimeter drains if needed and might as well integrate downspouts at that time.
My plan for the floor is a dimple mat with LVP since I have a limited head room of 7’
I’m still looking at other options like Rockwool comfort board and batts but due to added wall thickness I’m really interested in the Insofast system.
What a great video. My wife and I were just talking about finishing the basement. Thank you for making this video.
Great video. Here in Michigan we’ve been dealing with flooding this past year and I’m trying to find a new way to handle it without a repeat occurrence
Rob...Rob..Rob...great video. Now can we talk about you're incredibly organized woodworking shop? Holy crap!!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
FINALLY... the video I've been searching for. WELL DONE 100%
thx
Awesome video. I am having my foam installed professionally, but you're helping me to learn.
Ran this inside the underskirting on my mobile home and it's almost as warm under it than in the house. Excellent advice here. Still kept the heat tape on our water line though.
Good insurance - no frozen pipes
Great video... before even stumbling upon this I'm using the exact same method to insulate the basement by myself in my new home I'm building. I first tried using powder actuated nail fasteners to fasten the board to the masonry, but the nails kept bending or shooting through the board and ruined it. So I abandoned that and now am using construction adhesive. It's slower but it works like a champ. I will spray foam all the seems when I'm done. Fellow Wolverine here... Nice video and Go Blue!
Q
. @is
Hey Rob - Great video. I am an DIY'er and often have trouble finding any guidance from the big box stores. I really appreciate you sharing your expertise! Keep the videos coming! Thanks again!
Thx
Thx
Hey Rob, I've always used metal studs in basements because they're unaffected by moisture. Also if it's specked for fiber I'll use mineral wool because it's hydro phobic. Both will not harbor mold or encourage rot.
All good stuff
My old cinder block walls look like someone got real casual with alignment towards the top. Still, I’m considering putting foam boards where I can so they’re flat, and where the gaps are, to fill with spray foam. And then just create the stud wall an extra inch out. The extra gap between studs and foam board will just have to be filled in with more spray foam or rock wool.
Of course the coldest day of the year with 1” of ice and 2” of snow is when I go looking for home insulation videos.😂😂 Only to find your channel and come to the realization that my crawl space insulation is woefully inadequate. It’s going to be a busy spring, I’ll be catching up on all your videos until then. Thanks for all the tips.
PSA: Couple of notes: 1. Never cut rigid insulation without a mask on. 2. Do not glue the rigid board directly to the concrete, you will end up with mold. The rigid needs to have a small drainage channel built into the system. Either use furring strips on the wall or if you are made of money buy something like the insofast product that has tiny grooves built-in similar to zip system plywood. I flip houses and have seen this mistake cause mold problems many times, especially with block walls.
Regarding #2, this seems very contrary to preventing vapor movement and against what closed cell manufacturers recommend. PolyISO is the better of the closed cell products and is required to be fastened directly to the concrete per the manufacturer. Now, if the concrete walls are taking on moisture (enough to moisten a piece of 2'x2' plastic tapped to the wall in 24 hours) that is a completely different situation that needs to be delt with before any basement wall insultation work is started. Dry concrete walls (that pass the 2'x2' plastic test should have the closed cell board glued directly to the concrete.
I think the science supports this. Any block home is unlikely to have an exterior vapor barrier making water inevitable. You'll need an air gap to avoid efflorescence.
@@Quik5oh always assume a basement wall will not pass a moisture test. I wouldn't even think about spray foaming to a foundation wall unless I knew it was waterproofed on the outside (and I'd want to know exactly how well it was waterproofed)
Scott Stephen Smith how about if I run dimplebord up the wall before my styrofoam?
How about if I was to run dimple board up the wall first? Then rigid board?
This video is AWSOME. Actually gives guidance
If your going to make your house this air tight mold is inevitable without a good Heat Recovery Ventilation system. Mold spores are everywhere, and as long as you have a food source, mold will thrive. I do like these materials your suggesting. 👍
Thanks for sharing
Very helpful video. I have the rigid insulation that is usually meant for roof insulation. It doesn't have the silver coating on the outside like the one in your video, it is more of a paper coating. Should I have a vapor barrier installed as well with the rigid on the inside side of the studs when I install them against the rigid foam insulation?
