wow happy you atleast found the culprit of the issue you live and learn… atleast u found it sooner then later brother now u can hopefully stop that ticking and it’ll be fresh again !
Great work bro and yes u are aspiring me to finish my build no lie I build the swap 20 years ago have it in back of my truck seating there since early 00.so yes u are aspiring everyone I believes, great work, great content.
I remember when you said you were reusing the bearings . I thought to myself thats a BAD idea, being that bearings are not that much money. I believe in spending the extra money and doing it just once.
It was well w/in specs but l thpught it was a good idea to installed a new bearings sinced it was open and the engine is making that weird noise. Part of eliminatiion process. Thanks
Not familiar w/ G22 build, what headgasket and piston to use. But the idea is the same lije g23 build. You'll need H22 cylinder head, camshafts and gears. F22 waterpump gear need to be swap w/ h22 gear. H22 crankshaft gear and timing belt. If staying NA, bore the block to 86mm and use k20a2 piston (no boost, unless you have the resleeve). Pay attention on headgasket you'll use, thats were the problem start and made people stayed away on these project. It's a mix procedures, if it's a G23 build, l say only use Honda OE headgasket and no worry on oil leak. Since your block is F22, just your your judgement on it, make sure all oil drain ports at covered. For plugging the head, you can do like l did or if you like, use kstuned head plug but smear hondabond on top and bottom side. Kstuned also sell a waterpump for G23, send them a email and ask if their waterpump can be use on G22. I think you can but dont quote mo on that. If you choose to make your own waterpump, thats okay too. Goodluck on your build.
@@sbtoonz1358 Yes you can and the last F20b that l did swapped for my friend cd5. We used a Honda OE H22 cylinder head gasket. Cometic sell F20b headgasket also.
@@sbtoonz1358 H22 and F20b cyl head are similar, it has same combustion chamber size except for valves. F20b valves is 1 mm smaller. You'll be fine putting it together.
i love the content but BRUH. stock rods revving to 8k with reused bearings on a turbo frankenstein setup just does not compute for me. i think i recall you kept the balance shafts but did you find true TDC and fully degree both cams? because you definitely added a second cam to a short block thats factory single cam which would inherently add imbalance.
@ okay i must have missed that but good on you with the rods. what about tighter clearance rod/journal bearings and degreeing the cams? youll have premature wear on higher clearance bearings especially if it isnt timed within 3-5 degrees of true tdc and almost guaranteed rod knock. h22’s exhaust timing marks cant be relied on for an F23 bottom end without degreeing. pre/post-detonation is definitely gonna be the first culprit of crank walk in this circumstance
wow happy you atleast found the culprit of the issue you live and learn… atleast u found it sooner then later brother now u can hopefully stop that ticking and it’ll be fresh again !
Thanks man! It's very annoying on 1st start.
Great work bro and yes u are aspiring me to finish my build no lie I build the swap 20 years ago have it in back of my truck seating there since early 00.so yes u are aspiring everyone I believes, great work, great content.
Thanks man and really appreciate all the support.
Te felicito. amigo. Inpecable ese trabajo. Saludos desde Hidalgo Mexico.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Mucho gracias karnal!
I remember when you said you were reusing the bearings . I thought to myself thats a BAD idea, being that bearings are not that much money. I believe in spending the extra money and doing it just once.
Definitely agree.
Yeah it was a bad call reusing a bearing!
I shouldn't cheap out on that bearings.
Won’t be long till those cylinder walls turn to egg shape with major scoring. Sucks to see hard work being done and having piston slap be an issue.
@anthonycha8857 We'll see how long it'll last.
Use ATI or fluidampr damper for bearing safety,maybe that would help with the noise too.
Been wanting to install a ati damper. Just need to save up more. One of rhese days l'll have it. Thanks
@sagittnet2158 i was thinking about this also, cause if I remember, is this the bottom end without the balance shafts?
@jlgibson1983 yes, b/s deleted
side to side play is completely normal on the rods tbh if it didn't have any id be more concerned, haven't finished video yet lol
It was well w/in specs but l thpught it was a good idea to installed a new bearings sinced it was open and the engine is making that weird noise. Part of eliminatiion process. Thanks
I have f22b2 motor and want to put a h22a4 head…g22 Frankenstein but not sure what’s needed
Not familiar w/ G22 build, what headgasket and piston to use. But the idea is the same lije g23 build. You'll need H22 cylinder head, camshafts and gears. F22 waterpump gear need to be swap w/ h22 gear. H22 crankshaft gear and timing belt. If staying NA, bore the block to 86mm and use k20a2 piston (no boost, unless you have the resleeve). Pay attention on headgasket you'll use, thats were the problem start and made people stayed away on these project. It's a mix procedures, if it's a G23 build, l say only use Honda OE headgasket and no worry on oil leak. Since your block is F22, just your your judgement on it, make sure all oil drain ports at covered. For plugging the head, you can do like l did or if you like, use kstuned head plug but smear hondabond on top and bottom side. Kstuned also sell a waterpump for G23, send them a email and ask if their waterpump can be use on G22. I think you can but dont quote mo on that. If you choose to make your own waterpump, thats okay too. Goodluck on your build.
Random.... can i use an H22A p13 head on a JDM F20b (vtec 2.0 DOHC) bottom end?? I have asked around and people say yes -> just use H22a headgasket
@@sbtoonz1358 Yes you can and the last F20b that l did swapped for my friend cd5. We used a Honda OE H22 cylinder head gasket. Cometic sell F20b headgasket also.
@@sbtoonz1358 H22 and F20b cyl head are similar, it has same combustion chamber size except for valves. F20b valves is 1 mm smaller. You'll be fine putting it together.
i love the content but BRUH. stock rods revving to 8k with reused bearings on a turbo frankenstein setup just does not compute for me. i think i recall you kept the balance shafts but did you find true TDC and fully degree both cams? because you definitely added a second cam to a short block thats factory single cam which would inherently add imbalance.
It was OE rods when it was NA motor and l replaced it w/ forged conrods when l went turbo.
@ okay i must have missed that but good on you with the rods. what about tighter clearance rod/journal bearings and degreeing the cams? youll have premature wear on higher clearance bearings especially if it isnt timed within 3-5 degrees of true tdc and almost guaranteed rod knock. h22’s exhaust timing marks cant be relied on for an F23 bottom end without degreeing. pre/post-detonation is definitely gonna be the first culprit of crank walk in this circumstance
Probably just need a valve adjustment
Wish it was, l checked it 3× already.