I was having trouble finding a licenced electrician who has been doing electrical work for 50 years, so I posted a youtube video touching an wire in my house and they all showed up in the comments. How convenient!
I updated my house with a 200 amp service about 15 years ago. Also took down the mast & had underground run. Best thing I ever did!! Those guys from the power company ran 75' underground & had everything hooked up in about 45 minutes. Yes, I am a retired electrician & have been for almost 10 years. Sure is nice when you can do all these things yourself. Only thing the inspector said was he wanted to see the 2 grounding rods daisy chained & "nice job!!"
I did this to my house yesterday! Though not an electrician I'm a master carpenter and have experience building homes since I was in my late teens so I'm very comfortable doing my own work on my house and seeing how as I'm the homeowner I can pull the permits myself. There's nothing that a semi skilled mechanically inclined person can not do by themselves these days seeing how all information is in the palm of our hands including step by step instructions and video, then to top it off there's always the "experts" in the comment section that are so helpful and "friendly"!
I used to say the same thing with all this technology how can some one mess up but some how someway poeple find a way to do some ragged shart most of the time.
Agreed. I don't mind paying for an electrician, but the quotes these days are between $6000-8000 for this job. This isn't thousands of dollars worth of labor. This is a 5 hour job. Even at $50 an hour, that's $250 in labor. Call it $500 in labor because the company needs to make double what they're paying. Looking at $10/ft for service entry wire, so no more than $500 there for a very long run. No more than $100 for the service entrance and pipe. Call it $150 for the whole grounding setup. This puts the total generously at $1250. I could even see paying $2000-2500 for the job just for convenience, but the estimates of close to $8000 are pure greed.
@@MiniDevilDF exactly..if you pay attention, double and triple check your connections,where they tie into, follow the directions step by step any homeowner can do this. Toughest part is brute forcing the thick cables from the service conduit into the meter box and attaching them.
I liked Scott. Is he still with This Old House? Pro-tip: If you're using a maul or hammer to pound that ground rod in it is always a good idea to put the clamp on first... when pounding you may "mushroom" the head of the rod and it will be impossible to get that clamp on after that.
It's funny how they skipped all the headaches of getting a permit and waiting for the utility company to do their job. Not to mention the nosy neighbor peeking though the window ready to complain. :)
After 40+ years, the producers of TOH have connections to municipalities. Towns love being featured as it creates interest in people visiting the towns or living there. Having just 50 professionals/trades peep/business owners move in is a huge lifeline to a municipality. Not just that, people making improvements on their homes, raises the prop value all around.
@@7xr1e20ln8 Hi and Hello. I gather people for a good cause: I wanna provide people with Links leading to bad or toxic people. Mobber, Racists, Sexists, Bullies, more. I got the Links and i need help with reporting them. TH-cam is in a bad state and i think you heard of that. Many complain about it, its strike-system and its CEO: Susan. But... I mean... complaining about the State of the world is nice and dandy, but... how about acting? Doing something? So i made a Wiki where i store Links for all to use. Yeah, unorthodox, i know, but whatever. Its my Try to help. You can at least pre-emptive 'block user' regarding the Racists and all those, but you can also do one thing more and report them. I know this was random and also overly summarized, but think about it and consider. You can make a difference. I tried to explain it as good as possible, but the Wiki will tell and show you more, i guess. What do you think about all this? I mean, its a good cause, improving the internet and the world, and it costs no money, just time. Nice or not? I'm sure this comment didnt made it all clear, but point is, i wanna act and help others to act, not just complain. If somethings not clear, ask Questions; that normally helps with confusion.
4:56 Scott, NO CRITISIM, just a tip: As I was an apprentice 15 years ago, I learned: Always make a little loop of wire. 1. In case you cut too short you can still use it. 2. In case it breaks, burns (bad contac), you cut it and don´t need a new wire. 3. It is easier to connect (not so tight). Greetings from german
I believe this video is for a basic understanding of what needs to happen. Every scenario is different and local codes would require specific materials. But per NEC, this does give you a basic understanding.
If you own it, it's yours to fix or destroy. Risks are involved with each decision. Remember laws are just rules written on paper to control the minds and actions of ppl who believe they have more control over your decision-making than you yourself.
@@frenchmontana961 salty much? I've worked on my own house along with the main service being hot. Knowledge is powerful if you use it correctly. No fires here but you sound a little burnt In my opinion. To each their own I guess. If you're uneducated in the field then don't take chances. It's YOUR DECISION.
When driving the ground rod into the ground, you can use a hammer drill in the hammer only setting. It might help you if there is something hard to go through in the ground.
@@URBANENGINEER Only as long as there is nothing hard like a rock down their. There have been a couple of times I hit something hard that even the hammer drill wouldn't go through. If I run into something like that, I'll pull it out and ry again a few inches over. But before I try again, I'll actually grind a sharp point on the end so if it does hit something, it has a sharp end to help it drive through whatever is down their. 95% of the time it works and goes right through whatever the hard thing is.
remember to dig a hole around where you will drive the ground rod so you can completely bury the rod, preventing possibly hitting it with a lawn mower or weed trimmer
+brian phillips Not all ground wire to rod clamps are certified for burial. Thus an inspector can fail the install if the wrong clamp is used. Even if legal to bury the rod the local inspector can have his own rules too thus you may want his input.
+brian phillips After Katrina "stormers" descended here and all wanted to "go over the local inspectors heads". Thus they just did not get permits, they joined the crowd who wanted exceptions and had to wait in line for months. ie maybe they wanted to use 14 awg wire in a city that bans that size wire for a decade already. Or maybe they want to use weird breaker brands that are common in LA or New Jersey but are not used locally. Thus going over the persons head goes to a lay person and you get to plea at a city "fight with the inspectors meeting" in weeks or a few months in which the city has a consultant that will find more of you stuff wrong. ie you ticked them off and they will mess with you more Thus if you want to teach the inspector your way you just burn up your labor costs. In the bury the ground rod clamp the inspector here might just give in and let you pay the labor and cost when the utility adds another rod with its rod above ground. They just tack this cost on install bill as an added change. ie it is not just the inspectors, but what does the Utility require? After the Katrina event we had Utility guys for phone and cable from Canada; a Power guys from all over the South East. There are places where when Copper was high idiots stole the copper ground wires and the building owner just stuck a loose piece of wire in the ground, instead of finding the rod when it was buried. Thus when restoring power if the wire is off and they cannot find the rod quickly they will add another rod. In my neighborhood this just meant that some folks had to wait another week to get their meter area acceptable if the area was too cluttered of the wire ground gone. They actually would cut the wires at the transformer too on houses that they declared not ready for power again. One county in a rural area has a code guy who wants the wired AC smoke alarm on ground faults breakers. That is nuts. His goofy reasoning is "safety items" should be on GFI breakers. Here in smaller towns there are only one single code inspector person and after a storm he get saturated. In good hearted free labor like Habitat for H. workers they would constantly get rotations of folks and all wanted to change the designs of the starter houses. ie Guy from Michigan wanted a basement, but the house would float up. Or Minn guy wanted ice dams for the roofs, or LA guys wanted to use weird breakers and have no AC units at all or use swamp coolers.