Outstanding. Great presentation and teaching
Awesome, I love this. I had no idea what to use in my basement. Thank you!!!
Happy to help
Have a pretreat of termiticide first. I've seen termites travel up (unexpected areas) to reach their food source of cellulose.
Clear & concise Video! Thank You!
Some manuf of polyiso don't approve its use where it will come in contact with water. Also, if there's enough moisture in the wall and this is done, the water can migrate upwards towards the sill. If there's no capillary break (sill seal) and the sill isn't made of PT, then completely sealing from the inside can lead to a rotted sill. Better is a sump pump to manage water as it enters. Best is to control moisture from outside the concrete wall. I think also that I would use rigid foam up until a certain point and then switch to something that is vapor open at the rim joists (like rock-wool). Humidity entering from there could be managed with a dehumidifier.
Do you mean moisture or water will desolve the foamboard? I want to use what he's using to insulate underneath my metal patio roof and it may sweat in the corrugated ridge where the foam is not glued with the adhesive but it can drain down into a gutter at the bottom of the roof but i didn't know water or moisture could desolve the board.
This was perfect! Thanx guys for taking the time to educate!
Some good tips, have only taped over the joints before- might go into more detail on the next build 👍
Something a lot of people don't know though, is that polyiso r-value can drop dramatically when it's cold. It's something you can totally work around, but you have to know about it first.
has to be really cold to make a meaningful difference.
Hi. Thx for the informative video and your expertise. I installed my rigid high performance aluminum sided foam insulation board behind an already framed wall. Now I want to insulate between the studs also. Can I cut another foam board and place it between the studs? Or do I have to use insulation batting? I prefer to use the foam board for moisture resistance but don’t know if that’s advisable…I know it’s more expensive and more work but I’m okay with spending more money and taking the time. I already bought the enough boards. I also have Owens Corning XPS insulating sheathing foam boards I could use. Thx for and advise or suggestions. Really appreciate
True professional !
I used owen corning 2inch foam board.
I used liquid nails against mssonsry.
I just had to remove section because a leak in wall. There was mold all over liquid nails attatched to wall and foam board.
Does liquid nail have organic material? I used a rigid foam safe construction adhesive on mine
Great tips for those redoing their basements, thank you ✊🏻
Thank you for this video. Perfect and logical information
This is pretty interesting for me, I live in south Mississippi and we dont have basements here. Seems like moisture would definitely be a problem in a basement.
great vid....best to not use fibreglass in bsmnt at all...Rockwool if you can'y use foam
What about GPS (graphite polystyrene) and the newer phenol insulation boards?
Must you also put a vapor barrier plastic behind the foam board or is it not necessary?
This requires an "it depends" answer. A basic "rule of thumb" for proper placement of vapor barriers is to make sure that it is installed within the first 1/3 of the total R value of the wall (or ceiling). Violation of this rule of thumb creates a greater potential for condensation to occur on the warm side of the vapor barrier. This condensation could occur as a result of insulation (foam board or batt) placed in front of the vapor barrier retarding heat energy allowing the dew point to be reached at the surface of the vapor barrier. Another factor that plays into the formation of condensation is the availability of a condensing surface. That topic becomes a separate conversation.
Isn't Polyiso best used in insulation zones 1-4, while zones 5-8 not so much? I read the gases used to achieve the higher R-value when forming it dissipates over time, within 6 months to 1 year in some cases based on the zone. What is your stance on that? Thanks
If you are using those 1ftx1ft OSB boards with the closed cell "grid" layout for your floor (the grid is for airflow), would you put that down first with a small gap on the wallside and then put this tight to the panels? that way you have airflow from the floor to the wall in case there is moisture?
No I’d cover it all up
If I’m doing closed cell spray foam should I get the walls sprayed first then build my framing walls or build walls first an inch of the wall and then have it sprayed?
I got an uninsulated cellar directly underneath my porch. It gets real hot with the morning sun in the summer and icy cold in the winter. can I insulate the concrete ceiling in there the same way as basement walls or would I need to do something different?
