That is the first time I have seen piston assemblies installed with the caps on them. Normal procedure is to remove the cap before installing with a piece of hose on each bolt to protect the crank. Then you can install the cap and proceed to the next piston. Also, you are asking for trouble re-using that water pump. If it sat dry for any length of time the seal could dry out and leak.
Hi John, yes the rod caps was an oversight on my part, I normally put a cloth over the crank and put the cap back loosely to cover the studs. this time the rods went to engineering and they torqued the caps to spec to check them. I left them on like that not thinking about the fact that they are torqued and ended up having to remove them at the bottom. if my ring squeezer was not garbage I would have removed the pistons again and removed or loosened the caps before installing them again. and yeah.... you are also just about 100% spot on with the water pump. thanks for your advice!
Honestly I reused a factory Yamata water pump that was off of a wrecked 1997 D16Y8 with 8k miles that had sat in someone's garage since the late 90s. Installed it a Civic a couple years ago and it kept going. I've noticed the seals are more likely to fail from drying out if someone has used green conventional antifreeze rather than stock Honda or something like asian blue zerex that keeps corrosion and reactions to a minimum. If in doubt I guess you could always soak it in a water bucket before attempting to spin it.
Honda's D series (up to the D16 because the D17 sucks) are pretty good engines for a small turbo build! Easy to make 300 at the crank if you know what you're doing. This build was really fun to watch!
Bruh this whole time i thought i was watching a video on building the engine to push like 500whp, cant believe after the end I just realized its an oem build just a mini me lmao
Hi, yeah this is a budget build, so more like 200hp. I want to test the capabilities of the stock D-series motor. the next build will make 300whp, still Dseries, but with a few mods and aftermarket parts.
I build a mini me d15b2 and p08-3 head junkyards parts but no VTEC crap or turbo neither.I bored the head mild and i home made the obdo distributor by cutting and edge and i put a Weber carb with a 272 Delta cam regrind and lighter flywheel and gd clutch kit and others old school knowledge and my crx is peppy like hell responds like a beast old school style like a ford muscle car with 2 in exhaust system
Don’t use metal to pry and move parts . Do not install pistons like that . Fuel line on stud open cap . Good effort fir sure and good video . Positive comment 👍
Hi Hereinmissoula, thanks for the good advice, my first mistake was not removing the rod caps before installing the pistons. I did not expect them to be torqued to spec (done by engineering). I should have removed and reinstalled the pistons but my ring compressor tool was also garbage so I did not want to do that. I tried removing the caps with a hammer handle that was rubber but it didn't work, so I used the metal bar knowing I should not do it.
Hi Jason, yes I did start with a rubber handle of the hammer, but that did not work to well, to be honest I should have taken the rod caps off before installing the pistons, that would have made it much easier and less risky.
@@RisingBoostYT yes dear. you should take rod caps off before installing the pistons. i was wondering WTH are u doin haha and yes. next time use some soft materials to pull parts apart. love your videos btw. cheer from slovenia
So crazy thing. i went to get a fully built black right came to find out whoever it was i got it from has done it your way bro same everything just professionally
Hi Bro, sorry to hear that. it is always a risk buying a motor, it's not possible to confirm if it is "build" without pulling off the oil pan. the easiest way to check is to take off the oil cap and look at the 1 visible head stud (SOHC motors only), if it is a ARP stud, then maybe, but if it is a stock head bolt then its 99.9% probably not built. it's always best to tell the seller to remove the valve cover and oil pan so you can inspect if it is built or just for damage like a burnt rod bearing cap.
Ok, so I never touch the bearings with my finger because the oil in my skin can damage the surface. When I install main bearings I measure bearing crush just to make sure there is some. It's not as often as it was 30 years ago but some bearings have come out of the box slightly short and when torqued there was no crush. Bearing crush is what secures it in the bore. Also I put tight fitting hose over the rod stud so the cap is off when I install it and it goes over the journal right away. The hoses guide the rod over the journal with no risk of damage to the crank. You are going to use head bolts with boost. I'm not a Honda expert but don't d 16 head have a habit of lifting under boost with bolts?