you bury the rod after inspection not before inspectors have rules to follow laid out in the law. city rules must or equal or better than state. inspectors ideas of what should be or not be must follow those rules other than that his opinion is nothing. 14 gauge wire is not large enough for a main box ground it is large enough for a bonding ground on a 20 amp device. this is why 12/2 wg often uses a 14 gauge wire for it's bare ground. many romex cables have a bare ground one size smaller than the other conductors. inspectors here will crawl under your house and through your attic as well as look to make sure all metal boxes are bonded, closets and storage are lighted, main panels are grounded with 2- 4 gauge copper conductors to separate rods 6 feet apart. ground clamps in this area all meet code if not they can be easily changed and reinspected before burial. gfi receptacles are used where water is possibly present, i.e. outdoor receptacles, bathroom receptacles, receptacles near a kitchen sink. bathroom lighting exhaust fans, etc... are usually wired in series with the gfi receptacle so touching a switch to turn on an exhaust fan with wet hands is covered
In Greece we have the option for 1 phase or 3 phases power supply starting from 40 amps (we have 230-400V 50Hz and we do not require so many amps). All phases are the same, 120 degrees opposite to each other (no split phase). The most common grounding system is the TN, the grounding wire from the rods will be connected to a common bar along with neutral in the meter box although there are separate wires for neutral and ground coming from the building. All meters are equipped with automatic circuit breakers with delay so only if the main fuses of your installation fail they will trip. Also the electric meters are the property of "DEDDIE" / "HEDNO" (Hellenic Electricity Distribution Network Operator) . They own the network and are responsible for measuring the meters no matter in which power company you belong to. Power companies use this network to provide electricity). Nobody has the authority to intervene to a meter except the hedno
They are stamped on the end that you hammer on. The inspector looks for the stamp before you drive it flush with the ground. If he can't find the stamp he will assume you couldn't drive it snt deeper so you cut off the end thinking the inspector wouldn't know that you hadn't driven in the full ,,8 feet. But you wouldn't know about that because because you really didn't know the reason for the stamp in the ground rod.
I have been an electrician for 40 years and watched This Old House since the Bob Villa days. Scott Caron's workmanship and practices are excellent. The last electrician on the show Alan Galant, was an OSHA violation waiting to happen. I recall in one episode, Galant on top of an extension ladder cutting and working on live service wires with no OSHA required personal protective equipment...not even safety glasses. Following Galant's electrical practices could get someone a stiff OSHA fine or even killed.It's a good thing he was replaced.
I remember that show. He explained to the host that he was on a fiberglass ladder and and host was on an aluminum ladder so it would be dangerous for the host to splice onto live lines from the pole. Also dont recommend twisting wires together with pliers. Try twisting three #12's solid copper together with pliers. I think this guy should have used "NOALOK" on the aluminum connections to prevent corrosion.
Is it not enough to compliment? To lambast a previous electrician does nothing other than make yourself feel better. Gratification at the cost of others, based uopn a few videos…is sad. Sad indeed.
I like to curl the SEC 360 degrees, making a curly-cue. It’s more work but has 3 advantages. 1 it looks better. 2, it offers a bit a slack if needed. 3 it provides a drip loop is for some reason a seal fails and water does enter the cables, it won’t enter the house. Aluminum connections are supposed to have an anti-corrosion paste added, by the way. I didn’t see that performed.
The NEC in the USA does not require paste if the connector is rated AL-CU. But I have always used the paste myself. I hate aluminum wire period. I only use copper on new and retrofit installations.
Really like the way Scott Caron explains and do his jobs for the show, actually I decided to get my electrician’s license after seeing some of This Old House videos
Tus explicaciones sobre instalaciones electricas son de mucha ayuda para mi que tengo 5 meses aprendiendo electricidad saludos desde la ciudad de Mexico
Little water and you can actually driving all the way by hand no hammer needed, didn't believe it until I did it myself, but where I work we do use the big hammer drills made for it
@@SparkyonWheelz : no, some electrical inspectors are corrupt > ( so you used water to ease the rod down? well that's going to co$t you! ) The ground is going to get wet from rain ,it has no bearing no grounding . The NEC states that the rod must be driven to 8 to 10 inches below surfacing if I remember correctly!
I always like the idea of the masthead being needed for code compliance..while I’m looking at the conduit up the pole feeding my house is completely open and vertical for all the rainfall to fill up conduit feeding my house but no worries my conduit will be dry!!!!
The code differences between localities is insane. For example in my area you have to take that ground wire straight to the panel and bond the ground and neut in the panel. The utility won't allow it to go through the meter socket.
LOL . I can't believe I didn't see this before now. This would be one electrician I wouldn't want on my house . I seen so many violations in that install it makes me wonder it the guys house burnt down a year later.
@@nyrbn I don’t think so, especially using NM. That’s why we bond at the panel. How are you supposed to bond a ground on the panel when it’s in the meter? I think, unless I’m misunderstanding this.
Your work was amazing, here in Brazil that type of work is very complicate and expensive because use copper cable, cement pole and all parts are imbedded inside the wall. Sorry my write I am learning English.
I remember back in the day when I was in L.A trade tech In early 90s Didn't know nothing about electrical trying to be an apprentice it's the best trade chase you goal never give up the sky is the limit
I wonder how much does it cost to get this upgrade done...this electrician is skillful and did his job very neatly, I would not mind hire him to do mine :). I hate peoples doing sloppy job!
yeah, guy didn't talk about the difference between aluminum service wires and aluminum household wiring, nor about antioxidant pastes. Antioxidant goes on at 4:51, but it's for less than a second and he doesn't explain what he's doing. I had to ask my electrician about this when inspecting a subpanel run which had thick aluminum conductors. Concerned me that the insurance company would have a fit, but no... apparently this is standard practice.
Rigid for service entrance. Uni-struts to strap 1.5 or 2.0 in rigid pipe. 2/0 gauge copper service entrance. Service entrance head has to be at 3 feet above roof. And so on and so on. That's California code. .... Residential type I no longer do. I could be mistaken. I mostly work in commercial and industrial projects
So where would you ground the main panel if you did not have water main close enough to connect it to? Would you run it back to the meter socket to ground there?
Arturo from Tucson they make a ground rod driver that attaches to an sds max hammer drill. Hard to say if it will make it thru your soil but may be worth a shot.
for the 200A service? no. based on some charts, the "best" you could get would be 165A, but that's with special ratings/housing. but always check with local building codes/references.