Ron, never cut polyiso without a dust mask! The particles are like fine spiked crystals and attack eye membranes,lungs,and gut!
Also use an Olfa/“exacto” knife and you will minimize the dust particles
Didn’t know that , not a a lot of visible airborne dust
@@ConcordCarpenter great video - I found a paring knife from the big box works great - blade is long AND rigid enough to cut 2" iso with no dust
@@ConcordCarpenter The construction industry has two types of workers - those who aren't willing to accept the increased expense, time and discomfort of truly protecting their eyes, ears, lungs, skin, joints, phalanx - essentially the whole body - with appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, and those who don't. The difference between the two types can be measured in quality of remaining life, time to graveyard presence, and graveyard presence.
It takes focus, determination and discipline to chase the least dangerous option in the time and cost-pressured construction industry. I would urge all workers to take short term pain of wearing PPE over the long term of various skin conditions, aching bodies and fatal lung conditions. Even if it means saying goodbye to the the better paying 'seat-of-their-pants' company, your body (and family) will benefit.
Take a look at the physical and mental condition of construction workers from the generations who didn't benefit from today's medical knowledge, appropriate PPE and legislation - 99% will be a mess, the 1% who took the ridiculing/abuse will be in great shape.
A thermal image camera will show just how far and wide the presence of toxic dust is.
Not a direct attack. Great channel. Hitting the subscribe button now.
I have yet to find someone who addresses insulating poured concrete walls that aren't perfectly flat. The builder of my home obviously didn't pay much attention to properly tying the forms together in the middle of the height and all the walls appear bowed in, but are actually thicker in the middle, not warped. If I tried to put rigid insulation boards on these walls they would either be bowed as well, if they were flexible, cracked if they weren't, or there would be gaps top and bottom so I could have a plumb wall. Gaps seems to be a recipe for moisture collection and mould growth, so how would I get around this?
Could you sand the imperfections smooth??
@@JasonBroaddus Are you suggesting I sand the concrete walls flat? This seems impractical.
@@notthesnail depending on how much it might not be a bad idea. I don’t know your specific and just had idea Gary.
Frame the walls and use closed cell spray foam. You can also use just the spray foam and coat it with a thermal barrier to meet code. But a framed finished wall looks better and adds more value to the home.
Thanks for the info doing a whole home remodel and need all the info I can get.
Excellent videos!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Much appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed it, please consider subscribing and clicking the notification bell.
Is it actually worth insulating the basement?
In my house, the basement is unfinished, but during winter it still keeps a respectable temperature along with the rest of the house.
My basement has exist cmu with 1x furring 16"oc with paneling and likely no ext and int moisture barrier. How would you handle this situation: leave exist furring in place, apply 2" polyico to furring, apply 1/2" MR gyp board directly to polyico (which side?), etc? I thought about applying 3/4" rigid insul between furring, possibly adding another 1" rigid insul over furring and insul, applying vapor barrier overlapping 6", then applying MR gyp board? Seems to be endless options and applications but I'm looking for best practice for old cmu basement walls and humid basement conditions. Also, if water penetrates into the block and contacts the polyico and drains to floor does this create problems as well? Thanks
Would hitting the block /concrete with drylock or equivalent first be overkill?
how much space do you need to leave between the rigid foam and framing/ studs?
You can Touch ID you wish
Hey, thanks for the upload.. What if my walls are coated with drylock, can I use the adhesive on the drylock surface without the adhesive causing a tear in the "vapor/moisture seal" that the drylock is providing? Also, would that adhesive adhere to the drylock?
Joey GunZiLLa yes, the rigid insulation will become your new and better vapor seal
@@ConcordCarpenter thanks for the reply!! I just finished up one room I went with batt and plastic because I wasn't sure about the panels adhering /proper bonding to the surface. I have a large room left to do.. I'm going to try out the boards on this one. Thanks again & take care ✌️😎🤙
@@ConcordCarpenter Im in upstate NY. In the winter time my basement is 60 degrees and in the summer time it is 78 degrees with a humidity of 90%. If I did the method you showed in the video how how this effect my summer and winter temps in my basement?
