I happened to get a brand new dentist's chair for free. It's very heavy, but I'm building a sim cockpit around it. Since I need to mount it on a motion platform, it has to be strong. Being able to change the seating height and angle at the push of a button is just awesome!
i diy´t my own aluminum profile rig too . different to the most i only used 3030 and 6030 instead of 4040 / 8040 , so a bit smaler diameter tubes but even they are sturdy enough, and way cheaper i spend about 160 € for tubes and about 60€ for hardware . i use it for over a year now and it still holds up .
@@din3832 most on my rig is 30/60 and it still hold up almost a year later . even with a 8mn csl dd and heavy 200kg loadcell brake. AND its on casters cause i have to move it away when not use
I'm glad to see the price point mentioned. I feared it would be a lot more actually, though it is a different aluminum extrusion supplier I'm familiar with (custom Voron 2.4 3D printer build). What led me here is the desire to make a combination racing/flight simpit and just not being exactly sure where to start with my design. But I have the skills, I have the knowledge, I have the tools, I have the motivation, and I have the hobbyist license of Fusion 360 so let's go!
Thank you for this concept, I’ve been on the fence on dropping $1500 on a flight simpit, but seeing this I might make it from 8020 to keep adjustability and flexibility as I add more panels/displays
Great work! The more I go down this rabbit hole of DIY 8020 the more I lean towards buying a pre-built from a supplier. The pricing is so high now for material, you can find basic rigs for 3-400 USD now.
About the nuts: there are some available which can be put in the slots from above. They will just anker when turned 90 degrees to the right. So the can placed even if the strut is already closed on both ends :) No serious „step ahead thinking“ required - at least at this point 😁
I must commend your use of bracing profiles! Nearly all plans available and 99% of available profile kits use the inverted “T” shape and stupidly big profiles in an incredibly simple solution to the problem. The use of smaller profiles and appropriate bracing makes for a more sophisticated solution. Think ladder frame truck chassis vs Maserati bird cake.
I built one trying to beat the price of a simlabs p1 and think i ended up spending about 600 bucks, but i did get a seperate triple monitor stand built too at that 600 dollar price😎
Standard profile and standard t-nuts with the spring loaded ball can be inserted (rolled) into any point of the slot after you've built a rig. No idea what these nuts are but they're not conducive to building and modifying a rig as you go.
Funny that you say that because I only figured this out after building my rig. It has come in handy for lots of minor modifications. I guess the non-standard t-nuts are more cost efficient,. but we are only talking about a few bucks for the full quantity for the rig here.
I have all the tools in my garage to build one however every place I find that sells 80/20 in the US is so expensive I am better off just buying a pre built.
If you know anyone that works in manufacturing you should ask if they use it and if their job sells it used. I got mine at work (it was a bench) for $38.
I'm actually building a sim rig, I'm using wooden roofing trusses, I am kind of "copying" the design of the Simetik K line. and add a flat thick metal bar for lateral reinforcement. for each side I have a wheel mount bought from Trak Racer. It's simple and solid
God bless America.. to build this same rig where i live buying the supplies locally would cost me literally 10x what it costs you, it would end up being twice as expensive as the most expensive pre-built sim rig from trakracer
I cant believe i watched this video just to hear the words, more expandability. More customizability. And more adjustability reiterated about 10 times all saying the same thing. Nifty.
So you hit on the major drawback of 80/20 style profiles. You need to think ahead, or take things apart to add in more fasteners. I wish the popular profiles had spring nuts similar to the likes of Unistrut/Powerstrut and B-Line struts. I have actually been looking at doing a Unistrut chassis, the stuff is tough as nails, and ugly as sin.
I just built a ventilation and cooling enclosure for my PS5 out of small 20/20 profile 20x40x40 cm with some excessive bracing, it cost about £150 however prices for everything are fucked right now soooooo?
I spent $345 on a similar rig with more stuff from RigMetal. Believe what you want, 8020 cockpits are the way to go if you're on a budget and you don't wanna skimp a bunch on quality.