I don't know so much about the meters w/the electric co. but my average water bill is between $25 & $35. a month in the summer but this winter w/ in one month it was nearly $900,oo & no I did not have any leaks as in fact if so my water ran that much my septic tank would have been backed up & my yard would have been evidence as definitely it would have been a swamp. But just a couple months before they found my meter was leaking out by the road & they came out & fixed it as it was on their side of responsibility. Now all of a sudden they were billing me months later telling me I used over 19,000 gallons of water in one month in the winter which I don't have a pool or anything requires a lot of water. I had them replace my meter since then & my water bill is now back to normal. I now take regular readings off my meter to keep a check on it. I don't trust any big business as it is the more they get is the more they want until we become enslaved to them. Just the same is our taxes keep going up, up and away. I am a good man to have on hand I am Dave the handyman home repair guy out of St. Louis Mo. May God bless & only put your trust in him!
I did not see the ground wire going to the breaker panel, pleaaaase explain. Maybe I missed it. If this is where you are bonding then where you attach your ground inside the breaker panel? Or you are using both bus bars inside the breaker panel by bonding it again? Or your are using a separate ground rod connection altogether in a separate part of the house? Thank you for your prompt reply.
Good Point. Maybe He sealed from the inside in order to push his sealant against the meter pan which would act as a stop for proper filling of that hole, But without a follow-up video we will never know! lol
it's not required on current applications as the alloy of the aluminum is different/improved from the old days. however I don't see how it would negatively affect anything should you choose to apply it.
@@electricaf365 Funny coming back after 3 years of learning… I still don’t know what that cable is, but it appears to be some kind of huge romex, which I’ve not seen outside this video :)
You can do it this way only if the panel is within 2ft of the meter base and you have the ground and neutral bonded inside it, an important code item he didn't explain, also check with the local codes and standards because every utility company I've dealt with want the top of the meter base at 6ft, and no PVC and aluminum out the top to the weatherhead. Also anytime using aluminum it's really important to use NO-OX on the connections. He basically shows the cheapest way to get by but not really against code.
It's a 3W system. The distance to main panel is irrelevant. You nonfat the first means of disconnection. It depends also on the AHJ if you have to go 4W to the main panel AND install a meter-main panel.
There was no need for the expansion coupling. With the top only having a weatherhead it will move up and down as it expands and contracts. Throw the sludge hammer away and get a ground rod driver before you bust your finger.
+TheSeattlegreen yeah it was way to low, I'm guessing it was just for quick demonstration. And by rights the mast should have been a 2" steel mast as well
Just one question. Would it be more safe to do the inside connections before installing the meter outside ??? I just think, i my line of work as an Electrician in the EU I dont trust anyone other than myself, and who knows if some one just hock the wires back on from the utillity line outside because of a misunderstanding. Just a thought :) Love the show. keep it up guys.
Ground rods are for voltage regulation - not for fault current. They are a part of the grounding electrode system. The equipment grounding conductor is for fault current return to source (the neutral). Also, if your electrician wants to run a PVC riser - just don't. And with PVC straps? It is allowed in some places, but there is no way in hell I would EVER hang a PVC riser on PVC straps.
It comes down to budget some people don't want to pay for premium because they can't see or understand that EMT or Ridgid at better material than PVC or copper is a better conductor that withstand oxidation way better than aluminum and has less resistance or the contractor wants to maximize profits....my opinion only
@@javierhernandez215 so the material they using to upgrade is cheap? Cooper instead of aluminum? Ridgid instead of PVC. What wrong with PVC. Doing my homework in understand. Will be upgrading this year
@@Bear_83 on an overhead like that using standard PVC isn’t the best option, that pipe is what holds the stress of the overhead lines from the utility. I’d use sch80 pvc if I had to, and steel 2 hole straps. 90% of the time those are run in IMC or rigid though
Nice to see Robertson screws being used :) Curious why the wires are aluminium? When I was answering home insurance questions one of them had to do with aluminium wiring in the house and how it can be a fire hazard. Granted the wires in the house a much smaller.
Usually Aluminum is used for service conductors and sub panel feeds, perfectly safe for this use. Copper is too costly. Aluminum is not allowed for branch wiring and can be a fire hazard.
The insurance companies are interested in older AL branch circuit conductors that have never been mitigated. New properly installed AL service entrance conductors aren't as much a concern.
Aluminum small-conductor branch circuit wiring is technically still legal insofar as I know, but it requires a lot of double-checking for device compatability and is very expensive to splice with copper conductors. There's nothing inherently dangerous about aluminum conductors. The danger with small aluminum conductors is in the terminations or AL/CU splices, and where the conductors are undersized for the required ampacity (on average, aluminum conductors need to be one size larger than copper conductors for the same current carrying capacity)
I would love to see these guys doing this in Puerto Rico where the houses are made of armed concrete. These jobs are so easy in these plastic houses lol.
The neutral wire carries any imbalance current back to the "pole" (center-tap of your stepdown transformer). If the electrical load in your home is perfectly balanced (same current flowing on the black and red hot wires), no current flows on the neutral.
In 220v only countries yes. The above is true in the USA if you ONLY HAVE 220V CIRCUITS. The USA NEC defines the neutral as a "current carrying conductor", the reason for this is that in a USA single phase system the current must return to its source in order for the device that is connected to it to work. Each 120V circuit is a connection from one phase to neutral. Not phase to phase. Current goes out on the phase and returns on the neutral. Voltage from the neutral to ground is determined by the resistance of the neutral. If sized right voltage on the neutral will be less than .1 to 2v. In a "balanced" 3ph system the vector sum of the neutral is zero, then there will be no current on the neutral. I have been a licensed Journeyman Electrician for over 50 years in Memphis Tennessee USA.
My thoughts are where are your required GEC and bonding jumpers inside to the MDP? Why no disconnect before sending the SE unfused through flammable material?
1:55, we had a problem with our 200 amp rated service entrance (SE) wire when it kept popping the main 200 amp breaker. We found out the problem was the SE wire. It was ALUMINUM! We solved the problem when we changed to COPPER wire. That was way back in the mid 1970's. The main breaker had never popped since then.
weird story. Upstream wire does not cause the downstream breaker to trip with overcurrent. Every new house in this town has aluminum SE wire. It just needs to be a bit thicker than copper to be rated for the same amperage. And, of course, the connectors have to be compatible with the expansion coefficient of aluminum, as well as be corrosion protected with chemistry.
This relative to where you live and isn't universal. There is no rule in the NEC about the distance an unfused service cable can go into a building. It just says "...as close as practical..." or some such. The utility or the local inspector often write their own rules for both meter height and "back-to-back" service length.
