SNS 314 Part 1: Mounting a Multifix Tool Post
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- We begin a modification to a small lathe compound needed in order to properly mount a PeWe Tools Multifix tool post. We'll first machine a proper t-nut and fit to the compound. In part two I'll machine the hold-down stud for the tool post.
Check out Peter's website for more info on his entire selection of the Multifix tool posts and accessories he offers. pewetools.de/
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my favorite you tuber hands down....and I know nothing about lathes or mills...I just enjoy watching Abom work on project's and I always learn something new
One thing to note is that the three pin holes in the bottom locate the top in three degree increments. This allows you to set up for 120 different positions instead of 40. Comes in handy for threading, etc.
I was wondering about that, thanks for the answer.
Hey Adam!
Fantastic demonstration of how to make what is needed to expand tooling compatibility. One item @ 40:36 concerns me. Having had the habit myself (and it took a near miss to cure me) I know it can be difficult to stop. PLEASE! Do NOT work with a toothpick in your mouth!!! My 'near miss' was an event that caused me to suddenly take a quick deep "gasp". Guess where that toothpick went! No, not the lungs (thank God!) but, it DID lodge in my throat and cost an ER visit to extricate it!
Good video as always!
Ken
By the way - what a pleasure to hear Mr. Adam talk metric ;-).
Just love watching Mr. Adam and how he explains everything. One thing that you can't get by watching all films in this channel is Mr. Adam's absolute top notch craftsmanship (his ability to turn things on the lathe is just unbelievable - at least for me :-) ).
Thank you for the great films!
I bought a new aftermarket tool holder for my mini lathe years ago. The gap of the old T nut made it tilt (flex), so i made a thick washer to bridge like everyone said to do it, didn’t workout. I almost returned the holder but i know someone somewhere would some day have to do this and show it on TH-cam. There it is, if i had done it the way i thought to do it in the first place, i would be done and not fighting this old crappy four sided one. Everyone said you will blow out your lathe cross slide. thanks for sharing.
I love the way a spiral fluted tap pulls the chip right out of the hole.
I love how much you care for your tools and equipment. You take care of them with the purpose you use them, not for displaying them. Some people get something to look nice and after do not use them at all.
With this design the toolpost will not be clamped to the base but to the T-nut only.
Basically you made a T-Nut fixed to the Toolpost. Both are fixed only with setscrews to the base.
I'd recommend that you remove 0,3mm from the top of the T-nut and use a plate between the base and the tool post to distribute the forces over the whole area of the base.
It's driving me nuts also. He spoke to this in the prev. video but didn't explain why other than to say it is the recommendation of the tool post maker. I don't see how there is going to be sufficient clamping pressure of the t-nut to the slot.
I liked hearing the pop when you pulled the alignment pin out of the hole. That tells me you machend an excellent fit into the t-nut.
@12:20 your poor vacuum in the corner going "ow... hot... ow ow ow HOT CHIPS OW!"
I found that machining the T-nut .001/.002 below the compound will provide better clamping of the tool post.
That was my immediate thought, too. Seems to me the set screws don't apply anywhere near the force needed to seat the t-nut, and it will come proud of the tool rest when you crank the lock arm.
I’ve seen Adam use this technique before and it baffles me. From an engineering standpoint it would seem to become indeterminate and does not seem at all correct. Similar to your trucks lug studs having a shoulder the nuts bottom down on instead of just clamping the wheel. I came to the comments before finishing the video and it sounds as though their may be some explanation so back to the show.
we used this type tool post at my workplace back in the early eighties...those were Enco brand and made in Switzerland..they were and are the best drop on tool post I have ever used...I tried to get a small one for my home lathe back then but was unable to find one...I no longer have a shop now but it's good to see one can now be had in the size I needed back then...very interesting
That's one BADD ASS Rapid Fire Chip Shooter!!!
Keep Rocking it out!!!
Good video Adam. One thing I would have liked to seen done different. In the 6mm dowel pin holes I would have drilled all the way through the bottom with a smaller OD drill maybe a 1/8" drill. This way in years to come when the dowel gets stuck in the hole you can flip the part over and knock it out with a small pin punch. I learned this the hard way. So now every time I have a blind hole with a dowel pin if possible I always use this method in case the dowel pin breaks or seizes in the hole I can easily get it out from the other side. Keep up the great work I always enjoy your videos.