Hi 3dw3dw, thanks for the helpful tips. on this build I 100% relied on the sizes on the box as I did not measure any clearances apart from ring gaps, also yes the Dseries motors are prone to lifting the head and blowing the head gasket. over boost, detonation or aggressive timing and its likely to lift. but they say stock the motor can do 220whp. so I will test that. currently running 6psi on conservative timing and no issues so far. I estimate 150hp. (before- 7psi was 163hp)
Hi Bro, yes I definitely took some shortcuts building this motor, I did not check clearances, also did not get the honda color coded bearings. I checked the bearings that came out and got the same as replacements using the logic that if it was working before it will work again, I have not uploaded the video yet, however I can confirm the motor runs just fine, so for me the risk paid off.
good day sir..i just wanna ask about torque specs, i mean how many foot pounds of torque to tighten the bolts in the rocker arm cam cap that holds the camshaft..i think there are ten 12mm bolts and four 10mm bolts in both ends..thank you so mch sir..and more power..
Hi Christian, yes you can, it is safer to do it that way. in my case I wanted to test the "piston to valve clearance" so I installed 1 piston and the crank to test. I did not show it in the video but that is why the crank was installed first.
I have never seen someone install a piston and rod with the rod cap still on? And then take it off after its in, then re install it? Please explain this to me
it was an oversight, the engineering bolted on the rod caps, and I did not think about how difficult it is to remove once installed. definitely won't recommend it.
Hi James, basically it came down to price, the rods/pistons set costs about $570, that is not bad, however I have to ship it to my country, so that adds $250 in shipping and probably $100 in fees and taxes, that's $920. so for me, the cost is almost double. so it does not make sense to really build a D-series. for that money I can rather do a Bswop and get rods for that. they say the stock rods can handle 220hp so we will keep it at that. the Bseries build is next.
@@RisingBoostYT Good call! That is expensive. I have been looking at a cheap Honda engine to build a jet boat. I need around 200-250hp for it to be fast. The Honda R18 and D17 is very cheap in Australia so I am looking at those two at the moment
@@unchartedgroupielove the R-series motors are a bit more economy-based motors, they have an eco version of vtec, not sure if an R-series will be reliable at 200+ hp continuously. D17 is slightly different from the older D15/D16 however there are Performance versions of the D17, I would opt for that, boost it to 220 but take extra care with cooling and an oil cooler because a jetboat will likely make the power for longer durations than a car.
Hi, at first no. the compression was 9.8-1 on this setup, after I added a thick head gasket making it 8.9-1. With the high compression and boost I had head gasket issues, lowering the comp mostly solved the issues.
I have a question , why did he attach the crankshaft before attaching the pistons and if it was to check the clearing of the rods then wouldn't that be done after attaching the rods to the crank?
Hi Ibrahim, I actually installed 1 piston (without rings) and the crank to check the piston to valve clearance when in vtec. it did not work out as I did not have a cambelt at the time so I did not include it in the video. so yes the install process "video continuity" may not be 100% as I did it.
Hi Randy, yes I did check it. I locked 1 intake valve in vtec and fitted the head loosely without a gasket. There was enough clearance as the valve did not even touch the clay.
Hi Bro, definitely had them in, check at about 12 min into the video you can see 1 is installed in the block, the other one is in the head. I should have mentioned them in the video.
So, is getting 177 Hp out of a D16z6 Naturally Aspirated possible without any Turbo etc but changing Pistons, porting, polishing, porting oil pump or putting in race pump cam gear etc, better header, etc. etc.? I would Love to have a Naturally Aspirated engine that' gets 177 hp... anyone know if this is possible with a D Series Sohc? Thanks!
