Geez 😮 What a little wild animal.!! Iam thankful i had parents that put me in place when it was needed. I survived many an ass beating or other punishments and none of it killed or damaged me. Times have changed and at 53 im getting older😂😂😂 Thanks Mark… great stuff!
This is awesome. I've never seen a video showing sight picture from behind the bow like you did here. So many talk about it but you showed it now I don't have to guess, my eye knows what to look for now. Thank you so much.
As always Mark more Great content. Thanks for all your hard work to bring us the easiest method to become consistently accurate with our bare bows. Be Blessed and Stay Safe
Hi Mark Old trapshooter here I use this method to great success but with a yost tab mostly all 3D rounds Try shooting a 3D coarse I'm very happy with it 😀
You guys MAKE MY WEEKEND with comments like this ! YOU are the very reason this channel exists - to make you fall in love with ARCHERY by showing you a PRACTICAL method that WORKS ! Kind Regards, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Mark, thanks so much . Using my Browing safari 54 inch Nomad that I've had since the sixtys. I loved hunting with this bow since the rabbit I shot on the first trip out.
Greetings "user" and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS! I had to look up your bow - it's GORGEOUS! Glad you feel comfortable using the VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD on this your bow. As mentioned, I've been using my shootong method on my 1974 DARTON MAGNUM (42 inches tall x 50# pulling to 58#) fir YEARS & YEARS with no ill effects. RABBIT HUNILTING is UNDER RATED, as is GOOSE HUNTING via bow. They should make both more popular (legal) :-) LAST COMMENT: Did you find yourself using a (slightly) LONGER bowstring on your Nomad than the one it came with? Im asking because Ive grown convinced that many bows of this era were "over strung" - that it, their biwstrings were TOO SHORT, resulting in a Brace Height that was about 2 inches TOO WIDE. And if you simply go about 1 to 2 inches LONGER in the bowstring, this brace comes down to about 7 5/8 inches, and you end up with (surprisingly) a SMOOTHER shot and (morw surprisingly) MORE POWER (arrow speed) because now the bowstring had 2 MORE inches of "pull" on the arrow. Also, bows back then had 16 strand and even 18 strand steing fir what was only 50# at most - OVERKILL as far as I'm concerned. With These days materials (D55) you can make an excwllemt string with only 12 strands, and it's NOTICWABLY FASTER! Something for you to try! CHEERS, Mark
I just found your videos and so excited to adapt this to my Trad shooting. In tournaments I can’t string walk. But I’m trying to have my release cleaner and quieter. Your anchor point and explanation of your release is something I think will work for me. Thank you!
Mark, this is Steve from Texas. This video really helps understand what you are supposed to see. And where the string on the arrow goes. I’m a lefty so I will just flip everything that you are saying. Awesome video! Can’t wait to wait the rest!
What arrow rest do you suggest? I was told string walking is very hard on the rest. I noticed on your 60 lb bow you had a screw in plastic rest. I don't want to invest money in a rest that I will end up breaking. Thanks for helping me get into barebow string walking!
Years ago i could never hold my compound or my recurve for very long before i started shaking. I taught myself to set for moment to wait for a shot and would pull up get arrow on target and release. This was the only way I could shoot instinctively and with accurately. Is this the way to correctly shoot instinctively???
Paul, I will never claim to be an expert on Instinctive ("Intuitive" is a far more self-describing term for it) Shooting, even though like so many archers I DID shoot instinctively most of my youth & adult life... All I can say is that you & I are in agreement on this point: MOST Instinctive/Intuitive archers DON'T hold for any length of time at all, any more than a professional BASEBALL PLAYER "HOLDS" before he winds up and throws a ball from centerfield to home plate (and HITS it), or any more than a professional GOLFER "HOLDS" at the top of his swing before executing his swing, or any more than a professional FOOTBALL QUARTERBACK "HOLDS" before he winds up and throws a 20-yard "rifle shot" at a moving receiver running a post. All of this is practiced-until-you-hardly-know-how-to-do-it-any-OTHER-way INTUITIVE shooting, and after the split-second decision on WHAT do you, you simply DO it... DOES it take NEARLY-DAILY PRACTICE to develop this proficiency? Yes - of course. Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
How do you only get roughly a three finger crawl when shooting at short distances, when your anchor is that low? Olympic shooters shoot at 70 meters, so they would need a low anchor. I do a 2 and a quarter crawl at 10 meters, with my anchor at my tooth. Shooting a 42 ish pound bow and Ive set my nock height fairly high to reduce crawl.