I was thinking the same thing as I was watching Adam drill the holes.
Great Project! Love to watch you work! BTW, Episode number 314... Time for some Pi e !!!
Awesome work Adam. Glad to see you using the flex arm, I’ve been waiting to see it in action. Keep up the good work.
You could have absolutely tapped the holes faster on the mill but you invested money and are educating the world with the art of machining and i for one appreciate the show of the thousands of ways you can accomplish one job!
Watching your smile when you held that large tap for the tapping arm, I get the same feeling from a lovely clean new tool. It really is a monster that tap! That Flex-Arm is a wonderful device, I'm deeply envious.
Love watching the Flex Arm!
All the good stuff you here about the product and even Peter himself are spot on. I have the same setup on my 80 year old lathe. Love it!
A novel idea just popped into my grey cells, tap the holes from the bottom about 2/3 the thickness then screw the set screws in backwards. The allen wrench is inserted from the top and tightens the screws.
I had the good fortune to use a lathe equipped with one of those tool posts in the first shop I worked in. Absolutely loved it. It was, hands down, the best type of tool post I have ever worked with. The repeatability was outstanding. Unfortunately that was the only one I ever used.
I love the look of joy on your face when you use the flex arm!
don't trust the flex arm too much.
I had to remove a few hundred studs from G.E. gearboxes because the flex-arm didn't tap the holes perpendicular to the joint face close enough to meet the projected positional tolerance.
Nice tap! Smooth operations as usual. 👍
I know it is a lot of money but that Flexarm sure beats the heck out of trying to power tap in the mill. Especially the larger holes. I don't know how many times at work I have had to grind the shank of a tap for a deep through hole. Face mills are great cutters for a good many things but they sure make a mess. We used a tri fold contraption that was shop made to try and contain the chips especially when we were cutting aluminum. Easily made with 1/4 inch plywood and some hinges. Looks like the K and T is trammed in pretty good. Very little on the back cut.
Holy crap that mill moves metal.
Love the multi-fix .I have an import BXA toataly happy with it is from cdco tools. Real nice Parkerize job on it. Your Armstrong holder is my favorite too! Right now I'm making ,It cuts right or left up to a shoulder . Put a bulls horn in the holder the tips are carbide 80* diamonds. and another the M42 bits are oriented on end 5/16" er's 10* tilt forward 10 tilt outward for relief . made the slot for the HSS ones by tilting the mini mill head 10* and orienting the block 10* made a 10* gauge out of a nesquick container with shears little sheetmetal gauges if you have to set the same angle repeatadly wow time saver. my mind goes right to a tilting table or roatery table usually for that kind of thing designing that tool reminded me how fast and important gauges can be. killer show Adam
Loved seeing that ABOM sized 2” tap, amazing seeing the size difference between the smallest and largest that FlexArm can handle!
Great work Adam. Really enjoyed the variety of methods you used on this build. Also liked how you showed all the components of the tool post.
Hooray, doing something in millimetres,, !! we went decimal on the 15th of December 1971 in the UK but we still haven't embraced it fully ,
we seem to be using both Imperial and MM tape measures nobody seems to mind and we will quite happily use either depending on how the tape measure lands on the materials
we love to do things the hard way here, get used to it and then vigorously defend it because we can.. hooray for United Kingdom you'll have to come for a visit one day, or have you been? JHB
It's always good to see your accurate, clean work.
I laughed my ass off when you milled a good inch or so off the top of that block. Adam aint got time for no bandsaw rough cuts. I guess thing look different when you have a beast of a machine like that in you shop. Great video.
When I bought my new 355kg lathe I also included a Pee Wee Toolholder and 12 Holders which made the costs for me as a hobbyist higher but I saw so much Pro's using it that I had to had it ...now over five years later I would do that again it's such a pleasure working with it and they have the biggest collection on sizes on the market from a mini lathe to a big industrial one PeeWee will have the absolute right size in the best quality and their boss Mr Wendland takes his time to talk or mail to every costumer and help him with his questions my friends call him Dr Multifix because nobody knows more about it 😎
Nice shell mill, not all of them will hog and skim as well as that one does. Also I have a bit of 8" parallel envy.