Hi Mike, it is definitely possible and you are on the right track, however it will not be easy or cheap. making 177hp NA power with a D-series will require some serious engineering work, things like CNC porting, oversize valves, super high compression pistons, race fuel, cam, rev kit, ITB's, decent engine management. To be honest, I would recommend doing a Kswop for NA power. 177hp would be a breeze on a k-series. and depending on your location it may even be cheaper.
@@RisingBoostYT Well maybe I'll stick with the basics... I figure I can put a slightly better Piston Head with Rings to gain 10 hp, Get a skunk Manifold, port and polish everything, Better Header. port the oil pump or buy a Racing pump. Not sure if a better oil pump helps with HP but I am sure it's better for the engine long term etc. Would Love to put on new or better bearings... Maybe that would be about 140+. Is there anything else that I could do that is basic to increase HP that is N/A? Will doing a tune/working with the computer do anything to improve HP? Thanks for any tips!
Hi Mike, basics will help you gain HP, polish exhaust ports, get a good header + exhaust system, skunk intake manufold and you can also polish its runners. Get a bigger throttle body from B16 or aftermarket. The D16Z6 is basically one of the best older Dseries motors. Oil pump won't add hp but will help with longevity and reliability. If you rebuild the motor and add some higher comp pistons. A tuneable ECU will be a big help. Make sure you have a PO8 cylinder head, they say it's the best SOHC vtec head. (D16z6 comes with a PO8 sohc vtec) all the small changes will add up HP
Hi, honest answer is price, even though its not expensive in the USA, once shipping, taxes, duties and the exchange rate are added, keeping in mind on average the salaries is 5x lower in my country, it's just not worth it.
Hi Jakub, yes the D16A motors have longer head studs, 16.5mm and the D16Z/Y motors use a shorter 14.5mm stud. If you combine a A block and Z/Y head you may need 9 16.5mm studs and 1 custom long stud. I used 1 from a EG D16A6 to make my setup work
Y dose no one use the d17i turboed my d17 I haven't ran it yet but everything is stock other then block guard and are studs and some 550cc injectors and high flow fuel pump. I did put a d16 intake manifold on it. But I'm going buy a halltec standalone ecu for the car instead of hondata just in case I blow up my motor I'll drop the ecu and turbo setup in my e36.
Hi, sounds like a fun setup, I have seen a few but it is probably coz it has a bit less support and parts available, I know the D17 internals and valve train is fairly similar to the D16, just the block and head cast are different so they can't mix match with older D16 motors like the D15/D16 can. Also manifold bolt patterns are different but can be made to fit.
@@RisingBoostYT any idea on specific engine number heads ? and what are the mortifications you ran into if you don’t mind me asking? Thanks for the reply btw
Hi Abubakr, I did try to buy Plastiguage to check it, however it looks like it is not easy to find it in my country. so I checked it by installing a piston without rings, torquing everything to spec and making sure everything spins freely. it's obviously not perfect but if something is crazy out of spec it will show. it was running before and STD size bearings came out so I just put new STD size bearings back in.
thanks bro, Where did you buy it from? i'm from Gauteng, when I asked the guys at the part shop about it I could see they have no idea what i'm talking about.
Hi bro, to be honest I think its named after mini-me from the Austin powers movie, like the B20 vtec is called Frankenstein, because you putting a different "head" on a block/body,, not 100% sure but these names started popping up in the early 2000s, not sure what the enthusiasts was smoking back then but the names stuck.
Hi Fernando, the marks in the sleeves is from me doing the ring gaps, taking the rings out and putting them back into the sleeves several times to test fit, that caused the marks, luckily it's only marks and not really scratches. after honing the cylinders they get a rough surface so the new piston rings and sleeves can "seat" during the initial break-in. the marks will be removed during that. if it was scratches it would definitely not be normal.
@@RisingBoostYT it is in my case... my engine was rebuilt... and on the sleeves on the exaust side has some vertical scratches.... my ring gaps is in spec.... its normal to have scratches after a fresh rebuilt??