Where should the foil facing side go? Should it be facing the interior of the home or the basement wall?
It’s 2 sided foil
If you're using foam boards with a foil side, make sure you face them the right way by making the foil face the wall. I installed them wrong in my work shed by making them face inside of the shed, all the heat reflected right back into the shed and i was cooking in the summer 🌚 dont make my mistake
Im in Michigan trying to pass my GC exam one of the questions is which type of adhesive is the best to use on rigid insulation/ foam insulation on to concrete walls. Non latex, non solvent or solvent adhesives...? Btw I googled it but I can’t seem to find the correct answer. Thanks!
Non-solvent. A solvent would eat thru
Hi Rob, I love the poly idea on the interior and the benefits of it. I'd prefer to be able to have the ability to inspect in the remote future chance that the exterior water proof treatment fails or has an inadequately waterproofed area. My girlfriend bought a small cape Rome NY built in a hurry, post World War 2. The unvented crawl basement is humid and needs the dirt/rock sealed in the areas it is not dug out...on that, I wouldn't worry about spay and I'd be able to crawl on it as opposed to a 15mil plastic sheet solution. Currently a large dehumidifier can barely keep it at 50% RH. The water table is high and aside from gutters, the cinder block exterior needs water proofing. What are your thoughts on spray polyurethane on the exterior from just under the siding, down to the "footing"? It seems like it would be waterproof and insulating and more durable over years of temperature cycling than the other typical coatings. It seems like like exterior inspection would be less likely to be required as far as accessibility is concerned.
Check out the article that I wrote on ceiling a crawlspace on concordcarpenter.com
@@ConcordCarpenter Thankyou very much!!! I found the article "Venting and Insulating a Crawlspace". Tuff Scrim seems similar to something I found Stego makes called Crawl which is 15mil. But Tuff Scrim's Antimicrobial Poly sounds like a good idea. I love your website's info and layout and will check it out some more! I used to live in Marlborough. My sister is in Westford. Cheers!
Does this stuff have any noticeable sound dampening qualities or not really? Turning an unfinished basement room into a theater and this looks like a great way to add some additional insulation over top the 2x4 and fiberglass that is already there.
yes
1st choice is exterior insulation, 2nd choice is interior closed cell spray.
QUESTION: I live in northern ME, cold! Bought a new home this year. If i add 2" insulation board to my guest room, against the drywall will it be worth the effort? thanks
Nice. We gotta decide what to do.
Very informative video. I'm finishing my basement also. I plan on using R Tech foam board directly to the masonry walls. Do I still go tight to the floor and seal with spray foam if I have a perimeter drain? Thanks in advance for your help.
yes but dont block the drain
Tight to the floor, don't block the drain. Got it! Thanks again!@@ConcordCarpenter
@@ConcordCarpenter how about in a house that, thankfully, has zero water in the basement, no drainage, and is located on a mountain. My front foundation is covered by dirt but it grades downwards as you walk towards the back. So much that maybe 2 feet of the back are below ground. I've experienced some hard rains but never and water penetration.
Does it need to be foil lined foam panels for basements. Seems like all the 2in options are not foil lined.
Thanks in advance for the help!
No, Polyiso is 99% of what we see unless it’s homeowner installed. Contractors who typically install this do so in basements with the hope that they will get the future of sale of framing and finishing the basement.
In a DIY situation, I would say the XPS is common because of its access and availability at the local Home Depot or Lowe’s.
There are two types of rigid boards we've commonly used.
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation board
Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) insulation boar
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation foam boards deliver the long-term stable thermal performance of R-5 per inch. Compared to spray foam, it’s harder to install in awkward areas (for example, in a tight space where a rim joist is close to another parallel joist). Rigid foam is also fussy to install if the rim joists have a lot of wiring and pipe penetrations. But its cheaper and a popular choice if you’re doing a DIY project.
Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) is a closed-cell, rigid insulation foam board that is bonded to facers on both sides Polyiso is most commonly used due to its fire-retardant properties. Under normal fire conditions, XPS, melts and drips while polyiso, chars over.
