Team associated rival mt10 diff service, how to guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a basic video of how to access and change or top up the differential fluids on the rival mt10 whilst i was fitting new bearings
Sorry its a bit of a long video but its for the new to the hobby people
for uk viewers rc bearings are now my personal go to supplier for the winter servicing of our fleet
www.rcbearings...
The chassis skin is from Basher Skins and looks almost as good as it did when it was fitted in april 2023
www.basherskin...
Just done my front diff thx to your video, already done centre when stripped spurr so just need to do the rear, thx so much for sharing content like this is perfect for me as a newbie 👍👍
I'm happy to hear it's been of use, yeah the spur is the Achilles heel of the car due to the mount system but my top tip is to check the gear mesh monthly it takes 5 minutes compared to an hour rebuilding the car
Excellent video, I just followed it and did all 3 diffs.
I just installed the center diff a little different and found it more easy.
Thanks.
Thanks for reaching out, I'm Glad it helped, yeah post filming this I've realised it's easier to go the longer way, pop the drive shaft cover and move the motor away so the teeth don't engage then install the centre diff on the splines first and line the drive shaft up,
Great video ,the only one i found who disassemble all diffs. This will be very helpful for a lot of people! It was hard to see but how much oil should i use? :)
Thanks I'm glad it helped, it just needs to cover the spider gears (literally just) much more and you've got a sticky mess to clean up and you can accidentally dislodge the seal (which was the case with my partners mt10 from the factory)
Nice video, extremely helpfull, this is the exact same setup as the v2 mt10.
thanks, yes the chassis is the same the only changes for the v2 are cosmetic (the mt8 style body and the removal of the side step/ exhaust nerf bars on the sides of the chassis)
Hello, thanks for the detailed video, the condition of the differentials is as it came from the factory or you had previously maintained them
Happy to help, that was factory and about 18 months of abuse before I serviced them
Hello, what set of good quality screwdrivers can you recommend that allows me to extract the differentials, tires, drive shafts, drive shafts, change servo, change to RPM arms and for all the basic actions to keep the Rival MT10 operational?
The size of the hexagonal pieces needed would be 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 to be able to disassemble the entire car?
Additionally, could you recommend a set of screws to have as a reserve for the Rival MT10 since it seems to me that the ones that come are somewhat fragile.
@@WidmanEncarnacionArellano I've just got a cheap set from an Amazon return reseller for my impact driver (used for extraction only) and a set of Aldi Allen keys for the manual stuff but wiera drivers are good although I am looking at the I-fixit driver kits as they have a lifetime warranty for both the standard and micro drivers
Great video mate i need to replace my spur gear as its stripped, have you had this issue or maybe mine was just a little loose when i got it
Thanks I'm glad it's helping people,
Out of our 2 cars I had 1 strip due to the motor mount moving creating a bad gear mesh which is the cause of 90% of the bust spurs, (but that was the original that was 12 months old and was a failed front flip) and the other I swapped because it had picked up some debris
The mesh is easy to reset once you have the car rebuild and the access cover behind the motor mount off (check the pinion is in line with the spur and is tight before you start)
Loosen the sprung bolt on the top,
Place a strip of paper between the pinion and spur (normal printer paper will do)
Firmly press the motor down so the paper is gripped,
Tighten the sprung bolt as tightly as you can then flip it over and tighten the small bolt on the underside of the chassis by the rear arm,
Then with the car flat on its wheels turn 1 to feed the paper out from between the spur and pinion then replace the cover and you'll be up and going again (pencil lead is a good dry lube as grease would attract too much debris due to the poor seal around the guard)
Another option to consider custom RC upgrades are producing a slightly modified motor mount out of quality alloy (personally I'm going to try add another bolt to the stock one and see if 2 will hold better before investing)
@@brontecountryrc amazing mate thanks for the info can't wait to get it sorted, appreciate it man 👍
Happy to help,
Can you tell me if the center diff is have plastic tooth?
Yeah the spur is plastic (but if the mesh is set properly and checked as part of your pre run checks you'll have it last over a year of abuse) and the internal gears are all metal
You did the fluids weights according to the manual, what would you recommand ohterwise, i heard heavier oil in the center diff is good
Thanks for the questions, thicker in the center helps keep the front end down giving more of a 50/50 distribution but running heavier wheels I've left the fluids as is due to the higher loading until the next annual service where I'll try tuning the diffs but I kind of like the looseness of the rear and wheelie's. My best advice is to take to Facebook and look up the 2 rival Mt10 groups, there's guys on there that are constantly adjusting to suit their driving styles that will be able to give you weights that'll work for your style
I hope that helps
Wow amazing video tho these look s preety tricky dunno i could fit cva s on mt10
The axel is fiddly but once you've done one and got the nack the other set will fly in, I've shown the best way as in the past I've pulled the diff with the half shafts still on only to have to remove one later in order to get the other back in
Hello, I'll say I'm new to the hobby b'coz it's totally different to I recall it as a kid 30 odd year ago. Not much patience short attention span no experience in fixing things. I keep braking my mt10, it was supposed to be tuff I keep braking the skid plate and front diff case, it's the second time now.. How do I fix this problem, any suggestions iv upgraded a few things but this is the problem I have to try sort out. Any advice/ help would be really appreciated. Thank you very much.
Thanks for reaching out, both our cars have the original skid plates and diff cases, the hack we found to work came from hardcore RCs channel and that's to soak the car entirely in gt85 by wd40 (not wd40 it doesn't quite work the same) all but the tyres inside and out give it 2 or 3 liberal coats (about an hour or so bettween coats) then leave it overnight to soak in the plastic then wipe off the excess then leave it 24 hours to completely dry then you should be good to go, now I'm guessing you're breaking them in the skate park/ BMX track off some gnarly landings or hitting nature's jungle gym for RCs another tip would be to slow things down and learn the car on small bunny hops because air control is harder to master on 2s than 3 which leads to gnarly landings when you run out of rotational momentum but 3s has more control of momentum which unfortunately leads to faster crashes if you go harder than expected to get the rotation now I'm not sure what battery you're running but you sound like you just need to build your skill with building experience long grass/ soft dirt is your friend in this process, even Kevin Talbot started small to hone his skills to land successfully without major damage on every landing and this all takes time so have fun and enjoy achieving your little wins to get to the big goal
I hope this helps buddy
Is it easy change pinion or spur on these an adjust motor
Yes it is, the spur is a 1 size deal that's just held with 4 bolts and the outdrive, the pinions are easy you have 2 ways to access
The bottom if you're doing a diff service or if you're not release the motor plate it's only held by 2 bolts (as you'll need to change the mesh if you're changing the pinion size this is the way to go)
Kinda tires u got there bud?
They are belted jetko tomahawks
Dang man. You have to figure out your mic!
Yeah I know I had a charge wire running from above and it ended up dangling in the wrong place and rubbing the mic, I didn't even notice until I was editing 😞 but the issue is fixed the charge cable has been shortened and rerouted also a better mic has been purchased
Thanks for watching the video