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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Brake Pad Replacement. This video shows you how to change the brake pads in a 95 Ford Windstar. This process will work for most fords, especially from the 90s. The basic brake change process is similar on most other cars.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
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Thanks. I am a 50 year old lady and I followed your video and it was a great instructional video. I changed the pads all by myself in about an hours and 15 minutes. Thanks again!
No you didn't.
Excellent. No ambiguity whatsoever. If someone is trying to teach how to replace something, this is how it should be done. Explain what we are doing and why we are doing. Thank you.
KISH KUMAR Thanks a lot! Glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
KISH KUMAR Exactly. It was very clear, detailed and with good and clear video and audio!
ChrischrosBelgium Thanks a lot!
KISH KUMAR how to get the air out of a front brake caliper a 1990 Ford van how to get the air out of front brake caliber of a 1994 Ford vanished
Bro you’ve come a long ways. That’s awesome 👏🏼
That is awesome! Make sure you keep learning and try your hardest! It isnt easy to become a good mechanic. Anyone can be a lazy, bad mechanic, but the good ones are few and far-between! Keep it up and thanks for the comment!!!!
ChrisFix calipers
Thank you SO much for your instruction style. I watched 3 other videos to learn how to do this and they all went over things like they were speaking to someone who knows what they're going. You took time to speak on details without speaking down and taking time to take the camera and SHOW those details. Changed my front brakes on my Mustang for the first time in my life successfully thanks to you! Great job !
Excellent! The shop wanted $260 to change my front brakes on my Ford E150 van. I watched this video, spent $45 for pads, two packets of grease and a c-clamp because the parts store didn't sell the basic affordable tool for compressing the piston. It took one hour from the time I got the jack out until I was test driving the van. I even took time to clean things well. I recommend the advice someone else in the comments section gave " Remove the cap from your brake fluid reservoir and use the old brake pad as a flat surface for the c-clamp to squeeze on". I did it that way and it works no problem. I only lost maybe 1/4 a cup of fluid while compressing the piston. Next time I will put a towel around the reservoir to catch the fluid. Thanks for a great video!!
Irideon Andon You dont have to remove the cap (it vents itself) but using the old brake pad is a great idea, and I learned to do it that way ever since. My newest video I am working on will have that step in there! Glad the video was helpful and you saved a ton of money and now you know how to do it yourself!
I was looking at the trashed ball joints thinking when I get home to my computer tonight, am going to look for a video showing how to replace them. They r right there and don't look too complicated.
Did you watch this video?
How to Replace a Lower Ball Joint (short, quick version)
When pushing pistons remember to unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to release pressure.
You wouldn't to mess up the master cylinder.
This is a great video. I love the visuals. You get close up and the view is clear. Your description is clear and easy to understand. Thank you.
Wow Chris didn't have the best tools back then.. you can tell he was just starting out.. but this was so informative. Thanks Chris!!
AWESOME! Congrats on changing your brakes and saving money! Glad I was able to teach you something new!
Great video, BUT beginners need to know two more things. #1 - When you push back the piston in the caliper, the brake fluid may very well overflow the reservoir on the master cylinder. You need to know how to deal with this. #2 - You need to pump up the brakes in order to make sure the pads are in contact with the rotors before you start driving. Very important. There is nothing like the feeling you get when the car is moving and you step on the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor and you can't stop. Also, the tool for pushing back the piston as shown in the video is being used incorrectly. It should be positioned to push down in the center of the piston, NOT on the edge as was shown. If you don't understand anything in the video, or what I have written here, please get the work done by a professional. A incorrectly done brake job can be a matter of life or death. No kidding. Good luck.
I forgot to pump my brakes after a job on an 85 Aries, and I ended up in the ditch. Could have been worse.
Alexzander Nathan haha for real?
As well, make sure not to touch the rotor with grease ( like young Chris did ).. if you do, clean right after with the brakes pad cleaner.
