You don't mess around. Your videos are so helpful. Thanks for sharing the removal and installation of the front end. It's most helpful watching you actual do it. Thanks for the great content. 👍
First and foremost thank you! I bought a MJX rc for my 4yr old son as suggested by others. Was a blast on the golf coarse. He mastederd that one quick. So I bought the MT10 brushed for $200. Perfect for both of us. Ran 20 packs a peice through it. For Christmas I bought him an arma gorgon. Once he get his then im upgrading the mt10 for myself. Castle 1415 5mm combo, hoss cv shafts, 19t 32p, rocket fan, HR 12‐17MM 10MM offset, sledgehammer tires. Been learning off your channel. It has helped us without a doubt more than any one. Keep on Keeping on brother. Thanx
Big thanks for love! I'm happy you've found these videos useful. Going to be bringing my mt10 out again, just waiting on parts. I recommend upgrading the motor mount plate. It has a nasty habit of easily bending. When it does, it'll lose gear mesh and destroy the spur gear very very fast no matter how much you tighten it. Custom RC Upgrades has came out with one made of much better metal. I wouldn't get the m2c carbon fiber one. It flexes too much.
As a newcomer to the hobby who just got a MT10 last week, THANK YOU! There are so many recommendations to check diff fluid levels before the first bash, but no step by step how-to’s i could find. Insta subscribed to this channel. Now I just need to figure out how to access the front and rear diffs…
Major thanks! Next week videos will be front and rear diffs. Currently uploading today's video right now. I try to upload every Friday and Sunday morning.
Haha, I tried to change my centre diff fluids today and guessed which screws to remove to remove the rear assembly. Well, I removed the right screws alright but could not figure out why it is not coming off. Turns out I just needed to pull harder. Now my Barbie MT10 wheelies again.
nice vid. Wish i could figure out whats wrong with my mt10 took it off a little jump the other day and then it started clicking front one of the front wheels
One of 3 things might have happened if you can't see obvious signs of wear when taking it apart. 1) internals may have been damaged 2) case has stretched causing poor internal gear mesh, 3) gearbox has stretched causing poor crown to input gear mesh. I had this same problem just recently. Couldn't figure it out. Replacing the case, housing and internal gears solved my problem. Diffs can be difficult to diagnose.
@@marknewton9691 I ran mine like that, making the noise in the diff for months before I finally fixed it. I figured if I couldn't find the problem, make the problem worse so it's easier to find. Now the rear on mine is doing it! Lol
Mine after a frontal crash it really had great resistance while driving. After checking it al the inside of the motor was filled with pieces of plastic and when I turn the motor by hand it had a lot resistance. How can this happen?
@@Dolphchristiaan If I'm understanding you correctly, sounds like the stator (in the motor) might have delaminated itself and came apart. This usually happens from too much heat, or a damaged motor-can from impacts, over-volting, over gearing, too big of tires, lack of maintenence or bad bearings. Other things can cause it too, but these are the main factors I've experienced that caused my stator problems. To be honest, i don't think that's your problem. Electric motors will have resistance to a point from the magnetic field they use. After a hard front impact, the motor mount can shift, causing bad gear mesh. A bad gear mesh, can cause resistance. Then it'll chew up your plastic spur gear. Maybe that's the plastic you saw? If the mount plate is bent, it'll do the same. Check both thoroughly. I think you need to tare it apart and examine it more closely. You might have a bad spur gear, and bent motor mount aswell.
My MT10 seems to turn into a FWD for a while then back to 4WD again. sometimes makes a grinding noise stop it for a few seconds and away perfectly again. must be the centre diff at a guess but ive never had it to bits before to see.
@@captaincouldverc thanks. ill get some oil ordered and take it apart. yeah ive only owned it for maybe 2 months and never checked any diff's or anything.
@@captaincouldverc what oils would u recommend putting in the diffs. not bothered about it pulling wheelies all the time but it seems its running more on the front than back now
Big thanks Chase! I'm trying to figure it out. Sunday's video was a new learning curve. Learned voice over and adding more music. Even my first attempt at an action edit to end it off. Hopefully I don't blow out anybodys eardrums lol.
Captain Could've RC yeah I’ve always like voice overs too. More straight to the point. Is there a reason you use the electrical cleaner and not regular parts cleaner?
@@chaser1357 Great question chase! The reason I use it is due to the regulations of California which weakened the formula of parts cleaners. We can't the good parts cleaner like almost everybody else gets. All we get is the non chlorinated versions or whatever it's called and it doesn't work as good. The electrical cleaner is just more available here in my location and works better than the California compliant parts cleaner.
You don't mess around. Your videos are so helpful. Thanks for sharing the removal and installation of the front end. It's most helpful watching you actual do it. Thanks for the great content. 👍
Thanks buddy.
First and foremost thank you! I bought a MJX rc for my 4yr old son as suggested by others. Was a blast on the golf coarse. He mastederd that one quick. So I bought the MT10 brushed for $200. Perfect for both of us. Ran 20 packs a peice through it. For Christmas I bought him an arma gorgon. Once he get his then im upgrading the mt10 for myself. Castle 1415 5mm combo, hoss cv shafts, 19t 32p, rocket fan, HR 12‐17MM 10MM offset, sledgehammer tires. Been learning off your channel. It has helped us without a doubt more than any one. Keep on Keeping on brother. Thanx
Big thanks for love!