"230.91 Location. The service overcun'ent device shall be an integral part of the service disconnecting means or shall be located immediately adjacent thereto."
Also check out NEC 230.70 (A) (1) The service disconnecting means SHALL be installed at a readily accessible location either outside or inside of a building or structure nearest the point of entrance.
Lucky you didn't drill the hole saw into wires at the panel in the basement. A better method would have been to drill a pilot hole into the basement and then drill the larger hole from the inside. Otherwise good video.
He was using existing hole he just enlarged, pretty sure hes safe there chief. Come on man thats what the thing you wanna dig on this about???!!! do better
@@electricaf365 lmao. In my area, Chicago burbs, the pedestal sits on the ground and is about two feet tall, and the meter sits on top of the pedestal.
I was having trouble finding a licenced electrician who has been doing electrical work for 50 years, so I posted a youtube video touching an wire in my house and they all showed up in the comments. How convenient!
Lol
LMAO
Right? Amazing how the internet gets all the professionals interested 👏 🤣
I would have thought a good psychiatrist and the ambulance would have arrived first.
This made me laugh a lot more than it should have 🤣😂🤣😂
I updated my house with a 200 amp service about 15 years ago. Also took down the mast & had underground run. Best thing I ever did!! Those guys from the power company ran 75' underground & had everything hooked up in about 45 minutes. Yes, I am a retired electrician & have been for almost 10 years. Sure is nice when you can do all these things yourself. Only thing the inspector said was he wanted to see the 2 grounding rods daisy chained & "nice job!!"
@m rapacki Yup. When I still have all 10 fingers and 2 eyes after a complex home project, all is good.
Just learned today the “great deal” I got on a foreclosed property had 50A service to a 100A panel!
Was it expensive to bury the wire?
No, just rented a Ditch Witch.
I did this to my house yesterday! Though not an electrician I'm a master carpenter and have experience building homes since I was in my late teens so I'm very comfortable doing my own work on my house and seeing how as I'm the homeowner I can pull the permits myself. There's nothing that a semi skilled mechanically inclined person can not do by themselves these days seeing how all information is in the palm of our hands including step by step instructions and video, then to top it off there's always the "experts" in the comment section that are so helpful and "friendly"!
I used to say the same thing with all this technology how can some one mess up but some how someway poeple find a way to do some ragged shart most of the time.
Agreed. I don't mind paying for an electrician, but the quotes these days are between $6000-8000 for this job. This isn't thousands of dollars worth of labor. This is a 5 hour job. Even at $50 an hour, that's $250 in labor. Call it $500 in labor because the company needs to make double what they're paying. Looking at $10/ft for service entry wire, so no more than $500 there for a very long run. No more than $100 for the service entrance and pipe. Call it $150 for the whole grounding setup. This puts the total generously at $1250. I could even see paying $2000-2500 for the job just for convenience, but the estimates of close to $8000 are pure greed.
@@MiniDevilDF exactly..if you pay attention, double and triple check your connections,where they tie into, follow the directions step by step any homeowner can do this. Toughest part is brute forcing the thick cables from the service conduit into the meter box and attaching them.
I really like this guy.
He is a good explainer.
Farmer Dave I
Farmer Dave said
lol
Now is heath.
@@xianli6488 Heath is awesome!
30 seconds in and the facial expression of the homeowner looks like his family is being held hostage by the production team.
True!
His words were "so there's no power to the house?"
@@loturzelrestaurant Stop spamming
@@BenCos2018 I wouldnt call it spamming, for obvious reasons.
You... surely can tell those reasons, yeah? I mean, they're obvious after all?
@@loturzelrestaurant It's in every comment thread tbh
It classes as spam lol
I like your patient, pleasant voice during this simple, straight forward tutorial. Thanks
I really do appreciate the details like which parts are your responsibility vs the utility. Nice!
Man, I'll tell ya, LOVE ASK THIS OLD HOUSE! GREATEST TV SHOW ON TV! CAN'T GET ANY BETTER.
I upgraded my panel on my home. Turned out great and I have a lot more slots for new circuits now.
I liked Scott. Is he still with This Old House?
Pro-tip: If you're using a maul or hammer to pound that ground rod in it is always a good idea to put the clamp on first... when pounding you may "mushroom" the head of the rod and it will be impossible to get that clamp on after that.
Wise move indeed but an angle grinder helps to cut away or grind away the smashed head
He's been gone for years - posted that his contract expired and that's that.
@@oldtwinsna8347 thanks!
"I'll finish it off with a sledgehammer!" - pulls out the smallest sledgehammer known to man...
That caught me off guard, too!
We call that a single Jack. Don’t know what it’s called on the East Coast. Apparently a sledgehammer. LOL
😂😂😂
Lump hammer
Ben Hawkins 😆 😂🤣
It's funny how they skipped all the headaches of getting a permit and waiting for the utility company to do their job. Not to mention the nosy neighbor peeking though the window ready to complain. :)
lol!
know all about that
Victor Rodriguez bey
After 40+ years, the producers of TOH have connections to municipalities. Towns love being featured as it creates interest in people visiting the towns or living there. Having just 50 professionals/trades peep/business owners move in is a huge lifeline to a municipality. Not just that, people making improvements on their homes, raises the prop value all around.
My electrician cut the wires himself
Electrician: ill make homeowner my apprentice
But it has to be only performed by licensed homeowner
@@7xr1e20ln8 Registered homeowner 😊
Hopefully electrician gave homeowner a discount for helping lol
@@7xr1e20ln8 Hi and Hello.
I gather people for a good cause:
I wanna provide people with Links leading to bad or toxic people.
Mobber, Racists, Sexists, Bullies, more. I got the Links and i
need help with reporting them.
TH-cam is in a bad state and i think you heard of that.
Many complain about it, its strike-system and its CEO: Susan.
But... I mean... complaining about the State of the world is nice
and dandy, but... how about acting? Doing something?
So i made a Wiki where i store Links for all to use. Yeah, unorthodox, i
know, but whatever. Its my Try to help.
You can at least pre-emptive 'block user' regarding the
Racists and all those, but you can also
do one thing more and report them.
I know this was random and also overly summarized, but
think about it and consider. You can make a difference.
I tried to explain it as good as possible, but the Wiki will tell and show
you more, i guess.
What do you think about all this? I mean, its a good cause,
improving the internet and the world, and it costs no money, just time.
Nice or not?
I'm sure this comment didnt made it all clear, but point is, i wanna
act and help others to act, not just complain. If somethings not clear,
ask Questions; that normally helps with confusion.
@@loturzelrestaurant text wall much lmao
One of the best videos on this topic that I've ever seen
4:56 Scott, NO CRITISIM, just a tip:
As I was an apprentice 15 years ago, I learned: Always make a little loop of wire.
