I can't imagine surfing without a land mass. Just the whole concept is eerie and odd. For the most part humans need to see land when surfing. I've dived without land but that's the mindset. I've never surfed without seeing a shoreline. Crazy- nuts!
Excellent video. Peter Mel once described surfing Cortez as a 'rocket ride to the moon' and based on the environmental conditions that must be present and swell direction needed, coupled with the extreme dangers associated with this break, well, Peter's description is 100% spot on. It is probably a good thing that Cortez is 100 miles off the coast from San Diego making it extremely difficult to reach otherwise many unqualified / incapable surfers would meet their doom attempting to surf one of the most dangerous waves on the planet..
Just got back from a tuna trip to Cortez. Water was as flat as a bathtub and beautiful. Half the challenge is getting there, 98 miles from LA harbor and 110 from San Diego. Add to that the "weather" necessary to formulate big waves and it can be a rough ride just to get there. Don't know much about surfing Cortez, but it can produce epic Bluefin, Yellowfin and Yellowtail results when the conditions permit.
Absolutely some of the best biggest rock fish anywhere spots/ with surf..fished it and watched it break at about 40 ft.and as a child it permanently gave me Respect for anyone brave enough to surf it!
I wish they would do stuff like this for other surf spots as well. Living far away from the ocean, I have always wondered what makes waves break the way they do. This was a very interesting video.
th-cam.com/video/Yufb2MgcebM/w-d-xo.html There is this, made by an ocean study institution, about the Nazare wave. It's in portuguese, the graphics are cool and maybe somebody will translate it, if there are comments there asking for it. When I get home, I'll see how youtube translations work (and see if I can do it myself).
yeah, they do for other surf spots, but it's really just for the mechanics of the wave. The swell direction/period that is needed for particular spots like Pipeline, Haleiwa. A wave breaks from the underwater topography changing from deep to shallow over a short amount of area
Well. The lower part of the wave gets slowed down as it slides along land/reef. Because of that the upper part overtakes the lower part and the wave breaks. So the land/reef it breaks on shapes the waves. Ontop of that you got wind and the tides that have profound effect but thats about it. Its actually fairly simple.
Growing up in Minnesota, the closest I ever got to the ocean was watching the beach movies with Annette Funicello's and listening to my older sisters Beach Boys records. I grow up fascinated with the way these guys could conquer the waves. I never moved to the beach and I never learned how to surf, but I still find it fascinating. All this to say, watching the surfers conquer the waves of Cortes Banks is like watching my first surfing movie when I was a mere 8 years old.
I cannot say enough about Chris Dixon's book, "Ghost Wave". At once a history lesson and a look forward at what's to come for those who dare surf the Everest of big wave spots, "Ghost Wave" drops you in the middle of the North Pacific and leaves you hanging onto every word. A must-read for surfers and landlubbers alike!
You guys make me proud for being from Southern California. I used to be impressed by the North Shore where my cousin lives. Then came Jaws in Maui. By that time ,Mavericks was getting notoriety and the competition for the biggest and baddest wave spots was on. I remember my first encounter with big waves in San Diego waters. A huge hurricane off the coast of Baja sent a massive swell. They were 15 to 20 and fast getting bigger. By the time we made the lineup , it was over 30. Never thought it got that big. But that was the beginning of El Nino big wave era. Nazare Portugal was recently discovered and touted as the new 8th wonder of the world, a superdome of giant waves 80 to 100 feet. Well guess what, now comes Cortez Bank to challenge any spot in the world the greatest and biggest waves. It already stands out as the fastest big in the world. By the way, didn't Mike Parsons recently set a record there at 78 feet?
@@godisbollocks Funny that he's a german guy. As a german, i think you have to be extra driven to surf big waves, since germany has knee high slop at best.
Been gong out to Cortez since 1970 to take divers and fishermen out there. Seen many days of giant surf, but never surfed it. Back in the say I thought I was pretty good, but when you see these waves, you turn chicken fast. Check out Johnson's Lee at Santa Rosa Island sometime.... Amazing!