It depends on how deep the scratches are, normally a fresh build will have the horizontal scratches (45 degrees cross hatching) however fitting the new pistons will make marks on the new sleeves that could look like vertical scratches, it its not deep you should be fine, if the scratches are deep it could cause the engine to burn oil and breath more than normal.
@@RisingBoostYT humm...only in one cylinder can barely feel.with fingernail... new pistons and rings and oversize bore... should i remove postons to inspect the rings? On just run it ?? 😀
Hi Znul, I removed it as the one I purchased (cheap), I am not convinced that it will actually help at all. secondly I am using stock rods and head studs so if the engine was to fail, it will fail on the rods and studs long before the sleeves. because of this I decided not to use it, I may make a review video about the cheap block guard.
Hi Jim, thanks for the advice, I did remove it before fitting the head, it was obstructing coolant ports and did not even touch the outside of the block, in my opinion it would not have done anything positive. For now I'm running stock internals so the rods should fail long before sleeves.
@@RisingBoostYT good man. Save up the funds as I did (took forever lol) and send your next big build to Jeff @CNC Werx. Finish up with a vitara piston and rod build and you'll be on your way to 500HP 💛💯👍
Hi Jim, thanks for the advice, it won't be an option, i'm from South Africa, we do have similar options around here, but the market is smaller so the price is higher, I do see Darton sleeve blocks come up on occasion but not cheap,, the next motor build is a LS B18 Vtec. after that i'll start looking at a proper build that can hold some real power.
Hi, i'm definitely not an expert engine builder, but the motor is still running, boosted and making almost double factory HP with no issues 2 years later.
That is the first time I have seen piston assemblies installed with the caps on them. Normal procedure is to remove the cap before installing with a piece of hose on each bolt to protect the crank. Then you can install the cap and proceed to the next piston. Also, you are asking for trouble re-using that water pump. If it sat dry for any length of time the seal could dry out and leak.
Hi John, yes the rod caps was an oversight on my part, I normally put a cloth over the crank and put the cap back loosely to cover the studs. this time the rods went to engineering and they torqued the caps to spec to check them. I left them on like that not thinking about the fact that they are torqued and ended up having to remove them at the bottom. if my ring squeezer was not garbage I would have removed the pistons again and removed or loosened the caps before installing them again. and yeah.... you are also just about 100% spot on with the water pump. thanks for your advice!
Honestly I reused a factory Yamata water pump that was off of a wrecked 1997 D16Y8 with 8k miles that had sat in someone's garage since the late 90s. Installed it a Civic a couple years ago and it kept going. I've noticed the seals are more likely to fail from drying out if someone has used green conventional antifreeze rather than stock Honda or something like asian blue zerex that keeps corrosion and reactions to a minimum. If in doubt I guess you could always soak it in a water bucket before attempting to spin it.
Yeah first time I saw this too
ARP makes head stud kits for mini-me builds exactly like this this EXACTLY the right length head bolts all around 👍
Thanks for the info! very helpful. I will definitely look into it.
They make block studs as well.
Get a d15b3 head bolt it's longer also the d15z4 had 2 bolts either shorter or longer
Honda's D series (up to the D16 because the D17 sucks) are pretty good engines for a small turbo build! Easy to make 300 at the crank if you know what you're doing. This build was really fun to watch!
Glad you enjoyed it! yeah I have not messed with any of the D17 motors myself, older motors have more support.
Reuse a 20yr old water pump on your turbo build. Sound advice right there 👌. Wtf man....you were doing so well
Well, look on the bright side, now you get a video of me changing out the water pump because it failed immediately. 😅🥲
Bruh this whole time i thought i was watching a video on building the engine to push like 500whp, cant believe after the end I just realized its an oem build just a mini me lmao
Hi, yeah this is a budget build, so more like 200hp. I want to test the capabilities of the stock D-series motor. the next build will make 300whp, still Dseries, but with a few mods and aftermarket parts.
