This was kool, I'm going to replace a clutch in a 1950 deluxe and I didn't want to pull that rear end back, so this is a big confidence boost to knock it out, thanks
The transmission on a cabriolet is not so easy. The transmission must be turned/rotated and angled in order to come out. And after installing the transmission in a cabriolet the shifter/arm cannot be reinstalled when the transmission is in place. The "X" frame makes working on the transmission, master cylinder and vacuum a real challenge. Just saying that working on the transmission on a cabriolet is a pain in the , er, well behind. More reason to get a shop manual. I appreciate your expertise and great videos. They continue to be a joy to watch.
Thank you for posting this....I’ve got a cabriolet and couldn’t figure out why I had all the extra bracing under there. I’m a novice trying to pull the transmission just to service the okie bushing...
Watched the transmission and clutch series to help me with my 53 bel air, I broke a bolt trying to tighten the flange down and just extracted it today so I can replace my seal. just as I’m refreshing my memory you upload a follow up video! I dropped my driveshaft because I don’t have access from the floor like you. Thanks for the help!
@@TheJayhawker I’m actually have trouble with my okie seal right now being too big as well like in your video. Do you have an email I can contact you on to seek help with measurements?
Thanks again for these videos. If I change my 51 truck trans from a 3 spd column to a 4 spd floor shift, also from a 51 Chevy pu will there be enough adjustment in the torque tube/drive shaft to make it work? My friend found a complete rolling chassis for me. Brian
Your torque tube video shows a problem with the okie bushing fitting into the t- tube and it needed turned down to fit. My 47 chev did not have a full length bushing, so I don't have anything to compare with the new diameter of the bushing. Would you just go ahead and turn down the size of the new bushing as you performed in your video? I am stumped. Please help! Hope I made sense! Thanks !!
Good video but I am confident enough to try and do this job. Do you know anyone or any shop in Houston Texas that works on torque tubes? Any info would be helpful.
How much movement is allowed at the pivot point? Im currently cleaning mine and about to install. Curious cause i want to put air ride on mine .so it would need to pivot at least 6-8 inches. As long as the pinion angle is ride height for best function.
Putting in an okie seal . Got the ball socket back and have the u joint separated and can’t seem to get the yoke back far enough on splines so the yoke and torque tube will clear the cross member . Tried pry bar etc but won’t go back just enough to clear . At a point to try to take some metal off cross member to clear it ?
I don't remember if you told me previously what kind of year and model you are working on. Some of the 40's models had a perfect notch cut out of the transmission cross member to let the u-joint slip past it. You may consider doing that. If not you could also remove the spring bolts from the non-shackle end of the springs so that the whole assembly can swing back and forth for you. Sorry for the long wait.
@@TheJayhawker got it done but this 48 fleetmaster has been in the family since new with 65,000 miles on it , thus the original seal and bushings were in with 2 dowels plus the oakie had to be milled down on the back raised area and the front also . Had the yoke pounded as far back as it would go and use two jacks to tease the tube down front and back plus take some extra off the cross member to get it to clear . Was quite the procedure , however we are complete and seems to be good to go. The front part of the okie became jammed in the tube , pipe wrenching and using the tool finally removed it and specked it to fit and went well then . Thanks for you 48 chev TH-cam series all very informative and helpful JLC
I noticed on my 48 stylemaster was kinda leaking from the transmission and ball part I drove one day and I heard a hard clunk and wouldn't come out gear and wouldn't move then checked the transmission had a Crack on the housing part removed the driveshaft to see what gave out any idea what could of happen to or how it got out of place and the u joint to come apart from transmission?
When you say to “remove the linkage arm off the cover” are you saying to remove the bolts and remove that whole piece or is there a way to just take the “arm” out of then end when pulling it out? I’m trying to service the propeller bushing and my frame cross member won’t let me drop the drive shaft so I have to remove the transmission. Your videos are extremely helpful! God bless!
I got a question for you. I got my 49 running but 3rd gear pops out. What can I check first I also have an extra transmission. Any recommendations should I rebuil the one extra? Any ideas would be great.