Greetings Beatbuster and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! OK, let me try to unpack everything you just asked & said - let's go one point at a time: Let's start with assuming BOTH you & I are shooting a bow with a draw weight somewhere close to 45# (we ARE); (note: this is also quite common for competitive Olympic Recurve archers) Let's also assume we're using competition-spined arrows (say 100gr tips and 600 spines) THEN... 1. EVERYONE who anchors under their chin will have the SAME 3-finger gap* - there's nothing special about ME, including the general geometry of my face; This LARGE gap will RAISE the rear of the arrow UP so that arrow's elevation DROPS so it shoots SHORTER, which is precisely what we're describing with a 20m shot; 2. You say "I do a 2 1/4 (finger?) gap at 10m, while anchoring at my (eye?) tooth" - MY gap at 10m would actually be even WIDER than at 20m; I would have a 4 to 4 1/2 finger gap;** - MY gap would be measured from the BOTTOM of my CHIN UP to the arrow; - YOUR gap would be measured from your EYE TOOTH up to the arrow, so it SHOULD be SMALLER, and it IS; - MY gap SHOULD be about 2 full "FINGERs" WIDER than yours (4 1/2 - 2 1/4 = 2 1/4 finger), and it IS; - IF YOU LOOK IN THE MIRROR, you'll see that this 2 1/4 fingers is just about the distance from your EYE TOOTH TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR CHIN; - Mark perceives NO discrepancy between YOUR stringwalking gap for 10m anchoring at your EYE TOOTH and MARK'S stringwalking gap for 20m anchoring under his CHIN :-) 3. You say "I've set my nock height fairly high to 'reduce the crawl' " (gap) MARK thinks raising the nock height will only INCREASE that gap ;-) MARK has proved to himself over & over that all you will gain from RAISING the nock height (the position of a nocking point on the bowstring above perpendicular) is a BETTER-BALANCED SHOT AT SHORT RANGES - that's it. But you WON'T "reduce" any crawls (gaps) - they'll still be the SAME because this "crawl" (gap) is measured strictly from the nocking point to the drawing point of the index finger - WHEREVER THAT IS. IF your Stringwalking Gap is (say) 3 fingers for a 20m shot, then if you RAISE the nocking point UP about half a finger, your Stringwalking Gap WILL STILL BE 3 FINGERS for a 20m shot; you''ll just be measuring that 3 finger gap from a position on the bowstring about half a finger HIGHER than before. But it will be the SAME 3 FINGER GAP. GREAT DISCUSSION ! THIS KIND OF DISCUSSION IS WHAT MAKES THIS CHANNEL USEFUL TO OTHER ARCHERS ! MANY THANKS BEATBUSTER ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS *note: "crawl" is a silly NOT-self-describing term I refuse to use to describe what is OBVIOUSLY a GAP between the nocking point of the arrow and the drawing point of one's index finger... **note: I've repeatedly stated in all of my videos that - as with sights on an Olympic Recurve Bow or a Compound Bow, any "linear relationship" between StringWalking Gap and Arrow Distance is only linear across a limited RANGE, typically from 20m to about 60m; OUTSIDE this range your changes in gap become LARGER, so from 20m to 10m it's NOT a 1/2 finger change in gap, it's more like a FULL finger (or more) change in gap
Greetings Erin and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! SHORT ANSWER: I prefer to use units that have NOTHING to do with "inches" or "centimeters", but instead have to do with dimensions commonly found on ANY bow. In regard to your question, I measure the "Nocking Point Location" (the location which a physical "Nocking Point" is attached to a bowstring) in terms of "arrow shaft widths" - a distance readily-available to any archer, so there's no need to carry a ruler or a T-square or any other such (excessive) gear. Yes, arrow shaft widths DO VARY, but I think you & I can both agree that there is no one "Magic Nocking Point Location" which works on ALL bows; instead you begin with a popular STARTING POINT Location, and then you adjust adjust adjust until "The Bow Tells You" the location of its "Sweet Spot" - that Nocking Point Location where THAT bow with THAT arrow with THAT arrowtip with THAT arrow spine with THAT arrow length shoots MOST SMOOTHLY. And this gets even a bit MORE COMPLICATED when you start STRINGWALKING, because you'll quickly find (unsurprisingly) that your Nocking Point