Replying to old vid, I know but I just bought my rigmetal rig (ordered Friday, arrived yesterday, Monday, wow!) and have been searching these old diy vids hoping to find someone who has leaned back the wheelbase uprights a few degrees as seen on some of the pricier 8020 rigs available. Not much, maybe 11°, would be enough. The design of the joint must retain the uprights mounting position on top, rather than on the sides of the main frame rails for proper fitment of wheelplate. Will sandwiching this joint between 2 flat plates per side be enough or would I need small corner brackets of 79° and 101° to maintain any strength in this area?
Shaun, I really like what you did here, but I'm still wanting to build a Ricmotec RS-1, WITH added adjustability. I believe there may be a way to design more into the RS-1 design, so that's my preference. I also am thinking about a hybrid version where I incorporate some aluminum extrusion into the RS-1 design, thereby keeping the very pleasing aesthetics of the RS-1 while at the same time having more adjustability. I'd like to go with 3 large monitors, at least 46" each. I was wondering what size monitors you used? I started Sim Racing just about 10 years ago, and due to many factors just had to put it on the back burner, but now I'm looking to once again move forward. My G27 is ready and raring to go, and so am I. Thanks for all you've done to help me get ed-u-ma-cated! LOL!
How did this chassis hold up? According to what I’m looking up 1010 is extremely weak. Like weakest on the weight charts. I’m 6 foot, 210lbs and run my DD at around 14, 15nm of strength. Kinda seems like this wouldn’t hold up to me or my DD.
Not sure what his weighs but mine wooden rig is a tank! However I think the weight of my rig actually aids in its rigidity. I also can report very little flex in my wood rig which is most peoples concern. Although that may be due to the design choices I made…by accident of course 😅
I used 30/30 series profile originally throughout my rig,…. That was designed for television use and non load cell brakes. When I converted to monitor and load cell/ DD I changed my uprights to 30/30/60(an L shaped profile) along with more bracing. I can report that it is performing well 18 months after construction. All the prebuilt rigs use a simple/ basic design that is at best functional, to compensate for this they use unnecessarily large profiles. The cost/ weight of materials is similar.
Your bracket choices have SEVERELY compromised your rig stability 45 degree angles held in place with nothing but the friction between bracket+bolt+profile! Your joints should always but up against each other and be held in position against each other thus allowing NO wiggle room. To ensure the long term stability of your rig always use purpose built brackets at the points of most stress. This is not to say that you shouldn’t use unintended parts! On the contrary the joy of self build rigs is the unique solutions that a person comes up with!
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
I happened to get a brand new dentist's chair for free. It's very heavy, but I'm building a sim cockpit around it. Since I need to mount it on a motion platform, it has to be strong. Being able to change the seating height and angle at the push of a button is just awesome!
i diy´t my own aluminum profile rig too . different to the most i only used 3030 and 6030 instead of 4040 / 8040 , so a bit smaler diameter tubes but even they are sturdy enough, and way cheaper
i spend about 160 € for tubes and about 60€ for hardware . i use it for over a year now and it still holds up .
Nice to hear this since i am considering my build with 3030, i want cheaper and lighter since i might have to move it!
@@din3832 most on my rig is 30/60 and it still hold up almost a year later . even with a 8mn csl dd and heavy 200kg loadcell brake. AND its on casters cause i have to move it away when not use
Nice seeing you make a new rig. Always enjoy these types of videos for ideas.
I'm glad to see the price point mentioned. I feared it would be a lot more actually, though it is a different aluminum extrusion supplier I'm familiar with (custom Voron 2.4 3D printer build). What led me here is the desire to make a combination racing/flight simpit and just not being exactly sure where to start with my design. But I have the skills, I have the knowledge, I have the tools, I have the motivation, and I have the hobbyist license of Fusion 360 so let's go!
Any progress?
Just watched this again and I do like your boxed in frame design!
