Yeah… it’s definitely not fun… luckily I did mine when it was new so everything came apart nicely. Add some miles and rusty/corroded parts and you’ll be HATING life!
What block off plates did you use? I’m having troubling find a plate that goes on the actual egr like yours. It looks more squarish then the other block off plates.
137_Backwoods ... I used H&S EGR delete kit. I took everything off the truck and traded the truck in so if you’re interested in anything let me know. I have the H&S Mini MAXX tuner, EGR delete kit, EGR cooler delete kit (brand new in box), gauge pod pillar, brand new gauges, etc... you can email me at: subman719@usa.net
@@logancieless6936 ... Yes, I still have the H&S Mini MAXX tuner and exhaust available. Also have EGR and cooler delete kit brand new. Email me at subman719@gmail.com if interested.
I did the delete on my truck as well but i left the cooler and pipes in still. Will that cause a weird sound in the exhaust? Im having this small trouble with my rig. When its under 25 degrees. The truck will drive very good. It shifts thru all the gears and does the howling turbo noise thru each transmission shift perfectly. But if the weather is over 30ish the turbo will only howl thru 1-2 shift and the rest all exhaust. The exhaust sounds abit too choppy. Cud that be from having the coolers and the pipes connected still? Im still waiting for my block off plates to show up
Thanks for your questions… If you didn’t remove and block off your EGR pipes/system, that may make the difference in sound at the different temperatures. The EGR system may be opening and closing differently at the different temperatures to help the engine warm up or stay warm. Diesels don’t like to be cold. They run on heat and like to stay warm. If you deleted the DPF system and are running a tuner, at a minimum, you need to have the EGR bypassed/blocked off to prevent the EGR cooler from clogging up and reduce the hot exhaust gasses and soot from recirculating through the engine. Deleting/bypassing the EGR cooler system is just an additional added benefit and reduces a little weight off the engine and allows better coolant flow to the cylinder head. I wouldn’t be concerned about your exhaust sounds unless you hear something like a grinding turbo sound, which WILL happen after the deletes. Once you reduce back pressure, the turbo spools faster and goes out of balance at the higher speeds, which in turn wipes out the turbo shaft bearings and seals! Mine started to go at 30k miles and by 50k miles, it was ready for a new turbo. Hope this helped.
@@subman719 yes thank you this helps out alot. I knew it had something to do with the egr cooler and the pipes being intact and in the truck still. Because all my other friends have a 6.7 as well and there egr coolers are all removed and it sounds amazing. Mine just sounds different due to the egr system still being in
Trevor Grand ... I had not done the coolant reroute or removed the EGR cooler at that time but I do have the “No Limit Fabrication” EGR cooler block off kit with bypass plate still new in box. I had planned on installing it but my needs for the truck changed so I put everything back to stock. If you’re planning on deleting the truck then deleting the EGR cooler and bypassing the coolant is the way to go!
Trevor Grand ... I ran the truck for 5 years deleted with the EGR cooler still intact with no issues related to it. I’m not aware of any issues leaving it in place if it’s blocked off. The benefits of removal are weight savings, cleaner looking engine compartment and I believe cooler running temperatures.
@@subman719 iv heard of people downloading forscan and manually over-righting factory programs I did the Derringer ony truck but Mines a true cab/chassis and it manipulated the trucks sensors and banks couldn't figure it out so the refunded my money I do run pedal monster witch seems to act like a programmer
Santiago Cespedes ... You simply unplug wire connector to EGR solenoid to disable it while you are doing EGR block off plates. Once you download your delete tune it bypasses EGR circuit so it won’t see it or DPF anymore. There are no EGR vacuum lines. It’s all electronic.
GenoTac ... I used a 6 point IMPACT rated socket with an impact rated swivel and 12” long extension with a long handled ratchet. All were 3/8” drive, done very gently and done when truck only had 1400 miles on it so everything came out nicely. If you have a lot of miles on it, try spraying SeaFoam Deep Creap penetrant around bolt heads a few times and let soak overnight each time. Then gently try again after 2nd or 3rd time. Hope this helps!
GenoTac ... If you manage to get it out, put anti seize on bolt threads so it’s easier to get back out if needed in the future. Worst case scenario, if you snap the bolts you can drill them out and heli-coil new thread inserts and use new bolts.
subman719 definitely anti seize, I'll use the bolts in the No Limit kit I got. I have the upper intake manifold out too cause I'm checking the oil leak at the valley, so it may be awhile to put it back together. But as of now just stuck at those two bolts. Thank you again!
