Part 4: 1929-1954 Chevrolet Torque Tube Driveshaft - Installing an Okie Bushing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ม.ค. 2020
- Torque tube driveshafts on Chevrolet's from 1929-1954 require bushing and seal maintenance to guarantee good service.
In this video I show you how to remove an old Okie bushing and install a new one.
Credits:
"The Way You Want It" a Jam Handy Production (1950)
The Geico "So Gross" Middle School Girls
Great videos. I have a 1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery that is unmodified from original drivetrain except a replacement Chevrolet 6-cylinder motor. It has not been customized so it looks stock. Your videos are very educational on maintaining the vehicle. Thank you.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos on the older Chevrolets. They remind me of my old days, working on the Chevy. I do have a constructive comment on the clutch install. I found it helpful to lubricate the inside of the throw out bearing. It can bind up on that flat portion of the transmission input shaft when things get hot. Keep up the good work, the series are very entertaining.
Thanks so much for watching!
Thank you for taking the time to make a helpful video like this and making it fun to watch. I have a 54 Chevy truck leaking externally and it looked so foreign to me when I’m used to traditional u-joint in modern trucks I wasn’t sure where to start
Happy to have helped. God Bless Texas!
Jay, Can't thank you enough for your info on the Oakie bushing. I'm so glad you put the dimensions on the video. My replacement bushing was the exact size of your correct numbers. Great job with these videos. Take care and stay safe.
Not a problem, thanks for watching. God Bless
Thx so much for your great video on the torque tube seal replacement. I just bought a 40 Chevy Master Deluxe 2dr Sedan recently. I'm in the process of doing the same thing. Thx again!
Sure I’m glad you posted this project as I need to repair my 52 Style line
This is so much help. Great video. Nice job.
Glad to hear it!
As I replaced the bushing on my '47, I came to realize just how valuable your video was! I also had to machine the new Okie bushing to get it to go in - and having your dimensions was a HUGE help! Mine had the original bushing for the yoke - I had no original Okie bushing to measure. After turning down the knurled/ribbed area by 0.010", it slid in nearly all the way - and without your video, I would have had no idea how much to turn it down. There was another issue, though - I was hammering away and the bushing was just bouncing as the largest area should have started into the tube. My old yoke bushing measured 1.723" OD, but the corresponding area on the Okie bushing measured 1.727" OD. I stuck it back in the lathe and took 0.004" off, as well as adding a very short chamfer on the rear edge of the Okie bushing's largest area. After that, it tapped on in! I could not have done the job without your help!
That's great that you got it! I'm not sure why there is such a discrepancy but hey we adapt and overcome, right?
Yup! We use available resources and think things through - and I'm glad for the resources I have! I'm wondering if the u-joint in my car was an intermediate design, as it had no needle bearings. The replacement u-joint from Chevs of the 40"s not only has needle bearings, but it has much less axial play and looks as though it will keep the drive shaft yoke centered behind the transmission yoke better.
Just discovered your channel. The videos are excellent.
Thank you I was wondering about the bushing, now I know
Well done, great video. Helped me big time with my 51 3100. Thank you.
Great to hear it! Thanks for watching
Glad to help and that you liked it, thanks for watching.
This is a great video. Too bad I didn't see it a few weeks back when I needed to work on my 1949 Chevy 3100. Take care.
Great job and tutorial. Prob get rid of this old stuff tho!
Excelent!
Thank you !
You convinced me man I’m going to replace the entire drive train I’d be easier than working on that Torque tube
Thank you.
What info do you have on rear end differential vent valve? Our have (apparently) never been removed or any maintenance done on it. I've removed it and I have not been able to detect any airflow when blowing air into it. I've cleaned the best that I can, dipped in all kinds of degreasers.
I have a 1951 GMC pick up, needs to replace this but no idea what it was called, thanks a lot.
