@@AlessioSangalli He made an error during recording, he wanted to "start over" from a point in time. Many will use the "Start Over" as a cue to "edit that out", some will leave it in. Adam left it in this time either inadvertently or as a "yea, I'm human, I screw up"...
@@Shop-Tech what do you mean? I am not sure what is the logic you say that, I'm not saying you are wrong, I simply do not understand what is the reasoning behind
Not trying to speak out of turn, but that key did it's job. Protected the K&T from interior damage. Excellent result- no damage was done to the machine, and no hardened tooling exploded. (no shrapnel) As a mechanical press operator i would like to share that Torque, Horsepower and Tonnage can explode tooling. Without clearance powered machines can go BOOM and the metal flies like shrapnel. You did nothing wrong- the hardness of that key is meant to be soft to both protect the operator, and the equipment. I know Adam knows this; but i only mentioned for readers like myself who find this stuff interesting. I have learned much also from reading comments and I do appreciate comments from those who are my seniors knowledge wise. Thanks for the abilities you show Adam- you set the bar pretty high.Like Keith Fenner said- "Set you're standards and never settle"
Glad to see I'm not the only one who gets my tongue tangled and has to restart shots. Adam, you do a great job of cleaning up the edits while still keeping a very natural feel.
i havent seen this type of set up since i was in tech school in 1979. man i love your channel you are the best at showing the set ups and new products for machine work, thanks,L,C,
That clamping method on the mill could easily bow the fixture plate. Especially when the edges probably have draught on them. The job is a bit tricky to clamp on that table. Maybe it needs some holes put in first so you can clamp on the T-slots in the middle of the fixture plate.
Cast iron was the first material I ever worked with, when I started learning machining, cutting wheels for live steam railroad cars (1 1/2" scale). Ever since, I've loved cutting cast iron. Yes, it can be messy and dirty, but freshly-machined cast iron just looks so nice!
You can judge a professional by how many times they check the work to be worked on, amateurs setup measure once and let er rip, professionals measure, adjust as needed, measure again adjust as needed, double check their measurements again before beginning to cut. I'm in carpentry, not metal work, and we have a saying, "measure twice, cut once and save money and time," and you take that one way up the scale. Thanks for the videos, they are very educating, even to someone who knows so little about the profession, such as I.
Good on you for using that thing and saving your back and joints. I’m not as much of a sasquatch as you, but big enough to be tempted to just pick up stuff I shouldn’t.
Adam, Really cool video, great content, I’m looking forward to seeing more operations on this fixture plate, thanks for sharing your knowledge, skills, & talents with us.!.!.!.
That Skyhook is great - it's obviously not just about lifting a piece from A-B - a workpiece can hover where it roughly needs to be whilst you arrange and take care of things like the parallels, raising or lowering without any effort, without having to constantly wrestle a heavier workpiece. Very nice.
On every Abom79 video I think of the reality of human life. The vast majority of us are family members, and we have close and loving relationships with our family. Every Abom79 video ends with a photo of three generations of Booth men. Thanks Adam.
I wish to thank you for demo starting the virtues of a traditional Arbor Press. Before your videos I just thought why would anyone use one of those old things when you could use a hydraulic press. Thanks for the knowledge.
Abom, video tip: when you make a mistake and need to cut, clap near the mic. You'll see the spike in the audio waveform and know to cut there. I use it all the time for work.
Aussies had access to Skyhooks from 1974 onwards. A few model changes along the way though in later years. Yep, we sure were "Living in the 70's" then. 🎤🥁🎸🎙🎚
In our shop we have a Maho 700. It’s about the same size as your Milwaukee. Sure wish we had a Milwaukee. Love those machines. I hope that the casting was properly aged. But you do good work and produce great videos. Keep up the good work.
Adam ...love your content brother peace n love buddy ..from cumbria uk.......ps would have liked to see a centre support on that piece lol keep up the amazing work ...
That happens because there is so little of the key that has to take the torque. Also because you have such a large diameter cutter there is a huge torque at the arbour. I learned something new today to consider when setting up a machining operation Thanks
Something to add, For both keys and drive dogs and tangs on morse tape tools They are not supposed to take load at all and are there as a guide - It is supposed to be on the frictional larger area The torque in cutters like these is transferred via the arbours compressing against the side of the disk like brake calipers The fact this happened was probably the arbour vibrated loose
This is why you should NEVER use key ways with the slitting saws, I was taught during my apprentership, this will allow the drive arbor to keep turning if the cutter looks up in the job. Only use the key, when using wider slab mills., love your work, and videos
The sky hook, can you take the two pipes out, the vertical and the slanted arm, takr the wheel atm and flip it up side down, that may put the wheel on the other side..