You do realize that surfing the great lakes is a real tangible thing that happens, you may be walking through 3ft of snow or more during the peak of the season, Cold as all hell thats for sure, but basically as stated a land locked ocean. I actually find it awesome, the great lakes get it really good at times, probably more often then we realize unless you live there and know. I personally find it amazing and have high respect of the surfers there coming from the gulf coast where I surf.
Andygra111 - Thanks for the kudos on my book. It's a surreal, scary as hell and fascinating place. I also want to go back more than anywhere on earth I've ever been. --- Chris Dixon
As fishermen we stayed away from the 'Rock' in the 70s and we just plain didn't go 100 miles out to Cortes Bank with big waves in the weather forecast.
That's right, wear a black wetsuit out in the middle of nowhere so you are really difficult to find after you wipe out!! I would think Day Glo Orange would be a preferable colour!! Amazing waves and surfing conditions, props to the brave ones that ride them!!
These "mechanics" type videos of these surf spots are fascinating, but they could be much better. I would love see videos of divers capturing the underwater topography of these spots too, I've searched for these kinds of things on Nazare, Teahupoo, but there's nothing really, that would be really fascinating to see, combined with the detail and narration described in these videos.
It's a miles of motoring in a boat, it would take hours to get there in something that can even make it, and yeah end up in a weird current and your off to French Polynesia, also the sharks here are supposed to be everywhere
Yes, but Nazaré has waves over 100 feet and the waves seem mushy but they are also the fastest wave in the world. Even with special 350 hp jet often fail to catch the waves!
I’ve wondered if an old sailing ship coming in towards land ever found themselves surfing down a huge wave in the middle of nowhere. There may be some old shipwrecks down there. Also how shallow does it get ?
I love surfing even though I have a family and can't do it as much as I would like, but gotta be honest. This appeals to me ZERO! I would be so creeped out that it would be impossible to enjoy it..
Maybe on the inland Lakes East of Superior, but I challenge anyone to surf the late Fall early Winter waves of Superior before it freezes over and shipping ceases for the season. Depending on where you try it, and if you are real lucky, they might find your body in late Spring the next year some 200 miles from the location you dared to challenge the Great Lake they call Gitche Gumee. As the song says,"She never gives up her dead when the gales of November come early!"
I know u surfline guys know your shite,I was wondering about all the currents because its a 100 miles out ,u answered it there s a lot of current going in all directions,I like how u put it though u can't surf a fifty footer with a twenty foot wave coming right at u from the front,hello....is this on.wow.THANKS cool stuff and I'm complaining at 54 I'm having to learn big bowls and pools and to carve I really don't have that much to learn,hah hah hah,later.
I'd be too worried about sea monsters out there. I heard there are Krakan - giant squid with a huge beak. Eat great whites for breakfast....No thanks, I'll stick with my inflatable wading pool....
I can't imagine surfing without a land mass. Just the whole concept is eerie and odd. For the most part humans need to see land when surfing. I've dived without land but that's the mindset. I've never surfed without seeing a shoreline. Crazy- nuts!
Agreed Jim! Agreed! Hope to see you out there one day! 🤙
Its all about how much dawg you got. If you need to see land. Don’t leave it.
You use the reef the boils and stuff like that the channel
Excellent video. Peter Mel once described surfing Cortez as a 'rocket ride to the moon' and based on the environmental conditions that must be present and swell direction needed, coupled with the extreme dangers associated with this break, well, Peter's description is 100% spot on. It is probably a good thing that Cortez is 100 miles off the coast from San Diego making it extremely difficult to reach otherwise many unqualified / incapable surfers would meet their doom attempting to surf one of the most dangerous waves on the planet..
Sean was so interesting, intelligent and soft-spoken. Legend, RIP.
Just got back from a tuna trip to Cortez. Water was as flat as a bathtub and beautiful. Half the challenge is getting there, 98 miles from LA harbor and 110 from San Diego. Add to that the "weather" necessary to formulate big waves and it can be a rough ride just to get there. Don't know much about surfing Cortez, but it can produce epic Bluefin, Yellowfin and Yellowtail results when the conditions permit.