@@RisingBoostYT yea I just thought you were building it, still cool tutorial tho nonetheless
I build a mini me d15b2 and p08-3 head junkyards parts but no VTEC crap or turbo neither.I bored the head mild and i home made the obdo distributor by cutting and edge and i put a Weber carb with a 272 Delta cam regrind and lighter flywheel and gd clutch kit and others old school knowledge and my crx is peppy like hell responds like a beast old school style like a ford muscle car with 2 in exhaust system
nice setup, simple and oldschool, probably also very reliable running it on the carb.
Don’t use metal to pry and move parts . Do not install pistons like that . Fuel line on stud open cap . Good effort fir sure and good video . Positive comment 👍
Hi Hereinmissoula, thanks for the good advice, my first mistake was not removing the rod caps before installing the pistons. I did not expect them to be torqued to spec (done by engineering). I should have removed and reinstalled the pistons but my ring compressor tool was also garbage so I did not want to do that. I tried removing the caps with a hammer handle that was rubber but it didn't work, so I used the metal bar knowing I should not do it.
I recommend using wood or plastic to pry off parts next time
Hi Jason, yes I did start with a rubber handle of the hammer, but that did not work to well, to be honest I should have taken the rod caps off before installing the pistons, that would have made it much easier and less risky.
@@RisingBoostYT yes dear. you should take rod caps off before installing the pistons. i was wondering WTH are u doin haha and yes. next time use some soft materials to pull parts apart. love your videos btw. cheer from slovenia
So crazy thing. i went to get a fully built black right came to find out whoever it was i got it from has done it your way bro same everything just professionally
Hi Bro, sorry to hear that. it is always a risk buying a motor, it's not possible to confirm if it is "build" without pulling off the oil pan. the easiest way to check is to take off the oil cap and look at the 1 visible head stud (SOHC motors only), if it is a ARP stud, then maybe, but if it is a stock head bolt then its 99.9% probably not built. it's always best to tell the seller to remove the valve cover and oil pan so you can inspect if it is built or just for damage like a burnt rod bearing cap.
@@RisingBoostYT yeah the guy told me too tho bro so i already knew lol but it’s the same exact build your doing in the video which is pretty dope
@@RisingBoostYT Atleast everything else was done oil pump, water pump, mid compression pistons everything was professionally done and bored.
Well done. I’m ready for part 3 :)
Hi Watts, part 3 coming real soon 🚀, thanks for the support!
Ok, so I never touch the bearings with my finger because the oil in my skin can damage the surface. When I install main bearings I measure bearing crush just to make sure there is some. It's not as often as it was 30 years ago but some bearings have come out of the box slightly short and when torqued there was no crush. Bearing crush is what secures it in the bore. Also I put tight fitting hose over the rod stud so the cap is off when I install it and it goes over the journal right away. The hoses guide the rod over the journal with no risk of damage to the crank. You are going to use head bolts with boost. I'm not a Honda expert but don't d 16 head have a habit of lifting under boost with bolts?
Hi 3dw3dw, thanks for the helpful tips. on this build I 100% relied on the sizes on the box as I did not measure any clearances apart from ring gaps, also yes the Dseries motors are prone to lifting the head and blowing the head gasket. over boost, detonation or aggressive timing and its likely to lift. but they say stock the motor can do 220whp. so I will test that. currently running 6psi on conservative timing and no issues so far. I estimate 150hp. (before- 7psi was 163hp)
Didn't even use plastic gauge and Check to see for clearance 🙄
Hi Bro, yes I definitely took some shortcuts building this motor, I did not check clearances, also did not get the honda color coded bearings. I checked the bearings that came out and got the same as replacements using the logic that if it was working before it will work again, I have not uploaded the video yet, however I can confirm the motor runs just fine, so for me the risk paid off.
Круто 🔥👍
good day sir..i just wanna ask about torque specs, i mean how many foot pounds of torque to tighten the bolts in the rocker arm cam cap that holds the camshaft..i think there are ten 12mm bolts and four 10mm bolts in both ends..thank you so mch sir..and more power..