Sheared arbor key is pretty common with those large slitting cutters. Be extra sure the arbor nut is tight, the drive collars make up a lot of the torque. Been there done that on my 1942 K&T 2HL mill. Is your vertical head attachment fixed to the column? My universal attachment can be moved in and out on the overarms and rotated 360 in 2 planes. A trade off rigidity vs more setup options. Thanks.
Ah yes, the "list", I have a few of those, mainly for EDC goodies, but there are a good few tool on there, mostly small modelling type ones, but there are a few bigger shinies too... ;-)
Ya I said too much power. That saw you used was perfect, big gullets for chip clearence. That hollow grind and side clearemce wear on the teeth. Nice disk off HSS though . And that's straddle milling, the limits of Y . That fireball fixture plate is just awesome by the way lapping plate, surface plate , very useful thing's go through my head when i see that . (bbQ grill?)can you tell us more about the iron they use in those is it nickle tin dimensional stable
HI Adam, why not set up your SkyHook on the right hand side of the K&T table. that way your crank handle will be towards you and swing would leave crank handle towards you . great video, again !
I checked out Fireball Tool, man he’s has some great table top for welding that I’m really interested in. I don’t have a whole lot of room so those would be perfect.
What keeps striking me over and over again. . . tools to make tools to make. . . the complexity of civilization becomes very apparent. . . a piece from Poland is made to fit a piece from Japan. . .
Heat expansion of blade? Is there a taper towards the center? That is behind the teeth, towards center? The coefficients of expansion between aluminum and steel I imagine could be a factor. Interesting problem.
Another option for the Sky Lift is to mount it to the cart. It would give much more flexibility and mobility. Just add more weight to the cart than you lift.
This currently has more flexibility as he's got the one for use on miller bed or on the lathe tool post for fixed control as opposed to reducing the car's mobility with counter ballast
Question: When you removed the aluminium plate were there a lot of chips in the gully? Could those chips have been picked up by the cutter and that is what caused your jamb up?
I would put the piece down on the 123 bocks on the four corners .Then checked to see if the blocks were tight on all four corners and packed the ones that were not. The I would have put clamps on the four corners. Clamping the piece in a free state would have given a flatter work piece to put in the shaper. Just a suggestion.
I think his parking head is still attached? All that's needed is loosening the 6 head bolts, then slide the head out and around out of the way, then push out the 2 over arms and mount a HRZ arbor support
I would think you could get some downward flex without blocks in the middle as the cutter got to the middle of the plate? Please explain why you wouldn't? Thanks for the great videos.
Wouldn’t you need some center support in order to keep the workpiece from bowing due to the milling stresses? Excellent work as usual Adam, I sure do love watching you work!
There are pros and cons to this By supporting it you don't remove any bow, you just ensure any bowing is flexing upwards On a cast iron piece 3/4" think the chance of major bowing is very small so is likely not a worry The issue with mid length supports is that unless you know the surface is true to begin with you are not going to have contact on all 6 points meaning you may have imbalances By using 4 you ensure that it will not rock heavily
@@pbysome As he has shackle now the load is trying to spread the shackle apart and the only thing holding it together are the threads on the pin. On this light on a load it doesn't matter but good practice you should do it the correct way.
@@hobanm45 it would be the same the other way up, equal and opposite, lifted many tons with shackles and with the pin in the hook it merely slips into the crook so the load is on the threads anyhoo, BTW the threads are designed to take the load and are tested to twice their capacity so fear not.
I looked up the shear strength of a key something like that, it's about a ton for 1/4 inch of width, so with the leverage of that saw about 5:1 that's only 400 lbs at the teeth. Maybe you could weld a hub to the saw to get more width on the key to avoid a repeat failure.
Its two fold, it looks like mild steel in place of key steel which makes it weaker. Also the majority load is not in the key but in the clamping effect of the arbor over a larger area - a collar on each side would easily double the clamping area
The fact that you inadvertently left the “start over” in the video confirms that you really care when shooting videos. Thanks ABOM.
Happens again between 24:30 and 25:00 (but without the cut).
Can you explain what that means?
@@AlessioSangalli He made an error during recording, he wanted to "start over" from a point in time. Many will use the "Start Over" as a cue to "edit that out", some will leave it in. Adam left it in this time either inadvertently or as a "yea, I'm human, I screw up"...