Question, why would a stovebolt 1951Chevy 235 start a slight misfire every now and then only when its running for a long while at a slightly hot operating temperature?
Hey Jay - thanks for the great video. I'm right at this stage myself on my 1950 GMC 1/2 ton, & having similar measurement issues with the new Okie. My question is - how much did you take off with the lathe in total? Did you bring the knurled end from 1.718 right back to 1.705 - or did you leave it a bit larger? And did you take anything off the front end? Thanks
I would say yes bring diameters to OEM sizing or of old part you pull out.If need to be!
Question: Do all the early 50s Chevy come with a torque tube? I had to replace my seized straight 6 engine with another which drives and works fine (replaced with an automatic). But, the car doesn't go in reverse. After watching your video, does my car need a torque converter? I was told it needed a transmission kit and a torque converter to rebuild it. Is this true?? Thanks
Do you know where I can find the felt seal?
Thank you so much for the effort you put into this video! I have a '47 Fleetmaster and the manuals I've seen not only don't go into the Oakie bushing/seal situation (or the original design), but they claim the u-joint has needle bearings ( actually calling out the number of them per cup ). I see that yours, like mine has no needle bearings, but the u-joint at Chevs of the 40's mentions needle bearings. Do you know if they changed the design to eliminate the needles, or was later info on needled bearings included in the manuals I've looked at? The illustration in your video - where did you find that? Thanks!!!!
I'm honestly not sure what the deal is with the u-joint and needle bearings. If you email me ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com I will send you a copy of the illustration. (It's actually GMC)
Thank you for doing these videos, this kind of work is becoming a lost art. How did you get the dowel pin out? Did it have to be drilled?
Normally you would drill it out, however this car in the video already had the original bushing replaced with an okie. So there was no dowel pin to remove. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a 54 belair automatic with no motor or transmission, dose a yoke go to that then hoses into the transmission spindle? Thank you
Hello There, I'm on minute 1450 and i need to know the name of the part on the top left any idea where I can get that? I'm not from the US and mine is broken, i need one ASAP
Jay, How did you get out the dowels without them falling back? Did you have two? Near the tip and about a foot back? Just at a point I need to do this to my 40 Chevy. Thanks
I just watched to the end and it answered my question. Sorry, so dumb!
Question how would I know wen the plate is tight enough so it won leak out threw the plate
Would this be the same on a 1950 3100 pickup truck
Where did you purchase the new bushing and seal from if you do not mind answering? I do not have the ability to turn a newly bought item like this bushing
Any machine shop in your area is able to do it for you. Transfer old OD SIZES- to new BUSHING ,SIMPLE AS THAT. eBay have all the time this part for sale.
Have you ever encountered a drive shaft that is larger past the splines? I have a 47 early 1/2 ton that I tried to replace the Oakie bushing and had to turn down just like the video but when I attempt to drive it in, it goes all the way except about 2" then it bottoms out on the drive shaft that is raised. Do you know of an oakie bushing for this application? Anyone else have this experience?
Thanks
Is it possible that you're actually seeing old brass bushings that have been pushed farther in until there is no longer room for another one on the shaft? Just an idea. As far as I know the same bushing should work for just about any car or 1/2 & 3/4 ton truck.
Do you have to pull the trans to replace the small seal on the tube?
Do you mean the seal on the outside of the tube or the seal on the inside that is part of the okie bushing? If you have a car lift you should be able to disconnect the u-joint, remove the front bolts on the rear springs and rotate the tube down enough to work on it. Just be careful and work smart lowering the tube down. Also keep the brake lines in mind and made sure they don't bind and pull. If you don't have a lift you have a choice, you can pull the trans or you can drop the rear axle and tube. Personally, if I didn't have to remove the trans, I wouldn't. I would much rather pull the axle out from under the car and work on it out in the open.
Thanks for your help. Can the torque tube be removed from the rear diff. I am having trouble getting the torque tube bushing out it is not pinned .I am thinking of pounding it out from the back. Any suggestions would be helpful.
