Big Wave Surfer Greg Long on his Near-Death Experience: Sitdowns
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
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Greg Long is one of the best big wave surfers in the world, but two years ago, he suffered a "non-fatal drowning" while surfing the infamous Cortes Bank. The archival footage of Long's rescue team bringing him back to life is harrowing enough on its own, but beating death wasn't Long's last battle. With two years of recovery and personal struggles behind him, Long reflects on his near-death experience and getting back in the ocean to mount an inspiring comeback.
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what greg doesnt talk about is that he tried to pull his flotation c02 vest and it wouldnt work. he tried again and no luck. he tried one last time then he blacked out. he is insanely lucky to be alive. his friends literally dove into the water and pulled him up by his leash, saving his life.
Yet another great man to come from the surfing world.
What an honest and inspiring recount of your experience. Absolute respect to you!
We're glad your here with us brother! !!
love the way this bloke handles himself in and out of the water. inspirational
he projects a beautiful energy and message. what in god's name is wrong with you people who want to focus on something so meaningless as saying "you know" when he is saying something meaningful. record yourself sometime in a conversation and see how often you say it or something like it. i used to read legal transcript and lawyers do the same thing constantly. focus one what's meaningful instead of some silly thing you can criticize to no good purpose
hes got a big squashed nose..wtf!
jquest43 that comes from being a little too intimate with a reef!
Totally agree. He’s definitely and ‘Old Soul.’ This guy is so awesome. He really seems like a good person and he has wisdom clearly. He shows his wisdom through normal conversations instead of when someone is trying to talk intelligently.
belletollz you are so right. I have met him and he is awesome. He collected extra life-saving equipment from the state beaches and deliver them to Mexican lifeguards who have virtually nothing to work with
belletollz you know, maybe if you knew, you would know, but to you, you dont know because the known is unknown, utill then just know, you know.
3:05 one of the best paddle in waves ever!
These big wave surfers are some of the greatests athletes in the world and some of the craziest people in the world!!! I surf and Im scared on a ten foot wave. HAHAHA.
Let me tell you a secret. I've surfed 8m waves before (biggest I could get in my home town, still want to hit dungeons in Cape Town.) but a 4m wave still scares me. It is less of a case of the surf NOT scaring you, and more a case of going out and surfing anyway, even though you are scared. Eventually, the amount of fear you have to deal with DOES fade, but it never goes away. One harrowing incident can jar you quite badly, and the trick is to get back out as soon as possible, without putting yourself in the position to just get another such incident before you have recovered from the previous one. I've found the quickest way to get used to bigger swell is when an unusually large set comes through, washes you around to the point where you decide you want to get out of there, but then NOT getting out of there, and rather making sure you get another wave. I don't know how I would deal with a non-fatal drowning incident, but I have to say that the fact that Greg Long forced himself to go surf again, even though he did it for the wrong reasons and lied about his actual comfort level, made that he could still surf big waves today. If he waited up too long, he might have never got back into it at all. What would have been a better approach to it would have been to openly confess that he is scared out of his mind, but that he is going to go out and do it anyway, since he refuses to let his fear control his actions.
yo 10 foot waves are huge lmao
Ryan Nieds Gee Ryan, just how big does it get in Texas. Kook!
Mike Farar what the fuck are you saying shut the fuck up
Greg is a really cool human being right up there with Laird as a legend surfer and inspirational to all brothers and sisters just a great person all good energy to you Greg...
so much RESPECT!!
Nobody mentions McNamara who dropped in on him. And went straight. Greg would’ve easily made it around the corner of that one.
Real surfers know how much of a fuckin kook macnamara is. That should have been a highlighted point. Shoulder donkey comes in from left field, goes straight into Greg's line and jumps off
Well said man such good vibes about it you can tell he grew from this and truly learned. 🙏🏾
Awesome, hope you're all good Greg
I've been surfing for over 20 years now, surfed all over the world in challenging conditions.
I have never understood and i still don't understand how you can surf such big waves, wipe out and stay alive. I've experienced near drowning situiations in 6-8 foot surf (which is my limit).
6-8 is biggest ive been in. 8ft is terrifying.