Location will need to MOVE (at least a little) for different distances :-O But this is another topic I've already covered in other videos - please search for "stringwalking" in my channel) BACK ON-TOPIC... Me? I've devised a wonderful MOVEABLE NOCKING POINT comprised of nothing more than 3 (NOT one, NOT two, NOT four - I've tried them all) "speed buttons" used to "tune" compound bows. Then I position my "starting" Nocking Point Location about 1 "Arrow Width" (arrow shaft width) above perpendicular. "But Mark, HOW do I determine what 'perpendicular' is without a T-square ???" I knew you were going to ask that ;-) IT'S NOT THAT HARD - and remember this is just a STARTING PLACE for MOVING this Nocking Point until THE BOW tells you where its SWEET SPOT IS, so DON'T get all wound up about WHERE you start ! TRY THIS: SET WHAT you THINK is a good "starting" Nocking Point Location; NOCK an arrow into the bow; then HOLD THAT bow-arrow combination out at arm's length - if it LOOKS like a "right angle" or a "square angle", then it IS. If you're still NOT convinced, then look around for any nearby BUILDING that has a SQUARE CORNER you can see and HOLD the bow-arrow combination up to that SQUARE CORNER and check you angle, and adjust accordingly. MY POINT IS THIS: wherever you're shooting you will be SURROUNDED by SQUARE ANGLES, so there's no need to BUY and use a "bow square" Mankind has shot bows for over 10 THOUSAND YEARS, and bow squares have been around only for about the last 50 years, so somehow we got by just fine WITHOUT such tools for 9, 950 years ;-) MY LAST POINT IS THIS: If you become RELIANT on a RULER for measuring things related to bows, you will also become a SLAVE to that ruler and miss the actual UNDERSTANDING of what you're doing: You're simply STARTING SOMEWHERE with a Nocking Point Location, and then iteratively ADJUSTING (moving) that Nocking Point Location... NOT "'until a RULE tells you something is CORRECT", but "until the BOW tells you something is CORRECT." If you watch some (many?) of my videos - you'll clearly see that - for many SHORT distances like 10m, 15m even 20m - when I'm shooting a LARGE-DRAW WEIGHT bow (eg 55#, 558#, 60#), my bow's "Sweet Spot" Nocking Point Location is in fact almost 1 1/2 "arrow widths" above perpendicular :-O !! HERESY ??? No - this is the BOW telling Mark where it's unique-to-each-bow-in-each-specific-situation "Sweet Spot" is. And this is Mark LISTENING to his bows. :-) Let me know if I've answered your question! -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Erin, At this ONE SPECIFIC (SHORT) DISTANCE, it just so happens that my "stringwalking gap" is so large (about 3 fingers wide) that when I anchor under my chin, the arrow nock is quite high up - nearly at my eye level. For LONGER distances (say 40m, 50m or more) this "stringwalking gap" is much SMALLER so that the nock ends up LOWER on your chin. CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS TO SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING: Watch these videos: 1. th-cam.com/video/LtGrXt_rJBI/w-d-xo.html 2. th-cam.com/video/Oa01moaIp7c/w-d-xo.html 3. th-cam.com/users/shortsnOr-oorR0kw 4. th-cam.com/video/MGDvz4WG8TU/w-d-xo.html You'll see the arrow nock "float" up & down along the front of my face as I set my "stringwalking gap" and anchor... When I'm shooting SHORT distances (eg 10m) then the arrow nock will be located VERY HIGH - almost in line with my AIMING EYE :-O ... When I'm shooting LONGER distances (eg 40m), then the arrow nock will be touching about midway down the front of my jaw... When I'm shooting REALLY LONG distances (eg 70m+) then the arrow nock will actually be at the BOTTOM of my chin... When I'm shooting REALLY LONG distances (eg 90m+) then the arrow nock can actually be BELOW my chin completely ! But for most "practical" ranges from 10m to 40m you'll find that the arrow nock is somewhere between directly-in-front-of-your-eye to about midway-down-your-chin... Let me know if this explanation helped you ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Stringwalking in many compititions is not legal to use .. like in field shooting in the traditional class.. Rule AC 22.14.5 String and face walking are not allowed. • A single anchor point shall be used. • While shooting the archer must touch the arrow with the index finger against the nock.