The tube is riveted to the rear axle housing and it therefore can be removed but from what I have read it's not a great idea. My guess is that they assembled it and then line bored it, at least as far as where the bushing/ bearing surfaces would be perfectly lined up, and getting it back together it exactly the right spot may be an issue. You should however be able to pull everything out from the axle housing and do what you need to do without taking apart the tube.
I would also be willing to send you my okie bushing removal tool if you would get it back to me in a reasonable amount of time.
@The Jayhawker thanks for the reply. I have a bushing remover but it does not grip the bushing properly it slips. If you could send me yours that would be helpful. Let me try once more. I will get back to you. Thanks.
Great video, do you know of any videos out of changing out the ring and pinion on a closed diff with torque tube
No, I don't perhaps I'll do one....if I ever run out of projects
@@TheJayhawker yeah I have a 4.11 and I would like to go with the 3.55 but I have no idea how the torque tube and diff comes apart, well sort of , but I would sure like to see it on video
Hi thanks for your great videos I am subscriber. (The Dowel pin) how do you remove that? Also because im in the UK I will not be able to get an oakie remover tool. Am I right in saying that you can get a new Oaky bushing fit the bushing with the rubber seal on the opposite end then face the new Oakey bushing over the old one in the drive shaft and drive the old Oakey bushing towards the rear with a mallet untill the new bushing is flush where the old one is? basically fitting the new Oakey without removing the old Oakey. I really appreciate your help.
I don't think you can get two oakie bushings in there, but then again I have never tried. Perhaps you can fabricate some long thin arms for a regular puller to get in there. Here is a link to pretty good instructions: www.fillingstation.com/articles/torquetubebushingreplace.htm
Great video. But is it possible to replace the okie bushing without removing the transmission. Thanks.
Yes, undo the ball assembly from the back of the transmission and you can swing the front end of the driveshaft down enough to do the job. It would be much more convenient on a lift rather than on jack stands but it can be done. Also, if your on a lift, depending on how far you want to pivot the tube down it would be helpful to remove the front shackle bolts on the rear leaf springs. Just have a stand ready to hold the weight of the tube.
Can the okie bushing be replaced with engine and trani on place ? What do i need to know ?
Yes. Remove the ball flange and slide it and the ball back as far as it will go. Remove u-joint bolts and slide it back on the driveshaft. The torque tube will now be able to swing down. Pull the u-joint assembly off of the driveshaft and you can remove the ball and flange too. Now you can easily access the bushing.
Can the Hokie bushing seal be replaced without having to replace the whole Hokie bushing assembly? See, I do not have the machinery you have to mill the Hokie bushing OD.
I assume so, if you can use a very small screwdriver or something to get it out of there without to much damage. You should be able to take it to a parts store or a bearing and seal specialist and get it matched.
Dumb question, would I just be able to replace the seal on the oakie bushing?
If you can pop it out of the bushing in one piece you should be able to get a part number off of it. Go to a bearing and seal supply store to help you out with finding one.
Good morning. Would you know of any sites or person selling a torque ball? I took mine down and it is in bad shape.
a quick search found this: www.angryautogroup.com/product/1952-chevrolet-deluxe-84/
but I don't know what year your car is. Maybe if yours is older a phone call to those guys would help.
Other than that I would try ebay or depending on the damage to yours, I would try to repair it.
Thanks so much for these videos. Can’t tell you how much I’ve relied on them for replacing everything between the block and the torque tube on my 1954 Chevy 3100. My project is halted however because of that darn okie bushing puller that nobody can find. Jim carter, classic parts, Chevy of the 40’s, etc, they’re all back ordered for months.
Does the offer still stand on being able to rent yours? I’d be happy to send you whatever fee you’d like to cover it. Thanks again for all the help
I would be happy to help, email me at ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com and we'll figure something out.