Terrifying, I remember meeting Jay Moriarity when I was 16, he told me to shred till I was dead, he passed 6 months later. Mother Nature is a powerful one.
And I'm Kelly slater
Smh sure you did
bullshit
glad you are well kid...
Big wave big balls ! Sheesh nothing but respect for this dude.
Greg was snaked by Garrett McNamara who is a Wave Jet kook
What's the name of the song at the beginning ?
Just an amazing story told of the bare knuckle boxing world. Thank you
Keep charging brother!
Buen surfer de olas grandes saludos de costa rica🏄♂️
Cortez bank the gnarliest spot there is when you add all the factors. Can get 80ft waves in fully open ocean. Water and wave moves faster than any other big wave, you have big waves breaking over that land piece from a bunch of different angles at the same time which makes the rescue part even harder and makes it dangerous for boats out there even
So I have a question... can you punch the guy who snakes you in the face?
Been here during my time in surfing.
I thoughtI afew times I wasn't coming up but when I actually had the feeling of rolling over like a ragdoll twice in one day and the last one thought that this is it,I lost heaps of confidence in myself.
But friends always remind me to never lose the feeling of surfing and that the comradery of this way of life should be forever.
🤙🤙🤙
respect!
Tough
hey!!!! you are great man!!!!
Big wave surfer Greg Long reflects on his near-death experience and getting back in the ocean to mount an inspiring comeback.
Check out our interview with Kelly Slater: bit.ly/10knOmL
Watch "Surfing Peru with Balaram Stack" - bit.ly/1rAPpcp
You are an amazing Man
Great story.
chills
....if you’ve never experienced the “green room” you will not understand his passion!...for the “non-watermen” out there it is when you get “tubed”. God how I miss it!(I’m “high & dry” living in Alabama.)
Greg Long, Jimmy Page, Reinhold Messner different situations same inspiration
Cool guy.
Balls of Steel.
"you know" x100000
I would've noticed the phrase "you know" alot less if i would've read this comment after this video! you know!?
+Darcy Mahady Damn, all I hear now is him saying 'y'know'
Garrett Redford I didn't notice it till after I watched and read this comment, I was so absorbed in his story..... I thought he expressed himself well.
He's talking about a near-death experience on an interview; cut him some slack, dumbfuck. Are you so poised that your crutch words don't come up when you talk about your near-death experiences? I realize the comment is 2 years old but it's still on top...
actually i dont know
Why was he coughing blood? Do your lungs blow blood vessels in a situation like that or something.
from impact and pressure tissues and vessels can tear and rupture
No.... I don't know....
...this is what I need to do!
Fear keeps u alive.
Someone tell Greg that he didn't "literally" pick up the pieces of his life.
Chris Traeger would beg to differ
SunsetScotty - 😆 😂 🤣
Reminded me of Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam
If you wach the nationel geograpy channels vodeo he says how eveyrthing went wen he fell, and i strongly advice people to wacht it
jvdv thank you!
he literally says "ya know" 68 times!!!!!! counted
+Andy Jensen I counted 57... Are you sure? lol
I’ve heard it 100 times in the past 45 seconds..
Ya know ?
I see you poaching, Vice.
YOU KNOW??????
Just like the State Park only on steroids. LOL.
"you know you just suffer"
video: *greg hoisting a $55,000 check for winning*
yeah, suffer.
He’s speaking to something deeper in him, nothing external
@@jakeruth4603 yeah must be so hard, boohoo
@@t_c5266 to quote him directly, “Steps are in the fatherhood of dreams, but he does not understand for he himself has seen the light.” Hell yeah man!
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Ace Frehley
ThatsSoNathan hey Nathan I've met him and he's awesome. He's the guy who would stop and help you change a flat tire. Everyone knows they can count on him. He's just a good guy
So rad that macnamara basically just dropped in on him, went straight then jumped off. Totally his fault 100%.
He's the only big wave surfer I've seen consistently get shacked paddling into Mavericks among other big wave spots. (Seems like a couple of those waves were big Puerto and I've seen videos of other surfers in the green room when they make the wave). Where was that wipeout?