Thank you for this concept, I’ve been on the fence on dropping $1500 on a flight simpit, but seeing this I might make it from 8020 to keep adjustability and flexibility as I add more panels/displays
Great video. Covers everything you need to know.
Great work! The more I go down this rabbit hole of DIY 8020 the more I lean towards buying a pre-built from a supplier. The pricing is so high now for material, you can find basic rigs for 3-400 USD now.
What are some of the entry level rigs you’ve found that look good?
The big price comes from the dual track frame rail pieces. You cut it to a 1x1 and it’s much cheaper. $70 for 1x2 rail 72” or $30 1x1 72”
Great video Sean. Thank you.
About the nuts: there are some available which can be put in the slots from above. They will just anker when turned 90 degrees to the right. So the can placed even if the strut is already closed on both ends :)
No serious „step ahead thinking“ required - at least at this point 😁
Forget "3.0", this build is worthy of the name, Death Mobile 3000!!! 😁
I must commend your use of bracing profiles! Nearly all plans available and 99% of available profile kits use the inverted “T” shape and stupidly big profiles in an incredibly simple solution to the problem. The use of smaller profiles and appropriate bracing makes for a more sophisticated solution. Think ladder frame truck chassis vs Maserati bird cake.
Awesome video. This stuff seems to be pretty hard to get where I live but may look into it.
I built one trying to beat the price of a simlabs p1 and think i ended up spending about 600 bucks, but i did get a seperate triple monitor stand built too at that 600 dollar price😎
it's so painful with shipping costs to the middle east, shipping costs more than the rig price. This will help a lot thank you.
Nice work
Awesome thank you for the video😊
Nice job Shaun, keep up the great You Tubes
Standard profile and standard t-nuts with the spring loaded ball can be inserted (rolled) into any point of the slot after you've built a rig.
No idea what these nuts are but they're not conducive to building and modifying a rig as you go.
Funny that you say that because I only figured this out after building my rig. It has come in handy for lots of minor modifications. I guess the non-standard t-nuts are more cost efficient,. but we are only talking about a few bucks for the full quantity for the rig here.
Great video, thank you
As usual your the man!
The pricing you got for the extrusion was for 1010. Generally the prebuilts are using 40 (40mm) series tubing or 15 series (1.5")
I noticed that as well. What size did he actually use?
By the looks of it 2020 / 2040
I have all the tools in my garage to build one however every place I find that sells 80/20 in the US is so expensive I am better off just buying a pre built.
If you know anyone that works in manufacturing you should ask if they use it and if their job sells it used. I got mine at work (it was a bench) for $38.
I would love to see a motion Sim setup using these 8020s!
A DIY motion system!
Nice video
I'm actually building a sim rig, I'm using wooden roofing trusses, I am kind of "copying" the design of the Simetik K line. and add a flat thick metal bar for lateral reinforcement. for each side
I have a wheel mount bought from Trak Racer. It's simple and solid
God bless America.. to build this same rig where i live buying the supplies locally would cost me literally 10x what it costs you, it would end up being twice as expensive as the most expensive pre-built sim rig from trakracer
Any luck with less expensive parts?
If you have oil we can deliver you "freedom" and throw in a cockpit for free. Have your people call our people and let's do business.
@@Lurch-11😂
I cant believe i watched this video just to hear the words, more expandability. More customizability. And more adjustability reiterated about 10 times all saying the same thing. Nifty.
Where do you live?
8020 is reasonable, but connectors and nuts are the real cost
So you hit on the major drawback of 80/20 style profiles. You need to think ahead, or take things apart to add in more fasteners. I wish the popular profiles had spring nuts similar to the likes of Unistrut/Powerstrut and B-Line struts. I have actually been looking at doing a Unistrut chassis, the stuff is tough as nails, and ugly as sin.
How much aluminium did you end up using lenght wise?
I'm just gonna say it. $300? I don't believe that for a second.