Also search for the store "zamcotoolsusa" on ebay. They have several "bushing driver and installer kits" available that look exactly like the okie tool. You would just have to contact them to see if they have one about the same size. They are also the same price! Let me know!
1948 Chevy Truck 3100 series short bed. We have oil leak on the outside at the ball pivot point (lots of oil.) Can the Universal Joint Kit P/N 5151 be installed with out having to reemove the engine? Can the Okie Bushing and seal assembly be replaced without removing the engine? I hope not. Probably much more difficult with engine installed.
Yes it certainly can be repaired with the engine and trans. in place. Put it on a lift or as high as you safely can on jack stands and you can drop the front end of the tube down far enough to work on it. Another option is to remove the shackle bolts from the leaf springs, undo the brake line at the rear axle and the parking brake cables and roll the entire axle and torque tube out from under the truck to work on it.
@@TheJayhawker Just to let you know that my experience (now) is that on a 1948 Chevy pickup truck you need to remove the transmission rear support assy that crosses horizontally. The way you did it on the chevy car will not work due to poor clearance between the cab floor and the shadft assy. The cross member has 5 bolts / nuts / washers on the left and 5 on the right. That will allow you to drop the shaft assy to allow removal of the bell housing. And yes you have to use a block of wood and sledge hammer to get the bell housing of the shaft housing.
Tid bit: Whoever replaced the universal and or the seal / gaskets (decades ago) did not install the universal joint bolt locking plates. One dropped off and was chewed up by the rotaional speed of the shaft assy and a second bolt was about ¾ way off. You can guess the consequences if that second bolt dropped off.
Is there a 4 speed transmission that was made in the 50's that will marry up to the torque tube in a 1953 Chevy 3100 truck? I have 3 on the tree and want 4 on the floor. Already have 3.55 gear in rear with torque tube (bought it that way). Thanks for doing this video.
Pointedranger' if you can source the technical information' Patrick's antique car and truck parts out of Arizona used to sell a conversion kit that allows you to swap a Saginaw 4 speed transmission into the original torque tube drive shaft cruising speed's on the highway was no problem once the conversion was done as it totally changed the driving and shifting character of the vehicle. Unfortunately Patrick's have went out of business for parcurious reasons' I've talked to Patrick and his son a few times about it and he always told me that they were machining up some more part's and would have them ready for shipping but for some reason I could never get an definite date on when, both are really great and knowledgeable guy's and very fun to talk and chat with, so I don't have anything bad to say about them. I can say that I learned a lot from just talking with them which was priceless' I would call some of the old schools gearheads like Butch's rod shop or Sid's axles with that question they may be able to help you or steer you in the right direction since they came up in the same area and arena' or if you're ok with the internet get on board with the H.A.M.B and ask the question as I was told buy Patrick Dyke's himself that he sold many of them so I'm quite sure someone has that conversion laying around
I have the 4 speed the person is looking for. Did you push the rear back to do your work? I have a hard time finding parts. What parts system are you using?
@@howardiko7156 Hello Howard according to the parts catalog that I have from Patrick's antique parts doing the conversion using the 4 speed Saginaw you didn't have to move the rear end back or anything as it retaind the original torque tube drive line location.
On my 1951 GMC long bed, I don’t see any dowels on the tube or can’t find them, I read that GMC was only pressed in, I made a tool to pull it out and it was really hard, I finally ordered the actual tool, nobody had it, any suggestions on why is it so hard? I cleaned the tube with sandpaper and looking for some circles like dowels and don’t see nothing, any input will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Does it look like yours is about a 6" long oakie bushing or the original bushing that is probably only a couple inches long? If it has been replaced with an oakie bushing already then there wouldn't be any dowels anymore. As for the tool, have you tried chevsofthe40s.com or the fillingstation? they usually even let you rent them. Yes they usually are very tight, the one I took out was actually very stubborn, if you can put tension on it with your tool, hold a hammer on one side of the tube and lightly tape on the other side of the tube it should slowly break loose and come out. Also if yours is the original short bushing I think you can just drive it in behind the new oakie bushing but you may want to look into that, I'm not positive about a GMC.