So this leads me to my own question I have a one year length torque tube is there a way to swap one into a different axle being mines been exposed to rain internally and I doubt it's any good
I have a question that I really hope you can answer. I have a 1927 Tall T with a 350 and a 3 speed manual transmission (not too sure what kind, reverse is to the left and up, 1st straight down, 2nd right and up, 3rd straight down) Anyways. Driving it one day doing 35 and it all of sudden lost power to the wheels while still engaged in 2nd the engine was still running. When I pushed the clutch in you could feel the transmission wanted to engage. With the clutch out you could shift through every gear as if it were in neutral if you pushed the clutch in and tried to shift it’d just grind…. Any ideas?
47 GMC with a 216 and 4 speed. First drive and when i went to shift into 2nd gear, no noise or clunk but it is as if it is in neutral. Clutch feels fine, shifting feels fine but i had to push it back into driveway and was able to in gear. Truck rolls in gear. Something disconnected or broke? What should i check first?
assuming this is all stock transmission with floor shifter. I would suspect the clutch first. Take off the bottom inspection cover and see if you can see anything obvious from there.
Nice video. I'm in the process of replacing my clutch. I'm somewhat stuck trying to backoff the torque tube. I have a 50 car. Would I need to loosen the collar nut thats on the torque tube so it will slide back?
It is possible to slide it back without loosening the collar, esp if the tube is nice and clean. But I would always loosen it and take the tension off of the seal. Thanks for watching.
My first guess would be broken or loose bolts. Second guess u joint is completely loose and worn out and perhaps transmission is low on oil so the u-joint wasn't getting oiled.
Watch my two earlier videos on the torque tube. Once you have the ball adjusted correctly with the paper shims it will seal up nice with the cork gasket.
Hi I have a 49 Chevy with a 216 and 3spd on the column. Can I convert my torque tube to a regular driveshaft if I plan on switching rearends? Thanks in advance
You would need to come up with a later transmission to accommodate the driveshaft as well. I would have to do some research to find out if there was a later 3 speed that would bolt up to the old bell housings, Correct size and splines on the input shaft would be a concern as well.
Yes the torque tube is riveted to the "hogs head" or diff. case. So you would need to take apart the ball assembly and u-joint at the transmission and unbolt the differential at the rear axle and pull it apart. I get all such parts at chevsofthe40s.com. If I remember correctly the you need to pull the pinion out with the entire driveshaft attached from the torque tube and then knock out a pin that holds the two together.
@@TheJayhawker I believe I have 4.10, looking to do the 3.55 swap. Looking to stay as original as possible. 52 deluxe sedan with torque tube. Pain in the rear. But thanks for your videos.
Has anyone else seen the shaft inside the tube snap by chance I think mine did yesterday. I can spin the shaft inside freely with both tires on the ground
My first suspect is that the pin that holds the rear end of the shaft to the pinion gear broke. Another, but not likely, is that the ring and pinion have completely worn out and have lost contact. But you would have heard some serious noise leading up to this. And then the third is what you suspect, your drive shaft broke. No matter what the case you will have to open the rear end.
@@TheJayhawker Its my 17 years old car daily driver he heard a bang and that was it no go we pushed it in gear yin neutral no noise.so when I took it apart that's it I can doing the shaft in the torque tube I assume that's a one piece shaft from pinon to u joint on back of trans
Thank you for details,old school knowledge, priceless! Just bought 51 Chevy deluxe and will have to do a clutch eventually!
This was kool, I'm going to replace a clutch in a 1950 deluxe and I didn't want to pull that rear end back, so this is a big confidence boost to knock it out, thanks
Awesome video. Working on a 42 special deluxe. This helps a lot!
The transmission on a cabriolet is not so easy. The transmission must be turned/rotated and angled in order to come out. And after installing the transmission in a cabriolet the shifter/arm cannot be reinstalled when the transmission is in place. The "X" frame makes working on the transmission, master cylinder and vacuum a real challenge. Just saying that working on the transmission on a cabriolet is a pain in the , er, well behind. More reason to get a shop manual. I appreciate your expertise and great videos. They continue to be a joy to watch.
Thank you for posting this....I’ve got a cabriolet and couldn’t figure out why I had all the extra bracing under there. I’m a novice trying to pull the transmission just to service the okie bushing...