277 comments and compliments and 4 replies shows he doesn't care at all.
@@Shop-Tech what do you mean? I am not sure what is the logic you say that, I'm not saying you are wrong, I simply do not understand what is the reasoning behind
Not trying to speak out of turn, but that key did it's job. Protected the K&T from interior damage. Excellent result- no damage was done to the machine, and no hardened tooling exploded. (no shrapnel) As a mechanical press operator i would like to share that Torque, Horsepower and Tonnage can explode tooling. Without clearance powered machines can go BOOM and the metal flies like shrapnel.
You did nothing wrong- the hardness of that key is meant to be soft to both protect the operator, and the equipment.
I know Adam knows this; but i only mentioned for readers like myself who find this stuff interesting. I have learned much also from reading comments and I do appreciate comments from those who are my seniors knowledge wise. Thanks for the abilities you show Adam- you set the bar pretty high.Like Keith Fenner said- "Set you're standards and never settle"
Glad to see I'm not the only one who gets my tongue tangled and has to restart shots. Adam, you do a great job of cleaning up the edits while still keeping a very natural feel.
I heard a "Cut, start over" @ 17:55 haha. Looks great
Love the inclusion of 'cut, start over'. High quality all around with Abom.
Haha... it's at 17:58 Adam if your wondering where.
Great Job Adam! I have been watching your videos for a good 5 years and it’s amazing how far you have come.
i havent seen this type of set up since i was in tech school in 1979. man i love your channel you are the best at showing the set ups and new products for machine work, thanks,L,C,
Man it is such a great thing to be able to see all this, thanks for sharing all that you do.
That clamping method on the mill could easily bow the fixture plate. Especially when the edges probably have draught on them.
The job is a bit tricky to clamp on that table. Maybe it needs some holes put in first so you can clamp on the T-slots in the middle of the fixture plate.
I retired from Cal Fire Aviation about 6 months ago. We ordered some end Mills & reamers from Poland and they are nice, reliable, and holds an edge 😎
Great to see the Carver clamps I sent you in use!
Good job Adam, going to watch the next one and call it a day. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
Cast iron was the first material I ever worked with, when I started learning machining, cutting wheels for live steam railroad cars (1 1/2" scale). Ever since, I've loved cutting cast iron. Yes, it can be messy and dirty, but freshly-machined cast iron just looks so nice!
And the odour of machined cast iron is something special too. I could smell it all the way through this video.
You can judge a professional by how many times they check the work to be worked on, amateurs setup measure once and let er rip, professionals measure, adjust as needed, measure again adjust as needed, double check their measurements again before beginning to cut.
I'm in carpentry, not metal work, and we have a saying, "measure twice, cut once and save money and time," and you take that one way up the scale.
Thanks for the videos, they are very educating, even to someone who knows so little about the profession, such as I.
Good on you for using that thing and saving your back and joints. I’m not as much of a sasquatch as you, but big enough to be tempted to just pick up stuff I shouldn’t.
Adam, Really cool video, great content, I’m looking forward to seeing more operations on this fixture plate, thanks for sharing your knowledge, skills, & talents with us.!.!.!.
Nice to see what the new facemill can do. Nice finish!
That Skyhook is great - it's obviously not just about lifting a piece from A-B - a workpiece can hover where it roughly needs to be whilst you arrange and take care of things like the parallels, raising or lowering without any effort, without having to constantly wrestle a heavier workpiece. Very nice.
On every Abom79 video I think of the reality of human life. The vast majority of us are family members, and we have close and loving relationships with our family. Every Abom79 video ends with a photo of three generations of Booth men. Thanks Adam.
Thanks for the great camera work and editing.
Looks good, looking forward to the gang milling and the shaper work. Then all the holes you'll put in it.
I wish to thank you for demo starting the virtues of a traditional Arbor Press. Before your videos I just thought why would anyone use one of those old things when you could use a hydraulic press. Thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
Thanks Adam. Sure like seeing you Dad and Grand Dad at the end of your videos.
Thanks Adam, stay safe!
I was wondering why I am so attracted to these videos and I just thought that it is because the machines work so well without any debugging needed
Thanks Adam I enjoy watching your video
love that photo at the end. you are a good man adam, i can tell.
Glad that arbor didn't get bent too badly. Looks like you were able to straighten it out. That's nice large fixture plate.
"20 mm" ooh that must have hurt! Thanks for such an fascinating repair investigation and new tool use.