@@TheJayhawker thanks for the reply, I got the tool coming from Jim Carter already, and like I said the tube is really clean to a point that you would be able to see some small circle or circles If there is more than one. There’s a lip about 1-1/4” in, that’s where is grabbing, does that sound about right?
How can you tell if the bushing needs to be replaced? or should you just replace it because you have the torque tube apart. Been enjoying your channel! thanks, B
If there is obvious slop between the driveshaft and the bushing you want to replace it. The primary concern is for the seal. If the driveshaft is allowed to flop in a worn out bushing, it will wear out the seal. If the seal is worn out it will allow the gear oil from the transmission all the way down to the differential and your u-joint will run dry. If the bushing is ok, you can just replace the seal. Thanks for the good question!
@@TheJayhawker Thanks for your reply. I am still trying to find someone nearby to rebuild my 3 spd trans or a replacement to bolt in that space so I am sure I will have more questions for you. B Col 3:1-4
Well working on CHEVY 1941 pickup and I found 2 harden dowel pins ,1 in ring-spacer at the end of tube and second in area of OKIE bushing. All assembly -complete dif. is on my bench doing upgrade,but have no way to pull or push dowel pins out and remove OKIE bushing for replacement.Any body have idea or experience to finish the job.
Just back to removing and than installing new parts. Pins ( only preharden) where swagged in the tube, I drill and tap 10-32 NC places and remove end ring out and 2nd pin was about 6" to the back on tube. Blind hole there going nowhere..This going back with use of some goop at the bottom of the wall of the tube.Don't want any leakage of oil there down the road. OKIE bushing was floating??? by time to the bottom of narrow outer TUBE and hitting inner drive propeller (drive shaft) in radius transition between spline 1 1/8" in diameter and main shaft bigger diameter 2"+-. Wont move to push into inside tube!! will fine out why when I going hopefully pull OKIE bushing to the back of whole shaft. Home made puller 3/4" threaded bar and some washer turn on lathe to fit front (seal area) and thick washer at the and of tube.Going to report after.
Well OKIE OEM bushing I pull forward to the front of dif. tube,after few tries back and forth. Rear opening for dowel pin I close with original pin with set screw in it and braze it in please to prevent oil leak. I don't going to use dowel pin in new version of OKIE bushing,just press fit as per video here.
do you have to pull the trans to get a drive shaft out of the truck?
No, unbolt the ball flange, pull back the ball, and then unbolt the trunnions on the u-joint from the yoke on the rear of the transmission. If you want the drive shaft all the way out you will then need to unbolt the rear leaf springs and roll the rear axle, driveshaft, and wheels out from under the vehicle.
I have a 51’ with a 411 rear end. I found a 51 rear end with 355 gears installed. My question is can I leave the yoke at the transmission in place and slide the new torque tube with the spleen into the yoke?
I have a 48 Chevy fleetmaster, I'm doing research on restorations. I have questions concerning your fees
you can email me at ratzlaffmotorco@gmail.com if you prefer
Great video. Wish I could find a video to show me how to put a rear axle with better gears. I'd like to go faster than 45 in my Chevy fleetline. Anyone have some ideas?
Here's the url to chevsofthe40s.com and what they have available: www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/3316/Chevrolet_Ring_And_Pinion_Conversion_3551_For_Chevrolet_Cars.html
I believe this was the stock gear set for early 50's powerglide models and will bolt right into your fleetline.