Hi Virgina, I use this website, they have everything listed - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
@@RisingBoostYT thank you so mch sir for your time to reply..its a big help for me.thank you again sir..more power to you
Cara eu com um trabalho desse eu tinha colocado umas bielas forjadas
É verdade que eu não tinha dinheiro para isso na época, considerando os custos de envio para a África do Sul, mas talvez em breve
cant u install pistons and the flip the block and install the crank once the pistons are in?
Hi Christian, yes you can, it is safer to do it that way. in my case I wanted to test the "piston to valve clearance" so I installed 1 piston and the crank to test. I did not show it in the video but that is why the crank was installed first.
@@RisingBoostYT ahhhh i get you, thanks for clarifying!
I have never seen someone install a piston and rod with the rod cap still on? And then take it off after its in, then re install it? Please explain this to me
it was an oversight, the engineering bolted on the rod caps, and I did not think about how difficult it is to remove once installed. definitely won't recommend it.
How come you didn't upgrade the rods? they look very thin compared to after market H-Beam. looks like asking for trouble under boost.
Hi James, basically it came down to price, the rods/pistons set costs about $570, that is not bad, however I have to ship it to my country, so that adds $250 in shipping and probably $100 in fees and taxes, that's $920. so for me, the cost is almost double. so it does not make sense to really build a D-series. for that money I can rather do a Bswop and get rods for that. they say the stock rods can handle 220hp so we will keep it at that. the Bseries build is next.
@@RisingBoostYT Good call! That is expensive. I have been looking at a cheap Honda engine to build a jet boat. I need around 200-250hp for it to be fast. The Honda R18 and D17 is very cheap in Australia so I am looking at those two at the moment
@@unchartedgroupielove the R-series motors are a bit more economy-based motors, they have an eco version of vtec, not sure if an R-series will be reliable at 200+ hp continuously. D17 is slightly different from the older D15/D16 however there are Performance versions of the D17, I would opt for that, boost it to 220 but take extra care with cooling and an oil cooler because a jetboat will likely make the power for longer durations than a car.
What about the compression ratio now? You reduce it ?
Hi, at first no. the compression was 9.8-1 on this setup, after I added a thick head gasket making it 8.9-1. With the high compression and boost I had head gasket issues, lowering the comp mostly solved the issues.
I must've missed it in part one. Is this engine stock block or did you sleeve it?
All stock internals, opted not to use the block brace in the picture.
I have a question , why did he attach the crankshaft before attaching the pistons and if it was to check the clearing of the rods then wouldn't that be done after attaching the rods to the crank?
Hi Ibrahim, I actually installed 1 piston (without rings) and the crank to check the piston to valve clearance when in vtec. it did not work out as I did not have a cambelt at the time so I did not include it in the video. so yes the install process "video continuity" may not be 100% as I did it.
@@RisingBoostYT Thank you for the the reply and explaination , I really enjoy your content keep producing more of it
Hey quick question. Did u have to check piston to valve clearance?
Hi Randy, yes I did check it. I locked 1 intake valve in vtec and fitted the head loosely without a gasket. There was enough clearance as the valve did not even touch the clay.
Hello from Brazil
Hi bro, thanks watching!
so are we not gonna talk about the missing dowel pins
Hi Bro, definitely had them in, check at about 12 min into the video you can see 1 is installed in the block, the other one is in the head. I should have mentioned them in the video.
So, is getting 177 Hp out of a D16z6 Naturally Aspirated possible without any Turbo etc but changing Pistons, porting, polishing, porting oil pump or putting in race pump cam gear etc, better header, etc. etc.? I would Love to have a Naturally Aspirated engine that' gets 177 hp... anyone know if this is possible with a D Series Sohc? Thanks!