@Why Bother Should be no reason to open the master cylinder reservoir, other than to allow air on top of the fluid level to escape as the fluid level rises. You really shouldn't add fluid to the reservoir between brake jobs. The level will go down as the brakes wear down, and by the same amount. So when you retract the caliper and push the fluid back into the reservoir, there won't be any excess fluid to spill out. Here's something to think about... DOT3 brake fluid is anhydrous. That means it will pull water out of the air, thus contaminating the fluid and causing oxidation (rust and corrosion) throughout the brake system. DOT4 fluid is only slightly better. Both are the best paint removers ever invented. Every precaution needs to taken to clean up any spillage immediately! However, DOT5 silicone fluid (red in color) Is inert and will not burn. (Did I mention that DOT3 is flammable too!). DOT5 will not boil up to just over 5000 in elevation. So, not anhydrous, won't eat paint, temperature and dimensionally stable, non-flammable. I changed to DOT5 silicone fluid when I updated to disc brakes on my 4x4 van after thoroughly cleaning out the brake lines and rear wheel cylinders. That was just over 200,000 miles ago, with no issues whatsoever. So why then don't manufacturers make DOT5 standard equipment. Seriously, unless you're driving to the top of Pikes Peak every day, I can't come up with any reason not to.
If it's time for new pads, it's also time for fluid replacement.
ok so we all love ChrisFix videos- but have to admit is fun to see these older..ok really old videos of his. Still good info.
that was awesome... sad to say i've been 'THAT GIRL" who took stuff to the shop to get fixed and stood while they babbled about stuff i didn't care about... now i care about it, and i want to do it myself... i had heard the WORDS before, but never knew what a rotor was, what a brake pad looked like, what a caliper was... thanks... i took my whole expedition electrical apart and put it back together, i think i might just be ready to take on the REAL mechanical stuff... thanks - great video!
one less rat No problem! This is an older video of mine. Check out the new version that goes into greater detail: th-cam.com/video/lU6OKQxSg8U/w-d-xo.html
already there man, i was up til late last night sucking up information... BUT since i have you, to make my 2003 ford expedition last FOREVER, i change the oil, and have 'THE GUYS" look at it once in a while, but what servicing can i do to make this truck last as long as possible - i had wheel bearing issues on my little trailer last year - i didn't know what a wheel bearing WAS until then. so what should i check/maintain in the truck and how often. i figure if it costs me the same amount to buy a tool and the parts as it would for someone else's labour, i'm way ahead. better than fixing it AFTER it's broken! so brakes, do you have to take them apart to check them or after so many miles, or just have a peek at the pads when you change the tires for the winter... ball joints - i sort of know what they are, but i know they need looking after... i can do just about anything if i have someone like you showing me how... so.. thanks, first vid i saw where i felt i could do it!
one less rat Just check the brake pads for wear everytime you do a service and tuneup by removing the wheel and visually checking - you don;t have to remove the pads to inspect them (which should be every 5-10,000kms or 6 months).
Thanks much .......... I used to take both bolts off and played heck trying to get them back on ............ duh, never thought of just taking one off and swiveling up ........ you just taught an old dog a new trick ........... God Bless and Keep up the Good Work
Brilliant video. Chris Fix, you gave me the confidence to change the front pads on my Mondeo ST200 (Contour SVT in the States). I have done oil & filter, plugs, fuel, cabin & air filter, plus removed my upper and lower intake manifolds to clean but never dare attempt brakes... until now. First side took an hour from start to finish, other side 20 minutes. Tip for others, I used one of the old pads to lay across the piston when using the rewind tool. Thanks again, probably saved me £50.
+yt7954 Thanks a lot! Glad the videos were helpful!
Those 95 Windstars are classics. Good job on these disc brakes.
Thanks! Im glad it helped! If you have any trouble just reference the video or comment and I can try to help!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, in a 'real' way. I didn't feel like you were 'talking down ' to me. Just simply instructions from a regular guy. Felt like a friend was helping me out. You have a great style, just being you. Many thanks for the video, keep 'em coming!
Thanks man! Means a lot! Glad I can teach you!
@ChrisFix bro at 3:06 the brake pad has like a piling burr in the corner….I bought a second hand car and the brake pads are thick like new but they have the same burr in the corner except it’s like 4x bigger than what you show in your video; would cheap pads not bedded correctly after pad slapping old rotors cause this?
Or could it be normal on new pads?
Nice video. I am going to replace my 1999 Ford Windstar front brake pads shortly.
This video helps me a lot. Thanks.
Huh... Good to know. Thanks for the information. I have never seen that on any of my fords or fords I have worked on, but I guess there are many types of Fords out there.
Your videos are a life saver. I can't even imagine how much money you have saved me with your awesome informative videos. Thank you Chrisfix. You're Awesome.
Awesome! Glad the videos are helpful!
Follow-up comment, changed the brakes on my car yesterday and it all went smoothly thanks to this video. Thank you for making it!