Absolutely some of the best biggest rock fish anywhere spots/ with surf..fished it and watched it break at about 40 ft.and as a child it permanently gave me Respect for anyone brave enough to surf it!
I wish they would do stuff like this for other surf spots as well. Living far away from the ocean, I have always wondered what makes waves break the way they do. This was a very interesting video.
William Brown It’s been done. I’ve watched a ton of them.
th-cam.com/video/MjDxz8gTKV4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Yufb2MgcebM/w-d-xo.html There is this, made by an ocean study institution, about the Nazare wave. It's in portuguese, the graphics are cool and maybe somebody will translate it, if there are comments there asking for it. When I get home, I'll see how youtube translations work (and see if I can do it myself).
Agreed Bruddah! 🤙
yeah, they do for other surf spots, but it's really just for the mechanics of the wave. The swell direction/period that is needed for particular spots like Pipeline, Haleiwa. A wave breaks from the underwater topography changing from deep to shallow over a short amount of area
Well. The lower part of the wave gets slowed down as it slides along land/reef. Because of that the upper part overtakes the lower part and the wave breaks. So the land/reef it breaks on shapes the waves.
Ontop of that you got wind and the tides that have profound effect but thats about it. Its actually fairly simple.
Growing up in Minnesota, the closest I ever got to the ocean was watching the beach movies with Annette Funicello's and listening to my older sisters Beach Boys records. I grow up fascinated with the way these guys could conquer the waves. I never moved to the beach and I never learned how to surf, but I still find it fascinating. All this to say, watching the surfers conquer the waves of Cortes Banks is like watching my first surfing movie when I was a mere 8 years old.
I cannot say enough about Chris Dixon's book, "Ghost Wave". At once a history lesson and a look forward at what's to come for those who dare surf the Everest of big wave spots, "Ghost Wave" drops you in the middle of the North Pacific and leaves you hanging onto every word. A must-read for surfers and landlubbers alike!
Reading it now. Cant put it down.
I'm not a big wave surfer, but I'd love to go see that place sometime. It really looks like the ultimate big wave spot on Earth.
I remember hearing stories about this place from fishermen in the 70's. Thought it was a sea story!
Navy ! man 1983 captain Bull told us, one day surfers are gonna ride that place!! i said not me
Ever heard of nazare? You should. You really should.
I used to fish out there for cow bluefin tuna. It's as gnarly a place as these guys say.
@@AS-gn9jt Nazare is on shore not off shore, so not sure why it matters here, totally different monster.
@@AS-gn9jt this is more nuts to me, Nazareth is a giant pile of mush to me this mavericks and Tahiti are the best
You guys make me proud for being from Southern California. I used to be impressed by the North Shore where my cousin lives. Then came Jaws in Maui. By that time ,Mavericks was getting notoriety and the competition for the biggest and baddest wave spots was on.
I remember my first encounter with big waves in San Diego waters. A huge hurricane off the coast of Baja sent a massive swell. They were 15 to 20 and fast getting bigger. By the time we made the lineup , it was over 30. Never thought it got that big. But that was the beginning of El Nino big wave era.
Nazare Portugal was recently discovered and touted as the new 8th wonder of the world, a superdome of giant waves 80 to 100 feet. Well guess what, now comes Cortez Bank to challenge any spot in the world the greatest and biggest waves. It already stands out as the fastest big in the world. By the way, didn't Mike Parsons recently set a record there at 78 feet?
The record is up to 86 feet now, I think. A German guy at Nazare.
@@godisbollocks Funny that he's a german guy. As a german, i think you have to be extra driven to surf big waves, since germany has knee high slop at best.
@@LeRouxshnikov you guys have the best river wave in the world, you can surf without a car in Berlin
RIP sean..thanks you for all your gifts
Many years ago I used to fish out there for really big tuna and there are also plenty of big ass sharks there also. ie:Great whites.
Thank you Sean for everything. R.I.P.