The foil facing also helps with the limiting of any moisture travel. Polyiso is commonly used in roof, wall, ceiling and specialty applications within commercial and residential buildings of all types.
The polyiso board with foil face will prevent moisture travel better then without. The Thermax seen in this video also uses the foil to meet fire code. This board is allowed to be left exposed without added fire protection.
You mean XPS? XPS is very nice, but also very ungreen re: blowing agent currently used. Polyiso is much greener but can be sensitive to water. Make sure basement has no water issues before using polyiso.
Thanks Gents. Appreciate the insight.
Excellent video
Can this foam be installed if the stud wall is already in place?
Tough to do
Great info, thank you. Go Blue!
Timely, I'm just moving into a house and need to do this! A question: To increase R value you mention building another wall over the ridgid board...would you do this directly on top of the foam board? I don't really want to loose all the space of another wall...but I like the idea of a warmer better insulated space!
Yes, then insulate that wall
This was super helpful to know! I’m in the discovery process of finding a crew for a major basement/foundation remodel this spring. I’ll be in touch!
How did it go?
@@ChadAmI80 it didn’t yet unfortunately! We’ve had to wait for a list of reasons.
Hi Ron, I liked this video, thanks. I am looking for insulation information/tips for a fieldstone foundation (Massachusetts if that matters). Is there a different approach to insulating a fieldstone foundation? I would appreciate any advice you have.
I’d spray it
So do you need a vapour barrier plastic ALSO on top of the 2x4 wall now or would that not be good
@@freedomfilledlife not needed
I've never thought about cutting foam boards with a circular saw. I always use a cheap bread knife.
Your way as frankly a lot safer, but try using a carving knife and multiple scoring and that’s even safer still in terms of dust
As a renovation project... What type of insulation will you consider for an existing exterior brick wall assembly on a historical residential building?
Careful
Depending on where you are and the types of mortar used there are different answers. “Some” people want high R value, but that may lead to frost issues as not enough heat is escaping and your mortar freezes. Kiss your foundation good bye. On the other hand “some” people only lightly insulate as they want the heat to push the frost away, but more energy required.
“Some” people need experienced, old, certified engineers. Lol
My last reno on a 110 year old in central Canada We did not bother to insulate as per the architect
Others have been lightly insulated (1” Sprayfoam)
Another answer might be dig outside and use rigid insulation to protect the foundation
Please remember the old buildings had big boilers and were hot hot hot. Today we are cooler and airtight.
Ps. Ensure adequate fresh air
Thanks for your expertise. Nice Hat, Go Sparty🏈
Can I build a sleeper floor on top of rigid foam board, fastening the sleeper floor through to foam board to the concrete? I'm building a subfloor in my garage in a sub zero climate. My plan is to also include foam board between the sleeper boards to be the thickness of the sleepers, then top with plywood. If so, can i shim between the bottom layer of rigid foam and the sleepers, as I would if the sleepers were just on a thin vapor barrier on top the concrete? Thanks for any feedback!
Yes you can - use PT wood
Thanks for the knowledge, Rob !!!!!!!!!!!!
This is great, thank you! But what about the concrete slab? If I’m going to finish the basement, how do I handle sealing/insulating/finishing the concrete floor slab? And in what order? Floor first? Walls first? And how to handle if I have a floating slab?
Great point! Id do PT sleepers on the flors first with this in between
Hi. What type or brand of aluminum foil tape do u use?
How do I know if the coverage and board choice is inline with building codes? I seem to be finding conflicting information. Thanks...
What happens to moisture between foundation wall and styrofoam insulation?
It turns to mold without a drainage plane to help dry it.
If you apply the adhesive vertically, any moisture will flow down to the interior weeping tile. That's why you should spray foam the bottom of the panels as well
Great video bud👍
Appreciate that! 👍
Hey guys really enjoy the videos. I have a 20' x 16 shed / Office that I have A/C (I am in Florida) and I have 2" x 4" exterior wall what would you use to insulate the walls and roof areas. It sounds like the beat I am going to get is an R10 or R13 with either the spray foam or the Foam Board. Keep up the great videos.