Thank you for this video, I showed it to my wife. She fully understands what I am talking about to do this repair.
This video is and direction is perfect for someone who has never changed brake pads. Great guy, Thanks!
That is a very clear video of how to change brake pads. If I feel brave enough I will give it a go.
Here is an even better one: th-cam.com/video/6RQ9UabOIPg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nuLwNwhwHp25ZM_E
thanks for brake changing demonstration. Very helpful. I have a Ford F 150 . I still may not do it myself but at least i can shop around for a reasonable price since i now understand that its not too hard to replace brakes. Thanks again
+george36lopez This will be even more helpful: th-cam.com/video/lU6OKQxSg8U/w-d-xo.html
hey man, a little tip I learned from racing dirtbikes.. when u compress the piston back in, crack the bleeder and let that old fluid behind the piston come out.. it sits behind the piston and when the brakes get hot, it boils the fluid and breaks it down.. instead of pumping it all back up into the system and contaminating the rest, just squirt it out. long as the reservoir is full and u tighten the bleeder b4 u take the clamp off, u wont even need to bleed them
Haha, well at least it is easier now! Thanks for the comment! Thumbs up the video if you haven't already!
Awesome. I use to do the same for my bicycle when I was 15 but with this video Chris, I can rest.
That's an excellent tip. Also, try putting the old pad between the tool and the piston and then just push in the middle. That way you'll press it in directly and won't damage that seal on the piston.
Great! I am glad the video helped!!! That is the idea and comments like this are great! Please thumbs-up the video if you havent already. It helps others see this video when they search for it on youtube!
I will eventually! Its the same procedure just have to unbolt the caliper bracket.
Thanks heaps Chris, i'm in the middle of changing my pads but got confused, after watching your very well explained video i'll have no troubles, thanks again :)
Don't forget the Ford rear brakes are different the piston rotates clockwise with a special tool. Good job Chris/
Should have watch before I started took it all apart instead of just hinging it open thanks made my night a lot easier
I would like to thank you for this video which has been a great help to me as my brakes on my ford kuga needed attended to.
Great! Glad the video helped! That is why I make all of these how to videos!
It will be the same. It is disc brakes right? Most disc brakes are so similar that this process will work!
What a difference between the older video's and the new ones still awesome love your videos all the best 👍👌
Mate just did my Falcon ute . Bloody 40min . Cheers from Australia
These videos really help me since I went to collage to do motor vehicle mechanics, so it's good that there are videos keep my knowledge up.
Adam Lawrence Glad the videos are helpful Adam!
Thank you, your straightforward no BS direction had me change my front brake pads today.
Great Video. When compressing piston, I use a small piece of wood and a C Clamp. I apply even steady pressure on all sides of piston without creating any damage to piston. Also I clean and inspect slide pins and put new Synthic High Temp Caliper Grease. Also open Master cap to help in decompession.
JT Quick Thanks and thanks for the tips! This was one of my first videos! Check out my newer stuff: th-cam.com/video/lU6OKQxSg8U/w-d-xo.html
all done bro, you make easy. when I pull out tire I found stabilizer bar link broke. tha was the hard part.. but finally got it all done thanks a lot
Thanks... I've had five Windstars and still drive my 2001 SEL.
Chris, been following for about a week now, but 2 things. 1) The pison tool shouldn't be used on the edge of the piston as you showed, it should go down to the bottom middle of that piston (and also, don't try this on the back piston as that requires a special tool). 2) You should crack the Master Cylinder cover to release pressure. I know this is an old video, but people are still watching this. If you don't crack that master cylinder top open you are building up an extreme amount of pressure.
+WreckDiver99 Glad you subscribed and thanks for the tips!
VERY WELL SHOWN AND EXPLAINED SO ANYONE COULD BE ABLE TO DO IT. GREAT VIDEO . I RECOMEND THIS FOR ANY BEGINNER .
Dude it was freezing out! hahah
jus switched mine out for the first time because of this video super simple super easy.
+Charlie Anthony Awesome! Now this video will help you up your brake game: th-cam.com/video/xJDOuZzEAQc/w-d-xo.html
Great video man. .....I think I'm ready to replace my brake pads
I started to hear a grind yesterday without warning. Man, this sucks. I'm in the middle of moving and am at the end of my cash until the end of the month. Thanks for this video. I'm going to buy the cheapest pads in the morning and try this out. It looks doable, but then I hope the last mechanic didn't tighten the lugs too much. (fingers crossed)
By the way, I hear a grind while on a slow roll. (2012 Transit Connect XLT). Anyone have any ideas why that may occur? I'll know more tomorrow hopefully. But in the meantime, I wonder why that would happen. :(
(I swear I didn't know this was coming. Maybe I was getting a squeal, but I always have the radio on.)