Been gong out to Cortez since 1970 to take divers and fishermen out there. Seen many days of giant surf, but never surfed it. Back in the say I thought I was pretty good, but when you see these waves, you turn chicken fast. Check out Johnson's Lee at Santa Rosa Island sometime.... Amazing!
this is really far offshore in a boat. nowhere to run if the weather gets bad.
Chris Dixon has done a mighty job of putting together ghost wave.
A great read. Not to be missed.
You do realize that surfing the great lakes is a real tangible thing that happens, you may be walking through 3ft of snow or more during the peak of the season, Cold as all hell thats for sure, but basically as stated a land locked ocean. I actually find it awesome, the great lakes get it really good at times, probably more often then we realize unless you live there and know. I personally find it amazing and have high respect of the surfers there coming from the gulf coast where I surf.
Florida makes a surfer like Kelly slater for a reason
one of the 7 wonders of the world.... well deserved for this surfing spot.
I'm lucky enough to live about an hour from Mavericks. January-April is an awesome time to catch guys riding it when it's at its gnarliest
Andygra111 - Thanks for the kudos on my book. It's a surreal, scary as hell and fascinating place. I also want to go back more than anywhere on earth I've ever been. --- Chris Dixon
Dove and surfed the bank early 70's, ab diver
Any trips out there must be a nightmare of lurking monsters.
Wow I’ve lived in San Diego my whole life and I’ve never heard of Cortez Bank. I’ve never heard anyone ever even mention it before this video
only reason i know is from kelly slaters video game
As fishermen we stayed away from the 'Rock' in the 70s and we just plain didn't go 100 miles out to Cortes Bank with big waves in the weather forecast.
Man catching yellowtail in 20 feet of water has to be silly
That's right, wear a black wetsuit out in the middle of nowhere so you are really difficult to find after you wipe out!! I would think Day Glo Orange would be a preferable colour!!
Amazing waves and surfing conditions, props to the brave ones that ride them!!
ty surfline this material is exactly what I wanted to watch. Documentary films are good and all but too much hyperbole.
Just amazing watching these waves.
Bodie used to kill Cortes.... DAMN YOU JOHNNY UTAH!!!!!!!!
I don’t even surf really, but I feel like I need to visit this place before I die
Don’t go there if youve never surfed, you might die :)
did any one notice the Shark at 3:00 ?
These "mechanics" type videos of these surf spots are fascinating, but they could be much better. I would love see videos of divers capturing the underwater topography of these spots too, I've searched for these kinds of things on Nazare, Teahupoo, but there's nothing really, that would be really fascinating to see, combined with the detail and narration described in these videos.
What about surfing it on a small swell. What’s the smallest possible swell for it to be surfable? The shallowest part is only 6ft deep. Creepy.
It's a miles of motoring in a boat, it would take hours to get there in something that can even make it, and yeah end up in a weird current and your off to French Polynesia, also the sharks here are supposed to be everywhere
@@coreygolpheneeegreat whites have bumped into the guys out there every time they’re there. Sea lions are out there too
Fukin love this planet
Fuck yea
Fcken oath
You always here about this fucking west bowl!! is there a wave on this planet that has a good south or east bowl?
@ReconSurfer one of the best surf movies out there. same with riding giants. both very good movies :)
Rip Sean Collins.
and when the waves are small it is an awesome scuba diving location.
its still hard to believe this place might get bigger waves than Nazare´ , well it potentially could but it would be rare.
Very interesting Thanks for posting!
I'm curious if the biggest south swells will break here?
Just call it the Devil's Bank.
rip curl should invest some money in making the reef more shallow, imagine an 80ft barrel like a shore break.
Nice job guys!
Exceptional video 5 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Much respect for these waves. They were the biggest waves in the world before they started surfing in Nazare.
Yes, but Nazaré has waves over 100 feet and the waves seem mushy but they are also the fastest wave in the world. Even with special 350 hp jet often fail to catch the waves!
anything that worries Mike Parsons, absolutely fucking terrifies me
I’ve wondered if an old sailing ship coming in towards land ever found themselves surfing down a huge wave in the middle of nowhere. There may be some old shipwrecks down there. Also how shallow does it get ?