I'm happy you've found these videos useful.
Going to be bringing my mt10 out again, just waiting on parts.
I recommend upgrading the motor mount plate. It has a nasty habit of easily bending. When it does, it'll lose gear mesh and destroy the spur gear very very fast no matter how much you tighten it.
Custom RC Upgrades has came out with one made of much better metal.
I wouldn't get the m2c carbon fiber one. It flexes too much.
Thanx I was looking for one but had no luck.
Thanks for this video!!!!!! This video series is very useful and full of tips.
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm glad you found this useful.
Useful video, thanks. Please do a front and rear diff disassembly and oil video.
I will be doing that video soon. Winter is here, which means its time to bring back the "Build and Babble" series. Season 2! 😆 🤣
As a newcomer to the hobby who just got a MT10 last week, THANK YOU!
There are so many recommendations to check diff fluid levels before the first bash, but no step by step how-to’s i could find. Insta subscribed to this channel.
Now I just need to figure out how to access the front and rear diffs…
Major thanks!
Next week videos will be front and rear diffs.
Currently uploading today's video right now. I try to upload every Friday and Sunday morning.
Just got my mt10 and wanted a quick video to get into the diff and make sure its good to go.. thank you for this!
Welcome to the channel buddy, I'm happy you found this helpful.
Thanks for watching.
@@captaincouldverc ill be watching anything related to the mt10 definitely 👍
I appreciate your MT10 content, dude. I like your mods too, very inspirational.
I love my MT10, it's a badass.
Massive thanks bro!
I'm glad you're enjoying the mt10 series.
Stay tuned for Sunday's vidja.... it's going to be epic!
Haha, I tried to change my centre diff fluids today and guessed which screws to remove to remove the rear assembly. Well, I removed the right screws alright but could not figure out why it is not coming off. Turns out I just needed to pull harder.
Now my Barbie MT10 wheelies again.
Yeah, it requires to get a little rough with it. Sometimes a small twisting motion helps too.
Glad you got it figured out! Thanks for watching!
nice vid. Wish i could figure out whats wrong with my mt10 took it off a little jump the other day and then it started clicking front one of the front wheels
One of 3 things might have happened if you can't see obvious signs of wear when taking it apart.
1) internals may have been damaged
2) case has stretched causing poor internal gear mesh,
3) gearbox has stretched causing poor crown to input gear mesh.
I had this same problem just recently. Couldn't figure it out. Replacing the case, housing and internal gears solved my problem. Diffs can be difficult to diagnose.
@@captaincouldverc hmm i just got it out to check and it seems to have stoped ill have to take it out next week and see if it dose it again thanks
@@marknewton9691
I ran mine like that, making the noise in the diff for months before I finally fixed it. I figured if I couldn't find the problem, make the problem worse so it's easier to find.
Now the rear on mine is doing it! Lol
Mine after a frontal crash it really had great resistance while driving. After checking it al the inside of the motor was filled with pieces of plastic and when I turn the motor by hand it had a lot resistance. How can this happen?
@@Dolphchristiaan
If I'm understanding you correctly, sounds like the stator (in the motor) might have delaminated itself and came apart.
This usually happens from too much heat, or a damaged motor-can from impacts, over-volting, over gearing, too big of tires, lack of maintenence or bad bearings. Other things can cause it too, but these are the main factors I've experienced that caused my stator problems.
To be honest, i don't think that's your problem. Electric motors will have resistance to a point from the magnetic field they use.
After a hard front impact, the motor mount can shift, causing bad gear mesh. A bad gear mesh, can cause resistance. Then it'll chew up your plastic spur gear. Maybe that's the plastic you saw? If the mount plate is bent, it'll do the same. Check both thoroughly.
I think you need to tare it apart and examine it more closely. You might have a bad spur gear, and bent motor mount aswell.
My MT10 seems to turn into a FWD for a while then back to 4WD again. sometimes makes a grinding noise stop it for a few seconds and away perfectly again. must be the centre diff at a guess but ive never had it to bits before to see.
Sounds like it's the center diff.
If you've never taken it apart, you're probably low on fluid. When you take it apart, inspect the gears and pins.
@@captaincouldverc thanks. ill get some oil ordered and take it apart. yeah ive only owned it for maybe 2 months and never checked any diff's or anything.
@@captaincouldverc what oils would u recommend putting in the diffs. not bothered about it pulling wheelies all the time but it seems its running more on the front than back now
@@GazUK828
I would start with 50k in the center and 30k in the front+rear.
@@captaincouldverc thanks captain ill get onto that right away :)
You’re getting the videos fine tuned
Big thanks Chase!
I'm trying to figure it out. Sunday's video was a new learning curve. Learned voice over and adding more music. Even my first attempt at an action edit to end it off.
Hopefully I don't blow out anybodys eardrums lol.
Captain Could've RC yeah I’ve always like voice overs too. More straight to the point.
Is there a reason you use the electrical cleaner and not regular parts cleaner?
@@chaser1357
Great question chase!
The reason I use it is due to the regulations of California which weakened the formula of parts cleaners. We can't the good parts cleaner like almost everybody else gets. All we get is the non chlorinated versions or whatever it's called and it doesn't work as good. The electrical cleaner is just more available here in my location and works better than the California compliant parts cleaner.
Captain Could've RC wow. That’s horse 💩
@@chaser1357
Just another reason to hate the failing California bureaucracy.