And do you mind elaborating on the transmission arm? Am I to leave it on and wiggle it out?
Watched the transmission and clutch series to help me with my 53 bel air, I broke a bolt trying to tighten the flange down and just extracted it today so I can replace my seal. just as I’m refreshing my memory you upload a follow up video! I dropped my driveshaft because I don’t have access from the floor like you. Thanks for the help!
What model/year do you have? Just curious about not having a removable cover. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJayhawker 1953 bel air, not sure if it’s supposed to have one or not. But it doesn’t
@@anthonyvalerio6665 Oh, no probably not. That was a newer body style that Chevy introduced in '49.
@@TheJayhawker I’m actually have trouble with my okie seal right now being too big as well like in your video. Do you have an email I can contact you on to seek help with measurements?
@@anthonyvalerio6665 ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com I simply took measurements from the old one and turned the new one to match.
Thanks again for these videos. If I change my 51 truck trans from a 3 spd column to a 4 spd floor shift, also from a 51 Chevy pu will there be enough adjustment in the torque tube/drive shaft to make it work? My friend found a complete rolling chassis for me. Brian
How do you know when the paper bushings on the ball are at the right tolerance. Thanks.
Your videos have helped alot thank you
Thank You for posting this
I have a 51 chevy sport coupe. Can the torque tube be removed from the rear diff. ?
Your torque tube video shows a problem with the okie bushing fitting into the t- tube and it needed turned down to fit. My 47 chev did not have a full length bushing, so I don't have anything to compare with the new diameter of the bushing. Would you just go ahead and turn down the size of the new bushing as you performed in your video? I am stumped. Please help! Hope I made sense! Thanks !!
Good video but I am confident enough to try and do this job. Do you know anyone or any shop in Houston Texas that works on torque tubes? Any info would be helpful.
How much movement is allowed at the pivot point? Im currently cleaning mine and about to install. Curious cause i want to put air ride on mine .so it would need to pivot at least 6-8 inches. As long as the pinion angle is ride height for best function.
Putting in an okie seal . Got the ball socket back and have the u joint separated and can’t seem to get the yoke back far enough on splines so the yoke and torque tube will clear the cross member . Tried pry bar etc but won’t go back just enough to clear . At a point to try to take some metal off cross member to clear it ?
I don't remember if you told me previously what kind of year and model you are working on. Some of the 40's models had a perfect notch cut out of the transmission cross member to let the u-joint slip past it. You may consider doing that. If not you could also remove the spring bolts from the non-shackle end of the springs so that the whole assembly can swing back and forth for you. Sorry for the long wait.
@@TheJayhawker got it done but this 48 fleetmaster has been in the family since new with 65,000 miles on it , thus the original seal and bushings were in with 2 dowels plus the oakie had to be milled down on the back raised area and the front also . Had the yoke pounded as far back as it would go and use two jacks to tease the tube down front and back plus take some extra off the cross member to get it to clear . Was quite the procedure , however we are complete and seems to be good to go. The front part of the okie became jammed in the tube , pipe wrenching and using the tool finally removed it and specked it to fit and went well then . Thanks for you 48 chev TH-cam series all very informative and helpful JLC
I noticed on my 48 stylemaster was kinda leaking from the transmission and ball part I drove one day and I heard a hard clunk and wouldn't come out gear and wouldn't move then checked the transmission had a Crack on the housing part removed the driveshaft to see what gave out any idea what could of happen to or how it got out of place and the u joint to come apart from transmission?
When you say to “remove the linkage arm off the cover” are you saying to remove the bolts and remove that whole piece or is there a way to just take the “arm” out of then end when pulling it out? I’m trying to service the propeller bushing and my frame cross member won’t let me drop the drive shaft so I have to remove the transmission. Your videos are extremely helpful! God bless!
Hey. I pulled the transmission out like u suggested. I’m trying to remount it and it won’t go in
I got a question for you. I got my 49 running but 3rd gear pops out. What can I check first I also have an extra transmission. Any recommendations should I rebuil the one extra? Any ideas would be great.