Tmoan... What do "rules" like this tell YOU?. To me they speak of biased, "clicque-ish" behavior - the OPPOSITE of "inclusive". To make matters worse, it all gets labeled "traditional" - as if there were ONLY ONE tradition?? . It's an insult to all Asian forms of archery, whose techniques PRE-DATE European forms by MILLENIA. Me? I ENJOY competing against ALL forms of Archery, and learning that each method was developed & perfected out of a specific SCENARIO: long-range non-urgent, short-range urgent, hunting, warfare, armor-piercing, you name it. And jist becauae shooting along a LINE at a TARGET ISN'T one archery form's forte' DOESN'T make it "inferior" and doesn't mean that practitioner DOESN'T want to see-what-his-form-can-do... All OPINION, of course. And MY opinion is worth what anyone else's is - and no more than that ;-)....
Geez 😮 What a little wild animal.!! Iam thankful i had parents that put me in place when it was needed. I survived many an ass beating or other punishments and none of it killed or damaged me.
Times have changed and at 53 im getting older😂😂😂 Thanks Mark… great stuff!
😊You did it again 👌🇩🇰thank you
Thank you for working on my suggestions again Mark 🙂🙏
This is awesome. I've never seen a video showing sight picture from behind the bow like you did here. So many talk about it but you showed it now I don't have to guess, my eye knows what to look for now. Thank you so much.
Probably the absolute most helpful video for new archers!
subbed just because this is the only and the best video on sight picture. Great job and thank you.
As always Mark more
Great content. Thanks for all your hard work to bring us the easiest method to become consistently accurate with our bare bows.
Be Blessed and Stay Safe
Hi Mark
Old trapshooter here I use this method to great success but with a yost tab mostly all 3D rounds Try shooting a 3D coarse I'm very happy with it 😀
Perfect teacher.thank your.Pavol trom Slovakia
You guys MAKE MY WEEKEND with comments like this !
YOU are the very reason this channel exists - to make you fall in love with ARCHERY by showing you a PRACTICAL method that WORKS !
Kind Regards,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Another great video, thanks!
Mark, thanks so much . Using my Browing
safari 54 inch Nomad that I've had since the sixtys. I loved hunting with this bow since the rabbit I shot on the first trip out.
Greetings "user" and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS!
I had to look up your bow - it's GORGEOUS!
Glad you feel comfortable using the VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD on this your bow. As mentioned, I've been using my shootong method on my 1974 DARTON MAGNUM (42 inches tall x 50# pulling to 58#) fir YEARS & YEARS with no ill effects.
RABBIT HUNILTING is UNDER RATED, as is GOOSE HUNTING via bow. They should make both more popular (legal) :-)
LAST COMMENT:
Did you find yourself using a (slightly) LONGER bowstring on your Nomad than the one it came with?
Im asking because Ive grown convinced that many bows of this era were "over strung" - that it, their biwstrings were TOO SHORT, resulting in a Brace Height that was about 2 inches TOO WIDE. And if you simply go about 1 to 2 inches LONGER in the bowstring, this brace comes down to about 7 5/8 inches, and you end up with (surprisingly) a SMOOTHER shot and (morw surprisingly) MORE POWER (arrow speed) because now the bowstring had 2 MORE inches of "pull" on the arrow.