That Damn thing is a Rapid Fire Chip Shooter!!!
@@rockerpat1085 how much buy one in united states .thanks. from Brazil
Great job Adam, really enjoyed watching you machining the parts for the new holder.👍👍. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
I really love that flex arm drilling and tapping machine you have there. It's awesome!
That mill runs without banging, ratteling and shaking inside...would love it in my shop.
I know it's Saturday when I hear the music I hope he never change the music
Always great content Adam, I am learning allot , even after 30 years in Mechanical engineering / Automation design.
I would like to understand how the T nut provides the locking force when the nut and slide are co-planar. I heard the comment that the surface has to be in full contact, but I would think that would be applicable to the post coming through the base material, and not using a T-nut design. I think the co-planar design will loosen over time/use.
Adam to help you from cleaning the whole shop after cutting the metal place some sort of apron that will divert the metal shavings to a single spot for easy clean up.
Wow that flex arm is amazing thanks for sharing your precise work once again!
Always great workmanship from Mr Adam. Great video Adam
Bought my first hand tap today for a minor car fabrication project. Thanks for all of the content, I’ve learned a ton and it’s given me the confidence to give it a shot! It’s going into aluminum so hopefully it’ll play nice lol
Hey Abom79, I just found out why there are 3 dowel pin holes in the base of the holder. That is to give you 120 positions as each dowel pin hole is offset 3 degrees from each other. Awesome idea eh.
When you get around to doing the 2" tap do one with Abom Power and then one with the Flexarm to compare time and effort...
one hell of a tap machine from flex arm
Great video! Going to the next part 2. A well deserved thumbs Up!! And a 5 Star rating if we could give one.
Can’t beat the original ABOM theme song! When anyone else uses it, it’s so wrong.
Making some man glitter! The k&t is running nice.
The chips coming off that cutter kinda looks like the ejection port of a minigun at full send.
Wow the parallel separator is a luxury item 🤣
Really? Do you not use a vice on your mill? I've wanted one of those for ages. It seems to me that almost every job involves parallels falling over sideways not less than 50 times.
@@railgap I am not that clumsy.
My day is going to be a little bit better now. Thank you
I'd be tempted to drill a small vacuum relief hole all the way through the 6mm hole, I can imagine it being really hard to pull the pin out once it gets a bit mucky. Love your videos, a real pleasure to watch. And I'm a retired video editor.
That final pass was frickin' sweet!
Perfect timing. I need to make a tool post stud for my Multifix. It’s good to know about the requirements for the tee nut and base. Thanks!
26:21 ... "Drill Ream" ... we often had orders for parts to be drill reamed when I worked in the shop ..... great procedre! :)
Hoboy is a genius I believe I wish there was more stuff like this like real work instead of all the computers and machines doing it for us
Ain't gonna be taking any 1/4 passes like that on my Bridgeport, no sir. Man that mill is a beast (it doesn't hurt to have a real nice shell mill too)
Adam, I would have done two things differently with the T-nut:
1) I would have made the height of the nut so that it is slightly under the surface and when one tightens the toolpost, it would squeeze the cast iron between the nut and the tool post. Now, if there were any dinglegerries on the underside of the T-groove, they will flatten at some point of time and after that the rigidity is somewhat endangered.
Edit: Oh, I saw Your comment at the very end of the video ... well, there are only compromises available ...
2) I would have made the T-nut a tighter fit in the T-groove widthvise so that it cannot rotate in there. Now the T-nut wiggling mostly nullifies the accuracy of the dovel pin. This might have been intentional though as the toolpost may need some rotational adjustment.
Hi Adam,
I like the idea of the large T nut... Makes a lot of sense..
Take care
Paul,,
Thank you Adam I always love watching your videos I am from South Africa
You don't need to justify using the Flexarm, it's your shop and you can use any tool you want. Besides it's kind of a neat tool.
Adam, Awesome video and great content enjoyed watching and thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
عمل جيد وشغل ممتاز شكرا" يا دكتور ( ابوم 79)❤👍👌👏👏👏👐👐
Boy that k&t looks to be in great shape, cant wait to find myself one.
Sweet tapping machine thanks for your time
What caught my attention most was the striking difference in the surface finish of the dissimilar metals on the decking cut; not that I am surprised, the combo slide is probably a high grade of cast iron, completely different cutting characteristics from the hot role.