So this leads me to my own question I have a one year length torque tube is there a way to swap one into a different axle being mines been exposed to rain internally and I doubt it's any good
What about 05 rendezvous know anything about the torque tube on them mine has loud bearing
Can I take transmission out from the bottom with out removing the seat and do have a video on it
Also I doing a 3 speed to a automatic same year transmission with the adapter or spacer for starter
I have a question that I really hope you can answer. I have a 1927 Tall T with a 350 and a 3 speed manual transmission (not too sure what kind, reverse is to the left and up, 1st straight down, 2nd right and up, 3rd straight down) Anyways. Driving it one day doing 35 and it all of sudden lost power to the wheels while still engaged in 2nd the engine was still running. When I pushed the clutch in you could feel the transmission wanted to engage. With the clutch out you could shift through every gear as if it were in neutral if you pushed the clutch in and tried to shift it’d just grind…. Any ideas?
47 GMC with a 216 and 4 speed. First drive and when i went to shift into 2nd gear, no noise or clunk but it is as if it is in neutral. Clutch feels fine, shifting feels fine but i had to push it back into driveway and was able to in gear. Truck rolls in gear. Something disconnected or broke? What should i check first?
assuming this is all stock transmission with floor shifter. I would suspect the clutch first. Take off the bottom inspection cover and see if you can see anything obvious from there.
Nice video. I'm in the process of replacing my clutch. I'm somewhat stuck trying to backoff the torque tube. I have a 50 car. Would I need to loosen the collar nut thats on the torque tube so it will slide back?
It is possible to slide it back without loosening the collar, esp if the tube is nice and clean. But I would always loosen it and take the tension off of the seal. Thanks for watching.
What can cause the u joint to come apart from the transmission while driving ?
My first guess would be broken or loose bolts. Second guess u joint is completely loose and worn out and perhaps transmission is low on oil so the u-joint wasn't getting oiled.
Thanks for the info. it was very interesting.
How would you know the ball joint is tight enough not to leak from the gasket pls help
Watch my two earlier videos on the torque tube. Once you have the ball adjusted correctly with the paper shims it will seal up nice with the cork gasket.
Hi I have a 49 Chevy with a 216 and 3spd on the column. Can I convert my torque tube to a regular driveshaft if I plan on switching rearends? Thanks in advance
You would need to come up with a later transmission to accommodate the driveshaft as well. I would have to do some research to find out if there was a later 3 speed that would bolt up to the old bell housings, Correct size and splines on the input shaft would be a concern as well.
Great video thanks
Thanks for that!
Not easy, how many paper shims usually do it? How to determine clearance!
I have two previous videos with the same project on the subject where I go over that, check 'em out. thanks for watching!
Do you need to take the drive shaft out to change the ring and pinion gears? Who has a torque tube rebuild kit available?
Yes the torque tube is riveted to the "hogs head" or diff. case. So you would need to take apart the ball assembly and u-joint at the transmission and unbolt the differential at the rear axle and pull it apart. I get all such parts at chevsofthe40s.com. If I remember correctly the you need to pull the pinion out with the entire driveshaft attached from the torque tube and then knock out a pin that holds the two together.
@@TheJayhawker I believe I have 4.10, looking to do the 3.55 swap. Looking to stay as original as possible. 52 deluxe sedan with torque tube. Pain in the rear. But thanks for your videos.
Has anyone else seen the shaft inside the tube snap by chance I think mine did yesterday.
I can spin the shaft inside freely with both tires on the ground
My first suspect is that the pin that holds the rear end of the shaft to the pinion gear broke. Another, but not likely, is that the ring and pinion have completely worn out and have lost contact. But you would have heard some serious noise leading up to this. And then the third is what you suspect, your drive shaft broke. No matter what the case you will have to open the rear end.
@@TheJayhawker
Its my 17 years old car daily driver he heard a bang and that was it no go we pushed it in gear yin neutral no noise.so when I took it apart that's it I can doing the shaft in the torque tube I assume that's a one piece shaft from pinon to u joint on back of trans
Great video, thanks. BTW Jeremiah was and is right.
Jeez, torque tubes suck.
Hmm. Factory driveline, 80 years and still going....
@TheJayhawker that's awesome!! Mine works very well but I fear the time when it won't, lol. Any advice you could give would be much appreciated!