Also, bows back then had 16 strand and even 18 strand steing fir what was only 50# at most - OVERKILL as far as I'm concerned. With These days materials (D55) you can make an excwllemt string with only 12 strands, and it's NOTICWABLY FASTER!
Something for you to try!
CHEERS,
Mark
I just found your videos and so excited to adapt this to my Trad shooting. In tournaments I can’t string walk. But I’m trying to have my release cleaner and quieter. Your anchor point and explanation of your release is something I think will work for me. Thank you!
Good job Mark,
THANKS!
This method could work absoloutely amazingly with a proper follow through
Mark, this is Steve from Texas. This video really helps understand what you are supposed to see. And where the string on the arrow goes. I’m a lefty so I will just flip everything that you are saying. Awesome video! Can’t wait to wait the rest!
Glad it helped!
What arrow rest do you suggest? I was told string walking is very hard on the rest. I noticed on your 60 lb bow you had a screw in plastic rest. I don't want to invest money in a rest that I will end up breaking. Thanks for helping me get into barebow string walking!
Years ago i could never hold my compound or my recurve for very long before i started shaking. I taught myself to set for moment to wait for a shot and would pull up get arrow on target and release. This was the only way I could shoot instinctively and with accurately. Is this the way to correctly shoot instinctively???
Paul,
I will never claim to be an expert on Instinctive ("Intuitive" is a far more self-describing term for it) Shooting, even though like so many archers I DID shoot instinctively most of my youth & adult life...
All I can say is that you & I are in agreement on this point: MOST Instinctive/Intuitive archers DON'T hold for any length of time at all, any more than a professional BASEBALL PLAYER "HOLDS" before he winds up and throws a ball from centerfield to home plate (and HITS it), or any more than a professional GOLFER "HOLDS" at the top of his swing before executing his swing, or any more than a professional FOOTBALL QUARTERBACK "HOLDS" before he winds up and throws a 20-yard "rifle shot" at a moving receiver running a post. All of this is practiced-until-you-hardly-know-how-to-do-it-any-OTHER-way INTUITIVE shooting, and after the split-second decision on WHAT do you, you simply DO it...
DOES it take NEARLY-DAILY PRACTICE to develop this proficiency?
Yes - of course.
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
How do you only get roughly a three finger crawl when shooting at short distances, when your anchor is that low? Olympic shooters shoot at 70 meters, so they would need a low anchor. I do a 2 and a quarter crawl at 10 meters, with my anchor at my tooth. Shooting a 42 ish pound bow and Ive set my nock height fairly high to reduce crawl.
Greetings Beatbuster and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
OK, let me try to unpack everything you just asked & said - let's go one point at a time:
Let's start with assuming BOTH you & I are shooting a bow with a draw weight somewhere close to 45# (we ARE);
(note: this is also quite common for competitive Olympic Recurve archers)
Let's also assume we're using competition-spined arrows (say 100gr tips and 600 spines)
THEN...
1. EVERYONE who anchors under their chin will have the SAME 3-finger gap* - there's nothing special about ME, including the general geometry of my face; This LARGE gap will RAISE the rear of the arrow UP so that arrow's elevation DROPS so it shoots SHORTER, which is precisely what we're describing with a 20m shot;
2. You say "I do a 2 1/4 (finger?) gap at 10m, while anchoring at my (eye?) tooth"
- MY gap at 10m would actually be even WIDER than at 20m; I would have a 4 to 4 1/2 finger gap;**
- MY gap would be measured from the BOTTOM of my CHIN UP to the arrow;
- YOUR gap would be measured from your EYE TOOTH up to the arrow, so it SHOULD be SMALLER, and it IS;
- MY gap SHOULD be about 2 full "FINGERs" WIDER than yours (4 1/2 - 2 1/4 = 2 1/4 finger), and it IS;
- IF YOU LOOK IN THE MIRROR, you'll see that this 2 1/4 fingers is just about the distance from your EYE TOOTH
TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR CHIN;
- Mark perceives NO discrepancy between YOUR stringwalking gap for 10m anchoring at your EYE TOOTH and
MARK'S stringwalking gap for 20m anchoring under his CHIN :-)
3. You say "I've set my nock height fairly high to 'reduce the crawl' " (gap)
MARK thinks raising the nock height will only INCREASE that gap ;-)
MARK has proved to himself over & over that all you will gain from RAISING the nock height
(the position of a nocking point on the bowstring above perpendicular) is a BETTER-BALANCED SHOT AT
SHORT RANGES - that's it.