Stephen Meyers .... I actually didn’t have to open or drain the coolant to do the EGR block-off. I still have to remove the EGR cooler assembly which will require draining cooling system. I will post another video when I remove EGR cooler. Should be soon.
To my knowledge and experience in the past 44k miles since I did the delete, there is no risk to leaving the cooler in place as long as you install the EGR exhaust block-off plates so no exhaust will flow through cooler. The only downside to leaving the cooler in place that I'm aware of is very slightly less performance due to the two cooling systems still remaining separate. If you delete the cooler and use the bypass kit/plate, it merges the two cooling systems and allows the engine coolant to help cool the Charge Air Cooler. Other than that, as long as the cooler is in place with EGR blocked off, you should be fine.
John Tabler ... there’s three pyro sensors in the DPF. You can use any of them. The other sensors in the DPF are oxygen I believe. I can look in the manual if needed to give you the exact location of each. You can email me at subman719@gmail.com I actually ordered extra pyro sensors from www.tascaparts.com because they burn out quick in the location in the manifold. Hope this helps.
Thank yoy for showing where the plug is for the egt sensor. I couldn’t find it to save my life until I found this video
hahaha same. and im still wondering where my bad egt1 is located since my def fell off... and those 4 are mia lol
I’ve never been so miserable working on my truck until I did this 😂
Yeah… it’s definitely not fun… luckily I did mine when it was new so everything came apart nicely. Add some miles and rusty/corroded parts and you’ll be HATING life!
@@subman719 my truck had 156k and I wanted to shoot my self after that
What block off plates did you use? I’m having troubling find a plate that goes on the actual egr like yours. It looks more squarish then the other block off plates.
137_Backwoods ... I used H&S EGR delete kit. I took everything off the truck and traded the truck in so if you’re interested in anything let me know. I have the H&S Mini MAXX tuner, EGR delete kit, EGR cooler delete kit (brand new in box), gauge pod pillar, brand new gauges, etc... you can email me at: subman719@usa.net
@@subman719 any chance you are still interested in selling? I’m looking to delete my 2011
@@logancieless6936 ... Yes, I still have the H&S Mini MAXX tuner and exhaust available. Also have EGR and cooler delete kit brand new. Email me at subman719@gmail.com if interested.
I did the delete on my truck as well but i left the cooler and pipes in still. Will that cause a weird sound in the exhaust? Im having this small trouble with my rig. When its under 25 degrees. The truck will drive very good. It shifts thru all the gears and does the howling turbo noise thru each transmission shift perfectly. But if the weather is over 30ish the turbo will only howl thru 1-2 shift and the rest all exhaust. The exhaust sounds abit too choppy. Cud that be from having the coolers and the pipes connected still? Im still waiting for my block off plates to show up
And when deleting the egr cooler from the truck do we put back the exhaust back pressure sensor back in as well or no
Thanks for your questions… If you didn’t remove and block off your EGR pipes/system, that may make the difference in sound at the different temperatures. The EGR system may be opening and closing differently at the different temperatures to help the engine warm up or stay warm. Diesels don’t like to be cold. They run on heat and like to stay warm. If you deleted the DPF system and are running a tuner, at a minimum, you need to have the EGR bypassed/blocked off to prevent the EGR cooler from clogging up and reduce the hot exhaust gasses and soot from recirculating through the engine. Deleting/bypassing the EGR cooler system is just an additional added benefit and reduces a little weight off the engine and allows better coolant flow to the cylinder head. I wouldn’t be concerned about your exhaust sounds unless you hear something like a grinding turbo sound, which WILL happen after the deletes. Once you reduce back pressure, the turbo spools faster and goes out of balance at the higher speeds, which in turn wipes out the turbo shaft bearings and seals! Mine started to go at 30k miles and by 50k miles, it was ready for a new turbo. Hope this helped.
@@subman719 yes thank you this helps out alot. I knew it had something to do with the egr cooler and the pipes being intact and in the truck still. Because all my other friends have a 6.7 as well and there egr coolers are all removed and it sounds amazing. Mine just sounds different due to the egr system still being in
@@subman719 i will definitely be getting that hunk of poop moved out and i do plan on switching to a non vgt turbo soon after the oem one goes out.