1. In case you cut too short you can still use it.
2. In case it breaks, burns (bad contac), you cut it and don´t need a new wire.
3. It is easier to connect (not so tight).
Greetings from german
good luck making a loop with that size of wire inside that box.
@@Flightstar
I said a LITTLE Loop.
Greetings from germany
He more less means leave some slack, it can easily be done.
I sure hope he read your tips! If not he will lose his license!
@@Albrecht8000 that gauge of wire won’t loop in that space.
I believe this video is for a basic understanding of what needs to happen. Every scenario is different and local codes would require specific materials. But per NEC, this does give you a basic understanding.
even not per NEC, this video gives a good understanding
Great title "How to Upgrade an electric meter..." then the first line is "...this should not be done by a homeowner".
Lol, I was about to go out and do it today... I guess I'll have to find a different project for today
Bullshit, i did my own
If you own it, it's yours to fix or destroy. Risks are involved with each decision. Remember laws are just rules written on paper to control the minds and actions of ppl who believe they have more control over your decision-making than you yourself.
@@TheTubejunky ok dude, come back when you burn your house down
@@frenchmontana961 salty much? I've worked on my own house along with the main service being hot. Knowledge is powerful if you use it correctly. No fires here but you sound a little burnt In my opinion. To each their own I guess. If you're uneducated in the field then don't take chances. It's YOUR DECISION.
So glad that Maddox got a good honest job
When driving the ground rod into the ground, you can use a hammer drill in the hammer only setting. It might help you if there is something hard to go through in the ground.
I just got to lay flat one out of the 2 required today cause a landscape stone lol the hammer drill was jus mushrooming the head
The hammer drill is effortless. Let the tool do all the work and it just slides down 8’ into the ground. It’s great!!
@@URBANENGINEER Only as long as there is nothing hard like a rock down their. There have been a couple of times I hit something hard that even the hammer drill wouldn't go through. If I run into something like that, I'll pull it out and ry again a few inches over. But before I try again, I'll actually grind a sharp point on the end so if it does hit something, it has a sharp end to help it drive through whatever is down their. 95% of the time it works and goes right through whatever the hard thing is.
@@KevinBenecke good idea my friend
As long as it not rock all you need is two water bottles.
Hats off to the Electricians out there....you have my respect!
remember to dig a hole around where you will drive the ground rod so you can completely bury the rod, preventing possibly hitting it with a lawn mower or weed trimmer
I agree ain't that a bitch especially the lawnmower☹️
+brian phillips Not all ground wire to rod clamps are certified for burial. Thus an inspector can fail the install if the wrong clamp is used. Even if legal to bury the rod the local inspector can have his own rules too thus you may want his input.
3beltwesty i have been dealing with inspectors for over 30 years if they have their own rules and i disagree i go over their head
+brian phillips After Katrina "stormers" descended here and all wanted to "go over the local inspectors heads". Thus they just did not get permits, they joined the crowd who wanted exceptions and had to wait in line for months. ie maybe they wanted to use 14 awg wire in a city that bans that size wire for a decade already. Or maybe they want to use weird breaker brands that are common in LA or New Jersey but are not used locally.
Thus going over the persons head goes to a lay person and you get to plea at a city "fight with the inspectors meeting" in weeks or a few months in which the city has a consultant that will find more of you stuff wrong. ie you ticked them off and they will mess with you more
Thus if you want to teach the inspector your way you just burn up your labor costs. In the bury the ground rod clamp the inspector here might just give in and let you pay the labor and cost when the utility adds another rod with its rod above ground. They just tack this cost on install bill as an added change.
ie it is not just the inspectors, but what does the Utility require? After the Katrina event we had Utility guys for phone and cable from Canada; a Power guys from all over the South East.
There are places where when Copper was high idiots stole the copper ground wires and the building owner just stuck a loose piece of wire in the ground, instead of finding the rod when it was buried. Thus when restoring power if the wire is off and they cannot find the rod quickly they will add another rod. In my neighborhood this just meant that some folks had to wait another week to get their meter area acceptable if the area was too cluttered of the wire ground gone. They actually would cut the wires at the transformer too on houses that they declared not ready for power again.
One county in a rural area has a code guy who wants the wired AC smoke alarm on ground faults breakers. That is nuts. His goofy reasoning is "safety items" should be on GFI breakers.
Here in smaller towns there are only one single code inspector person and after a storm he get saturated.
In good hearted free labor like Habitat for H. workers they would constantly get rotations of folks and all wanted to change the designs of the starter houses. ie Guy from Michigan wanted a basement, but the house would float up. Or Minn guy wanted ice dams for the roofs, or LA guys wanted to use weird breakers and have no AC units at all or use swamp coolers.
you bury the rod after inspection not before inspectors have rules to follow laid out in the law. city rules must or equal or better than state. inspectors ideas of what should be or not be must follow those rules other than that his opinion is nothing. 14 gauge wire is not large enough for a main box ground it is large enough for a bonding ground on a 20 amp device. this is why 12/2 wg often uses a 14 gauge wire for it's bare ground. many romex cables have a bare ground one size smaller than the other conductors. inspectors here will crawl under your house and through your attic as well as look to make sure all metal boxes are bonded, closets and storage are lighted, main panels are grounded with 2- 4 gauge copper conductors to separate rods 6 feet apart. ground clamps in this area all meet code if not they can be easily changed and reinspected before burial. gfi receptacles are used where water is possibly present, i.e. outdoor receptacles, bathroom receptacles, receptacles near a kitchen sink. bathroom lighting exhaust fans, etc... are usually wired in series with the gfi receptacle so touching a switch to turn on an exhaust fan with wet hands is covered
Very good! Here in Brazil the system is very different. We used 3 phases
Very Nice we also use 3 phase here in California Mainly For Comercial Buildings , Single Phase mainly in Residential . 👍🙋♂️
True, but with varying loads in the house, it is impossible to have a balanced load with no amperage on the neutral.
Man I wish this guy had his own channel. Very thoro and smart.
And completely ignored code...wow seriously Dood!?
My Guy videos eight-years-old code changes every 3 and then it depends on Authority having jurisdiction
In Greece we have the option for 1 phase or 3 phases power supply starting from 40 amps (we have 230-400V 50Hz and we do not require so many amps). All phases are the same, 120 degrees opposite to each other (no split phase).
The most common grounding system is the TN, the grounding wire from the rods will be connected to a common bar along with neutral in the meter box although there are separate wires for neutral and ground coming from the building. All meters are equipped with automatic circuit breakers with delay so only if the main fuses of your installation fail they will trip. Also the electric meters are the property of "DEDDIE" / "HEDNO" (Hellenic Electricity Distribution Network Operator) . They own the network and are responsible for measuring the meters no matter in which power company you belong to. Power companies use this network to provide electricity). Nobody has the authority to intervene to a meter except the hedno
This 200A entrance is 240V single phase (3 wire 120/240), the reason of many amps. The equivalence in 3phase of 48kW @ 127/220V its 125A.