I just can't get over how nice your two-piece voice is
Abom, video tip: when you make a mistake and need to cut, clap near the mic. You'll see the spike in the audio waveform and know to cut there. I use it all the time for work.
Better still if you have a Clapper block - the wave is much more crisp and easy to find in noisy videos
gotta love that sky hook! wish i had one when i was a kid!
Aussies had access to Skyhooks from 1974 onwards. A few model changes along the way though in later years. Yep, we sure were "Living in the 70's" then. 🎤🥁🎸🎙🎚
I love you the quality job very professional and good moment in video. Always class. 👍 Champion. Tank you very much.
I always enjoy and learn with your videos.
In our shop we have a Maho 700. It’s about the same size as your Milwaukee. Sure wish we had a Milwaukee. Love those machines. I hope that the casting was properly aged. But you do good work and produce great videos. Keep up the good work.
Gotta love a good press. The 'shop's way of saying "I said please...."
and the torch say's "I'm done with being nice!"
Great stuff Adam. Thanks again.
I ♥️ machining, fabricating and welding.
Heavy & Cast iron / steel cutter is what ABOM is about
In my shop we call it the 'S.S.B' or "Smoke Stopper Button". Rock on Abomb.
Great video and thanks for sharing! Stay Safe Guys!
Boy that press is nice. I’d love to have one like that. Add that to my long list of “one days” I guess. Lol
Thanks , Abom 79
Happy 4th to you and your family.
Uuuuummmm new cutter used to love getting my hands on one.
Cool. Tungaloy makes nice stuff. That baby cut like a hot knife through butter.
Thanks Adam.
Adam ...love your content brother peace n love buddy ..from cumbria uk.......ps would have liked to see a centre support on that piece lol keep up the amazing work ...
I like the design of that face mill. It would be good to see a closeup of the finish it's producing.
17:56 Time to fire the editting dept, missed a cue. :)
Makes you wonder if that would make a good shop surface plate if you scrapped it in. 🤔
do you mean scraped ?
That happens because there is so little of the key that has to take the torque. Also because you have such a large diameter cutter there is a huge torque at the arbour. I learned something new today to consider when setting up a machining operation Thanks
Something to add, For both keys and drive dogs and tangs on morse tape tools
They are not supposed to take load at all and are there as a guide - It is supposed to be on the frictional larger area
The torque in cutters like these is transferred via the arbours compressing against the side of the disk like brake calipers
The fact this happened was probably the arbour vibrated loose
Outstanding ,it’s all I can say
Always got my upvote
I large homemade fly cutter would have been perfect for that job....Love the vids. Cheers.
Great Arbour press bud
This is why you should NEVER use key ways with the slitting saws, I was taught during my apprentership, this will allow the drive arbor to keep turning if the cutter looks up in the job. Only use the key, when using wider slab mills., love your work, and videos
Ótimo trabalho.
That sky hook looks like it works great, and is definitely worth it. We've each only got one body so we need to take care of it!
The sky hook, can you take the two pipes out, the vertical and the slanted arm, takr the wheel atm and flip it up side down, that may put the wheel on the other side..
outstanding!!!
Nice Gas Grill top Adam. LOL That's gonna make a nice piece to the shop Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Nice video
Well you can spin it by hand... You have vise grip shovels instead of hands. Keep up the good work, mr. Bom
The skyhook looks like a good call, you're not getting any younger!
12:50, i'm surprised you arent using a middle support for the length of it, is cast iron stiff enough?
The K&T is unstoppable! :-)
Sweet plate
4:17 cutter rings like a bell and not an entirely unpleasant sound
Happy Independence Day Everyone ,, !!!! Randy!
sehr gut👍👍👍
Sheared arbor key is pretty common with those large slitting cutters. Be extra sure the arbor nut is tight, the drive collars make up a lot of the torque. Been there done that on my 1942 K&T 2HL mill.
Is your vertical head attachment fixed to the column? My universal attachment can be moved in and out on the overarms and rotated 360 in 2 planes. A trade off rigidity vs more setup options.
Thanks.
That's demonstrating, damn it!
Few problems with editing BUT a great video and content, thank you.
I've been looking at the 3 inch facemill from Accusize. It's on the "list"
Ah yes, the "list", I have a few of those, mainly for EDC goodies, but there are a good few tool on there, mostly small modelling type ones, but there are a few bigger shinies too... ;-)
I cant believe it still finished the cut with it like that
Ya I said too much power. That saw you used was perfect, big gullets for chip clearence. That hollow grind and side clearemce wear on the teeth. Nice disk off HSS though . And that's straddle milling, the limits of Y . That fireball fixture plate is just awesome by the way lapping plate, surface plate , very useful thing's go through my head when i see that . (bbQ grill?)can you tell us more about the iron they use in those is it nickle tin dimensional stable
Very Nice, now off to Adventures to see some cooking.