@@subman719 also will keep you updated when its all out and finished my man. Thank you again
Does this also mean not doing the coolant reroute?
Trevor Grand ... I had not done the coolant reroute or removed the EGR cooler at that time but I do have the “No Limit Fabrication” EGR cooler block off kit with bypass plate still new in box. I had planned on installing it but my needs for the truck changed so I put everything back to stock. If you’re planning on deleting the truck then deleting the EGR cooler and bypassing the coolant is the way to go!
subman719 how long did you run the truck and not have any issues? What issues could arise out of leaving the cooler in place
Trevor Grand ... I ran the truck for 5 years deleted with the EGR cooler still intact with no issues related to it. I’m not aware of any issues leaving it in place if it’s blocked off. The benefits of removal are weight savings, cleaner looking engine compartment and I believe cooler running temperatures.
Qwestion do u have to run a tuner when doing the egr delete?
Yes. You can’t delete anything without a tuner that is capable of overriding the factory programming.
@@subman719 iv heard of people downloading forscan and manually over-righting factory programs
I did the Derringer ony truck but Mines a true cab/chassis and it manipulated the trucks sensors and banks couldn't figure it out so the refunded my money I do run pedal monster witch seems to act like a programmer
@@bradmcmanis3231 ... I’m not familiar with that particular scanner. Sorry
I have a question what about the vacuum lines on the egr did you block those off?
I'm getting ready to delete my 2013 ford f250 next weekend!
Santiago Cespedes ... You simply unplug wire connector to EGR solenoid to disable it while you are doing EGR block off plates. Once you download your delete tune it bypasses EGR circuit so it won’t see it or DPF anymore. There are no EGR vacuum lines. It’s all electronic.
@@subman719 ok thank you very much for you fast response sir!
What did you use to remove the two bolts for the egr up pipe at the exhaust manifold. I have stripped 2 8mm sockets trying to get them out.
GenoTac ... I used a 6 point IMPACT rated socket with an impact rated swivel and 12” long extension with a long handled ratchet. All were 3/8” drive, done very gently and done when truck only had 1400 miles on it so everything came out nicely. If you have a lot of miles on it, try spraying SeaFoam Deep Creap penetrant around bolt heads a few times and let soak overnight each time. Then gently try again after 2nd or 3rd time. Hope this helps!
subman719 well it has 130k miles, been soaking with Liquid Wrench for 3 days, not budging, I'm going to go the impact route. Thank you.
GenoTac ... If you manage to get it out, put anti seize on bolt threads so it’s easier to get back out if needed in the future. Worst case scenario, if you snap the bolts you can drill them out and heli-coil new thread inserts and use new bolts.
subman719 definitely anti seize, I'll use the bolts in the No Limit kit I got. I have the upper intake manifold out too cause I'm checking the oil leak at the valley, so it may be awhile to put it back together. But as of now just stuck at those two bolts. Thank you again!
@@xj1911 you’ll break both of those bolts if you use an impact on them.
Did you just drain the one side of coolant? How much did you have to put back in?
Stephen Meyers .... I actually didn’t have to open or drain the coolant to do the EGR block-off. I still have to remove the EGR cooler assembly which will require draining cooling system. I will post another video when I remove EGR cooler. Should be soon.
Is there any risk or downside to leaving the cooler in place?
To my knowledge and experience in the past 44k miles since I did the delete, there is no risk to leaving the cooler in place as long as you install the EGR exhaust block-off plates so no exhaust will flow through cooler. The only downside to leaving the cooler in place that I'm aware of is very slightly less performance due to the two cooling systems still remaining separate. If you delete the cooler and use the bypass kit/plate, it merges the two cooling systems and allows the engine coolant to help cool the Charge Air Cooler. Other than that, as long as the cooler is in place with EGR blocked off, you should be fine.
Which pyro sensor from the dpf did you use? How do i know to use the right one?
John Tabler ... there’s three pyro sensors in the DPF. You can use any of them. The other sensors in the DPF are oxygen I believe. I can look in the manual if needed to give you the exact location of each. You can email me at subman719@gmail.com I actually ordered extra pyro sensors from www.tascaparts.com because they burn out quick in the location in the manifold. Hope this helps.
Pro trick: watch series at Flixzone. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Julien Gerardo definitely, I've been using Flixzone for months myself :)
@Julien Gerardo Definitely, been watching on Flixzone for since december myself :)