But you WON'T "reduce" any crawls (gaps) - they'll still be the SAME because this "crawl" (gap) is measured
strictly from the nocking point to the drawing point of the index finger - WHEREVER THAT IS.
IF your Stringwalking Gap is (say) 3 fingers for a 20m shot, then if you RAISE the nocking point UP about
half a finger, your Stringwalking Gap WILL STILL BE 3 FINGERS for a 20m shot; you''ll just be measuring that
3 finger gap from a position on the bowstring about half a finger HIGHER than before. But it will be
the SAME 3 FINGER GAP.
GREAT DISCUSSION ! THIS KIND OF DISCUSSION IS WHAT MAKES THIS CHANNEL USEFUL TO OTHER ARCHERS !
MANY THANKS BEATBUSTER !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
*note: "crawl" is a silly NOT-self-describing term I refuse to use to describe what is OBVIOUSLY a GAP between the nocking point of the arrow and the drawing point of one's index finger...
**note: I've repeatedly stated in all of my videos that - as with sights on an Olympic Recurve Bow or a Compound Bow, any "linear relationship" between StringWalking Gap and Arrow Distance is only linear across a limited RANGE, typically from 20m to about 60m; OUTSIDE this range your changes in gap become LARGER, so from 20m to 10m it's NOT a 1/2 finger change in gap, it's more like a FULL finger (or more) change in gap
Also where do you put your nocking on your sting is it a quarter of a inch?
Greetings Erin and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
SHORT ANSWER:
I prefer to use units that have NOTHING to do with "inches" or "centimeters", but instead have to do with dimensions commonly found on ANY bow.
In regard to your question, I measure the "Nocking Point Location" (the location which a physical "Nocking Point" is attached to a bowstring) in terms of "arrow shaft widths" - a distance readily-available to any archer, so there's no need to carry a ruler or a T-square or any other such (excessive) gear.
Yes, arrow shaft widths DO VARY, but I think you & I can both agree that there is no one "Magic Nocking Point Location" which works on ALL bows; instead you begin with a popular STARTING POINT Location, and then you adjust adjust adjust until "The Bow Tells You" the location of its "Sweet Spot" - that Nocking Point Location where THAT bow with THAT arrow with THAT arrowtip with THAT arrow spine with THAT arrow length shoots MOST SMOOTHLY.
And this gets even a bit MORE COMPLICATED when you start STRINGWALKING, because you'll quickly find (unsurprisingly) that your Nocking Point Location will need to MOVE (at least a little) for different distances :-O
But this is another topic I've already covered in other videos - please search for "stringwalking" in my channel)
BACK ON-TOPIC...
Me? I've devised a wonderful MOVEABLE NOCKING POINT comprised of nothing more than 3 (NOT one, NOT two, NOT four - I've tried them all) "speed buttons" used to "tune" compound bows.
Then I position my "starting" Nocking Point Location about 1 "Arrow Width" (arrow shaft width) above perpendicular.
"But Mark, HOW do I determine what 'perpendicular' is without a T-square ???"
I knew you were going to ask that ;-)
IT'S NOT THAT HARD - and remember this is just a STARTING PLACE for MOVING this Nocking Point until THE BOW tells you where its SWEET SPOT IS, so DON'T get all wound up about WHERE you start !
TRY THIS:
SET WHAT you THINK is a good "starting" Nocking Point Location;
NOCK an arrow into the bow; then
HOLD THAT bow-arrow combination out at arm's length - if it LOOKS like a "right angle" or a "square angle", then it IS.
If you're still NOT convinced, then look around for any nearby BUILDING that has a SQUARE CORNER you can see and HOLD the bow-arrow combination up to that SQUARE CORNER and check you angle, and adjust accordingly.