They skipped the part where the ground rod doesn’t go in all the way and you have to cut it off lol
Hahahahahah👍😅😂🤣
Lol I was thinking the same thing.
🤣🤣🤣 . He should’ve done the old water bottle trick.
Hahaha
They are stamped on the end that you hammer on. The inspector looks for the stamp before you drive it flush with the ground. If he can't find the stamp he will assume you couldn't drive it snt deeper so you cut off the end thinking the inspector wouldn't know that you hadn't driven in the full ,,8 feet. But you wouldn't know about that because because you really didn't know the reason for the stamp in the ground rod.
Would have liked to see the completed project.
I have been an electrician for 40 years and watched This Old House since the Bob Villa days. Scott Caron's workmanship and practices are excellent. The last electrician on the show Alan Galant, was an OSHA violation waiting to happen. I recall in one episode, Galant on top of an extension ladder cutting and working on live service wires with no OSHA required personal protective equipment...not even safety glasses. Following Galant's electrical practices could get someone a stiff OSHA fine or even killed.It's a good thing he was replaced.
I remember that show. He explained to the host that he was on a fiberglass ladder and and host was on an aluminum ladder so it would be dangerous for the host to splice onto live lines from the pole. Also dont recommend twisting wires together with pliers. Try twisting three #12's solid copper together with pliers. I think this guy should have used "NOALOK" on the aluminum connections to prevent corrosion.
You’re all about OSHA aren’t you?
@@gilbertdare5921 Do you have a hard time twisting three number 12s together?
Is it not enough to compliment? To lambast a previous electrician does nothing other than make yourself feel better. Gratification at the cost of others, based uopn a few videos…is sad. Sad indeed.
I like to curl the SEC 360 degrees, making a curly-cue. It’s more work but has 3 advantages. 1 it looks better. 2, it offers a bit a slack if needed. 3 it provides a drip loop is for some reason a seal fails and water does enter the cables, it won’t enter the house.
Aluminum connections are supposed to have an anti-corrosion paste added, by the way. I didn’t see that performed.
Good luck trying to “curl” 4/0 aluminum 360 degrees 🤣🤣🤣
@@electricaf365 lmao
Your comment didn't perform
He did put the noalox on the aluminum it is a different brand though. I had rather use the copper conductors than aluminum
The NEC in the USA does not require paste if the connector is rated AL-CU. But I have always used the paste myself. I hate aluminum wire period. I only use copper on new and retrofit installations.
Love the clear explanations and clean work. Great Job
Great use of proper PPE
Really like the way Scott Caron explains and do his jobs for the show, actually I decided to get my electrician’s license after seeing some of This Old House videos
Thats cool. In our province we take out meter grounding way more serious.
Tus explicaciones sobre instalaciones electricas son de mucha ayuda para mi que tengo 5 meses aprendiendo electricidad saludos desde la ciudad de Mexico
Electricians tip : Instead of using a maul to drive grounding rods into ground - use HD hammer drill .
Thank you, I'd forgotten that term.
Little water and you can actually driving all the way by hand no hammer needed, didn't believe it until I did it myself, but where I work we do use the big hammer drills made for it
With a ground rod driver
@Phil Mccrevasse Please explain. Does that method increase resistance or something?
@@SparkyonWheelz : no, some electrical inspectors are corrupt > ( so you used water to ease the rod down? well that's going to co$t you! ) The ground is going to get wet from rain ,it has no bearing no grounding . The NEC states that the rod must be driven to 8 to 10 inches below surfacing if I remember correctly!
I always like the idea of the masthead being needed for code compliance..while I’m looking at the conduit up the pole feeding my house is completely open and vertical for all the rainfall to fill up conduit feeding my house but no worries my conduit will be dry!!!!
very good speaking and clear actions and good camera man al best to you in USA we are watching from Iraq
Wow…Scott seems really really good.
The code differences between localities is insane. For example in my area you have to take that ground wire straight to the panel and bond the ground and neut in the panel. The utility won't allow it to go through the meter socket.
On the NEC states that you can do your bonding at the meter or main panel
Same here
They update the code every 3 years. I need an outside disconnect your bond after the first means of Disconnect should be outside
The purpose of the electrical code is to justify jobs. Don't expect them to make sense.
The only place the grounding conductor and the neutral connect together is at the main disconnect.
LOL . I can't believe I didn't see this before now. This would be one electrician I wouldn't want on my house . I seen so many violations in that install it makes me wonder it the guys house burnt down a year later.
Name one
Yes pls point out the violation which will result into his house being burnt down or a fatality or any other basic errors, we need to know!
The grounding rods do not prevent electrocution. They provide a path to ground for lightning strikes and transit voltages.
Your neutral wire should have been insulated as it is a current carrying conductor. The twisted strands are to be used as a grounding conductor.
The wire from the ground rods should go to the service panel neutral bus bar.
It can go to the meeter aswell
@@nyrbn I don’t think so, especially using NM. That’s why we bond at the panel. How are you supposed to bond a ground on the panel when it’s in the meter? I think, unless I’m misunderstanding this.
Your work was amazing, here in Brazil that type of work is very complicate and expensive because use copper cable, cement pole and all parts are imbedded inside the wall.
Sorry my write I am learning English.
I remember back in the day when I was in L.A trade tech In early 90s Didn't know nothing about electrical trying to be an apprentice it's the best trade chase you goal never give up the sky is the limit
Jaciel Montes I’m hoping to get into Louisville JATC once they open applications. Wish me luck
Best of luck trust me it will pay 💰 at long 🏃
I wonder how much does it cost to get this upgrade done...this electrician is skillful and did his job very neatly, I would not mind hire him to do mine :). I hate peoples doing sloppy job!
I love stuff like this. Everyone watches it and thinks they're now an electrician. But they always end up having to call us to do it right.
Electric work is so easy compared to most carpentry
@Fattony6666 labor wise sort of but learning electrical would take a life time.while anyone can be a carpenter with little time. No offense.
Since you already have this grounded, do you still need to tie the neutral and ground bus bar at the main panel?
Where’s the Nolox on those aluminum wires?
yeah, guy didn't talk about the difference between aluminum service wires and aluminum household wiring, nor about antioxidant pastes. Antioxidant goes on at 4:51, but it's for less than a second and he doesn't explain what he's doing. I had to ask my electrician about this when inspecting a subpanel run which had thick aluminum conductors. Concerned me that the insurance company would have a fit, but no... apparently this is standard practice.
Why PVC mast??. Is that strong enough to hold the cables from the power pole??. I haven't seen plastic around here Ca.
Wait until a tree falls and bends the weather head. THEN WE SEE WHO "OWNS" the cables coming in to the meter.