Hi Mike, it is definitely possible and you are on the right track, however it will not be easy or cheap. making 177hp NA power with a D-series will require some serious engineering work, things like CNC porting, oversize valves, super high compression pistons, race fuel, cam, rev kit, ITB's, decent engine management. To be honest, I would recommend doing a Kswop for NA power. 177hp would be a breeze on a k-series. and depending on your location it may even be cheaper.
@@RisingBoostYT OKay, Thanks a lot!! Peace!!
@@RisingBoostYT Well maybe I'll stick with the basics... I figure I can put a slightly better Piston Head with Rings to gain 10 hp, Get a skunk Manifold, port and polish everything, Better Header. port the oil pump or buy a Racing pump. Not sure if a better oil pump helps with HP but I am sure it's better for the engine long term etc. Would Love to put on new or better bearings... Maybe that would be about 140+. Is there anything else that I could do that is basic to increase HP that is N/A? Will doing a tune/working with the computer do anything to improve HP? Thanks for any tips!
Hi Mike, basics will help you gain HP, polish exhaust ports, get a good header + exhaust system, skunk intake manufold and you can also polish its runners. Get a bigger throttle body from B16 or aftermarket. The D16Z6 is basically one of the best older Dseries motors. Oil pump won't add hp but will help with longevity and reliability. If you rebuild the motor and add some higher comp pistons. A tuneable ECU will be a big help. Make sure you have a PO8 cylinder head, they say it's the best SOHC vtec head. (D16z6 comes with a PO8 sohc vtec) all the small changes will add up HP
@@RisingBoostYT Cool, thanks!!!
Why did you not upgrade the rods on the pistons?
Hi, honest answer is price, even though its not expensive in the USA, once shipping, taxes, duties and the exchange rate are added, keeping in mind on average the salaries is 5x lower in my country, it's just not worth it.
@@RisingBoostYT I get it. Government sucks. HAHAHA Love the channel, keep it coming. I am doing something like this to my D15b7 in my 93 Del Sol.
I got d15z6 and head bolts aren't same long
Hi Jakub, yes the D16A motors have longer head studs, 16.5mm and the D16Z/Y motors use a shorter 14.5mm stud. If you combine a A block and Z/Y head you may need 9 16.5mm studs and 1 custom long stud. I used 1 from a EG D16A6 to make my setup work
Ring gap? I hope you increased the gaps....
Yes, did the ring gaps in part 1
5:23 and 7:02 How much power (Nm )do these screws need to tighten? Do you have a manual pdf to send me by email?Thanks.
Hi MrGeo. I use this website, - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
they give the specs between the different D-series motors.
@@RisingBoostYT Thank you
Y dose no one use the d17i turboed my d17 I haven't ran it yet but everything is stock other then block guard and are studs and some 550cc injectors and high flow fuel pump. I did put a d16 intake manifold on it. But I'm going buy a halltec standalone ecu for the car instead of hondata just in case I blow up my motor I'll drop the ecu and turbo setup in my e36.
Hi, sounds like a fun setup, I have seen a few but it is probably coz it has a bit less support and parts available, I know the D17 internals and valve train is fairly similar to the D16, just the block and head cast are different so they can't mix match with older D16 motors like the D15/D16 can. Also manifold bolt patterns are different but can be made to fit.
Hey I know you get a lot of questions here but did you just retro fit a vtec head on a no vtec block
Hi Destin, Yes. you may need a few things but most Dseries blocks and heads can be swapped no problem. just not the old A9 DOHC and newer D17s.
@@RisingBoostYT any idea on specific engine number heads ? and what are the mortifications you ran into if you don’t mind me asking? Thanks for the reply btw
why didnt you check your oil clearance. ?
Hi Abubakr, I did try to buy Plastiguage to check it, however it looks like it is not easy to find it in my country. so I checked it by installing a piston without rings, torquing everything to spec and making sure everything spins freely. it's obviously not perfect but if something is crazy out of spec it will show. it was running before and STD size bearings came out so I just put new STD size bearings back in.
@@RisingBoostYT Lol I'm from cape town I have some could of given it to you
thanks bro, Where did you buy it from? i'm from Gauteng, when I asked the guys at the part shop about it I could see they have no idea what i'm talking about.