MY POINT IS THIS: wherever you're shooting you will be SURROUNDED by SQUARE ANGLES, so there's no need to BUY and use a "bow square" Mankind has shot bows for over 10 THOUSAND YEARS, and bow squares have been around only for about the last 50 years, so somehow we got by just fine WITHOUT such tools for 9, 950 years ;-)
MY LAST POINT IS THIS: If you become RELIANT on a RULER for measuring things related to bows, you will also become a SLAVE to that ruler and miss the actual UNDERSTANDING of what you're doing:
You're simply STARTING SOMEWHERE with a Nocking Point Location, and then iteratively ADJUSTING (moving) that Nocking Point Location...
NOT "'until a RULE tells you something is CORRECT", but "until the BOW tells you something is CORRECT."
If you watch some (many?) of my videos - you'll clearly see that - for many SHORT distances like 10m, 15m even 20m - when I'm shooting a LARGE-DRAW WEIGHT bow (eg 55#, 558#, 60#), my bow's "Sweet Spot" Nocking Point Location is in fact almost 1 1/2 "arrow widths" above perpendicular :-O !!
HERESY ???
No - this is the BOW telling Mark where it's unique-to-each-bow-in-each-specific-situation "Sweet Spot" is.
And this is Mark LISTENING to his bows.
:-)
Let me know if I've answered your question!
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
so you are not putting the end off the nock at your eye each time you shoot you are just looking down the arrow?
Erin,
At this ONE SPECIFIC (SHORT) DISTANCE, it just so happens that my "stringwalking gap" is so large (about 3 fingers wide) that when I anchor under my chin, the arrow nock is quite high up - nearly at my eye level.
For LONGER distances (say 40m, 50m or more) this "stringwalking gap" is much SMALLER so that the nock ends up LOWER on your chin.
CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS TO SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING:
Watch these videos:
1. th-cam.com/video/LtGrXt_rJBI/w-d-xo.html
2. th-cam.com/video/Oa01moaIp7c/w-d-xo.html
3. th-cam.com/users/shortsnOr-oorR0kw
4. th-cam.com/video/MGDvz4WG8TU/w-d-xo.html
You'll see the arrow nock "float" up & down along the front of my face as I set my "stringwalking gap" and anchor...
When I'm shooting SHORT distances (eg 10m) then the arrow nock will be located VERY HIGH - almost in line with my AIMING EYE :-O ...
When I'm shooting LONGER distances (eg 40m), then the arrow nock will be touching about midway down the front of my jaw...
When I'm shooting REALLY LONG distances (eg 70m+) then the arrow nock will actually be at the BOTTOM of my chin...
When I'm shooting REALLY LONG distances (eg 90m+) then the arrow nock can actually be BELOW my chin completely !
But for most "practical" ranges from 10m to 40m you'll find that the arrow nock is somewhere between directly-in-front-of-your-eye to about midway-down-your-chin...
Let me know if this explanation helped you !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Stringwalking in many compititions is not legal to use .. like in field shooting in the traditional class.. Rule AC 22.14.5
String and face walking are not allowed.
• A single anchor point shall be used.
• While shooting the archer must touch the arrow with the index finger against the nock.
Tmoan...
What do "rules" like this tell YOU?.
To me they speak of biased, "clicque-ish" behavior - the OPPOSITE of "inclusive".
To make matters worse, it all gets labeled "traditional" - as if there were ONLY ONE tradition??
. It's an insult to all Asian forms of archery, whose techniques PRE-DATE European forms by MILLENIA.
Me?
I ENJOY competing against ALL forms of Archery, and learning that each method was developed & perfected out of a specific SCENARIO: long-range non-urgent, short-range urgent, hunting, warfare, armor-piercing, you name it. And jist becauae shooting along a LINE at a TARGET ISN'T one archery form's forte' DOESN'T make it "inferior" and doesn't mean that practitioner DOESN'T want to see-what-his-form-can-do...
All OPINION, of course.
And MY opinion is worth what anyone else's is - and no more than that ;-)....