Yeah that’s total bullshit!!!! I been there, it’s there cable and mater but some how i have to pay for repairs
He says you are responsible for the meter and feeder cables, until the drop, which is the poco’s.
Cut the freaking tree!!!
@@ovidiuciuparu6421 lmao. some ppl live in wooded areas not in a desert. Tress out number the houses and may also be on adjacent properties.
That bit coming out the other side of the wall😮!
So at what point do you use a sealent on that new extra large hole leting water run right into the new service braker panel ?
Irvin Wittmeier nice call
It's spelt breaker
Spray foam.
Rigid for service entrance. Uni-struts to strap 1.5 or 2.0 in rigid pipe. 2/0 gauge copper service entrance. Service entrance head has to be at 3 feet above roof. And so on and so on. That's California code. .... Residential type I no longer do. I could be mistaken. I mostly work in commercial and industrial projects
Daniel Castillo wrong
Wrong about everything you just said
@@leonardholt5311 educate me than. Been doing this for over 30 years. Idk
@@electricaf365 educate me than 🤷 been doing this for over thirty years.
4:01 that moment you notice the job is a lot harder then it seemed.
Simplestatic haha.. the looked like the sun was starting to set. Had to come back the next day
I used a fence post setter to drive them
So where would you ground the main panel if you did not have water main close enough to connect it to? Would you run it back to the meter socket to ground there?
so are we not supposed to seal the hole behind the new meter where the wire goes through the wall into the house?
Why do you need to know? You are not supposed to do anyway
.
Yes with duct seal. Practically adult play doh
Can the copper grounding wire be left outside above ground without conduit?
Yes
I would really like to thank you so much for showing this.
sledgehammering the rods out here is the hardest part of the job. a foot deep and the ground is like concrete. rods bounce back
Arturo from Tucson they make a ground rod driver that attaches to an sds max hammer drill. Hard to say if it will make it thru your soil but may be worth a shot.
Arturo from Tucson NEC code allows ground rods to be driven at a angle.....much easier to drive
Do I need to notify the city about me updating my panel?
Yes you have to pull a permit for that
@@jhormanlopez268 not technically, depending where you live
Yes
Do you fill the big hole in the house or just let bugs and water in?
I didn't think you could glue pvc conduit with the conductors in place due to possible damage to the wire insulation.
You can do anything as long as you don't screw it up
What's the advantage and disadvantage of PVC vs galvanized pipe? I don't see PVC pipe in Southern CA.
As soon as I saw them push those copper wires into the ground mostly by hand I knew they weren't in Texas
Nick Eckert or in MI
Nick Eckert a heavy hammer drill works like magic.
Or California lol. I've put in multiple ground rods and they all sucked.
lol yes
Nick Eckert and I put the acorn on first.unless you have a numatic drill.
is #6 gauge copper wire ok to use reguardless of 100amp or 200amp main panel or subpanel?
for the 200A service? no. based on some charts, the "best" you could get would be 165A, but that's with special ratings/housing. but always check with local building codes/references.
Yes
Vin Diesel in "The Electrician"
the fate of the electrician
Damn boi thats hilarious
I don't know so much about the meters w/the electric co. but my average water bill is between $25 & $35. a month in the summer but this winter w/ in one month it was nearly $900,oo & no I did not have any leaks as in fact if so my water ran that much my septic tank would have been backed up & my yard would have been evidence as definitely it would have been a swamp. But just a couple months before they found my meter was leaking out by the road & they came out & fixed it as it was on their side of responsibility. Now all of a sudden they were billing me months later telling me I used over 19,000 gallons of water in one month in the winter which I don't have a pool or anything requires a lot of water. I had them replace my meter since then & my water bill is now back to normal. I now take regular readings off my meter to keep a check on it. I don't trust any big business as it is the more they get is the more they want until we become enslaved to them. Just the same is our taxes keep going up, up and away. I am a good man to have on hand I am Dave the handyman home repair guy out of St. Louis Mo. May God bless & only put your trust in him!
That’s a brilliant comment
Definitely
I did not see the ground wire going to the breaker panel, pleaaaase explain. Maybe I missed it. If this is where you are bonding then where you attach your ground inside the breaker panel? Or you are using both bus bars inside the breaker panel by bonding it again? Or your are using a separate ground rod connection altogether in a separate part of the house? Thank you for your prompt reply.
No seal on the cable that goes through the wall of the house!?
Good Point. Maybe He sealed from the inside in order to push his sealant against the meter pan which would act as a stop for proper filling of that hole, But without a follow-up video we will never know! lol
Wow, excellent demonstration.
What about no-lox on the connections......we use no -lox in georgia
it's not required on current applications as the alloy of the aluminum is different/improved from the old days. however I don't see how it would negatively affect anything should you choose to apply it.
How is the large hole behind the meter socket sealed? I realize the cable itself is waterproof but water could get into the wall around the cable.
That cable is not waterproof. About sealing penetrations on a house, look for a different video.
@@electricaf365 Funny coming back after 3 years of learning… I still don’t know what that cable is, but it appears to be some kind of huge romex, which I’ve not seen outside this video :)
No ground to the main panel? or did I miss it
Guess they ground at the meter base wherever this is. Was puzzled by this also.
You can do it this way only if the panel is within 2ft of the meter base and you have the ground and neutral bonded inside it, an important code item he didn't explain, also check with the local codes and standards because every utility company I've dealt with want the top of the meter base at 6ft, and no PVC and aluminum out the top to the weatherhead. Also anytime using aluminum it's really important to use NO-OX on the connections. He basically shows the cheapest way to get by but not really against code.
It's a 3W system. The distance to main panel is irrelevant. You nonfat the first means of disconnection. It depends also on the AHJ if you have to go 4W to the main panel AND install a meter-main panel.
In part 2 he bonds the main panel to the water line inside.
@@markbest4230 please try to remember their are dipshits watching this like me that don't know the lingo or have the slightest clue wtf youre saying.
I appreciate the use of proper wire using ser but you should of protected the conductors all the way to the panel. Was a 4" hole saw necessary?
PVC conduit will crack and fail and warp as welll...
not if installed correctly
No the hell it won’t
this was solid clean work
always check with the electric company first...where I live the weatherhead has to go through the roof...and is use all metal weatherhead and pipe...
A mast only has to be used when there is not enough ground clearance
If you have the proper height or clearance, then you don’t need to penetrate the roof
Metal mast corrodes in time.
You have to use an insulated neutral wire as it is s current carrying conductor. The stranded alumnum wire is the grounding conductor.
There was no need for the expansion coupling. With the top only having a weatherhead it will move up and down as it expands and contracts. Throw the sludge hammer away and get a ground rod driver before you bust your finger.