Did you unscrew the cap off your master-cylinder reservoir (where you put the brake fluid)? Sometimes that does the trick. If not, then I would try pumping the brakes... Are you using the tool I used in the video?
This is an early ChrisFix video. He has a newer and better one covering rotor replacement in addition. It would also be good to let viewers know how to tell they need brake service in the first place, pad thickness, rotor wear and thickness, etc. Also how to find out how to and how much to torque nuts and bolts. His later videos are much more organized and comprehensive. He inspires confidence and is a true treasure to DIYers.
Thanks, give the video a thumbs up if you havent already. Helps make the video more searchable!
97 Ford Escort here. Thanks again
Thanks for the great video. Watched it before changing pads on my 2003 Ford Ranger. Some slight differences... my pads had built in shims and didn't come with grease, but I had already bought some grease for the pads anyway. I'll certainly watch your updated one when I feel the need to change my rotors.
Basic good vid.
Just a few pointers.
Open the brake fluid resovoir BEFORE pushing piston in .(use cloth to absorb excess fluid)
Use the old brake pad on the piston face to ensure the piston goes back squarely.
Grease the caliper sliders with Red rubber grease !(nothing else)
Use a TORQUE wrench !(of course there is vibration on brake systems !!!!)
Use anti sieze compound on the (rusty) rotor face before reassembly.
supersesqui Thanks man! And thanks for the tips!
Don't forget to apply blue loctite (medium strength) to the caliper bolts. Even properly torqued bolts can loosen due to vibrations. Another good note to apply is opening the caliper banjo (bleed) bolt while compressing the piston, which will remove any contaminants that have resided in the bottom of the brake system (which are the calipers); fortunately this method doesn't require bleeding the brakes as long as you don't decompress the piston and suck air in, gravity should push any air out. And before even compressing, it may a good choice to slightly lift the caliper piston dust seal to check if there's any brake fluid that is leaking past the square cut seal in the piston bore. One final note, if your pads don't fit snug on the bridge of the caliper bracket, you will need to remove any rust build up with, preferably, a wire wheel on a drill, so long as the area is 'smooth' and clear of buildup that could cause residual force from the pads or poor braking.
quakelegion Thanks for the tips!
ChrisFix No problemo, you keep up the the good work, I'm sure these videos are saving people hundreds of dollars.
thanks man! i wish all fix it videos were this well put together
No problem and thanks! Remember to give the video a thumbs up if you haven't already (it helps me out).
yea no problem. how come you didn't bleed the brakes? i just changed my front passenger side word for word and everything went fine, but i cant get the passenger side piston to go in for the life of me
You dont need to bleed the brakes if you dont take off any brake lines. If you cant compress the piston, crack the bleeder valve on the caliper and then try compressing the piston. You will need the bleed the brakes when you are done if you do that.
ChrisFix sweet, gracias
Best video on youtube for changing brakepads
Thanks man
Awesome!!! Glad the video helped!!!!
thanks chris for a good, simple perfect way to change brake pads.thax again
amrit pal Singh You are welcome! Glad my video was helpful!
Used a high powered drill and the caliper cube and w-d 40 behind the boot to get the piston in.PUSHED LIKE HELL WILE DRILLING and it finally went in.
I hope you see this comment lol. I literally just went to channel to check for new videos already seen the fix winshield so i looked for a video to do brakes on my 94 mercury cougar xr7 has the 4.6 same as ur gt and im scrolling through videos and picked yours didn't realize untill i heard "hey guys Chrisfix here"
Hi ChrisFix
I really love and learn from you. Please this video need to close caption.
Thanks.
Always clean brake parts with fluids and not air or brushes to keep the dust from becoming airborne. Brake dust contains asbestos which you do not want to breathe! Keep up the vids
+PrankingThePeople Thanks for the tip!
Gonna try this on my Cousin's Ranger next week. Thanks for the info. Thumbs up & subbed!
Really enjoyed the video, and oh, your video skills really have improved over the years and I love em all!
Thanks man! Glad it helped!
excellent straight forward video instruction.
top job
Did you bleed the brakes? If you change the caliper you need to bleed the brakes. What is happening to your brakes when you press on the pedal?