My diff was leaking after I Jacked it up by the pumpkin put two jack stands a day later it was leaking after inspecting it in pretty sure this is what I messed up but on the other side
Thanks and I really enjoy your informative videos. I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 that does not have pins, locking the bushing in place. I must have a late 1950 that has a pressed in bushing. I am having issues extracting the original bushing and would appreciate if you could send the diameter of your Oakie bushing puller. The puller I have does not fit tight into the original bushing sleeve to allow me to extract using the tool that I have. I hope your puller is larger so I can get a different tool and remove and install the Oakie bushing. Thanks in advance for your help and please stay safe!
Yes I will get that for you tonight. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJayhawker This info will greatly help the folks that are in a change over time between 1949 and 1951. I will let you know if I come up with anything helpful. Thanks
Sorry I took a little longer than I said I would. The Outside Dimension of the main body of the tool is 1.360", the O.D. at the end of the fingers is 1.400". I hope this helps you.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks for the measurements and I will check against the tool that I have. Have a great evening!
Good morning and maybe you could take one more measurement? When you expand the end with the insert piece what is the measurement of the end that catches on the lip of the bushing? I have a tool that does not work for my application and when expanded the end (at the widest location) only expands to 1.408. It pulled out the bronze guide but would not grab the bushing to extract. Thanks for the help and have a great day!
Where can I get the oaky seal and tool I’m doing up my 48 chev it’s been in the family for 2 generations and my little boy is keen y to I get the car fixed he is only 6 years old and loves his pops car.
Can some one supply a web sight desperate I’m in Australia?
Here in the US I go to either chevsofthe40s.com or fillingstation.com. If you call them and place your order with a sales person you can usually get a much better shipping rate through US mail as compared to the rates they provide buying from their website.
I can't find any supplier that has Okie Bushing puller. I've tried, Chevs of the 40's, Classic Parts of America, LMC, Jim Carter, but they do not have them and they state that they are out of availability or the've been on backorder for over 4 months. Tried eBay and none available. Well its a sad story. Any ideas, or I can purchase one from you if you have one. Be kind on the pricing.
Chad, Had the same experience. I think my bushing is the original so I might be able to get the front part out. Going to do more on it tomorrow.
try this part number at chevsofthe40s.com: 595005A You can rent it or buy it.
@@TheJayhawker Jay, That part is not currently available anywhere. It's backordered. Probably because of what is going on worldwide. Production lines disrupted everywhere,
@@dansalmasian8715 Oh, ok. Then their website isn't current. Sorry about that. If all else fails and you want to borrow mine email me. I'd be glad to ship it to you as long as I can get some cash to cover the cost and a guarantee that I would get it back.
Chan, I was able to get the front bushing out. Drilled out the dowel (It was easy) and push the bushing out with a punch. It also came out easy with being in there 80 years, It was the original bushing upon manufacture. If you don't have an Oakey bushing in as a replacement you can get the front bushing out and you're on your way. You can find out by 1. Seeing if the dowel is there. 2. Take a small tool and follow the bushing into the shaft and see if it drops off about 1 1/8 of an inch in. If so you have the original bushing. Hopes this helps.
Shim seal they both could be used for the same thing
This is what I got. :( The copper sleeve is out, but the main sleeve remains.
Hey Ralph hand me the tree branch I think it’ll work
Ok, go back and look at your video. You installed the new Okie bushing backwards. the seal goes on front, not the back. I know cause I owned a 1941 Special Deluxe coupe and drove it every day for 22 years and had to do most of the regular maintenance on it my self. It was the 60's and 70's.
I don't want to say you're wrong. I am just a punk kid after all. But everything that I have seen on the subject had the seal to the rear. I believe that keeps the bushings oiled up that way. If you have any info or literature showing it the other way around I would like to see it. Thanks for watching, and for watching out for me.
Too bad you can't send a BILL to these aftermarket companies for doing THEIR JOB RIGHT. With all the new tooling and computer control... it was done right 70 YEARS AGO 🤬
Or SPEND a month or two ARGUING with these companies for a REFUND or REPLACEMENT 💩