It’s 60 feet shallow at the highest spot
6 feet
Rumor has it that the reef was found by a military ship that got stuck on The Reef, so the US military then charted it
Is his nickname "Snips" as in Mike Parsnips?
Fascinating!
@DrHarryDickman for sure! i just bought it on blu ray. real cool movie.
so this is why this spot will and probably has gotten waves bigger than Nazare´
I lived in San Diego for so long an never surfed there:( maybe ill go one day.
RIP Sean Collins
great video
una manera de sentirse vivo y fundirse con la Naturaleza con uno de los Cuatro Elementos Que Rico
gay
Beyond extraordinary!!
Did anyone hit that during the last record cyclone storm California just had?
yes, footage on youtube
Man your funny! Keep it up the world needs you :Peace bro
nazare canyon is the place :)
rock kelp and big fish....FUCK THAT!
what's the difference between topography and bathymetry ?
bathymetry is underwater topo is on land
At 6:36 what is that at the top of the wave? Is it a board?
Surfing Mt Everest!! And a special thanks to King Neptune!!!
R.I.P. Sean Collins
Eight years, I was surfin the bank when you were still a jingle in your daddies jeans. Before the jet ski.
What brand potato was this filmed with?
Being Mr. Negative, you better not get hurt out there.
I love surfing even though I have a family and can't do it as much as I would like, but gotta be honest. This appeals to me ZERO! I would be so creeped out that it would be impossible to enjoy it..
Big tuna out there too.
Nunca hay que decir nunca jamás. Cortes Bank no es el spot de olas más grande que existe siempre.
North Shore Maui are the spots. Aloha
What is it? I understand the concept but not the name. pythinatry? pithinatary? Underwater orographic lift.
Bathymetry is the word. Cheers
I got lucky searching "underwater topography terms". I was curious also
Maybe on the inland Lakes East of Superior, but I challenge anyone to surf the late Fall early Winter waves of Superior before it freezes over and shipping ceases for the season. Depending on where you try it, and if you are real lucky, they might find your body in late Spring the next year some 200 miles from the location you dared to challenge the Great Lake they call Gitche Gumee. As the song says,"She never gives up her dead when the gales of November come early!"
people surf it all the time. I've surfed Gitche Gumee. Mother Superior is not to be reckoned with, but it's plenty surfable...
@stellahella i think its a shark
@yahoodybgoogleman Thats just how long he has been surfing Cortes..
and big fish yeah
360p?
Sort of like some kind quantum wave theory writ large in the ocean -- thanx.
Nope I'm not gonna do it. 30 years surfing and no desire to even think about it.
I thought this was a financial video
thumbs up if youre watching in 2013!
most excellent,very danger-russs, love 2 go
I am not a suffer but great info.
I know u surfline guys know your shite,I was wondering about all the currents because its a 100 miles out ,u answered it there s a lot of current going in all directions,I like how u put it though u can't surf a fifty footer with a twenty foot wave coming right at u from the front,hello....is this on.wow.THANKS cool stuff and I'm complaining at 54 I'm having to learn big bowls and pools and to carve I really don't have that much to learn,hah hah hah,later.
I'd be too worried about sea monsters out there. I heard there are Krakan - giant squid with a huge beak. Eat great whites for breakfast....No thanks, I'll stick with my inflatable wading pool....
snakes like to cool off in baby pools
You guys got more Huevos than me !
PUD - I agree - RIP Sean Collins.
What is the fishing like?
Awesome that all of the footage of Cortes was filmed in 1902. Would hate to be able to see everything clearly.
If any big wave surfers see this comment, could you tell me what you consider to be the most dangerous place to surf is and why?
wow!!!
Sharks say .......... send more surfers !
Dude that's like head-high.
Nazare?
How deep it is?
when I Google pixels, I hope to develop
world peace
and share respect
savage
@stellahella Kelp
Jesus 6 feet, I see why they fly fish for makos out here
I can only imagine the flies that are tied for a mako.