+TheSeattlegreen yeah it was way to low, I'm guessing it was just for quick demonstration. And by rights the mast should have been a 2" steel mast as well
@@HazardousGuru420 Yes I’ll agree with you on the Steel but it’s not a code violation that I know of.
Just one question.
Would it be more safe to do the inside connections before installing the meter outside ??? I just think, i my line of work as an Electrician in the EU I dont trust anyone other than myself, and who knows if some one just hock the wires back on from the utillity line outside because of a misunderstanding. Just a thought :)
Love the show. keep it up guys.
Thias Russell the whole house gets disconnected at the wheatherhead from the energy company
Ground rods are for voltage regulation - not for fault current. They are a part of the grounding electrode system. The equipment grounding conductor is for fault current return to source (the neutral). Also, if your electrician wants to run a PVC riser - just don't. And with PVC straps? It is allowed in some places, but there is no way in hell I would EVER hang a PVC riser on PVC straps.
It comes down to budget some people don't want to pay for premium because they can't see or understand that EMT or Ridgid at better material than PVC or copper is a better conductor that withstand oxidation way better than aluminum and has less resistance or the contractor wants to maximize profits....my opinion only
@@javierhernandez215 so the material they using to upgrade is cheap? Cooper instead of aluminum? Ridgid instead of PVC. What wrong with PVC. Doing my homework in understand. Will be upgrading this year
@@Bear_83 on an overhead like that using standard PVC isn’t the best option, that pipe is what holds the stress of the overhead lines from the utility. I’d use sch80 pvc if I had to, and steel 2 hole straps. 90% of the time those are run in IMC or rigid though
My guy installed pvc with it strapped to a length of thick angle steel. Very strong.
It is necesssry to call an inspection for this job?
No weathering the hole? WTH?!
I need this done to my house. What does something like this cost to do?
Nice to see Robertson screws being used :)
Curious why the wires are aluminium? When I was answering home insurance questions one of them had to do with aluminium wiring in the house and how it can be a fire hazard. Granted the wires in the house a much smaller.
Usually Aluminum is used for service conductors and sub panel feeds, perfectly safe for this use. Copper is too costly. Aluminum is not allowed for branch wiring and can be a fire hazard.
The insurance companies are interested in older AL branch circuit conductors that have never been mitigated. New properly installed AL service entrance conductors aren't as much a concern.
Aluminum was a problem because it broke easily. But on the main you aren’t taking things apart so it should last for a long time.
Aluminum small-conductor branch circuit wiring is technically still legal insofar as I know, but it requires a lot of double-checking for device compatability and is very expensive to splice with copper conductors. There's nothing inherently dangerous about aluminum conductors. The danger with small aluminum conductors is in the terminations or AL/CU splices, and where the conductors are undersized for the required ampacity (on average, aluminum conductors need to be one size larger than copper conductors for the same current carrying capacity)
Most houses use copper for in the house branch circuits and Aluminum for The service entry cable only
Is it code to window splice the Eufer to the second grounding rod?
He does a very good job of explaining process, and keeping your interest.
I would love to see these guys doing this in Puerto Rico where the houses are made of armed concrete. These jobs are so easy in these plastic houses lol.
Just to be clear...they did not "upgrade the meter" to 200 amp service. They upgraded the service to 200 amps. The meter is the same.
Correct👍
Curious to do this whole job how much average for this kind of work in LI NY
Piece of cake. Come to Chicago. lo
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!! :D
And if you go to Chicago, be sure to bring an armed security force
How far away are you from first point of disconnect? Is it readily available for the fire department?
The neutral wire carries any imbalance current back to the "pole" (center-tap of your stepdown transformer). If the electrical load in your home is perfectly balanced (same current flowing on the black and red hot wires), no current flows on the neutral.
In 220v only countries yes. The above is true in the USA if you ONLY HAVE 220V CIRCUITS. The USA NEC defines the neutral as a "current carrying conductor", the reason for this is that in a USA single phase system the current must return to its source in order for the device that is connected to it to work. Each 120V circuit is a connection from one phase to neutral. Not phase to phase. Current goes out on the phase and returns on the neutral. Voltage from the neutral to ground is determined by the resistance of the neutral. If sized right voltage on the neutral will be less than .1 to 2v. In a "balanced" 3ph system the vector sum of the neutral is zero, then there will be no current on the neutral. I have been a licensed Journeyman Electrician for over 50 years in Memphis Tennessee USA.
How did he seal that hole he made in the house?!?
Where's your Noalox?
My thoughts are where are your required GEC and bonding jumpers inside to the MDP? Why no disconnect before sending the SE unfused through flammable material?
1:55, we had a problem with our 200 amp rated service entrance (SE) wire when it kept popping the main 200 amp breaker. We found out the problem was the SE wire. It was ALUMINUM! We solved the problem when we changed to COPPER wire. That was way back in the mid 1970's. The main breaker had never popped since then.
weird story. Upstream wire does not cause the downstream breaker to trip with overcurrent. Every new house in this town has aluminum SE wire. It just needs to be a bit thicker than copper to be rated for the same amperage. And, of course, the connectors have to be compatible with the expansion coefficient of aluminum, as well as be corrosion protected with chemistry.
Chigobwyn Quorev aluminum is still pretty standard for SE and USE cable...
likely wrong gauge wire or loose terminals causing heating, not good ;)
Shawn lewis
Whats the name of that bar u used to push the se cable into the terminal
Also to answer someone else's question, a disconnect is not required because the panel is less than 6' away from the meter socket. Jeremy
This relative to where you live and isn't universal. There is no rule in the NEC about the distance an unfused service cable can go into a building. It just says "...as close as practical..." or some such. The utility or the local inspector often write their own rules for both meter height and "back-to-back" service length.
"230.91 Location. The service overcun'ent device shall be
an integral part of the service disconnecting means or shall
be located immediately adjacent thereto."
Also check out NEC 230.70 (A) (1) The service disconnecting means SHALL be installed at a readily accessible location either outside or inside of a building or structure nearest the point of entrance.
Louisiana is 3ft from riser to panel before needing a main breaker or fuseable disconnect
A lot has changed code wise since this video was made folks so don’t always rely on TH-cam 👍🏻
Lucky you didn't drill the hole saw into wires at the panel in the basement. A better method would have been to drill a pilot hole into the basement and then drill the larger hole from the inside. Otherwise good video.
He was using existing hole he just enlarged, pretty sure hes safe there chief. Come on man thats what the thing you wanna dig on this about???!!! do better
Don't need any antioxidant on the cable ends in the meter base?
Don't know of any Current Codes where the Meter Base can sit so low to the ground...among other errors in this video...
That’s because you don’t know any current codes
@@electricaf365 lmao. In my area, Chicago burbs, the pedestal sits on the ground and is about two feet tall, and the meter sits on top of the pedestal.