Great!!!! That is awesome!!! I'm glad it helped!
This video was very helpful. I was nervous to do the job myself but it was really easy. Thanks for the video Chris👍🏼
+Ivan Failach Awesome Ivan! Glad the video was helpful!
I love your videos I am always recommending my girl wacth your videos your communications and instructions are amazing and easy to follow
No, you only need to bleed the brakes if you change the calipers. Just changing the pads does not introduce air into the system.
Very nice video well done easy to understand went over everything you need to know to save me and my family a lot of money thank you.
+Hagan C Awesome! That is the goal!
Dude you did a fantastic video. Great with angles that NEEDED to be shown and all the little things that people can easily get caught on you covered no problem. I'm subscribed
Thanks
Your videos are awesome I have never even seen the under side of a car before and I just got a 1992 ford f 150 and it need all new brakes I have a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind messaging me
Thank you ChrisFix Ive been a subscriber for a while now
And I watch your videos because
They are always high quality and clear to listen to and understand
I did my brake pads today and it was easy thanks to your video
😁👌
+Kevin Nguyen Awesome! I am glad the video was helpful and nice work changing the brakes out!
Wow Chris. Night and day difference between your current day videos and this one lol
Love this video, thank you!
I'm going to try this for the first time on my '98 Explorer.
Thank you for great video. I hope you make a video showing how to change the rotor too.. You make it easy and explain it so well, Thank you.
Amazingly impressive video instructions UNTIL you get to 7:40 where your use of the caliper tool is a completely wrong. NEVER put pressure on the edge of the caliper piston! You want that tool (or any other tool) CENTERED with the caliper piston .... try this: back off the threads of the tool with enough gap so you can temporarily put back one of the old pads across the caliper piston. (you'll soon be pressing the old brake pad, rather than directly on the piston) This provides smooth and even pressure across the caliper piston's full diameter. (you're together pressing both the pad/caliper back in place.
I was already a subscriber of yours btw. You are a very talented producer with these videos, with very detailed information that others would simply overlook. The camera angles and lighting is superb. No one is perfect, so I hope my comments did not offend you.
Thanks for your time and effort!
Best video very simple and to the point
Thanks a lot Steve!
@@chrisfix 92 ford taurus wagon i got the passenger side off and done it was a touques bit i didnt have went to the store got them go over to the drivers side and its an allen key to get the caliber off why ford why lol...but thank u for saving me money brother
Yea, that is definitely the better way to do this!
Watching on your latest movies, I can tell for sure that you made a great improvement :-)
I'm doing this tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Great! Let me know how it goes! Glad the video was helpful! Remember to give the video a thumbs up if you haven't already (it helps me out, thanks).
hahaha wow can see how far you have come since this style video. no greetings, no hey ppe, no gloves... so weird!
Right? So much more goes into a video nowadays!
@@chrisfix i actually had to double check it was you, but it is nice to see you fumble a bit sometimes.
Seeing this, and the reply makes me respect where your channel is so much more!
Thank You I will be doing my brakes in the morning great video thanks again
No prob! Hope you learned something from the video!
Thank you so much for this video.
Great intro to brake changing.
Lawrence Fitzgerald No problem! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
Very helpful. Just replaced the b-pads on my Ranger. Learned that the 'piston depression tool' uses the 'next to the piston' pad. Also, my brake fluid had a slight over flow. No worries!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much Chris. That was a great help. I'm pretty confident to replace my break.
Great! That is my goal! Good luck!
Thanks man you saved me a lot of money . Great video
DIABLO MODE Awesome! That is what I like to hear!
No prob! Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video. Quality was great and made a lot of sense. Thanks.
+Jdymock187 Glad the video was helpful!
Awesome video man very helpful thanks for showing it like a guide for dummies I learnt a lot
james hibbert Thanks James. That is how I make all of my videos! Glad it was helpful! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
A well presented video. Gonna go and change my break pads now :)
Great! Glad the video was helpful! Remember to give the video a "thumbs up (it helps me out, thanks)!
excellent brake replacement video !
+Silicon Valley Engineer Thanks!
Fantastic video. Thanks, you have given me the confidence to change mine now.
Thanks! Good luck. It is really easy and once you do one, you can do them all! Let me know how it goes!
Thanks Chris. It gives me the confidence I've needed. Great instruction. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge .
Great! That is the goal of all of my how to videos!