That 2" tap is a ABom prop!
dang with that kind of milling who needs a band saw lol, dang and i just thought the shaper only needed a catch basin :)
Doesn't having the top of the t nut flush with the top of the slide compromise the holding force? wouldn't you want the t nut slightly lower than the top of the slide?
Good question!
If that becomes an issue, one could shim under the ledges of the t-slot. But the way it's built now, the tool holder base has a full flat deck to mate to so there's no low spot to wobble into while cutting.
@@Ddabig40mac GENIUS!
@@Ddabig40mac I also think that the bottom of the multifix will "bite" into the surface a bit as it isn't just flat, thus providing better grip on all contact points. I certainly hope this milled surface will hold up as grinding would be way better for a flat surface
@@chas1878 yes you're right and you can see that after about using the PeeWee Toolholder about a year you can see where it was when you put it away 😉
The man loves those precision stones.
Awesome. Thank you for doing metric!
Liking the new apron, very profesh
Man. What it must be like to have THE ABOM make a fixture for your shop. Jealous. Lol.
Come on Adam, you have 2 large shapers but not a surface grinder. You really need to be looking for a nice 24" x 8" surface grinder.
Great job Adam , ENJOYED !! going to part 2 right now ..
Another perfect job by Abom!
Nice cutting machine, excellent machinist!!! 👍
Man, that big end mill you went over the ends of the t-nut with is like a hot knife through butter, sounded like the mill didn't even know it was cutting lol
Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇲🇨
I'm enjoying a Decimal Equivalent chart mentioned recently by Tom Lipton which has fractions, number and letter drill sizes, and metric all in one, in order.
It would allow you to "creep up" on your 6 mm hole. For instance:
A= 0.2340"
15/64= 0.2344"
6 mm= 0.2362"
Maybe not as good as a reamer, but these drills are more likely to be found in a basic US amateur machine shop. The all-in-one DE chart makes it easy to find the next size.
Peter W. Meek hmmm. Does Tom offer these for sale? If he does, I missed it!
@@trevorjarvis3050 They are not made by Tom, a viewer sent him one. toolcostcalc.com/product-page/the-decimal-chart
@@trevorjarvis3050 I found a small online version at bluepointtool.com/fraction-decimal-millimeter-conversion-chart/ but it was too small to enlarge and print. (Not sure how I feel about stealing it, either.) I was really happy to learn about the one for sale at toolcostcalc.com
That RIDGID Droid over in the corner thinks an A10 Warthog just swooped in for the Kill. That thing is hogging the steel.
We need to get you a surface grinder.
My jaw dropped when he said he didn't have one.
Man loves his chamfers so much, he'll add them even if he's going to surface mill them off later.
الله يعطيك العافية
عمل رائع
اتمنى ان تكون لي عدة والات كعدتك مع مخرطة حديثة
كريم الله
شكرا لك
Thankyou Adam. Nice metal!
Sehr gut!! mach weiter so👍👍
"Hey Honey! I'm using the Flex-Arm!" Everyone always wants their significant other to actually see them using the expensive tools they buy!! Hah Hah! Great video!
You are so happy when using flexarm tool xD
I don't understand how you can firmly tighten it if the nut is at the top level of the compound. It would seem like you'd want it a minimum of .003 under. Is there a relief for the ant hill? I realize it's mfg recommendations, I just don't get it.
I figure It can always be ground if needed.
Abom surprised you didnt use the shaper. Either way stil a great video.
Hi Adam
I'm in the process of deciding which PeWe toolpost to fit to my lathe. From an e-mail exchange with Peter Wendlandt I understand there is a size you didn't mention that is AS. This size is between Aa and A being is fitted with a holder length some 10mm longer than that for the Aa. By the way, great video.
These mid roll advertisements really screw with the enjoyment of watching these videos
Nice one.
Man, that cutter goes through that hot-rolled like it's aluminum.
Excellent work Adam. Great tools. Great video. Thanks for sharing tool post info. Thank you for sharing you knowledge and experience.
You may need to fab up a curved shield with a catch bucket under it to keep all those chip from being sent everywhere and to speedup cleanup
Another great Adam you are anrtesan Machinist
Insize are a great product as I see your using the vernia's from them :)