I just built a ventilation and cooling enclosure for my PS5 out of small 20/20 profile 20x40x40 cm with some excessive bracing, it cost about £150 however prices for everything are fucked right now soooooo?
I spent $345 on a similar rig with more stuff from RigMetal. Believe what you want, 8020 cockpits are the way to go if you're on a budget and you don't wanna skimp a bunch on quality.
Replying to old vid, I know but I just bought my rigmetal rig (ordered Friday, arrived yesterday, Monday, wow!) and have been searching these old diy vids hoping to find someone who has leaned back the wheelbase uprights a few degrees as seen on some of the pricier 8020 rigs available. Not much, maybe 11°, would be enough. The design of the joint must retain the uprights mounting position on top, rather than on the sides of the main frame rails for proper fitment of wheelplate. Will sandwiching this joint between 2 flat plates per side be enough or would I need small corner brackets of 79° and 101° to maintain any strength in this area?
Do you have any idea how many kilos has only the frame without chair, wheel and pedals.
I clicked on the link to see the rig design but I don't see parts list. Am I missing something?
How would you mount a base like a Moza R5/R9 that has screws on the bottom?
Do you have the cut list and hardware
I know just how expensive 80/20 extrusion is. How and where did you buy that much of the stuff?
cheers
Shaun,
I really like what you did here, but I'm still wanting to build a Ricmotec RS-1, WITH added adjustability. I believe there may be a way to design more into the RS-1 design, so that's my preference. I also am thinking about a hybrid version where I incorporate some aluminum extrusion into the RS-1 design, thereby keeping the very pleasing aesthetics of the RS-1 while at the same time having more adjustability. I'd like to go with 3 large monitors, at least 46" each. I was wondering what size monitors you used?
I started Sim Racing just about 10 years ago, and due to many factors just had to put it on the back burner, but now I'm looking to once again move forward. My G27 is ready and raring to go, and so am I. Thanks for all you've done to help me get ed-u-ma-cated! LOL!
How did this chassis hold up? According to what I’m looking up 1010 is extremely weak. Like weakest on the weight charts. I’m 6 foot, 210lbs and run my DD at around 14, 15nm of strength. Kinda seems like this wouldn’t hold up to me or my DD.
I think this is 2020, not 1010.
Do you have a link or info of where you purchased the 80/20?
I originally used KJN Aluminium in the U.K. But ther are quite a few in Europe, not sure about USA
Shaun, what's the weight difference between your wood DIY and this 80/20 rig?
Not sure what his weighs but mine wooden rig is a tank! However I think the weight of my rig actually aids in its rigidity. I also can report very little flex in my wood rig which is most peoples concern. Although that may be due to the design choices I made…by accident of course 😅
nice video man but i have a question dose 20/40 or 20/20 work or it will not support the weight
I used 30/30 series profile originally throughout my rig,…. That was designed for television use and non load cell brakes. When I converted to monitor and load cell/ DD I changed my uprights to 30/30/60(an L shaped profile) along with more bracing. I can report that it is performing well 18 months after construction. All the prebuilt rigs use a simple/ basic design that is at best functional, to compensate for this they use unnecessarily large profiles. The cost/ weight of materials is similar.
@@benhodkinson6467 thanks bro much appreciate it
please have the requirements in text format plz
Bird cage,, obviously
Your bracket choices have SEVERELY compromised your rig stability 45 degree angles held in place with nothing but the friction between bracket+bolt+profile! Your joints should always but up against each other and be held in position against each other thus allowing NO wiggle room. To ensure the long term stability of your rig always use purpose built brackets at the points of most stress. This is not to say that you shouldn’t use unintended parts! On the contrary the joy of self build rigs is the unique solutions that a person comes up with!
Where's Jess?
recline is not conducive to proper posture ~ which is important when driving
"Usually affordable"
During about 9 frames of the +$1000 GT Omega rig that's since dropped to nearly $500 as the company is clearly bleeding money.
Way too complicated build....
This might be the easiest damn thing possible. It’s building legos for adults. You must be mentally handicapped.