Noob question, but why are the builds called "mini me's"?
Hi bro, to be honest I think its named after mini-me from the Austin powers movie, like the B20 vtec is called Frankenstein, because you putting a different "head" on a block/body,, not 100% sure but these names started popping up in the early 2000s, not sure what the enthusiasts was smoking back then but the names stuck.
a mini me build is a non vtec block with a vtec head they call it mini me because its like a mini b series
What are the torque specs on the crank bolts ??
Hi Samuel, There are different specs for the different motors. Use this website www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
Its normal after.fresh rebuit have scratch on exaust side cylinder whall?? On all 4 cilinders....
Hi Fernando, the marks in the sleeves is from me doing the ring gaps, taking the rings out and putting them back into the sleeves several times to test fit, that caused the marks, luckily it's only marks and not really scratches. after honing the cylinders they get a rough surface so the new piston rings and sleeves can "seat" during the initial break-in. the marks will be removed during that. if it was scratches it would definitely not be normal.
@@RisingBoostYT it is in my case... my engine was rebuilt... and on the sleeves on the exaust side has some vertical scratches.... my ring gaps is in spec.... its normal to have scratches after a fresh rebuilt??
It depends on how deep the scratches are, normally a fresh build will have the horizontal scratches (45 degrees cross hatching) however fitting the new pistons will make marks on the new sleeves that could look like vertical scratches, it its not deep you should be fine, if the scratches are deep it could cause the engine to burn oil and breath more than normal.
@@RisingBoostYT humm...only in one cylinder can barely feel.with fingernail... new pistons and rings and oversize bore... should i remove postons to inspect the rings? On just run it ?? 😀
Hi would recommend removing it and checking the rings, possible that a oil ring may have gotten damage during the install process.
Where is the block guard
Hi Znul, I removed it as the one I purchased (cheap), I am not convinced that it will actually help at all. secondly I am using stock rods and head studs so if the engine was to fail, it will fail on the rods and studs long before the sleeves.
because of this I decided not to use it, I may make a review video about the cheap block guard.
@@RisingBoostYT ah i see great build sir
Piston stock d16a ?
Hi, pistons are spare shop replacement D16A9 pistons, cheap $50 OEM style.
Rod stock d16a
I say this out of good faith. Get that China block guard out of there asap. All they do is distort the cylinder walls. For $350 send you block to CSS
Hi Jim, thanks for the advice, I did remove it before fitting the head, it was obstructing coolant ports and did not even touch the outside of the block, in my opinion it would not have done anything positive. For now I'm running stock internals so the rods should fail long before sleeves.
@@RisingBoostYT good man. Save up the funds as I did (took forever lol) and send your next big build to Jeff @CNC Werx. Finish up with a vitara piston and rod build and you'll be on your way to 500HP 💛💯👍
Hi Jim, thanks for the advice, it won't be an option, i'm from South Africa, we do have similar options around here, but the market is smaller so the price is higher, I do see Darton sleeve blocks come up on occasion but not cheap,, the next motor build is a LS B18 Vtec. after that i'll start looking at a proper build that can hold some real power.
Can someone direct me to these same parts that can withstand 300-400 HP on eBay?
Hi Junkis, Try Speed Factory. www.speedfactoryracing.net/products/ycp-pistons-pins-and-rings-with-eagle-rods-d16?_pos=3&_sid=031f9186c&_ss=r
here is an ebay link, the links are for D16 only - ebay.us/JrWQtQ
Thank you
And also block (cylinders) _ (block engine)
May i know the number of teeth of the timing belt
Hi Wong, apologies for not responding, it is a 103x240 H Dyco 94618 belt
keep it up
Thanks for the support Owen!
This is NOT the way to build an engine 😢
Hi, i'm definitely not an expert engine builder, but the motor is still running, boosted and making almost double factory HP with no issues 2 years later.