Got plenty of grilling videos over there for ya, and a new steak video coming out today. 👍🏻
HI Adam, why not set up your SkyHook on the right hand side of the K&T table. that way your crank handle will be towards you and swing would leave crank handle towards you . great video, again !
I checked out Fireball Tool, man he’s has some great table top for welding that I’m really interested in. I don’t have a whole lot of room so those would be perfect.
His fixturecplates can be used in a modular fashion. Attach several of them to a frame for a larger area.
What keeps striking me over and over again. . . tools to make tools to make. . . the complexity of civilization becomes very apparent. . . a piece from Poland is made to fit a piece from Japan. . .
Nice!!
Adam - Happy Independence Day
Have you got a new camera, Adam - the image quality is excellent!
I do not use a key on my harbors and a few times my cutter jamed with no slippage and anought to stop my 1/2 HP motor
I was here before I've got notification, LOL....
That saw blade made a nice, pure tone when that key came out. Musical saws, anyone? 😏
Heat expansion of blade? Is there a taper towards the center? That is behind the teeth, towards center? The coefficients of expansion between aluminum and steel I imagine could be a factor. Interesting problem.
that cutter is scary big, like a buzsaw
Another option for the Sky Lift is to mount it to the cart. It would give much more flexibility and mobility. Just add more weight to the cart than you lift.
This currently has more flexibility as he's got the one for use on miller bed or on the lathe tool post for fixed control as opposed to reducing the car's mobility with counter ballast
If the price was in my reach, I would be interested in a plain top for a surface plate in my small shop.
THanks
Question: When you removed the aluminium plate were there a lot of chips in the gully? Could those chips have been picked up by the cutter and that is what caused your jamb up?
You can see the heat coming off the job. Aluminium expands really quick and acted like a disc brake on the blade.
Thanks again...l see...!
I would put the piece down on the 123 bocks on the four corners .Then checked to see if the blocks were tight on all four corners and packed the ones that were not. The I would have put clamps on the four corners. Clamping the piece in a free state would have given a flatter work piece to put in the shaper. Just a suggestion.
Despite being a rather difficult task, it would be interesting to see how you swap the K & T over from vertical to horizontal milling.
I think his parking head is still attached? All that's needed is loosening the 6 head bolts, then slide the head out and around out of the way, then push out the 2 over arms and mount a HRZ arbor support
I would think you could get some downward flex without blocks in the middle as the cutter got to the middle of the plate? Please explain why you wouldn't? Thanks for the great videos.
Now, that's an arbor press.
Wouldn’t you need some center support in order to keep the workpiece from bowing due to the milling stresses? Excellent work as usual Adam, I sure do love watching you work!
There are pros and cons to this
By supporting it you don't remove any bow, you just ensure any bowing is flexing upwards
On a cast iron piece 3/4" think the chance of major bowing is very small so is likely not a worry
The issue with mid length supports is that unless you know the surface is true to begin with you are not going to have contact on all 6 points meaning you may have imbalances
By using 4 you ensure that it will not rock heavily
When lifting with the use of a shackle: the pin goes in the hook. Always!
Why?
pin does not have to be in the hook but in this situation it should be. theatresafe.com.au/most-important-rigging-equipment/
@@pbysome As he has shackle now the load is trying to spread the shackle apart and the only thing holding it together are the threads on the pin. On this light on a load it doesn't matter but good practice you should do it the correct way.
@@hobanm45 it would be the same the other way up, equal and opposite, lifted many tons with shackles and with the pin in the hook it merely slips into the crook so the load is on the threads anyhoo, BTW the threads are designed to take the load and are tested to twice their capacity so fear not.
@@bassplaya69er Great resource. I looked at it in detail. Nice reference!
I looked up the shear strength of a key something like that, it's about a ton for 1/4 inch of width, so with the leverage of that saw about 5:1 that's only 400 lbs at the teeth. Maybe you could weld a hub to the saw to get more width on the key to avoid a repeat failure.
Its two fold, it looks like mild steel in place of key steel which makes it weaker.
Also the majority load is not in the key but in the clamping effect of the arbor over a larger area - a collar on each side would easily double the clamping area