D
What’s the best type of drywall to
use in a basement finish (Northeast). Thanks
Would this method still work properly for an attached garage with masonry block walls. I have a living space above the garage that is cold in the winter. Would i still need the vapor barrier on the ceiling if i insulate walls with the the rigid board, Frame, and insulate and put osb over that?
If you insulate a 10” basement concrete wall with 2” XPS, can you add lets say another 4” rockwool before finishing the wall with drywall? Or will this be too «sealed»?
Correct you can do that
Thanks for confirming.
This subject is complex but I understood that the goal is to make the warm to cold air condensating point not happen insde the wall creating moisture which creates a whole new world of problems
Thank you! Can you affix this board under a metal fireplace base? That is, in my basement, I can see the underside of the wood burning fireplace that is located in the family room above it. I assume the metal will get warm when a fire is going. (I don't use it.) The area is an alcove that will be turned into a closet. Should I keep the polyiso x" away from the metal? I was going to use .5" polyiso in this area since it's a closet. I don't see how to attach a photo for clarity. Thank you!
Poly Iso doesn't like the cold. EPS and XPS will perform better in that regard. Also, a properly installed vapor barrier such as a plastic sheating that doesn't have penetrations and is tightly sealed ....IS a vapor barrier. However, they get badly installed and demolished during the construction and afterwards and very often the construction methods make them non continuous anyway.
Poly iso works great. I’ve yet to see a properly installed plastic vapor barrier - agreed
Lol Rob hey thx for a great informative vid. Had a question about the adhesive used behind the GPS. Curious if any ole PL construction adhesive will do ? I don't want to remove the film that faces the basement concrete side..... was thinking of using like great stuff foam and tucktape....
P.s. I'm up in Toronto.
How instant is the instant grab? Once I apply the Dap and press the boars against the wall do I need to support it somehow? Just used loctite pl premium on my first board and had to keep pressure against it for a while. Will the Dap save me from having to do that?
Not that quick
Hi rob, question for you
We installed a interior french drain, did 10m vynile + 1.5 inch foam under. and installed a delta ms membrane on the interior wall that goes under the concrete (if water drip from interior wall it will go straight into the french drain.
My question should we seal the upper delta ms with silicone + blue tape?
We are going to use 2inch rigid foam on the wall for isolations
I would
Good video , wrong product for weather below 50 degree F.
How would you add drywall on top of rigid insulation without making 2x4 wall?
Little late but it looks like you put up the studs after the foam is up.
You could also use thinner wood if all you need is something to attach drywall.
I'm having trouble finding tongue and groove 2" foam board. Is there a shortage currently?
I've often thought about this subject so thank you for the information. Now here's a question for you. What about during the summer? Where I live, the basement is amazing as it brings in the cooler temperature from the surrounding soil & makes it wonderful. How does that effect it?
How about if the basement has a French drain? Should the boards still be attached to the wall?
maybe i'm missing something here, but they show an example of mold/mildew growing on the brick wall, and later show the installation of the rigid insulation. . . . . so what keeps mold/mildew from growing on the brick behind the rigid insulation. typically moisture can seep through the brick stone and mortar giving mold/mildew the moisture what it needs to grow, covering it with rigid insulation, gives it the darkness to better allow it to grow. I think this video glosses over additional necessities to keep mold/mildew from growing. I'm sure it's important to put a vapor barrier on the inside like mentioned, but if water collects on the outside of the brick foundation of your home and there isn't a vapor barrier on the outside, the moisture can soak into your foundation walls and any void gives mold/mildew the environment to grow. Are there any experts reading this who can provide a more comprehensive explanation?
That example was showing a water leak- most likely from a drain spout or improper grading
For rim joist insulation,how about sealing with closed cell spray foam the put in rockwool batts ?
Polyiso isn’t the best for colder climates as it apparently loses its effectiveness the colder it gets.
Thank you.
So what do you put on top of the insulation for walls? And how do you attach anything to it?
2x4 walls nailed RO slab and ceiling